It totally baffles me how you are able to make videos that are so simple about common things like oil pumps that nobody else talks or writes about. Easily my most valued subscription.
I’ve looked and always wondered how an oil pump works and what makes one high volume. Thank you for the information. Most deff appreciate you taking the time to put out good information.
A High volume oil pump puts out more volume than a standard oil pump. For example a small block Chevy HV pump will pump about 25% more oil than a standard Volume. If the engine can't take the excess volume it just bleeds off the excess in a bypass. Also take a bit more HP to turn them, as the gears are taller which is how they pump more volume.
You should see how a dual stage pump works. Most engines made in the last 5 years can change volume and pressure when commanded to by the PCM. 7-10 psi at idle and 70-100 at redline. Great for fuel economy as a fluid pump creates alot of parasitic drag on an engine. Which is why pretty much all new cars use electric steering racks and variable oil pumps.
In my case, the stuck bypass valve in the oil pump, caused massive spike in oil pressure, so it searched for the next weak link - namely the oil filter gasket. At first I tought it was a faulty oil filter, but after third one, I figured that something is wrong. After I took the pump apart, the clearences were spot on, just the valve would not budge.
In one of my builds I had installed 4 high vol/pressure pumps. In each case I had good pressure for about 2 minutes then pressure fell off. At that point I was thinking I had internal engine issues. Pulled the engine built another and inspected the old engine to find no issues. Turns out stuck bypass now I just assume the pump has to be serviced before installing.
You forgot to mention why you should and shouldn't run a hi volume pump in certain applications. For an example I build a lot of LS turbo motors and if you just bolt a hi volume hi pressure pump on a motor in think you can rev 7,000 rpms for long periods of time it will run the pan dry. Hi volume high pressure pumps in my opinion are for added bearing clearance because you're creating a bigger leak. Most engine builders I know like 2.5-3 in something that's going live at 1,200 horsepower+ on race track but if you're going to Street drive it around mite not want to go that much maybe like 2. My one engine builder builds big block Chevy 1,200hp blower car stuff and runs 1.5 on mains and 2 on the rods with a good h bearing's. Some how he has good luck with that Seems a little tight to me but he's been building for 45 years.
The oil film takes up 002 thousands so you gotta loosen em up to get oil around the rod and main journals the first Crank I ever had balanced was on a small journal Corvette 327 and the engine builder called me and said hey it's going to be another 50 bucks I gotta polish the hell out of this crank you don't have enough room for oil when I got it back home it looked like chrome and 8000 thousand RPM was 200 below redline stock melling oil pump Corvette pan and factory windage tray Old school a I loved those little engines but eventually they had to be retired for bigger cubic inches or stay on the porch 👍👍
There are some early (60s Buicks for one) engines that do require the oil pump to be packed to avoid a dry start after a rebuild. They will hold prime after that though.
same with AMC v8's. Those are external pumps, and they are not gerotor (sp?) pumps. I know from experience that AMC pumps are just 2 gears. I was told to use vaseline in them
I feel obligated to make a comment about this for the Oldsmobile guys. If you are building the latr Olds big blocks, 425/455, please keep in mind they were designed to run at what is considered a low RPM now days. People will say Olds have oiling issues. What actually happens in the drainback is too slow. Many times, people will do tings to allow these engines to spin faster. The average engine builder will also recommend a higher volume pump, which they do for everything really. Unfortunately, with the way the Olds oil passages are, it is possible the combination of a higher RPM and a higher volume pump will pump the pan empty and the oil will all be up in the valvetrain trying to make it's way back to the pan. This isn;t super common, but I have heard about this happening to people, where their barnd new rebuilt HiPo 455 had an oiling issue and had a break down. When they look into it, they can;t find anything wrong with the pan, pick up, or oil pump. I am pretty sure Dr. Olds himself has some videos on youtube about it, he devised some modifications to help with the oiling design of the Olds BB. Long story short: Olds guys, do your homework before deciding on a combo for your BB! Sometimes the high volume pump is worse!
Wierd that I’m making an oil pump for my model engine and this pops up. I’m glad that I watched this because I never thought about a much-needed bypass. Thanks Tony you are the man.
I like these tech videos Tony. Well done. I understand the need for a high volume pump on an engine with looser clearances, like a race engine. Can you explain the advantage of a high pressure pump? The down side would be a little bit of additional power losses, but what is the up side? Thanks.
The only advantage of a high pressure oil pump is in an engine with an extremely bad oiling system design. The downsides can be from priority, bearing surface area and speeds, etc. Very few engines need a high volume pump, far less need a high pressure pump. On the majority of engines neither high volume or high pressure are needed, they are simply band aids for something else that needs addressed. There are racing applications that use high pressure pumps but they also use dry sump systems. Adding volume and or pressure is usually not the best idea for many reasons, rockers starve for oil because the oil sprayed over them, drain back and pooling issues, not pulling heat away, rupturing the oil filter (that will quickly destroying the engine...), etc. The proof, is that neither design is used in most stock engines, even high output ones making crazy power. There are a few acceptations to that rule and when you look how the oiling system is laid out you can see why they band aided it with a pump design.... Controlling the oil is far more important than volume or high pressure. Both of those pump upgrades make controlling the oil much harder. Simply installing an upgrade pump does nothing to address any of the issues they introduce. What most people wont actually tell you is that a stock pump will do fine as long as you don't starve it for oil. I have used stock pumps in deep pans with accusump's for years and not had oiling issues, even at crazy power levels.
@@Crazy8ts demonstrate for us how over a gallon of oil can be suspended against gravity. The only way pressure will drop is if the proper level is low and the return passages are all but clogged. I have a hv pump in my 440 and never "starved" for oil from 800-5000 rpm.
@@scatpack68 In theory you would think that oil would be pulled by gravity back into the pan, but sadly it is not always the case. Put a stud girdle on the mains in your 440, and suddenly you will have massive oil control issues with a high pressure pump at the rpms you are running. Go to 8k, and the HV over about 60 psi, it will start to show issues with .0035 mains. Why? The windage... There is far more to it than gravity...
You missed the basics of hydraulics . Pumps dont create pressure, they move fluid. The restrictions in the system create pressure. The “bypass” is a relief valve. It doesn’t always pop when you hit max rpm.
As one of the newbies, I LOVE this type of video. Good to see you throwing one in now and then like you did in your early days. Oh, and bring back the stunt carb!!!
One of the most misunderstood things about any pump is that they create pressure. They do not. Pumps create flow. Pressure is a measurement of resistance to that flow.that why the spring changes the pressure, and the larger pump volume changes the flow.
A stiffer relief valve spring will only increase the maximum pressure. It won't increase your oil pressure at, for example, hot idle if you are only getting 10 PSI and the relief valve doesn't even open until 60+ PSI. To increase oil pressure at below the pressure the relief valve is set for, you either need to increase the restriction with tighter clearances, thicker oil, less leakage, etc or you need more flow from the pump.
An AMC V8 has to be packed with such a grease or petroleum jelly. If you do not, it will not pick up the oil out of the pan. I agree with everything else, and agree that the normal Mopar, Ford , Chevy do not need this. Buick and AMC does.
Shimming a spring do not increase its max value,but only its preload value,you will still have the same max oil pressure. Cutting a spring shorter and shimming it back to its original size does increase max pressure.
