Do These Soundproofing Material Live Up to the HYPE?
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- Опубліковано 19 чер 2024
- Mass Loaded Vinyl and a lot of soundproofing material out there to chose from and in this video I'll talk about these types of sound proofing material and if they actually live up to the hype or, is it just snake oil and a waste of money?
I'll specifically talk about acoustic compound such as green glue, acoustic sealant, mass loaded vinyl, resilient channel, soundproofing drywall and go into details as to if you should buy these soundproof products or go with something else or another soundproofing method.
Links to the soundproofing products I talk about in this video. All links are from Amazon and are affiliate links which helps my content at no extra cost to you. Thank you!
MY AMAZON STOREFRONT - amzn.to/47kB5gr
1. Green Glue Noise Proofing Compound
Amazon - amzn.to/3qIZklR
2. Noise Proofing Sealant
Amazon - amzn.to/3j1iZgb
3. Indoor/Outdoor Carpet Glue 1 QUART
Amazon - amzn.to/3uDksuO
4. Mass Loaded Vinyl
Amazon - amzn.to/36zwZaN
Home Depot - homedepot.sjv.io/yX5OV
5. Resilient Channel
Amazon - amzn.to/3Rw6x34
6. Best Work Gloves - amzn.to/3K0wqpG
7. Small Tool Set - amzn.to/3Aph9f1
8. Short Ladder - amzn.to/3Atb80O
9. Safety Glasses - amzn.to/3AphuhN
10. 3m Reusable Face Mask - amzn.to/3AYjxbQ
Links to the three Playlist to soundproof your doors, windows and walls!
Soundproof Doors - • Door Soundproofing
Soundproof Windows - • Window Soundproofing
Soundproof Walls - • Soundproofing Walls
Articles to check out for any soundproofing projects! Especially the DIY!
1. Doors - soundproofguide.com/15-best-w...
2. Windows - soundproofguide.com/how-to-so...
3. Floors - soundproofguide.com/how-to-so...
4. Ceilings - soundproofguide.com/how-to-so...
Bear in mind that some of the links in this video are affiliate links, and if you go through them to make a purchase, I will earn a commission. Keep in mind that I link these companies and their products because of their quality and not because of the commission I receive from your purchases. The decision is yours, and whether or not you decide to buy something is completely up to you.
Copyright Disclaimer Under Section 107 of the Copyright Act 1976, allowance is made for "fair use" for purposes such as criticism, comment, news reporting, teaching, scholarship, and research. Fair use is a use permitted by copyright statute that might otherwise be infringing. Non-profit, educational, or personal use tips the balance in favor of fair use.
Consider SUBSCRIBING if you like this content! Thank You. - Навчання та стиль
Links for all the soundproofing material you'll need! - soundproofguide.com/recommended-soundproofing-products-material/
Memory Foam is extremely dense and heavy, is it a good sound insulator?
Great stuff! Really enjoyed this video and your other videos as well. Super informative. Thank you.
Thank You 🙏 😊
Really great video and super useful, I am going 5mm MLV for some residual low level road vibration. thanks
I went back to watch several of your vids to gain a broader perspective on different products. I've come to the conclusion that a simple, cost effective approach for upgrading an existing wall is to sandwich carpet glue between a second layer of 5/8" drywall and the existing wall. Use acoustic sealant on seams and edges and a putty pad to seal outlets. All of these materials are cheap compared to sound proofing specialized materials, and they are uncomplicated to install. This design provides mass and blocks air paths. Easy peasy.
You're correct! Thank you for watching and leaving a comment!! :)
Did you do this install? How did it work?
Sounds like no one here actually knows anything about "soundproofing". It's the clueless leading the clueless.
The only way to "sound proof" is to first understand what frequencies and amplitudes of the noise and how much you want to attenuate on the other side of the barrier. Then you have to choose a VARIETY of materials and use a sandwich design and there could be a WIDE variety of materials. Some of those materials could be Plywood, OSB, MLV, Sheetrock, Steel plate, concrete, MDF, etc. etc. but you really have to analyze the noise problem first and then talk to someone that actually knows how to choose which materials and the wall construction design.
I don't believe any "glue" is a barrier. It's just something to decouple one material from another, but there's other materials can be used to do the same thing that might be much less expensive.. I'd use layers of MLV (and there are different thicknesses on the market) combined with other materials. But "glue", especially the "green glue" is way too expensive and it really doesn't work that well compared to using a proper thickness MLV to decouple. But again, figure out the noise problem and then talk to someone that actually knows what they are talking about.
What about sonopan sheet behind the drywall?
MLV, can I put MLV directly to stud and add drywall or sonopan + drywall?
