Brother you are a breath of fresh air.. first video ive seen when a man explains stuff without invilving his personal life and bs.. i appreciate you my brother.. had my bike running in 10 minutes.. im suscribed thanks again
Anyone who's interested, with a Daytona Twin Tec ignition module, you DON'T need to use a Cam position sensor anymore on the early T.C. models. It's also one of the best upgrades you can do. T.S. RACING New suscriber brother.
Love it. I can't tell you how many guys have a no crank or no start problem. Ask for advice, but haven't put a multi meter on it to do basic diagnostic. Great video. Thanks.
You just saved me some time and money with your thorough walkthrough on testing the crank position sensor. Thanks! Gained another sub from your solid work
Great video! How did you determine which wires to back probe when testing the cam position sensor I’m asking because I have a 2000 ultra, fuel injected, that I’d like to do the same test however, when I test the wires you mentioned in the video which I believe were black and green, I get no reading. When I test the red and the green wires, I get readings within the limits you discuss in the video i.e. ignition on engine off I get 2.5 V and when I crank the engine, I get 1.5 V I’m assuming there are different color schemes for different bikes, but looking at my shop manual, I can’t tell why you selected the wires you did. Any insight you could offer would be much appreciated.
Yes, different models and different year's can have different color schemes. I should have said that in the vid. Open your service manual to the crank no spark diagnostic flow chart, follow it to were you start checking the cam sensor. When it tells you to check the two pins on the breakout box look for those numbers on the ignition module connector. The color coming out of that connection is the one you back probe.
Thanks, I am still trying to figure out exactly what you tested. I have three wires coming out of my cam position sensor. Two of the wires are shared with other devices, which leads me to believe they are the positive and negative for the power supply. The third wire goes directly from the cam sensor to the ECM. Out of those three wires, the positive, the neutral, and the signal, which ones do I test?
You sir, put out great content. Very informative videos, my question is, what scan tool do you recommend, that doesn't break the bank, that can troubleshoot codes ? I don't mind going down the line to check and eliminate the possibilities but sometimes i just one to pin point the problem and fix it, without to much down time. Anyways, keep up the good work.👍
Thanks for the compliment. If it were me I would strongly consider getting a obd2 scanner for your cars. than try out the adapter cable they sale that way your killing two birds with on stone.
Good video, but I have a couple questions I hope you can answer. Can I unplug the crank sensor, and check it by using the starter, I assume so, but I'd like to confirm, also when this sensor is bad does it cut the fire, and fuel? I bought mine from a brother that had it sitting 4 years, it ran fine for 7 to 800 miles then I thought I ran out of gas, and possibly did, but the 2nd time I had just filled up, and after about 5 miles it seemed to be running out of gas, but it started a couple more times and went short distances. I don't hear the fuel pump as well as I did before. My last Harley was a 1976 shovel, this 08 dyna is a whole other animal. I appreciate any help you can give.
Yes you can check it that way. Turn you multimeter to a.c. and crank the engine it should read 1 volt a.c. minimum. The sensor counts the teeth on the flywheel then when it gets to the gap it tells the ecm to fire the spark. probably what you were experiencing when it seem to run out of gas was it starting to fail. Very cool you had a 76, back in the 90's when I built my first bike that's what it was. Learned alot building that thing. If you need anything else let me know.
Great video man, it helped a lot! My question is, how do you test the bank over sensor ?? I have and 04 Dyna so it doesn’t have a cam sensor. I tested the coil. I’m getting 12v’s on the center wire but no resistance on the out side left wire like you showed. I tested the crank sensor and I’m getting a little over 5v’s when I turn the engine over and .9 ohms when I test for resistance so I’m assuming the crank sensor is good right ? Thanks in advance!
If you have voltage to the coil than the bank angle sensor is good. Sounds like your crank sensor is good to. Are you getting no spark from both cylinders if so I would be leaning towards ignition module. Typically if the coil was bad you would drop only one cylinder. It's rare to see both sets of windings fail but it is possible. Have you checked resistance on the coil.
I’ve been having issues with burning up cam sensors for the past 5 years. The local HD dealership first said that it was the ECM, replaced that and cam sensor, since then I’ve burnt up 3 more cam sensors and replaced the rear wiring harness , crank sensor, speed sensor and the stator. I finally ditched the Screaming Eagle tuner and bought dynatec 2000tc 88 p ignition and new coils. I hope everybody’s had better luck than me
For CPS resistance measurement, you state "1 Ohm" in the video but it looks like your meter is reading 1kOhms at 8:05 - should the resistance be 1kOhm?
Thankyou most interesting - I had spark and now no spark, this could be it. As well starter switch not working but I can jump the solenoid at the starter relay. When I turn the motor I have abnormal fuel going into front cylinder and going out exhaust.