@@ericlandstrom6155 linear coil springs like here, collapse according to a linear effort , like 30 pounds for 1 inch, 60 pounds for 2 inches etc.... A shim will only start the compression,but do not change the amount of force it will take to collapse the spring,it will just delay it until its max resistance to effort is overcame. If you want to increase a spring force,you increase its coil diameter or shorten and shim it to keeping its stock length and coil diameter. Just look at leaf springs,the shorter they are,the less flexible they are.
@@michaelovitch You're correct in a general sense, however the pressure relief valve doesn't need to completely compress the spring in order to do its job. What determines the maximum oil pressure is the force required to push the valve past the pressure relief opening, and shimming the spring will increase the required force.
Actually the Rover V8 was known as an engine that needed the pump packed or it doomsday, it would never prime. Even an oil change, swap the filter first then drop the oil. The problem could even occur if the vehicle had been sitting a longtime. I had in the past used a pressure sprayer hooked up to oil pressure fitting to prime them. Sure someone will mention other Buicks that were similar. Incidentally never seen issues with the Vasaline, but like I mentioned, you can use a pressure sprayer.
Hi Uncle Tony. Good job. I learned a lot. The next oil system video vould be about the downstream component, the oil filter. Check valve diaphram, silicone or rubber. What engines have bypass valves in the filter or not. Filter media and pleat count, etc. Good quality filters vs. Cheap ones, etc. Thanks.
Pumps...A friend brought his 'new' car round to show off.. After looking around I pulled a piece of Black tape off the dash to show a red light,sea mal is that bad?🙄 I says you might get home... 😢😢
You talked about the high pressure created from adding grease to the pump, and the strain on the pumps driveshaft. Nobody talks about strain on the driveshaft caused by oil thickeners. Nobody talks about the strain on the drive shaft caused by high volume and or high pressure fuel pumps. Nobody talks about using thick oil and revving the engine while it's cold........ I've always been concerned about a stock oil pump and drive shaft and weather thicker engine oil or oil additives or even cold engines with thick oil can break an oil pump drive shaft.
Yeah the oil pump shaft on a SBF is the Achilles heel of it in my opinion... I put an aftermarket shaft in them even if it is a stock type build! Good video..
I had one pump that wouldn’t prime. I took off the oil filter and used a shop Vac to suck some oil through the pump which then allow the pump to prime.
Ahahahahah, yeah Tony, I can tell you, some 30 yrs ago, I had my friend, my Mechanic in Mexico. I brought to him all of the parts to "rebuild" my 1953 Chevy, 216 cu in inline 6 cyl parts, but I didn't buy an OIL PUMP. My mechanic tells me, hey Marcelo you didn't bring me an oil pump? I told him, "oh , it doesn't need it, the oil presure was FINE". He told me,........... "look, if I'm going to be going into this engine so deeply, you need to bring me a NEW OIL PUMP, doesn't matter if you say it didn't need it, I'm going to put in a NEW oil pump. Otherwise, all of the other parts are going to be NEW and the oil pump will be old, and it's the WEAK LINK, and it'll break , right away! You go get me/bring to me a NEW OIL PUMP! I said , yes sir. I learned something very valuable, right there~!
My 96 Buick Roadmaster sedan has the 2nd gen LT1 with 160k miles. I had to pull the engine to replace the rear main seal cause I was losing literally a quart of oil a day. Since I had to pull the pan to change the seal and gasket, I put a new oil pump in it. I went with a high volume pump. I don't know if it was a good idea or not. I don't have an oil pressure gauge. I don't know how much pressure it had before or after. It hasn't caused any problems that I'm aware of. But I wish I had just left it alone. I had plans to do a bunch of modifications to get more power. But my budget never allowed it. The LT1 is expensive to build. It's a great engine, but it wasn't made long enough for aftermarket companies to make a bunch of cheap parts for it. I could build 2 1st gen small block Chevys for the price of building 1 LT1. Even the LS based engines are cheaper to build. For a guy like me who has no budget, that's a problem
Everybody needs to watch this video! thank you for clearing up the confusion between the standard volume, high volume, and high pressure pumps! there's an age old confusion associated with em. Great video as always!
@@karlsracing8422 sorry for the late reply. I was thinking of doing this modification for a hot street car 383 being set up to run light to light.ua-cam.com/video/vfOGIdHU-qc/v-deo.html
Hey Tony you said you cleaned the strainer with Deep Purple. Im just curious what led you to clean strainers with a 70s British rock music band? I am going to try this out but how do I properly use Deep purple to clean with? Do i just play any song at the strainer? Is there a particular song that works better? How far should my speakers be, or should i use headphones? I was planning on playing smoke on the water at my strainer but was unsure as child in time seems like it could be a better fit. Thanks for what you do and have a nice day!
Melling is the only brand of oil pump i use in engine rebuilds and never had an issue.I do mostly fords and the drive shafts are so flimsy,always replace them with a Melling or ARP shaft even if its a stock rebuild.If any of you reading this have Fords the shaft will twist off with the engine still running with no oil pressure (If the pump locks up) If you use a hardened shaft it will shear off the pin in the distributor and the engine will shut off saving it.
The Ford's have a shaft like a 5/16 Allen wrench if I remember right the last one I built was in a old square bronco 302 2barrel bore job new Pistons cam lifters and valve job went back stock they run that thing in the mud till the sides fell off the body 👍
Had this exact thing happen to me with my 92 mustang. oil pump was binding, not totally seized. It still spun the gear on the distributor shaft. Somehow it didn't spin it totally off. Not knowing what had happened I managed to limp the car home a mile with timing retarded 40 degrees ATDC. The engine is now out of the car for a refresh.
@@wickedlou9 That's amazing it ran in that state,the OE 5.0 engines use an aluminum oil pump housing while the Melling replacement is cast iron and beefy.Part number M-68 is a standard volume pump for any small block ford. ARP 154-7904 is the drive shaft.
I built my first car engine when I was 12-13, years old, that was such longer ago than I want to think, before that it was a couple. Small engines, and a good bit of tinkering, with alot of stuff, it was a few years before OBD-2 , I used to use a high volume pump, but figured, unless you have looser than stock clearances, higher volume is just eating more power!
With the quality of parts today you should always disassemble a new pump and inspect it, you will find chips of metal and all sorts of garbage. Also the sign of a stuck closed relief valve is an exploding oil filter. I have always wanted a side by side comparison of the gear style and gerator style pumps, longevity, amount of power needed to run them and a performance comparison.
Love your videos UT. Back to HVAC tech. The oil that comes into the pump is pushed Into the pump by atmospheric pressure. If you think about a very cold day up at 10,000 elevation. That oil is really struggling to get into the pump.
I've seen a few small block ford pump drive shafts twisted off like it was made of plastic. Especially the 289 and some early 302 engines. Well worth installing a hardened aftermarket pump shaft on those engines. Chevy engines ,the pump and shaft are almost Bullitt proof. Big and small block Chryslers seem to be a little more prone to internal wear but well designed with little or no worries. I wouldn't recommend using a high pressure high volume pump on a rebuilt street engine. You lose power and gain nothing in reducing wear or reliability for the loss in power. 20% more pressure= 20% more power to drive the pump and at 5000 rpm that could be a 10 hp loss or more over the stock pump.
One thing you didn't mention is the size of the pickup tube. When I had my engine rebuilt the mechanic replaced the 1/2" tube with a 5/8", he told me that it would give a higher oil volume. When I start my hotrod the oil pressure gauge is buried and after it warmed up it is running a high pressure. Should this be a concern?