What’s the best way to treat a basement ceiling? I am planning to use Embassy Ceilings suspended tiles but what do I do above it? I was planning R30 fiberglass. Anything else? This will be a home theater with kitchen above. 2 sides are concrete foundation.
I recently moved into a semi-detached house, and immediately I started to hear a lot of noises coming from my neighbours.
Previous owners had rug all over the first and second floor but we replaced it for laminated floor (without any insulation underneath it, cause it was never a problem in previous places we lived in). I don't know if this change on the flooring messed things up cause previous owners and neighbours say they rarely hear anything.
I can hear conversations, music or sometimes their cellphone ringtones, but the most annoying noises are when they move furniture around, drop things to the floor or walk up and down the stairs (and even worse at 4 am).
I haven't found any company that can help me (I'm from Colombia and apparently is not a common problem), so I'm kinda lost. I think I've watched almost all your videos and they have been really helpful but I would like to know your opinion in this particular case.
My first thought was to detached and add mass to some bedrooms, but now I've been thinking the first thing should be adding mlv underneath the laminated floor... but will it reduce even a little the impact noises from the others houses?
Sorry if this is too long and a little confussing to read, my native language is not english.
I'm open to hear any suggestion.
Thank you! And keep the great work, this videos are really amazing!
Hi Ana, I’m sorry to hear about your troubles. I would definitely try the MLV under the laminate floor before proceeding with a big tear down project. Hope this helps, let me know if there’s more. 😊
What do you think of Spray Cork? Cork is known for great sound proofing capabilities, spray cork is basically cork sawdust put in paint and sprayed on with a paint sprayer. It is reported to be very expensive, and is reported to potentially have some good thermal properties as it may both seal some cracks, change emissivity, besides adding a very limited R value. From an acoustic standpoint, it can be sprayed inside a room changing texture of a wall and absorbing some sound waves.
I’ve never applied spray cork but I’ll definitely look into it! Thanks
I always smile when you say good things about Mass Loaded Vinyl. Never tried it though... and no idea about prices. I really want to do a double layer of dry wall and put mass loaded vinyl between the sheets of drywall. I think it will make an excellent difference to stop noises coming from my neighbors
Mass loaded vinyl definitely delivers! Best of luck! 😊
If it is not air tight mass does nothing. The brain will perceive the noise leaking as the same🤷🏻♂️ if you sound proof a room to 40db you will start to hear your ears ringing. The neighbors will sound the same, unless you add white noise. It’s like looking at the sky. Sound proofing only dims the light the stars/sounds you are trying to block become brighter and more distracting. 🤷🏻♂️ mass loaded vinyl would work great if you could wrap your neighbors in it airtight.. but then you have dead neighbors🤷🏻♂️😂😂 I guess what I am saying if you have a noisy object like a dish washer wrap it in mass loaded vinyl air tight, but if you mass load your wall, noise will find a way🤷🏻♂️
I need to just do a video🤷🏻♂️ I live in city dealing with bus lines, and 2am bar noise, road construction, and garbage trucks. I have always dreamed of a sound proof oasis. I Finally just said fuck it and I went all in $$$ on sound proofing. Double front doors witbv3 inch air gap. Double pane windows 4 inch air gap to 1/2 inch plexiglass window inserts. Concrete block Facade outer walls, then steel framed construction, r15 insulation, double 5/8 Sheetrock with noise damping glue in between layers. Concrete slab ceiling, with green garden above. The steel framed ceiling drops 6 inches with r 20 insulation single layer 5/8 sheet rock.
@@gabeshannon4819 I already hear my ears ringing. I have tinnitus. All I want to do is stop hearing my neighbours washing machine spinning, air conditioner motor noise and water pump vibration
@@Ladiozeveryone has tinnitus if you make the room quiet enough.. 🤷🏻♂️😂😂 this is funny because it’s true. If you can isolate those Objects rubber pads to stop vibration and wrap them in 2-3 layers 1/4 inch thick airtight mass loaded vinyl that would give you the results you want. Then all the space around them also becomes an air gap. Earplugs work with very little mass, by creating a very large sealed air gap. Mass is mass, cheapest mass is the best/Sheetrock when it comes to walls. The thing to splurge on is making your added wall layers as airtight as possible.
If you can hear the ringing in your ears then you live in a very quiet place, this makes your brain perceive those objects that bother you as louder. Use the spectrum app on your phone. If the sound is in the 60-125 hertz range you are trying to block 🤞🏼 good luck. Good news is if You can get that down to 60db it sounds like a white noise rumble, if you quite a person talking to 60 db it sounds like their still in the room with you. So you need to block those sounds down to below 40 db
I did not understand the more you block sound the loader it gets, until I spent thousands of dollars. I have a wall heater that blows air at around 55 db when it’s on I barely hear anything, when it’s off it sounds like why did I bother sound proofing, I hear more noises that I never even knew were there.
