This video is peak SFM. Title - Build a driveshaft. What's in the video - literally never actually building a driveshaft. That's why I fucking love this channel.
38 seconds: "some of you want to skip ... we don't do that here." You sir, are my hero. The engineering is fun. The dry sarcasm brings me back to every video!
"And if that's you....take your cursor, move it down to the timeline, and keep going to another channel, because we don't do that here!" Simple poetic brilliance!!
I'm a DIYer, and most certainly far from being an engineer, but I absolutely love that even professionals still have the same though process. Design something overly complicated and then realize that simpler is better. rinse and repeat.
Exactly! I freakin’ stopped caring about German cars when BMW put electric motors into the windshield wiper mechanism to push harder against the glass as the car’s speed increased. Still I was seduced by an Audi which I dearly loved driving until suddenly and with no warning every blessed thing not made of metal failed. Every electronic thingee, of which there are a thousand dozen. Every plastic bracket, spacer, hold down, lever (why do they make mechanical parts out of plastic?), linkage…. Never again.
@@allareasindex7984 Perfect example there. I love driving German cars, but I hate working on them. There is a reason that I have owned so many Japanese vehicles (specifically Toyota/Lexus). They often seem to be designed with a mechanic in mind. Many systems are quite simple.
@@RyanWithAviators I don't know, it seems like all the Japanese cars I've worked on, it's not that they're hard to work on, but you have to resign yourself to disassembling everything to the depth you need to get the part you're after. Like if you're replacing fuel injectors, you may have to remove the intake manifold to get to it, and remove the throttle body to get to that, and disconnect the coolant hoses to take the throttle body off, and remove the intake pipe to get the throttle body removed, and then remove the air filter and housing to get access to that pipe. German cars, there'll be one fastener, it requires a $3000 special tool to turn it, but if you turn it 14 degrees clockwise, push in and then 30 degrees anti-clockwise, the entire engine drops out.
14:03 I made a constant torque rotation device out of a coffee can bolted to the flange , string wound on the can and a calibrated weight on the string . The radius of the can and the weight define the torque it creates. The calibrated weight was a container of water. I adjusted the bearing preload until the constant torque rotation device could no longer unwind the string under gravity.
Guys, we're living the good old days right now. Any moment now Matt's gonna get the two billion subscribers he deserves and even though he's done an admirable job at containing his ego up till now, once the general public sees him like the genuine Rockstar he is, it's gonna be all lifestyle vlogs from there.
Matt: Some of you would be shocked how many things are engineered this way... Watching this channel has made me aware just how close we are to going full Madmax... and just how far a head of the curve you are.
Currently watching this at the engineering office (Oem supplier). I'm just about to head out and build some parts that are designed with the "mess around and find out" method, as analysis has proven insufficient at this product type so far.
I love when projects have subprojects inside of another project. One time I was welding a roll cage and my Mig welder broke down. After 4 hours I had the welder working, and then my house electrical didn’t like the welding. 3 weeks later I was able to finish welding that roll cage.
what are you talking about? have you ever done a project that doesnt involve 14 sub projects 4 layers deep? 7 of which dont end up need doing, and 4 that you absolutely hated every second of. do you even project bro?
I've re-sealed crush sleeve style pinions multiple times and done all of the methods, easiest and most repeatable is to mark the nut and flange, but torquing in stages and feeling drag has worked just as well - did it entirely by feel once then checked with a torque gauge and it was within 1ft/lb. You'd be amazed at how accurate a well calibrated brain can be.
Worth noting: driveshaft failure due to vibration modes like you described is a very common reason msnufacturers put a top speed limiter on a car, so it's very worth considering exactly why that limit was put in place if you are inclined to remove it.
I have made 2 drive shafts for my jeep. Front and rear. I used ends from the junk yard. Double cardans at the T case, cardans at the axle. 2" .120 wall for the front, 2.5" .25 wall for the rear. Worked well.
All hail the algorithm. I don't know a lot of engineers, but of the handful I do know there seems to be a point of plastic deformation in their mindset. They often start with a lot of CAD and maybe scale tests to figure out how something should be made but they all seem to eventually trust the process of "I dunno, let's build it and see what happens" and adjusting accordingly from there. Like guess-and -check math methodology but for building stuff. I think it's beautiful. As always, an absolute pleasure to watch this project progress sideways 😂Stuff definitely happened, but nothing really changed. #justprojectcarthings
Engineering by Destructive Testing was basically my first real engineering job out of school, start weak and build up until the part passes testing, fail early and learn from that.
