To fix the seats I would use that thick rubber matting material coated in either Sika 521 or PVC epoxy they use for repairing inflatable dinghies. poke two holes through the rubber with a needle and then tie two pieces of fishing line through the holes. Then use masking tape to tape the material around the holes in case of squeeze out. Then slather the rubber patch in adhesive and slip it through the hole. Use the fishing line to gently pull the rubber into the back side of the material and use masking tape to close the opening. You can tape the fishing line down to maintain the contact. Let it all set then clean up the tape and cut off the fishing line. It should be good until it opens in another place.
I love to use Wago clamps for wiring. But in many years of using them, I would never use them in a critical component like a bilge pump. Anything I consider critical gets unbroken continuous wires or any connections get soldered and heatshrink. This is just my preference.
Agree about the Wago clamps, especially in the bilge area. If the pump gets clogged and water rises submerging the connectors it could kill the pump at the moment you need it. I also think you need another pump installed, just in case. Maybe if a slightly higher level. It’s when a thru-hull breaks or a hose splits that you’ll really need it.
@@jcp240z they're wonderful for Signal wires that never move or vibrate inside clean dry electrical cabinets. If you take one apart you realize that it is only a thin strip of metal that contacts The Wire so it is a very tenuous electrical connection at best
15:19 i recommend to take a dremel or hand sandpaper or a file or anything and make the hole smoother. It most likely wont bother you ever but it is one of those things that can hurt you or damage equipment if you have to reach through this hole in an hurry and it should only take 10 minutes be in a less spiky condition. Oh and do a dry test of the bildgepump by putting into a water bucket ^^
I've been watching your videos for over a year and I've loved every one of them. I'm an American, and I own old muscle cars with vinyl seats and you described the smell with the perfect mixture of poetic irony and literalness. ✌️
Here's a tip from Holland. Put an oil filter between the intake of the bilge pump and the discharge point. Then you can discharge the bilge water without harming the environment! Keep up the good work 🙂
I think you pass a point of amateur. I really enjoy watchin your work. My wish is same to buy such a holland type of boat and restore it. Tnx for good videos, have a nice weekend!
Maybe also a good idea to install a bilge pump alarm? It would be even nicer if it would be able to transmit such an alarm to an app on your smartphone. That way you would get an instant alarm message whenever something goes wrong, even when you are far away. You could organise help from a distance.
Great job restoring that cabin cruser. I would put a automatic bilge switch on that bilge pump. Just a little more piece of mind if something happens and your not there to be on top of it.
You might want to put that green piping all the way around the hole cause you know how vibration is on boats... it could slip off that one already installed and chafe on the other parts not covered... just a thought.. great job on that bilge install! Looks perfect!!
I love that boat, it looks like what my boat probably did when it left the factory in the late 70’s. I have an IMP Aztec that I’ve converted from stern drive to a 200 HP outboard on a bracket. I’ve been working for more of that, “easy wash down” white fishing boat interior, but I love that look. She might have some age but she has class! Your project has been an inspiration to me, keep rocking dude.
On the Bayliner, research balancing dual carb set ups. That will help with the uneven idle and off idle through low rpm performance. Your gear shifting issue could be water in the sterndrive lower unit. A lower unit service entails removing it, draining the fluid, changing the water pump with wear plate, reinstalling it, and refilling it with gear oil. If the lower unit oil is a gray to coffee with heavy creamer brown color, you may need a reseal on the lower unit. If it's a dark honey color to black in color, it just needs a change. If your lower unit has internal linkages with a cable grease everything with a marine grease. Inspect the gimbal housing while the lower unit is off and make sure the bellows and other seals aren't letting water into the hull. They are partially submerged while sitting in the water. With all the work I've seen you do, you can handle these tasks with a little research and a few videos. Check out the Bayliner Owners Club forum for more help. Good luck and nice little BL.
Docking: I could not tell in the video if this is needed, but one thing that helps docking in almost all conditions is slowing down, being patient and not expecting to speed into it like you would with a car. make small slow adjustments and wait. I enjoy your channel and content. thanks for entertaining me.
