WOW the inside of the engine confirms that you looked after this engine, proper oil changes, no wear on the sprockets, Some of these engines are in much much worse shape at far lower KMs.
Thank you. 🙂 After watching various videos of worn sprockets and cam chains, you can't help but be concerned about the condition of your own engine. So there was actually a real wow feeling after I saw that my engine was in much better condition than expected.
Thank you for the tutorial sir, very clear and interresting. I wanted to know where did you purchase the special tools ? Maybe you can share kind of Part No ? Many thanks for your support 👌🏻
Yes of course. The right tools are more than half the work, so I'm happy to share that with you. "Timing Chain Splitting/Fitting Tool Kit" is a product from Laser Tools and has item number 6740. "Petrol Engine Timing Tool Kit - for Mercedes 1.6/1.8 M271 - Chain Drive" is a product from SEALEY and has item number VSE 4816. The temporary lock for the cam chain is from FEBI BILSTEIN (Item number 34729) This is included with some kits and is missing from others so it is a good idea to order one just in case. This can be reused a few times. Everything was ordered and delivered from Autodoc.eu. But it may also be available from retailers and other online stores.
Thank you. I agree with that. I like to take pictures while I work. Many times it has proven to be an invaluable help to be able to look back in time with the pictures that have been taken
Hello, The M271 engine, like so many other engines, has parts that are controlled by oil pressure. During start-up, it takes just a short moment until the lubricating oil has reached all parts and the oil pressure is optimal. The duration depends, just as you write, on how long the engine has been switched off and how much of the lubricating oil in the engine has flowed back to the sump. My own engine is no exception. I only use fully synthetic lubricating oil approved on the official MB 229.5 list (or better). In the past I used 5W-40 or 5W-30. Now I use 0W-30. I can also hear the same noises at startup. But they are nowhere near as violent or last as long as the sound at first start (30:25). That was a bit over the top. However, I am not worried if the noise is "normal" and short and everything else works. If this is not the case, then it is very difficult to say what may be the cause of the abnormal sound. In the case of a loud or strong noise, I would suspect wear in the parts (chain tensioner, cam chain, variable valve timing adjustment, etc.) or lack of lubrication/oil pressure. It could easily be both or something else entirely. I would probably just start with an oil change and filter change and see if that changes the noise and otherwise take it from there.
Hi, that's a lot of money to pay at once. Especially if you can do the work yourself for less. Or have the option of going to another workshop that will do the work for less. However, professional workshops have a clear advantage. I usually say that it's not just the hours you pay for. You are also paying for years of experience, training and a workshop that has all the mechanics and tools available to do the job. On top of that, workshops usually have insurance that covers work injuries and unforeseen situations. All this is included in the price.
@@smilocom exactly and now i regret it a bit, i made a mistake. i didn't rotate the camshaft twice but only once i think. when i saw 0T on the shaft i changed the alignment of the camshafts on the indicated point thinking that by doing so i could proceed with the replacement. but looking at your video again i realized the mistake.. what can i do now to fix it? do i rotate the crankshaft under 0T checking that piston number 1 is in maximum extension and then i also align the camshafts?
My mechanic charged me about 2500 euro for labour and parts. All in I counted 38 items from big to medium to small. Timing chain, timing chain tensioner, both cam adjusters, bracket, N20 lower gear, all bracket, lower chain, inner seals, cooling water pump, thermostat, radiator inlet hose, belt tensioner, engine mounts, transmission mount, drive shaft rubber booths, one used drive shaft, rear hub seal, oil cooler gasket, gear oil, both rear wheel arch plastic cover, etc etc. it is costing me 1/2 the current value of my car. 😂😂😂.
@@mentesanaincorporesano1000 euro in Italy is not that bad I paid 800 euro in Bulgaria for the job, and u said u messed it up, so the money you tried to save will bite you badly now
If you only need to change the chain tensioner, then the procedure for removing the chain tensioner is roughly the same as in the video from 16:22. Remember that the engine must not be turned until a new chain tensioner has been fitted (from approx. 24:26).
I have now driven almost 2000 kilometers with the new cam chain. It's almost like having a new car. - Easier cold start. - Quieter engine running. - Better fuel economy. (3% less consumption on average) - Less to worry about I have measured the length of the old cam chain to be approx. 4mm longer than a new cam chain. A cam chain does not stretch, increased length is only caused by wear. My calculator says that this corresponds to an increased length of approx. 0.3% I have read that a cam chain should preferably be changed before the length has increased by 0.2% and at the very latest by 0.5%.
I have this issue now with my E-Class W212 2009. My mechanic diagnosed the chain lengthening on time but didn't see an immediate replace as necessary for several occasions. And now the chain has damaged one of the plastic sliders inside and the engine decentered. I am extremely angry about this situation. A client I have followed his approached and clearly he didn't foresee this risk. Now, I have to pay much more repairment costs just because we did not change the chain urgently.