When I was a young’n I made a quite long driveshaft for my ‘69 capri. I cut the old yoke welds out with an angle grinder and welded them back in on my garage floor. I used that suck it and see engineering method then and it worked out fine, I thrashed that beast around for 2 years with no vibration and no troubles.
I wish I could drive around my city doing you know…driving around city things, just to be sitting at a red light hearing the rumbles of an old 90s truck then look over at two mud tires and an old Viper lifted upon them knowing it’s not right yet somehow appears proper. Give this man a thumbs up and we both go our ways, him rumbling in the direction out of town towards the WV line that’s only 15 or so mins away. The funny part is how well this would fit in here and the lack of looks he’d prob get. I know I’d rock the shit out of it. Love the build man!
Loved your video, shenanigans, sarcasm and honesty. Especially the "Go down to the timeline, and keep on going to another channel!" Brilliant. You brought in one short video, 40-years' worth of hard knocks back into my mind.🤒
Your editing is always top notch! The way you can put together weeks of work in an informative and entertaining way, with a bunch of other clips thrown in too always keeps me coming back to your channel
There is a tool required to lock differential pinion flange when removing AND installing it, when installing it's absolutely essential to use to adjust the preload and measure the rotational torque.
What i did when i rebuilt my BMW 210mm differential which used a crush sleeve was check the ring gear backlash, the rotating torque of the pinion as well as the ring gear contact pattern while i slowly torque it with a impact, if i were you i would atleast pull the cover off the back of the diff and check to ensure there is atleast a few thou backlash.
Matt! An epic trick I learned 50 years ago in my restore-cheap-motorcycles days. Clean ANY rubber boot and then apply 100% Silicone Spray, wipe, wait, and repeat. That rubber boot will now be impervious to rot and cracking. 100% Silicone Spray ONLY! The sprays WITH Silicone do no work at all. Shock boots in SoCal were failing every year, and then never again! Keeps tires from cracking, too, even between the treads. Just be careful the first time around the block. Lol Lasts years and years. You will love the results and probably use it a LOT. Don't spray near surfaces to be painted, of course.
I am currently on a project to design and implement a new vision system for an inspection line at my plant. The number of times I have said "let's just fuck around and find out" instead of doing real engineering with positive results baffles me. Definitely my preferred approach to engineering.
I found a fun way to get the diff yoke off, I clamped a wood working sash clamp to the yoke and let the tail of the clamp rest on the body/chassis/floor/dirt then used a breaker bar on the nut. No wheels off, no hand break, quite quick and easy 👌 glad you got there in the end
@ 9.53, T6 heat treatment also does precipitation hardening that is not really reversible, doing this too much and the hardness falls off a cliff as the grain boundaries get overstretched. As to the remiander of the video, Aces; picked up some new information that I will probably never use (like my comment above) but that still puts me in my happy place.
On my Dana 45 the pinion yoke nut torque is actually very important. There is a crush sleeve behind the yoke that should be replaced every time it is torqued.
A Powerglide and a TH400 do not vary much in width, but length difference will range from 18 inches on a dragster-style Powerglide to 28 inches in a door car. A TH400 with a standard 4-inch extension housing measures 29.5 inches, although there are rare cases where a TH400 could be 34.5 or 38.5 inches.
Just built my own driveshaft with a slip joint and 6 bolt flange to attach my Audi 01E to my upside down ford 8.8 rear axle. Wasn't bad. Used the chassis to measure out of round and tack welded them together, then tig on a workbench
Hi. My name is also Matt & I love over-engineering parts just to throw them in the dumpster about the same time as buying the same thing off the shelf. Then somehow modifying the new part to match the old over-engineered part & also trashing it. Nice to meet you.
You mock welded tube vs DOM. DOM is rolled over, welded exactly that same. They just add the finishing touch to then draw it over a mandrel to smooth out the inside/outside weld.
DOM is usually also normalized or annealed, and the mandrel gives much tighter tolerances while aligning the grain structure and cold working it. Even when it's the same alloy (usually not), DOM is notably stronger, especially in bending. It's not just the same thing with the weld smoothed out.
