A short explanation/demonstration of preparing bare aluminum using acid and conversion coating techniques in preparation for painting an aircraft skin.
Very helpful thanks. Maybe you can shed some experienced light on method I am thinking of doing. I am painting a very shiny, very smooth 3020 or 3002 1/8" aluminum tool box I had made. My plan is to first use an automotive degreaser and cleaner prep. Rinse. Etch with red scotch Brite pad. Then apply apple cider vinegar, rinse. Wipe dry. Apply 2-3 coats Moeller Zinc Chromate primer. Let dry over night. Sand with 600 grit wet dry sand paper. Then apply automotive ( spray gun application) and 2 coats clear sealer. Doesn't follow video. But it's a small project . From your experience is my method going to achieve adhesion to aluminum. ? Changes ? Thanks
This method is.for real airplane only or any aluminium stuff. I need to paint aluminium aircraft models and I'm wondering how to do it. First need to find rhe way how to take off 40 year old paint from it tham how to paint again. I am reading there are some chemicals which remove easily but I'll try with that. I was thinking air sanding method too😮
Alumiprep isn't necssary. You can use a white scotchbrite pad and water to scrub the aluminum until water doesn't bead on the surface anymore. Then apply the alodine. The key is clean until water sheets not beads on the suface.
Very helpful video. Good product info to use and steps to use them information. Reading comments. I think the word "instructional video" is useful. It was a demonstration of what to use and how to use it. The comments are common sense for anyone who works with chemicals. Sure he could have added three minutes explaining everything about chemicals from drinking to discard clothing (optional) however every product has warning and use instructions on the label. Always read the labels. Again thanks for the instructional video.
Good information. Thank you. And I would agree with another post...hydrofluoric acid is rough on your hands....gets under your finger nails and eats the soft tissue. Pump up sprayer perhaps?
Scrub the new Ali with Deoxidine and nylon brush or scotchbrite until you have a water wet break free flow, dry the Alocrom 1200 starting from the bottom up, you're after a tea colour on the Ali, test the Alocrom for adhesion if all OK epoxy prime. Top coat within 24 hours or moisture is absorbed. That's what is was taught as a young military aircraft painter 36 years ago.
How do you remove the acid from inside of the fuselage? I cringed when I saw you brushing the first solution on as it seeps in to the cracks and crannies including the rudder exit holes and angle on the bottom of the fuselage. That little garden hose action surely did nothing to remove that acid from inside of the fuse.
When I painted airplanes, we would clean the surface with a scotch Brite and lacquer thinner, then apply the acid, rinse, then the alodine.the after dry, prime.
I am going to use this technique to refinish some designer aluminum patio furniture for a customer. I am a professional floor finisher doing hardwood, decks, garage floors, patio and driveways etc. If you have ever seen steel/iron outdoor furniture that rusts at the feet and constantly leaves rust spots on the ground, I have fixed this by cleaning with splash brand name metal prep (phosphoric acid based) from the home center (home depot paint dept) and then coating not with paint but with a specific commercial epoxy called seal krete HP 9100. Now on a job coming up its designer patio refinishing bit it isn't steel or iron, it's aluminum. I'll make a video and post a link when done.
Need window min/max information for application of next material Then what material can adhere Eg - 4 hours max, 72 hours max Minimum - wait 30min At what temp Before applying primer or topcoat Will an epoxy primer bite into it /adhere , then go with a finishing method from there of our choice
Im not painting an aircraft, but a tailgate made of aluminum on a 2008 ford expedition. Ford improperly prepared these and paint pealed off. In patches. After the alumiprep 33 and alodine 1201, is there any special primer that should be used? Such as a self etching primer? Should i use a sealer, like epoxy primer, after that ?
Yes. It says So on the bottle. You get cancer. And you should take care of the waste. What he is doing is not oké. May suggest you read the product sheet. It’s a henkel product. It’s easy to find.