The Bayliner’s wiring is in the classic muscle car style: Engineer #1 , “Should we color code and design the wiring layout for ease of maintenance?” Engineer #2, “What? Oh yes there’s too much room for ease of maintenance, we should add a bigger engine nobody cares about wire colors! MORE POWER!!!!”
The test of bilge would be cool. Maybe the bilge pump hose could be more secure near the drive shaft just in case of movement when under way. The hose could be worn thru quickly if it touchs the drive shaft.
Tying up with a midship line saves allot of trouble when docking. Stops the boat from drifting off on the bow and stern. Can just attach a midship cleat on either side.
I realize this is an older video- But make sure on the switch panel of the Bayliner.. Make sure the blower functions properly. It is critical that you have that working during refueling. It needs to function to help vent out explosive fuel vapors that settle down into the lower parts of the bilge during refueling. Explosions can and do happen if you dont vent out the vapors properly during refueling operations.
Mid life crisis 🤣 I've just bought a 1996 Bayliner 175 bow rider project boat, entirely inspired by you and your channel! Can't wait for a winter of repairs and refurbishment!
Every video, I'm impressed at how meticulous you are in everything you do. Great way to take you time on the front end so you don't have to re-do it on the back end....
As a suggestion, I did not see any pressure on your oil gauge, that is something you should check. Since you ran the engine and without any problems, its probably the gauge.
Hi. Add some strain relief to the bilge pump cables where they join. Better still, loose the Wago connectors and use some heat shrink waterproof butt connectors and add strain relief. Good luck, and nice job so far.
Buy some vinyl & take the old cover off the seat frame, on the in side cut away any little strands/strings of old material, then use vinyl glue spread around the rip holding the rip together place a patch of the new vinyl on the insides and then apply weight holding it together. Repeat as needed 👍👍🇬🇧🇬🇧
You need a proper Kayak double ended padel for that blue thing. If you had a set of davits on your float you could store your small boats on board for the winter including your Bayliner.
Very Very Nice. I am glad to see that all the work and effort that you put into these projects is paying off, and that you can see and enjoy the results of your hard work. Let us know if you are planing to live on the boat during the winter, and what is like.
Another great video. I would put some clamps on the hose, and wires, specifically connections should be attached to the wall, and never laying flat on the surfaces if possible because water can cover them and short out.
I did my RYA level 2 in a boat just like this in Amsterdam over 10 years ago, it was a lot of fun. The owner had paid for the course and adding me reduced the costs in his boat.
I think a test of the bilge pump might have been interesting. Looks like a clean installation. Do you intend to clean and paint the bilge? Thanks for the videos.
Or better yet. (My opinion) a air over Hydraulic mechanical steering system. Like what we used in our race boat. It was made by Hynautic. At least I think that's how it was spelled. I believe it's called Seastar today.. Not cheap, but no electric motor to fail and ruin your day. Bullet proof.. It was a twin cylinder set-up(one on the outer side of each outdrive)\|_|/ with a tie bar between the 2 outdrives. But you could use a single cylinder on the rudder since it's inboard. -|
I would no use that wiring on the bilge pump Also install a second pump at a higher level so when the shit hits the fan and the water is incoming, you have a chance of it outgoing maybe just as fast. If a through hole penetration fails the amount of water that can “ flood” in is huge. Good luck
You must not trust an empty bilge with no water to a leaking bilge with water. The torque of the bilge pump will move your hose and make a drastic difference in the hose position. Simple DIY 101 maintenance, everything must have a clear path and if your hose torques and moves you must make provisions for this. Make double hose grommets for each place a hose goes over a steel partition. Test your bilge with water and make sure your hose hill not move in any direction from what you want. Test and retest, the only way to safety.
While you are waiting for the bilge pump to fulfill it's purpose, I would pour a bucket of water into the bilge to test it to make sure that it actually works.
I gather that urban river has a speed limit so you can't go fast. If you can never go fast, then you didn't even need the engine and can just use the 2.3, or you can probably save gas by using the 2.3 in the speed limit zone. Also, if you don't care about top speed or acceleration or towing ability, you could improve mileage with a very steep propeller.
Since it looks like the seats are easy to remove, I would just try to find a good deal having them re-covered at an upholstery shop. Don't think you'll have much luck patching them.