The transmission slip gets pulled out 1", thats a golden rule for any car. Dont bolt the slip to the transmission not only is it a massive waste of time but if you put that flange on the back of the slip theres no way i can see it getting balanced correctly. Then from there have a center bearing on that same front shaft and a CV behind the bearing starting the rear shaft. The best way would probably be putting a flange as a preload for the bearing that also lets you hook up a ford style flanged CV. Then put a 1350 slip that'll connect up to the rear. 16 spline 1/2 inch diameter splines. Whatever you do just try to find someone to balance it or that CV won't last you a year and then you'll try to rebuild it and go insane. Any respectable driveshaft shop should beable to balance it but if you dont have one near you you might beable to find a tractor trailer shop that has a balancer it'll be better than nothing. Lastly make sure everythings phased correctly, meaning if you lay the shaft on the floor the u joint caps on the top should all face up perfectly straight. If you don't do that then all your u joints plus the center bearing will wear out too quickly.
The way you did it was smart. The 2 opposed u joints would have went bad very quickly. I learned this the hard way by lifting Jeeps with short drive shafts lol. When they come apart, it breaks the yoke, the trans, the rear axle, or any combination there of
You're an absolute madman to do all of this without a lift - surely you can apply your mad scientist powers to figure out how to get a lift into your garage! Makes me ashamed of myself how easily frustrated I get wrenching under my car without a lift on exponentially trivial jobs.
If you are reusing the crush sleeve you must torque it down more than before such that the flange crushes the sleeve further otherwise it'll be floating in the wind.
As a Chrysler tech I was told in school to mark pinion and nut then reinstall and go past your mark by a little bit like 10°ish. For seals they want you to reuse the crush sleeve but just go past where it was
That original slip yoke has a deep groove worn into it from the tail housings rear seal and seeing the dampness all around I'd swap in a new seal after I checked the end wobble or for play in the output shaft or yokes splines,which if there is any will result in premature seal wear as well as another seal groove in the new slip yoke...
Re the pinion flange nut. I had to do this on a commercial vehicle. There was too much windup between the wheel, which I left on the ground for resistance ,to the nut . I put a 4ft Stillson on the flange against the ground so the resistance was right where the socket was twisting. Needed a long cheater bar but I got it loose.
Put a shim between the crunch sleeve and front bearing and you’ve got a crunch sleeve that will crush again. Do the preload with the axles out and you’ll be fine. Used bearings about 10 inch pounds less than new.👍
About soldering frayed ends of cable in barrel. It can and it will pull loose. This is actually done (I think) with molten zinc. But even that can fail.
Ohh, in my old BMW M6, I used to shred the center driveshaft joint every 6 months or so. I fear for that U-joint. Happy to see you've used an alternative. I think. All I see are 2 possible points of failure.
I had a drive shaft made by a local truck maintenance facility for my street/strip drag car, and it lasted over ten years. They used the larger tubing and end caps along with the big universal joints, and the builder claimed it should handle 10,000 horsepower. It took over 7,000 RPM pulls with no vibration. And it only took one drunk driver to hit me in the middle of the night on my way home from a friends house, to ruin a good drive shaft...
I've rebuilt my Ford 8.8 diff swapping the ring and pinion and replacing everything including the bearings and races. Ford does the same thing with a crush washer but you shouldn't just take a chance by hammering on it with an impact. The reason for the crush washer is also to locate the pinion gear depth which now that you've done all that you'll have to check the contact between the ring and pinion gears. I really hope you double check this or you could wind up ripping your gearing apart or binding everything up and breaking something else or again the ring or pinion or both. Sucks I didn't watch this video sooner so I could warn you or at least remind you if you already knew.
Funny... i couldn't get a Touareg drive shaft off trying the same methods you did. Jacked the car up, sawzalled the driveshaft in half, turned it sideways, put it on a raised jack, then lowered the car lol... was a total cluster, but by god, it came out.
I love it when the factory installs something with what I can only describe as infinite Newton-meters of torque. I think soft solder would've taken less force to remove
For all of the just do it and see what happens, the pinion setting was a surprising! My '64 Riviera came factory with a two piece driveshaft with the double cardan CV systems in it and they are a real pain when they fail (and the carrier bearing mount disintegrating). I'm going with a Q45 IRS so I can run a straight single shaft through the X-frame and get rid of the carrier bearing.