I'd definitely suggest not applying it like it's being shown - Alodine has hydrofluoric and chromic acid in it. Wear gloves on BOTH hands and put some safety glasses on.
totally agree about your comment about PPE including full face respirator if spraying it. Its ridiculously bad for the person and the environment also, dont know where these guys are rinsing the solution, perhaps the environment in America doesnt matter. Any clean water works, but the trick is to get the aluminium oxide coating off, keep it wet and apply when its still wet. I dont see any wheat coloured hue from correct application in this video and i think its only a representation of correct application rather than a really good application. But meh, it might be. From my experience as an AC refinisher it takes a bit more elbow grease than that and you know when youve applied it correctly, but if youre a home enthusiast learning from you tube, you might Alodine an entire AC and not ever know that what youve just done has achieved absolutely nothing.
We have a similar closed system sump for the same types of chemicals. Otherwise if its done away from the hangar we use cut open drums to collect the wash off and pump or tip them into the old stripper containers for re badging for disposal. Works ok. Ive seen it too, where a stone chip on the LE from the prop or a nick in the paint has happened round a rivet and you can get an air duster and huge sheets come off in swages lol then you have to feather it out and do the whole nine yards...real pain If theyre not getting the wheat colored coating tbh, its probably best to just forget a poor alodine application and sand it with 240 and be done with it, AC primer will stick to that no problem. Id rather have paint on a 240 surface than a polished scotchy surface anyday, but thats just me.
Acid under the panels and around rivets is horrible and will corrode the panels. Not a fan of acid. Especially when you drench it. Scuff and clean with alcohol and use an aluminum primer to make it adhere. Then paint it.
Wow! No gloves! No eye protection? Rinsing the leftover acid right on to the ground. I think you should read the fine print on safely using this very costic product!
Hi. Thanks for the info. I’m painting my old Southbend 10L lathe. It’s cast iron and I’m using an epoxy primer before the top coat. But some of the panels are aluminum. So I’m wondering what I need to do prior to the epoxy primer. Should I use both the products you mention? I’ve always heard that you should alodine an aluminum surface prior to painting, but what about the first product? Both are expensive and if I can use something like an acid I already have it would save me some money. Your comments are appreciated. Thanks, Paul
my friend made replacement parts for Chuck Cheese characters.......he dipped everything in Alodine, to give his parts that gold finish, so when the customer tried to get him to replace a defective part, he cold say.....I did not make those.....pretty cool huh...great video......Paul in Orlando
Question, I have an aluminum "Birdcage" if you will that will be INSIDE the aircraft after cover. Could I clean the aluminum and then alodine it as you show and leave it bare as it will be under the covering?
When you are installing the alumiprep and rinsing the area, what do you do about the water and alumiprep that washes into the open areas of the plane and gets inside?
@@evgi2329 well if a battery leaks acid you get corrosion. The acid causes huge problems with adhesion. The way these people soaks the acid on the plane the acid creeps behind the panels and the corrosion begins. This whole this is a supplier sales pitch that does more harm the good. An aluminum primer is a much better choice for good adhesion!
This method is.for real airplane only or any aluminium stuff. I need to paint aluminium aircraft models and I'm wondering how to do it. First need to find rhe way how to take off 40 year old paint from it tham how to paint again. I am reading there are some chemicals which remove easily but I'll try with that. I was thinking air sanding method too😮
Good video. Two questions: 1. Should this process be done immediately before painting ie the same day? How long can you wait before prime/paint? 2. How safe is this for the immediate environment as the applications drip off the airplane and later hosed off? Should this be performed somewhere where the runoff can be contained like anti ice fluid? Just wondering. thanks for positng
+guintube I believe that once BOTH steps have been performed, there is no rush for painting. Of course, wash aircraft prior to painting if needed. Chemical/environmental issues: contact manufacturer for answers. Thanks
Best practice is to do this prep on the individual parts prior to assembly. That's how Beech, Cessna, Boeing, Lockheed and a host of others do this on their factory assembly lines.
guintube The reason is that Alodined surfaces are hygroscopic. I work for an aircraft manufacturer and we tried some simple tests to see if we could extend the period of time between chem and paint (to try and ease production demands), but ended up with adhesion issues on parts over 3 days old (failed wet tape adhesion and dry impact tests). If you have a humidity-free area, it can be done I would think.
