I've been running a 4.6 stroker in my jeep for close to a decade now and I love it! Stock everything besides the 4.2 crank, rods, sealed power 677cp pistons .040 over, and injectors.
What year and model, and what about ecu tune solution? I have an 04 tj rubicon 5spd over 230k. Rebuilt most of front end, zj v8 tierod, reman coated calipers, rebuilt rear diff. I have 12shot injectors to put in when it gets warmer, they made a noticeable difference in terms of shorter cranking time to start in my old tj and ran better at low rpm. I never tracked mpg to see if they improved it though. Gotta fix some tub rust. If it makes over 300k i wouldnt hesitate to show it some love, stroker it and get a new ax15, the nv3500 is ok but 3rd gear syncro bad, i double clutch anyway. I researched doing a ls swap but for how these jeeps are driven, and the time and money to change a ton of things, the stroker makes way more sense. You dont need 400hp in a short wheelbase, slow shifting, top heavy 4x4. And could use new control arms and body mounts too, bushings are worn, and fix lockers not working. But i only paid 6300ish for it last november! It needed front end work though, the driver upper balljoint was wasted, had to trailer from connecticut. I dont see many tj's in massachusetts anymore, rust killed most of them. The frame design with no drain holes in the midsection is a big reason why. And you gotta undercoat these things and drill drain holes in frame. There was POUNDS of rust and scale i removed from my frame but it still is solid inside, i checked with inspection camera too. Needle scaled the whole underside when i got it, messy job but worth it. I wish you could buy a new samurai and tj, i think the jk and jl are meh, the underhood room is lacking, electronics have more problems, stupid things like integrated relays so if horn relay fails you cant replace just it, dont like the electronic throttle, has no feel, ruins a manual jk to me, and headrests are painfully angled forward like you are supposed to be a hunchback to drive them. The 3.6 is ok to me but still not as solid as 4.0, the oil cooler is an added point of failure and the inline 6 will always sound better. The frames and suspension are an improvement, but id love a narrower frame jk platform with a tj body, ax15, lockers, maybe a 4.0 stroked with a little turbo! That would be sick!
I'm running a 4.2 crank, 4.2 rods, factory 4.0 pistons (yes, stock bore, making it a 4.5 liter), a thinner MLS head gasket, and a .030 decked block. Yes, this makes the compression ratio quite high, but I'm able to get away with it on 87 octane for a few reasons. First, I polished the piston tops and the chambers. This may have added a tiny bit of volume, but not enough to matter. It did help reduce hotspots though. Second, the quench is extremely tight. If this thing revved more than the 5300 limiter I'd be at risk of the piston hitting the head at high RPMs. That tight quench leads to extremely good mixing in the chamber, which makes for an efficient burn. Finally, my dynamic compression ratio is a bit lower due to a more aggressive cam. It's not a race cam by any means, but even small increases in duration can make a big difference in dynamic compression. Been running this combo for about 5 years. It's a beast.
@@scotteric8711 my build kept all the same geometry as stock except for the deck height on the block. I had .030" cut off the deck height, so I ran stock 4.0 pushrods, with a shim under the rocker arm pivot to make up for the difference in deck height. I don't remember the exact height if those shims. I'm sure it was probably .020 or .025. I just marked the tip of the valve with layout fluid, then turned the motor over to get a mark on the valve tip. Then just shimmed until that mark ended up in the middle of the valve.
If you want a drop in piston Icon makes them for this exact combo. Don't be afraid to bore it this block is thick and strong. Loving my 4.7 stroker, my old gladiator weighs 6k.
@@watrousmark401 Keith Black makes the drop in piston for less. KB is hypereutectic, Icon is forged. Unless going to extremes, you don't benefit from forged.
I built my first motor, the 4.6 stroker, back in 2007. I went the 4.2 rod and Sealed Power 825cp30s route and snagged one of the last mopar 30 cams. It was in a 96 2-dr 2wd manual cherokee that I stripped out to 2700#. I blew through 3 auburn lsds. It lasted a dozen years and 120k. I have some eagle 6.150s waiting for a 4.8l build. . . P.S. get rid of that fan you got and get 1-2 ‘96 10-blades that have the same plug as the earlier ones. They move more air.
So many people whining about the Fram filter. If your oil is so contaminated that the brand of filter actually makes a difference, you have bigger problems. Yes, there are better filters, but it's not the quality of oil filter that kills engines. Ever. It's letting them leak until the oil pressure light comes on, and going 17,000 miles between oil changes. It'll be fine folks. Chill out.
Ok, bit of honesty here. I use Rockauto a lot, built several trucks with their parts. Have been working on a 1997 Jeep ZJ and decided to do the stroker as well. i cannot get the parts on Rockauto for reasons we are all familiar with at this point. Glad to see you guys can get the parts, advertising and sales working at its best lol. Anyway, bitterness aside, love the channel and love this build so far!