@@DeathProofProductions I was spinning the motor checking the spark plug for spark and a lot of gas vapour coming out the both but front one a lot and the exhaust muffler had gas running out of it
remember that when your checking for spark even though you dont have the plugs in on injected bikes they still are shooting fuel in the cylinder thats not getting burned .
Similar issue with my buds 06 softail. First ride out this season & left him stranded with no spark. He changed out his coil, plugs & wires & last night, changed out his crank sensor as well. He's stumped on location about cam sensor you talk about?? stumbled across your video while searching possible cause, since everything else has been checked or replaced including all connectors cleaned .
@@DeathProofProductions no he didn't yet. I told him to check wiring connector under front cylinder exhaust pipe since the pipes are a new add on, maybe. Wires or plug connector was melted or pinched. Pipe runs along lower frame where wires are as well.
Where is the other end of the alligator clip connected? 02 sportster no spark, got as far as checking and bypassing angle sensor but not sure how to test for the other sensors
Sorry for delay been driving back from Florida. most of the time it goes to a ground but in certain situations you connect it to one of the other terminals.
1999 fxdwg carburetor model...cam timing sensor shows 4.90 vdc and 1.8-7.5 vdc while cranking. Bike had no spark. New coil pack, New crank sensor and BAS tested bad so I did a jumper wire...I have spark but not consistently.
If all your sensors test out and you have intermittent spark I would be leaning towards the module. Or possibly a short in the kill switch or the wire connectors in the ignition wiring.
Checking this out because I’m trying to get info about these sensors. BUT, I want to ask you about converting to carburetor from the Mag Marelli EFI. Do you have any experience with this ?
Your gonna have to change to a carburetor e.c.m. I can't remember if the m.m. has the same plug for the e.c.m. as the carb e.c.m. or not, it's been a long time since I messed with on of those. You may have to do a little wiring but I can't remember.
It probably is bad, if it's a older bike it's good insurance to replace them anyway so your not on the road when they shit the bed. Is yours one of the early twincams with the cam sensor.
Have a 2007 fxdb. Had the positive terminal melt after a long ride. Replaced the battery. Now no spark no fuel pump. Engine light flashes and have U1016 code for tssm. Replaced crank sensor. New plugs, relays and fuel pump. Fp3 wouldn’t let me in to check codes threw the app. Or try a new map. I sent it out to get checked and seemed fine. Wondering if the battery surged and fired the ecm/tssm…? Might try eBay for new ecm and tssm….. any thoughts?
2000 heritage , I have 12.93 volts with ignition turned off going to coil. Ignition turned on I have 0.3. Bike still starts up, but will shut off once up to operating temps. I have no resistance to the pin you checked going to coil. Any idea?
@@DeathProofProductions Its ok, and thankyou. I had leads on meter on backwards. But I’m still showing no resistance while cranking on that outer pin. Bike starts up and runs but it shuts off when it gets hot
I replaced the Crank position sensor, battery, and ignition coil. Still having crank no start issues. I followed the exact procedure you just did now I’m wondering if it’s the cam timing sensor I think it’s called? Is this possible? Thanks
@@DeathProofProductionsthank you hopefully it solves it been going crazy trying to figure it out. Just to clarify it’d be the sensor you pointed to at 6:30 of the video right? I have a 2000 Harley Davidson dyna FXDS Conv.
@@DeathProofProductionsdoing a follow up I’m still having issues crank no start I replaced every sensor except for the bank angle sensor I bypassed it with a jumper wire between the green and black still nothing. I’m stumped I’ve gone through the procedure numerous times now I’m wondering if it’s the ECU??
My 2001 Road King is getting no spark. Coil and plugs, new regulator and crank sensor. Throwing a d08sEt code. Nobody has been able to give me any ideas so far as to where to go from here. I’m wondering if it could be the bank angle sensor. Any advice you could give me would be awesome.
Sorry for delayed response been tied up working on a buddys truck. It's under your seat on the right side of the frame it is housed in the turn signal module.
Can the crank sensor cause only one spark plug failure on a vtwin Harley 2004 Fatboy, front pot fires, rear has no spark, replaced coil, leads, plugs...still no spark on rear?
No the crank sensor works or it doesn't . You probably have a short in the wire from the ecm to the rear spark plug windings in the coil. Unplug it from the coil and check continuity from the plug to the ecm. If it's good and the connectors are clean I would bet it's a internal fault in the ecm.
@@DeathProofProductions Just a note my 04 is carburated and Ive done the diagnostics code P-S-SP-t and with the P...it read.... no r SP.... what would they mean?