It is a very unfortunate situation you have ended up in and you have every reason to be angry. I would be too. I usually say that if there is the slightest doubt, don't hesitate and just get it fixed. But there can also be situations where you can document one or the other. With e.g. limit values and measurable data. You and your mechanic have acted in good faith, what else is there to do, but sometimes that's not enough to prevent the unforeseen. It is impossible to say whether it could have been avoided, but it could possibly have been a different outcome. Who knows. A friend of mine has experienced exactly the same thing. It was an expensive experience, but in return the engine was like new after most of it had been replaced. I hope you find a good solution and all the best.
Hello from Greece. I have a 2002 CLK C209 with the exact same engine. Around 191k km now. Have the car since 152k km and changed just the chain immediately. At around 175k km I did a valve job (because some early M271 suffered from burnt out exhaust valves cause the material was rubbish). I have a photo of the sprockets when the engine was opened. They look like yours more or less. Can I show you the photo somehow? I am worried about their longevity. Hope the early oil changes (6k km) and 5w-40 Petronas oil will help. Any other preventative measures ? Was the slightly fazed out timing on yours giving any symptoms or you just discovered it when looking at the timing marks? Thank you in advance and also thank you for your interesting and detailed video.
The result may be a damaged engine. Changing the head gasket is a lot of work and it only takes a little extra time to check the timing beforehand and put a few dabs of paint on reference points. It will be a good investment and ensure that you have the best starting point. As in best practice.
I was doing this yesterday on my m271. I think you should've showed the part where the tensioner engages and makes a noise. If I'm correct spinning a Mercedes crank is difficult at first and then gets easier. It feels like hump and doesn't spin freely.
Hi, You are right. The sound heard when the oil pressure hits the chain tensioner is quite distinct. My car has an early version of the chain tensioner. It only has spring pressure until oil pressure is achieved and that is not enough to keep vibration out of the cam chain. Since the chain tensioner has been removed and then installed again, there is now air in the oil supply and it takes just a little extra time to get the air out and the oil pressure back. I think the chain tensioner has some kind of non-return valve on the oil supply, which ensures that no vibrations occur at low oil pressure and that oil pressure is obtained as soon as possible after starting. That explains why it doesn't make so much noise on the next and subsequent starts. Regarding cranking the engine, I haven't noticed anything abnormal on my engine. I think all engines just require a little extra power to overcome the internal friction that occurs when the engine is not rotating. It becomes easier as soon as the lubricating oil reaches all places and works its magic together with the kinetic energy that has been built up.
Thank you for very informative video. I am wondering since going this far to replace the timing chain, would it make any sense to remove the upper timing chain aluminum cover and replace orings or gaskets just to prevent future oil leaks????? Do you happen to know if there are any components behind the cover such as orings or gaskets prone to leaking? I am reffering to cover to which the two camshaft magnets are mounted to? Thanks!
Hi IJ Thank you for the kind words. I am not aware of any oil leaks directly related to the top cover or parts behind it. A reason to remove the upper chain cover may be if the cam chain adjusters need to be replaced or serviced or if the chain guide rail, which the chain tensioner presses on, needs to be replaced. The cover itself does not have a traditional rubber seal, but is mounted and sealed with a liquid seal that cannot be reused. Before it can be removed, it is necessary to drain the coolant and remove the hose connection for the coolant together with the thermostat. It is also a good idea to replace the thermostat and associated o-rings with new parts if this is carried out. The leak that seems to be the most common is around the magnets that adjust the valve adjuster mechanism. They are mounted on the cover itself. So keep an eye on them. You can choose to replace only the o-rings, but the problem has turned out to be that the magnet housing itself is leaking oil through the connector to the wire. So it is the magnet housing itself that eventually needs to be replaced together with the o-ring. A small extension cord can be retrofitted to protect the wiring harness if the oil leak occurs again. You can easily see how this is done in one of my other videos. With best regards.
@@smilocomI am glad, for once, seeing a video of a M271 still having all teeth on its cam adjuster. 🎉🎉🎉🎉 157,000km is not low mileage. Mine at 215,000km had 21 of its 44 teeth broken for inlet cam adjustor. 27,000km of it is under me in 2.5 years as the 3rd owner. Your oil change is every 5000 or 8000km?. For about 6 months prior I had fitted an oil gauge and it read at 1bar pressure at 750rpm at 90 to 92 degree C coolant temperature. At 70 to 72 degree C it reads at 2bar. Regards.
@smilocom A very good video! Very helpful. And the only video that also shows how to remove the parts to get to the chain tensioner. I have a w209 200 compressor with the m271 engine. I am currently changing the timing chain because mine is elongated and skipped a tooth or 2. I don't think the valves have touched the piston. Now I have a question for you. 1. the camshaft on the right side is skipped. We have now loosened the chain and pulled the new chain through. Now I just have to turn the right camshaft back to TDC? And then, when the left and right camshafts are at TDC, the set the crankshaft to TDC as well and then tighten the timing chain? So everything to TDC before I tighten the chain? Is that correct? When the right camshaft was not at TDC, I couldn't turn the engine all the way on the crankshaft. I think that was because of that. That the camshaft was not at TDC?