Changed out a pump pickup screen on a mustang once, it was clogged up with pieces of rubber. Turned out those pieces of rubber were pieces of oil pan gasket material. Crappy Ford design gaskets actually got smashed between the pan and block on the inside, over time those pieces got hard and brittle and flaked off, then the pump picked those pieces up and got lodged in the screen... real recipe for a disaster. Luckily this engine survived, a new pickup screen and a good pan cleaning solved the low pressure issue, and the pump itself was unscathed.
AAAhhhhhhhhhh SO a ''high volume'' pump IS ALSO relatively higher pressure - according to the laws of physics.... so you do get both attributes with a high volume pump......... BUT its not a higher MAX PRESSURE pump - which is what ''high pressure'' refers to when talking high volume/high pressure pumps........ I've been recently confused about this - cheers Uncle Tony - bloody spot on video...!!! PS On the packaging - they really should just say - 1. high volume pump (and leave it at that); OR 2. high volume / high max pressure pump....... and then state what the max pressure is.....
My 65 had a High Volume Pump. Clod start 84psi warm idle 43psi. That was fine, what I didn't like was at 3000RPM I was at 70psi and at 5500 I was over 100psi. Changed to a Standard Volume. Now at cold start 64psi and warm 38psi. But I never see more then 70 psi.
I have a brand new Triumph scramble 1200 motorcycle. It runs great . Took it in for a 600 mile service which included oil and filter change and it still runs great . Took it in for second service at 1806 miles now the engine is knocking . Service includes ECU update if available, oil & filter change. WHY DO THESE MOTORCYCLE ENGINS KNOCK ? The day I picked it up after the second service I noticed it knocking immediately of course but it’s still knocking. Come to find out, all these engines knock after the first service. Mine started after the second service. Mine also started knocking 35 seconds after starting then it would smooth out, but never go away completely. Now it immediately knocks after starting the engine. We are racking our brains trying to figure this out. Please help ….
Very informative video on simple yet so important basics! I'll be removing the oil pump on my Ford V6 and now know exactly what to expect and inspect! Thank you!
This was really helpful, could the oil pump cause you to have to much oil pressure? My oil pressure is around 80 and its a 74 Ford F250 with the 360 big block.
About 20 years ago my neighbor/friend had a HV pump in his 350 Corvette. It pumped too much oil to the top end of the engine and caused cavitation. It seriously damaged the bottom end. I used 7qt pan & a HV pump in my Camaro. I never had any problems with mine doing that. He had a standard capacity pan. I can't remember what brand of pump I used. I believe it was a melling with a Summit pickup welded on. I took it apart before I installed it and it had white grease inside it.
Most mechanics I know of prime the oil pump before they put the distributor in to make sure the engine is lubed before startup. It also lets you know what the pressure is.
yup, I've had my knuckles smashed against the firewall more than once priming an engine. You have to be ready for when the pump starts building pressure or it can twist a powerful drill out of your hands
I had an oil pump seize up in a ford 400 v8 once. Old, maybe original, timing gears had vinyl coated teeth. The vinyl started falling off, and the oil pump managed to suck up a small piece of it. Squished the vinyl flat before seizing up. The 3/8" allen/hex driveshaft twisted around partially, but didn't break. The teeth on the camshaft & distributor gears got chewed up in the process, also shearing the pin holding the distributor gear in place on its shaft. I was already planning an engine swap, and didn't want to invest a bunch of money into fixing the 400 properly. So I cleaned up the oil pump, swapped in a spare distributor gear, new timing gears & chain, set the timing, cleaned the oil pan and changed the oil & filter, and hoped for the best. It's been running fine ever since! Better actually, without the timing slop. It's still gonna come out though.
On the Pentastar engine a chain-driven, vane-type variable displacement oil pump adjusts the flow rate and pressure as commanded by the engine management system, which uses a solenoid to drive the pump into low or high pressure mode. For example, below 3,500 rpm, the pump conserves energy by using low pressure; at speeds over 3,500 rpm, the pump switches to high pressure. A force balance mechanism inside the oil pump adjusts the size of the pumping chambers to alter oil flow.
Excellent video. My 280zx has low oil pressure at idle and when the oil gets hot, the electric fuel pump turns off to protect the engine. Before I try a high pressure pump, I think I will try a high pressure spring. Great info!
I’ve saw lots of people on forums saying a high volume pump on a stock oil pan for a SBC is a bad idea because it will suck the pan dry what’s your opinion on this?
I can't say I have ever had much of a problem with the oil pumps on my engines (mostly all small block Mopar). I did have a high mileage 360 in a Powerwagon that would drop down to about 10-15 lbs at idle, and then about 40-50 at driving speed, but otherwise most of the small block Mopars I have had run about 25 lbs at idle and 60-70 lbs at driving speed.
Before I put a new oil pump in my Comanche 4.0 I put a little bit of oil in the pressure side; backed the shaft off a little, put more in and bolted it up to the block. (Damn, those pickup tubes are a bitch to R&R!) Been working fine ever since. AMOF at roughly 215,000 miles it has better oil pressure, than the 208,000+mile 4.0 in my Grand Cherokee! It's gettin' a new one before long, too :-).
Hey Uncle tony, you are awesome! I have a question that's off the beaten path but I have a 350 Chevy that has been rebuilt, I have no idea who has done it but I have taken the pan off and yes there are brand new Pistons new bearings you cam new lifters, the problem I have is I checked bearing clearances rods and mains with plastic gauge and it is 1.5 thousands what seems a little tight to me even though Chevy says it's within Speck would you run this? Or do something to increase clearance?
The noise in the back is not a problem, your first 5 or All the videos have more noise & dogos eating your food 😂,am joke, you have amazing videos with a lot of knowledge, am like it ,am still looking your videos since you started, 10 years ago they are all good’s even with noises thanks for what you teaching
So i just recently bought a chevy express van which when cold start up the oil pressure is at 60psi. As the engine warms it goes down to 35-40psi but if i rev the engine it will make out up to 60-80psi. Should i replace my oil pump?
Took a long time to find your excellent video on the oiul pump. Our Toyota has been -pampered throuout it's 112k life but there is zero oil pressure pressure. My wife will not let me tackle it = she says I'm too old at 82. I am told you are unlucky... Toyota 2002 land cruiser = 3 L - D4D 1KD-FVT engine. Toyota says parts can fail ! Two decxent mecanics both have not 'done one'....... The last episode I had to sort out the injectors that the so called experts repaced 1 injector instead of 2 & yet the parts /specialists showed me the report that told the diesel repairers there were two injetcors that neede replacing. It was embarrasing getting the £500 labour costs back in my pocket....... Interestingly they had not cleaned one bit of carbon off the lobes on the cams. There was hardly any clearance on any of the tappets. It was donkey's years since I had done an engine rebuild with my pal, a first class motor engineer who taught me in a very strict manner...........he would say = never use an adjustible spanner on a motor! EVER. He siad mick you won't get paid helping us but you've had a hell of an appreticshire * wilk never need to take your 'cars' to a garage....... Then came the ECU.
