Detailers, another yankee invented word, l am old so l know all these idiot words, l remember 'Mugging' too, that started in the once great country before all started to be born with the brains of a rocking horse.
Hii Gil been following you for several years. I am so proud of you, you grinded away and grown your business .I have worked hard my entire life , grinded away over forty years lol. I admire you and your dedication to achieving your goals. I applaud you for your success , and I wish you the best. You are truly an inspiration to me. Many more healthy , prosperous years to you , family and friends !
Great tips, I think people get too stuck on details they have heard from other people and forget they can also find what works for them. It all comes down to experience. You can watch a ton of UA-cam videos, you can read articles, but it all comes down to doing it and getting the result you want. Cheers!
Another tip to speed this up you spend a lot of time wiping the residue off. Have a bucket full of water and ONR with a rag soaking and a second wipe off rag. Finish compounding the entire hood, grab the rag from the onr, clean the hood, dry with the second rag and now your crystal clear ready for next step. If your only polishing, this is even better now your ready for panel prep and protection. The onr does such a better job of getting the polish removed and secondly acts another cleaning step to remove dust and compound from all the crevices between panels
@@Detailpops no, that’s why you use a panel prep after. If the panel prep can remove waxes and sealants it can remove the little bit of polymers in onr. Yvan Lacroix uses this technique with his rinseless product too
Oye, I am proud to see someone that looks like me progress through this MATRIX! You provide business knowledge and detailing tips for those who are detailing their personal or for a business. AWESOME; keep up the work.
Exactly how i approach certain jobs, i go after major damages first either with wool and compound or wet sanding,only on the damaged area. then i polish the whole car is a similar fashion as in the video. i managed to save 2 hrs while doing a suv and get very good results.. of course harder paint is a different animal too@ 🙂 The Free guide is Awesome ...Thank You so much !!
I definitely agree💯👍.... I just recently purchased a car online out of Phoenix Arizona and man ol man they didn't show all of the hardtop convertible and trunk scratches that came from poor ownership from the previous owner/owners. I've had to learn to paint correct 😢. Now I've always cleaned polished and waxed my own vehicle's since learning how to drive. Paint correction is a whole new game. I've learned so much from a few UA-cam channels including your's which has helped me out tremendously and I value the information you guys give. Yes it's been a lot of work learning/understanding how it works to get the best results without spending more time than I care to say. For myself around 30hrs for the whole car but over a few weekends when I'm not at work. I've had to learn what polishing pads to use compounds and polishes and what brands work best. Well I think it turned out great after all the hard work and long days I put in but you can't put a price on perfection. Thank you for videos like this.😎⭐💯🙏 God Bless 🙏
Something iv been playing with is combining same brand compounds and polishes on my pad for a 1 step. I usually put 4 tiny dots on my pad during my passes. So for example i start with 3 small dots of 3D 520(polish) with 1 dot of 3D 510(compound). If i need more cut then 2 dots of 510 and 2 dots of 520. And tweek as needes
I agree with the larger area if you have shade and it's not too hot. I've been doing it since I started because it work's, also if you use products that have a longer work time you're not loading up your pad ever couple of minutes. MAD RESPECT FROM EAST LONG BEACH 💯
I’ve learned that the very best product for bringing back paint is Finesse-it by 3M. I worked 33 years at a GM assembly plant and that’s what they use for final touch-ups on clear coat. It never leaves the mess that you show here.
I really appreciate these efficiency videos… I don’t own a detailing business but I maintain my car and my GF’s car at professional level, and she gets pissed when I take forever on our cars lol
I always do large sections, I just did a fiat 500 and the only panels I did split into 2 sections were the doors and rear hatch I use more compound and it’s harder on pads but it definitely saves time. Also if you plan on applying a coating after, wipe off the compound then use a second towel to go over it with panel prep and move on and once your done you can go right into coating.
I increased my efficiency by 30% simply using a pad washer (when compounding), this way you always start with a like new-pad, have better cutting and finishing abilities. It also helps to keep the temps and dusting down. It is vital to have the pad washer following you with on the car, or else you will lose a lot of time just with walking around the car. If a car is really trashed, I sometimes prefer to do compounding twice, just on a larger section in the second pass. But if the customer is not picky and I will leave it at one pass for compounding and polishing. I also save some time by using a 6 inch pad / polisher for doing the larger sections. You can cover just a little bit more surface area with that added size. I also don't do pad priming, im just spreading it 3-4 times and picking it up in the first pass with slightly tilting the machine up.
We tackle half hood at a time. Watching folks tackle a 12"x12" on a normal polish job- oof. We also never finish the polish on the hood that direction. We always leave the final pass going from the windshield to the front bumper. We never leave it from fender to fender. They way the light hits, it tends to look best.
