Detailers Are Polishing Paint The Wrong Way (Do This Instead)
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- Опубліковано 14 лип 2023
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I'm not a pro detailer and only work on a couple cars including my own, but I always enjoy your informative videos. Thanks!
Great tips, I think people get too stuck on details they have heard from other people and forget they can also find what works for them. It all comes down to experience. You can watch a ton of UA-cam videos, you can read articles, but it all comes down to doing it and getting the result you want. Cheers!
Hii Gil been following you for several years. I am so proud of you, you grinded away and grown your business .I have worked hard my entire life , grinded away over forty years lol. I admire you and your dedication to achieving your goals. I applaud you for your success , and I wish you the best. You are truly an inspiration to me. Many more healthy , prosperous years to you , family and friends !
Oye, I am proud to see someone that looks like me progress through this MATRIX! You provide business knowledge and detailing tips for those who are detailing their personal or for a business. AWESOME; keep up the work.
Loving you work and simple approach to your jobs. Time is money for sure. But you’re still providing an amazing end result. In fact this is exactly how I do cars as well. Divide doors into two for cutting and polishing. Bonnet into 3 for cutting and 2 for polishing. Same for roof Trunk usually in 1or 2
Detail Groove always coming up with the best content !
Exactly how i approach certain jobs, i go after major damages first either with wool and compound or wet sanding,only on the damaged area. then i polish the whole car is a similar fashion as in the video. i managed to save 2 hrs while doing a suv and get very good results.. of course harder paint is a different animal too@ 🙂 The Free guide is Awesome ...Thank You so much !!
Absolutely awesome technique if you get to polish indoors! I’ll get there one day😂
Thank you for taking the time to help the community sir.
Another tip to speed this up you spend a lot of time wiping the residue off. Have a bucket full of water and ONR with a rag soaking and a second wipe off rag. Finish compounding the entire hood, grab the rag from the onr, clean the hood, dry with the second rag and now your crystal clear ready for next step. If your only polishing, this is even better now your ready for panel prep and protection. The onr does such a better job of getting the polish removed and secondly acts another cleaning step to remove dust and compound from all the crevices between panels
Goat
Would the polymers in ONR affect a coating application after ?
@@Detailpops no, that’s why you use a panel prep after. If the panel prep can remove waxes and sealants it can remove the little bit of polymers in onr. Yvan Lacroix uses this technique with his rinseless product too
@@chantzmartin9666 ah dope 👊🏻
Bro intellectual af, gonna try this
as a weekend warrior i work most of the time on 6to 10 year old cars sometimes older. Ive never done those panels in sections except roof and bonnet, because the results as you explain are pretty good so dont bother and keep on working. most of the times i have a car for a few hours so i cant focus on small sections. although the onr bucket as told in a other comment is really fabulous an speeds the proces even more
I really appreciate these efficiency videos… I don’t own a detailing business but I maintain my car and my GF’s car at professional level, and she gets pissed when I take forever on our cars lol
I agree with the larger area if you have shade and it's not too hot. I've been doing it since I started because it work's, also if you use products that have a longer work time you're not loading up your pad ever couple of minutes. MAD RESPECT FROM EAST LONG BEACH 💯
I like your method of removing dried compound. That's my rookie problem. Thanks Sir.
I've watched tons of videos about polishing and you've done the best I've seen so far while explaining what you're doing.
Yo I recommend this guy 3:42 nothing but real truth keep it coming bro
A tip I picked up was to wash your pads when you have time (brush and spray kit) and to use a mist of pad conditioner before and sometimes during your polish. Chemical guys sell some good cleaner and conditioner.
Something iv been playing with is combining same brand compounds and polishes on my pad for a 1 step. I usually put 4 tiny dots on my pad during my passes. So for example i start with 3 small dots of 3D 520(polish) with 1 dot of 3D 510(compound). If i need more cut then 2 dots of 510 and 2 dots of 520. And tweek as needes
I always do large sections, I just did a fiat 500 and the only panels I did split into 2 sections were the doors and rear hatch I use more compound and it’s harder on pads but it definitely saves time. Also if you plan on applying a coating after, wipe off the compound then use a second towel to go over it with panel prep and move on and once your done you can go right into coating.