4.6 stroker , I know of a certain channel that did that in his 2000 xj for the extra power for doing recoveries ( Matt's off road recovery ) , with doing a twin exhaust that thing sounds good
@@moparedtn the banana became a super beast compared to what it used to be, but man that morrvair just looks way to good to say no to. When I first seen it in a thumb nail it was confusing with the grill, I had it mistaken for as a Cadillac at first
The oil pan on the 4.2 in my old '84 CJ7 had a thick steel plate welded to the bottom of it from the factory, I am surprised (but not that surprised) that the 4.2 XJ doesn't have that feature. The plate helped prevent debris from denting or puncturing the bottom of the pan while off-road. I also found it was quite useful when changing motor mounts: I could unbolt one motor mount, then place a jack under the oil pan. When the engine was jacked up this way it would tilt to one side and allow me to slip the old motor mount out. Once the new one was in, I could repeat the process on the other side. I really miss that old Jeep.
I have covered the side of my dad's tool box with Rock Auto magnets from my Mustang project over the last 6 months. 90% of my engine rebuild and 100% of the chasis is from Rock Auto.
I have to say that I did not think you could do a build that I would be more excited about, other than the Trail 50. But this is the "bee's knees". This is the type of thing that most people out there can do, will do. Don't take that the wrong way, I love seeing some of the high dollar builds, and the rare stuff, but this takes the cake for the "everyday" guy in his back yard. Cheers
Honestly , if you are going that far to build the engine you really should just make sure your deck height is true across the board anyhow. Do .025 with a cut and a .020(give or take) Cometic head gasket . You’ll be at 9.2 or 9.3 c/r and still safe from detonation.
I’m rebuilding an 85 Nissan 720 pickup engine, currently. It’s a 2.4 4 banger with California emissions (2 spark plugs per cylinder). I use a lot of the tips he mentions when seeking parts or prioritizing what to replace. I love these rebuild videos.
Dude...even .025" further in the hole will still raise your compression ratio from 8.8 to 9.5. You're forgetting that you're going to have a longer cylinder cramming air into about the same size combustion chamber. My 4.6 required premium due to this, but it was sooooo worth it. If you don't want to run premium though, you might want to find a way to reduce the compression ratio. If the piston were the same distance down the hole as the stock 4.0, that extra 0.6L would raise the compression ratio from 8.8 to 10.12. The cylinder being .025" further down the hole is only going to cost you .005 liters of combustion chamber volume. Combustion chamber volume will go from the stock .0758 L to .0807 L. This should give you a compression ratio of 9.5 due to the extra 0.6L of air you're compressing.
Ideally you'd use dished pistons that come up the the normal deck, that way you don't lose your squish (and the the associated reduced tendency to detonation). Not sure on the practicalities of that though.
@@AWIERD1 I sold my stroker, but am considering it in my new Jeep. Never considered meth in a NA engine, but not a bad idea, actually. It only knocks at low rpm/high throttle
To avoid the cost of premium I buy large containers of toluene for very cheap. It is a common solvent and one of the best additives available today for raising the octane rating and not losing any power. You can also use ethanol even adding E85 to the regular gas when you fill up is a common technique and by far the cheapest because it's a combination of the two cheapest fuels at the gas station. It works, I tried it and it seemed fine though I've never done dyno comparisons. I wouldn't use ethenol unless I didn't have anything else though and had to.
I was looking at the DSS forged -10cc pistons for my stroker/turbo build. My blocks getting Darton sleeves. Adjustable roller rockers and a .50 copper head gasket. There's all the options in the world with these engines.
*"The best time to plant a tree was 20 years ago and the next best time is now" I consider this to be best motivational quote I've heard in a very long time. But motivational quotes are useless if you don't practice what you preach*
Two things. Upgrade the intake to a 99-06 one. Better air flow. Second, upgrade the oil filter to the one for a Ford 300 straight 6. Adds about 1/2 qt of oil to the system. Ran that in my 06 rubicon and my 00 grand Cherokee.
I considered doing a stroker 4.6 build on my XJ, before deciding on a 6.0 LQ4 / LS swap a few years back. On the Jeep stroker forum, many people were having a lot of camshaft issues with theirs. And now, many engine builders of all makes are having issues with new flat tappet camshafts. Destroying themselves during break in, etc.
The story goes that the flat tappet cam problems are due to newer oils not containing enough anti-wear additives like ZDDP. There are still plenty of high zinc oils out there though, especially oils intended for older (pre-dpf) diesels, so I'm not sure if it's just improper selection or something else.
I've been running my stroker Jeep motor for about 5 years with no issues. Granted, I built mine very carefully. There's WAY more to it than they're talking about here if you want it to really work well. Even so, an LQ4 would stomp my stroker's face in terms of horsepower and torque and still get far better fuel mileage. The engineering of the LS is just so far beyond the old Rambler straight 6. If you can afford the LS swap and you have the skills to pull it off, it is a great option.
@@nerd1000ify I'm running Valvoline VR1 race oil in mine. Plenty of zinc. It's a little spendy, especially 7 quarts at a time (mine has added capacity) but no cam issues.
@@nerd1000ify this is a different issue brought about since the pandemic came about. Supply chain issues are causing manufacturers to unintentionally send out inferior products. The alloys being used are softer, and no amount of ZDDP is going to fix the problem. It’s the same deal with lifters and stamped rocker arms as well.
Now you've done it. Get a 4.2 crank, get a whole lot to consider. Rod length has effect on piston speed. Piston and rod combination will affect balance and piston rock. Yay Science!
While you are that far I suggest you replace two more items due to the history of them going bad. Easy now to replace and very reasonably priced. Replace the thermostat/housing and the coolant sensor. (Lower left back side of engine on my vintage wrangler) Just a thought to consider.
