I like what you said about turning up the smell, you know there must be several people working on this idea. I think we’re only five or six years away from smell of vision. Oh nice to see you trying new things with the mill.
Those are some Beautiful shingles. They would last 100+ years. I would cut them, let them dry over the winter and finally dip them in preservatives, let dry then instal them. You have the best looking, longest lasting shingles. After instal, apply 2nd coat of preservatives with a pump up sprayer. Just Beautiful. Enjoy your Channel, THANK YOU for sharing‼️👍👍. Vinny 🇺🇸
Finally I could take a breath... Those were beautiful singles sir. Way back in 1980 we built our own log house, just outside of Monroe WA. I am reminded of the beautiful hand split cedar shakes I made for my shed and pump house. I'd found some old growth downed cedar logs on the property. We lived there for 20 years, and just a few years ago I returned and saw that those shakes were still good as new. Anyway, thanks for all the fun. best of luck figuring out the next phase of the shingle jig.
I learned the same lesson the same way you did. A good strong suction on the sawdust chute will solve the issue and keep those strings from clogging the mill. You will also need to remove the bars from inside the sawdust chute but be aware that those bars are put there to keep broken bands from coming out that way. And after you do all that, you will have to figure out a way to keep the dust collector unclogged. I wish you luck!
Thank you for sharing I really wanted to get a machine like yours I called Mexico for one but they said it’s taken three years to get one unbelievable but it is what it is so scratch that off my list but thank you for sharing your videos I really enjoy it
Seen a man do almost the same with great results. Instead of tilting side to side, he tilted forward and back. Had a setup with blocks in a row but manually inserted a shim under one end of each for a pass and removed for next pass.
Northwest Sawyer, glad to see the attention to Shake vs Shingles, most people haven't heard of "Shakels" split on one side and saw cut on the other. I think they were left over from the start and or end of the shingle blocks. My Dad was a shingle sawyer for 30 years so I grew up with that smell permeating everything! We are up on the Olympic Peninsula.
We use a tow behind 5hp gas powered leaf vac with 6" hose to remove chips from a 20" planer. It works fantastic and we leave it hitched up to the mower parked outside the shop. When it's full we dump the sawdust in our compost pile. Great suction and it has never clogged. Your sawdust looks a lot like the pine needles we vaccum during leaf clean season.
Greatings from Vermont. Great videos, keep them coming. I have a woodmizer siding shingle jig on my lt 35. Cuts cants 90 deg to yours without the chip problems. I added screws to all my hold down clamps after cants kept coming loose. Good luck with your jig.
Lee Snyder , second time WM. owner. I enjoyed your video, on shingle maker. I have been going to build one for years, now that I have retired, I will have the time. Ok, so you went the wrong direction. Still a good attempt. keep up the good work.
Hey buddy, all of us sawmillers have to stick together. I've got a hd40g24 and have been wanting to build a siding jig. I like yours and am planning on starting mine in a few weeks. Thanks for sharing.
Rad! Been really enjoying your channel. I have an LT15 here on the big island that Im starting out on and having a blast. When I get rained out I come inside and keep myself stoked watching your latest project. Great inspiration, wish we had cedar like that out here. Mahalo!
I have a cedar shingle gig that cut with the grain and it work wery good. My shingles are 18 inches long 1/2 inche at the but and 1/8 at the top.the design of your mill nake it easier for the sawdust beding to build up .
Howdy from Vancouver, BC - shake and shingle county. I think you have used your bevel siding jig. The bandsaw should be cutting across the grain, along the length of the board/cant. otherwise you will always get the cedar straw when cutting in the same direction of the grain. I believe the Wood-Mizer shingle jig lines up 3 or 4 blocks in a row lengthwise, allowing you to cut across the grain. The jig then drops the other end of the blocks to create the taper on all blocks at the same time. Traditional cedar shingle saws are circular and create an amazing quantity of straw. The newer bandsaw type shingle machines always cut end to end, across the grain, with no straw. I have some videos on UA-cam that show you the different processes. Please let me know if I can answer any questions for you. Keep up the good work!! Enjoy your Wood-Mizer!! I am envious! 😊
Thanks, Lloyd. I have seen the Wood-Mizer jig in action. I was trying to make something that could have a much higher production rate. Sawing with the grain is definitely not the answer but it was interesting to try. I have a new idea I’m working on. Stay tuned!
I have another idea to add to this. It requires a little rewiring of the controls of the sawmill. At the far end of the sawmill table set up a limit switch that will trigger the saw to lift and return. At the same time it will activate the log clamp to either return or lift the shingle trays. At the home position for the saw mill another limit switch will activate the saw to move forward to cut the shingles. Now it is fully automatic. Of course the depth of cut will also have to be automatic. When the last cut is made the machine will need a signal to return and stop. Automated cutting like this needs special precautions to avoid injuries, so that is something to keep in mind. I don't know how automated you want it to be. It would be safer to operate it by hand, but this is a possibility. It deffinatly needs to stop before reaching the fixture.
Normally you saw across the grain and get fine sawdust. This jig has the wood sitting in the other direction so you are sawing with the grain. That is what is causing the long shavings. Just turn the jig so you are cutting across the grain and it will work fine. Great jig. I used to make long shavings with my chain saw for making fire starter. Just saw a log with the grain.
Love the smell of cedar. My house had 40+ squares of shakes and I loved them and the look. However the insurance company demanded I remove them. I complied but I miss the look. But I have to admit I was always concerned about the fire hazard as was the insurance company.