Is that the only bilge pump for the boat? It seems rather small for a boat that size and normally you would have multiple pumps. Have you had the Bayliner opened up? Just wondering what sort of top speed it has. You stated cruise speed on the Bayliner is 2000-2500 rpm. Is that on plane? Most boats this size that I have owned are not on plane at 2000 rpm. Closer to 3000 rpm for plane speed.
Hi, I have a health and safety concern for your engine room- Have you checked the exhaust lagging to see if it is asbestos? I work as a consultant in the asbestos industry in New Zealand and have seen lagging around exhaust pipes numerous times. The thicker lagging on the section which leads to the outside of the boat looks suspicious. It is a major concern if the lagging is asbestos and it gets damaged. Have you considered getting an asbestos check done for the lagging of the exhaust system?
There is a difference between a need and a want. Most Mega Yachts have a single tender called a rib. You should tell the people who donate to your vlog how much of their money goes to your "wants" an how much actually goes to your big "boat".
Just ran across your video.. and wondered is the RPM speed wide open throttle or just your desired cruising speed. cause if that's as fast as she will wind up the prop could be the problem of not being able to get in reverse easily.. ( excessively difficult)... Im thinking it's too steep of a pitch... Water has too much influence on it.. cause WOT should be closer to 4000-4500
Hey mate, I've been following your channel for quite a while now - not only because of your awesome videos and the progress you make, which is very inspiring in itself, but also because you're anchoring in a place that is quite dear to me, besides the fact I haven't been there in quite a long time now. Co-owning a 1978 Sea Ray myself, I would love to meet in person once and exchange some ideas, tips and whatever there is to talk about at some point in the near future. Since our boat is a "project boat" of sorts in itself, maybe we can inspire each other? I'd love that. If you'd be happy with that as well, let's find a private way to exchange contact details. Sincerely, Jo
To fix the seats I would use that thick rubber matting material coated in either Sika 521 or PVC epoxy they use for repairing inflatable dinghies. poke two holes through the rubber with a needle and then tie two pieces of fishing line through the holes. Then use masking tape to tape the material around the holes in case of squeeze out. Then slather the rubber patch in adhesive and slip it through the hole. Use the fishing line to gently pull the rubber into the back side of the material and use masking tape to close the opening. You can tape the fishing line down to maintain the contact. Let it all set then clean up the tape and cut off the fishing line. It should be good until it opens in another place.
The smell of freedom and empowerment!
I love to use Wago clamps for wiring. But in many years of using them, I would never use them in a critical component like a bilge pump. Anything I consider critical gets unbroken continuous wires or any connections get soldered and heatshrink. This is just my preference.
Agree about the Wago clamps, especially in the bilge area. If the pump gets clogged and water rises submerging the connectors it could kill the pump at the moment you need it. I also think you need another pump installed, just in case. Maybe if a slightly higher level. It’s when a thru-hull breaks or a hose splits that you’ll really need it.
@@jcp240z they're wonderful for Signal wires that never move or vibrate inside clean dry electrical cabinets. If you take one apart you realize that it is only a thin strip of metal that contacts The Wire so it is a very tenuous electrical connection at best
The connections should be waterproof. So heat shrink that has adhesive. Like the videos by the way!
I absolutely look forward to new video release's and your choice of music is a treat to go along with the content. Keep up the great work.
Excellent quality of workmanship
15:19 i recommend to take a dremel or hand sandpaper or a file or anything and make the hole smoother. It most likely wont bother you ever but it is one of those things that can hurt you or damage equipment if you have to reach through this hole in an hurry and it should only take 10 minutes be in a less spiky condition. Oh and do a dry test of the bildgepump by putting into a water bucket ^^
love "The Good The Bad And the Ugly" music score
Its "for a few dollars more" from the man with no name trilogy
@@Davidl91 Now ya made me have to pull out that DVD. My error, same actors!! LOL
I've been watching your videos for over a year and I've loved every one of them. I'm an American, and I own old muscle cars with vinyl seats and you described the smell with the perfect mixture of poetic irony and literalness. ✌️
Here's a tip from Holland. Put an oil filter between the intake of the bilge pump and the discharge point. Then you can discharge the bilge water without harming the environment! Keep up the good work 🙂
This work was for High Five! Well done! 👍
I think you pass a point of amateur. I really enjoy watchin your work. My wish is same to buy such a holland type of boat and restore it. Tnx for good videos, have a nice weekend!