That's great that you get a 4.2 crank and just deal with the core charge. I know some companies sell new ones, but I don't know what they cost and how far away they are. I'm guessing the companies that sell those Keith Black piston sets do know.
Another great video nice to have an explanation as to the thought process ref the stock parts buy requirements. The compression maths was a really neat addition and explanation
Youre basically losing .026 on deck height, but gaining .450 in stroke. Your compression will be greater without any further mods even with the piston sucked into the hole .026.
Go with the longer rods for certain. Less rod angle means less cylinder wall wear and friction. Deck the block and head to make up the difference. You'll be happier in the long run
I thought the same thing when I was 14 and then got my Firebird stolen at the minit mart My Dad and Uncle almost beheaded me and I was not allowed to drive any vehicle on our property , not even the old Willys I had to buy a 450 dollar 65 Vdub and rebuild it before I could drive to school again
There is something that you may not be aware of. When you install the timing chain cover it has to be centered. They make a tool that you slide onto the end of the crankshaft after the cover is installed and it centers it up. Another option is to put the bolts into the cover and not tighten them up. Until you’ve installed the harmonic balancer.
glad you are doing the 4.6 conversion. even with the 4.0 head which is better than a 4.2 head it still doesnt breathe! cam will help a bit, please go in and do some bowl work and porting in the head, maybe a fancy valve job and bigger intake valves? not sure how bad the intake manifold is, but probably was an after thought.
Deck the block. Tune it to basically to what compression you want to run. There's lots of material. In my instance I made mine zero with with a short rod stroker with the short rod and a aftermarket piston. I ended up milling mine (edit **.022 **) (which zero decked it in my case) and shaved 7 thou off the head (to-de-banana) with a 43 thou msl gasket. Works out roughly little over 10:1. That's more than happy with today's fuels. I don't remember my numbers quite, it's been like 11 years lol I recorded my build, that folder is somewhere around here lol, but I think I had a 20cc dish icon forged 944 for a forged 5.875 RPM rod. Used the later 4.2 4CW crank that has .010 undersized. When I rollerized the motor I also bought another MLS head gasket and took a layer out. It was a bit different construction and slightly thicker so I took a layer back out and was roughly .042. I actually run that currently with 12 pounds of boost on 91. Glad you decided to do a full stroker. I thought maybe it was for someone else and they just want a fresh rebuild. That thing is going to fly! You'll be constantly doing burnouts and donuts in that thing after you put that stroker back in. 😄
For the Renix boys out there like me, watch out for that distributor. The sensor for the Renix is different than the later hall effect sensor. Even though they looks the same up until they use the ring style sensor. They have different values and don't quite work the same. The injector timing will be off and it won't run quite right.
@@geoffmooregm The old Renix blocks are closed fairly thick. The newer ones are a little thinner but I heard of people taking later ones and cutting as much as an 1/8 out. It surprised me when I told the cut to zero deck the block to the pistons. The rotating assembly I got as a part of a stroker kit and he told me to get them to mill the block that much. At that time I didn't too too much about machining these blocks but As I started rebuilding them I've noticed they are very beefy built. EDIT: And I just noticed now that my 2 is supposed to be a zero LOL 🤣😆
Want to say thanks for your excellent work. Your very easy to listen to and your writing or thought process is easy to follow. You seem like a person I would be happy to share a bourbon or coffee with.
Serious question, how complete is your Rockauto magnet collection? Edit I moved and had started over, I don’t want to think about the cost to collect all the magnets.
Hope this type show is a one off. I enjoy the original concept of refurbish as much as possible. Way too many channels(Powernation) start with a bare block and build it up with all new parts.
You won't get much compression with a 4.2 (258) piston in a 4.0L block. The bore is .125" bigger. This may be outrageous to some but if I were starting with a 4.0 I'd go the other way. Open the bore up as much as possible*. And destroke the motor by going to a 199 crank. Appropriate rods and piston. Custom cam. Need the custom cam because the head would get replaced with a new head built from two donor aluminum Windsor, Cleveland or LS heads for a crossflow head. Use a cam profile similiar to the Boss 302. The object would be to build a high rpm screamer. Back it up with a six speed transmission. Drop it in say a Rogue hardtop with IRS, new front suspension and a few other tricks and go hunting Beemers. Or use it for autocrossing. *take one block to the maximum overbore and another to 4.0" using sleeves welded or silver soldered in place.
Well that’s cool… didn’t know you could do that. Looking forward to the end results and I hope you do the time lapse builds itself video of the fresh 4.6
You probably know this already but I learned the hard way go stock with your thermostat temperature! I kept having overheating issues with my 4 L of course I tried 165 thermostats and that was actually my problem all along. One 9503 thermostat allows the coolant to spend enough time in the radiator to actually cool down system needs to be under pressure duh lol
Good point. Also, if he didn't have an HO head, I'm sure he could find the casting number and Rock would have a rebuilt unit ready to go. I think the OEM number is 7120.
As someone who was hoping for a stock restore I must admit got sad when I heard about the change. Wanted to know what to do when my 92 YJ needs a restoration
Always enjoy your videos. You make it fun and interesting. Do you have a complete list of parts you used to build your 4.6 engine, and how do I get it if you do have one ? Secondly, how much of a power increase over stock did your engine get ? Thanks
2 роки тому
Propably you already know it, but that mixed and matched rotating assembly for sure will need to be balanced :)
If you are going to do a 4.6 i would call Russ Potenger at Bishop-Buehl racing. He has done many and has custom pistons to help with compression and getting good quench.