I paint planes for a living a couple of tips use spray bottles with a fine mist flush all etch and alidine from nozzles with clear water for storage always use red scotchbrite to scrub the etch into the aluminium then rinse thoroughly after about 5 min then completely dry using towels compressed air and if message let air dry the next step will not stick to a wet surface now mist on the alidine keeping it wet for a bit the time will vary depending on how thorough the first step was done so I suggest trying a small test see a first to figure out the time you are looking for a light golden brown color to long well burn. And it will be dark if this happens restart process with etch
@@dawinner777 you are correct if acid is left behind in these areas and that is why it is of the utmost importance to rinse thoroughly the acid is already watered down and what water you add to it pretty much deactivates it but yes take a special care to make sure that the seams are rinsed very well also the answer that is made for aluminum it's sold as aluminum prep it cleans the pores of the aluminum free of sanding or Scotch braiding dust which can also lead to corrosion if left behind under the paint and most definitely will lead to paint blistering
Those old Cessnas were mostly alclad so no Alodine. It is a different method of achieving corrosion resistance. And they will also rot out like swiss cheese.
How do you remove great epoxy primer off aluminium , I have used many different kind of paint stripper , the paint comes off no problems but the green primer on my Cessna 172Just barely wants to come off , what is the best way
Have you tried aircraft paint remover (example: Rust-Oleum Part # 255448)? It's very strong so be careful where you apply it as it will eat through plastics too. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003Z8XUAQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@@hnacion you can't buy the good stuff anymore. Obama's EPA banned methylene Chloride the active ingredient. You have to have a business license to get it. Benco b15 or b17 will work well
I believe you can acid wash (first step) to clean the aluminum, but do not perform the chrome conversion (2nd step) if you want to polish. That 2nd step chemically alters the surface of the aluminum and am not sure that will shine up... BUT, that would be worth trying as an experiment....!
There is another form of alodine that can and is used for external aluminum surfaces that are not going to be painted as a corrosion inhibitor. It's Alodine 1500-1501. Example is the bright shiny surfaces for instance on American Airlines birds. You get the protective layer without the bronze staining. (Former commercial airlines mechanic)...Also keep that alodine away from steel fasteners...Bad juju. Commercial FBO's dont even bother with the aluma prep acid... Red scotch brite to prep the surface, wash with water until you get a clean sheen...Then alodine 1200 & Neutralize with water...Then green FR primer, then your external paint. Also pay attention to the grain of the material when scotch briting a surface for 1500 prep. Alodine is not necessarily a paint prep. It is a corrosion inhibitor by applying the chromic coating to the alclad. Scotch brite alone while rinsing the surface for a clean sheen without beading will do the trick. The scotch brite roughens the surface just enough to give the paint something to stick to. We are talking microns here. Paint does not apply well to any perfectly slick surface. If the water beads the surface is too slick and/or there are still contaminants on the metal...neither is acceptable.
@@swtnlnly I realize this is 5 year old post but.. Is the Alodine 1500-1501 the final step? Apply and rinse? Or apply with scotchbrite? Then rinse. Thanks. Losing the bronze tint is what I'm after on an aluminum Jeep part.
I disagree, applying alodine to assemblies allows the chemicals to get in between the sheets and the rivets reducing the strength. Alodine does not add, it subtracts. Mechanical prep and acid cleaning is ok, then prime.
I always used red scotchbrite when i acid etched, it works a lot better. Also used a folded rag to apply alodine. Former aircraft mechanic here.