Well, yes, it all has to be set up correctly. The TDC marking on the belt pulley/vibration damper must be aligned with the positioning edge on the timing case cover. (Also check that the piston at cylindeer 1 is actually at TDC.) At the same time the markings on the camshaft adjusters must be aligned with the markings at the camshaft bearing housing. That is the basic position of camshafts. On the M271 engine, one tooth on the camshaft corresponds to approx. 20 degrees on the crank. So a tooth can make a really big difference. Install the chain tensioner and then spin the engine at the crankshaft a few turns to make sure everything is still alligned and set correctly (and the pistons do not hit any valves.)
I have experienced a similar situation with a small Toyota engine. After changing the timing chain etc. and adjusting the timing, the engine started again as if nothing had happened. I guess you're allowed to be lucky once in a while, so I hope it's going well for you.
@@smilocom thank you mate, i hope it so much.. Im a trainee, not much Money. :D I have Problems with the Generator, i dont know how to remove screws, i cant find them 🤣
Thank you. There was no rush to get the car out of the workshop and I worked on other projects at the same time. So I had the car in my workshop for a week and had fun with it and made this video. If it was urgent to get the work done, then the work could probably be done in a perhaps slightly long working day. It is typical when things have to go quickly that mistakes happen, so you have to be careful with that too.
Great video! But I disagree with your assessment that the camshaft adjuster sprockets are like new. They are worn on both adjusters which is quite visible. Even though it does not look as bad as in some other shocking pics where teeth are almost missing, they still should be replaced. Once the hardened surface is gone, they decay quite easily.
Hi, thanks for your comment. When I say they are like new, it is understood that they are of course used and a bit worn, but new compared to what else is found of horror pictures on the web. I was not quite so clear about that and I apologize for that. The point is that I can't immediately see any reason why the sprockets should be scrapped. It is based on the general knowledge that a chain sprocket, in good condition (the tip of the tooth is not worn and otherwise no damage), can typically last longer. I don't know exactly what ratio to expect on this cam chain, maybe two chains to one sprocket, but I am convinced that it is too early to scrap the sprockets. Especially when you now know that the chain won't last forever anyway. Then you can just wear out one more chain before the sprockets are also replaced. What will now happen is what is typical for a new cam chain on a used sprocket, and that is that the chain will wear a bit faster than if the sprocket was new. My theory is that when the chain is again worn to fit the sprocket perfectly, then you are back in balance. However, this does not stop the wear on the chain and again, after some time, the chain will wear more and faster than the sprocket. And then you are back where this began. I have a plan to check the condition of the sprocket and chain at about 50,000 km. Then I'll find out if it was a good or bad idea to just change the chain.
Hi from greece. Very common and known engine in my coyntry. Mine has 215.000 klm ,and no rattling sound or chain problems at all.since i will change the whole chain and gears tomorow,my mechanic also said to replace all the orings and some kind of thermostat cover. Its like a plastic tube . 🤔 Why didnt you change the orings?
Thanks for writing. I think your mechanic means changing the o-rings for the thermostat housing. If you have to change the variable camshaft adjusters, etc., then, in addition to what I showed, it is necessary to remove the plate that sits at the top of the front of the engine. This can only be done by first draining the cooling water and then removing the thermostat housing together with the thermostat. All this was not necessary for me and that was the reason why I did not change any o-rings this time. The thermostat housing can be very difficult to loosen. It is only necessary to replace the thermostat housing if it is damaged, otherwise it is just new o-rings. If the thermostat has never been changed (10+ years) then I would consider replacing it as well. Thermostats become sluggish over time and fail sooner or later. I have already changed my thermostat once.
@@smilocom yes my mechanic told me to buy this housing, 4 or 5 orings , and all the other rubber black things you also changed in your video. Do you have a facelift model or the older one? Cause mine is the facelift c230, and despite the 215000 klm ,never had a problem with my chain and gears. Im changing them as a precausion. Maybe the facelift models had better quality chain and gears
Mine is the old model (pre-facelift). The engine is probably the same anyway. 215000 km is amazing if everything is still in perfect condition. It could be interesting to know how much wear there is on your old cam chain and sprocket after so many kilometres. If you have the opportunity to measure it, please comment with the result.
@@smilocom i just finished instaling my new kit . Surprisingly neither my chain or gears were bad. My chain had 0.1 mm of tension,nothing major,and my gears i have photos if u want to see the. He told me they were for another 30.000 easily. Issues he saw,were multiple but minimal oil leaks almost everywere.even inside my cpu connectors. Very little inside there, but there was. And all my orings and this thermostat thing were in very bad condition. Sorry for my bad english. Im from Greece. Aa and these plastic tensioners which the chain touches them, they were all in very good condition, only one i changed. 5 orings changed , 2 for the thermostat, 1 mirror oring which is behind the thermostat,and 2 for variable magnetic ,i dont know how to say in english. The car with closed windows became surprisingly more quiet more refined engine sound
It's good to hear from you and that everything went well. :-) The magnets for cam timing also leak oil on my engine. But it is more than just the o-rings that fail. Oil is leaking through the unit and connector and into the wiring harness. From what I can read, the same has happened to you. (and many others) It's not that critical for me yet, but I've already bought new magnets with new o-rings and I'll change them soon. I also bought a special extension cable that prevents the oil from being drawn into the cable mesh. This is a preventive measure. The part number is 271 150 2733 and two are needed, one for each magnet.
