I must confess I did use a saddle valve. I will take it out and replace it with something more appropriate. The only problem is I will have to solder a coupling where the valve pierced the copper pipe. Great instructional video.I am in Brampton, Ontario Canada
I'm not sure it meets code to install braided line behind/in walls and cabinets, as they are intended for use in "accessible locations". Also, for those reading who don't know this, stainless steel is just the armoring. The interior is PVC, rubber / EPDM, or sometimes PEX. I had a braided icemaker line behind a cabinet leak *years* after a nail from a piece of trim pierced it during a remodel. After a few years without issue, it slowly started to leak behind the wall and into the kitchen subfloor. By the time it was found damage was already done: the subflooring swelled, bulging upwards, necessitating mold abatement, floor replacement above and ceiling removal in a finished basement below. The source of the leak was found this way: first the vinyl flooring had to be removed, so the baseboard and cabinet trim covering it had to be removed first. When the trim was pulled from the wall in front of the braided line, this hiss of leaking water was immediately heard and it was a frantic rush to find the water shutoff!
U also see them for lav supply lines. Old moen faucets come.factory set like that with qtr inch copper tubes. If they arent long enough. You have to use a Male by male compression by male thread and connect the 3/8" braided supply. But yet for old school systems this copper tubing is very common.
Great video - a couple questions, and I apologize if you addressed it in the video already. (1) Is there any risk of rusting with the braided stainless steel? (2) And in your demonstration, was the water being filtered twice? Once by the filter under the cabinet and second in the refrigerator? Is that inefficient?
I have a brand new GE Frig that is leaking water on the floor. I think it is an internal leak and the leak stopped when I shut off the water supply to the ice maker. My supply line doesn't look like that.
To permanently cut off water line: My repair co guy cut off the icemaker line under the sink. He used a brass cap to start but that leaked in a few hours. He came back today and installed a copper piece that he had soldered the night before. Is this a standard and safe way to go?
Most of those hoses have complaints of plasticky or garden hose taste, and some people say it takes weeks or months to dissipate. Because of this, I ended up finding a pex ice maker kit, which worked really well to go from my access in the basement up to the fridge. It had the advantage of already wanting to be in a coil for behind the fridge.
You might be referring to old school or cheep manufacturers. When you look at the reviews on HD's web site for the ice maker braided lines, one of the questions asked was does it add a plastic hose taste, and numbers of people responded no bad taste.
@@jeffostroff Some brands are definitely worse than others, but almost all had some complaints, especially with longer lengths. I'm sure it would have gone away, but I didn't want to take the chance. It is something to look for when buying a specific product. The pex worked well with no issues in taste
I hate dealing with copper lines. Usually with those you hand tighten and then use pliers to go 1/2 turn past hand tighten, unless the manufacturer tells you otherwise.
To comply with plumbing codes, most cities require on like this homedepot.sjv.io/WxgkM with a hammer arrester on it. It solders onto 1/2" copper pipe and you route 1/2" standard copper pip inside the wall to the cold water pipe. If that is not feasible, use the dual valve on the cold water under the sink and just run the stainless steel 1/4" hose to the icemaker. One of the valves on that dual valve on the cold water supply should be 1/4".
Hi Jeff, I love your videos. Most recently that rocket light one was pretty artistic as well as helpful. ☺ When I get a new fridge, I plan to change out my 30 year old copper line, which appears to be behind alll the cabinets, in a space between the cabinets and the wall. It will need the 25 ft braided line. What I am asking is how do you fish the line through in this situation. Do you coupling together the new braided line to the old copper line at the sink end, and then pull on the copper at the fridge end to feed the braided line through behind the cabinets? Because there is a butler's closet halfway in between, keeping the line exposed is not an esthetic option.
I don't think you will have any luck with that, the braided hoses are much thicker than the copper line. There's always 2 ways to run water to the fridge: 1) If drywall is down, run pipes through the studs, then place an outlet on the wall, that is best case. 2) If you are not remodeling and not moving cabinets, the only choice is to use a HoleDozer set like we showed in this video, and drill holes on side of the cabinets in the very back of the cabinet. Then you feed the ice maker supply line through each hole to the next cabinet, then behind the stove, etc. We just did this on our friend's kitchen remodel in March, even routed the supply line through the corner lazy Susan cabinet.