Very helpful thanks. Maybe you can shed some experienced light on method I am thinking of doing. I am painting a very shiny, very smooth 3020 or 3002 1/8" aluminum tool box I had made. My plan is to first use an automotive degreaser and cleaner prep. Rinse. Etch with red scotch Brite pad. Then apply apple cider vinegar, rinse. Wipe dry. Apply 2-3 coats Moeller Zinc Chromate primer. Let dry over night. Sand with 600 grit wet dry sand paper. Then apply automotive ( spray gun application) and 2 coats clear sealer. Doesn't follow video. But it's a small project . From your experience is my method going to achieve adhesion to aluminum. ? Changes ? Thanks
@@perryberens618 i would wipe it down with lacquer thinner sand with 400 grit wipe it down with lacquer thinner again and then prime it
This method is.for real airplane only or any aluminium stuff. I need to paint aluminium aircraft models and I'm wondering how to do it. First need to find rhe way how to take off 40 year old paint from it tham how to paint again. I am reading there are some chemicals which remove easily but I'll try with that. I was thinking air sanding method too😮
Alumiprep isn't necssary. You can use a white scotchbrite pad and water to scrub the aluminum until water doesn't bead on the surface anymore. Then apply the alodine. The key is clean until water sheets not beads on the suface.
Nice job! One thing to add. If you see a water break it is a sign of a dirty area. Rub again with the scotch bright and rinse again.
Very helpful video. Good product info to use and steps to use them information. Reading comments. I think the word "instructional video" is useful. It was a demonstration of what to use and how to use it. The comments are common sense for anyone who works with chemicals. Sure he could have added three minutes explaining everything about chemicals from drinking to discard clothing (optional) however every product has warning and use instructions on the label. Always read the labels. Again thanks for the instructional video.
I’ve got a lot of aluminum to paint on my humvee and it’s brushguard and I’m going to check into these products. Thanks.
Exellent video. However, if pressed for time change the playback speed to 1.5x or perhaps 1.75x.
Is there any environmental concern when you wash off these products? Do you need to “Capture” the run off? Thanks for the good video
I’m baffled how it is legal to rinse hexavalent chromium into the ground??
Thank you . For the video I had problems with painting a aluminum . I will try your technique
Just gonna say, you are playing fast and loose with hexavalent chromium. But, whatever...right?
Good information. Thank you. And I would agree with another post...hydrofluoric acid is rough on your hands....gets under your finger nails and eats the soft tissue.
Pump up sprayer perhaps?
Scrub the new Ali with Deoxidine and nylon brush or scotchbrite until you have a water wet break free flow, dry the Alocrom 1200 starting from the bottom up, you're after a tea colour on the Ali, test the Alocrom for adhesion if all OK epoxy prime. Top coat within 24 hours or moisture is absorbed. That's what is was taught as a young military aircraft painter 36 years ago.
How do you remove the acid from inside of the fuselage? I cringed when I saw you brushing the first solution on as it seeps in to the cracks and crannies including the rudder exit holes and angle on the bottom of the fuselage. That little garden hose action surely did nothing to remove that acid from inside of the fuse.
Thankfully, Stewart Systems has much friendlier water borne products available.
When I painted airplanes, we would clean the surface with a scotch Brite and lacquer thinner, then apply the acid, rinse, then the alodine.the after dry, prime.
What type of primer did y’all use?
@@sheabourne9428probably an enamel containing zinc chromate
I am going to use this technique to refinish some designer aluminum patio furniture for a customer. I am a professional floor finisher doing hardwood, decks, garage floors, patio and driveways etc. If you have ever seen steel/iron outdoor furniture that rusts at the feet and constantly leaves rust spots on the ground, I have fixed this by cleaning with splash brand name metal prep (phosphoric acid based) from the home center (home depot paint dept) and then coating not with paint but with a specific commercial epoxy called seal krete HP 9100. Now on a job coming up its designer patio refinishing bit it isn't steel or iron, it's aluminum. I'll make a video and post a link when done.
Need window min/max information for application of next material
Then what material can adhere
Eg - 4 hours max, 72 hours max
Minimum - wait 30min
At what temp
Before applying primer or topcoat
Will an epoxy primer bite into it /adhere , then go with a finishing method from there of our choice
Im not painting an aircraft, but a tailgate made of aluminum on a 2008 ford expedition. Ford improperly prepared these and paint pealed off. In patches.
After the alumiprep 33 and alodine 1201, is there any special primer that should be used? Such as a self etching primer? Should i use a sealer, like epoxy primer, after that ?
Isn't alodine toxic?