I have a 98 Harley Electra glide ultra. My plug that goes to the coil is not getting power with the ignition on at all. That mean that whole wiring harness is bad
@@DeathProofProductionsI’m not sure I haven’t tested that. I just figured it worked because when it’s off the fuel pump and a few other things won’t kick on till it’s turned on
I'm having the same problem just did all the test and found the crank sensor is bad and now I have fire but I checked the cam sensor like you said and it seems to test bad also but I have fire now does that mean it's bad two
Sometimes they can test just out of range and still be putting out spark. But there on there last leg. If your gonna be traviling any distance with it at that age I would replace both. It's cheaper than a tow truck bill
I'm having same issue 1999 fxdwg carb model, crank no start. I checked the crank sensor about 1.000kohm then cam sensor sometimes got 5v sometimes gone. Some weird here the bike can have the backfire when ignition on without push start button. Any advice?
I got a 2001 Harley Ultra that just stopped running and I have no spark. I checked the connector going to the coil and have no power on the center post, but when I crank it over while checking the connector pins there I get around 12v, but not constant. Is there supposed to be 12v constant at that center pin, which plugs into the coil?
@@DeathProofProductions I did change the crank sensor, but no change, was going to change the cam sensor next, but was hoping to maybe find an answer to something other than that
Was going to change the cam sensor, but from what I can see it doesn't have one and according to a lot on here it never did in that year. It is a Magneti Marelli System so I really don't know.@@DeathProofProductions
That is what I was starting to think also. My next question then is, can I put keyed 12v to the coil and see if I get spark then, I think that would confirm it all.@@DeathProofProductions
Thanks a lot this helped me out so much. I got my late grandpa’s bike that had been sitting and not started for 8 years and got it started for the first time today.
So i got an interesting one, I've done tested all the sensors and they all check out. The secondaries on the coil arent reading any ohms, so i suspect its no good. But whats interesting is you can crank the engine over with no spark as soon as the start button is released (with ignition still on) the spark plug will spark several times. What could cause this? There cant be any signal being sent as the crank isnt rotating and sending a signal to the ignition control module. Im lost here, I typically work on trucks and cars. But my neighbor asked me to fix his bike. Any help appreciated!
That is a odd one. The only thing i can think of is the primary windings must be building voltage then releasing it all at once when engine stops. Makes me wonder if there is a fault in the ecm but could be that the coils bad and causing it to happen. I can say in almost thirty years I have never seen that.
@@DeathProofProductions It is really strange. It would have to be further back from the coil I think, because the coil would only discharge once right? Whereas in this case it's like it's "queuing" sparks until the engine is no longer being cranked. Well thank you for giving her a think, I'll keep on troubleshooting.
@@DTexUS76 I'm having this issue exactly on a 2004 road glide coil is good ?also tried another coil, crank sensor is good but replaced with a brand new one from dealer anyways, checked most every wire for ground and 12volts looked at starter button and kill switch? all looks good motor only turns over with switch in run position, no codes up checking all codes, key fob is working as it should, I've had wiring issues in the past as well as a bad thundermax computer I swamped for a stock ECU and a power commander 5 I also just bought a known good used complete harness off a parted out bike and swapped that on my bike still the same! new harness was same O.E. part numbers as old and seen a video of that bike running great before being parted out? if I roll over starter and look for spark I do see the tach show a 2-300 rpm while cranking over and after I let off starter button sometime I get a week spark after I let off starter button? I was now thinking ECU again? or Security system??? any idea what was wrong with yours? anyone else have a idea?
@@DeathProofProductions I'm not sure what it was, finally got it started yesterday. Did a few different things and did it quick as it isn't my bike, but I would have liked to have known what it was. The coil was replaced and the cam position sensor was eliminated. So something there did it.
I tested the components as guided. The cps shows 1200 ohms which I believe means its bad. Im not getting 12 volts on the center terminal at the coil connector/ yel/green wire that runs from a relay at times and the relay doesn’t click. What would be the source of that issue or is the cps causing it?
Check to see if the there is 12 volts at the ignition fuse with key on and kill switch on. Also is the bike turning over. And what model and year is it.
It 2000 road king classic fuel injected. It turns over good. Ignition fuse battery voltage across it. May or not start at times but will definitely shut off once gets warmed up. CPS showing 1200 ohms consistently last couple days. Can’t hear fuel pump prime now when turning ignition on. Could hear the fuel pump prime a day or so ago.
Sorry for delay I'm still learning about how to do this comment thing. Have you figured it out. Your fuel pump should always prime. Do you have pressure when you disconnect the line from tank.