Change your gig, instead of left and right, make it front to back. That way the grain is correct for the saw, Your mech would be more complex but the grain direction would match the blade.
I gasped at 5:45 when you cut through that block, the grain pattern was awesome. I agree about the smell of cedar, but be careful. I use to love to smell cedar after making a cut then over the years I would get a bad sinus infection from the cedar dust. Did a little research & found out the oil(s) in cedar, which is in the dust, is not good to breath. Now I have to be careful with all wood dust, developed a sensitivity. The sinus infection was like a bad head cold on steroids that lasted for a couple of weeks, which I call...not fun. May not be problem for you (yet) but just a heads up. Enjoying your channel.
When I used to make shakes, we would get small spots like pimples that itched but hurt to touch. They called it cedar poisoning. You prevented it by showering often. I could imagine what that would feel like in your sinuses. Watch the dust.
Hey Jason, I was going to post the same thought as Monnie Holt below. Cliff Day has a good point too about using a leaf blower if your compressor has trouble keeping up.
You may want to try just running without the blade doors. leave the small middle one on but take the two bigger ones off and see if it clears better.Combine that with a different blade and you may have it.
They do. It can cut 8 shingles per pass, is manually operated and costs around $12-$1,500. The one I’m working on will cut 24 per pass, uses the mill’s hydraulics and will cost around $150 to build.
If WoodMizer doesn't have a rip blade, you can make your own by taking the set out of all the teeth. If there is no set in any of the teeth, then the blade should rip just fine. Just an idea. You could try that.
I actually came up with a mass production shingle jig that would cross cut the shingles but I lost the frame in the wildfire last September. I plan to build a new one soon.
You have a bar right down the center with just a 1/4 wedge. Then all you have to do is pull the bar forward and cut the shingles as you would normally cut a board.
I believe there is such a blade as one of the other You Tuber had the same problem, when I saw the swarfe coming off was going to ask about a ripping blade cheers NZ good luck.
It is very in interesting to watch. Don't now much about wood working. Wondering what you do with the cedar chips? Is there someone who makes sachet packets of the cedar chips? They are great for making great smelling packets for closets and drawers. I'm in the middle of Kansas. If there is a shop nearby where you are they might be able to make some money selling cedar packets. I do fabric sewing and appreciate your precision in cutting and making the most of each cut Thanks for sharing.
Hello i would just us your clab board jig and then just cut the shingles to deferent sizes with a sliding miter saw you could make a lot shingles in a hurry that way i think thanks for posting your Great ideas
Hello do you have a blue print for your clab board rig you made for your woodmizer i would like to make one for my mill i under stand if you dont want to give it out thanks George
So it makes a lot of shavings. Sell that too. Weld up copies of that thing and sell them too! That thing is money! (Bit shallower angle needed. OR sell both versions! Shingle thickness, and shake thickness!)
@@NorthwestSawyer No joke- western red cedar shingles go for $485 a bundle here in New York State. a mere 25 square foot a bundle. Like about $5 per shingle.
Years ago, I dealt with a saw sharpening firm. The owner told me he was told a mill up Island was cutting a big log with a gang saw and one of the bladed blew up. They had hit a cannonball. Presumably shot by an early explorer 200 yrs ago or more. The tree had grown around it.
I didn't see this in the comments, so here goes... you want your can'ts at some angle, say between 30 & 60 degrees ( vertex at the operator side "opening" as you move against the direction of the blade) this will shorten the length of any spaghetti you make and also make it cross growth rings so that it's likely to shear itself. The problem then is geometry, but you are only dealing with 2 planes which bisect a 3rd, and there is an axis of rotation there someplace, it should be doable such that the lines of intersection all fall along that axis - then you will get the shingles that you want and saw kerf marks that angle across the surface but still go in the direction that water flows. Good luck - this thing has great promise
Thanks, Greg. You’ve put some thought into this. I’m actually drawing up something all together different that will achieve my goal of high production with simplicity. Stay tuned!
Those are some thick shingles, too bad for bird nest material. The last time i saw a shingle maker, it was using circular blades that produced great shingles and left behind saw dust. Changing your blade would probably correct the problem, noticed also that your jig was moving around a bit. Thanks for sharing.
Maybe if you’re close to your shop you can run the air hose out there and use high-pressure air to blow the sawdust off of the blade as soon as it comes out of the log, it might work it might not, but might be worth a try
just put an old foxtail brush above and below where the band goes into the machine after cutting.. deverts the noodles down.. and those noodles are a plus... great when dried out for fire starting material. I sew several bags a year to campers and wood heated homes
A rip blade with less teeth , and if it is possible to leave the guard off the, wheel. You should be right , the air flow created by the wheel will through the long chip out of the way. Very good idea, yes development takes time.
