C4 Transmission Extension Housing Bushing Replacement Without Removing the Housing
Вставка
- Опубліковано 30 вер 2024
- DISCLAIMER: These videos show my way of doing things. Don't necessarily follow my advice, I could be wrong. You are responsible for your actions. Not me.
66 Mustang C4 extension housing bushing replacement excessive play.
Yoke part number is C5DZ-4841-A
ATP Bushing part number is ATP FB-12 - Amazon affiliate link amzn.to/3nEuKHW
ATP Seal part number is ATP HO-9 - Amazon affiliate link amzn.to/3yEowOY
Would this cause a noticeable vibration while driving? My 67 Mustang has a vibration around 55-60 MPH. I'm thinking this may be the cause of it
Tail shaft bushing
Didn't even show removal or installation of the bushing. Wasted my time.
It was explained and shown on the bench in detail and impossible to film under the car.
I started laughing when you said it took a lot of research for me only 6 hours 😁 6.2L Engine 2WD 1999 F450 F550 Rear Transfer Case Slip Yoke 1480, OE/OEM Part Number C3-3-839, SPICER #3-3-6021X, (1.375" brg cap dia) (D), 30/31 Spline (31 spline with 1 dead spline = 30 spline), Outside yoke dimension 4.438" (E), Center of u joint to end of spline 6.870" (J), Hub Diameter 1.885" (R), Spline OD 1.390"
I am going through the same dilemma with my 67 Fairlane. I see you had a good amount of yoke shaft hanging out of the trans. Mine is 1 3/4+ at ride height. Yours looks about the same? I thought it was too much, wrong shaft but yours looks similar. Now hunting that tool.
66 mutang
Excellent video as I am now in the middle of replacing the seal in my 66 mustang c4 tailshaft. Because of your video, I checked the yoke and the bushing and they both need replacing. Just on the surface, your yoke looks like the same as mine, so can you supply a part number to get me started? Probably just going to pull the tailshaft housing versus trying to find the bushing tool you used. Thanks!
Can this make a BAD paint mixer type driveline vibration, or only a clunk when accelerating or decelerating? I have a new crate engine, pro-built C4, and have a nasty vibration when the car is driven forward from idle to 3000 rpm, or til whenever I let off to be honest. I don't hear or feel any clunking. From the flat part of the yoke to the edge of the tailhousing, I have about 1.5 inches of the machined part of the yoke sticking out. The car is old, the trans has been replaced three times at least, and I don't even know if I have the right length of driveshaft for the transmission/axle. U joints are brand new Spicers, and I am trying HARD to make this car smooth out. There IS side to side play with the driveshaft fully installed. If I hold the brake while sitting and run the engine RPM up to the point of convertor stall, there is no vibration. ONLY when I am moving forward with my foot on the gas. IE: driveshaft and rear axle moving.... PLEASE# answer if you can. Thanks... GREAT video btw!!!
Also, I just took my driveshaft off to be completely redone. Mine looked a lot like yours, in the amount of yoke that was outside the housing. The amount of shaft showing at ride height is supposed to be about an inch. If that was fully installed your driveshaft may be too short like mine was. I had a VERY bad acceleration vibration. ANY time I gave it gas it was a bad paint mixer like vibration. The jury is still out if the new longer driveshaft solves the problem. I ALSO had a BAD angle for the driveshaft, which didn't help either. The shim I needed was 3.5 degrees, and that is still on the way to me.
Cool I think I’m about to do it too my yoke clunks when I push it up and down i don’t see the u joint moving but see the yoke moving up and down and have a vibration on acceleration from 10-50 im almost certain now after your video it’s that bushing thx
Just rewatched and read the description, so I have all the info I need! Thanks!
hi can you tell me what this gearbox out of.. thanks-
66 mustang
Is it OK to drive a vehicle for 500 miles that vibrates, and needs this repair? Until I can get it in the shop.
Depends on how bad it already is. Could damage the rear end pinion bearing or U joints.
@@mechtrician1 it vibrates around 25-40, then it kind of goes away. Most of the miles would be highway miles. 500 miles there, 500 back. The mechanic that looked at it said we'd be ok, but he also doesn't do the repair in his shop.
You don’t happen to know the tool number for the bushing puller and driver do you?
It’s in the video.
@@mechtrician1 I jumped the gun and asked the question without watching all the way to the end. Thanks for sharing
yours obviously flops around like a fish out of water but if you were to put a dial indicator on that stub as you wiggle it then how much movement is considered within spec?
Not sure if the manual shows the spec or not but I’d say no more than a few thou runout max. New, it will have none.
You mentioned it had a "clunk" off or on the gas, however, did it have a vibration?
@@dangerdavefreestyle no vibration, but it whined as well as clunked.
It could cause vibrations though, but mine didn’t.