Yes, it is possible and easy to do. Start by removing the plastic cover from the engine (fixed with clips), loosen the electrical plug connection to the ignition coils and loosen the bolts for the ignition coils (two per ignition coil) remove the ignition coils. Then there is free access to the spark plugs. The spark plugs sit deep in the engine, so good quality tools are essential to avoid damage during replacement. Assembly is in reverse order but be careful! - If the engine is hot, the new spark plug must only be inserted loosely and not tightened until it has reached the same temperature as the engine or until the engine has cooled down. (thermal expansion) Tighten with a torque wrench. Spark plugs typically to 25nm, but in my case to 23nm (Bosch recommended). The bolts for the ignition coils are tightened to 10nm. The spark plugs typically need to be replaced every 50,000 km or every four years - whichever comes first. Use only original spark plugs or equivalent quality. When it comes to spark plugs, there is nothing to save on low-priced products.
Hello, thanks for the great video. Question... My clk every time when I start the engine sounds like yours first start after work... Is it alarm for change the chain?
Hey, it could be. It can also be other parts. It's hard to tell from that description alone. In my case, the sound was probably related to the oil being drained from the chain tensioner. If the sound disappears as soon as the oil pressure is optimal, then that sound is very likely related to parts that depend on correct oil pressure. Wear in the parts can affect the sound. In any case, it is a good idea to find the cause of the sound and decide whether parts need to be replaced or whether everything is in order.
Hello, Engine oil and the oil filter element have been replaced at all A and B services. That is, approximately every 15,000 km. During periods when the car is used for many short trips, city driving, towing, etc., the oil filter element is also replaced at approximately the halfway distance for the next A or B service. That is, every 7,500 km. Mercedes-approved fully synthetic engine oil (MB 229.5) and original Mercedes oil filter element or equivalent OE quality (MANN / BOSCH) have always been used.
Hi, m271.942 there, i have P0010 (camshaft position actuator sensor / open bank 1) this code can be related to engine being off time? If i erese the code i cand drive and restart the car for some times and nothing will pop back in DTC for some times, btw, the engine run very smoth, idle and load too. Cand u give me an idea please?
Hi, thanks for writing. I don't have any experience with that particular error code. You have already replaced the magnets, so that is probably not where the fault lies. My gut feeling says that it may be the control valve itself that is worn or defective and the cause of the error code. I believe that the magnet can only open the control valve and that it closes with mechanical spring pressure (return spring). If the return spring is defective or oil residues and dirt block the valve from opening/closing, this could be a possible cause of the error. From what has been written on this subject, a defective valve is a very common cause. It could also be wear in the cam timing adjusters, perhaps a censor error or even a faulty ECU. There is probably no silver bullet that can fix your error code, it will be a bit of trial and error.
Hello, I am not aware of that being possible. The timing on the crankshaft in relation to the camshafts will be skewed in relation to how much the cam chain is worn. There is nothing that can be adjusted manually to prevent it. Only a new cam chain can fix that.
It is true. The general recommendation for changing the oil and filter is at 15,000 km or every year, whichever comes first. Of course, provided that the correct oil and filter are used. However, there is an important detail about the oil filter that many people do not know or think about. The quality of the oil filter, together with many different factors, can affect the actual service life of the oil filter. An oil filter must be replaced before it becomes saturated with dirt and particles. If this is not done, the oil will quickly become like an abrasive, at the same time that the lifespan of the engine oil is greatly reduced. If a good quality full synthetic motor oil is used, then my recommendation is to replace the oil filter at the oil change and then replace the oil filter again halfway through the oil's life. Especially if the oil filter is of unknown quality.
150k KMs per chain?? That's less than a belt! I thought chains we supposed to last much longer than belts? German engineering is now where near as long lasting as their reputation suggests, especially VAG and BMW!
WOW the inside of the engine confirms that you looked after this engine, proper oil changes, no wear on the sprockets, Some of these engines are in much much worse shape at far lower KMs.
Thank you. 🙂
After watching various videos of worn sprockets and cam chains, you can't help but be concerned about the condition of your own engine. So there was actually a real wow feeling after I saw that my engine was in much better condition than expected.
Thank you for the tutorial sir, very clear and interresting. I wanted to know where did you purchase the special tools ? Maybe you can share kind of Part No ? Many thanks for your support 👌🏻
Yes of course. The right tools are more than half the work, so I'm happy to share that with you.
"Timing Chain Splitting/Fitting Tool Kit" is a product from Laser Tools and has item number 6740.
"Petrol Engine Timing Tool Kit - for Mercedes 1.6/1.8 M271 - Chain Drive" is a product from SEALEY and has item number VSE 4816.
The temporary lock for the cam chain is from FEBI BILSTEIN (Item number 34729) This is included with some kits and is missing from others so it is a good idea to order one just in case. This can be reused a few times.