Hello, are you still working on your shingle jig? I think this is a great idea. I saw some good ideas about using different types of blades in the comment section, and I'm wondering if you have tried them yet. Your really great designs are very appealing because of your innovation to use the existing controls on your sawmill to articulate the cants the way you want too. Here is my idea. Your actuator movement is vertical and moves the entire length of the jig parallel to the long side of the saw mill. By using the same actuator to rotate a disc laterally you can then engage a series of vertical actuators that would lift one end of each shingle cant at the same time. Then you can cut as many shingles as your sawmill has capacity for lengthwise. You can put several cants next to each other, different widths--as long as they add up to width of your fixture or you can adjust each cant bracket to accommodate them. I think in this way you should be able to cut a lot more than 24 shingles at a time. They will be different widths or if you stick with one size cant bracket they will all be the same width--which should work fine. It might be more of an esthetic issue than practical one if you do it this way. I would like to know what you think about this. Thanks for your great projects and the instructions you provide with them. I have learned a lot from you. James
Thank you, James! I actually started building exactly what you’re describing right after this video. Multiple trays that could hold multiple cants. All actuated by cams. I haven’t finished it but I plan to before too much longer. I’ve been thinking of ways to simplify it to a point where it could be easily mass-produced.
@@NorthwestSawyer First, we need one tray running the length of the saw mill. It will hold the shingle/cant trays. I think if you make your shingle/cant trays adjustable or fixed that is going to lend itself to mass production. In this idea we are cutting the shingles lengthwise instead of widthwise. Consistently at one end or the other, I'm thinking of the front end--the first that the blade will cut, put dog ears on the shingle/cant trays that will rest inside the long fixed tray that holds all of the cant fixtures. I just think putting the ears at the front will make it more stable. You might need retention springs at the other end, but if that can be avoided it would be better. Drill 1/4" holes through the main tray that holds all of the cant trays and through the cant tray dog ears. Run a 1/4" steel rod, bent at one end and clipped at the other, through all four holes and now you have the hinge to work against to lift and lower the shingle trays. The actuator cam to lift the shingle tray should be at the free end of course. If the holes in the steel need to be slightly bigger for the rod that is okay. The resulting play isn't going to be that important. Over time the rods may need to be replaced, but that should be a long time. This set up also will accommodate the adjustable trays without a problem. What do you think? James
if you where to turn the wood 90deg and tip it from front to back you wouldn't get the long chips any more. i know with a chain saw if you cut with the grain the same thing happens.
The shingles look great , but lots of work . Use the shavings to make pets beds . Yeah, i'm serious. Lots of rich ladies out there that want to pamper their fifis.
Cooks sawmill sells a re-saw that can also be set up to cut shingles from blocks as fast as that poor guy on the tail end can grab'em . Depends on if you are planning on selling shingles .
An upright bandsaw dumps spaults and sawdust in conveyor. A drop trim saw . you need to cut 16" blocks then split with fro and mallet. You wasted 40% of log could have been used for low grade shingles like storage sheds. Go visit a real mill in grays harbor county.
An idea I had was make a rip blade from one of your old blades. Grind off say two teeth, leave two, repeat or two, remove four or something like that. Also set up a air hose at exit of blade from cut.
The problem with removing teeth is the set. The blade will wonder if you remove too many teeth in either the up or down set orientation. I’ve decided to redesign the jig all together.
Blade doesn't make the regular dust when cutting along the grain. I was cutting a log the same way, along the grain. I realized I was not having any sawdust when the blade came off from the wheels due to the amount of spaghetti like stuff (noodle) accumulated inside. Luckily, only the blade was damaged. As Lloyd Clefstad says, using a jig lifting front and back and cutting across the grain should be okay.
I am just getting ready to but LT35 , I have a lot of western red cedar to process. I was wondering if you have come up with a better setup for making shakes?
good idea, but isn't woodmizer's reason for the single post head, is to saw lap siding/shingles in the traditional orientation? Just by tilting the head one way, and then the other? maybe I'm wrong...I have a 4 post Timberking.
Geese! Thats nice! But the fur balls!! Say! why dont you turn the cant 90 degrees and cut cross grain?! Im sure you can figure out how to tip the cant the right amount needed! Then the saw dust will BE dust(as usual).
What about a power shear blade? Possibly attach to a log splitter. Sometimes the old fashioned way is best. I always appreciate people who try to do something a bit different to make things easier and faster.
Splitting shakes by had is actually a fairly quick method. I’m working on a new jig right now that should sound 100 shingles per minute. I still have a lot of designing and building to do but I’ll soon be putting it to the test.
Hey your siding jig was awesome man &I love estacada area my brother in law was teacher/coach there for years &sis in law just moved to Yakima anyway heavy duty siding man you could yield more bye thinner edge as mo st siding is? But shingle could you build jig that held kants in side bye side &3 or 4 at time tip up &down like your jig for lap ridding did &you would be cross cutting not ripping so shredded would be gone ? Great channel. Hillsboro here
I am working on a shingle jig that will hold 3-8” cants per tray and there are 8 trays. I haven’t had much time to spend on it lately. As for the firewood, I don’t sell any of it because I use it to heat my house. Thanks for watching!
Technically speaking, all our blades are ripping blades. I have an interesting thought on how to do it, I'll have to sketch it out and give you a link to it though or if there's a way for me to direct message / text it to you, that would work. Also have to figure out a way to lock the contraption into place during cuts, I noticed that it jerked the cants upwards on that first cut.
5tonfabrication@gmail.com is my email. I think the cants jumped because I hit it too hard. The second cut didn’t seem to move it. Shoot me a message. I’d love to take a look!
That was an excellent attempt. I’m late to this party so I suspect you’ve either worked it out or are getting close. Either way, excellent work. I always turn up the smell meter when I watch sawmill videos.
Thanks, buddy. I can say I tried. I’m working on a complete redesign as we speak. The siding part works great but the shingle jig will be a different unit all together it look like.