Like using recessed outlet boxes for fridges, washing machines, etc....as really makes it look great; & functions perfect too! Also, gotta love “lipstick on a pig” 😉 (Really don’t get why 1/4 “ copper lines are used, as it’s not if they’ll break, but when. Also, yeah, cabinets made from “garbage” like that material....no place near anything “wet” inside a house, imo. Never ends well for ppl). Cheers✌🏼😂
I just bought a new fridge and the delivery guys won't touch the water line, so I turned off the shut-off valve and disconnected the copper tubing from the old fridge. It leaks badly. Turns out someone installed a saddle valve for the copper tubing. So I had to shut off a valve one step up (which also shuts off the water to my washer). So, I will have to replace that saddle valve soon.
Luis, that is the Keter Folding Work Table Tool Review, DROP Tests Work Bench and we did a tool review on that Keter table back on Jan 3, here is the link to that review: ua-cam.com/video/2RcUWNzwOAg/v-deo.html
Wait wait wait!!! Jeff why didn't you add a 1/4" supply cut off valve just before the fridge line? Especially if a second item like a filter is involved. I do like the Milwaukee light though.
The 1/4" supply cutoff valve is under the sink as part of that dual valve you see on the cold water side. You turn off the 1/4" fridge water supply line by shutting off one half of that valve. did you see our review of that Milwaukee M18 Rocket Tower light that we uploaded last week?
I'm always careful to keep copper lines like that from moving. Also even the copper pipe coming out of the wall to supply water for the toilets in the sink we often will put PO adhesive in oh adhesive in that gap between the drywall And the pipe to fill in that space and make sure it does not move
That's good too, as long as the cabinet is not pinching the hose. I still prefer to run the hose through the cabinets, because it is easy to un-route and install a new one should the need arise.
I think UA-cam is trying to squeeze out more profit. Remember on videos over 10 minutes, they will start adding more ads, but it's still less than TV shows.
I'm not being shown in any video where a coiled copper pipe is exactly on a fridge. CAN ANYONE SOMEONE TELL ME PLEASE ? JUST REPLY BACK ON THIS MESSAGE OF MINE.
@@jacksplumbingvideos7147 Yes, we cannot shorten the steel belted hoses, so we have to make sure we are choosing the correct length, with enough slack.
I switched out my copper line for the flexible tubing and now the fridge water smells and tastes like plastic. We can’t even drink it! I want to go back to the copper.
Try a steel belted plastic hose, those seem to do he best. You can run some water through them for a while too if there is any plastic smell to start off with
Be sure you select the correct length braided steel ice maker supply line:
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Educational! Thank you for making this video. You've given me a few things to inspect to hunt down an existing leak.
2:20 was hilarious, thanks for leaving that in the video.
LOL nothing ever works when you hit the record button
Thank you for a great video.
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it!
I must confess I did use a saddle valve. I will take it out and replace it with something more appropriate. The only problem is I will have to solder a coupling where the valve pierced the copper pipe. Great instructional video.I am in Brampton, Ontario Canada
Thanks for sharing
I'm not sure it meets code to install braided line behind/in walls and cabinets, as they are intended for use in "accessible locations".
Also, for those reading who don't know this, stainless steel is just the armoring. The interior is PVC, rubber / EPDM, or sometimes PEX. I had a braided icemaker line behind a cabinet leak *years* after a nail from a piece of trim pierced it during a remodel. After a few years without issue, it slowly started to leak behind the wall and into the kitchen subfloor. By the time it was found damage was already done: the subflooring swelled, bulging upwards, necessitating mold abatement, floor replacement above and ceiling removal in a finished basement below. The source of the leak was found this way: first the vinyl flooring had to be removed, so the baseboard and cabinet trim covering it had to be removed first. When the trim was pulled from the wall in front of the braided line, this hiss of leaking water was immediately heard and it was a frantic rush to find the water shutoff!
Why do you have solution videos for everything I type in?
Lol
Great work!!
Cool. I didn't know they made. Stainless steel braided hose for ice makers. Mine I believe is 1/4" plastic tubing.
Yes, a lot of people have the plastic tubing.
Good details..
So they're not gonna use the water filter no more ?
We removed it, they may add a newer one later on
@@jeffostroff thank you. only asked cause i have a old one too but its not dispensing water no more i already tried adding air and nothing
U also see them for lav supply lines. Old moen faucets come.factory set like that with qtr inch copper tubes. If they arent long enough. You have to use a Male by male compression by male thread and connect the 3/8" braided supply. But yet for old school systems this copper tubing is very common.