I like how the rubber membrane on the dock boat has taken on the look of the wood it’s covering.
Living your best life 👍🏻 your inspiration is awesome 👏🏻 !!
Maybe also a good idea to install a bilge pump alarm?
It would be even nicer if it would be able to transmit such an alarm to an app on your smartphone. That way you would get an instant alarm message whenever something goes wrong, even when you are far away.
You could organise help from a distance.
Great job restoring that cabin cruser. I would put a automatic bilge switch on that bilge pump. Just a little more piece of mind if something happens and your not there to be on top of it.
Like the music choice today. Big fan of that movie.
Love the music from The Good, Bad and Ugly!
You might want to put that green piping all the way around the hole cause you know how vibration is on boats... it could slip off that one already installed and chafe on the other parts not covered... just a thought.. great job on that bilge install! Looks perfect!!
Another great video, thank you for bringing us along for the refit of you boat/home. I look forward to up coming videos. Peace my friend. Rikky
I love that boat, it looks like what my boat probably did when it left the factory in the late 70’s. I have an IMP Aztec that I’ve converted from stern drive to a 200 HP outboard on a bracket. I’ve been working for more of that, “easy wash down” white fishing boat interior, but I love that look. She might have some age but she has class! Your project has been an inspiration to me, keep rocking dude.
I applaud your passion ! Everything is not the correct way but you do what you can . Have fun !!!
On the Bayliner, research balancing dual carb set ups. That will help with the uneven idle and off idle through low rpm performance. Your gear shifting issue could be water in the sterndrive lower unit. A lower unit service entails removing it, draining the fluid, changing the water pump with wear plate, reinstalling it, and refilling it with gear oil. If the lower unit oil is a gray to coffee with heavy creamer brown color, you may need a reseal on the lower unit. If it's a dark honey color to black in color, it just needs a change. If your lower unit has internal linkages with a cable grease everything with a marine grease. Inspect the gimbal housing while the lower unit is off and make sure the bellows and other seals aren't letting water into the hull. They are partially submerged while sitting in the water. With all the work I've seen you do, you can handle these tasks with a little research and a few videos. Check out the Bayliner Owners Club forum for more help. Good luck and nice little BL.
That's one of the best Ween songs ever!
Buenos Tardes Amigo!
Docking: I could not tell in the video if this is needed, but one thing that helps docking in almost all conditions is slowing down, being patient and not expecting to speed into it like you would with a car. make small slow adjustments and wait.
I enjoy your channel and content. thanks for entertaining me.
The Bayliner’s wiring is in the classic muscle car style: Engineer #1 , “Should we color code and design the wiring layout for ease of maintenance?” Engineer #2, “What? Oh yes there’s too much room for ease of maintenance, we should add a bigger engine nobody cares about wire colors! MORE POWER!!!!”
The test of bilge would be cool. Maybe the bilge pump hose could be more secure near the drive shaft just in case of movement when under way. The hose could be worn thru quickly if it touchs the drive shaft.
Jippii and wow. Awesome video again. Greetings from Finland.
Tying up with a midship line saves allot of trouble when docking. Stops the boat from drifting off on the bow and stern. Can just attach a midship cleat on either side.
I realize this is an older video- But make sure on the switch panel of the Bayliner.. Make sure the blower functions properly. It is critical that you have that working during refueling. It needs to function to help vent out explosive fuel vapors that settle down into the lower parts of the bilge during refueling. Explosions can and do happen if you dont vent out the vapors properly during refueling operations.
Mid life crisis 🤣 I've just bought a 1996 Bayliner 175 bow rider project boat, entirely inspired by you and your channel! Can't wait for a winter of repairs and refurbishment!
Thanks for all the hard work. I get so excited every time I see a new video upload. Your amazing
Every video, I'm impressed at how meticulous you are in everything you do. Great way to take you time on the front end so you don't have to re-do it on the back end....