Yesterday I was working on a 20 year old BMW 7 series with like 5.5 Mil of clear coat and this haze kept happening to me 🤦🏻♂️ took up a lot of my time trying to wipe it off … you just pmo thank you !! 🤯🙏🏼
as a weekend warrior i work most of the time on 6to 10 year old cars sometimes older. Ive never done those panels in sections except roof and bonnet, because the results as you explain are pretty good so dont bother and keep on working. most of the times i have a car for a few hours so i cant focus on small sections. although the onr bucket as told in a other comment is really fabulous an speeds the proces even more
Totally agree. People don't realize how thin the clear coat is too. Everyone would like to get their cars 100% scratch (micro or other) free. Sometimes its not possible. 80% is good enough on a older vehicle or boat
One thing to look out for is the amount of compound your using knowing how much you need and the amount of residue control when doing this, by far the best way to get something done for sure
Detailing my own vehicle took 6 hours. My buddy saw it and wanted me to do his vehicle. I'm not spending another 6 hours. This is perfect r for me to try and be a bit more efficient one time
A tip I picked up was to wash your pads when you have time (brush and spray kit) and to use a mist of pad conditioner before and sometimes during your polish. Chemical guys sell some good cleaner and conditioner.
Yes as the other comment said use ONR. I just did I my Camry and after doing a section I just did a quick spray of ONR on the worked section to keep it wet and let ONR encapsulate the product then I finished working the rest of the the panel and do a wipe down when done. Of course I could only do this in a garage out of the sun.
The "polish drying" is actually because of the oxidation and clear coat coming off and gumming up the polish and pad. In this case you would usually use more polish ( like a ton ) to let the excess polish carry and lift the clear coat that is rapidly coming off due to such a large area your working with. Think of it like buttering toast, you spread it across once ( one stroke ), where the knife initially hits is where there is a lot of butter, and where it ends there is very less if not any. The specific amount off polish on a pad will only get you a specific amount of area to work with. The more the aggressive correction the smaller working area and vice versa.
Use a waterless wash product in a bucket of water with a soft pad cleaning brush in between every panel so your not gumming up the pad or transferring clear coat/contaminant to another panel...Spin out the pad after cleaning the pad to get excess water off but keep the pad moist. Reapply compound and go to the next panel. A moist pad applies compound without drying it out and your buffer won't skip or bog down as much...Let the buffer do the work and don't apply pressure just guide it. Your pad should control the cut not down pressure ever! It heats the panel and the pad up drying out the compound faster. I use a waffle pad medium cut and a one step compound to get excellent results. I use a rotary and can cut and polish just as fast as a DA buffer with a long throw. Slower speed on the buffer and slower movement with the buffer itself cuts faster because the clear stays hard and cool while fast movement and high buffer speeds heat up the clear coat causing it to roll over instead of cutting off...Less dusting also...More polish is never the answer for getting a better cut...Correcting buffering skills and controlling heat is the way to get a high gloss, no haze, no swirl, finish.
@@petedetraglia4776How would you recommend a pad/compound combo for removing water spots that have etched in the clearcoat of a soft paint? My car is a 2023 Honda so I assume it has soft clearcoat, not many deep scratches, just lots of marring and very bad water spot etchings on the paint and glass. I am planning to get a 3D One compound, along with some wool or microfiber pads. I currently have a Shinemate 5” and 3” DA polishers, and the cut/polish/finish Foam pads that comes with the kit.
Yup, I had that issue with my Tahoe Limited on Friday. Washed, clayed, Torx DA15 with v36. Mind I did this outside it was cloudy then the sun came out and it was 70 and max 80 when I was using the compound. 1/3 of the good kept on drying fast and sticking. I cleaned the pad and did another section and went back with the DA and the compound came off. 2nd time polishing my Tahoe came out good
Yeah I learned that on my first year of boat detailing the compound will set to the gelcoat. The oxidization literally holds the compound right to it .I just leave it there and go back over with a Da polisher and it takes it right off
I completely agree that Rufus you’re using. I’m pretty sure it is and it looks like the first pad you were using was a Maguires microfiber with that said what was your charge for that I’m going to be doing a model X all black here in a bit and I’m charging 800 of course that’s including washing the vehicle, claying the vehicle. Then compounding the vehicle followed by the polish and then waxing it.
Loving you work and simple approach to your jobs. Time is money for sure. But you’re still providing an amazing end result. In fact this is exactly how I do cars as well. Divide doors into two for cutting and polishing. Bonnet into 3 for cutting and 2 for polishing. Same for roof Trunk usually in 1or 2
I don't have the luxury to work indoors and i have to work in the shade. So i always have to start in the evening hours and i also have to make sure it's not a windy day... Lol. I will do more of a larger area like your doing because i might run out of daylight.
