A big thanks to everyone who has watched and liked this video! I just wanted to mention something I ran across today in the garage while testing the original fuel injectors from my 22RE - which might also account for this surging idle problem. On my truck, the specific problem I had was that the truck would not idle properly once warmed up; but when cold it would idle correctly. Today, while rebuilding and reassembling my intake system, I tested the new fuel injectors which are going on the motor. They all tested out fine. I also decided to clean the old fuel injectors and test them. After cleaning them, I tested all four of the original injectors and, much to my surprise, only 1 out of the four worked. The other 3 did not flow fuel under pressure, nor did they exhibit any signs of actuating under electrical input. So this got me to thinking.. perhaps my original issue was caused by faulty fuel injectors. When cold, the 5th "cold start" injector is functioning and providing additional "piggy back" fuel across the board for a while. The injector is located in the middle of the intake manifold, so its spray pattern would be drawn in evenly across all for intake runners. If several of my main fuel injectors had failed to operate, this would mask that fact. However, once the motor had warmed up, the cold start fuel injector would shut off. Had I known more about the 22RE at the time, I could have tested this by bypassing the cold start timer and keeping the cold start injector operating. When the cold start injector turned off (i.e. once the motor was up to operating temperature), I suspect my motor might have been running on only 1 or 2 of the original injectors and this could have caused the unsteady / cycling idle problems I was seeing. This may or may not have been compounded by my IAC valve being partially blocked. In any event, for others who might be attempting to diagnose unstable idling issues (especially those which only manifest once the car is warmed up), you might want to further investigate your fuel injectors and/or see if the cold start injector is helping to keep the car supplied with fuel when cold, but not when it's warmed up later on. Again, thank you to everyone who has watched, liked and subscribed to my channel - it's most appreciated!
I really like the video! Good job! One thing to note about the Cold Start Injector is that it is only supposed to operate when the engine is cranking, and should shut off as soon as you let go of the key and it returns to the ON position. Once the engine has started, only the 4 main injectors are being used.
Ray, you just described my issue to the T. I replaced my plenum gasket (which fixed the high rpm idle), replaced my spark plugs/wires/distributor cap, but I still have a rough idle, more so when it is hot. I believe I'll replace the injectors. Also thinking about deleting my emissions stuff. What's strange is that even with the rough idle the truck's top end power seems normal, and I'm getting decent fuel economy. The rough idle is beyond annoying though
Great expaination! I have your same problem, start Is very difficult and I tried vary options, checked Spark plug, Spark plug wire and connettors, ignition coil changed new, nothing same problem. My truck if start go regurally with cold fuel injector (i derived a manual command Burton) for 5 Min, After It die, i think there Is a problem with fuel injector and today i tear down the trottole body, i've checked the cold start valve, i found a wrong regulation on the spring and the coolant side dont flow correctly, the passage trough internal hole Is closed, i've try ti inflate with mount. I' ve let in the WD40 this night i'll try to open with compressor. Tomorrow l'll tear dow the injector, test and of bad replace It. Thank for you inspiration.
@@jakeaustin9894 that is not true. It keeps running until the engine warms up. I once had a short in my wiring to the AFM and it was telling the ecu the AFM was seeing the min amount of airflow. Truck ran fine when it was cold but once it got to operating temp and shut off the cold start injector, it would only idle and if you gave it more then about 5% throttle, it would fall on its face and nearly die.
@@kimokahikolekalihi mine only idles, it’s hard to start but once it does it sorta runs. When you give it throttle it falls on its face and tries to die. But it stays alive. Any ideas.?
Thanks for the explanation Ray. I just bought a '92 Pickup with the 22RE, and I'm still learning all the ends, and outs of daily driving a rolling museum. :)
I've got a 1986 Toyota 4Runner I bought in October of 85 and just turned 480000 miles on it. Developed the surging problem at idle speed about 2 months ago and I've been chasing it since. Thank you for the detailed explanation you gave here for how the idle control valve works.
No problem man. My truck has 436K miles on it over here, although most of that was before I owned it. Check your O2 sensor wiring and also make sure you have good coolant flow around the IAC. Check your vacuum levels at idle also.. you should be pulling around 16 in/Hg typically. Also check the rubber elbow at the throttle body for cracks, etc.
