In regards to cost, you didn't factor in Labor. Something as simple as acquiring multiple products vs a single product. Then of course there is the installation in which a single sheet of Quite Rock is way less effort / time consuming then the 3 products you're comparing it to. IMO - your two options compared in light of Total Cost and it is closer to $105 vs $95, and so still $10 per sheet more (which does add up) however now (IMO) well worth it. I do agree on your point that the 545 isn't needed, as one would have to already be investing a lot of Time & Money in Doors, Windows, Electrical outlets, and any other potential sound compromising aspect of the room in order to obtain the benefits of the 545 product. I personally would do 530 and take all the money saved to address all of those other sound compromising aspects of the room to their fullist...., not to mention BASS frequencies which is a topic all on to itself 🙂
@@soundproofyourstudio Well, not only do I have a Plan, but I have fully executed on it :). Step #2 - run all wiring through Smurf tubing located throughout the walls (ceiling and floor). Step #3 - seal / soundproof those entry points (will handle similar to an electrical outlet), Step #4 - bring in all the equipment and let the fun begin. So yeah, I'm in the mist of a dedicated Home Theater system as we speak.
Has anyone ever tried using cement boards like 1/2" tile backer board instead of drywall? If you had one layer of that and one layer of drywall it should add mass and also create a variance of density to absorb different frequencies of sound. I think this is why old fashioned lathe and plaster works way better than drywall, because the thickness variance and variability of the aggregate can absorb a wider range of frequencies... as opposed to drywall which is a uniform thickness and density throughout.
We used 5/8 on road facing walls with a green glue sandwich. It definitely improved the sound levels.... but the vast majority of sound come thru the windows. Put your money into hurricane windows or double windows or whatever you need or can do, before addressing walls. Windows are by far the biggest passers of sound into a room if you have a lot of street noise.
What's the best way to soundproof my townhome from noisy neighbors without tearing down the wall? Can I just apply greenglue and then add another layer of 5/8 in drywall?
Isn’t the point of quietrock that you save sq/ft and labor? They say that up front in their marketing. You really didn’t cover those points in your video. I mean if we didn’t care about losing room size or labor we would all just forget any of these fancy products and just frame double walls with commodity components.
I still don’t think it’s the best option to save on square footage and labor. A hat channel system will save more space and will soundproof better. These products seem more like a quick residential fix rather than a true studio quality solution.
I have several videos on door construction. It all comes down to a communicating door system that is airtight and has at least as much mass in the doors to match the mass of the walls the doors are on per square foot.
@@soundproofyourstudio Ok, cool I'll check it out. I have a question though. I'm going to be moving into a house that is pier and beam and doesn't have a concrete foundation. I'm wondering how this will effect room acoustics especially since I'll most likely be adding two subwoofers. I want to isolate as much as I can from the neighbors, but also worried about the bass having a bad interaction with the floor that is not concrete. Any thoughts or references would be greatly appreciated, thanks !
The prices on green glue have sky rocketed compared to what is shown in this video. a 5 gallon bucket is more like $400 a bucket. So 2 boards of 5/8 plus the green glue comes out to about $65 a board.
Great video. One thing not mentioned though would be labor and the cost of that labor if you're not DIYing. Adding only one sheet of quietrock vs 2 layers and greenglue. Seems like a lot less work.
Green glue is proven to be a joke product. It’s a waste of money. You want good results you need mass loaded vinyl, decouple the wall and use isolators, 2 5/8th inch drywall or 2 layers of quite rock 530 or 500, and pudgy your outlets or better yet use wall mounted outlets.
FREE Soundproofing Workshop: www.soundproofyourstudio.com/workshop
1 1/2 minutes of preamble before we address the topic :(
Thanks for watching. I put chapter markers in for people who want to skip ahead.
funny how majority of sound guys can make anything out to be negative. I know, I am one.
In regards to cost, you didn't factor in Labor. Something as simple as acquiring multiple products vs a single product. Then of course there is the installation in which a single sheet of Quite Rock is way less effort / time consuming then the 3 products you're comparing it to. IMO - your two options compared in light of Total Cost and it is closer to $105 vs $95, and so still $10 per sheet more (which does add up) however now (IMO) well worth it. I do agree on your point that the 545 isn't needed, as one would have to already be investing a lot of Time & Money in Doors, Windows, Electrical outlets, and any other potential sound compromising aspect of the room in order to obtain the benefits of the 545 product. I personally would do 530 and take all the money saved to address all of those other sound compromising aspects of the room to their fullist...., not to mention BASS frequencies which is a topic all on to itself 🙂
Sounds like you have a good plan.