They call that Bald Eagles in america!:P awesome phrase for everything regarding Horsepowers, muscle cars, turbos, gasoline ect!:)
Very nice explanation of the wiring switch. When you get around to it I would suggest a working Oil Pressure gauge on the Bayliner.
Thoroughly... "the.. ruh.. ly", no 'rough' stuff! ;)
Relevant username... One of the many english words who's spelling make no sense. We definitely don't make is easy on non-native speakers.
Welcome back.....missing your videos lately!
As a suggestion, I did not see any pressure on
your oil gauge, that is something you should check. Since you ran the engine and without any problems, its probably the gauge.
Or the sensor on the engine
Hi.
Add some strain relief to the bilge pump cables where they join. Better still, loose the Wago connectors and use some heat shrink waterproof butt connectors and add strain relief. Good luck, and nice job so far.
I love the Bayliner.
Buy some vinyl & take the old cover off the seat frame, on the in side cut away any little strands/strings of old material, then use vinyl glue spread around the rip holding the rip together place a patch of the new vinyl on the insides and then apply weight holding it together. Repeat as needed 👍👍🇬🇧🇬🇧
Nice choice of music from the "Good, Bad, and the Ugly". ;)
Love the Eastwood spaghetti western music!
You need a proper Kayak double ended padel for that blue thing. If you had a set of davits on your float you could store your small boats on board for the winter including your Bayliner.
Very Very Nice. I am glad to see that all the work and effort that you put into these projects is paying off, and that you can see and enjoy the results of your hard work. Let us know if you are planing to live on the boat during the winter, and what is like.
The smell...I exactly know what you mean....Thanks for this video. Great, as always :)
Good job Zlatan!
Another great video. I would put some clamps on the hose, and wires, specifically connections should be attached to the wall, and never laying flat on the surfaces if possible because water can cover them and short out.
Nice. Triangles are called gussets.
All profesionals starts as an amature... Not to worry, you'll be a Pro in no time!
You are building a nice waterbourne lifestyle.
Remote control door... Boy.. Sure is next level on that💪
Its the alarm shut off
I did my RYA level 2 in a boat just like this in Amsterdam over 10 years ago, it was a lot of fun. The owner had paid for the course and adding me reduced the costs in his boat.
I think a test of the bilge pump might have been interesting. Looks like a clean installation. Do you intend to clean and paint the bilge? Thanks for the videos.
Have you considered replacing the steering cables with an electric hydraulic unit? It would get rid of all that cabling and make the area more usable.
Or better yet. (My opinion) a air over Hydraulic mechanical steering system. Like what we used in our race boat. It was made by Hynautic. At least I think that's how it was spelled. I believe it's called Seastar today.. Not cheap, but no electric motor to fail and ruin your day. Bullet proof.. It was a twin cylinder set-up(one on the outer side of each outdrive)\|_|/ with a tie bar between the 2 outdrives. But you could use a single cylinder on the rudder since it's inboard. -|
That shelf looks beefy enough to sleep in hehe :) good job!! Keep rolling along!
Nice fleet, admiral..
Great videos, and I love both of your boats!
Have you thought about the stability of the boat , with the weight of all steel and weight of the unit itself. Progress feels great !
Why not use a padlock and chain on your speedboat? Also a gazebo (pop-up) with a few side panels on your dock?
I would no use that wiring on the bilge pump
Also install a second pump at a higher level so when the shit hits the fan and the water is incoming, you have a chance of it outgoing maybe just as fast.
If a through hole penetration fails the amount of water that can “ flood” in is huge.
Good luck
You must not trust an empty bilge with no water to a leaking bilge with water. The torque of the bilge pump will move your hose and make a drastic difference in the hose position. Simple DIY 101 maintenance, everything must have a clear path and if your hose torques and moves you must make provisions for this. Make double hose grommets for each place a hose goes over a steel partition. Test your bilge with water and make sure your hose hill not move in any direction from what you want. Test and retest, the only way to safety.
Your story telling is only surpassed by your work ethic. Brilliant! Just one question. Can you have too many boats? Asking for a friend.
While you are waiting for the bilge pump to fulfill it's purpose, I would pour a bucket of water into the bilge to test it to make sure that it actually works.