Lots of people in the replies are missing the point of working in smaller sections - heat control. Shorter polishing cycles prevent the pads from warming up to the point where the cut is significantly reduced. I'll work large sections if I'm doing a 1-step etc... But pads last a lot longer and cut better if you don't keep them spinning for long periods.
Question as I'm looking into getting a new Rupes polisher. Would it be better to stay corded or cordless? I know it's preference, but wondering which is actually better to use?
I use a plastic knife to smooth out the polish while some some prefer to dot it out on the car . Rubbing,polishing and waxing. And we always protect the window plastic/rubber lists.
My 2004 Chevy Malibu the hood roof and trunk are so badly oxidized yet the fenders and doors look good I'm using Turtle Wax heavy duty compound with a Sears Craftsman buffer and a wool pad! I found it easier to actually wet the panel first and give the Wolfpack a few sprays of water and then put the compound on is this wrong?
Doing larger sections IS faster, yes, but I still try and go in smaller sections in case I have something in a pad I didn't notice. That way when I wipe it off, Ive only got a 2'x2' section of area Ill need to hit again instead of half a hood. I totally get the idea here, just overly cautious, I suppose.
@@mladenp__ agreed, I did a Mercedes S65 last year that absolutely required a super hard cutting pad and compound, followed by a medium wool polishing pad and liquid before two kamikaze ceramic coats (base and second layer) just to clear it all up.
Yes ive done it like that before, many years ago.. There is no rule saying that you have to do 2 by 2 areas, half a hood in one go with my T Rex 1500 watt stone grinder powered 19mm orbit dynabrade random orbit and offset rotary tool can annihilate defects in a few minutes on some paints. 0-7500 rpm motor gives it a huge range of performance. Its a dinosaur by rupes mk3 standards but still very balanced considering its from 2008. it wont bog down in curvy areas like modern random orbitals. Obviously the smaller the area the more intense the cut and gloss will be but if doing an enhancement or a one step correction there is no time for 2 by 2 section polishing, that will kill your profits
As you say, time is money for a professional. I like your approach, try it and see if you can be more effective by working in a quicker way. If you can with 90% results, do it.
Flex DA for Safe removing swirl and light Scratch. Makita rotary, For polishing great finish. 3M 1,2, for Flex DA compound 3M 3 for polish and clear and glossy result. Lastly use AutoGlym wax for great result
My 35-year experience tip if you working indoors as you are like in a shop when you compound section by section do the whole compounding steps first follow that with the polishing steps all around the car second then the ceiling step all over the car. How to save you from going three steps section by section you can do three steps one at a time for the whole vehicle time saver. Just an FYI
Nice recommendations and advice Oscar. I do have a question if I can bother you for a minute. I do have a little polishing experience but I haven't done detailing and paint correction for a compensation in a very long time, although I did do it with a friend of mine as a side job. I have been detailing for 45+ years. I have a garage so weather or the sun isn't a problem for me. I have a RED Nissan 370Z but the paint is super soft. Probably the softest clear coat I have ever seen on any vehicle I personally have ever owned. And it's super thin so I have to be pretty careful as I have already had some clear coat failure in a few spots, probably from my own stupidity because I was chasing one little spot in several areas around the car and it came back to bite me in the long run because the clear coat failed. I am just wanting to know what you have come to find in your own experiences with super soft paint? Have you ever paint corrected or polished any 370Z's? What experience did you have when doing it? I am just curious. I'm not looking for instruction, again, I can polish just fine and I have experience with just about every polisher type there is from Micro polishers all the way up to rotary and everything in between along the DA spectrum of polishers. I am scratching my head because no matter what I do, I still have hazing on my red paint. I just can't seem to get it to properly finish out like other paint types I have worked on before. I have done every polish and pad combination I can think of to try and get the hazing to be eliminated or at least diminished down a bit. I have always been careful to use a soft finishing pad as the last step, yet I still have a lot of hazing all over the paint which baffles me because I thought it would wind up looking perfect after a complete polish session using several steps to try and achieve the best possible and most glossy finish I could do. What are your thoughts on it? Thank you for any advice based on your own experiences in detailing hundreds of various types of vehicles. Thanks again Oscar. I appreciate it.
I’ve always been taught to wipe in straight lines only that way if you’re marking the paint through the wiping process, you can tell because the marine marks will be straight lines after your paint correction but if you were going in circular motions, you can’t tell or it’s a little bit harder to tell anyway, if what you’re doing is caused by the pad towel or where it’s coming from exactly because it’s gonna be circular like the rest of your swirls.