@@SoybeanFarmer3300 You're welcome. Also, in my experience, the aluminum used on Toyota motors is very high quality. You shouldn't have much problem removing bolts which thread into aluminum. The issue usually is over torquing things when installing the bolts back in. I generally use anti-seize when threading anything into aluminum (just be careful not to go too tight, as the anti-seize will throw off your torque specs a bit). Also, get yourself a good set of thread restorers; those help out quite a bit (here's the set I use here www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XJ48V0/ ). Generally, you can just spray some gasoline into the hole, run the thread restorer down it a couple of times and blow it out with compressed air. That will help a lot as far as cleaning the hole (and also clean the bolt threads using an old tooth brush or SS wire brush). On my motor, I also take a very small / sharp dental tool and chase around the threads on the bolts using a magnifying glass to clean them. It takes a while, but it's worth it. The other thing is - at least on my motor - I use a lot of titanium hardware when threading into aluminum, as it helps prevent galling and stands up to heat cycling better. Check out RaceTi in the UK - they have outstanding Ti hardware and it's actually not all that expensive. Same goes for using stainless hardware; it's generally better for threading into aluminum in my experience (McMaster sells plenty good quality stuff).
@@ray5961 thank you for sharing this information with me I've been struggling trying to resolve surging idle after the engine warms up since January. so far I've been unable to resolve the issue. My dread from steel bolts in aluminum comes from the bad experience I had replacing the thermostat in this motor about 15 years ago when the threads in the aluminum came out with the steel Bolt I used a helicore and it has held up. The surging idle is an intermittent issue some days I can make my drive to and from work without the issue and then some days it starts before I get two miles away from the house and last for the entire ride shows up whenever I hit a stop sign or a stoplight and the truck is sitting there trying to idle otherwise it runs great and still makes good power for an engine with 480000 miles on it. Also this issue has not affected my gas mileage I still get an overall of about 22 MPG. I like your channel so I subscribed👍
@@SoybeanFarmer3300 Check into what's called a "Time-sert" for thread repair in aluminum. They are far superior than Heli-coils. When I bought my truck, there were 3 or 4 holes which had been repaired via Heli-coils and I pulled them all out and machined them and inserted Time-serts (secured in most cases with some JB weld). Your truck is doing exactly what my truck was doing when I first bought it. The surging (once warm) occurred every 1 second, which indicates it's an Air fuel ratio / O2 sender issue to me. This was the case with my motor I believe. When I re-did my entire wiring harness, I discovered that the wires running to the upstream and down stream O2 sensors were very badly deteriorated. I suspect this was throwing off the ECU's insofar as the fuel trim and being able to stabilize the A/F ratio at 14.7, which is basically the ECU's goal when it comes to fuel mapping. If you can get your hands on a wide band air/fuel ratio gauge (see my other videos where I show mine), you might want to try sticking it into the tail pipe and monitoring the exhaust exiting. It won't be quite as accurate as having it welding into the stream after the header, but it should give you a relatively accurate approximation. Under normal circumstances, the A/F ratio should bounce back and forth around 14.7 +/- .2 and you'll see that the ECU does a pretty good job (through the use of its narrow band O2 sensors) to stabilize that while running. You might also try pulling your upstream O2 sensor and clean it and test it just to see if it's working. If you replace it, use the Denso ones, although NTK (which is a subsidiary of NGK) will work also. They sell them on amazon. My guess is either your O2 sensors are not sending correct data to the ECU and/or the IAC valve is failing to close. Now with regard to the IAC valve, it's easy enough to diagnose. Just remove that rubber elbow that goes to the throttle body and cover that large hole I show in my video with some duct tape. That will totally disable the IAC valve; so once the motor warms up, if the IAC is the issue, the surging will go away. If it doesn't, that means the IAC valve isn't the problem and you may want to look into the O2 feedback / fuel trim loop stuff I outlined above.
I had a surging problem on my 88 4x4 Xtra cab P/U 22RE, WHAT I DID IS MARKED WITH A LINE, THE THROTTLE POSITONER VALVE, unplugged it removed the screws (you will need an L shaped small Phillips) remove it line up the new Toyota TP, w/ the old TP, Mark the line from old to new, reassemble w/ the mark on the new TP to the mark you made on the body ! Start it up, perfect! No more surge.
Cool man, good luck tracking down the issue! Yeah, understanding how the IAC valve works helps a lot. A quick test you can do is to just put some duct tape over that one hole jus inside the opening to the throttle body and see if the idle is stable - blocking that hole totally off will simulate the valve warming up and closing like it should. Another issue can sometimes be faulty wiring to the O2 sensor (or the O2 sensor itself) also, although usually the IAC valve is more often the culprit - feel free to report back if you find the issue on your truck.