@@DeathProofProductions I replaced the crank sensor and discovered a loose ignition switch wire due to faulty connector (terminal lock broken). Had ignition switch, connector and bag lock kit installed. Picked it up from shop and rode great to work 30 minutes down bypass highway. Stalled and cut off three times on the way home. It was about 89 degrees at 5pm that day. Engine lamp was flashing kinda fast but no codes. Took it back to shop for mechanic to keep digging. That was last Saturday. Hasn’t been able to duplicate it so far. Is this typical of bad stator and does this model 2000 RK has bank angle sensor? I heard some mention of that.
No the evo sportster used a integrated ignition in the nosecone of the cam cover and a voes switch on the intake. If the coil is good I would head to the voes first. Checking the coil is basicly the same as the way I checked mine.
On later models the meters probe can't get to the connector. You have to insert a small jumper wire on the red and green terminal with ignition on and u will get 12 volts the colors can vary by year. The ecm receives power after the injectors,coil and sensors are energized. The coil is magnetized by 12volts to the primary windings and they magnetize the secondary. The crank sensor tells the ecm to interrupt the volts to the primary that causes the secondary to release energy to the spark plug.
That's correct I said the ecm gets power after the coil. The pcm sends system power to ecm and the sensors that's what I posted last. I didn't say the ecm powers the coil. Look if you ride then you want to help riders. At least I do. So if you got knowledge and I got some let's help people God knows the riding industry is almost dead. So it needs people like us .so let's help them together and anybody else that has experience needs to chime in. If not we will be riding alone because young people will not follow us.
Brother you are a breath of fresh air.. first video ive seen when a man explains stuff without invilving his personal life and bs.. i appreciate you my brother.. had my bike running in 10 minutes.. im suscribed thanks again
Anyone who's interested, with a Daytona Twin Tec ignition module, you DON'T need to use a Cam position sensor anymore on the early T.C. models.
It's also one of the best upgrades you can do.
T.S. RACING
New suscriber brother.
So Old School! Great to see a video that goes down to the component level troubleshooting.Throw out the Parts cannon and get a good Volt ohm meter!!
Thanks really appreciate it.
Love it. I can't tell you how many guys have a no crank or no start problem. Ask for advice, but haven't put a multi meter on it to do basic diagnostic. Great video. Thanks.
You just saved me some time and money with your thorough walkthrough on testing the crank position sensor. Thanks! Gained another sub from your solid work
Great instruction by the way. Like the way you go in depth and put it layman terms. I’m a subscriber now!
Great video helped me to diagnose my bad crank position sensor
Glade we could help, thanks for the compliment.
I'd love to see how to actually diagnose the coil pack on one of these TC88 Dyna's. Thanks for the lesson, mine is probably the crank sensor as well.
Thats a good idea i might do that for the next video.
Did you do this video yet for the coil?@@DeathProofProductions
,,,,,,great presentation,,,,,,you speak my harley language.................thanks......
Fixed thanks bro / crankshaft sensor 🤘
Glade to help.
Thank you
For the fantastic video
Great video! How did you determine which wires to back probe when testing the cam position sensor I’m asking because I have a 2000 ultra, fuel injected, that I’d like to do the same test however, when I test the wires you mentioned in the video which I believe were black and green, I get no reading. When I test the red and the green wires, I get readings within the limits you discuss in the video i.e. ignition on engine off I get 2.5 V and when I crank the engine, I get 1.5 V I’m assuming there are different color schemes for different bikes, but looking at my shop manual, I can’t tell why you selected the wires you did. Any insight you could offer would be much appreciated.
Yes, different models and different year's can have different color schemes. I should have said that in the vid. Open your service manual to the crank no spark diagnostic flow chart, follow it to were you start checking the cam sensor. When it tells you to check the two pins on the breakout box look for those numbers on the ignition module connector. The color coming out of that connection is the one you back probe.
Thanks, I am still trying to figure out exactly what you tested. I have three wires coming out of my cam position sensor. Two of the wires are shared with other devices, which leads me to believe they are the positive and negative for the power supply. The third wire goes directly from the cam sensor to the ECM. Out of those three wires, the positive, the neutral, and the signal, which ones do I test?
The one going to the ecm and the neutral, do you have the connector together.
thanks, that worked. I took the connector off and then plugged the wires in so that I could probe the wires easier
You sir, put out great content. Very informative videos, my question is, what scan tool do you recommend, that doesn't break the bank, that can troubleshoot codes ? I don't mind going down the line to check and eliminate the possibilities but sometimes i just one to pin point the problem and fix it, without to much down time. Anyways, keep up the good work.👍
Thanks for the compliment. If it were me I would strongly consider getting a obd2 scanner for your cars. than try out the adapter cable they sale that way your killing two birds with on stone.