Everything was ordered and delivered from Autodoc.eu. But it may also be available from retailers and other online stores.
@@smilocom thank you very much, really apreciated. 🙂
Thanks so much from Cape Town South Africa
This video is indeed useful and enjoyable. Thank you for making this and you got one more new subscriber here.
Thank you. I appreciate it. 🙂
271 video: It's very informative as I intend to carry out this repair
Thank you. I appreciate it. 🙂
Great tutorial. Taking as many photos helps in re assembly as everything is very specific where it routes.
Thank you. I agree with that. I like to take pictures while I work. Many times it has proven to be an invaluable help to be able to look back in time with the pictures that have been taken
🤝 great job thanks
Good work
Thank you 🙂
30:25 is what i hear in my m271, when i leave it parked for a week. 5w30. 2-3 days, no aound like that
Hello,
The M271 engine, like so many other engines, has parts that are controlled by oil pressure. During start-up, it takes just a short moment until the lubricating oil has reached all parts and the oil pressure is optimal. The duration depends, just as you write, on how long the engine has been switched off and how much of the lubricating oil in the engine has flowed back to the sump.
My own engine is no exception. I only use fully synthetic lubricating oil approved on the official MB 229.5 list (or better). In the past I used 5W-40 or 5W-30. Now I use 0W-30. I can also hear the same noises at startup. But they are nowhere near as violent or last as long as the sound at first start (30:25). That was a bit over the top.
However, I am not worried if the noise is "normal" and short and everything else works.
If this is not the case, then it is very difficult to say what may be the cause of the abnormal sound. In the case of a loud or strong noise, I would suspect wear in the parts (chain tensioner, cam chain, variable valve timing adjustment, etc.) or lack of lubrication/oil pressure. It could easily be both or something else entirely. I would probably just start with an oil change and filter change and see if that changes the noise and otherwise take it from there.
Very Nice, Thanks.
Thank you. I appreciate it. 🙂
For this work and the substitution of the two phase my mechanic in italy want 1000 euro 😂 i think i will do it myself.
Hi, that's a lot of money to pay at once. Especially if you can do the work yourself for less. Or have the option of going to another workshop that will do the work for less.
However, professional workshops have a clear advantage. I usually say that it's not just the hours you pay for. You are also paying for years of experience, training and a workshop that has all the mechanics and tools available to do the job. On top of that, workshops usually have insurance that covers work injuries and unforeseen situations. All this is included in the price.
@@smilocom exactly and now i regret it a bit, i made a mistake. i didn't rotate the camshaft twice but only once i think. when i saw 0T on the shaft i changed the alignment of the camshafts on the indicated point thinking that by doing so i could proceed with the replacement. but looking at your video again i realized the mistake.. what can i do now to fix it? do i rotate the crankshaft under 0T checking that piston number 1 is in maximum extension and then i also align the camshafts?
My mechanic charged me about 2500 euro for labour and parts. All in I counted 38 items from big to medium to small. Timing chain, timing chain tensioner, both cam adjusters, bracket, N20 lower gear, all bracket, lower chain, inner seals, cooling water pump, thermostat, radiator inlet hose, belt tensioner, engine mounts, transmission mount, drive shaft rubber booths, one used drive shaft, rear hub seal, oil cooler gasket, gear oil, both rear wheel arch plastic cover, etc etc. it is costing me 1/2 the current value of my car. 😂😂😂.
@@mentesanaincorporesano1000 euro in Italy is not that bad I paid 800 euro in Bulgaria for the job, and u said u messed it up, so the money you tried to save will bite you badly now
Very informative detailed video. Thanks alot. I have a question can we only replace the timing chain tensioner?
And what will be the best way to do it
If you only need to change the chain tensioner, then the procedure for removing the chain tensioner is roughly the same as in the video from 16:22. Remember that the engine must not be turned until a new chain tensioner has been fitted (from approx. 24:26).
I have now driven almost 2000 kilometers with the new cam chain. It's almost like having a new car.
- Easier cold start.
- Quieter engine running.
- Better fuel economy. (3% less consumption on average)
- Less to worry about
I have measured the length of the old cam chain to be approx. 4mm longer than a new cam chain. A cam chain does not stretch, increased length is only caused by wear.
My calculator says that this corresponds to an increased length of approx. 0.3% I have read that a cam chain should preferably be changed before the length has increased by 0.2% and at the very latest by 0.5%.
I have this issue now with my E-Class W212 2009. My mechanic diagnosed the chain lengthening on time but didn't see an immediate replace as necessary for several occasions. And now the chain has damaged one of the plastic sliders inside and the engine decentered.
I am extremely angry about this situation. A client I have followed his approached and clearly he didn't foresee this risk. Now, I have to pay much more repairment costs just because we did not change the chain urgently.
It is a very unfortunate situation you have ended up in and you have every reason to be angry. I would be too.
I usually say that if there is the slightest doubt, don't hesitate and just get it fixed. But there can also be situations where you can document one or the other. With e.g. limit values and measurable data.