Swirls aren't actually caused by circular motions. It's a misconception. Swirling is caused by just the sheer amount of light scratches and then the light hitting them head on causing it to look like swirls.
You can wipe polish and wax residue using circular motion. The paint is slick and the microfiber won't scratch it. However when i prep the panel i wipe with straight motions and with no weight on the microfiber bcs you can really find the small circular scratches on the new finish if you don't do it correctly. The narrow ones are not that bad.
I agree you can just use compound and polish ..I don’t agree that shine will last very long after sun affects speacially in Cali sun heat ..because you didn’t sand .for the compound to really stick to the clear coat ..
Manufacturers tell you no more than 6 pad sizes per polish. That’s simply so you stop & add more of their products hence using more. I buff exactly like you do and get great results
I have a 2025 suv and my side mirror got some scratches from a next car hitting my side mirror with they side mirror what buffing and pad and sauce I use to get it out I was going to use the mini spta
Why are there still swirls and scratches though? 5:42 Is it because they're deeper than the compound can cut? This is happening to me after I compound and polish my black car.. It looks great, but under direct light there's tons of scratches ans swirls.. Idk how to fix it.. Should I wet sand it first.. With maybe 3k sand paper, then do compound and polish? Any help would be appreciated, thanks in advance!
They correct faster but are not forgiving. Rotary polisher are like a steak knife while dual action polisher are like bread knives. I've never burnt an edge with a da polisher but I've seen so many vehicles where the Clear coat is compromised on the edges and burnt through.
Im a auto painter, learning ways to buff a car with a DA polisher, i usually cut 1500 then 3000 trizact, use a rotary buffer with 3m foam pad and then polish with black pad, my question is, which DA polisher pad do you recommend to use for cutting after fresh paint has been wet sanded up to 3000, currently using the 6 inch orange pad from harbor freight with 3m perfect it Ex Ac step A and B
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Detailers, another yankee invented word, l am old so l know all these idiot words, l remember 'Mugging' too, that started in the once great country before all started to be born with the brains of a rocking horse.
I'm not a pro detailer and only work on a couple cars including my own, but I always enjoy your informative videos. Thanks!
Hii Gil been following you for several years. I am so proud of you, you grinded away and grown your business .I have worked hard my entire life , grinded away over forty years lol. I admire you and your dedication to achieving your goals. I applaud you for your success , and I wish you the best. You are truly an inspiration to me. Many more healthy , prosperous years to you , family and friends !
Great tips, I think people get too stuck on details they have heard from other people and forget they can also find what works for them. It all comes down to experience. You can watch a ton of UA-cam videos, you can read articles, but it all comes down to doing it and getting the result you want. Cheers!
Exactly, even the same method done by different people won't have the same results
Another tip to speed this up you spend a lot of time wiping the residue off. Have a bucket full of water and ONR with a rag soaking and a second wipe off rag. Finish compounding the entire hood, grab the rag from the onr, clean the hood, dry with the second rag and now your crystal clear ready for next step. If your only polishing, this is even better now your ready for panel prep and protection. The onr does such a better job of getting the polish removed and secondly acts another cleaning step to remove dust and compound from all the crevices between panels
Goat
Would the polymers in ONR affect a coating application after ?
@@Detailpops no, that’s why you use a panel prep after. If the panel prep can remove waxes and sealants it can remove the little bit of polymers in onr. Yvan Lacroix uses this technique with his rinseless product too
@@chantzmartin9666 ah dope 👊🏻
Bro intellectual af, gonna try this
Oye, I am proud to see someone that looks like me progress through this MATRIX! You provide business knowledge and detailing tips for those who are detailing their personal or for a business. AWESOME; keep up the work.
Exactly how i approach certain jobs, i go after major damages first either with wool and compound or wet sanding,only on the damaged area. then i polish the whole car is a similar fashion as in the video. i managed to save 2 hrs while doing a suv and get very good results.. of course harder paint is a different animal too@ 🙂 The Free guide is Awesome ...Thank You so much !!