Yesterday I was working on a 20 year old BMW 7 series with like 5.5 Mil of clear coat and this haze kept happening to me 🤦🏻♂️ took up a lot of my time trying to wipe it off … you just pmo thank you !! 🤯🙏🏼
I love 3D one with uro-fiber 50/50 pads with this technique, you can leave the film and go over it again with a refining step .
I have been doing larger sections for this reason. Cool surfaces let's you have room. Outside is bad when it's hot
Yes as the other comment said use ONR. I just did I my Camry and after doing a section I just did a quick spray of ONR on the worked section to keep it wet and let ONR encapsulate the product then I finished working the rest of the the panel and do a wipe down when done. Of course I could only do this in a garage out of the sun.
Yup, I had that issue with my Tahoe Limited on Friday.
Washed, clayed, Torx DA15 with v36. Mind I did this outside it was cloudy then the sun came out and it was 70 and max 80 when I was using the compound. 1/3 of the good kept on drying fast and sticking.
I cleaned the pad and did another section and went back with the DA and the compound came off.
2nd time polishing my Tahoe came out good
Hey Oscar! What pad and polish combo are you using? Any speed recommendations on the ol’ Polisher? Thanks, keep on the keep!
Thank you for the info.
I am curious about the pads, polish and speed used for this video.
Detailing my own vehicle took 6 hours. My buddy saw it and wanted me to do his vehicle. I'm not spending another 6 hours. This is perfect r for me to try and be a bit more efficient one time
Will definitely try it this way mext time. How much compound/polish are you using on the pads to do such large areas?
If the car is decent and just needs a refresh do you use a Polish/finishing as a one step? Love the channel. Simplifies everything
Like your vids. I still rotary wool pad and finish with polisher. Both Rupes.
We tackle half hood at a time. Watching folks tackle a 12"x12" on a normal polish job- oof. We also never finish the polish on the hood that direction. We always leave the final pass going from the windshield to the front bumper. We never leave it from fender to fender. They way the light hits, it tends to look best.
Sounds like you're leaving holograms all over the place - it shouldn't matter which way the light hits...?
I completely agree that Rufus you’re using. I’m pretty sure it is and it looks like the first pad you were using was a Maguires microfiber with that said what was your charge for that I’m going to be doing a model X all black here in a bit and I’m charging 800 of course that’s including washing the vehicle, claying the vehicle. Then compounding the vehicle followed by the polish and then waxing it.
Great advice man!
nice ! did you use uro-fiber pads or wool for cutting stage?
I’ve learned that the very best product for bringing back paint is Finesse-it by 3M. I worked 33 years at a GM assembly plant and that’s what they use for final touch-ups on clear coat. It never leaves the mess that you show here.
Ive had good luck bringing back dried out compound like that with a spritz of pad conditioner too.
Great tip, Oscar! What compound and cutting pad do you go with normally and how many cutting pads would you need for one vehicle? Thanks
Flex DA for Safe removing swirl and light Scratch.
Makita rotary, For polishing great finish.
3M 1,2, for Flex DA compound
3M 3 for polish and clear and glossy result.
Lastly use AutoGlym wax for great result
Great video. Good real world advice
I have a 2021 Honda Accord Hybrid Touring, how would you clean the engine? I was thinking in getting a steamer and doing it.
I increased my efficiency by 30% simply using a pad washer (when compounding), this way you always start with a like new-pad, have better cutting and finishing abilities. It also helps to keep the temps and dusting down. It is vital to have the pad washer following you with on the car, or else you will lose a lot of time just with walking around the car. If a car is really trashed, I sometimes prefer to do compounding twice, just on a larger section in the second pass. But if the customer is not picky and I will leave it at one pass for compounding and polishing. I also save some time by using a 6 inch pad / polisher for doing the larger sections. You can cover just a little bit more surface area with that added size. I also don't do pad priming, im just spreading it 3-4 times and picking it up in the first pass with slightly tilting the machine up.
underrated comment. if you aint using a pad washer youre wasting a lot of timer and polish.
Most ust a wheel spur
Where can i get a pad washer send link i just bought my first machine yesterday 😂 im ready to start correcting my paint
Fresh pad installed in 10 seconds….