Just finished a 355 sbc. top to bottom. My son thought he bought a Melling pump from jegs but jegs sent there own. Can`t get much more then 10 psi at 1500 rpm then idle at 5. Guessing the spring is hung up. This has a stock pan . Can use a 1055 Melling or will it run dry? What pump do you rec? Thanks in advanced. Love the channel
Cool and interesting video! I really like watching your channel because I always learn something. On worn pumps or for high performance applications, there is a company called Line to Line Coatings that have an abradable powder coat they use mainly for piston skirts, but they also do anything that rotates and has clearances like oil pumps. Pretty cool stuff!
Thanx Uncle Tony for another basic lesson. :) Actually after 25 years working maintenance in a chemical factory I consider myself an expert on pumps. Scoring definitely has a huge effect on pump efficiency.
Great video! I have a 2000 Jeep Cherokee, 282000+ miles. Well, it was that time to replace the rear oil seal, might as well replace the oil pump too. It's a Melling high volume pump. Talk about a night and day difference on the pressure.
Awesome vid---i have a 1998 318 that would lose and regain oil pressure, when i disassembled engine found oil pump pick up screen half plugged , do you think this could cause oil presssure loss? what parts would you replace? Thxs
Great video with an excellent instructor. Been in the aviation maintenance business for years, so i well know to have an effective session of instruction you have to have a guy like this. The problem today is these kids don't understand the systems. Please do more videos like this as i too am learning.
GM small block oil pumps (which a vast number of viewers are probably dealing with) are gear pumps, rather than gyrotor, but same general concerns would apply.
There is a kit available for an M72s that replaces the spring, cap, and cotter pin. I use one with a normal volume M72 in my daily 5.2 magnum. I can't vouch for it completely but the dummy gauge in my jeep goes to "50" on the highway at 1800 rpm. Its a shame they don't put a real gauge in; I'll probably be fixing that soon.
Internal pumps with no gasket. Always check the mateing surfaces are true and flat. Dont over tourque. Check bolt / stud clearance to the body of the pump. Simple.
This bit with the HV pump.. Every moderate street build I've personally seen where a HV pump was used, eventually was autopsied to see all the main bearings gone copper. 🤔 Hmm. Then virgin high mile junkyard jobs standard volume pumps come apart with the bearings still like new. Double Hmm 🤔🤔
What’s your thoughts a stronger shaft for high volume/ pressure pumps, I usually build motor tight clearance and high volume pump, which gives me higher pressure, I always pre lube motor before starting using a drill then turn crank by hand so oil flows through everything before I put valve covers on but that’s just my way
How would I have oil pressure issues at idle , yet engine is running smooth? oil light flickers on and off. 2013 hyundai genesis coupe 2.0t Did an oil change, new filter( all hyundai parts) new oil pressure switch, Please and thank you
I like to put a bit of Lucas in the pump when building the engine, a bit of Lucas and oil, Chevy pumps, with steel pinned drive shaft, the Lucas being so sticky it primes very easily, I always use a new oil pump, and pickup, and when I have the pan off a older engine, I go with a new pump and pick-up! Like you say it's dirty oil and can wear, the 94, 454 I bought. I had checked. The bearings, and new pump, and timing chain, come to learn, it only had about 50k miles on it, but toting a motorhome is no easy life! It sounds great with air gap rpm intake and long tube headers! But it's a truck cam, and probably done by 4k rpm, great video
Great videos, really like the technical ones, but getting back to the basics are helpful, in remembering stuff and even learning a different way. Keep them coming.
Can you address the claim that a high-volume pump will "pump your pan dry"? While I do not believe this is a real issue (especially with a tight motor) I still hear it from reputable sources.
Back in 2003 Dad found a beat up 1994 F150 with a 5.0L for sale. Had to go to the next county over to pick it up, wasn't that far to drive. On the way home he realized the engine had been hurt. Not prior to him buying it, but after he started driving it. The dang oil had sludged up in the pan, and the strainer sucked it up and stopped itself up. Lesson learned. Buy an older vehicle, it might be good to change the oil before you start down the road. When he took the engine apart, it wasn't that bad, if he would have changed it, it would have flowed most every bit of the sludge out as it drained. Just that enough sludge got up in the screen it starved the engine for oil.
Wanna have some fun Tony, Fill a 5 gallon aquarium with water, hook a drill to the shaft. Stick an unlubricated pump in the water and turn on the drill. It will suck up water even dry (head pressure) and send it out the port. . You can show the difference of the high volume pump at the same RPM too
It totally baffles me how you are able to make videos that are so simple about common things like oil pumps that nobody else talks or writes about. Easily my most valued subscription.
I’ve looked and always wondered how an oil pump works and what makes one high volume. Thank you for the information. Most deff appreciate you taking the time to put out good information.
A High volume oil pump puts out more volume than a standard oil pump. For example a small block Chevy HV pump will pump about 25% more oil than a standard Volume. If the engine can't take the excess volume it just bleeds off the excess in a bypass. Also take a bit more HP to turn them, as the gears are taller which is how they pump more volume.
Ok I miss read your post "I always wondered what..." Thought you asked what made one HV.
You should see how a dual stage pump works. Most engines made in the last 5 years can change volume and pressure when commanded to by the PCM. 7-10 psi at idle and 70-100 at redline. Great for fuel economy as a fluid pump creates alot of parasitic drag on an engine. Which is why pretty much all new cars use electric steering racks and variable oil pumps.
So did I
Volume is longer gears, pressure is stronger spring
In my case, the stuck bypass valve in the oil pump, caused massive spike in oil pressure, so it searched for the next weak link - namely the oil filter gasket. At first I tought it was a faulty oil filter, but after third one, I figured that something is wrong. After I took the pump apart, the clearences were spot on, just the valve would not budge.
In one of my builds I had installed 4 high vol/pressure pumps. In each case I had good pressure for about 2 minutes then pressure fell off. At that point I was thinking I had internal engine issues. Pulled the engine built another and inspected the old engine to find no issues. Turns out stuck bypass now I just assume the pump has to be serviced before installing.
This particular circumstance is specifically mentioned in oil filter catalogs (CarQuest at least)
Did your filter blow like a beer can?
@@alanmeyers3957 Nah, it wasn't that bad, but the oil was everywhere in the engine bay. Not to mention the pavement around my car.
You forgot to mention why you should and shouldn't run a hi volume pump in certain applications. For an example I build a lot of LS turbo motors and if you just bolt a hi volume hi pressure pump on a motor in think you can rev 7,000 rpms for long periods of time it will run the pan dry. Hi volume high pressure pumps in my opinion are for added bearing clearance because you're creating a bigger leak. Most engine builders I know like 2.5-3 in something that's going live at 1,200 horsepower+ on race track but if you're going to Street drive it around mite not want to go that much maybe like 2. My one engine builder builds big block Chevy 1,200hp blower car stuff and runs 1.5 on mains and 2 on the rods with a good h bearing's. Some how he has good luck with that Seems a little tight to me but he's been building for 45 years.
The oil film takes up 002 thousands so you gotta loosen em up to get oil around the rod and main journals the first Crank I ever had balanced was on a small journal Corvette 327 and the engine builder called me and said hey it's going to be another 50 bucks I gotta polish the hell out of this crank you don't have enough room for oil when I got it back home it looked like chrome and 8000 thousand RPM was 200 below redline stock melling oil pump Corvette pan and factory windage tray Old school a I loved those little engines but eventually they had to be retired for bigger cubic inches or stay on the porch 👍👍
There are some early (60s Buicks for one) engines that do require the oil pump to be packed to avoid a dry start after a rebuild. They will hold prime after that though.