Nice job explaining
Thanks
Good video, but I have a couple questions I hope you can answer. Can I unplug the crank sensor, and check it by using the starter, I assume so, but I'd like to confirm, also when this sensor is bad does it cut the fire, and fuel? I bought mine from a brother that had it sitting 4 years, it ran fine for 7 to 800 miles then I thought I ran out of gas, and possibly did, but the 2nd time I had just filled up, and after about 5 miles it seemed to be running out of gas, but it started a couple more times and went short distances. I don't hear the fuel pump as well as I did before. My last Harley was a 1976 shovel, this 08 dyna is a whole other animal. I appreciate any help you can give.
Yes you can check it that way. Turn you multimeter to a.c. and crank the engine it should read 1 volt a.c. minimum. The sensor counts the teeth on the flywheel then when it gets to the gap it tells the ecm to fire the spark. probably what you were experiencing when it seem to run out of gas was it starting to fail. Very cool you had a 76, back in the 90's when I built my first bike that's what it was. Learned alot building that thing. If you need anything else let me know.
Great video man, it helped a lot! My question is, how do you test the bank over sensor ?? I have and 04 Dyna so it doesn’t have a cam sensor. I tested the coil. I’m getting 12v’s on the center wire but no resistance on the out side left wire like you showed. I tested the crank sensor and I’m getting a little over 5v’s when I turn the engine over and .9 ohms when I test for resistance so I’m assuming the crank sensor is good right ? Thanks in advance!
Excuse I meant to say bank angle sensor.
If you have voltage to the coil than the bank angle sensor is good. Sounds like your crank sensor is good to. Are you getting no spark from both cylinders if so I would be leaning towards ignition module. Typically if the coil was bad you would drop only one cylinder. It's rare to see both sets of windings fail but it is possible. Have you checked resistance on the coil.
@DeathProofProductions, sir you have saved my sanity. Sincerely, thank you so much!
EXCELLENT VIDEO !!!!!!!!
Thank you.
I’ve been having issues with burning up cam sensors for the past 5 years. The local HD dealership first said that it was the ECM, replaced that and cam sensor, since then I’ve burnt up 3 more cam sensors and replaced the rear wiring harness , crank sensor, speed sensor and the stator. I finally ditched the Screaming Eagle tuner and bought dynatec 2000tc 88 p ignition and new coils. I hope everybody’s had better luck than me
I bought a twin power ignition for my 2000 carb low rider and it does not have to have a cam sensor any more it does not read it if you disconected
For CPS resistance measurement, you state "1 Ohm" in the video but it looks like your meter is reading 1kOhms at 8:05 - should the resistance be 1kOhm?
Yes
great vidoe and help !
Glade to be of service
Any idea where to get cam sensor ? All the dealers around me are backordered
Have you checked ebay.
Thankyou most interesting - I had spark and now no spark, this could be it. As well starter switch not working but I can jump the solenoid at the starter relay. When I turn the motor I have abnormal fuel going into front cylinder and going out exhaust.
what do you mean about the fuel are you talking about gas coming out of the exhaust.
@@DeathProofProductions I was spinning the motor checking the spark plug for spark and a lot of gas vapour coming out the both but front one a lot and the exhaust muffler had gas running out of it
carburetor or injected
@@DeathProofProductions hey thankyou for your responses, it's injected Sportster xl1200c 2007 restoration
remember that when your checking for spark even though you dont have the plugs in on injected bikes they still are shooting fuel in the cylinder thats not getting burned .
Thanks for the video..
My crank sensor is 12.57 ohmes.. no spark of injector pulse..
Thanks for the compliment. Sorry for delayed response been covered up fixing my well so we could finally take shower. Have you already fixed the bike.
Similar issue with my buds 06 softail. First ride out this season & left him stranded with no spark. He changed out his coil, plugs & wires & last night, changed out his crank sensor as well. He's stumped on location about cam sensor you talk about?? stumbled across your video while searching possible cause, since everything else has been checked or replaced including all connectors cleaned .
The 06 doesnt have the cam sensor just the crank sensor. Did he get it running.
@@DeathProofProductions no he didn't yet. I told him to check wiring connector under front cylinder exhaust pipe since the pipes are a new add on, maybe. Wires or plug connector was melted or pinched. Pipe runs along lower frame where wires are as well.
Where is the other end of the alligator clip connected? 02 sportster no spark, got as far as checking and bypassing angle sensor but not sure how to test for the other sensors
Sorry for delay been driving back from Florida. most of the time it goes to a ground but in certain situations you connect it to one of the other terminals.
1999 fxdwg carburetor model...cam timing sensor shows 4.90 vdc and 1.8-7.5 vdc while cranking. Bike had no spark. New coil pack, New crank sensor and BAS tested bad so I did a jumper wire...I have spark but not consistently.