Yes. It says So on the bottle. You get cancer. And you should take care of the waste. What he is doing is not oké. May suggest you read the product sheet. It’s a henkel product. It’s easy to find.
How did they paint the ww2 warbirds that matte finish?
isn't that Alodine is carcinogenic with hexavalent chromium and those drippings on the floor are actually going to be dangerous?
I'd definitely suggest not applying it like it's being shown - Alodine has hydrofluoric and chromic acid in it. Wear gloves on BOTH hands and put some safety glasses on.
Agreed, and I've never seen alodine rinsed with anything but deionized water. hopefully the garden hose is clean
totally agree about your comment about PPE including full face respirator if spraying it.
Its ridiculously bad for the person and the environment also, dont know where these guys are rinsing the solution, perhaps the environment in America doesnt matter.
Any clean water works, but the trick is to get the aluminium oxide coating off, keep it wet and apply when its still wet. I dont see any wheat coloured hue from correct application in this video and i think its only a representation of correct application rather than a really good application. But meh, it might be.
From my experience as an AC refinisher it takes a bit more elbow grease than that and you know when youve applied it correctly, but if youre a home enthusiast learning from you tube, you might Alodine an entire AC and not ever know that what youve just done has achieved absolutely nothing.
We have a similar closed system sump for the same types of chemicals. Otherwise if its done away from the hangar we use cut open drums to collect the wash off and pump or tip them into the old stripper containers for re badging for disposal. Works ok.
Ive seen it too, where a stone chip on the LE from the prop or a nick in the paint has happened round a rivet and you can get an air duster and huge sheets come off in swages lol then you have to feather it out and do the whole nine yards...real pain
If theyre not getting the wheat colored coating tbh, its probably best to just forget a poor alodine application and sand it with 240 and be done with it, AC primer will stick to that no problem. Id rather have paint on a 240 surface than a polished scotchy surface anyday, but thats just me.
I did it naked just because I didn't want my clothes damaged. Not really. I just about fell out my chair when he was not using protection.
Acid under the panels and around rivets is horrible and will corrode the panels. Not a fan of acid. Especially when you drench it. Scuff and clean with alcohol and use an aluminum primer to make it adhere. Then paint it.
Hi teacher
It's a very beautiful thing
thank you very much
Wow! No gloves! No eye protection? Rinsing the leftover acid right on to the ground. I think you should read the fine print on safely using this very costic product!
Hi. How do we paint an old Piper Comanche when the paint is extremely faded?
strip, acid etch, alodine, prime and paint
Hi. Thanks for the info. I’m painting my old Southbend 10L lathe. It’s cast iron and I’m using an epoxy primer before the top coat. But some of the panels are aluminum. So I’m wondering what I need to do prior to the epoxy primer. Should I use both the products you mention? I’ve always heard that you should alodine an aluminum surface prior to painting, but what about the first product? Both are expensive and if I can use something like an acid I already have it would save me some money.
Your comments are appreciated.
Thanks,
Paul
I wouldn't worry about Ali panels on a lathe just bring them in with the cast iron. Abrade, degrease and epoxy prime.
is alumiprep necessary? I thought you just apply alodine. ;(
Scotch Brite.and water, till water-break free?
Great in for. Got an 1978 painted midstream Argos to repaint. Any ideas?
Yeah, paint it.
do I need to sand the surface or etch it before ?
my friend made replacement parts for Chuck Cheese characters.......he dipped everything in Alodine,
to give his parts that gold finish, so when the customer tried to get him to replace a defective part,
he cold say.....I did not make those.....pretty cool huh...great video......Paul in Orlando
Hi Paul, I wouldn’t touch that metal after being treated
Very much appreciate your videos... Wondering if you would do a video on the preparation of magnesium (as in wheels) for paint... Thanks!
wheels made either by forged aluminum or cast aluminum or steel. not magnesium
Is this stuff similar to the sharkhide products?
Question, I have an aluminum "Birdcage" if you will that will be INSIDE the aircraft after cover. Could I clean the aluminum and then alodine it as you show and leave it bare as it will be under the covering?