When ripping with a chainsaw, I’ve always been told to use a skip saw. This is a blade that skips a tooth in the pattern to break the cut or chip. Even a tooth set wider every 4-6 inches would produce the same effect of an interrupted cut. Your saw is clearing the chips or fibers well, but they are just too long. They need to be broke up.
I enjoy watching ur videos I am looking to get my own sawmill is there any other Mills besides woodmizer that are decent for starting up ?thanks for ur time and info
Don, my first mill was a Woodland Mills HM126. I have a video that shows it a little bit. I think it’s my third or fourth video. They’re out of Canada and it was a great starter mill for under $3k.
I was afraid this might be a problem. I've done a little bit of with the grain rolling with a chainsaw a few times and the kids thought it would be great for hamster bedding, but my chainsaw didn't like it so much. Hope you're able to overcome this issue. I like the general scope of your project. Perhaps a gas (or electric if you have a currant brush near the mill) powered leaf blower mounted behind the blade to clear the chips from the blade?
Could you just leave the saw cover open as you cut so the movement of the blade blows it out? I've been watching your channel for a while now and I love what you do. I'm really happy you are being noticed by others! Is was because of you that I found Bus Buckley. That's how it works! Are you planning to build a cover of some sort so you don't get cooked in the summer and soaked in the winter, working with your mill? 😀😀😀
Were you able to get most of the work completed before the high temperatures hit today? I did see an advertisement for saw blades that reduces the amount of shavings, I don't remember if wood-mizer sells it! Eventually you'll get all the bugs worked out and you'll have yourself a good fixture. I can't wait to see the completed video.
Love your videos especially how you show cutting more than just 4/4 wood. I have no doubt you will figure out the problem. 👍👍👍👍
Thanks ,Gaston. I’m trying to keep things interesting!
I like what you said about turning up the smell, you know there must be several people working on this idea. I think we’re only five or six years away from smell of vision. Oh nice to see you trying new things with the mill.
As Alexander Graham Bell once said, "Start with one idea and one idea leads to another." Thanks for the video.
Those are some Beautiful shingles. They would last 100+ years. I would cut them, let them dry over the winter and finally dip them in preservatives, let dry then instal them. You have the best looking, longest lasting shingles. After instal, apply 2nd coat of preservatives with a pump up sprayer. Just Beautiful. Enjoy your Channel, THANK YOU for sharing‼️👍👍. Vinny 🇺🇸
Thank you, Vinny. I need a little time to cut more shingles. I use a sealer that really looks nice on cedar called Sunfrog.
Finally I could take a breath... Those were beautiful singles sir. Way back in 1980 we built our own log house, just outside of Monroe WA. I am reminded of the beautiful hand split cedar shakes I made for my shed and pump house. I'd found some old growth downed cedar logs on the property. We lived there for 20 years, and just a few years ago I returned and saw that those shakes were still good as new. Anyway, thanks for all the fun. best of luck figuring out the next phase of the shingle jig.
Thanks, Jeff. I hope to have similar stories 20 years from now.
I learned the same lesson the same way you did. A good strong suction on the sawdust chute will solve the issue and keep those strings from clogging the mill. You will also need to remove the bars from inside the sawdust chute but be aware that those bars are put there to keep broken bands from coming out that way.
And after you do all that, you will have to figure out a way to keep the dust collector unclogged. I wish you luck!
Thank you, Darrel. Good advice!
Thank you for sharing I really wanted to get a machine like yours I called Mexico for one but they said it’s taken three years to get one unbelievable but it is what it is so scratch that off my list but thank you for sharing your videos I really enjoy it
Seen a man do almost the same with great results. Instead of tilting side to side, he tilted forward and back. Had a setup with blocks in a row but manually inserted a shim under one end of each for a pass and removed for next pass.
Nothing better than fresh cut western cedar, Great job man.
Thanks, Larry!
Northwest Sawyer, glad to see the attention to Shake vs Shingles, most people haven't heard of "Shakels" split on one side and saw cut on the other. I think they were left over from the start and or end of the shingle blocks. My Dad was a shingle sawyer for 30 years so I grew up with that smell permeating everything! We are up on the Olympic Peninsula.
We use a tow behind 5hp gas powered leaf vac with 6" hose to remove chips from a 20" planer. It works fantastic and we leave it hitched up to the mower parked outside the shop. When it's full we dump the sawdust in our compost pile. Great suction and it has never clogged. Your sawdust looks a lot like the pine needles we vaccum during leaf clean season.
It’s funny you say this. I just saw an ad last weekend for a big yard vac like that.
I check to see if you post every day, bought my LT-35 back in April, part 2 is here, your jig works perfectly
Posts like this make me want to get right back out there, Monnie! Thank you! I hope you’re using the heck out of that mill!
Greatings from Vermont. Great videos, keep them coming. I have a woodmizer siding shingle jig on my lt 35. Cuts cants 90 deg to yours without the chip problems. I added screws to all my hold down clamps after cants kept coming loose. Good luck with your jig.
Its all the interesting and great videos you do
Definitely the smell is very aromatic,by the way your shades are awesome
Great Idea, instead of rocking with and inline with the blade, turn your rocking gig 90 degrees to rock across the blade.
Should work splendidly.
WITH BEING NEW TO MILLING I APPRECIATE THE DETAILS YOU SHOW!!!
Thanks, Dwight. I’ve learned a ton from UA-camrs. I’m happy to share.