If all your sensors test out and you have intermittent spark I would be leaning towards the module. Or possibly a short in the kill switch or the wire connectors in the ignition wiring.
Checking this out because I’m trying to get info about these sensors. BUT, I want to ask you about converting to carburetor from the Mag Marelli EFI. Do you have any experience with this ?
Your gonna have to change to a carburetor e.c.m. I can't remember if the m.m. has the same plug for the e.c.m. as the carb e.c.m. or not, it's been a long time since I messed with on of those. You may have to do a little wiring but I can't remember.
Yea. It’s the 2 plug type. I have a pretty good handle on things, just curious on your take on it. Thanks !
Great job Man! Thanks
Great video 👍🏻
I checked crank sensor, no resistance, but when I crank it shows 2.8 volts. Is it good or not? Still no spark.
Sorry for delayed response been tied up traveling. Do you get 12 volts at the coil with ignition on.
@@DeathProofProductions yes, 12 volts at center, no resistance either side when cranking.
@@DeathProofProductions I’ve already order a new crank sensor. But if you have any other places I should check it would be greatly appreciated.
It probably is bad, if it's a older bike it's good insurance to replace them anyway so your not on the road when they shit the bed. Is yours one of the early twincams with the cam sensor.
@@DeathProofProductions yes, 2001 fxstd.
I try to back probe my girlfriend all the time but alot more than one ohm of resistance.
I have the same problem with my wife.
Have a 2007 fxdb. Had the positive terminal melt after a long ride. Replaced the battery. Now no spark no fuel pump. Engine light flashes and have U1016 code for tssm. Replaced crank sensor. New plugs, relays and fuel pump. Fp3 wouldn’t let me in to check codes threw the app. Or try a new map. I sent it out to get checked and seemed fine.
Wondering if the battery surged and fired the ecm/tssm…? Might try eBay for new ecm and tssm….. any thoughts?
Was the insulation melted any on the battery cable.
Thanks for posting
My wiring connector has 4 pins. Is one supposed to show power?
What year is your bike and are you referring to the coil plug.
2000 heritage , I have 12.93 volts with ignition turned off going to coil. Ignition turned on I have 0.3. Bike still starts up, but will shut off once up to operating temps. I have no resistance to the pin you checked going to coil. Any idea?
Sorry for delayed response. I'm leaning towards the ecm but let me do some figuring and I will get back to you.
@@DeathProofProductions Its ok, and thankyou. I had leads on meter on backwards. But I’m still showing no resistance while cranking on that outer pin. Bike starts up and runs but it shuts off when it gets hot
You shouldn't have voltage with ignition off.has any of the wiring been worked on recently, also is it a stock ignition module.
I replaced the Crank position sensor, battery, and ignition coil. Still having crank no start issues. I followed the exact procedure you just did now I’m wondering if it’s the cam timing sensor I think it’s called? Is this possible? Thanks
If your model has the cam sensor and it is faulty it can cause a no spark issue.
@@DeathProofProductionsthank you hopefully it solves it been going crazy trying to figure it out. Just to clarify it’d be the sensor you pointed to at 6:30 of the video right? I have a 2000 Harley Davidson dyna FXDS Conv.
It's the one in the cam cover.
@@DeathProofProductionsdoing a follow up I’m still having issues crank no start I replaced every sensor except for the bank angle sensor I bypassed it with a jumper wire between the green and black still nothing. I’m stumped I’ve gone through the procedure numerous times now I’m wondering if it’s the ECU??
I’ve checked fuses tested relays I mean you name it I’ve checked.
My 2001 Road King is getting no spark. Coil and plugs, new regulator and crank sensor. Throwing a d08sEt code. Nobody has been able to give me any ideas so far as to where to go from here. I’m wondering if it could be the bank angle sensor. Any advice you could give me would be awesome.
Do you have voltage going to the bank angle sensor.
Honestly I don’t know where to find the bank angle sensor and every time I ask someone they don’t know what to tell me
Sorry for delayed response been tied up working on a buddys truck. It's under your seat on the right side of the frame it is housed in the turn signal module.
What happens or what's the issue if when u check the center wire on the coil plug and you have 0-1 volt ? What's the next step
Check the fuse then check to see if the kill switch on the handlebars has 12 volts coming to it.
Can the crank sensor cause only one spark plug failure on a vtwin Harley 2004 Fatboy, front pot fires, rear has no spark, replaced coil, leads, plugs...still no spark on rear?
No the crank sensor works or it doesn't . You probably have a short in the wire from the ecm to the rear spark plug windings in the coil. Unplug it from the coil and check continuity from the plug to the ecm. If it's good and the connectors are clean I would bet it's a internal fault in the ecm.