Thanks again!
I actually used green glue and sealant plus 2x ⅝ drywall on entire 1st flr ceiling of my 3 unit home 5 years ago. It works decently.
Thank you for the helpful video! Can you put green glue directly on top of MLV or do you need to seperate them between dry walls?
You can place it on MLV.
MLV only works if it hung like a membrane, don't sandwich it between drywall as it will be a waste of money. Done put green glue on MLV, that should go between drywall only. All the dedicated professional studio builders and designers have stated this about MLV and it has to be used
The dedicated thicker drywall will cost ½ the labor of screwing in drywall 2 x. That has to be considered in the pricing. But i remember it cost more like 5x greater than single drywall. (About the cost of 2 sheets plus green glue)
What are your thoughts on using sonopan?
The thing with green glue is that is does not harden but stays flexible which what makes it work, with the carpet glue does it harden over time? It is unfortunate that green glue has become that expensive, I did my drum room back in 2014 with it
Interesting video. Insightful. Thanks. In the UK two plasterboard sheets of 12mm or 9.5mm (£22) are cheaper than 15mm acoustic plasterboard (£24), and only a bit more than standard 15mm (£18). Would it be better to have two 9.5mm boards (19mm), MLV, then another two 9.5mm boards (19mm) rather than 15mm, mlv, 15mm? I know there are some diminishing returns to consider. Or is it overkill? Should I just stick with the £18 standard 15mm? Thanks
I would go with the two 15mm boards with the MLV between them. 😊
@@soundproofguide Thanks. Two boards of standard 15mm it is then. Less work too!
You can definitely add resilient channel on top of existing drywall, you just need studs to find studs...it's a recommended installation for Sonopan, also Rockwool is barley a 2 STC rating higher then fiberglass, why? As you said yourself it's all about mass and air movement, For the price difference you can just add more fibreglass a.k.a. mass....
Thanks for the info.
What about SONOPAN Soundproofing Panels ? I belive they are available in Canada only, but I've heard a lot of gud things abt them.
I’ve yet to use Sonopan. I’ve contacted them several times for more information but have never received a reply from
Them.
@@soundproofguide Don't you live in Canada? I thought they sold it at many major hardware stores there.
Need to insulate (not finish, no resilient channel) basement ceiling in old, old house with broad board floors with some gaps between boards. Noise rising up from steam boiler and water pump. Thinking mineral wool, but wondering if a second form of insulation is possible/needed. Something thin up against the floorboards before installing min wool? 5/8 drywall?
Mass loaded vinyl. 😊
Like to watch your channel! I looking for a 2 way solution for my walls. It is not a big living room (Europe everything is smaller) so I look for a wall that is slim. I look for a material(s) that reduce the voices off my neighbours, and also where I can fit water hoses in (like floor heating), for lower temperature off the heating system (more mass is heated). I can't find a standard solution. Do you have a good ideas?
Material like mass loaded vinyl would work well for homes that can’t afford to lose any square footage. You can place multiple layers of MLV and it still won’t be as thick as 5/8” drywall. Hope this helps!
@soundproof guide if you see this question, it's a quick one. i have an interior wall with zero insulation. do you think using loose-fill cellulose insulation in the wall cavities would have a noticable effect before performing the steps I've mentioned below for a cheap and easy version? Loose fill won't provide hardly any mass, so I question if it is even worth using. I think it only transforms the large voids of air between studs into tiny voids of air between small chunks of insulation.
Air is actually a better insulator than the loose fill insulation. So no, not worth it at all. Unless you have noise entering the cavity creating an echo, which I doubt that's the case. Best of luck.
Cellulose or fiberglass insulation better?
I was thinking of adding MSV over my existing drywall and maybe creating an accent wall over it with shiplap like panels. Perhaps I can do it with luxury vinyl planks. What is your thoughts on this method. Currently trying to sound dampen one wall that is adjacent to bathroom of a person who is hard of hearing.
My understanding is that you never want to sandwich mass loaded vinyl between sheets of drywall. It should be hung limp for best results.
@@thephysicslab exactly , too many youtubers are ill informed about how to use it properly
If i sound proof the party wall on both upstairs bedrooms can noise from neighbours still travel through the walls that seperate my bedrooms?