Lee Snyder , second time WM. owner.
I enjoyed your video, on shingle maker. I have been going to build one for years, now that I have retired, I will have the time.
Ok, so you went the wrong direction. Still a good attempt. keep up the good work.
Thanks, leo. I have a backup plan 😬
Awesome video, I’m from Aus, understand the heat issues. Tomorrow is another day. Hanging to see how you go.
Thanks, Marcus! It’s looking like a redesigns in order.
Hey buddy, all of us sawmillers have to stick together. I've got a hd40g24 and have been wanting to build a siding jig. I like yours and am planning on starting mine in a few weeks. Thanks for sharing.
Right on, Terry. Let us know how it’s going!
Outstanding video...gave me some inspiration for making shingles on my own sawmill...thanks
Awesome!
Rad! Been really enjoying your channel. I have an LT15 here on the big island that Im starting out on and having a blast. When I get rained out I come inside and keep myself stoked watching your latest project. Great inspiration, wish we had cedar like that out here. Mahalo!
I have a cedar shingle gig that cut with the grain and it work wery good. My shingles are 18 inches long 1/2 inche at the but and 1/8 at the top.the design of your mill nake it easier for the sawdust beding to build up .
Howdy from Vancouver, BC - shake and shingle county. I think you have used your bevel siding jig. The bandsaw should be cutting across the grain, along the length of the board/cant. otherwise you will always get the cedar straw when cutting in the same direction of the grain. I believe the Wood-Mizer shingle jig lines up 3 or 4 blocks in a row lengthwise, allowing you to cut across the grain. The jig then drops the other end of the blocks to create the taper on all blocks at the same time.
Traditional cedar shingle saws are circular and create an amazing quantity of straw. The newer bandsaw type shingle machines always cut end to end, across the grain, with no straw.
I have some videos on UA-cam that show you the different processes. Please let me know if I can answer any questions for you. Keep up the good work!! Enjoy your Wood-Mizer!! I am envious! 😊
Thanks, Lloyd. I have seen the Wood-Mizer jig in action. I was trying to make something that could have a much higher production rate. Sawing with the grain is definitely not the answer but it was interesting to try. I have a new idea I’m working on. Stay tuned!
He's but a simple neck tie farmer...
Turn your stock 90°. Cut the way the saw was built to.
I have another idea to add to this. It requires a little rewiring of the controls of the sawmill. At the far end of the sawmill table set up a limit switch that will trigger the saw to lift and return. At the same time it will activate the log clamp to either return or lift the shingle trays. At the home position for the saw mill another limit switch will activate the saw to move forward to cut the shingles. Now it is fully automatic. Of course the depth of cut will also have to be automatic. When the last cut is made the machine will need a signal to return and stop.
Automated cutting like this needs special precautions to avoid injuries, so that is something to keep in mind. I don't know how automated you want it to be. It would be safer to operate it by hand, but this is a possibility. It deffinatly needs to stop before reaching the fixture.
I think you can use the same gig! Since you’re use the hydraulic to raise it just turn cants around long ways and raise the end up and down
Normally you saw across the grain and get fine sawdust. This jig has the wood sitting in the other direction so you are sawing with the grain. That is what is causing the long shavings. Just turn the jig so you are cutting across the grain and it will work fine. Great jig. I used to make long shavings with my chain saw for making fire starter. Just saw a log with the grain.
Love the smell of cedar. My house had 40+ squares of shakes and I loved them and the look. However the insurance company demanded I remove them. I complied but I miss the look. But I have to admit I was always concerned about the fire hazard as was the insurance company.
They are definitely a good way to start a house fire.
I saved a few wheelbarrows of them for kindling for the airtight. Have to say was the best kindling ever.
Change your gig, instead of left and right, make it front to back. That way the grain is correct for the saw, Your mech would be more complex but the grain direction would match the blade.
I guess I am supposed to be impressed. But I guess everyone wants to be on UA-cam.Try going with the grain next time could help
I am totally impressed with that reply. Where did you get your edgamacation?I must know. I got mine at wal-mart
yes you have to cut length wise and not side ways. ive had over 50 years experience.
Shop vac? leave cover off mill?Air gun?sell bedding pet shop or chese cloth pocket air freshers(did this as a kid).Good luck.
I gasped at 5:45 when you cut through that block, the grain pattern was awesome. I agree about the smell of cedar, but be careful. I use to love to smell cedar after making a cut then over the years I would get a bad sinus infection from the cedar dust. Did a little research & found out the oil(s) in cedar, which is in the dust, is not good to breath. Now I have to be careful with all wood dust, developed a sensitivity. The sinus infection was like a bad head cold on steroids that lasted for a couple of weeks, which I call...not fun. May not be problem for you (yet) but just a heads up. Enjoying your channel.
Thanks, Rick. I never used to have any kind of allergies but as time goes on they kick my butt. Thanks for the advice!
When I used to make shakes, we would get small spots like pimples that itched but hurt to touch. They called it cedar poisoning. You prevented it by showering often. I could imagine what that would feel like in your sinuses. Watch the dust.
I was running quite a bit of water to keep the dust down. I’ve never had a reaction to cedar but have heard that could change.
Blade ideas sound better than vacuum!!
I use that stuff for fire starter. Thanks for the video!
I'm just afraid the fire it starts will be in my mill! ;-)
Hey Jason, I was going to post the same thought as Monnie Holt below. Cliff Day has a good point too about using a leaf blower if your compressor has trouble keeping up.