The crush washer will be fine. We couldn't get one to crush on an F250 rear axle and that was a 4 ft 3/4 drive torque wrench with 400 lbs on the end. We reused the old one.
Every video you post makes me stare at my e46 just sitting in my driveway making me reconsider my life choices before I begin to formulate a plan and then immediately stop and reconsider my life choices again and then go do something else.
The U-Joint angles does not have to be opposite directions to each other (transmission end down / rear axle end up) they can be to the same direction and they still cancel each other out. So you could have transmission end down and rear axle end more down, so you could have better angels at so much droop. Hopefully I explained it well enough, english is not my native language.
I'm always amazed at the amount of custom work you do. You make your life harder for it but it's very entertaining. And the end result is unique, and that's cool!
Gotta be honest I wasnt excited about a driveshaft video... but its Superfast Matt. I was not disappointed and got exactly what I truly expected, organized chaos! 😂👍
I love this video because I struggled with this same m220 axle because i threw the same one under my 2002 jeep. Watching You struggle with the same things i did felt great lmao
Thanks for the video. I sum how conviced myself that I would be seeing a whole video just about making a drive shaft, WOW. Forgot I was watching this channel. Still love watching this.
We all kicked hell out of the old simple drive system off road so I’m sure it will be okay. The front diff nose on a classic rangerover points up. At cruise height the UJ cancel each other out. It’s a neat bodge :D
This video is peak SFM.
Title - Build a driveshaft.
What's in the video - literally never actually building a driveshaft.
That's why I fucking love this channel.
Kind of like having b00bs in the thumbnail.
Bruh
amen
i believe this title vs. the content are a statement about working on cars. and i love it
@@seattlefiorelli- It truly is, SFM is the best. Lol funny seeing you in the comments here. Hope all is well sir! -Brent
“We’re not finishing the driveshaft today are we?” No. No, we are not.
This is happening with my projects, too...
Seems like superfastmatt isn't really fast anymore lol
@@zupra5638his engineering efforts are..
Why did you feel the need to comment that? We just watched the same video and heard him say it ourselves…
@@Mrtweet81 The same reason people feel compelled to comment "Super easy. Barely and inconvenience!"
38 seconds: "some of you want to skip ... we don't do that here." You sir, are my hero. The engineering is fun. The dry sarcasm brings me back to every video!
Soooo funny lmao almost died
Really nice looking shaft Matt.
Super Shaft Matt
Its sort, but girthy.
@@drdremdit's so heavy
@@drdremd It's ok...he's a man of steel.
I bet you say that to all the boys
I’m taking a shot of tequila everytime he says ‘driveshaft’…
Careful 😂
Did you survive?
Someone call an ambulance
Gonna need some new underwear and pants
R.I.P. 😔
0:00 "I am getting dangerously close to driving this beautiful V10 monstrosity..."
... 15:04
never change Matt, never change
"we don't do that here" most epic line ever.
Very sfm
I was disappointed when I heard this…. But it all became clear 10s from the end. It makes perfect sense now, and completely understandable.
"And if that's you....take your cursor, move it down to the timeline, and keep going to another channel, because we don't do that here!" Simple poetic brilliance!!
I'm a DIYer, and most certainly far from being an engineer, but I absolutely love that even professionals still have the same though process. Design something overly complicated and then realize that simpler is better. rinse and repeat.
Unfortunately, German engineers never have that second realization and final outcome.
Exactly! I freakin’ stopped caring about German cars when BMW put electric motors into the windshield wiper mechanism to push harder against the glass as the car’s speed increased. Still I was seduced by an Audi which I dearly loved driving until suddenly and with no warning every blessed thing not made of metal failed. Every electronic thingee, of which there are a thousand dozen. Every plastic bracket, spacer, hold down, lever (why do they make mechanical parts out of plastic?), linkage…. Never again.
@@allareasindex7984 Perfect example there. I love driving German cars, but I hate working on them. There is a reason that I have owned so many Japanese vehicles (specifically Toyota/Lexus). They often seem to be designed with a mechanic in mind. Many systems are quite simple.