@@ray5961 Yeah, my issue is rough idle (really rough!) when the engine is hot. My truck suffers from overheating issues because I am using a cheap Delco Radiator. Not the full metal ones that the OEMs were. I think the hot coolant is too hot for the IAC, maybe causing an issue with it resulting in a rough idle. (Sometimes it stalls after a warm start) Once I clean out the throttle body, IAC, super flush the system, and slap in that new radiator, and my idle and cooling issues should go away!
Did a engine swap from a 22r to a 22er . On start up it would run until warmed up and would stumble and stop. Couldn't get it to run till it cooled off. Was a real head scratcher . 3 days and a number of you tube videos and yours was the one to fix it . The idle screw (1/2 turn open )or air was not open enough . thank you .
I have 22RE with a surging idle and thought it might be the IAC or one of its related parts. Now that I know how it works I can pull it out and clean it. Hopefully that will cure the problem. Thanks for the great info!!!
Ron De TorresThanks! You can also put some tape over that hole on the throttle body and temporarily disable the idle air control circuit to see if that's the problem.
I have been chasing this idle surge/hot no restart for half a decade and you fixed it for me in 6 minutes. Where may I send you a 24 rack of delicious barley pop for adults?? Seriously I owe you for this one!!! 🤙
haha, glad I could help man! Hopefully it fixes up your truck. Thanks for the offer as well, but just clicking like to the video is plenty of thanks enough :-)
@@ray5961 I’ll admit I have a bad habit of not liking more than 80% of the videos I enjoy seeing I just save them on my playlist lol before the video was even over you got the 👍 well earned thank you again 🤙
Very very helpful my man! It has been a pain in the ass trying to trace which sensor is malfunctioningBecause I have a brand new rebuilt motorAnd should not be experiencing issues like this talk about frustrating😤 Anyway very helpful and very easy Break down understanding!!
Really great explanation of how the ICV works, but you need to carry it out one step more--you are not mentioning that rough idling is commonly caused by blockage in the rubber hose and associate coolant line coming into the ICV, which can cause really rough idling...the rubber hose may have to be "roto-rooted" out using a stiff wire (coat hanger) and repeatedly flushed.
Hi Jesse - I'm not quite sure I follow what you mean. What part exactly are you asking about, as far as being bent? You might want to search on UA-cam for something like "Toyota TPS sensor replacement" and see if you can catch a glimpse of the inside parts, etc. What I can tell you is that the proper adjustment of the TPS sensor is super critical to the operation of many other parts of the 22RE systems, so it needs to be adjusted right on the money and according to the manual. You need to use a digital volt meter basically as well as feeler gauges. Anyway, let me know what part you are asking about as far as something being bent. I don't quite know what area you are referring to.
@@ray5961 thanks for everything I have looked all over the web site but you push the petal it moves the tps it has two fingers that stick out that makes the tps move thanks for everything
@@ray5961 it's me again Jesse Walker I have replaced the distributor cap button wires tps and set it to specific settings and I have replaced cold air start switch the engine has been rebuilt new and has about 1000 miles on it and it will run good until it worms up and then it dies and fluids and falls the plugs I have bought 4 boxes of NGK plugs I gap them at .30 I have done everything thing I can do I'm tired I keep trying and it doesn't work can you help me please thank you very much
@@Yyyhgghyyggg Hi Jesse - nothing really jumps out at me. Did you try totally blocking off the IAC valve stuff? The only other thing might be you have a faulty temp sending unit (not for the gauge, but for the ECU). It's mounted on the intake manifold near the front / upper radiator hose (just behind it). You might check to see what readings it's putting out. If that fails, it can throw the ECU off. Also, I would confirm the AFM door isn't jammed or anything. On the TPS, did you set it exactly according to the manual using a digital ohm meter? It requires very specific settings. Also, have you done a compression check on the motor, if so what were your readings? Like I say, based on what you have said, nothing really jumps out at me. Do the plugs come out oily? Soaked in fuel? You mentioned the plug are wet and gas fouled?
I had a problem with surging running rough I clean it still did it. I blew into where the coolant goes in and blew out some trash. That fixed the problem
I had the same problem, I found silicone gasket sealer plugging up the hot water passage holes inside the IAC valve. I used air to blow out water passage holes. Don't know how silicone got there but that's what it was.