70's 350 Buick engines need the oil pump primed when new gears have been installed brand new too.
Perhaps dose them with, say, a teaspoon of straight 50 (or higher weight) oil?
same with AMC v8's. Those are external pumps, and they are not gerotor (sp?) pumps. I know from experience that AMC pumps are just 2 gears. I was told to use vaseline in them
@@bigassfordsd Ya, I think that's what the Buicks are, Oldsmobile too. Gear pumps not 'gerotor'.
Yup... been there... had a used pump (on that Buick V-8) would not re-prime with oil! Had to be primed with petroleum jelly. Lesson learned.
I soaked in Deep Purple for a few hours when I was a kid. I was never the same again
I feel obligated to make a comment about this for the Oldsmobile guys.
If you are building the latr Olds big blocks, 425/455, please keep in mind they were designed to run at what is considered a low RPM now days. People will say Olds have oiling issues. What actually happens in the drainback is too slow.
Many times, people will do tings to allow these engines to spin faster. The average engine builder will also recommend a higher volume pump, which they do for everything really. Unfortunately, with the way the Olds oil passages are, it is possible the combination of a higher RPM and a higher volume pump will pump the pan empty and the oil will all be up in the valvetrain trying to make it's way back to the pan.
This isn;t super common, but I have heard about this happening to people, where their barnd new rebuilt HiPo 455 had an oiling issue and had a break down. When they look into it, they can;t find anything wrong with the pan, pick up, or oil pump.
I am pretty sure Dr. Olds himself has some videos on youtube about it, he devised some modifications to help with the oiling design of the Olds BB.
Long story short: Olds guys, do your homework before deciding on a combo for your BB! Sometimes the high volume pump is worse!
YES!!!!
I for one prefer these basic tech vids over the stuff like economy or trivia.
More please!
Yep! and Let the JunkYard Jet Guy's Do their own thing. If Your not building it, we don't care.
Wierd that I’m making an oil pump for my model engine and this pops up.
I’m glad that I watched this because I never thought about a much-needed bypass.
Thanks Tony you are the man.
I like these tech videos Tony. Well done. I understand the need for a high volume pump on an engine with looser clearances, like a race engine. Can you explain the advantage of a high pressure pump? The down side would be a little bit of additional power losses, but what is the up side? Thanks.
The only advantage of a high pressure oil pump is in an engine with an extremely bad oiling system design. The downsides can be from priority, bearing surface area and speeds, etc. Very few engines need a high volume pump, far less need a high pressure pump. On the majority of engines neither high volume or high pressure are needed, they are simply band aids for something else that needs addressed. There are racing applications that use high pressure pumps but they also use dry sump systems. Adding volume and or pressure is usually not the best idea for many reasons, rockers starve for oil because the oil sprayed over them, drain back and pooling issues, not pulling heat away, rupturing the oil filter (that will quickly destroying the engine...), etc. The proof, is that neither design is used in most stock engines, even high output ones making crazy power. There are a few acceptations to that rule and when you look how the oiling system is laid out you can see why they band aided it with a pump design.... Controlling the oil is far more important than volume or high pressure. Both of those pump upgrades make controlling the oil much harder. Simply installing an upgrade pump does nothing to address any of the issues they introduce. What most people wont actually tell you is that a stock pump will do fine as long as you don't starve it for oil. I have used stock pumps in deep pans with accusump's for years and not had oiling issues, even at crazy power levels.
The “pressure” is not created by the pump. The pressure is created by bearing clearances.
@@Crazy8ts demonstrate for us how over a gallon of oil can be suspended against gravity. The only way pressure will drop is if the proper level is low and the return passages are all but clogged. I have a hv pump in my 440 and never "starved" for oil from 800-5000 rpm.
@@scatpack68 In theory you would think that oil would be pulled by gravity back into the pan, but sadly it is not always the case. Put a stud girdle on the mains in your 440, and suddenly you will have massive oil control issues with a high pressure pump at the rpms you are running. Go to 8k, and the HV over about 60 psi, it will start to show issues with .0035 mains. Why? The windage... There is far more to it than gravity...
@@shvrdavid #1 there's no reason to go past 5k rpm in a stock 440 mag, #2 these engines all came with a windage tray for a reason.
You missed the basics of hydraulics . Pumps dont create pressure, they move fluid. The restrictions in the system create pressure. The “bypass” is a relief valve. It doesn’t always pop when you hit max rpm.
As one of the newbies, I LOVE this type of video. Good to see you throwing one in now and then like you did in your early days. Oh, and bring back the stunt carb!!!
I always use Deep Purple when I clean my oil pump pickup. Highway Star, Smoke on the Water, Space Truckin', as loud as possible.
One of the most misunderstood things about any pump is that they create pressure. They do not. Pumps create flow. Pressure is a measurement of resistance to that flow.that why the spring changes the pressure, and the larger pump volume changes the flow.
A stiffer relief valve spring will only increase the maximum pressure. It won't increase your oil pressure at, for example, hot idle if you are only getting 10 PSI and the relief valve doesn't even open until 60+ PSI.
To increase oil pressure at below the pressure the relief valve is set for, you either need to increase the restriction with tighter clearances, thicker oil, less leakage, etc or you need more flow from the pump.
An AMC V8 has to be packed with such a grease or petroleum jelly. If you do not, it will not pick up the oil out of the pan. I agree with everything else, and agree that the normal Mopar, Ford , Chevy do not need this. Buick and AMC does.
Personally I blame squirrels
I blame the moose
@@uncle_moose :( damn moose
@@uncle_moose I blame kangaroos and geese
ITS TEH G*& $*#@% M@&@^$* WOODCHUCKS!!
572 wedge lives
Shimming a spring do not increase its max value,but only its preload value,you will still have the same max oil pressure.
Cutting a spring shorter and shimming it back to its original size does increase max pressure.
No, you're wrong. Shimming oil pump relief springs is a long accepted practice for raising max oil pressure. Done it myself many times
@@ericlandstrom6155
linear coil springs like here, collapse according to a linear effort , like 30 pounds for 1 inch, 60 pounds for 2 inches etc....
A shim will only start the compression,but do not change the amount of force it will take to collapse the spring,it will just delay it until its max resistance to effort is overcame.
If you want to increase a spring force,you increase its coil diameter or shorten and shim it to keeping its stock length and coil diameter.
Just look at leaf springs,the shorter they are,the less flexible they are.
@@michaelovitch You're correct in a general sense, however the pressure relief valve doesn't need to completely compress the spring in order to do its job. What determines the maximum oil pressure is the force required to push the valve past the pressure relief opening, and shimming the spring will increase the required force.
Actually the Rover V8 was known as an engine that needed the pump packed or it doomsday, it would never prime. Even an oil change, swap the filter first then drop the oil. The problem could even occur if the vehicle had been sitting a longtime.
I had in the past used a pressure sprayer hooked up to oil pressure fitting to prime them.
Sure someone will mention other Buicks that were similar. Incidentally never seen issues with the Vasaline, but like I mentioned, you can use a pressure sprayer.
The rover v8 and Buick V8s are closely related if you know your auto history. Might explain some of that
@@wobbles7915 Correct. I had a Rover SD1 V8 in my Toyota Celica and I purchased a manual which stated that Rover V8 is based Buick.
Is the Rove a gear pump or the type shown here.
@@wobbles7915 Buick 215.
@@mpetersen6 Gear.