I definitely agree💯👍.... I just recently purchased a car online out of Phoenix Arizona and man ol man they didn't show all of the hardtop convertible and trunk scratches that came from poor ownership from the previous owner/owners. I've had to learn to paint correct 😢. Now I've always cleaned polished and waxed my own vehicle's since learning how to drive. Paint correction is a whole new game. I've learned so much from a few UA-cam channels including your's which has helped me out tremendously and I value the information you guys give. Yes it's been a lot of work learning/understanding how it works to get the best results without spending more time than I care to say. For myself around 30hrs for the whole car but over a few weekends when I'm not at work. I've had to learn what polishing pads to use compounds and polishes and what brands work best. Well I think it turned out great after all the hard work and long days I put in but you can't put a price on perfection. Thank you for videos like this.😎⭐💯🙏 God Bless 🙏
Absolutely awesome technique if you get to polish indoors! I’ll get there one day😂
Something iv been playing with is combining same brand compounds and polishes on my pad for a 1 step. I usually put 4 tiny dots on my pad during my passes. So for example i start with 3 small dots of 3D 520(polish) with 1 dot of 3D 510(compound). If i need more cut then 2 dots of 510 and 2 dots of 520. And tweek as needes
I agree with the larger area if you have shade and it's not too hot. I've been doing it since I started because it work's, also if you use products that have a longer work time you're not loading up your pad ever couple of minutes. MAD RESPECT FROM EAST LONG BEACH 💯
I’ve learned that the very best product for bringing back paint is Finesse-it by 3M. I worked 33 years at a GM assembly plant and that’s what they use for final touch-ups on clear coat. It never leaves the mess that you show here.
I really appreciate these efficiency videos… I don’t own a detailing business but I maintain my car and my GF’s car at professional level, and she gets pissed when I take forever on our cars lol
That’s my girl saying “your still not done” 🤣
@@geethanggg facts!
I always do large sections, I just did a fiat 500 and the only panels I did split into 2 sections were the doors and rear hatch I use more compound and it’s harder on pads but it definitely saves time. Also if you plan on applying a coating after, wipe off the compound then use a second towel to go over it with panel prep and move on and once your done you can go right into coating.
I increased my efficiency by 30% simply using a pad washer (when compounding), this way you always start with a like new-pad, have better cutting and finishing abilities. It also helps to keep the temps and dusting down. It is vital to have the pad washer following you with on the car, or else you will lose a lot of time just with walking around the car. If a car is really trashed, I sometimes prefer to do compounding twice, just on a larger section in the second pass. But if the customer is not picky and I will leave it at one pass for compounding and polishing. I also save some time by using a 6 inch pad / polisher for doing the larger sections. You can cover just a little bit more surface area with that added size. I also don't do pad priming, im just spreading it 3-4 times and picking it up in the first pass with slightly tilting the machine up.
underrated comment. if you aint using a pad washer youre wasting a lot of timer and polish.
Most ust a wheel spur
Where can i get a pad washer send link i just bought my first machine yesterday 😂 im ready to start correcting my paint
Fresh pad installed in 10 seconds….
We tackle half hood at a time. Watching folks tackle a 12"x12" on a normal polish job- oof. We also never finish the polish on the hood that direction. We always leave the final pass going from the windshield to the front bumper. We never leave it from fender to fender. They way the light hits, it tends to look best.
Sounds like you're leaving holograms all over the place - it shouldn't matter which way the light hits...?
What are you, a mechanic? Pfft.
I love 3D one with uro-fiber 50/50 pads with this technique, you can leave the film and go over it again with a refining step .
I've watched tons of videos about polishing and you've done the best I've seen so far while explaining what you're doing.
Detail Groove always coming up with the best content !
Yesterday I was working on a 20 year old BMW 7 series with like 5.5 Mil of clear coat and this haze kept happening to me 🤦🏻♂️ took up a lot of my time trying to wipe it off … you just pmo thank you !! 🤯🙏🏼
Totally agree. Love to learn tips from a seasoned professional with a lot of experience.
Thank you for taking the time to help the community sir.
I have been doing larger sections for this reason. Cool surfaces let's you have room. Outside is bad when it's hot
as a weekend warrior i work most of the time on 6to 10 year old cars sometimes older. Ive never done those panels in sections except roof and bonnet, because the results as you explain are pretty good so dont bother and keep on working. most of the times i have a car for a few hours so i cant focus on small sections. although the onr bucket as told in a other comment is really fabulous an speeds the proces even more
Totally agree. People don't realize how thin the clear coat is too. Everyone would like to get their cars 100% scratch (micro or other) free. Sometimes its not possible. 80% is good enough on a older vehicle or boat
One thing to look out for is the amount of compound your using knowing how much you need and the amount of residue control when doing this, by far the best way to get something done for sure
important to clean the pads when doing larger sections at a time also!
I like your method of removing dried compound. That's my rookie problem. Thanks Sir.
Detailing my own vehicle took 6 hours. My buddy saw it and wanted me to do his vehicle. I'm not spending another 6 hours. This is perfect r for me to try and be a bit more efficient one time
A tip I picked up was to wash your pads when you have time (brush and spray kit) and to use a mist of pad conditioner before and sometimes during your polish. Chemical guys sell some good cleaner and conditioner.