@@soundproofyourstudio Well, not only do I have a Plan, but I have fully executed on it :). Step #2 - run all wiring through Smurf tubing located throughout the walls (ceiling and floor). Step #3 - seal / soundproof those entry points (will handle similar to an electrical outlet), Step #4 - bring in all the equipment and let the fun begin. So yeah, I'm in the mist of a dedicated Home Theater system as we speak.
Has anyone ever tried using cement boards like 1/2" tile backer board instead of drywall? If you had one layer of that and one layer of drywall it should add mass and also create a variance of density to absorb different frequencies of sound. I think this is why old fashioned lathe and plaster works way better than drywall, because the thickness variance and variability of the aggregate can absorb a wider range of frequencies... as opposed to drywall which is a uniform thickness and density throughout.
I would focus on mass more so than varying thicknesses. The heavier the better.
I was comparing Quietrock to Hardie Backer yesterday and wondering the same thing.
We used 5/8 on road facing walls with a green glue sandwich. It definitely improved the sound levels.... but the vast majority of sound come thru the windows. Put your money into hurricane windows or double windows or whatever you need or can do, before addressing walls. Windows are by far the biggest passers of sound into a room if you have a lot of street noise.
What's the best way to soundproof my townhome from noisy neighbors without tearing down the wall?
Can I just apply greenglue and then add another layer of 5/8 in drywall?
How about using QuiteRock 545 on basement ceiling where there is impact noise from kids playing.
You can if you want a simple solution that costs way more. You pay for the ease of use over two layers of drywall and green glue.
Isn’t the point of quietrock that you save sq/ft and labor? They say that up front in their marketing. You really didn’t cover those points in your video. I mean if we didn’t care about losing room size or labor we would all just forget any of these fancy products and just frame double walls with commodity components.
I still don’t think it’s the best option to save on square footage and labor. A hat channel system will save more space and will soundproof better. These products seem more like a quick residential fix rather than a true studio quality solution.
if quite rock is not the most cost efficient sound proof way, what else do you recommend?
2 layers of 5/8" drywall
@@soundproofyourstudio thank you! just the regular drywall of this size?
So the question is what is the best sound proof door ?
I have several videos on door construction. It all comes down to a communicating door system that is airtight and has at least as much mass in the doors to match the mass of the walls the doors are on per square foot.
@@soundproofyourstudio Ok, cool I'll check it out. I have a question though. I'm going to be moving into a house that is pier and beam and doesn't have a concrete foundation. I'm wondering how this will effect room acoustics especially since I'll most likely be adding two subwoofers. I want to isolate as much as I can from the neighbors, but also worried about the bass having a bad interaction with the floor that is not concrete. Any thoughts or references would be greatly appreciated, thanks !
The prices on green glue have sky rocketed compared to what is shown in this video. a 5 gallon bucket is more like $400 a bucket. So 2 boards of 5/8 plus the green glue comes out to about $65 a board.
A dang inflation! Yeah most prices have gone way up. I wonder if you could find used green glue. It's hard to use every last bit on a project.
@@soundproofyourstudio Yeah inflation killing us all!! Still $65-$70 is better than roughly $135 a board for the Quiet Rock...
Great video. One thing not mentioned though would be labor and the cost of that labor if you're not DIYing. Adding only one sheet of quietrock vs 2 layers and greenglue. Seems like a lot less work.
Agreed! Labor may be less which would bring down the cost.
@E N you would just need acoustic caulk to seal air gaps. Green glue makes that too, but they are different products. It's a bit confusing.
excellent video. very clear, thorough, and easy to listen to
Thanks for watching Ben!
Green glue is proven to be a joke product. It’s a waste of money. You want good results you need mass loaded vinyl, decouple the wall and use isolators, 2 5/8th inch drywall or 2 layers of quite rock 530 or 500, and pudgy your outlets or better yet use wall mounted outlets.
what do you think about rockwool as a additional sound insulation.
@@travilpowell4086 I’ve not seen many videos where it out performs R13
@@trollzone1 thanks
Who told you it was a joke product?
@@soundproofyourstudio physics.