You may want to try just running without the blade doors. leave the small middle one on but take the two bigger ones off and see if it clears better.Combine that with a different blade and you may have it.
I think I’m going to try that today, Jake.
If I remember doesn't Wood Mizer have a jig for shingles. It would seem quicker and cheaper then trying to build your own.
They do. It can cut 8 shingles per pass, is manually operated and costs around $12-$1,500. The one I’m working on will cut 24 per pass, uses the mill’s hydraulics and will cost around $150 to build.
High pressure air to blow dross away.
Way-wipers that are used on lathes and shapers to keep chips out.
I’d keep using that cedar jig and just operate with the doors open and it should clear out.
If WoodMizer doesn't have a rip blade, you can make your own by taking the set out of all the teeth. If there is no set in any of the teeth, then the blade should rip just fine. Just an idea. You could try that.
I actually came up with a mass production shingle jig that would cross cut the shingles but I lost the frame in the wildfire last September. I plan to build a new one soon.
You have a bar right down the center with just a 1/4 wedge. Then all you have to do is pull the bar forward and cut the shingles as you would normally cut a board.
I believe there is such a blade as one of the other You Tuber had the same problem, when I saw the swarfe coming off was going to ask about a ripping blade cheers NZ good luck.
Thanks, barry! I’m going to look into that.
It is very in interesting to watch. Don't now much about wood working. Wondering what you do with the cedar chips? Is there someone who makes sachet packets of the cedar chips? They are great for making great smelling packets for closets and drawers. I'm in the middle of Kansas. If there is a shop nearby where you are they might be able to make some money selling cedar packets. I do fabric sewing and appreciate your precision in cutting and making the most of each cut Thanks for sharing.
Hello i would just us your clab board jig and then just cut the shingles to deferent sizes with a sliding miter saw you could make a lot shingles in a hurry that way i think thanks for posting your Great ideas
Thanks, George!
Hello do you have a blue print for your clab board rig you made for your woodmizer i would like to make one for my mill i under stand if you dont want to give it out thanks George
I don’t, George. I just built it to fit the mill. I’ll try to put one together but I’m really slammed this week.
So it makes a lot of shavings. Sell that too. Weld up copies of that thing and sell them too! That thing is money! (Bit shallower angle needed. OR sell both versions! Shingle thickness, and shake thickness!)
I never really perfected that jig. I should revisit it sometime.
@@NorthwestSawyer No joke- western red cedar shingles go for $485 a bundle here in New York State. a mere 25 square foot a bundle. Like about $5 per shingle.
@@paulbriggs3072 wow! I’d better get on that!
It's good to know there are issues from time to time. Not all wood is solid throughout.
You never know until you open it up!
Years ago, I dealt with a saw sharpening firm. The owner told me he was told a mill up Island was cutting a big log with a gang saw and one of the bladed blew up. They had hit a cannonball. Presumably shot by an early explorer 200 yrs ago or more. The tree had grown around it.
Wow! That would be something to see!
I didn't see this in the comments, so here goes... you want your can'ts at some angle, say between 30 & 60 degrees ( vertex at the operator side "opening" as you move against the direction of the blade) this will shorten the length of any spaghetti you make and also make it cross growth rings so that it's likely to shear itself.
The problem then is geometry, but you are only dealing with 2 planes which bisect a 3rd, and there is an axis of rotation there someplace, it should be doable such that the lines of intersection all fall along that axis - then you will get the shingles that you want and saw kerf marks that angle across the surface but still go in the direction that water flows.
Good luck - this thing has great promise
Thanks, Greg. You’ve put some thought into this. I’m actually drawing up something all together different that will achieve my goal of high production with simplicity. Stay tuned!
I will need you when i open my future hair salon, great
Have you seem my work in our salon?
Love your channel.nuff respect
Thanks, Bradley!
Wonderful video, my friend. Thank you for sharing
Those are some thick shingles, too bad for bird nest material. The last time i saw a shingle maker, it was using circular blades that produced great shingles and left behind saw dust. Changing your blade would probably correct the problem, noticed also that your jig was moving around a bit. Thanks for sharing.
I’m building a completely redesigned jig as we speak. It will cross-cut the grain and make shingles with the correct thickness and taper. Stay tuned!
Best looking tapersawn shakes I've seen on you tube yet. Did you ever have any luck with the other blades?
Thank you! I haven’t finished the project. I was watching some of my old film yesterday and hope to get back to it.
Maybe if you’re close to your shop you can run the air hose out there and use high-pressure air to blow the sawdust off of the blade as soon as it comes out of the log, it might work it might not, but might be worth a try
I thought about this. I don’t think my air compressor could keep up though.
a leaf blower might work
just put an old foxtail brush above and below where the band goes into the machine after cutting.. deverts the noodles down.. and those noodles are a plus... great when dried out for fire starting material. I sew several bags a year to campers and wood heated homes
also widen the guide space a few inches.. allow time for the noodles to fall
Well you could make a bundle selling those little cedar dresser drawer bags.
Hope you figure it out cause it sure gave some nice shingles.......keep it up..
Ya win some, ya lose some. I’m working on a complete redesign.
A rip blade with less teeth , and if it is possible to leave the guard off the,
wheel. You should be right , the air flow created by the wheel will through the long chip out of the way.
Very good idea, yes development takes time.