Hi Uncle Tony. Good job. I learned a lot. The next oil system video vould be about the downstream component, the oil filter. Check valve diaphram, silicone or rubber. What engines have bypass valves in the filter or not. Filter media and pleat count, etc. Good quality filters vs. Cheap ones, etc. Thanks.
Agreed, that could make a very good educational video.
Project Farm did a video on oil filters. I think you might like it.
Pumps...A friend brought his 'new' car round to show off.. After looking around I pulled a piece of Black tape off the dash to show a red light,sea mal is that bad?🙄
I says you might get home... 😢😢
You talked about the high pressure created from adding grease to the pump, and the strain on the pumps driveshaft.
Nobody talks about strain on the driveshaft caused by oil thickeners.
Nobody talks about the strain on the drive shaft caused by high volume and or high pressure fuel pumps.
Nobody talks about using
thick oil and revving the engine while it's cold........
I've always been concerned about a stock oil pump and drive shaft and weather thicker engine oil or oil additives or even cold engines with thick oil can break an oil pump drive shaft.
I met the EX Wife of MR Melling on a Ski Trip about 20 years ago. Viking Ski Club South Bend IN
Yeah the oil pump shaft on a SBF is the Achilles heel of it in my opinion... I put an aftermarket shaft in them even if it is a stock type build! Good video..
Yeah, the long Allen key waa. Always fun to see them twisted like a pretzel.......in somebody else's engine.
Andy be keeping an eye on UT 👀
@@baby-sharkgto4902 Always!
I had one pump that wouldn’t prime. I took off the oil filter and used a shop Vac to suck some oil through the pump which then allow the pump to prime.
That looks like rod bearings in the strainer
I once found ALL the nylon teeth off a Chevy 350 cam gear in the strainer. LOL and the engine still ran
Ahahahahah, yeah Tony, I can tell you, some 30 yrs ago, I had my friend, my Mechanic in Mexico. I brought to him all of the parts to "rebuild" my 1953 Chevy, 216 cu in inline 6 cyl parts, but I didn't buy an OIL PUMP. My mechanic tells me, hey Marcelo you didn't bring me an oil pump? I told him, "oh , it doesn't need it, the oil presure was FINE". He told me,........... "look, if I'm going to be going into this engine so deeply, you need to bring me a NEW OIL PUMP, doesn't matter if you say it didn't need it, I'm going to put in a NEW oil pump. Otherwise, all of the other parts are going to be NEW and the oil pump will be old, and it's the WEAK LINK, and it'll break , right away! You go get me/bring to me a NEW OIL PUMP! I said , yes sir. I learned something very valuable, right there~!
My 96 Buick Roadmaster sedan has the 2nd gen LT1 with 160k miles. I had to pull the engine to replace the rear main seal cause I was losing literally a quart of oil a day. Since I had to pull the pan to change the seal and gasket, I put a new oil pump in it. I went with a high volume pump. I don't know if it was a good idea or not. I don't have an oil pressure gauge. I don't know how much pressure it had before or after. It hasn't caused any problems that I'm aware of. But I wish I had just left it alone. I had plans to do a bunch of modifications to get more power. But my budget never allowed it. The LT1 is expensive to build. It's a great engine, but it wasn't made long enough for aftermarket companies to make a bunch of cheap parts for it. I could build 2 1st gen small block Chevys for the price of building 1 LT1. Even the LS based engines are cheaper to build. For a guy like me who has no budget, that's a problem
Everybody needs to watch this video! thank you for clearing up the confusion between the standard volume, high volume, and high pressure pumps! there's an age old confusion associated with em. Great video as always!
Did the 383 HP 335 horsepower come with a regular or high volume pump?
Regular that's all you need unless you do internal oil modifications.
@@karlsracing8422 sorry for the late reply. I was thinking of doing this modification for a hot street car 383 being set up to run light to light.ua-cam.com/video/vfOGIdHU-qc/v-deo.html
Hey Tony you said you cleaned the strainer with Deep Purple. Im just curious what led you to clean strainers with a 70s British rock music band? I am going to try this out but how do I properly use Deep purple to clean with? Do i just play any song at the strainer? Is there a particular song that works better? How far should my speakers be, or should i use headphones? I was planning on playing smoke on the water at my strainer but was unsure as child in time seems like it could be a better fit.
Thanks for what you do and have a nice day!
Highway star, of course
USe Iron Butterfly instead
@@THRASHMETALFUNRIFFS iron butterfly is for carb tuning... get it right man!
Love the info uncle Tony. I watch all the time, like a lot of videos, but I dont comment often. I appreciate everything you share with us.
You were right, UT. It was the bypass getting stuck. Took it out, cleaned it and stuck it back in. Spun it, made like 22-24 PSI on the drill.
No that's wrong it's the exact opposite of what Tony said hahaha
old Chevy uses a gerotor??? Nope, been spur gear since the beginning
Melling is the only brand of oil pump i use in engine rebuilds and never had an issue.I do mostly fords and the drive shafts are so flimsy,always replace them with a Melling or ARP shaft even if its a stock rebuild.If any of you reading this have Fords the shaft will twist off with the engine still running with no oil pressure (If the pump locks up) If you use a hardened shaft it will shear off the pin in the distributor and the engine will shut off saving it.
The Ford's have a shaft like a 5/16 Allen wrench if I remember right the last one I built was in a old square bronco 302 2barrel bore job new Pistons cam lifters and valve job went back stock they run that thing in the mud till the sides fell off the body 👍
Had this exact thing happen to me with my 92 mustang. oil pump was binding, not totally seized. It still spun the gear on the distributor shaft. Somehow it didn't spin it totally off. Not knowing what had happened I managed to limp the car home a mile with timing retarded 40 degrees ATDC. The engine is now out of the car for a refresh.
@@wickedlou9 That's amazing it ran in that state,the OE 5.0 engines use an aluminum oil pump housing while the Melling replacement is cast iron and beefy.Part number M-68 is a standard volume pump for any small block ford. ARP 154-7904 is the drive shaft.
Thankyou greatly, a very clear and educational explanation.
Hey guys, if the bypass sticks & the gauge is showing no pressure at idle is the engine thus being starved for oil?
I built my first car engine when I was 12-13, years old, that was such longer ago than I want to think, before that it was a couple. Small engines, and a good bit of tinkering, with alot of stuff, it was a few years before OBD-2 , I used to use a high volume pump, but figured, unless you have looser than stock clearances, higher volume is just eating more power!
With the quality of parts today you should always disassemble a new pump and inspect it, you will find chips of metal and all sorts of garbage. Also the sign of a stuck closed relief valve is an exploding oil filter. I have always wanted a side by side comparison of the gear style and gerator style pumps, longevity, amount of power needed to run them and a performance comparison.
welding pick up tube to pump?
Love your videos UT.
Back to HVAC tech.
The oil that comes into the pump is pushed Into the pump by atmospheric pressure.
If you think about a very cold day up at 10,000 elevation.
That oil is really struggling to get into the pump.
I've seen a few small block ford pump drive shafts twisted off like it was made of plastic. Especially the 289 and some early 302 engines. Well worth installing a hardened aftermarket pump shaft on those engines. Chevy engines ,the pump and shaft are almost Bullitt proof. Big and small block Chryslers seem to be a little more prone to internal wear but well designed with little or no worries. I wouldn't recommend using a high pressure high volume pump on a rebuilt street engine. You lose power and gain nothing in reducing wear or reliability for the loss in power. 20% more pressure= 20% more power to drive the pump and at 5000 rpm that could be a 10 hp loss or more over the stock pump.