Question: Why doesn't green glue compound or carpet adhesive or MLV get squished down where the 2nd sheet of drywall is screwed through the first sheet and into the studs? This area is normally secured snugly. Wouldn't this squish the green glue out of this area and create a solid connection from opposite room's wall, through the stud, through the first drywall, and to the 2nd drywall? Any insight on this would be much appreciated. Thanks
It does get squished between the two layers of drywall. 😊
@@soundproofguide I'm guessing the amount of "squish" away from studs is less which allows the thickness/mass/elasticity of the material to be effective-ish. But at the studs, I would think the amount of pressure increases the "squish" to the point that the compound is so thin or completely pushed away. Wouldn't this negate the dampening effect of the rest of the wall?
But that is the point of this video, isn't it? Choose between $$$ or space and use the combination of materials that fit your needs. If you can't afford over 4" of space for 6 layers of drywall then use a 1/8" layer of MLV or goop to save space at the cost of $$$.
How do you stop foot fall noise from the room next door? Ro me this is the hardest sound to get rid of.
Does a resilient channel work the same if you have steel studs? Or do the steel studs act like a resilient channel themselves?
Yes it could still work on steel studs. The steel studs will not act as a resilient channel however. It’s the way the resilient channel is built that makes it effective.
nice thank you love your video
Thanks for watching!! 😊
@@soundproofguide Welcome
i build my window insert with 3 layers of sonopan..(one sonopan is about the same weight as one same size 3/8 inch plywood)..but i can still hear the sound come from outside..is it due to the small gap in between my insert and the window??? i believe my window insert is solid and dense enough...
The gap between the insert and the window would definitely be a cause for concern. Seal it up with some weatherstripping and you’ll definitely hear the difference! Best of luck!
Could finishing a room with thick ceramic tiles be an all in one solution? they themselves could be the heavy mass loaded material that bounces back and also absorbs sound, and also don't have to paint because you can pick the look of the ceramic to fit the room design, do you agree? to make it effective the tile would have to be glued with carpet glue and if there is a way to leave an air gap even better, or perhaps wall/insulating foam/ceramic?
😐 the only comment without reply 😓
Speaking from my experience. I live in seattle on a busy street with a bus stop. Bars closing on weekend can have a lot of people talking outside my place. Lots of different frequencies to try and block. I have took the sound down from average 60 db and peaks of 84db to average 47 db peaks of 60db. The 60 to 125 hertz frequency is were the sound still peaks in my place. That noise is very hard to block, I have very thick multi layered walls with damping glue, I doubled the front door with 3 inch air gap. I have double pane windows with 4 inch air gap I got 1/2 inch plexiglass window inserts on all windows. The window inserts cost $$$, I was super bummed by the performance vs cost at first.
Sorry I am rambling, but it is through this experience I am going to try and answer the question.
The plexiglass panels were so heavy and rigid they were not perfectly sealed. walls and window openings are not straight. I had to frame the windows to hold the plexiglass panels properly so they wouldn’t crush the seals. This would be the problem with ceramic tiles I think, fitting them perfectly and sealing them would be a nightmare. I don’t think the performance vs the cost and complication of install would be worth it🤷🏻♂️
@@gabeshannon4819 hey tysm for the reply, this helps me to rethink and build a better insulation strategy
Hey! Sorry for the delay. Notably, ceramic tile is a particularly hard surface floor covering which makes it substantially more difficult to soundproof than a wood, laminate or vinyl flooring. Even with the use of a good quality acoustical membrane, results (acoustical ratings) equivalent to other floor coverings cannot be expected.
Great Vid! Sonopan?
I’ll have to spend more time with that product BUT from what I hear, it’s legit!
@@soundproofguide From what you hear? Or don't hear! HAHAHA Seriously, I'm currently building my home office with it and so far other than throwing off all the measurements for the covering drywall its pretty good
Sound clips with reselient channel can be installed on top of existing drywall
You can also make sound clips for a minuscule fraction of the price of most that are available.
Cool 😎 thx
haven't seen everything from you but never heard you tell about box in box
Please elaborate 😊
What about cork?
Cork is good! I’ll make a video about that product soon!
The best way to soundproof is: *to live in the middle of nowhere!*
But seriously, I just installed resilient channel (yes, installed correctly, screws did not go through to wood joists)as well as one layer of Rockwool Safe and Sound in my basement ceiling to REDUCE sound transmission.
The keyword is REDUCE. I know that lots of sound travels through the HVAC and noise is never 100% eliminated, but reduced.
I still hear the thumping from upstairs and chairs dragging on ceramic floors above. I could probably hear loud voices too, but quiet conversation is not heard. I'd guess that it reduced the sound in half, so it was well worth the time and expense.
Thanks for sharing! 😊
How can I contact you for advice?
Info@soundproofguide.com 😎
Hahaha. Green glue. 😂😂😂😂
Rubbery Carpet glue works Better
Do brick walls are good sound proof?