@@RyanWithAviators I don't know, it seems like all the Japanese cars I've worked on, it's not that they're hard to work on, but you have to resign yourself to disassembling everything to the depth you need to get the part you're after. Like if you're replacing fuel injectors, you may have to remove the intake manifold to get to it, and remove the throttle body to get to that, and disconnect the coolant hoses to take the throttle body off, and remove the intake pipe to get the throttle body removed, and then remove the air filter and housing to get access to that pipe. German cars, there'll be one fastener, it requires a $3000 special tool to turn it, but if you turn it 14 degrees clockwise, push in and then 30 degrees anti-clockwise, the entire engine drops out.
14:03 I made a constant torque rotation device out of a coffee can bolted to the flange , string wound on the can and a calibrated weight on the string . The radius of the can and the weight define the torque it creates.
The calibrated weight was a container of water.
I adjusted the bearing preload until the constant torque rotation device could no longer unwind the string under gravity.
TLDR: You're supposed to do this and you're supposed to do that but I literally would never do this or that for that matter.
Guys, we're living the good old days right now. Any moment now Matt's gonna get the two billion subscribers he deserves and even though he's done an admirable job at containing his ego up till now, once the general public sees him like the genuine Rockstar he is, it's gonna be all lifestyle vlogs from there.
As a ME student, I love watching your design, fab, and test process. It makes me feel understood that others work in organized chaos.
Matt: Some of you would be shocked how many things are engineered this way...
Watching this channel has made me aware just how close we are to going full Madmax... and just how far a head of the curve you are.
Un-fortunately I don't think the future "sucks nitro" but this is the "ducks guts" made from a "piece from here and a piece from there"
"Mattmax"
FTFY
Currently watching this at the engineering office (Oem supplier). I'm just about to head out and build some parts that are designed with the "mess around and find out" method, as analysis has proven insufficient at this product type so far.
@@merr6267sometimes you have to find out why something hasn't been done that way before. Then you have data to work with.
You have become my favorite UA-cam channel. The fine mix between sarcasm and engineering is the perfect recipe for entertainment. Keep it up!
I love when projects have subprojects inside of another project. One time I was welding a roll cage and my Mig welder broke down. After 4 hours I had the welder working, and then my house electrical didn’t like the welding. 3 weeks later I was able to finish welding that roll cage.
what are you talking about?
have you ever done a project that doesnt involve 14 sub projects 4 layers deep?
7 of which dont end up need doing, and 4 that you absolutely hated every second of.
do you even project bro?
I've re-sealed crush sleeve style pinions multiple times and done all of the methods, easiest and most repeatable is to mark the nut and flange, but torquing in stages and feeling drag has worked just as well - did it entirely by feel once then checked with a torque gauge and it was within 1ft/lb. You'd be amazed at how accurate a well calibrated brain can be.
I love the extreme lack of enthusiasm with how far the project has gotten, good luck with this man, amazing work so far!
Entertainment and frustration... all in one neat package.
A neat package he made himself, not store bought.
I love that you continue to use "lathe" as a verb just to mess with people.
Worth noting: driveshaft failure due to vibration modes like you described is a very common reason msnufacturers put a top speed limiter on a car, so it's very worth considering exactly why that limit was put in place if you are inclined to remove it.
Or tires
The manner by which you crushed the haters right out of the gate was akin to a hole shot. Your reaction time is stellar.
"Because we don't do that here..." Brilliant!
After everything that's happened on this build, hearing you utter the words "I'm feeling lucky" is equal parts inspiring and terrifying :|
I’m glad we’re watching a true professional doing absolutely incredibly precise and meticulously well planned-out work 👍
I love your channel because it makes my projects look like they're easy.
I have made 2 drive shafts for my jeep. Front and rear. I used ends from the junk yard. Double cardans at the T case, cardans at the axle. 2" .120 wall for the front, 2.5" .25 wall for the rear.
Worked well.
All hail the algorithm.
I don't know a lot of engineers, but of the handful I do know there seems to be a point of plastic deformation in their mindset. They often start with a lot of CAD and maybe scale tests to figure out how something should be made but they all seem to eventually trust the process of "I dunno, let's build it and see what happens" and adjusting accordingly from there. Like guess-and -check math methodology but for building stuff. I think it's beautiful.
As always, an absolute pleasure to watch this project progress sideways 😂Stuff definitely happened, but nothing really changed. #justprojectcarthings
Im only sora into cars and i hot out of engineering years ago and this is still one of my favourite channels, matt is a character.