@@DeathProofProductions Just a note my 04 is carburated and Ive done the diagnostics code P-S-SP-t and with the P...it read.... no r SP.... what would they mean?
Hey I'm not getting any ac from my crank position sensor when i crank it would that deem it no good also 2005 efi dyna
If your not getting a.c. volts than it's bad.
I have a 98 Harley Electra glide ultra. My plug that goes to the coil is not getting power with the ignition on at all. That mean that whole wiring harness is bad
Are you getting 12 volts to the kill switch on the handle bar.
@@DeathProofProductionsI’m not sure I haven’t tested that. I just figured it worked because when it’s off the fuel pump and a few other things won’t kick on till it’s turned on
You need to check and make sure voltage is coming to the e.c.m.. If it is check continuity of the wire from the e.c.m. to the coil.
Excellent 👍🏻🇺🇸🙏
I'm having the same problem just did all the test and found the crank sensor is bad and now I have fire but I checked the cam sensor like you said and it seems to test bad also but I have fire now does that mean it's bad two
Sorry the bikes a 2000 electra glide classic
Sometimes they can test just out of range and still be putting out spark. But there on there last leg. If your gonna be traviling any distance with it at that age I would replace both. It's cheaper than a tow truck bill
I'm having same issue 1999 fxdwg carb model, crank no start. I checked the crank sensor about 1.000kohm then cam sensor sometimes got 5v sometimes gone. Some weird here the bike can have the backfire when ignition on without push start button. Any advice?
You saying it backfires through the exhaust or carb. It kinda sounds like a carb issue.
@@DeathProofProductions through the exhaust, i saw it from rear/cyl 2 exhaust. i already replace new s&s crank sensor still no luck.
Checked crank sensor with ACV tester it show 4.7v while i push start button. Anyway, can BAS failure will shut off the ignition?
thanks you for this
My crank sensor on 2012 sportster has no ohms and when i pulled it out oil came out of it, is that normal? or do i have a bigger issue?
How much oil came out
@@DeathProofProductions It was sitting for about 3 weeks and about 1/4 of a quart came out before plugged it back up
U shouldn't have much come out. Check the dipstick see if it's low it may be sumping
I got a 2001 Harley Ultra that just stopped running and I have no spark. I checked the connector going to the coil and have no power on the center post, but when I crank it over while checking the connector pins there I get around 12v, but not constant. Is there supposed to be 12v constant at that center pin, which plugs into the coil?
Yes you should have 12 volts with ignition on and kill switch on. Have you tested the sensors.
@@DeathProofProductions I did change the crank sensor, but no change, was going to change the cam sensor next, but was hoping to maybe find an answer to something other than that
Was going to change the cam sensor, but from what I can see it doesn't have one and according to a lot on here it never did in that year. It is a Magneti Marelli System so I really don't know.@@DeathProofProductions
Sorry for delay been tied up. It sounds like you may have a ecm problem they don't usually go out but with what your describing it might just be.
That is what I was starting to think also. My next question then is, can I put keyed 12v to the coil and see if I get spark then, I think that would confirm it all.@@DeathProofProductions
Do you have to have the ignition turned on to check the ohms on the crankshaft sensor?
No not when checking the sensor.
Thanks a lot this helped me out so much. I got my late grandpa’s bike that had been sitting and not started for 8 years and got it started for the first time today.
So i got an interesting one, I've done tested all the sensors and they all check out. The secondaries on the coil arent reading any ohms, so i suspect its no good. But whats interesting is you can crank the engine over with no spark as soon as the start button is released (with ignition still on) the spark plug will spark several times. What could cause this? There cant be any signal being sent as the crank isnt rotating and sending a signal to the ignition control module. Im lost here, I typically work on trucks and cars. But my neighbor asked me to fix his bike. Any help appreciated!
That is a odd one. The only thing i can think of is the primary windings must be building voltage then releasing it all at once when engine stops. Makes me wonder if there is a fault in the ecm but could be that the coils bad and causing it to happen. I can say in almost thirty years I have never seen that.
@@DeathProofProductions It is really strange. It would have to be further back from the coil I think, because the coil would only discharge once right? Whereas in this case it's like it's "queuing" sparks until the engine is no longer being cranked. Well thank you for giving her a think, I'll keep on troubleshooting.