I'm intrigued with your presentation. My 2005 TJ has 184K on its stock 4.0 liter. I wish it had a little more git up and go. If money was no issue, what might a reasonable cost be for the mod you discussed and what would I tell an engine builder in order to get what you've accomplished? Your response will be greatly appreciated as I am not mechanically adept to doing this. Thank you.
Im not sure at what compression ratio you are aiming to and i also dont know your combustion chamber volume, but i did same approx math and got, that with a distance of 0.025 and increased stroke, your comrpession should rise from ~9 to ~11. Please correct me if im missing something here.
Davin, Power Nation did a build on a Jeep 4.0 stroker and it was outrageous - they did a Dyno on it and did some tweaking and it put out some ungodly power. You can Google it - Just put in Power Nation tv Cheep Cherokee Budget Stroker
Imagine that... Davin reads the comments!! Or someone reads them for Davin because he's busy in the shop. lol I think that 4.2L discussion started with a comment of mine about swapping a 1994 Jeep 4.0L into my 1984 AMC Jeep to replace a clapped out 4.2L with the feedback carb... but I didn't read the rest of the comments so maybe I'm wrong.
surprised you're going with that fram paper junk filter. WIX 51515 is a much better constructed filter and has a higher capacity so more filter element to actually filter. no modifications needed either. very common 4.0L jeep upgrade
I buy these in bulk, although I get the Napa Gold filters. Same filter, but cheaper because of the different name. I have three vehicles that use the 51515 filter lol.
![We Put All the Tricks into Newcomer Racing's Big Power Jeep Engine Build [Dyno Surprise]](/img/n.gif)
I've been running a 4.6 stroker in my jeep for close to a decade now and I love it! Stock everything besides the 4.2 crank, rods, sealed power 677cp pistons .040 over, and injectors.
Hi, what does 0.040 over means? Still learning about engine building. Thank you!
@@free2chasehappy the cylinder bores are bored and honed .040 of an inch bigger then the factory size bore
@@autobodycolliosionrestorat3362 Thank you very much! Appreciate the help!
What year and model, and what about ecu tune solution? I have an 04 tj rubicon 5spd over 230k. Rebuilt most of front end, zj v8 tierod, reman coated calipers, rebuilt rear diff. I have 12shot injectors to put in when it gets warmer, they made a noticeable difference in terms of shorter cranking time to start in my old tj and ran better at low rpm. I never tracked mpg to see if they improved it though. Gotta fix some tub rust. If it makes over 300k i wouldnt hesitate to show it some love, stroker it and get a new ax15, the nv3500 is ok but 3rd gear syncro bad, i double clutch anyway. I researched doing a ls swap but for how these jeeps are driven, and the time and money to change a ton of things, the stroker makes way more sense. You dont need 400hp in a short wheelbase, slow shifting, top heavy 4x4. And could use new control arms and body mounts too, bushings are worn, and fix lockers not working. But i only paid 6300ish for it last november! It needed front end work though, the driver upper balljoint was wasted, had to trailer from connecticut. I dont see many tj's in massachusetts anymore, rust killed most of them. The frame design with no drain holes in the midsection is a big reason why. And you gotta undercoat these things and drill drain holes in frame. There was POUNDS of rust and scale i removed from my frame but it still is solid inside, i checked with inspection camera too. Needle scaled the whole underside when i got it, messy job but worth it. I wish you could buy a new samurai and tj, i think the jk and jl are meh, the underhood room is lacking, electronics have more problems, stupid things like integrated relays so if horn relay fails you cant replace just it, dont like the electronic throttle, has no feel, ruins a manual jk to me, and headrests are painfully angled forward like you are supposed to be a hunchback to drive them. The 3.6 is ok to me but still not as solid as 4.0, the oil cooler is an added point of failure and the inline 6 will always sound better. The frames and suspension are an improvement, but id love a narrower frame jk platform with a tj body, ax15, lockers, maybe a 4.0 stroked with a little turbo! That would be sick!
What oil did you change to?
You know sir, I was in a terrible "funk" all day today work. I am glad your video was here to watch as it makes my day. Thank you
I'm running a 4.2 crank, 4.2 rods, factory 4.0 pistons (yes, stock bore, making it a 4.5 liter), a thinner MLS head gasket, and a .030 decked block. Yes, this makes the compression ratio quite high, but I'm able to get away with it on 87 octane for a few reasons. First, I polished the piston tops and the chambers. This may have added a tiny bit of volume, but not enough to matter. It did help reduce hotspots though. Second, the quench is extremely tight. If this thing revved more than the 5300 limiter I'd be at risk of the piston hitting the head at high RPMs. That tight quench leads to extremely good mixing in the chamber, which makes for an efficient burn. Finally, my dynamic compression ratio is a bit lower due to a more aggressive cam. It's not a race cam by any means, but even small increases in duration can make a big difference in dynamic compression. Been running this combo for about 5 years. It's a beast.
Whats the 4.2 litter stuff out of?