You and your mechanic have acted in good faith, what else is there to do, but sometimes that's not enough to prevent the unforeseen. It is impossible to say whether it could have been avoided, but it could possibly have been a different outcome. Who knows.
A friend of mine has experienced exactly the same thing. It was an expensive experience, but in return the engine was like new after most of it had been replaced. I hope you find a good solution and all the best.
Hello from Greece. I have a 2002 CLK C209 with the exact same engine. Around 191k km now. Have the car since 152k km and changed just the chain immediately. At around 175k km I did a valve job (because some early M271 suffered from burnt out exhaust valves cause the material was rubbish). I have a photo of the sprockets when the engine was opened. They look like yours more or less. Can I show you the photo somehow? I am worried about their longevity. Hope the early oil changes (6k km) and 5w-40 Petronas oil will help. Any other preventative measures ? Was the slightly fazed out timing on yours giving any symptoms or you just discovered it when looking at the timing marks? Thank you in advance and also thank you for your interesting and detailed video.
Great video. What would happen if I changed the head gasket without marking and aligning the timing chain?
The result may be a damaged engine.
Changing the head gasket is a lot of work and it only takes a little extra time to check the timing beforehand and put a few dabs of paint on reference points. It will be a good investment and ensure that you have the best starting point. As in best practice.
excelent. thank you
Thank you. I appreciate it. 🙂
I was doing this yesterday on my m271. I think you should've showed the part where the tensioner engages and makes a noise. If I'm correct spinning a Mercedes crank is difficult at first and then gets easier. It feels like hump and doesn't spin freely.
Hi,
You are right. The sound heard when the oil pressure hits the chain tensioner is quite distinct. My car has an early version of the chain tensioner. It only has spring pressure until oil pressure is achieved and that is not enough to keep vibration out of the cam chain. Since the chain tensioner has been removed and then installed again, there is now air in the oil supply and it takes just a little extra time to get the air out and the oil pressure back.
I think the chain tensioner has some kind of non-return valve on the oil supply, which ensures that no vibrations occur at low oil pressure and that oil pressure is obtained as soon as possible after starting. That explains why it doesn't make so much noise on the next and subsequent starts.
Regarding cranking the engine, I haven't noticed anything abnormal on my engine. I think all engines just require a little extra power to overcome the internal friction that occurs when the engine is not rotating. It becomes easier as soon as the lubricating oil reaches all places and works its magic together with the kinetic energy that has been built up.
Thank you for very informative video. I am wondering since going this far to replace the timing chain, would it make any sense to remove the upper timing chain aluminum cover and replace orings or gaskets just to prevent future oil leaks????? Do you happen to know if there are any components behind the cover such as orings or gaskets prone to leaking? I am reffering to cover to which the two camshaft magnets are mounted to? Thanks!
Hi IJ
Thank you for the kind words. I am not aware of any oil leaks directly related to the top cover or parts behind it.
A reason to remove the upper chain cover may be if the cam chain adjusters need to be replaced or serviced or if the chain guide rail, which the chain tensioner presses on, needs to be replaced.
The cover itself does not have a traditional rubber seal, but is mounted and sealed with a liquid seal that cannot be reused. Before it can be removed, it is necessary to drain the coolant and remove the hose connection for the coolant together with the thermostat. It is also a good idea to replace the thermostat and associated o-rings with new parts if this is carried out.
The leak that seems to be the most common is around the magnets that adjust the valve adjuster mechanism. They are mounted on the cover itself. So keep an eye on them. You can choose to replace only the o-rings, but the problem has turned out to be that the magnet housing itself is leaking oil through the connector to the wire. So it is the magnet housing itself that eventually needs to be replaced together with the o-ring. A small extension cord can be retrofitted to protect the wiring harness if the oil leak occurs again. You can easily see how this is done in one of my other videos.
With best regards.
@@smilocomI am glad, for once, seeing a video of a M271 still having all teeth on its cam adjuster. 🎉🎉🎉🎉
157,000km is not low mileage. Mine at 215,000km had 21 of its 44 teeth broken for inlet cam adjustor. 27,000km of it is under me in 2.5 years as the 3rd owner. Your oil change is every 5000 or 8000km?. For about 6 months prior I had fitted an oil gauge and it read at 1bar pressure at 750rpm at 90 to 92 degree C coolant temperature. At 70 to 72 degree C it reads at 2bar. Regards.
@smilocom A very good video! Very helpful. And the only video that also shows how to remove the parts to get to the chain tensioner.
I have a w209 200 compressor with the m271 engine.
I am currently changing the timing chain because mine is elongated and skipped a tooth or 2.
I don't think the valves have touched the piston.
Now I have a question for you.
1. the camshaft on the right side is skipped. We have now loosened the chain and pulled the new chain through. Now I just have to turn the right camshaft back to TDC? And then, when the left and right camshafts are at TDC, the
set the crankshaft to TDC as well and then tighten the timing chain?
So everything to TDC before I tighten the chain? Is that correct?
When the right camshaft was not at TDC, I couldn't turn the engine all the way on the crankshaft.