Great video - a couple questions, and I apologize if you addressed it in the video already. (1) Is there any risk of rusting with the braided stainless steel? (2) And in your demonstration, was the water being filtered twice? Once by the filter under the cabinet and second in the refrigerator? Is that inefficient?
I like that shirt! 😁 Thanks for sharing 😉
Thanks for watching!
I need to cap the line b/c I don't need it. Is a part that I can use. I guess it should be a male cap adapter but I cannot find it
I have a brand new GE Frig that is leaking water on the floor. I think it is an internal leak and the leak stopped when I shut off the water supply to the ice maker. My supply line doesn't look like that.
How do you install a Fehring to the copper line?
To permanently cut off water line: My repair co guy cut off the icemaker line under the sink. He used a brass cap to start but that leaked in a few hours. He came back today and installed a copper piece that he had soldered the night before. Is this a standard and safe way to go?
Most of those hoses have complaints of plasticky or garden hose taste, and some people say it takes weeks or months to dissipate. Because of this, I ended up finding a pex ice maker kit, which worked really well to go from my access in the basement up to the fridge. It had the advantage of already wanting to be in a coil for behind the fridge.
You might be referring to old school or cheep manufacturers. When you look at the reviews on HD's web site for the ice maker braided lines, one of the questions asked was does it add a plastic hose taste, and numbers of people responded no bad taste.
@@jeffostroff Some brands are definitely worse than others, but almost all had some complaints, especially with longer lengths. I'm sure it would have gone away, but I didn't want to take the chance. It is something to look for when buying a specific product. The pex worked well with no issues in taste
To summarize: Leaky copper filtered water line? Get rid of it all and replace with braided steel tubing.
Is it bad to overtighten the connectors? I’ve connected a new hose to my copper connector and it seems to leak one drop at the copper side.?
I hate dealing with copper lines. Usually with those you hand tighten and then use pliers to go 1/2 turn past hand tighten, unless the manufacturer tells you otherwise.
What parts do you use for the outlet box install? Do you use 1/2 inch line through the wall? What valve do you connect it to under sink?
To comply with plumbing codes, most cities require on like this homedepot.sjv.io/WxgkM with a hammer arrester on it. It solders onto 1/2" copper pipe and you route 1/2" standard copper pip inside the wall to the cold water pipe. If that is not feasible, use the dual valve on the cold water under the sink and just run the stainless steel 1/4" hose to the icemaker. One of the valves on that dual valve on the cold water supply should be 1/4".
Hi Jeff, I love your videos. Most recently that rocket light one was pretty artistic as well as helpful. ☺
When I get a new fridge, I plan to change out my 30 year old copper line, which appears to be behind alll the cabinets, in a space between the cabinets and the wall.
It will need the 25 ft braided line. What I am asking is how do you fish the line through in this situation. Do you coupling together the new braided line to the old copper line at the sink end, and then pull on the copper at the fridge end to feed the braided line through behind the cabinets? Because there is a butler's closet halfway in between, keeping the line exposed is not an esthetic option.
I don't think you will have any luck with that, the braided hoses are much thicker than the copper line. There's always 2 ways to run water to the fridge:
1) If drywall is down, run pipes through the studs, then place an outlet on the wall, that is best case.
2) If you are not remodeling and not moving cabinets, the only choice is to use a HoleDozer set like we showed in this video, and drill holes on side of the cabinets in the very back of the cabinet. Then you feed the ice maker supply line through each hole to the next cabinet, then behind the stove, etc. We just did this on our friend's kitchen remodel in March, even routed the supply line through the corner lazy Susan cabinet.
Like using recessed outlet boxes for fridges, washing machines, etc....as really makes it look great; & functions perfect too! Also, gotta love “lipstick on a pig” 😉
(Really don’t get why 1/4 “ copper lines are used, as it’s not if they’ll break, but when. Also, yeah, cabinets made from “garbage” like that material....no place near anything “wet” inside a house, imo. Never ends well for ppl).
Cheers✌🏼😂
Totally agree! Thanks for stopping by Aepek!
Where you using one of those 1990s robo-grip pliers
Yes, those were Robo grips, I bought them at Sears in 1994.