One thing you didn't mention is the size of the pickup tube. When I had my engine rebuilt the mechanic replaced the 1/2" tube with a 5/8", he told me that it would give a higher oil volume. When I start my hotrod the oil pressure gauge is buried and after it warmed up it is running a high pressure. Should this be a concern?
Changed out a pump pickup screen on a mustang once, it was clogged up with pieces of rubber. Turned out those pieces of rubber were pieces of oil pan gasket material. Crappy Ford design gaskets actually got smashed between the pan and block on the inside, over time those pieces got hard and brittle and flaked off, then the pump picked those pieces up and got lodged in the screen... real recipe for a disaster. Luckily this engine survived, a new pickup screen and a good pan cleaning solved the low pressure issue, and the pump itself was unscathed.
If it was a 60s or ealy 70s it might have been valve seal pieces too, they've been known to break up and get in the oil pick up
@@myretirementlife8731 it was a mid 80's model and it was the pan gasket material that flaked off in longated shapes from the inside edge of the pan.
8:00 boy were they getting loud in the back ground ;)
AAAhhhhhhhhhh
SO a ''high volume'' pump IS ALSO relatively higher pressure - according to the laws of physics.... so you do get both attributes with a high volume pump.........
BUT its not a higher MAX PRESSURE pump - which is what ''high pressure'' refers to when talking high volume/high pressure pumps........
I've been recently confused about this - cheers Uncle Tony - bloody spot on video...!!!
PS On the packaging - they really should just say -
1. high volume pump (and leave it at that); OR
2. high volume / high max pressure pump....... and then state what the max pressure is.....
Thanks- I learned a lot.
As a younger guy that didn’t get the opportunity to grow up around these old school vehicles these videos are honestly really very helpful
My 65 had a High Volume Pump. Clod start 84psi warm idle 43psi. That was fine, what I didn't like was at 3000RPM I was at 70psi and at 5500 I was over 100psi. Changed to a Standard Volume. Now at cold start 64psi and warm 38psi. But I never see more then 70 psi.
I have a brand new Triumph scramble 1200 motorcycle.
It runs great .
Took it in for a 600 mile service which included oil and filter change and it still runs great .
Took it in for second service at 1806 miles now the engine is knocking .
Service includes ECU update if available, oil & filter change.
WHY DO THESE MOTORCYCLE ENGINS KNOCK ?
The day I picked it up after the second service I noticed it knocking immediately of course but it’s still knocking.
Come to find out, all these engines knock after the first service. Mine started after the second service.
Mine also started knocking 35 seconds after starting then it would smooth out, but never go away completely.
Now it immediately knocks after starting the engine.
We are racking our brains trying to figure this out. Please help ….
Very informative video on simple yet so important basics! I'll be removing the oil pump on my Ford V6 and now know exactly what to expect and inspect! Thank you!
This was really helpful, could the oil pump cause you to have to much oil pressure? My oil pressure is around 80 and its a 74 Ford F250 with the 360 big block.
I learned a painful lesson ...
Always ck that NEW pump you bought from the parts house.. sometimes....
Things are as they need to be!
Tony ...I know this is off topic but years ago I read in mags that there was water injection a lot . but what was the concept???
Stops knock with high compression and cools the intake charge
An anti detonate, used when compression passes available octane....
About 20 years ago my neighbor/friend had a HV pump in his 350 Corvette. It pumped too much oil to the top end of the engine and caused cavitation. It seriously damaged the bottom end. I used 7qt pan & a HV pump in my Camaro. I never had any problems with mine doing that. He had a standard capacity pan. I can't remember what brand of pump I used. I believe it was a melling with a Summit pickup welded on. I took it apart before I installed it and it had white grease inside it.
Most mechanics I know of prime the oil pump before they put the distributor in to make sure the engine is lubed before startup. It also lets you know what the pressure is.
yup, I've had my knuckles smashed against the firewall more than once priming an engine. You have to be ready for when the pump starts building pressure or it can twist a powerful drill out of your hands
@@superrodder2002 Ouch 🤕
Mechanics gloves is a thought.....
As simple as the oil pump is , this was still very informative Thanks UT.
I had an oil pump seize up in a ford 400 v8 once. Old, maybe original, timing gears had vinyl coated teeth. The vinyl started falling off, and the oil pump managed to suck up a small piece of it. Squished the vinyl flat before seizing up. The 3/8" allen/hex driveshaft twisted around partially, but didn't break. The teeth on the camshaft & distributor gears got chewed up in the process, also shearing the pin holding the distributor gear in place on its shaft.
I was already planning an engine swap, and didn't want to invest a bunch of money into fixing the 400 properly. So I cleaned up the oil pump, swapped in a spare distributor gear, new timing gears & chain, set the timing, cleaned the oil pan and changed the oil & filter, and hoped for the best.
It's been running fine ever since! Better actually, without the timing slop.
It's still gonna come out though.
On the Pentastar engine a chain-driven, vane-type variable displacement oil pump adjusts the flow rate and pressure as commanded by the engine management system, which uses a solenoid to drive the pump into low or high pressure mode. For example, below 3,500 rpm, the pump conserves energy by using low pressure; at speeds over 3,500 rpm, the pump switches to high pressure.
A force balance mechanism inside the oil pump adjusts the size of the pumping chambers to alter oil flow.
Excellent video. My 280zx has low oil pressure at idle and when the oil gets hot, the electric fuel pump turns off to protect the engine. Before I try a high pressure pump, I think I will try a high pressure spring. Great info!
I’ve saw lots of people on forums saying a high volume pump on a stock oil pan for a SBC is a bad idea because it will suck the pan dry what’s your opinion on this?
One of the most informative videos I've ever watched.
When cold idling at like 2000 rpm my Ford Coyote is at nearly 100psi but settles down to around 30 at 800rpm when hot.
FYI, the once great Chrysler flat head had the same external oil pump
I love those old 6's. I kinda want to buy a 230 and run nitromethane on it. Its got the right architecture with it being undersquare
I can't say I have ever had much of a problem with the oil pumps on my engines (mostly all small block Mopar). I did have a high mileage 360 in a Powerwagon that would drop down to about 10-15 lbs at idle, and then about 40-50 at driving speed, but otherwise most of the small block Mopars I have had run about 25 lbs at idle and 60-70 lbs at driving speed.
Before I put a new oil pump in my Comanche 4.0 I put a little bit of oil in the pressure side; backed the shaft off a little, put more in and bolted it up to the block. (Damn, those pickup tubes are a bitch to R&R!) Been working fine ever since. AMOF at roughly 215,000 miles it has better oil pressure, than the 208,000+mile 4.0 in my Grand Cherokee! It's gettin' a new one before long, too :-).
Superb video. This explained everything I wanted to know, and more.
My i ask something?
What a maximum pressure makes safe zone in entire RPM...let's if it stay statistic all along in 70psi in 0-8000 Rpm is it safe?
Are all oil pumps a similar design. The Ford Powerstroke high pressure oil pump looks exactly the same.
Hey Uncle tony, you are awesome! I have a question that's off the beaten path but I have a 350 Chevy that has been rebuilt, I have no idea who has done it but I have taken the pan off and yes there are brand new Pistons new bearings you cam new lifters, the problem I have is I checked bearing clearances rods and mains with plastic gauge and it is 1.5 thousands what seems a little tight to me even though Chevy says it's within Speck would you run this? Or do something to increase clearance?