Noone can accuse him of losing his mind, since he clearly never knew it's location to begin with.🤠 We're proud of ya Matt.
Engineering by Destructive Testing was basically my first real engineering job out of school, start weak and build up until the part passes testing, fail early and learn from that.
When I was a young’n I made a quite long driveshaft for my ‘69 capri. I cut the old yoke welds out with an angle grinder and welded them back in on my garage floor. I used that suck it and see engineering method then and it worked out fine, I thrashed that beast around for 2 years with no vibration and no troubles.
Been having a rough go and this is honestly exactly what I needed to make it a bit longer. Thanks, Matt.
I wish I could drive around my city doing you know…driving around city things, just to be sitting at a red light hearing the rumbles of an old 90s truck then look over at two mud tires and an old Viper lifted upon them knowing it’s not right yet somehow appears proper. Give this man a thumbs up and we both go our ways, him rumbling in the direction out of town towards the WV line that’s only 15 or so mins away. The funny part is how well this would fit in here and the lack of looks he’d prob get. I know I’d rock the shit out of it. Love the build man!
I appreciate your ability to show how hard building a car like this actually is in real life.
11:12 Gotcha! It's five cylinders long
Loved your video, shenanigans, sarcasm and honesty. Especially the "Go down to the timeline, and keep on going to another channel!" Brilliant. You brought in one short video, 40-years' worth of hard knocks back into my mind.🤒
Your editing is always top notch! The way you can put together weeks of work in an informative and entertaining way, with a bunch of other clips thrown in too always keeps me coming back to your channel
I love how your builds go exactly like mine. Start on one thing and end up having to do 30 other things and none of it gets done.
There is a tool required to lock differential pinion flange when removing AND installing it, when installing it's absolutely essential to use to adjust the preload and measure the rotational torque.
What i did when i rebuilt my BMW 210mm differential which used a crush sleeve was check the ring gear backlash, the rotating torque of the pinion as well as the ring gear contact pattern while i slowly torque it with a impact, if i were you i would atleast pull the cover off the back of the diff and check to ensure there is atleast a few thou backlash.
Matt! An epic trick I learned 50 years ago in my restore-cheap-motorcycles days. Clean ANY rubber boot and then apply 100% Silicone Spray, wipe, wait, and repeat. That rubber boot will now be impervious to rot and cracking. 100% Silicone Spray ONLY! The sprays WITH Silicone do no work at all. Shock boots in SoCal were failing every year, and then never again! Keeps tires from cracking, too, even between the treads. Just be careful the first time around the block. Lol Lasts years and years. You will love the results and probably use it a LOT. Don't spray near surfaces to be painted, of course.
You have managed to, with an artisan’s skill, craft a blend of cynicism and sarcasm second to none. And I love it.
I am currently on a project to design and implement a new vision system for an inspection line at my plant. The number of times I have said "let's just fuck around and find out" instead of doing real engineering with positive results baffles me. Definitely my preferred approach to engineering.
i love that matt is the one guy in the internet to explain why project cars are never really finished lol... love the vids man
“We’re not finishing the driveshaft today, are we?” Hahahahahahahaaaa..... Multi talented man, including STAND UP COMEDIAN!!!
I found a fun way to get the diff yoke off, I clamped a wood working sash clamp to the yoke and let the tail of the clamp rest on the body/chassis/floor/dirt then used a breaker bar on the nut. No wheels off, no hand break, quite quick and easy 👌 glad you got there in the end
@ 9.53, T6 heat treatment also does precipitation hardening that is not really reversible, doing this too much and the hardness falls off a cliff as the grain boundaries get overstretched.
As to the remiander of the video, Aces; picked up some new information that I will probably never use (like my comment above) but that still puts me in my happy place.
On my Dana 45 the pinion yoke nut torque is actually very important. There is a crush sleeve behind the yoke that should be replaced every time it is torqued.
A Powerglide and a TH400 do not vary much in width, but length difference will range from 18 inches on a dragster-style Powerglide to 28 inches in a door car. A TH400 with a standard 4-inch extension housing measures 29.5 inches, although there are rare cases where a TH400 could be 34.5 or 38.5 inches.