I had the exact same thing. When I pulled it all apart, there was a big glob of clear silicone sealer in there. The previous owner of this truck installed a new motor and transmission and some point and they were a little sealant happy in some areas, so I suspect some sealer squeezed the wrong direction and broke off, then found its way to a hole too small to get through. I spent several weeks trying to find the issue, until running across this IAC valve stuff; then had to figure out how it all worked and thought it might help others understand what this crazy system does :-)
Javier Zaragoza Yeah probably so. My guess is it would probably start on a cold morning about as well as having a set of 44mm side draft Mikunis :-) You can certainly test your theory by just blocking off the hole inside the throttle body - see my other video for more info on that. You might need to also disable the cold start injector off the intake plenum as well, but it's hard to say without testing.
So I've got it apart, the water passages appear to be clear. Not sure how to diagnose if the pin is stuck. I pulled out the pin and there is a groove at the bottom filled with gunk. It almost seems like there is supposed to be an o-ring or something there. Anyways now I'm putting it back together and I'm wondering how far to screw in the spring assembly. When I screw it in all the way it closes the gap. Is this normal, or is my valve stuck closed? Otherwise I'd like to know how much of a gap I need. Also my problem is the opposite, in which it runs fine when it's cold but the rpms drop when it warms up
Christopher Carlson to confirm the pin is working, just run hot water over and around everything or submerge it into some hot water for a minute. Adjust the spring / cone so it shuts the air flow off when hot, but open when cold - that's about it.
@@ray5961@@ray5961 same situation here; I pulled out the pin from the brass cylinder and it has a groove with residues of what appears to have been a very tiny o-ring meant to seal this pin/piston so the air Trapped inside The brass cylinder would expand, pushing the pin/piston out To close the air passage. So, if this o-ring deteriorated to almost nothing, the air escapes from the brass cylinder and the pin does not push the valve closed. Do you now where to get an o-ring this tiny? Or do we need to replace the whole IAC valve because the o-ring is not available? In my case, I would have to replace the whole throttle body because on my 89 corolla 4AFE engine, the aic valve is part of the throttle body!! When unscrewing the valve seat, it was very hard and the valve plug kept pushing out against the seat. When I screwed in back on, after having removed and put back the pin, It when in very easily without resistance from the valve plug pushing against. I am thinking of spooling some dental floss on the groove in place of the missing o-ring. I think the pin/piston will not rise without anything sealing it with the brass cylinder. But, I will give it the hot water test before putting it back on the engine. Again, do you know where to get such a tiny o-ring??
At first my truck seemed like it was gasping for air. Idle will go up and down. So I changed that part . Started the truck. Sounded great but as I took it a test drive, when I stopped it did the same thing that it was going gasping for air. So turn it off waited 20 minutes or so turn it on sounded great again. So after watching your video it got me thinking. Well air only goes in only to way. I just put a new part so down there so it can be that. Which leaves the idle control valve. Or the coolant hoes
Rodrigo Dejesus check the little coolant house under the IAC valve and make sure it's very hot when the motor is fully warmed up. Also, make sure there is no vapor lock or air trapped in the cooling system, which can cause problems sometimes. And make sure the main fuel injectors are getting power and fully grounded.
This video is very informative and I appreciate you taking the time to explain things about the throttle body. However, how do I know how much to adjust the IACV spring? You mentioned allowing a little bit of air to pass by. Does anyone know how much air to allow through the seated spring while cold? Thanks in advance!
Andrew Greene Thanks man! Yeah, I'm with ya on not being totally sure either. The way I initially adjusted it was to warm it up to about 160 and then thread it so it was closed. Then confirmed when it was cold that it was open enough so some air comes through. It's function is to provide fast idle when warming up the motor, so it depends also on how cold or warm an area you live in. I tried to set mine so I'd have a touch less high idle in the morning and figured if needed I could pull it back off and adjust more in if I felt I really needed the car to idle at 2000 RPM's for longer when it's cold. I wasn't able to find any specs in the Toyota service manual as far as setting it initially, although there might be some spec hidden on some page some place.
Only on a slow rev, it surges once it gets to 2000 rpm but there’s no surge when I drive it down the road regularly and shift it between 2500 & 3000 rpm. Any tips on how to fix that problem thank u
It's typically better to clean the original Toyota parts when possible. A lot of the replacement stuff from China isn't that good and/or the OEM Toyota parts are no longer available. I cleaned up mine and it works great now.
My truck starts and runs fine cold. After it gets warned up, it feels like it about to stall.I believe you just explained whats going on. I'm nervous about taking it all apart but it sounds like I may have too.