I have one from 1994
I just bought a new fridge and the delivery guys won't touch the water line, so I turned off the shut-off valve and disconnected the copper tubing from the old fridge. It leaks badly. Turns out someone installed a saddle valve for the copper tubing. So I had to shut off a valve one step up (which also shuts off the water to my washer). So, I will have to replace that saddle valve soon.
Jeff, what’s the name of that work bench at the end of your vid
Luis, that is the Keter Folding Work Table Tool Review, DROP Tests Work Bench
and we did a tool review on that Keter table back on Jan 3, here is the link to that review: ua-cam.com/video/2RcUWNzwOAg/v-deo.html
Wait wait wait!!! Jeff why didn't you add a 1/4" supply cut off valve just before the fridge line?
Especially if a second item like a filter is involved. I do like the Milwaukee light though.
The 1/4" supply cutoff valve is under the sink as part of that dual valve you see on the cold water side. You turn off the 1/4" fridge water supply line by shutting off one half of that valve. did you see our review of that Milwaukee M18 Rocket Tower light that we uploaded last week?
How can I tie it off
they make end caps that compress on, but I prefer to trace the tube back tot he valve and just remove it.
@@jeffostroff its under house tight quarters
@@jeffostroff tube like I guess 1/4 maybe its round like my oinky.lol so end caps does it screw on the frig for ice maker ?
@@dianascott6046 No end caps would be for the copper line if you want to cap it off.
So can i just crimp it together
2:20 Even a brand new copper line will break if you bend it that many times.
I'm always careful to keep copper lines like that from moving. Also even the copper pipe coming out of the wall to supply water for the toilets in the sink we often will put PO adhesive in oh adhesive in that gap between the drywall And the pipe to fill in that space and make sure it does not move
I just ran it behind the cabinets because the wall was brick, back when I remodeled my kitchen
That's good too, as long as the cabinet is not pinching the hose. I still prefer to run the hose through the cabinets, because it is easy to un-route and install a new one should the need arise.
I'm guessing you only use the braided hose on the interior of the home and not in a crawlspace? I have to go under the house.
Yes, I have not checked to see if it is graded for exterior use so I have always used them inside, fortunately never had to use them outside.
Easy, what I need is how to repair a broken line in, not to, the refrigerator.
Why would they use that plastic line to copper line anyways??
I think i would have added the piece of copper tubing that you took from the T to the water filter just to add a little slack, if i did the repair.
This is all coming down soon, we'll be remodeling her kitchen.
What the heck is with the extreme amount of ads UA-cam is playing
I think UA-cam is trying to squeeze out more profit. Remember on videos over 10 minutes, they will start adding more ads, but it's still less than TV shows.
I'm not being shown in any video where a coiled copper pipe is exactly on a fridge.
CAN ANYONE SOMEONE TELL ME PLEASE ?
JUST REPLY BACK ON THIS MESSAGE OF MINE.
Most nstallers don't use copper coil anymore because it kins way too easily. Mostly we use steel belted hoses now.
hey
I had that happen at a rental property I used to own I don't do anything they also put ground on the copper not the smartest people
🍻🍺
That's crazy!
I have a plastic supply line
Jack those are best upgraded to steel belt hoses.
@ jeffostroff I also like them because I can shorten it.
@@jacksplumbingvideos7147 Yes, we cannot shorten the steel belted hoses, so we have to make sure we are choosing the correct length, with enough slack.
I switched out my copper line for the flexible tubing and now the fridge water smells and tastes like plastic. We can’t even drink it! I want to go back to the copper.
Try a steel belted plastic hose, those seem to do he best. You can run some water through them for a while too if there is any plastic smell to start off with
Bruh, you need to replace /fix/clean that under the sink cabinet. Gross. 🤮. Great video though!
👍🎯👏🎖
Sharkbite👈🏼
I will only use Shark Bites as temporary fix or if it is on the outside of a wall.
Don’t use sharkbite
Poor lighting and too much extraneous video regarding the removal of old set-up.
Would’ve been nice to see how you fed the line through the walls 13 minutes waste of time!
You never watched the video! Nice Try. I showed how I drilled holes in the cabinets and ran the hose trough there
Seriously, shame on them for using particle board!!!!!!! It's trash.
I hate particle board. I will be remodeling her kitchen soon
👄 💄 🐷
thanks Bob!