Just built my own driveshaft with a slip joint and 6 bolt flange to attach my Audi 01E to my upside down ford 8.8 rear axle. Wasn't bad. Used the chassis to measure out of round and tack welded them together, then tig on a workbench
Hi. My name is also Matt & I love over-engineering parts just to throw them in the dumpster about the same time as buying the same thing off the shelf. Then somehow modifying the new part to match the old over-engineered part & also trashing it. Nice to meet you.
You mock welded tube vs DOM. DOM is rolled over, welded exactly that same. They just add the finishing touch to then draw it over a mandrel to smooth out the inside/outside weld.
DOM is usually also normalized or annealed, and the mandrel gives much tighter tolerances while aligning the grain structure and cold working it. Even when it's the same alloy (usually not), DOM is notably stronger, especially in bending. It's not just the same thing with the weld smoothed out.
The transmission slip gets pulled out 1", thats a golden rule for any car. Dont bolt the slip to the transmission not only is it a massive waste of time but if you put that flange on the back of the slip theres no way i can see it getting balanced correctly.
Then from there have a center bearing on that same front shaft and a CV behind the bearing starting the rear shaft. The best way would probably be putting a flange as a preload for the bearing that also lets you hook up a ford style flanged CV.
Then put a 1350 slip that'll connect up to the rear. 16 spline 1/2 inch diameter splines.
Whatever you do just try to find someone to balance it or that CV won't last you a year and then you'll try to rebuild it and go insane. Any respectable driveshaft shop should beable to balance it but if you dont have one near you you might beable to find a tractor trailer shop that has a balancer it'll be better than nothing.
Lastly make sure everythings phased correctly, meaning if you lay the shaft on the floor the u joint caps on the top should all face up perfectly straight. If you don't do that then all your u joints plus the center bearing will wear out too quickly.
The way you did it was smart. The 2 opposed u joints would have went bad very quickly. I learned this the hard way by lifting Jeeps with short drive shafts lol. When they come apart, it breaks the yoke, the trans, the rear axle, or any combination there of
This is one of the channels i just immediately fell in love with - the sort of love that doesn't always last. In this case, I think it was meant to be
You're an absolute madman to do all of this without a lift - surely you can apply your mad scientist powers to figure out how to get a lift into your garage! Makes me ashamed of myself how easily frustrated I get wrenching under my car without a lift on exponentially trivial jobs.
If you are reusing the crush sleeve you must torque it down more than before such that the flange crushes the sleeve further otherwise it'll be floating in the wind.
As a Chrysler tech I was told in school to mark pinion and nut then reinstall and go past your mark by a little bit like 10°ish. For seals they want you to reuse the crush sleeve but just go past where it was
That original slip yoke has a deep groove worn into it from the tail housings rear seal and seeing the dampness all around I'd swap in a new seal after I checked the end wobble or for play in the output shaft or yokes splines,which if there is any will result in premature seal wear as well as another seal groove in the new slip yoke...
Re the pinion flange nut. I had to do this on a commercial vehicle. There was too much windup between the wheel, which I left on the ground for resistance ,to the nut . I put a 4ft Stillson on the flange against the ground so the resistance was right where the socket was twisting. Needed a long cheater bar but I got it loose.
Put a shim between the crunch sleeve and front bearing and you’ve got a crunch sleeve that will crush again. Do the preload with the axles out and you’ll be fine. Used bearings about 10 inch pounds less than new.👍
About soldering frayed ends of cable in barrel. It can and it will pull loose. This is actually done (I think) with molten zinc. But even that can fail.
"while we're at it" is why my projects move forward at a glacial pace...
Ohh, in my old BMW M6, I used to shred the center driveshaft joint every 6 months or so. I fear for that U-joint. Happy to see you've used an alternative. I think. All I see are 2 possible points of failure.
I had a drive shaft made by a local truck maintenance facility for my street/strip drag car, and it lasted over ten years.
They used the larger tubing and end caps along with the big universal joints, and the builder claimed it should handle 10,000 horsepower. It took over 7,000 RPM pulls with no vibration.
And it only took one drunk driver to hit me in the middle of the night on my way home from a friends house, to ruin a good drive shaft...
This channel is the definition of "while you're in there". We all start out doing DIY mechanics thinking a job is simple.
I've rebuilt my Ford 8.8 diff swapping the ring and pinion and replacing everything including the bearings and races. Ford does the same thing with a crush washer but you shouldn't just take a chance by hammering on it with an impact. The reason for the crush washer is also to locate the pinion gear depth which now that you've done all that you'll have to check the contact between the ring and pinion gears.