You can test it by blocking the hole off with some duct tape... see if after doing that the truck has trouble idling when cold, but runs fine once it's up to operating temp. If so, then it usually means the IAC valve is either stuck or no coolant is flowing past it.
Thank you for this video I have a 94 rear wheel drive 22 RE and couldn't find any info on what that spring adjuster was, let alone how in the world it operates in tandem with the air flow.except in the Hanes book stating it had taps that needed to be broke off to adjust.i will admit out of frustration I fiddled with it and noticed idle difference but adjusted it back because it seemed to cause a gurgling sound which I know shouldn't be present in a healty running 22Re motor. Any ideas as to what that gurgle sound is or was would be a much appreciated bonus to your great video👍 best regards from Mark" justa need ta keep her a goin!" FROM So Cal
Not sure what that sound would be... but there is a gurgling noise associated with the AS (air suction) system when you decelerate. Try capping off the vacuum line going to the AS valve under the intake runners and see if you can make the gurgle noise come and go. That might be what you are hearing.
I know the videos 3 years old but I’m having an issue were my idle surges but also while I’m driving until the motor warms up (roughly 10-15 mins) my truck only works when I floor it. Like for example 1st gear I’ll be going and like clock work at 3 thousand rpm the engine starts to sputter and will even start back firing like I hit the 2 step. The engine has been fully rebuilt, do you think that the IAC could be the cause of my issues. I’ve replaced the afm twice and cleaned the throttle body about 100 lol
It's hard to say, but that doesn't really sound like the IAC. You can easily disable the IAC valve by placing some duct tape over the inlet hole inside the throttle body there. Just cover the hole and that disables the IAC circuit. It simulates it being closed as it should when the motor is up to temp. When you first start the motor, it won't want to idle, but after you drive 5 or 10 miles, it will come up to temp and then if your 3000 RPM thing still is happening, you know you've totally ruled out anything to do with the IAC valve. Usually misfiring has more to do with ignition or valves being out of adjustment. Watch also to see if any blue / white oil smoke is coming out the back during mis-fire. Also, cleaning the spark plugs can sometimes help out. I'd check to ensure the plug wires are good, etc. Also check to make sure the ground strap between the motor and frame is solid and clean. May not hurt to run a compression check as well.
Just a thought, as I try to diagnose my own issue which led me to IAC.. (and I have 3vze or 3.0, not the 22re). Here's the thing, I've cleaned mine out multiple times..the IAC and TB. And I don't have idle surging or real idle issues. Just a slight shudder and the needle just barely flucuates if you look really closely. But I have extremely intermittent hard start and sometimes it cranks really fast. It will always start, especially if I open throttle plate(and give it air I assume). I really have no idea what my issue is. Sometimes the truck feels like a dead weight and other times it seems responsive. I think I had a egr leak and it had way more power. But what I want to highlight, is the fact my mechanic told me my engine is running on the low side...168 coolant I think he said. The IAC doesn't even close until 175 or more I think it said in the fsm. Or close, whichever it does when hot. I'm starting to think this aftermarket aluminum radiator is overcooling my engine! And I have yet to find the bottom radiator hose even more than slightly warm. Thermostat is rated for 180f I think... Maybe the mechanic did not warm up the engine enough. How do you chck accurate;y the coolant temp? I just have thermo heat gun.
If you have a 180 thermostat then the motor is probably running around 180 since that's where it opens. The radiator isn't going to be able to cool much below that temp, since the thermostat shuts its flow off down around 170 or so. You might want to check to ensure all your fuel injectors are working. You can disconnect the vacuum line going to the EGR and disable it for testing purposes and it's pretty easy to test at idle to see if it's working (just apply vacuum and see if it opens and the motor stalls). As far as the IAC being open a little when warmed up, that shouldn't matter all that much either way. To me it sounds like you have some other issue lurking. To check coolant temp, use your laser gun on a black hose that circulates water off the cylinder head and/or take a reading at the base of where the thermostat installs - that will usually get you within 2-3 degrees of the water temp.
@@ray5961 I just ran the "advanced code test" ...basically you jumper e1 and te2 and drive around. Lucky for me my intermittent no start issue happened when I did this! I got got it started on second attempt and drove around(at least 10mph). I then moved te2 wire to te1 thereby jumpering the normal testing pins. And like magic code 13 showed it's ugly face! I had code 12 and 13 in recent past, but they went away after new distributor install. (Keep in mind I'm using cheap aftermarket distributors since original denso costs 600.00. Apparently the advanced code testing procedure works with starting circuit, so only way to see my issue! In the past before new distributor I would stall while driving...therefore normal code test would bring up code 13. But since then I only have brief no start issue...I'm probably overexplaining..you get the idea. So now the question is whether my stock distributor and multiple after markets are all faulty...OR there is issue in wire somewhere. I bet the latter which means once solved I can put my oem dist. back on:) (note: 5 different mechanics have failed to find this issue. They simply keep telling me to replace distributor despite no change).