Greetings From The UK - well done
I love your channel, that is all
I gather that urban river has a speed limit so you can't go fast. If you can never go fast, then you didn't even need the engine and can just use the 2.3, or you can probably save gas by using the 2.3 in the speed limit zone. Also, if you don't care about top speed or acceleration or towing ability, you could improve mileage with a very steep propeller.
not sure whether to love or hate your Bayliner
nice job
Since it looks like the seats are easy to remove, I would just try to find a good deal having them re-covered at an upholstery shop. Don't think you'll have much luck patching them.
Your shift cables need adjusted and that should fix your reverse going in hard issue.
4:58... good music choice, all you need is cigar and a sombrero.
Make sure you vent your engine bay and boat before starting anything electrical on an inboard petrol engine boat
There are videos on repairing vinyl car seats that will show you how to do your seats.
You got yourself most American boat you can imagine. Bayliners it's like a Ford in North America. Interior is just replace. There is no other way
Check your cable it may need to be adjusted on the reverse side
Background music is good - the good the bad and the ugly....
May I suggest buoyant key fobs or chains for each of your boat ignition and door keys. P-S. You do really nice work.
I’m concerned the oil pressure gauge isn’t working.
Thats a long run of hose with no check valve , When the pump shuts off , the water in the hose will sun back in the bilge, and start the pump again
FYI "point welds" are called "tack welds"
doood do you make this music!?! where can i buy it or listen to it some more i frickin love it!
I personally don't like how the bilge hose is ran. Seems like it would be super easy to get caught up in the drive shaft and really mess things up.
Is that the only bilge pump for the boat? It seems rather small for a boat that size and normally you would have multiple pumps. Have you had the Bayliner opened up? Just wondering what sort of top speed it has. You stated cruise speed on the Bayliner is 2000-2500 rpm. Is that on plane? Most boats this size that I have owned are not on plane at 2000 rpm. Closer to 3000 rpm for plane speed.
Your welding has come miles.
hi the copper bars or Busbar best plating for marine use
When’s the full restoration of this boat 💪💪
I can't wait the day we will see this yacht in a dry dock for sandblasting, to see that awful color on the hull replaced with quality paint!😀
Hi, I have a health and safety concern for your engine room- Have you checked the exhaust lagging to see if it is asbestos?
I work as a consultant in the asbestos industry in New Zealand and have seen lagging around exhaust pipes numerous times.
The thicker lagging on the section which leads to the outside of the boat looks suspicious. It is a major concern if the lagging is asbestos and it gets damaged.
Have you considered getting an asbestos check done for the lagging of the exhaust system?
How much dit bayliner cost...btw i have also a bayliner 1991 1800
There is a difference between a need and a want. Most Mega Yachts have a single tender called a rib. You should tell the people who donate to your vlog how much of their money goes to your "wants" an how much actually goes to your big "boat".
We did not get a look inside the engin compartment at the replaced engin?
Just ran across your video.. and wondered is the RPM speed wide open throttle or just your desired cruising speed. cause if that's as fast as she will wind up the prop could be the problem of not being able to get in reverse easily.. ( excessively difficult)... Im thinking it's too steep of a pitch... Water has too much influence on it.. cause WOT should be closer to 4000-4500
What boat are you piloting at the end of this video? I don’t remember you having one with a big white canopy???
Did you test the bilge pump??
How is the Ski boat treating you. Do they do any wake boarding out your way?
Hey mate, I've been following your channel for quite a while now - not only because of your awesome videos and the progress you make, which is very inspiring in itself, but also because you're anchoring in a place that is quite dear to me, besides the fact I haven't been there in quite a long time now. Co-owning a 1978 Sea Ray myself, I would love to meet in person once and exchange some ideas, tips and whatever there is to talk about at some point in the near future. Since our boat is a "project boat" of sorts in itself, maybe we can inspire each other? I'd love that. If you'd be happy with that as well, let's find a private way to exchange contact details.
Sincerely,
Jo
Is the gauge toast or does the engine have absolutely no oil pressure? And no charging amps?
When do you pull your boats for the winter.
.. and the saying is "peaches and cream" .
Oil pressure?
I dont think wago connectors are marine grade but im just an electrical apprentice what would i know?