I really hope you double check this or you could wind up ripping your gearing apart or binding everything up and breaking something else or again the ring or pinion or both. Sucks I didn't watch this video sooner so I could warn you or at least remind you if you already knew.
Excellent video explaining how to do something that isn't done. Love it. TY SuperfastMatt! All hail the algorithm!
This channel is the exact opposite of "How to draw an owl: draw two circles ,now draw the rest of the fucking owl".
I love it.
Moments like 0:45 are exactly why this channel can not be beat for car builds and garage shenanigans
Funny... i couldn't get a Touareg drive shaft off trying the same methods you did. Jacked the car up, sawzalled the driveshaft in half, turned it sideways, put it on a raised jack, then lowered the car lol... was a total cluster, but by god, it came out.
I love it when the factory installs something with what I can only describe as infinite Newton-meters of torque.
I think soft solder would've taken less force to remove
For all of the just do it and see what happens, the pinion setting was a surprising!
My '64 Riviera came factory with a two piece driveshaft with the double cardan CV systems in it and they are a real pain when they fail (and the carrier bearing mount disintegrating). I'm going with a Q45 IRS so I can run a straight single shaft through the X-frame and get rid of the carrier bearing.
This single episode summarized all the ingredients of your entire channel perfectly. Well done.
The crush washer will be fine. We couldn't get one to crush on an F250 rear axle and that was a 4 ft 3/4 drive torque wrench with 400 lbs on the end. We reused the old one.
I am like a junkie waiting for my next fix on this series.
Thank you again for your time and effort!
"Everything is a spring" should be the first lesson in engineering..
Every video you post makes me stare at my e46 just sitting in my driveway making me reconsider my life choices before I begin to formulate a plan and then immediately stop and reconsider my life choices again and then go do something else.
Ya, I know these feels. Same affliction here, but, the e39 variant 8[
The pure joy of engineering your own death trap step by step and never completely finish building it. This is the definition of the project car.
You’re voice over always reminds me of Warren Miller ski films from the 80’s. That’s a good thing.
The U-Joint angles does not have to be opposite directions to each other (transmission end down / rear axle end up) they can be to the same direction and they still cancel each other out. So you could have transmission end down and rear axle end more down, so you could have better angels at so much droop. Hopefully I explained it well enough, english is not my native language.
I flew through a stop sign on my motor bike once, when the end pulled out of my repaired front cable. Yes, fray it before soldering!
Great job on the video Matt! Thanks for making it.
I'm always amazed at the amount of custom work you do. You make your life harder for it but it's very entertaining. And the end result is unique, and that's cool!
For angle issues it’s possible to use a cv joint on a slip yoke style transmission
For whatever it's worth, I'm impressed with this channel with or without the algorithm's consent.
Gotta be honest I wasnt excited about a driveshaft video... but its Superfast Matt. I was not disappointed and got exactly what I truly expected, organized chaos!
😂👍
I love this video because I struggled with this same m220 axle because i threw the same one under my 2002 jeep. Watching You struggle with the same things i did felt great lmao
Just a thought. Thompson Constant Velocity Joints. In case you run into problem with your U joints. These things are amazing to behold.
Thanks for the video.
I sum how conviced myself that I would be seeing a whole video just about making a drive shaft, WOW. Forgot I was watching this channel.
Still love watching this.
I simply love your vids and the way you decide to do the progress, it's just really good to watch
We all kicked hell out of the old simple drive system off road so I’m sure it will be okay. The front diff nose on a classic rangerover points up. At cruise height the UJ cancel each other out. It’s a neat bodge :D
This driveshaft may look like a bunch of sideprojects, but it's actually just the best driveshaft in existence.
So glad you posted this today, I was in need! Lol.. And BTW, fantastic information all packaged in top notch entertainment!!
I'm actually *only* here for the garage shenanigans
SOME of us would be SHOCKED how much was just engineered the easiest way and it works, but some of us are absolutely NOT.
Brilliant Matt - Algorithm hailed
Thank you for inspiring me to start so many new projects! (and not feel guilty about ever finishing them, 6 cars and counting...)
Already have all the parts picked out to make my V10 Impreza driveshaft properly myself. 😁 Basically the same thing, right? 😂