What speeds do you use to spread the polish/compound and then to finish? Thanks in advance
I don't have the luxury to work indoors and i have to work in the shade. So i always have to start in the evening hours and i also have to make sure it's not a windy day... Lol. I will do more of a larger area like your doing because i might run out of daylight.
How good it's the griots garage polisher?,, You recommend for a beginer detailer?,,, Regards from México!!
What compound did you use, and finishing polish did u use?
VERRY HONEST MAN
Good tips 👍 Good job on video 👍
Awesome job👍
I did a Rustoleum Turbo paint job on an old Ford Ranger and it actually looks decent all things considered but I would love to Smoot it out a bit for a better Shine. It's not clear coated. What would you recommend?
I agree you can just use compound and polish ..I don’t agree that shine will last very long after sun affects speacially in Cali sun heat ..because you didn’t sand .for the compound to really stick to the clear coat ..
I use a plastic knife to smooth out the polish while some some prefer to dot it out on the car . Rubbing,polishing and waxing. And we always protect the window plastic/rubber lists.
One thing to look out for is the amount of compound your using knowing how much you need and the amount of residue control when doing this, by far the best way to get something done for sure
important to clean the pads when doing larger sections at a time also!
Do you then top it off with wax after polishing to seal & protect the paint?
What brand is the towel that you’re using to remove the polishing compound ?
I guess I was doing that already. going over a quick pass but got the wax to wipe off easy
Hope you answer this
Menzerna 400. Cut then Menzerna 3-1 polish as second step. ?
Not for a detailing business but for car dealer quick cut polish and advertise to sell ?
Anyone know who makes the orange/purple towel he is using to wipe off the polish? 🤩
What polishing are you using ?
Do you use orbital or rotari ?
Totally agree. People don't realize how thin the clear coat is too. Everyone would like to get their cars 100% scratch (micro or other) free. Sometimes its not possible. 80% is good enough on a older vehicle or boat
Love your videos!
What cutting compound brand and polish you recommend?
Where do you recommend buying the pads? 🙏🏼
Hi bro can i ask what light/torch that is that your using
Do you work out at alphaland? What’s your recommended one step polisher right now?
So what speed are you runnin the polisher at?
Can you just sand with 800 or 1000 and reclear the hood? Without base coat? Have you ever done that?
How do I get vinyl wrap glue off? goo gone and alcohol barely worked.
Why are there still swirls and scratches though? 5:42
Is it because they're deeper than the compound can cut? This is happening to me after I compound and polish my black car.. It looks great, but under direct light there's tons of scratches ans swirls.. Idk how to fix it.. Should I wet sand it first.. With maybe 3k sand paper, then do compound and polish? Any help would be appreciated, thanks in advance!
Very good advice
So do you use cutting compound with the machine ? And then hand polish ? Like. Wax or Polish not sure what you guys call it in America
The "polish drying" is actually because of the oxidation and clear coat coming off and gumming up the polish and pad. In this case you would usually use more polish ( like a ton ) to let the excess polish carry and lift the clear coat that is rapidly coming off due to such a large area your working with. Think of it like buttering toast, you spread it across once ( one stroke ), where the knife initially hits is where there is a lot of butter, and where it ends there is very less if not any. The specific amount off polish on a pad will only get you a specific amount of area to work with. The more the aggressive correction the smaller working area and vice versa.
Use a waterless wash product in a bucket of water with a soft pad cleaning brush in between every panel so your not gumming up the pad or transferring clear coat/contaminant to another panel...Spin out the pad after cleaning the pad to get excess water off but keep the pad moist. Reapply compound and go to the next panel. A moist pad applies compound without drying it out and your buffer won't skip or bog down as much...Let the buffer do the work and don't apply pressure just guide it. Your pad should control the cut not down pressure ever! It heats the panel and the pad up drying out the compound faster. I use a waffle pad medium cut and a one step compound to get excellent results. I use a rotary and can cut and polish just as fast as a DA buffer with a long throw. Slower speed on the buffer and slower movement with the buffer itself cuts faster because the clear stays hard and cool while fast movement and high buffer speeds heat up the clear coat causing it to roll over instead of cutting off...Less dusting also...More polish is never the answer for getting a better cut...Correcting buffering skills and controlling heat is the way to get a high gloss, no haze, no swirl, finish.
It all depends on what brand of polish you use . Some flash too quick . Also . Not every car has same paint hardness.