@@TheWeirdSide1 Ignition problems can be tricky. Make sure the inside of the distributor cap is clean and dry; sometimes you can get carbon arching inside there, which will cause issues. I have a diagnostic tool I use, called a TA500 engine analyzer that is real helpful. On your distributor, check the brushing where the shaft rides and see if there is any lateral play at all; sometimes those wear in a funny way and allow for movement on the shaft and certain points. I'd also check the air gap in there and make sure it hasn't slipped.
Help! How do you adjust that pin and screw? I made special tool to unscrew that thing like you did. Now I think everything was fine and I need to screw that back in for right temp... Do you know temp? If I use heat gun to adjust it?
What I did was run water through it from the faucet and measured the temp of the water exiting. Then at about 135-140, I set the cone thing so it just closed. Then ran cold water through and confirmed it was open. Then ran hot water (140) and confirmed it closed again.
@@ray5961 That's very smart! I never expected a reply so soon, cheers. I think I got it close to factory...won't know until tomorrow morning at cold start...
Hi Ray. Here is what I am in need of help on. I have a 86 toyota truck and my IACV sits beneath the throttle body. I have taken off TB and IACV. I look into the IACV vacuum port and see the vent is about 7/8 closed. I put the IACV in the fridge for 45 minutes and then checked the valve again. It has now opened to about 1/2. Can I assume that the valve is working correctly. The ohms are also within spec. I am hesitant to take IACV apart because there is no gasket available to replace it with. Any help appreciated..thks..jc
LC Engineering might sell the gasket; that's where I bought mine. Also, the way to test it is with heat, not cold. Boil some water and stick the bottom of the IAC into the boiling water (or run super hot water from the sink through the valve ends) and see if once everything gets up to about 130 to 150 or so, does the valve totally close and block air. That's most important.. the blocking air aspect and at what temp does that occur. You want to make sure the valve is totally closed when the temp is up in the 120 or 130+ ranges. The other thing is confirm water flows through those two tubes where the hoses go and that there isn't any junk in there. You can use compressed air to blow that chamber and those pipes open without risking any damage. Mainly the whole system resolves around "when it gets hot, from the coolant, then it shuts air flow off" - that's its job. When it's on the car, you can check to see if water is flowing through it okay by grabbing the little hose that runs from next to the where the thermostat housing is, over to the IAC and see if that hose is getting hot. That's the water flowing into the IAC - then check to make sure the hose where it's flowing out (at the bottom) is also getting hot and about the same temperature. That will confirm the hot water to operate the valve has hot water flowing by it. The main thing to check is does it close when it gets hot. What it's doing when it's room temp or ice cold doesn't matter as much as fully closing when hot. It's job, once the motor warms up, is to block all air flow. So check that and see if that's working or if the valve is sticking at 7/8 closed and not able to get to 100% closed when it's around 130 or more degrees.
@@ray5961 Hi Ray. First....thanks very much for taking the time to write this up. I will give it a try and see if it closes. I guess my test was backwards. Should have been hot instead of cold. If it does not close I guess I have no choice but to take it apart and see if it is gummed up. The two coolant ports are clear as I can blow air in and out. Let you know. Thanks again..jc
Hi Ray.. First, no gaskets available for this iacv. I tested as you suggested. Water temp between 140 and 150. The flap or valve seemed to close, but in looking through the vacuum hole, the valve had two pinhole openings on each side of the flap. I could see light. So I am not sure if that is the way the valve shuts or not. Your input appreciated..thks..jc
Hey @Ray Nada - did you rebuild your throttle body when you had it off? Replace the shaft seals? I see you bought the LCE isle screw. Their ‘rebuild kit’ contains shaft seals as well. I can’t for the life of me get the throttle plate or TPS bracket off after removing their retaining bolts to access the shaft seals.