Thanks, Jeffrey! I’m getting a lot of great ideas. Time to get busy trying them.
Hello, are you still working on your shingle jig? I think this is a great idea. I saw some good ideas about using different types of blades in the comment section, and I'm wondering if you have tried them yet. Your really great designs are very appealing because of your innovation to use the existing controls on your sawmill to articulate the cants the way you want too. Here is my idea. Your actuator movement is vertical and moves the entire length of the jig parallel to the long side of the saw mill. By using the same actuator to rotate a disc laterally you can then engage a series of vertical actuators that would lift one end of each shingle cant at the same time. Then you can cut as many shingles as your sawmill has capacity for lengthwise. You can put several cants next to each other, different widths--as long as they add up to width of your fixture or you can adjust each cant bracket to accommodate them. I think in this way you should be able to cut a lot more than 24 shingles at a time. They will be different widths or if you stick with one size cant bracket they will all be the same width--which should work fine. It might be more of an esthetic issue than practical one if you do it this way. I would like to know what you think about this. Thanks for your great projects and the instructions you provide with them. I have learned a lot from you. James
Thank you, James! I actually started building exactly what you’re describing right after this video. Multiple trays that could hold multiple cants. All actuated by cams. I haven’t finished it but I plan to before too much longer. I’ve been thinking of ways to simplify it to a point where it could be easily mass-produced.
@@NorthwestSawyer
First, we need one tray running the length of the saw mill. It will hold the shingle/cant trays.
I think if you make your shingle/cant trays adjustable or fixed that is going to lend itself to mass production. In this idea we are cutting the shingles lengthwise instead of widthwise. Consistently at one end or the other, I'm thinking of the front end--the first that the blade will cut, put dog ears on the shingle/cant trays that will rest inside the long fixed tray that holds all of the cant fixtures. I just think putting the ears at the front will make it more stable. You might need retention springs at the other end, but if that can be avoided it would be better. Drill 1/4" holes through the main tray that holds all of the cant trays and through the cant tray dog ears. Run a 1/4" steel rod, bent at one end and clipped at the other, through all four holes and now you have the hinge to work against to lift and lower the shingle trays. The actuator cam to lift the shingle tray should be at the free end of course.
If the holes in the steel need to be slightly bigger for the rod that is okay. The resulting play isn't going to be that important. Over time the rods may need to be replaced, but that should be a long time. This set up also will accommodate the adjustable trays without a problem.
What do you think?
James
if you where to turn the wood 90deg and tip it from front to back you wouldn't get the long chips any more. i know with a chain saw if you cut with the grain the same thing happens.
Josaljo Won has very informative sawmilling videos.
Indeed. We comment back and forth other.
The shingles look great , but lots of work .
Use the shavings to make pets beds . Yeah, i'm serious. Lots of rich ladies out there that want to pamper their fifis.
Cooks sawmill sells a re-saw that can also be set up to cut shingles from blocks as fast as that poor guy on the tail end can grab'em . Depends on if you are planning on selling shingles .
An upright bandsaw dumps spaults and sawdust in conveyor. A drop trim saw . you need to cut 16" blocks then split with fro and mallet. You wasted 40% of log could have been used for low grade shingles like storage sheds. Go visit a real mill in grays harbor county.
An idea I had was make a rip blade from one of your old blades. Grind off say two teeth, leave two, repeat or two, remove four or something like that. Also set up a air hose at exit of blade from cut.
The problem with removing teeth is the set. The blade will wonder if you remove too many teeth in either the up or down set orientation. I’ve decided to redesign the jig all together.
Blade doesn't make the regular dust when cutting along the grain. I was cutting a log the same way, along the grain. I realized I was not having any sawdust when the blade came off from the wheels due to the amount of spaghetti like stuff (noodle) accumulated inside. Luckily, only the blade was damaged. As Lloyd Clefstad says, using a jig lifting front and back and cutting across the grain should be okay.
ok lie i said am no expert but love your stuff keep up the good work thanks joe
they solved the problem many, many years ago... cedar shingles are made by splitting the wood not sawing.
"Fall Line Ridge" gave you a kudos
We comment back and forth quite a bit.
I am just getting ready to but LT35 , I have a lot of western red cedar to process. I was wondering if you have come up with a better setup for making shakes?
Congratulations! I wish I had your cedar😬 I’ve come up with a design to make up to 24 shingles per pass but I haven’t built it yet.
Northwest Sawyer I look forward to seeing it in action 👍
good idea, but isn't woodmizer's reason for the single post head, is to saw lap siding/shingles in the traditional orientation?
Just by tilting the head one way, and then the other? maybe I'm wrong...I have a 4 post Timberking.
The saw head only cuts level. You have to change the orientation of the cant itself. My very first video was on my siding jig that does this.
Geese! Thats nice! But the fur balls!! Say! why dont you turn the cant 90 degrees and cut cross grain?! Im sure you can figure out how to tip the cant the right amount needed! Then the saw dust will BE dust(as usual).
I was trying to utilize my siding jig frame. I’ve started work on a new shingle jig that cuts across the grain as it should.
Great video 👍
Thanks, Daniel!
What about a power shear blade? Possibly attach to a log splitter. Sometimes the old fashioned way is best. I always appreciate people who try to do something a bit different to make things easier and faster.
Splitting shakes by had is actually a fairly quick method. I’m working on a new jig right now that should sound 100 shingles per minute. I still have a lot of designing and building to do but I’ll soon be putting it to the test.