Yes as the other comment said use ONR. I just did I my Camry and after doing a section I just did a quick spray of ONR on the worked section to keep it wet and let ONR encapsulate the product then I finished working the rest of the the panel and do a wipe down when done. Of course I could only do this in a garage out of the sun.
I would've used a clay bar first to remove grime and then wax but it does look good.
The "polish drying" is actually because of the oxidation and clear coat coming off and gumming up the polish and pad. In this case you would usually use more polish ( like a ton ) to let the excess polish carry and lift the clear coat that is rapidly coming off due to such a large area your working with. Think of it like buttering toast, you spread it across once ( one stroke ), where the knife initially hits is where there is a lot of butter, and where it ends there is very less if not any. The specific amount off polish on a pad will only get you a specific amount of area to work with. The more the aggressive correction the smaller working area and vice versa.
Use a waterless wash product in a bucket of water with a soft pad cleaning brush in between every panel so your not gumming up the pad or transferring clear coat/contaminant to another panel...Spin out the pad after cleaning the pad to get excess water off but keep the pad moist. Reapply compound and go to the next panel. A moist pad applies compound without drying it out and your buffer won't skip or bog down as much...Let the buffer do the work and don't apply pressure just guide it. Your pad should control the cut not down pressure ever! It heats the panel and the pad up drying out the compound faster. I use a waffle pad medium cut and a one step compound to get excellent results. I use a rotary and can cut and polish just as fast as a DA buffer with a long throw. Slower speed on the buffer and slower movement with the buffer itself cuts faster because the clear stays hard and cool while fast movement and high buffer speeds heat up the clear coat causing it to roll over instead of cutting off...Less dusting also...More polish is never the answer for getting a better cut...Correcting buffering skills and controlling heat is the way to get a high gloss, no haze, no swirl, finish.
It all depends on what brand of polish you use . Some flash too quick . Also . Not every car has same paint hardness.
@@petedetraglia4776How would you recommend a pad/compound combo for removing water spots that have etched in the clearcoat of a soft paint?
My car is a 2023 Honda so I assume it has soft clearcoat, not many deep scratches, just lots of marring and very bad water spot etchings on the paint and glass.
I am planning to get a 3D One compound, along with some wool or microfiber pads. I currently have a Shinemate 5” and 3” DA polishers, and the cut/polish/finish Foam pads that comes with the kit.
The cutting compound dried up.. Not the polish compound😂
@@LespartaAcid-wash the car first
Yup, I had that issue with my Tahoe Limited on Friday.
Washed, clayed, Torx DA15 with v36. Mind I did this outside it was cloudy then the sun came out and it was 70 and max 80 when I was using the compound. 1/3 of the good kept on drying fast and sticking.
I cleaned the pad and did another section and went back with the DA and the compound came off.
2nd time polishing my Tahoe came out good
What are the two products that you used in this video
Yeah I learned that on my first year of boat detailing the compound will set to the gelcoat. The oxidization literally holds the compound right to it .I just leave it there and go back over with a Da polisher and it takes it right off
I completely agree that Rufus you’re using. I’m pretty sure it is and it looks like the first pad you were using was a Maguires microfiber with that said what was your charge for that I’m going to be doing a model X all black here in a bit and I’m charging 800 of course that’s including washing the vehicle, claying the vehicle. Then compounding the vehicle followed by the polish and then waxing it.
Hey Oscar! What pad and polish combo are you using? Any speed recommendations on the ol’ Polisher? Thanks, keep on the keep!
Loving you work and simple approach to your jobs. Time is money for sure. But you’re still providing an amazing end result. In fact this is exactly how I do cars as well. Divide doors into two for cutting and polishing. Bonnet into 3 for cutting and 2 for polishing. Same for roof Trunk usually in 1or 2
I don't have the luxury to work indoors and i have to work in the shade. So i always have to start in the evening hours and i also have to make sure it's not a windy day... Lol. I will do more of a larger area like your doing because i might run out of daylight.
Lots of people in the replies are missing the point of working in smaller sections - heat control.
Shorter polishing cycles prevent the pads from warming up to the point where the cut is significantly reduced.
I'll work large sections if I'm doing a 1-step etc... But pads last a lot longer and cut better if you don't keep them spinning for long periods.
A damp microfiber should work nicely. I usually keep a spray bottle of water handy. Save the compound and electricity. Water is cheaper.
Thanks helped out heaps as Ali work with a dealership
Another tip, don’t chase the defects. Deliver customer expectations not yours!
correct!
Question as I'm looking into getting a new Rupes polisher. Would it be better to stay corded or cordless? I know it's preference, but wondering which is actually better to use?