Hey Jeff - no, that is not something I did. I wasn't aware LCE had a rebuild kit for it, but that might be something worth checking all right. I'll have to take a closer look at mine and see, but as I remember everything seems to be in pretty good shape. On those small Phillips head screws, some of them can be a real bastard to get out. I had to use vice grips on a few of mine and practically destroyed them. Soak them with WD40 if you can. I replaced a lot of those screws (including the two which hole the TPS on) with Titanium allen head bolts, which makes life a lot easier, let me tell ya.
Hi Ray, I Just Found Your Video. I Am Having a Very High Idle Issue With My 1997 Toyota Tacoma. Around 2500 rpms. It started after changing a fuel injector. The iac is leaking coolant through either one of the hose ends or the barb on the valve. My question is do you think the valve is causing this problem or the new fuel injector? I've had to order a new iac anyway because i couldn't get the leak stopped. Thank you for any info you can provide.
Nice video really informational but what about setting your throttle position sencor i moved mine and seems like it idles much high do you no the correct way to set that thanks kory
Kory Christensen google how to set it and you should find some good info. Also, LC Engineering has a PDF / link that explains the process. The basic idea is that it's an electric switch that tells the ECU the proper angle. You need to use a volt meter as I remember. I need to do the job soon on my motor... I'll see if I can make a video showing how to do it
What can I clean that bottom passage with? I've flush radiator pull iac filled with water flushed again and then with coolant and and I have a new radiator! Help
My 22RE idols rough. I dont know of any vacuum leaks. Should I take apart the throttle body? How do I clean it? How about the EGR Valve? Good video. All info appreciated. Thanks.
Mitchell McMahon might also be your fuel filter or clogged injectors. You might want to have the fuel pressure checked and inspect the seals around the injectors. Many things can result in poor idle. Also bad O2 sensors. Start by pulling any check engine light codes - on the older trucks with OBD1 you have to jumper some pins in the diagnostic port box to get the code. You can use B12 chemtool to do some cleaning without removal - EGR valve is something you should research via youtube and then you can disconnect it to check, but as I recall I don't believe it's open at idle.
I have a 1995 Toyota 4runner v6 a paid a mechanic to do rhe the heads and timing belt kit now when I drive it in the morning to go to work is fine but when I make my first stop and turn off the car and then turn it on back the idle goes up and down and the car died then try again but i have to push the gas in order to keep it running . What should I check?
dannyagm1974 yeah, that's the symptoms this video covers - namely the idle air control. Check to see if the coolant line is clogged up. My guess is some RTV sealant was used during the rebuild and found its way into that small coolant line
Wondering if this is the same for a 3rd gen 4runner. I heard it doesn’t have an idle screw like that I gotta double check because I’m idling at 2500 rpm on cold and even when warm it stays around 2300-2400 rpm. I replaced the tps and it’s still doing the same. I heard rumors about doing a idle relearn but idk how to do that on a 2000 4runner 3.4l. Any advice or tips would help imma also clean everything tomorrow just to make sure as well as clean the iac valve. Thanks a ton for this info boss!!
romello turner I'm not all that familiar with the V6 motor, but you might check to see if there is a cold start timer circuit involved. Also, if there is a cold start injector (like how it's setup on the 22RE), try pulling the wiring harness off that and see if the idle drops - that might help put you on the right track to finding the issue.
Ray Nada thank you soo much for the fast reply! I will definitely try that tomorrow I need my runner back and running normal I should’ve never messed with it in the first place haha thanks a ton!!
Ray Nada. My idle is too low, like 300 rpm. I adjust the idle screw and bring it up to 1000 but a day later it settles back to 300 and almost turns off. This is only after the car is fully warmed up. When it is first started it idles at 1500 rpm. Can the IAC valve cause this ?
I don't think the IAC valve would cause this. If anything, it would cause the motor to run at too high (and/or an unstable) RPM. You can certainly test it by blocking the hole I show in the video, which provides air. Just remove the intake hose to the throttle body and cover the hole with some duct tape (wrap the edge out of the intake hose, so the tape can't end up being sucked into the motor). However, I think what might be causing your issue could be failed injectors. Let me explain why: when the car is cold, there is a cold air injector (located in the middle of the intake manifold, with a hard fuel line running up to it) and this injector adds gas when the motor is cold. There is a timer which turns it off once the motor warms up (it's one of those two sending units on the intake runner manifold below the throttle body inlet. If your main fuel injectors are not working and/or not supplying gas to the motor, it can cause a low or unstable idle (as not the correct amount of fuel is being delivered to the motor). However, when the motor is cold, the 5th injector for the cold air is working and providing gas, which tends to mask the fact that one or more of the other main fuel injectors isn't working. There are a few tests you can do.. start by using a screw driver to see if you can feel each of the main injectors clicking (or put a hose up to it and listen with your ear through the hose). A properly operating fuel injector should make a little clicking noise. If I have time, I'll make a video showing what I mean. Anyway, the other thing you can do is disable the cold air fuel injector on the intake manifold by just unplugging it. Then the motor will be forced to operate only on the 4 main injectors, even when cold. If the motor exhibits the incorrect (i.e. super low) idle when the 5th injector is unplugged, then it might mean the main injectors aren't working. If I have a minute, I'll upload another video later this week. Anyway, those are some things I would check out. Also, check the wiring to your O2 sensors and also you might consider taking them out to test them (there are videos showing how to test them on UA-cam).