@@DTexUS76 I'm having this issue exactly on a 2004 road glide coil is good ?also tried another coil, crank sensor is good but replaced with a brand new one from dealer anyways, checked most every wire for ground and 12volts looked at starter button and kill switch? all looks good motor only turns over with switch in run position, no codes up checking all codes, key fob is working as it should, I've had wiring issues in the past as well as a bad thundermax computer I swamped for a stock ECU and a power commander 5 I also just bought a known good used complete harness off a parted out bike and swapped that on my bike still the same! new harness was same O.E. part numbers as old and seen a video of that bike running great before being parted out?
if I roll over starter and look for spark I do see the tach show a 2-300 rpm while cranking over and after I let off starter button sometime I get a week spark after I let off starter button? I was now thinking ECU again? or Security system??? any idea what was wrong with yours? anyone else have a idea?
I would lean towards security system. I have seen them produce very simular symptoms.
@@DeathProofProductions I'm not sure what it was, finally got it started yesterday. Did a few different things and did it quick as it isn't my bike, but I would have liked to have known what it was. The coil was replaced and the cam position sensor was eliminated. So something there did it.
What if you got twelve volts only withe the switch off when on nothing
your saying with the key off your getting 12 volts.
I tested the components as guided. The cps shows 1200 ohms which I believe means its bad. Im not getting 12 volts on the center terminal at the coil connector/ yel/green wire that runs from a relay at times and the relay doesn’t click. What would be the source of that issue or is the cps causing it?
Check to see if the there is 12 volts at the ignition fuse with key on and kill switch on. Also is the bike turning over. And what model and year is it.
It 2000 road king classic fuel injected. It turns over good. Ignition fuse battery voltage across it. May or not start at times but will definitely shut off once gets warmed up. CPS showing 1200 ohms consistently last couple days. Can’t hear fuel pump prime now when turning ignition on. Could hear the fuel pump prime a day or so ago.
Sorry for delay I'm still learning about how to do this comment thing. Have you figured it out. Your fuel pump should always prime. Do you have pressure when you disconnect the line from tank.
@@DeathProofProductions I replaced the crank sensor and discovered a loose ignition switch wire due to faulty connector (terminal lock broken). Had ignition switch, connector and bag lock kit installed. Picked it up from shop and rode great to work 30 minutes down bypass highway. Stalled and cut off three times on the way home. It was about 89 degrees at 5pm that day. Engine lamp was flashing kinda fast but no codes. Took it back to shop for mechanic to keep digging. That was last Saturday. Hasn’t been able to duplicate it so far. Is this typical of bad stator and does this model 2000 RK has bank angle sensor? I heard some mention of that.
@@stevenward525 You can see a bad stator immediately with a volt meter, does you king have a fairing ?
Is a 99 sportster 1200 close to the dyna im fighting crank no spark for weeks now and thank you for the videos
No the evo sportster used a integrated ignition in the nosecone of the cam cover and a voes switch on the intake. If the coil is good I would head to the voes first. Checking the coil is basicly the same as the way I checked mine.
Odometer doesnt work
Got 13v all the way to the spark plugs bjt still only crank no start
What year is your bike.
@@DeathProofProductions2000! Trying to find the connecrion to crank sensor but seems to be further back
@@DeathProofProductionsfound the crank sensor, where to put the earth cable on my measuring unit?
Just ground it to a bolt on the engine or frame.
@@DeathProofProductions got new battery and new crank sensor still norhing. Just turns over. Smell gas out of exhaust pipe. No spark
My harley doesn even get 12v to the coil
have you checked the fuse.
I bet you have guys bring their bikes to you all the time.
I'm so tied up nowadays with my restorations that I have to tell alot of guys I don't have the time to do it.
You are a very smart harley mech but you have 2 step up your BEER game 1 word IPA Semper Fi Gunny Lou
I actually was drinking slaughter pin i.p.a. last night. Bush is just my go to beer but I like to treat myself once a week to something different.
Later models will have no voltage to the coil....The ecm doesnt let the coil have any power 🍔
On later models the meters probe can't get to the connector. You have to insert a small jumper wire on the red and green terminal with ignition on and u will get 12 volts the colors can vary by year. The ecm receives power after the injectors,coil and sensors are energized. The coil is magnetized by 12volts to the primary windings and they magnetize the secondary. The crank sensor tells the ecm to interrupt the volts to the primary that causes the secondary to release energy to the spark plug.
@@DeathProofProductions I can get to the plug on later models with the crank sensor input shorted the Ecm does not power the primary coil.
That's correct I said the ecm gets power after the coil. The pcm sends system power to ecm and the sensors that's what I posted last. I didn't say the ecm powers the coil. Look if you ride then you want to help riders. At least I do. So if you got knowledge and I got some let's help people God knows the riding industry is almost dead. So it needs people like us .so let's help them together and anybody else that has experience needs to chime in. If not we will be riding alone because young people will not follow us.
You should probably mention what year bike you're working on because it matters.
That's a good idea I will put it in the title.