I use a plastic knife to smooth out the polish while some some prefer to dot it out on the car . Rubbing,polishing and waxing. And we always protect the window plastic/rubber lists.
What are the products you used
What compound are you using that has that much working time?
I looked up , how to ceramic coating, I didn’t see video from you, do you have such a video??
How do you fix damage clear coat? Do you sand?
what's that orange and purple towel you're using?
Very nice. Working in a cooler area is a tip.
What compound did you use, and finishing polish did u use?
Compound is polish.
My 2004 Chevy Malibu the hood roof and trunk are so badly oxidized yet the fenders and doors look good I'm using Turtle Wax heavy duty compound with a Sears Craftsman buffer and a wool pad! I found it easier to actually wet the panel first and give the Wolfpack a few sprays of water and then put the compound on is this wrong?
It would help if you mention : DA or Rotary? Force rotation or not? What pad for each step? What liquid?
Doing larger sections IS faster, yes, but I still try and go in smaller sections in case I have something in a pad I didn't notice. That way when I wipe it off, Ive only got a 2'x2' section of area Ill need to hit again instead of half a hood. I totally get the idea here, just overly cautious, I suppose.
The paint he’s working on looks soft. You couldn’t get that much cut and finish on hard paint with that footprint in 3 passes
Hyundai has soft paint, this would be impossible to do on harder paint (Mercedes or BMW).
@@mladenp__ agreed, I did a Mercedes S65 last year that absolutely required a super hard cutting pad and compound, followed by a medium wool polishing pad and liquid before two kamikaze ceramic coats (base and second layer) just to clear it all up.
What brand is the towel that you’re using to remove the polishing compound ?
What do you think about moist pads? Do they minimize dust? can you clean the pad and continue with the same pad for the car? thanks
yes clean the pad!
So first is wax and than polish?
No. Polish than wax.
Thank you for the info.
I am curious about the pads, polish and speed used for this video.
Where do you recommend buying the pads? 🙏🏼
Yes ive done it like that before, many years ago.. There is no rule saying that you have to do 2 by 2 areas, half a hood in one go with my T Rex 1500 watt stone grinder powered 19mm orbit dynabrade random orbit and offset rotary tool can annihilate defects in a few minutes on some paints. 0-7500 rpm motor gives it a huge range of performance. Its a dinosaur by rupes mk3 standards but still very balanced considering its from 2008. it wont bog down in curvy areas like modern random orbitals. Obviously the smaller the area the more intense the cut and gloss will be but if doing an enhancement or a one step correction there is no time for 2 by 2 section polishing, that will kill your profits
Name of compound snd polish please
How much does a detail like that usually cost?
nice ! did you use uro-fiber pads or wool for cutting stage?
If I buff and the paint is too dry I’ll leave there then throw polish over it to take it up. Is that fine?
Ive had good luck bringing back dried out compound like that with a spritz of pad conditioner too.
What compound and pad did you use?
As you say, time is money for a professional.
I like your approach, try it and see if you can be more effective by working in a quicker way. If you can with 90% results, do it.
If you're not going for multiple passes and best high % correction why not just use a one step compound/polish?
Which pads and polish are you using? Also are you using a DA polisher?
Great tip, Oscar! What compound and cutting pad do you go with normally and how many cutting pads would you need for one vehicle? Thanks
Flex DA for Safe removing swirl and light Scratch.
Makita rotary, For polishing great finish.
3M 1,2, for Flex DA compound
3M 3 for polish and clear and glossy result.
Lastly use AutoGlym wax for great result
My 35-year experience tip if you working indoors as you are like in a shop when you compound section by section do the whole compounding steps first follow that with the polishing steps all around the car second then the ceiling step all over the car. How to save you from going three steps section by section you can do three steps one at a time for the whole vehicle time saver. Just an FYI
Either way the results is what you're after in that I agree
What speeds do you use to spread the polish/compound and then to finish? Thanks in advance
Nice recommendations and advice Oscar. I do have a question if I can bother you for a minute. I do have a little polishing experience but I haven't done detailing and paint correction for a compensation in a very long time, although I did do it with a friend of mine as a side job. I have been detailing for 45+ years. I have a garage so weather or the sun isn't a problem for me. I have a RED Nissan 370Z but the paint is super soft. Probably the softest clear coat I have ever seen on any vehicle I personally have ever owned. And it's super thin so I have to be pretty careful as I have already had some clear coat failure in a few spots, probably from my own stupidity because I was chasing one little spot in several areas around the car and it came back to bite me in the long run because the clear coat failed. I am just wanting to know what you have come to find in your own experiences with super soft paint? Have you ever paint corrected or polished any 370Z's? What experience did you have when doing it? I am just curious. I'm not looking for instruction, again, I can polish just fine and I have experience with just about every polisher type there is from Micro polishers all the way up to rotary and everything in between along the DA spectrum of polishers. I am scratching my head because no matter what I do, I still have hazing on my red paint. I just can't seem to get it to properly finish out like other paint types I have worked on before. I have done every polish and pad combination I can think of to try and get the hazing to be eliminated or at least diminished down a bit. I have always been careful to use a soft finishing pad as the last step, yet I still have a lot of hazing all over the paint which baffles me because I thought it would wind up looking perfect after a complete polish session using several steps to try and achieve the best possible and most glossy finish I could do. What are your thoughts on it? Thank you for any advice based on your own experiences in detailing hundreds of various types of vehicles. Thanks again Oscar. I appreciate it.