@@sonxstream3293 you can find 4.2 in wranglers I think tj and yj and stuff
What did you do for pushrod lengths? I'll be running the mopar "hi perf" beehive spring out of the magnum V8. (drop in)
The 4.2 stuff can come out of any AMC 258. I think mine came out of a late 70s Wagoneer, but anything from a Gremlin to a YJ can do it.
@@scotteric8711 my build kept all the same geometry as stock except for the deck height on the block. I had .030" cut off the deck height, so I ran stock 4.0 pushrods, with a shim under the rocker arm pivot to make up for the difference in deck height. I don't remember the exact height if those shims. I'm sure it was probably .020 or .025. I just marked the tip of the valve with layout fluid, then turned the motor over to get a mark on the valve tip. Then just shimmed until that mark ended up in the middle of the valve.
4.6 строкер - отличная тема. Использую такую конфигурацию более 4 лет каждый день, очень доволен. Jeep XJ 1990 года
Perfect timing. Our '99 XJ has 250k miles. It's getting tired. This option is cheaper than RP stroker...
Thanks for posting.
If you want a drop in piston Icon makes them for this exact combo. Don't be afraid to bore it this block is thick and strong. Loving my 4.7 stroker, my old gladiator weighs 6k.
@@watrousmark401 Keith Black makes the drop in piston for less. KB is hypereutectic, Icon is forged. Unless going to extremes, you don't benefit from forged.
I built my first motor, the 4.6 stroker, back in 2007. I went the 4.2 rod and Sealed Power 825cp30s route and snagged one of the last mopar 30 cams. It was in a 96 2-dr 2wd manual cherokee that I stripped out to 2700#. I blew through 3 auburn lsds. It lasted a dozen years and 120k. I have some eagle 6.150s waiting for a 4.8l build. . .
P.S. get rid of that fan you got and get 1-2 ‘96 10-blades that have the same plug as the earlier ones. They move more air.
I built a 4.6 stroker for my 95 ZJ 10 years ago. All stock parts.
So many people whining about the Fram filter. If your oil is so contaminated that the brand of filter actually makes a difference, you have bigger problems. Yes, there are better filters, but it's not the quality of oil filter that kills engines. Ever. It's letting them leak until the oil pressure light comes on, and going 17,000 miles between oil changes. It'll be fine folks. Chill out.
Thank you for the graph John!
I've been building myself a roughly 94% RockAuto Grand Cherokee (WJ) for the last year-or-so now, so this is right up my alley!
The most rebuild video i've ever seen cuz i love 4.0L jeep .thank for all who works on this project
Ok, bit of honesty here. I use Rockauto a lot, built several trucks with their parts. Have been working on a 1997 Jeep ZJ and decided to do the stroker as well. i cannot get the parts on Rockauto for reasons we are all familiar with at this point. Glad to see you guys can get the parts, advertising and sales working at its best lol. Anyway, bitterness aside, love the channel and love this build so far!
Same here...
RockAuto and FCP Euro
@@ZEPRATGERNODT love that FCP warranty ,havent taken em up on the free oil changes yet though 😃
4.6 stroker , I know of a certain channel that did that in his 2000 xj for the extra power for doing recoveries ( Matt's off road recovery ) , with doing a twin exhaust that thing sounds good
The "Banana" is a beast! I prefer it to the Morevair.
@@moparedtn the banana became a super beast compared to what it used to be, but man that morrvair just looks way to good to say no to.
When I first seen it in a thumb nail it was confusing with the grill, I had it mistaken for as a Cadillac at first
The oil pan on the 4.2 in my old '84 CJ7 had a thick steel plate welded to the bottom of it from the factory, I am surprised (but not that surprised) that the 4.2 XJ doesn't have that feature. The plate helped prevent debris from denting or puncturing the bottom of the pan while off-road. I also found it was quite useful when changing motor mounts: I could unbolt one motor mount, then place a jack under the oil pan. When the engine was jacked up this way it would tilt to one side and allow me to slip the old motor mount out. Once the new one was in, I could repeat the process on the other side. I really miss that old Jeep.
Awesome to see someone put an idea in your ear and then you pull it off flawlessly.
That cam upgrade is so important. Probably as important as the extra displacement. After that a proper tune as usual
I have covered the side of my dad's tool box with Rock Auto magnets from my Mustang project over the last 6 months. 90% of my engine rebuild and 100% of the chasis is from Rock Auto.
I have to say that I did not think you could do a build that I would be more excited about, other than the Trail 50. But this is the "bee's knees". This is the type of thing that most people out there can do, will do. Don't take that the wrong way, I love seeing some of the high dollar builds, and the rare stuff, but this takes the cake for the "everyday" guy in his back yard. Cheers
I would not normally watch a Jeep engine rebuild, but Davin makes it interesting. I am watching.
Honestly , if you are going that far to build the engine you really should just make sure your deck height is true across the board anyhow. Do .025 with a cut and a .020(give or take) Cometic head gasket .
You’ll be at 9.2 or 9.3 c/r and still safe from detonation.
I’m rebuilding an 85 Nissan 720 pickup engine, currently. It’s a 2.4 4 banger with California emissions (2 spark plugs per cylinder). I use a lot of the tips he mentions when seeking parts or prioritizing what to replace. I love these rebuild videos.
That's great news. Is it hard or expensive to rebuild?
@@skylinefever so far so good. I have a parts pile going on as I take a look at the top end. Simple little truck.