I think that was because of that. That the camshaft was not at TDC?
Well, yes, it all has to be set up correctly.
The TDC marking on the belt pulley/vibration damper must be aligned with the positioning edge on the timing case cover. (Also check that the piston at cylindeer 1 is actually at TDC.)
At the same time the markings on the camshaft adjusters must be aligned with the markings at the camshaft bearing housing.
That is the basic position of camshafts. On the M271 engine, one tooth on the camshaft corresponds to approx. 20 degrees on the crank. So a tooth can make a really big difference.
Install the chain tensioner and then spin the engine at the crankshaft a few turns to make sure everything is still alligned and set correctly (and the pistons do not hit any valves.)
@@smilocom thank you very much
I have experienced a similar situation with a small Toyota engine. After changing the timing chain etc. and adjusting the timing, the engine started again as if nothing had happened. I guess you're allowed to be lucky once in a while, so I hope it's going well for you.
@@smilocom thank you mate, i hope it so much.. Im a trainee, not much Money. :D
I have Problems with the Generator, i dont know how to remove screws, i cant find them 🤣
Excellent job, How long did this whole process take you in real time?
Thank you. There was no rush to get the car out of the workshop and I worked on other projects at the same time. So I had the car in my workshop for a week and had fun with it and made this video.
If it was urgent to get the work done, then the work could probably be done in a perhaps slightly long working day. It is typical when things have to go quickly that mistakes happen, so you have to be careful with that too.
Great video! But I disagree with your assessment that the camshaft adjuster sprockets are like new. They are worn on both adjusters which is quite visible. Even though it does not look as bad as in some other shocking pics where teeth are almost missing, they still should be replaced. Once the hardened surface is gone, they decay quite easily.
Hi, thanks for your comment. When I say they are like new, it is understood that they are of course used and a bit worn, but new compared to what else is found of horror pictures on the web. I was not quite so clear about that and I apologize for that.
The point is that I can't immediately see any reason why the sprockets should be scrapped. It is based on the general knowledge that a chain sprocket, in good condition (the tip of the tooth is not worn and otherwise no damage), can typically last longer. I don't know exactly what ratio to expect on this cam chain, maybe two chains to one sprocket, but I am convinced that it is too early to scrap the sprockets.
Especially when you now know that the chain won't last forever anyway. Then you can just wear out one more chain before the sprockets are also replaced.
What will now happen is what is typical for a new cam chain on a used sprocket, and that is that the chain will wear a bit faster than if the sprocket was new. My theory is that when the chain is again worn to fit the sprocket perfectly, then you are back in balance. However, this does not stop the wear on the chain and again, after some time, the chain will wear more and faster than the sprocket. And then you are back where this began.
I have a plan to check the condition of the sprocket and chain at about 50,000 km. Then I'll find out if it was a good or bad idea to just change the chain.
Are they worn or just a bit used ? Is the discoloration the hardened part? Teeth look like new in shape, don't they?
Hi from greece. Very common and known engine in my coyntry. Mine has 215.000 klm ,and no rattling sound or chain problems at all.since i will change the whole chain and gears tomorow,my mechanic also said to replace all the orings and some kind of thermostat cover. Its like a plastic tube . 🤔
Why didnt you change the orings?
Thanks for writing. I think your mechanic means changing the o-rings for the thermostat housing.
If you have to change the variable camshaft adjusters, etc., then, in addition to what I showed, it is necessary to remove the plate that sits at the top of the front of the engine. This can only be done by first draining the cooling water and then removing the thermostat housing together with the thermostat.
All this was not necessary for me and that was the reason why I did not change any o-rings this time.
The thermostat housing can be very difficult to loosen. It is only necessary to replace the thermostat housing if it is damaged, otherwise it is just new o-rings. If the thermostat has never been changed (10+ years) then I would consider replacing it as well. Thermostats become sluggish over time and fail sooner or later. I have already changed my thermostat once.
@@smilocom yes my mechanic told me to buy this housing, 4 or 5 orings , and all the other rubber black things you also changed in your video.
Do you have a facelift model or the older one? Cause mine is the facelift c230, and despite the 215000 klm ,never had a problem with my chain and gears. Im changing them as a precausion. Maybe the facelift models had better quality chain and gears
Mine is the old model (pre-facelift). The engine is probably the same anyway. 215000 km is amazing if everything is still in perfect condition.
It could be interesting to know how much wear there is on your old cam chain and sprocket after so many kilometres. If you have the opportunity to measure it, please comment with the result.
@@smilocom i just finished instaling my new kit . Surprisingly neither my chain or gears were bad. My chain had 0.1 mm of tension,nothing major,and my gears i have photos if u want to see the. He told me they were for another 30.000 easily. Issues he saw,were multiple but minimal oil leaks almost everywere.even inside my cpu connectors. Very little inside there, but there was. And all my orings and this thermostat thing were in very bad condition.
Sorry for my bad english. Im from Greece. Aa and these plastic tensioners which the chain touches them, they were all in very good condition, only one i changed.
5 orings changed , 2 for the thermostat, 1 mirror oring which is behind the thermostat,and 2 for variable magnetic ,i dont know how to say in english.