What cutting compound brand and polish you recommend?
What machine are you using there?
Hi i am ruel from Philippines i cant download the ultimate guide can you please help me how thank you
How good it's the griots garage polisher?,, You recommend for a beginer detailer?,,, Regards from México!!
All depends on the quality of the paint all compounds and polishes and polish pads are the same from cheap to dear
Do it fast or do it right, you chose fast and it shows big time!
Do you use orbital or rotari ?
I have a 2021 Honda Accord Hybrid Touring, how would you clean the engine? I was thinking in getting a steamer and doing it.
I guess I was doing that already. going over a quick pass but got the wax to wipe off easy
I’ve always been taught to wipe in straight lines only that way if you’re marking the paint through the wiping process, you can tell because the marine marks will be straight lines after your paint correction but if you were going in circular motions, you can’t tell or it’s a little bit harder to tell anyway, if what you’re doing is caused by the pad towel or where it’s coming from exactly because it’s gonna be circular like the rest of your swirls.
Swirls aren't actually caused by circular motions. It's a misconception. Swirling is caused by just the sheer amount of light scratches and then the light hitting them head on causing it to look like swirls.
You can wipe polish and wax residue using circular motion. The paint is slick and the microfiber won't scratch it. However when i prep the panel i wipe with straight motions and with no weight on the microfiber bcs you can really find the small circular scratches on the new finish if you don't do it correctly. The narrow ones are not that bad.
I agree you can just use compound and polish ..I don’t agree that shine will last very long after sun affects speacially in Cali sun heat ..because you didn’t sand .for the compound to really stick to the clear coat ..
Doesnt need to sand. Just needs to finish up with a sealant.
Like your vids. I still rotary wool pad and finish with polisher. Both Rupes.
What polishing are you using ?
Manufacturers tell you no more than 6 pad sizes per polish. That’s simply so you stop & add more of their products hence using more. I buff exactly like you do and get great results
If the car is decent and just needs a refresh do you use a Polish/finishing as a one step? Love the channel. Simplifies everything
what if your car have super black paint and it starting to look dull and have swills
If the car has alot of oxidation should you sand or still compound?
Probably using a heavy compound with a wool pad might be enough. Sanding could be risky
Will definitely try it this way mext time. How much compound/polish are you using on the pads to do such large areas?
I have a 2025 suv and my side mirror got some scratches from a next car hitting my side mirror with they side mirror what buffing and pad and sauce I use to get it out I was going to use the mini spta
Why are there still swirls and scratches though? 5:42
Is it because they're deeper than the compound can cut? This is happening to me after I compound and polish my black car.. It looks great, but under direct light there's tons of scratches ans swirls.. Idk how to fix it.. Should I wet sand it first.. With maybe 3k sand paper, then do compound and polish? Any help would be appreciated, thanks in advance!
What’s your take on forced rotation polishers?
They correct faster but are not forgiving. Rotary polisher are like a steak knife while dual action polisher are like bread knives. I've never burnt an edge with a da polisher but I've seen so many vehicles where the Clear coat is compromised on the edges and burnt through.
there's a time and place for them all. We have a few rotarys but typically us DAs
Can you just sand with 800 or 1000 and reclear the hood? Without base coat? Have you ever done that?
How do I get vinyl wrap glue off? goo gone and alcohol barely worked.
So what speed are you runnin the polisher at?
so how to fix these things on the hood after polishing?
Im a auto painter, learning ways to buff a car with a DA polisher, i usually cut 1500 then 3000 trizact, use a rotary buffer with 3m foam pad and then polish with black pad, my question is, which DA polisher pad do you recommend to use for cutting after fresh paint has been wet sanded up to 3000, currently using the 6 inch orange pad from harbor freight with 3m perfect it Ex Ac step A and B
Use a Microfiber cutting pad and something strong like the Rupes Bigfoot 21
@@blazers12369 what brand microfiber u recommend?