When you are installing the alumiprep and rinsing the area, what do you do about the water and alumiprep that washes into the open areas of the plane and gets inside?
I never thought acid prep was worth it. The acid caused more problems then what it was worth.
@@dawinner777 hi, which problems do you mean?
@@evgi2329 What would concern me is the steel mandrels in the rivets rusting and if you don't get it out from between the skins, corrosion occurring.
@@evgi2329 well if a battery leaks acid you get corrosion. The acid causes huge problems with adhesion. The way these people soaks the acid on the plane the acid creeps behind the panels and the corrosion begins. This whole this is a supplier sales pitch that does more harm the good. An aluminum primer is a much better choice for good adhesion!
This method is.for real airplane only or any aluminium stuff. I need to paint aluminium aircraft models and I'm wondering how to do it. First need to find rhe way how to take off 40 year old paint from it tham how to paint again. I am reading there are some chemicals which remove easily but I'll try with that. I was thinking air sanding method too😮
If your area is strictly aluminium, strip it.
Should take off the inspection cover and do it separate.
Good video. Two questions: 1. Should this process be done immediately before painting ie the same day? How long can you wait before prime/paint? 2. How safe is this for the immediate environment as the applications drip off the airplane and later hosed off? Should this be performed somewhere where the runoff can be contained like anti ice fluid? Just wondering. thanks for positng
+guintube I believe that once BOTH steps have been performed, there is no rush for painting. Of course, wash aircraft prior to painting if needed. Chemical/environmental issues: contact manufacturer for answers. Thanks
Best practice is to do this prep on the individual parts prior to assembly. That's how Beech, Cessna, Boeing, Lockheed and a host of others do this on their factory assembly lines.
Henkel (Bonderite) recommends no sooner than 12 hours after Alodine and no later than 72 hours after it.
Interesting...thanks.
guintube The reason is that Alodined surfaces are hygroscopic. I work for an aircraft manufacturer and we tried some simple tests to see if we could extend the period of time between chem and paint (to try and ease production demands), but ended up with adhesion issues on parts over 3 days old (failed wet tape adhesion and dry impact tests). If you have a humidity-free area, it can be done I would think.
Do you use a spray paint or dye?
excellent tutorial
Pro tip:
Set playback speed to 2x
set the play speed to 2 and it's still too slow. Otherwise, super awesome video.
dumb question, will this work on a aluminum snowmobile tunnel?
yes, it is possible. Please be aware that the alloy might be different, so different treatment times might be necessary.
Is alodine acid?
2k good etch primer on alum direct works great and last more years then I can count so why deal with this ??
...when yus say always wet do you mean water, or the chemicals ???
Y Ben-Ad I’d assume they mean the chemical otherwise you’ll rinse off the stuff that’s working for you.
Great video!
Great video. Great information and NO RAMBLING! Q: No sanding needed?
I paint planes for a living a couple of tips use spray bottles with a fine mist flush all etch and alidine from nozzles with clear water for storage always use red scotchbrite to scrub the etch into the aluminium then rinse thoroughly after about 5 min then completely dry using towels compressed air and if message let air dry the next step will not stick to a wet surface now mist on the alidine keeping it wet for a bit the time will vary depending on how thorough the first step was done so I suggest trying a small test see a first to figure out the time you are looking for a light golden brown color to long well burn. And it will be dark if this happens restart process with etch
@@rickybobby9005 acid makes corrosion happen! Especially between panels!
@@dawinner777 you are correct if acid is left behind in these areas and that is why it is of the utmost importance to rinse thoroughly the acid is already watered down and what water you add to it pretty much deactivates it but yes take a special care to make sure that the seams are rinsed very well also the answer that is made for aluminum it's sold as aluminum prep it cleans the pores of the aluminum free of sanding or Scotch braiding dust which can also lead to corrosion if left behind under the paint and most definitely will lead to paint blistering
at boeing we would spray our alodine on, leave it on dont rinse and bake at 250 degrees
after applying alodine - put the 737 in oven @ 250 - holy crap - tha'ts a big oven!!!
Can you paint an aluminum aircraft with automotive paint?