@@Heffelz8 Excellent. Nissan sure made a lot of tough engines back then.
Would love to see Uncle Tony collaborating on this build!
Grind those casting lines of the new crankshaft and have it ballanced... those are stress concentration areas and should be addressed.
Dude...even .025" further in the hole will still raise your compression ratio from 8.8 to 9.5. You're forgetting that you're going to have a longer cylinder cramming air into about the same size combustion chamber. My 4.6 required premium due to this, but it was sooooo worth it. If you don't want to run premium though, you might want to find a way to reduce the compression ratio. If the piston were the same distance down the hole as the stock 4.0, that extra 0.6L would raise the compression ratio from 8.8 to 10.12. The cylinder being .025" further down the hole is only going to cost you .005 liters of combustion chamber volume. Combustion chamber volume will go from the stock .0758 L to .0807 L. This should give you a compression ratio of 9.5 due to the extra 0.6L of air you're compressing.
Ideally you'd use dished pistons that come up the the normal deck, that way you don't lose your squish (and the the associated reduced tendency to detonation). Not sure on the practicalities of that though.
Have you considered doing methanol injection to increase your octane?
@@AWIERD1 I sold my stroker, but am considering it in my new Jeep. Never considered meth in a NA engine, but not a bad idea, actually. It only knocks at low rpm/high throttle
To avoid the cost of premium I buy large containers of toluene for very cheap. It is a common solvent and one of the best additives available today for raising the octane rating and not losing any power. You can also use ethanol even adding E85 to the regular gas when you fill up is a common technique and by far the cheapest because it's a combination of the two cheapest fuels at the gas station. It works, I tried it and it seemed fine though I've never done dyno comparisons. I wouldn't use ethenol unless I didn't have anything else though and had to.
I was looking at the DSS forged -10cc pistons for my stroker/turbo build. My blocks getting Darton sleeves. Adjustable roller rockers and a .50 copper head gasket. There's all the options in the world with these engines.
Counter proposal. Go the slightly lower compression route, bolt a turbo on it, and ram plenty of boost down its throat. You know you want to.
i’m curious to see a dyno run and how much more power you’ll get with a stroker 4.6l
Thank you for listening to us! I need ideas on what setup I wanted on my pulled 4.0l and god delivered haha
Mixing and matching stock parts is where things get fun. Nice work!!
Can’t wait! It’s a really easy way to wake up the 4.0. What’s even better is that it last forever as well!
*"The best time to plant a tree was 20 years ago and the next best time is now" I consider this to be best motivational quote I've heard in a very long time. But motivational quotes are useless if you don't practice what you preach*
Two things. Upgrade the intake to a 99-06 one. Better air flow. Second, upgrade the oil filter to the one for a Ford 300 straight 6. Adds about 1/2 qt of oil to the system. Ran that in my 06 rubicon and my 00 grand Cherokee.
I considered doing a stroker 4.6 build on my XJ, before deciding on a 6.0 LQ4 / LS swap a few years back. On the Jeep stroker forum, many people were having a lot of camshaft issues with theirs. And now, many engine builders of all makes are having issues with new flat tappet camshafts. Destroying themselves during break in, etc.
If you're open to the LS route even the small LS's are an unpgrade.
The story goes that the flat tappet cam problems are due to newer oils not containing enough anti-wear additives like ZDDP. There are still plenty of high zinc oils out there though, especially oils intended for older (pre-dpf) diesels, so I'm not sure if it's just improper selection or something else.
I've been running my stroker Jeep motor for about 5 years with no issues. Granted, I built mine very carefully. There's WAY more to it than they're talking about here if you want it to really work well. Even so, an LQ4 would stomp my stroker's face in terms of horsepower and torque and still get far better fuel mileage. The engineering of the LS is just so far beyond the old Rambler straight 6. If you can afford the LS swap and you have the skills to pull it off, it is a great option.
@@nerd1000ify I'm running Valvoline VR1 race oil in mine. Plenty of zinc. It's a little spendy, especially 7 quarts at a time (mine has added capacity) but no cam issues.
@@nerd1000ify this is a different issue brought about since the pandemic came about. Supply chain issues are causing manufacturers to unintentionally send out inferior products. The alloys being used are softer, and no amount of ZDDP is going to fix the problem. It’s the same deal with lifters and stamped rocker arms as well.
Now you've done it. Get a 4.2 crank, get a whole lot to consider. Rod length has effect on piston speed. Piston and rod combination will affect balance and piston rock. Yay Science!
While you are that far I suggest you replace two more items due to the history of them going bad. Easy now to replace and very reasonably priced.
Replace the thermostat/housing and the coolant sensor. (Lower left back side of engine on my vintage wrangler)
Just a thought to consider.
I like this direction you are taking
You are the best 👌 from Egypt 🇪🇬 full respect 🙏
Finally cought it 8 minutes after loaded 👏🏻👏🏻👍🏻
That's great that you get a 4.2 crank and just deal with the core charge. I know some companies sell new ones, but I don't know what they cost and how far away they are. I'm guessing the companies that sell those Keith Black piston sets do know.
Another great video nice to have an explanation as to the thought process ref the stock parts buy requirements.
The compression maths was a really neat addition and explanation
Youre basically losing .026 on deck height, but gaining .450 in stroke. Your compression will be greater without any further mods even with the piston sucked into the hole .026.