@@petedetraglia4776How would you recommend a pad/compound combo for removing water spots that have etched in the clearcoat of a soft paint?
My car is a 2023 Honda so I assume it has soft clearcoat, not many deep scratches, just lots of marring and very bad water spot etchings on the paint and glass.
I am planning to get a 3D One compound, along with some wool or microfiber pads. I currently have a Shinemate 5” and 3” DA polishers, and the cut/polish/finish Foam pads that comes with the kit.
The cutting compound dried up.. Not the polish compound😂
@@LespartaAcid-wash the car first
Great tips!!
Which pads and polish are you using? Also are you using a DA polisher?
All depends on the quality of the paint all compounds and polishes and polish pads are the same from cheap to dear
What compound and pad did you use?
What clay mitt do you use (: ?
Great Tips, Mr. Groove
I will be polishing my Black Mazda6 soon, using Carpro Essence, do you usually use an ISO wipe or get straight to Ceramic Coating after?
I have read many people do it either way, what is your opinion?
If you want to put ceramic coating on, you definitely must use iso, otherwise you will leave a thin film of grease and coating won't bound to the lacquer strong as it should.
And is it a good or bad idea to polish by hand let it sit for 10 minutes then remove ? I’ve been doing it this way for years
I cut then polish by hand and works out fine
What machine are you using there?
Why my finishing or the 3rd product is black is that called polish its a bit tricky can someone help me its black and so like watery not like cutting polish
Yes ive done it like that before, many years ago.. There is no rule saying that you have to do 2 by 2 areas, half a hood in one go with my T Rex 1500 watt stone grinder powered 19mm orbit dynabrade random orbit and offset rotary tool can annihilate defects in a few minutes on some paints. 0-7500 rpm motor gives it a huge range of performance. Its a dinosaur by rupes mk3 standards but still very balanced considering its from 2008. it wont bog down in curvy areas like modern random orbitals. Obviously the smaller the area the more intense the cut and gloss will be but if doing an enhancement or a one step correction there is no time for 2 by 2 section polishing, that will kill your profits
Depends what kind of paint you’re working on
A damp microfiber should work nicely. I usually keep a spray bottle of water handy. Save the compound and electricity. Water is cheaper.
As you say, time is money for a professional.
I like your approach, try it and see if you can be more effective by working in a quicker way. If you can with 90% results, do it.
how do you stop wax from turning white in pitted areas like behind wheels or on the nose cone? It looks good then the next day every pit is white. Help
Good video Sir
So first is wax and than polish?
It would help if you mention : DA or Rotary? Force rotation or not? What pad for each step? What liquid?
If you're not going for multiple passes and best high % correction why not just use a one step compound/polish?
Sometimes the wool pad helps me but its normally the cut and polishing pad
I feel like increasing the work area from say a traditional 2ftx2ft area (compounding) to a 3ftx3ft area is achievable given the quality of today's products, that in itself would theoretically speed work up by 50% which is a big gain in efficiency, but going to anything larger is going to come with inevitable quality issues and as the product dries it's going to clog pads more, which, unless you've got 6-10 clean pads, is going to slow you down in the long run. Just my two cents worth, efficiency is great but it needs to be balanced with quality too.
Nice job man, but try the rotary with compound first, then go through your process 👌
Good stuff
so how to fix these things on the hood after polishing?
Agreed
I agree 100percent
Doing larger sections IS faster, yes, but I still try and go in smaller sections in case I have something in a pad I didn't notice. That way when I wipe it off, Ive only got a 2'x2' section of area Ill need to hit again instead of half a hood. I totally get the idea here, just overly cautious, I suppose.
The paint he’s working on looks soft. You couldn’t get that much cut and finish on hard paint with that footprint in 3 passes
Hyundai has soft paint, this would be impossible to do on harder paint (Mercedes or BMW).
@@mladenp__ agreed, I did a Mercedes S65 last year that absolutely required a super hard cutting pad and compound, followed by a medium wool polishing pad and liquid before two kamikaze ceramic coats (base and second layer) just to clear it all up.
Rotary start to finish is fastest. If you can avoid leaving tracks
What do you think about moist pads? Do they minimize dust? can you clean the pad and continue with the same pad for the car? thanks
yes clean the pad!