The car with closed windows became surprisingly more quiet more refined engine sound
It's good to hear from you and that everything went well. :-)
The magnets for cam timing also leak oil on my engine. But it is more than just the o-rings that fail. Oil is leaking through the unit and connector and into the wiring harness. From what I can read, the same has happened to you. (and many others)
It's not that critical for me yet, but I've already bought new magnets with new o-rings and I'll change them soon.
I also bought a special extension cable that prevents the oil from being drawn into the cable mesh. This is a preventive measure. The part number is 271 150 2733 and two are needed, one for each magnet.
Can the spark plugs be changed on this engine without removing the cam cover?
Yes, it is possible and easy to do.
Start by removing the plastic cover from the engine (fixed with clips), loosen the electrical plug connection to the ignition coils and loosen the bolts for the ignition coils (two per ignition coil) remove the ignition coils. Then there is free access to the spark plugs. The spark plugs sit deep in the engine, so good quality tools are essential to avoid damage during replacement.
Assembly is in reverse order but be careful! - If the engine is hot, the new spark plug must only be inserted loosely and not tightened until it has reached the same temperature as the engine or until the engine has cooled down. (thermal expansion)
Tighten with a torque wrench. Spark plugs typically to 25nm, but in my case to 23nm (Bosch recommended). The bolts for the ignition coils are tightened to 10nm.
The spark plugs typically need to be replaced every 50,000 km or every four years - whichever comes first. Use only original spark plugs or equivalent quality. When it comes to spark plugs, there is nothing to save on low-priced products.
Hello, thanks for the great video. Question... My clk every time when I start the engine sounds like yours first start after work... Is it alarm for change the chain?
Hey, it could be. It can also be other parts. It's hard to tell from that description alone. In my case, the sound was probably related to the oil being drained from the chain tensioner.
If the sound disappears as soon as the oil pressure is optimal, then that sound is very likely related to parts that depend on correct oil pressure. Wear in the parts can affect the sound.
In any case, it is a good idea to find the cause of the sound and decide whether parts need to be replaced or whether everything is in order.
Thank You for the answer 🙂
At how many km's/miles were oil changes been done on this vehicle?
Hello,
Engine oil and the oil filter element have been replaced at all A and B services. That is, approximately every 15,000 km.
During periods when the car is used for many short trips, city driving, towing, etc., the oil filter element is also replaced at approximately the halfway distance for the next A or B service. That is, every 7,500 km.
Mercedes-approved fully synthetic engine oil (MB 229.5) and original Mercedes oil filter element or equivalent OE quality (MANN / BOSCH) have always been used.
@@smilocom Ok thanks. At what km's did you replace the chain and sprockets?
@@smilocom Ok, thanks...At what km's did you replace the timing chain and sprockets?
Chain only at 157000 km.
Hi, m271.942 there, i have P0010 (camshaft position actuator sensor / open bank 1) this code can be related to engine being off time? If i erese the code i cand drive and restart the car for some times and nothing will pop back in DTC for some times, btw, the engine run very smoth, idle and load too. Cand u give me an idea please?
I've replaced the magnets and nothing changed.
Hi, thanks for writing. I don't have any experience with that particular error code. You have already replaced the magnets, so that is probably not where the fault lies.
My gut feeling says that it may be the control valve itself that is worn or defective and the cause of the error code.
I believe that the magnet can only open the control valve and that it closes with mechanical spring pressure (return spring). If the return spring is defective or oil residues and dirt block the valve from opening/closing, this could be a possible cause of the error. From what has been written on this subject, a defective valve is a very common cause.
It could also be wear in the cam timing adjusters, perhaps a censor error or even a faulty ECU. There is probably no silver bullet that can fix your error code, it will be a bit of trial and error.
hi sir hope you are good my question is can we correct the timing with old chain is it possible
Hello,
I am not aware of that being possible.
The timing on the crankshaft in relation to the camshafts will be skewed in relation to how much the cam chain is worn. There is nothing that can be adjusted manually to prevent it. Only a new cam chain can fix that.
So change oil once a year.... Got it. 😁😁😁
It is true. The general recommendation for changing the oil and filter is at 15,000 km or every year, whichever comes first. Of course, provided that the correct oil and filter are used.
However, there is an important detail about the oil filter that many people do not know or think about. The quality of the oil filter, together with many different factors, can affect the actual service life of the oil filter. An oil filter must be replaced before it becomes saturated with dirt and particles. If this is not done, the oil will quickly become like an abrasive, at the same time that the lifespan of the engine oil is greatly reduced.
If a good quality full synthetic motor oil is used, then my recommendation is to replace the oil filter at the oil change and then replace the oil filter again halfway through the oil's life. Especially if the oil filter is of unknown quality.
@@smilocom I have been changing oil in both my cars once a year for a few years now and no problems. One car is a work car the other is a weekend car.
150k KMs per chain?? That's less than a belt! I thought chains we supposed to last much longer than belts? German engineering is now where near as long lasting as their reputation suggests, especially VAG and BMW!