Yeah- a stroker typically needs premium fuel due to this. Compression ratio will move from 8.8 to about 10.
Go with the longer rods for certain. Less rod angle means less cylinder wall wear and friction. Deck the block and head to make up the difference. You'll be happier in the long run
Rebuilt those ignitions a few times. Replacements are great if your not worried about having a ignition key different than the door locks.
I like my key to come out. Works great for quick runs into a store or to pick up food when you want to leave the Jeep running.
I thought the same thing when I was 14 and then got my Firebird stolen at the minit mart My Dad and Uncle almost beheaded me and I was not allowed to drive any vehicle on our property , not even the old Willys I had to buy a 450 dollar 65 Vdub and rebuild it before I could drive to school again
I call dibs on the fridge magnets. That's one of my favorite things about ordering from Rock Auto.
.....except for when you order $500+ worth of parts and don't end-up getting one.
You will need spacers for the engine girdle under the block to accommodate the larger rotation of the new, bigger crank.
I like this guy. You can tell he's not just a "youtube mechanic"
There is something that you may not be aware of. When you install the timing chain cover it has to be centered. They make a tool that you slide onto the end of the crankshaft after the cover is installed and it centers it up. Another option is to put the bolts into the cover and not tighten them up. Until you’ve installed the harmonic balancer.
Gonna have to dyno this one to see what the stats are after all this work is said and done 😁
Good thing rock auto has a great return policy
glad you are doing the 4.6 conversion. even with the 4.0 head which is better than a 4.2 head it still doesnt breathe! cam will help a bit, please go in and do some bowl work and porting in the head, maybe a fancy valve job and bigger intake valves? not sure how bad the intake manifold is, but probably was an after thought.
I just got a Jeep that thankfully doesn't need any of this. But it is interesting to see what can be done.
it needs all of this... if you don't think so then sell your Jeep to a Jeeper and get a KIA
Enjoying this build and they way you did it with stock parts
Deck the block. Tune it to basically to what compression you want to run. There's lots of material.
In my instance I made mine zero with with a short rod stroker with the short rod and a aftermarket piston. I ended up milling mine (edit **.022 **) (which zero decked it in my case) and shaved 7 thou off the head (to-de-banana) with a 43 thou msl gasket. Works out roughly little over 10:1. That's more than happy with today's fuels. I don't remember my numbers quite, it's been like 11 years lol I recorded my build, that folder is somewhere around here lol, but I think I had a 20cc dish icon forged 944 for a forged 5.875 RPM rod. Used the later 4.2 4CW crank that has .010 undersized.
When I rollerized the motor I also bought another MLS head gasket and took a layer out. It was a bit different construction and slightly thicker so I took a layer back out and was roughly .042. I actually run that currently with 12 pounds of boost on 91.
Glad you decided to do a full stroker. I thought maybe it was for someone else and they just want a fresh rebuild. That thing is going to fly! You'll be constantly doing burnouts and donuts in that thing after you put that stroker back in. 😄
For the Renix boys out there like me, watch out for that distributor. The sensor for the Renix is different than the later hall effect sensor. Even though they looks the same up until they use the ring style sensor. They have different values and don't quite work the same. The injector timing will be off and it won't run quite right.
You can take that much off the block and not destroy it?😳 Crazy!
@@geoffmooregm The old Renix blocks are closed fairly thick. The newer ones are a little thinner but I heard of people taking later ones and cutting as much as an 1/8 out. It surprised me when I told the cut to zero deck the block to the pistons. The rotating assembly I got as a part of a stroker kit and he told me to get them to mill the block that much. At that time I didn't too too much about machining these blocks but As I started rebuilding them I've noticed they are very beefy built.
EDIT: And I just noticed now that my 2 is supposed to be a zero LOL 🤣😆
@@CanadaBud23 Oh ok that makes much more sense. I was thinking damn you can mill almost 1/4" out. Thats some heft!
@@geoffmooregm Yeah I was like, a lot?! How? 😆Then I read my comment again and I was like Oooh, lol.
Want to say thanks for your excellent work. Your very easy to listen to and your writing or thought process is easy to follow. You seem like a person I would be happy to share a bourbon or coffee with.
Enjoy these rebuilds and always learn as I observe. Thanks for sharing.
A Jeep is all about simplicity.
The only thing is missing to me is the Edelbrock Aluminum head but probably would have took longer to ship due to chain supply issues idk.
Definitely the time to upgrade!
Helps to have lots of money when buying parts.
Like to know the Rock Auto invoice total.
GG, the Fram Racing filters aren't any better than their Drive line in terms of internal construction (all paperboard, so prone to internal collapse).
Loving this build so far
Serious question, how complete is your Rockauto magnet collection?
Edit I moved and had started over, I don’t want to think about the cost to collect all the magnets.
I have over 35 magnets on my fridge!
I have collected over 100 magnets since 2007.😅
"2 refrigerators and at least one toolbox so-far."
Yeah a 4.2L crank is the way to go.
My project is a 1968 saab 96 that the OG engine blew so now i am going to swap a 1,3 l toyota yaris engine with 86hp old had 68
Hope this type show is a one off. I enjoy the original concept of refurbish as much as possible. Way too many channels(Powernation) start with a bare block and build it up with all new parts.
I love this series so much.