If it's cheap it ain't easy. If it's easy it ain't cheap.
Unless you build it yourself 😬
N.S. looking good.
Shingles look great! I’m sure you can figure out a plan to help with the shavings
When I was a timber faller up the Clackamas River, I liked to cut cedar trees because they smelled real good.
I’m 6 miles from the upper Clackamas
Are you up Hillockburn Rd off of Hwy 211?
I am.
You could sell the "cedar straw" as bedding - another business on the side
awesome try
Hey your siding jig was awesome man &I love estacada area my brother in law was teacher/coach there for years &sis in law just moved to Yakima anyway heavy duty siding man you could yield more bye thinner edge as mo st siding is? But shingle could you build jig that held kants in side bye side &3 or 4 at time tip up &down like your jig for lap ridding did &you would be cross cutting not ripping so shredded would be gone ? Great channel. Hillsboro here
Do you sell off slab mill for fire wood
I am working on a shingle jig that will hold 3-8” cants per tray and there are 8 trays. I haven’t had much time to spend on it lately. As for the firewood, I don’t sell any of it because I use it to heat my house.
Thanks for watching!
We had the same thing happen we left the doors open on the blade it help about 85%
I may give that a try, Donald.
So probably a stupid question, but is that wood really wet or is the blade water cooled?
The water you’re seeing is being applied to the blade as it spins.
Northwest Sawyer Yeah, that makes sense. Is it a heat thing or to help cut down on dust?
Dodge Guy kind of both. It helps to lubricate the blade and the side effect is less dust flying around.
Technically speaking, all our blades are ripping blades. I have an interesting thought on how to do it, I'll have to sketch it out and give you a link to it though or if there's a way for me to direct message / text it to you, that would work. Also have to figure out a way to lock the contraption into place during cuts, I noticed that it jerked the cants upwards on that first cut.
5tonfabrication@gmail.com is my email. I think the cants jumped because I hit it too hard. The second cut didn’t seem to move it. Shoot me a message. I’d love to take a look!
sent good sir
nice job.....
OutoftheWoods is using a drywall scraper to quickly clean the sawdust. Inexpensive and very effective..
I’m a subscriber of Nathen’s. His scraper looks like it works well. I usually have a hose handy.
Ripping blade is the first thing that came to mind.
Nice channel, greetings from Poland ;)
Wow! Thanks for tuning in!
That was an excellent attempt. I’m late to this party so I suspect you’ve either worked it out or are getting close. Either way, excellent work.
I always turn up the smell meter when I watch sawmill videos.
Thanks, buddy. I can say I tried. I’m working on a complete redesign as we speak. The siding part works great but the shingle jig will be a different unit all together it look like.
Northwest Sawyer Looking forward to seeing it!
When ripping with a chainsaw, I’ve always been told to use a skip saw. This is a blade that skips a tooth in the pattern to break the cut or chip. Even a tooth set wider every 4-6 inches would produce the same effect of an interrupted cut. Your saw is clearing the chips or fibers well, but they are just too long. They need to be broke up.
I am no mill expert but would finer tooth blade work just asking
I think more teeth per inch of blade would probably plug up. The real only solution is to cut against the grain.
I enjoy watching ur videos I am looking to get my own sawmill is there any other Mills besides woodmizer that are decent for starting up ?thanks for ur time and info
Don, my first mill was a Woodland Mills HM126. I have a video that shows it a little bit. I think it’s my third or fourth video. They’re out of Canada and it was a great starter mill for under $3k.
@@NorthwestSawyer thank u for the quick reply I will check it out for sure take care
Maybe you can turn the cants and cut across the grain for less sawdust and bedding material.!!
Very nice piece of lumber.
Add vacuum on discharge tube similar to planer set up with larger recepticle??
Nice job. Maybe a battery operated blower to clean
I was afraid this might be a problem.
I've done a little bit of with the grain rolling with a chainsaw a few times and the kids thought it would be great for hamster bedding, but my chainsaw didn't like it so much.
Hope you're able to overcome this issue. I like the general scope of your project.
Perhaps a gas (or electric if you have a currant brush near the mill) powered leaf blower mounted behind the blade to clear the chips from the blade?
Have you followed up on this jig? I would love to see the video. Thanks for sharing.
I never did and then I lost the frame in the wildfire in 2020.
Oh that's hard news. I hope you rebuild it. I'm sorry that happened to you.
Hi from Ireland
Could you just leave the saw cover open as you cut so the movement of the blade blows it out? I've been watching your channel for a while now and I love what you do. I'm really happy you are being noticed by others! Is was because of you that I found Bus Buckley. That's how it works! Are you planning to build a cover of some sort so you don't get cooked in the summer and soaked in the winter, working with your mill? 😀😀😀
Thank you, Mr Geoffrey Smith! I do have a shed in the works. That’s part of why I want these shingles.
Were you able to get most of the work completed before the high temperatures hit today? I did see an advertisement for saw blades that reduces the amount of shavings, I don't remember if wood-mizer sells it! Eventually you'll get all the bugs worked out and you'll have yourself a good fixture. I can't wait to see the completed video.
It was 90 when I stopped. Got up to 100 today. Wood-Mizer is advertising a blade like you’re talking about. I may have to look into it.
Just as cutting a log, I think it would work great if you cut with the grain and not against it. An observation.
Cutting with the grain is giving me this problem.