I bought one that was slightly lifted at 2.5. The guytook really great care of engine and inside so i hope he did the upgrades properly. Def drive very good to me. You can feel a lil more of big bumps but seems to be normal. Love learning tho.
I’ve run a RC 4” lift for about a year now. And the 245/75R16 tire at max flex barely rubbed. I bumped up to 285/75R16’s and yea as long as I don’t turn. It’s fine, I currently have a Rusty’s 6.5” long arm coming in.
for Front shocks i personally like to utilize Bar pin eliminators .. to many times i've installed bar pins that came with aftermarket shocks an ended up getting alot clunking going over bumps becasue the shock would wiggle at the bottom on those pins Spring perch/bucket.. weld in replacement from iron rock but honestly i've had great sucess wth the Dorman Bolt on spring perchs they just drop right on over the existing perch
i had those dosch tech shocks on my wj and they broke every time i went out with them the bushing blew apart on the trail and i was literally riding down a basic trail and the actual shock shaft broke on me the shocks were so stiff though i didnt even notice until i got back to camp and noticed it leaning on my tire i drove the whole 500 miles home with only 3 shocks it actually rode better
When you replace the factory tierod links, it's always best just to replace the entire sleeve with it. Makes it WAYYY easier... with that said, the factory steering is shit, they will be toast in a year or so.
Haha a year? Mine lasted like 3 months then I went to Trailforged it’s really worth it! But yea I agree easier to buy a $40 Sleeve😂 Ross will be doing the TF upgrade after his trip I believe
@@kaydonhercules6983 When they get old, it becomes nearly impossible to unthread the ends, I even broke a vice trying to do it one time. This would affect getting an alignment also if the shop can't turn it.
How high can I take my 1999 wj , without doing anything else besides adding a longer coil spring to lift it.please feel free to answer anyone and everyone
I took springs from a 92 ford explorer which at the time had a 6 spring lift in it and cut on coil off the spring install them in the front of my wj moved the front to the back,the springs measure 3 inch exactly longer then my stock spring,well adding the weight of the motor when it was all said and done probably gave me two two and a half inches of lift which maxed out the shock in the front but not the back which makes sense because of the spring difference I think I might have to take another coil out of the front spring but all in all everything worked I'm very pleased the only thing I'm concerned now with is the track bar I added spacers under the shock mounts along with adding shock extenders on the top which really helped everything out I was able to bolt my shocks back up still had a little room for travel up and down so yeah now I'm in the hunt for a good track bar they don't make a stock when I could use out of another ride you know of do you
Bub, which driveshaft has the double cardan stock and might work on a 4.7, although I know that they are completely different lengths would you have an answer?
![АЛАУДИНОВ у Скабеевой: эти их ВСУ нас НЕ ДОГОНЯТ 😁 [Пародия]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/an0anqU4WGQ/mqdefault.jpg)
I'm a happy Iron Rock customer. Good to see that he went to long arms right away. Buy once, cry once.
I bought one that was slightly lifted at 2.5. The guytook really great care of engine and inside so i hope he did the upgrades properly. Def drive very good to me. You can feel a lil more of big bumps but seems to be normal. Love learning tho.
I’ve run a RC 4” lift for about a year now. And the 245/75R16 tire at max flex barely rubbed. I bumped up to 285/75R16’s and yea as long as I don’t turn. It’s fine, I currently have a Rusty’s 6.5” long arm coming in.
for Front shocks i personally like to utilize Bar pin eliminators .. to many times i've installed bar pins that came with aftermarket shocks an ended up getting alot clunking going over bumps becasue the shock would wiggle at the bottom on those pins
Spring perch/bucket.. weld in replacement from iron rock but honestly i've had great sucess wth the Dorman Bolt on spring perchs they just drop right on over the existing perch
Another wear and tear part I found is upper control arms! I found my driverside at top end was blown when I went to install my longarms!
Dannnnng 12.5k subscribers... you beastin now....
Great video najar very informative buddy
Just buy another tie rod and drag link. That extra $50 per rod is well worth avoiding the headache of trying to remove the ends from the rods.
i had those dosch tech shocks on my wj and they broke every time i went out with them the bushing blew apart on the trail and i was literally riding down a basic trail and the actual shock shaft broke on me the shocks were so stiff though i didnt even notice until i got back to camp and noticed it leaning on my tire i drove the whole 500 miles home with only 3 shocks it actually rode better
When you replace the factory tierod links, it's always best just to replace the entire sleeve with it. Makes it WAYYY easier... with that said, the factory steering is shit, they will be toast in a year or so.
what are the negatives of a bad sleeve ?
Haha a year? Mine lasted like 3 months then I went to Trailforged it’s really worth it! But yea I agree easier to buy a $40 Sleeve😂 Ross will be doing the TF upgrade after his trip I believe
@@kaydonhercules6983 When they get old, it becomes nearly impossible to unthread the ends, I even broke a vice trying to do it one time. This would affect getting an alignment also if the shop can't turn it.
CV joints look pretty shot as well.
How high can I take my 1999 wj , without doing anything else besides adding a longer coil spring to lift it.please feel free to answer anyone and everyone
A 2 inch lift will require Springs Shocks and an adjustable Trackbar
Any suggestions on where to get a good bar at
I took springs from a 92 ford explorer which at the time had a 6 spring lift in it and cut on coil off the spring install them in the front of my wj moved the front to the back,the springs measure 3 inch exactly longer then my stock spring,well adding the weight of the motor when it was all said and done probably gave me two two and a half inches of lift which maxed out the shock in the front but not the back which makes sense because of the spring difference I think I might have to take another coil out of the front spring but all in all everything worked I'm very pleased the only thing I'm concerned now with is the track bar I added spacers under the shock mounts along with adding shock extenders on the top which really helped everything out I was able to bolt my shocks back up still had a little room for travel up and down so yeah now I'm in the hunt for a good track bar they don't make a stock when I could use out of another ride you know of do you
Bub, which driveshaft has the double cardan stock and might work on a 4.7, although I know that they are completely different lengths would you have an answer?
I have a 99 wj 2wd I wanna lift do you have any recommendations for any lift kits
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ATOTO A6