You won't get much compression with a 4.2 (258) piston in a 4.0L block. The bore is .125" bigger.
This may be outrageous to some but if I were starting with a 4.0 I'd go the other way. Open the bore up as much as possible*. And destroke the motor by going to a 199 crank. Appropriate rods and piston. Custom cam. Need the custom cam because the head would get replaced with a new head built from two donor aluminum Windsor, Cleveland or LS heads for a crossflow head. Use a cam profile similiar to the Boss 302. The object would be to build a high rpm screamer. Back it up with a six speed transmission. Drop it in say a Rogue hardtop with IRS, new front suspension and a few other tricks and go hunting Beemers. Or use it for autocrossing.
*take one block to the maximum overbore and another to 4.0" using sleeves welded or silver soldered in place.
Great video, neat calcs. Thanks
Well that’s cool… didn’t know you could do that. Looking forward to the end results and I hope you do the time lapse builds itself video of the fresh 4.6
Try a Hastings 383 oil filter. Higher capacity screws right on.
You probably know this already but I learned the hard way go stock with your thermostat temperature! I kept having overheating issues with my 4 L of course I tried 165 thermostats and that was actually my problem all along. One 9503 thermostat allows the coolant to spend enough time in the radiator to actually cool down system needs to be under pressure duh lol
System pressure is controlled by the radiator cap, not the thermostat.
I’m wondering which head he’s using. The H.O. head that ran in the early 90s is a good upgrade.
This was a factory HO motor. The replacement head is also HO.
Good point. Also, if he didn't have an HO head, I'm sure he could find the casting number and Rock would have a rebuilt unit ready to go. I think the OEM number is 7120.
As someone who was hoping for a stock restore I must admit got sad when I heard about the change. Wanted to know what to do when my 92 YJ needs a restoration
Yes!!!! Stroker Build!!!
Jeep 4.0 or 4.6 liter ? Neither, I have the old reliable "Iron Duke", 2.5 liter 4 cyl in my '87 Comanche, over 300,000 miles on the Original Motor.
Always enjoy your videos. You make it fun and interesting. Do you have a complete list of parts you used to build your 4.6 engine, and how do I get it if you do have one ? Secondly, how much of a power increase over stock did your engine get ? Thanks
Propably you already know it, but that mixed and matched rotating assembly for sure will need to be balanced :)
Sure they need balancing. At least when working on an online, you don't need special math to do it.
If you are going to do a 4.6 i would call Russ Potenger at Bishop-Buehl racing. He has done many and has custom pistons to help with compression and getting good quench.
I'm intrigued with your presentation. My 2005 TJ has 184K on its stock 4.0 liter. I wish it had a little more git up and go. If money was no issue, what might a reasonable cost be for the mod you discussed and what would I tell an engine builder in order to get what you've accomplished? Your response will be greatly appreciated as I am not mechanically adept to doing this. Thank you.
Im not sure at what compression ratio you are aiming to and i also dont know your combustion chamber volume, but i did same approx math and got, that with a distance of 0.025 and increased stroke, your comrpession should rise from ~9 to ~11. Please correct me if im missing something here.
Inquiring minds want to know how much $$ all of that Rock Auto stock would cost one of us shade tree mechs. Cheers!
Go with the longer rods, should give a better rod ratio.
6.5:1 in a 4.6L i6. My first thought is 30 psi of boost on regular fuel and 40 psi on premium.
Davin, Power Nation did a build on a Jeep 4.0 stroker and it was outrageous - they did a Dyno on it and did some tweaking and it put out some ungodly power. You can Google it - Just put in Power Nation tv Cheep Cherokee Budget Stroker
how about a renix cam? higher lobes than 91+ 4.0. and I plan on using a TUPY head with slightly larger valves from an 03-06 wrangler
For those of us watching that are interested in duplicating this build, do you think that you could include a price list in the final episode?
I am hook to this! Because actually that’s my next proyecto 4.6 my xj! Nice!!!
I want to see Davin do an LS! Get it at a junkyard, rebuild it for a daily cruiser. Who's with me?
Imagine that... Davin reads the comments!! Or someone reads them for Davin because he's busy in the shop. lol
I think that 4.2L discussion started with a comment of mine about swapping a 1994 Jeep 4.0L into my 1984 AMC Jeep to replace a clapped out 4.2L with the feedback carb... but I didn't read the rest of the comments so maybe I'm wrong.
I believe I’d deck the block some anyway. Maybe not the whole .026 but .015 to .020.
I would too. However, it is because I just don't trust the surface of the engine block. It is eay to do at rebuilds.
Ya gotta dyno this when your done ,
You should deck the block to reduce deck height.
surprised you're going with that fram paper junk filter. WIX 51515 is a much better constructed filter and has a higher capacity so more filter element to actually filter. no modifications needed either. very common 4.0L jeep upgrade
I buy these in bulk, although I get the Napa Gold filters. Same filter, but cheaper because of the different name. I have three vehicles that use the 51515 filter lol.
Short and sweet
Parts list would be great if you put up a post or a link for then . Thanks
this type of guy is type of guy I would trust all my cars to work on
should mention the influence extra capacity has on compression ratio.
Good video but what about cost?
Nice 👍
Will b cool on my 87 Comanche
DUDE! Show us the magnets! You could fill a door with them from that haul alone. LOL