The noise in the back is not a problem, your first 5 or All the videos have more noise & dogos eating your food 😂,am joke, you have amazing videos with a lot of knowledge, am like it ,am still looking your videos since you started, 10 years ago they are all good’s even with noises thanks for what you teaching
So i just recently bought a chevy express van which when cold start up the oil pressure is at 60psi. As the engine warms it goes down to 35-40psi but if i rev the engine it will make out up to 60-80psi. Should i replace my oil pump?
Especially Ford.....because the are a very fragile thing.......
Proof, so we can stop arguing now, that Chevy is the best. You heard it here folks!
Thank you uncle Tony a very educational video on oil pumps you have an old school of knowledge.🇺🇲🚗🚙
Took a long time to find your excellent video on the oiul pump. Our Toyota has been -pampered throuout it's 112k life but there is zero
oil pressure pressure. My wife will not let me tackle it = she says I'm too old at 82. I am told you are unlucky... Toyota 2002 land cruiser =
3 L - D4D 1KD-FVT engine. Toyota says parts can fail ! Two decxent mecanics both have not 'done one'.......
The last episode I had to sort out the injectors that the so called experts repaced 1 injector instead of 2 & yet the parts /specialists showed me the report that told the diesel repairers there were two injetcors that neede replacing. It was embarrasing getting the £500 labour costs back in my pocket....... Interestingly they had not cleaned one bit of carbon off the lobes on the cams. There was hardly any clearance on any of the tappets. It was donkey's years since I had done an engine rebuild with my pal, a first class motor engineer who taught me in a very strict manner...........he would say = never use an adjustible spanner on a motor! EVER. He siad mick you won't get paid helping us but you've had a hell of an appreticshire * wilk never need to take your 'cars' to a garage....... Then came the ECU.
Just finished a 355 sbc. top to bottom. My son thought he bought a Melling pump from jegs but jegs sent there own. Can`t get much more then 10 psi at 1500 rpm then idle at 5. Guessing the spring is hung up. This has a stock pan . Can use a 1055 Melling or will it run dry? What pump do you rec? Thanks in advanced. Love the channel
So std pump OK in a say 318 stroker build, max revs 6000 Any truth that scuttle butt that hi vol pump can drain the sump and lead to failures?
Cool and interesting video! I really like watching your channel because I always learn something. On worn pumps or for high performance applications, there is a company called Line to Line Coatings that have an abradable powder coat they use mainly for piston skirts, but they also do anything that rotates and has clearances like oil pumps. Pretty cool stuff!
talk the talk, it's SUCTION not VACUUM on the pick up side, otherwise good info. Maybe go into oil pumps with 2 check valves in the future. Thx
Thanx Uncle Tony for another basic lesson. :) Actually after 25 years working maintenance in a chemical factory I consider myself an expert on pumps. Scoring definitely has a huge effect on pump efficiency.
my 91 s10 2.8l has high pressure over 80 the max on dash. Any ideas?
Great video! I have a 2000 Jeep Cherokee, 282000+ miles. Well, it was that time to replace the rear oil seal, might as well replace the oil pump too. It's a Melling high volume pump. Talk about a night and day difference on the pressure.
Awesome vid---i have a 1998 318 that would lose and regain oil pressure, when i disassembled engine found oil pump pick up screen half plugged , do you think this could cause oil presssure loss? what parts would you replace? Thxs
Hey I’m changing my cam to a truck Norris cam should I change the oil pump for a performance if so what is best pump for it. It’s an LM7 engine
Great video with an excellent instructor. Been in the aviation maintenance business for years, so i well know to have an effective session of instruction you have to have a guy like this. The problem today is these kids don't understand the systems. Please do more videos like this as i too am learning.
GM small block oil pumps (which a vast number of viewers are probably dealing with) are gear pumps, rather than gyrotor, but same general concerns would apply.
There is a kit available for an M72s that replaces the spring, cap, and cotter pin. I use one with a normal volume M72 in my daily 5.2 magnum. I can't vouch for it completely but the dummy gauge in my jeep goes to "50" on the highway at 1800 rpm. Its a shame they don't put a real gauge in; I'll probably be fixing that soon.
Internal pumps with no gasket. Always check the mateing surfaces are true and flat. Dont over tourque. Check bolt / stud clearance to the body of the pump. Simple.
This bit with the HV pump.. Every moderate street build I've personally seen where a HV pump was used, eventually was autopsied to see all the main bearings gone copper. 🤔 Hmm. Then virgin high mile junkyard jobs standard volume pumps come apart with the bearings still like new. Double Hmm 🤔🤔
Nice video. Can anyone recommend a good cam with nice sound for a street driven 318 truck. One that actually improves engine output.
What’s your thoughts a stronger shaft for high volume/ pressure pumps, I usually build motor tight clearance and high volume pump, which gives me higher pressure, I always pre lube motor before starting using a drill then turn crank by hand so oil flows through everything before I put valve covers on but that’s just my way
How would I have oil pressure issues at idle , yet engine is running smooth? oil light flickers on and off. 2013 hyundai genesis coupe 2.0t
Did an oil change, new filter( all hyundai parts) new oil pressure switch,
Please and thank you
I like to put a bit of Lucas in the pump when building the engine, a bit of Lucas and oil, Chevy pumps, with steel pinned drive shaft, the Lucas being so sticky it primes very easily, I always use a new oil pump, and pickup, and when I have the pan off a older engine, I go with a new pump and pick-up! Like you say it's dirty oil and can wear, the 94, 454 I bought. I had checked. The bearings, and new pump, and timing chain, come to learn, it only had about 50k miles on it, but toting a motorhome is no easy life! It sounds great with air gap rpm intake and long tube headers! But it's a truck cam, and probably done by 4k rpm, great video
Great videos, really like the technical ones, but getting back to the basics are helpful, in remembering stuff and even learning a different way. Keep them coming.
why would i build great pressure until 3k rpm, then drop pressure from 3kto 5k rpm, and from 5k rpm until 6200, it has great oil pressure
Can you address the claim that a high-volume pump will "pump your pan dry"? While I do not believe this is a real issue (especially with a tight motor) I still hear it from reputable sources.
My hubby takes every new oil pump apart and checks clearances, which are usually wrong, and one time, found a metal chip in the pump !
Back in 2003 Dad found a beat up 1994 F150 with a 5.0L for sale. Had to go to the next county over to pick it up, wasn't that far to drive. On the way home he realized the engine had been hurt. Not prior to him buying it, but after he started driving it. The dang oil had sludged up in the pan, and the strainer sucked it up and stopped itself up. Lesson learned. Buy an older vehicle, it might be good to change the oil before you start down the road.
When he took the engine apart, it wasn't that bad, if he would have changed it, it would have flowed most every bit of the sludge out as it drained. Just that enough sludge got up in the screen it starved the engine for oil.
Wanna have some fun Tony, Fill a 5 gallon aquarium with water, hook a drill to the shaft. Stick an unlubricated pump in the water and turn on the drill. It will suck up water even dry (head pressure) and send it out the port. . You can show the difference of the high volume pump at the same RPM too
great now when i replace my rear main oil seal 351cleveland modified i will get new strainer for sure.probabla pump too.account it has 105thousand