Many aircraft owners do. You should consider adding some flex agent to the paint. Other than that, it's a similar process.
The Alodine is not strictly necessary. I had great results just etching and using and epoxy primer.
It's necessary. You'll find out in less than a year.
+Mikishots :-)
Mikishots
Oh? Like those 50+ year old Cessnas with original paint? Alodine is not necessary, but it certainly won't hurt anything.
Those old Cessnas were mostly alclad so no Alodine. It is a different method of achieving corrosion resistance. And they will also rot out like swiss cheese.
How do you remove great epoxy primer off aluminium , I have used many different kind of paint stripper , the paint comes off no problems but the green primer on my Cessna 172Just barely wants to come off , what is the best way
Have you tried aircraft paint remover (example: Rust-Oleum Part # 255448)? It's very strong so be careful where you apply it as it will eat through plastics too.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003Z8XUAQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Keep reapplyin striper several times and scrap with a plastic scraper it will finally give in and be baer aluminum.keep reaplying fresh striper also.
@@hnacion you can't buy the good stuff anymore. Obama's EPA banned methylene Chloride the active ingredient. You have to have a business license to get it. Benco b15 or b17 will work well
Very good
how do you prepare the alodyne?
Unscrew the cap on the jug.
great vid , is their anything else I could use instead of Alumiprep 33 to clean before 1021
we used a 1:1 water and vinegar solution. Not sure if that's popular or up to standards but we did
Aluminum or Aluminium?
@@gwebster6600 . Correct Answer. 😀😀
Hi Jon... Can his be used to clean up aluminum prior to just polishing the aluminum as well as painting.
I believe you can acid wash (first step) to clean the aluminum, but do not perform the chrome conversion (2nd step) if you want to polish. That 2nd step chemically alters the surface of the aluminum and am not sure that will shine up... BUT, that would be worth trying as an experiment....!
There is another form of alodine that can and is used for external aluminum surfaces that are not going to be painted as a corrosion inhibitor. It's Alodine 1500-1501. Example is the bright shiny surfaces for instance on American Airlines birds. You get the protective layer without the bronze staining. (Former commercial airlines mechanic)...Also keep that alodine away from steel fasteners...Bad juju. Commercial FBO's dont even bother with the aluma prep acid... Red scotch brite to prep the surface, wash with water until you get a clean sheen...Then alodine 1200 & Neutralize with water...Then green FR primer, then your external paint. Also pay attention to the grain of the material when scotch briting a surface for 1500 prep.
Alodine is not necessarily a paint prep. It is a corrosion inhibitor by applying the chromic coating to the alclad. Scotch brite alone while rinsing the surface for a clean sheen without beading will do the trick. The scotch brite roughens the surface just enough to give the paint something to stick to. We are talking microns here. Paint does not apply well to any perfectly slick surface. If the water beads the surface is too slick and/or there are still contaminants on the metal...neither is acceptable.
Thanks for that info!
@@swtnlnly I realize this is 5 year old post but.. Is the Alodine 1500-1501 the final step? Apply and rinse? Or apply with scotchbrite? Then rinse. Thanks. Losing the bronze tint is what I'm after on an aluminum Jeep part.
I disagree, applying alodine to assemblies allows the chemicals to get in between the sheets and the rivets reducing the strength. Alodine does not add, it subtracts. Mechanical prep and acid cleaning is ok, then prime.
COOL CHANNEL !
Nice.
Light wet sand paper
Hope all those chemicals you washed off didn’t end up in a drain and then a river.😭😭😭🐳🐟🐟🐟🐬🐬🥰
You should really be wearing safety glasses - this is a corrosive - according to the SDS for alumiprep 33 -
Wow! No wonder are lakes, streams and oceans are so polluted....
Yes, are lakes and streams our so polluted. Some of them our, and that's are fault.
Toooooop
Airstream argosy. Computer changed
i want to paint my A380 today. but I don't have to because I'm using Flight simulator.
Do you use a spray paint or dye?
Check the product sheet. Only use with brush. Also it can cause cancer as it is written in the bottel. See the video.
@@62mog KK Thank you