@@ray5961 I will definitely look into these. Can you explain however, if the injectors are not working, how can the engine be responsive when pressing the gas pedal? They seem to inject all the fuel I need. If anything, the car runs too rich and makes a puttering sound like the engine is bogged down when I step hard on the gas.
@@skidaddleskadoodle563 That sounds more like an electrical issue to me, aka loss of spark. Is there any sort of check engine light? After it stops, then what happens? Does it crank right back over and drive fine again?
@@ray5961 When it stops it just rolls to a stop, yet the powers to electrical stuff is on. Sometimes when I crank it starts back up but then dies immediately after, then after that it takes a few more cranks.
@@skidaddleskadoodle563 It sort of sounds like it could be a fuel pump issue. Have you ever changed the fuel filter? If you have a 22RE, it's usually bolts on the right side of the block. If you can check fuel pressure at the fuel rail, that would be a good idea. It could also be the igniter. The other thing would be a faulty switch inside the AFM (check my other videos).
what symtoms? mine idols real high and takes a very long time to go down. Imthinking that spring is not working correctly. can you spray anything into the hole on the throttle body? Like a white lithim or a deep creep?or would that damage the IAC
Most likely it's restricted flow of coolant through the lines. I'd start by removing the lines and checking them and/or blow some compressed air through those water fittings when the lines are off. You would try spraying some WD-40 in there, but it sounds like the spring is probably okay. Use your hand when the car is warming up to see if those hoses get hot also... they should get immediate coolant flow and warm up rather quickly.
Mine idles great, but then when i drive along at a low speed say 30 miles an hour , sometimes not always it kind of surges slow ,fast slow fast . But under load smooth as butter?. Any ideas.
Could be a number of things, but I would definitely check the fuel filter & fuel pressure. Also check your plugs to see if any our fouled or showing signs of oil or anything. You can always disable the IAC valve by blocking off that one main hole, just to rule it out.
@@ray5961 thanks for responding, yes fuel filter makes sense i will change it . Its a good idea in any case . I haven't owned It all that long so i don't know when the last time that was done . Thanks again.
@@lawrenceparker1523 well, congrats on the truck. If it is new and hasn't been maintained that well, there could be a lot of small areas which need attention. I'd check the function of the air suction system as well as the EGR system and/or just outright disable them both while trying to narrow down what is wrong. Of course, a compression check and also valve adjustment never hurts on the 22RE. I also run my truck at 8 degree BTDC and have found that to be a lot nicer than the factory 5 degree suggestion. Also, try dumping a can or two of fuel injector cleaner into the gas tank. I use either Berryman B12 fuel injector cleaner or sometimes Sea Foam concentrated fuel injector cleaner and have had real good luck with that. I also generally flush the engine oil with Motor Medic engine flush prior to changing the oil and filter. Also Denso W16EXR-U are about the only plug worth running. I run an MSD blaster coil (the high vibration one, I think the part # is 8222 if I remember correctly) and their 9.5mm red wires. I also have found that just grinding off the ground strap on the plugs makes the motor run a lot smoother. I know it sounds crazy, but it works. The other thing is taking off the intake manifold and cleaning them. If the EGR system has been running for countless miles, it gets really dirty inside there. Also make sure the PCV stuff is working well, as the stock 22RE has borderline enough vacuum to keep the positive crankcase pressure in check. Also check the wiring to the O2 sensors (mainly the upstream one) as the ECU relies on that feedback heavily while cruising in closed loop. Also definitely check the TPS (throttle position switch). It needs to be working smooth and also needs to be adjusted right on the money. You might also clear the ECU fuel tables, but pulling out the 15A EFI fuse for about 5 or 10 minutes, then plugging it back in. That will force the ECU to sort of reset and rebuild its long term trim tables, etc.
@@ray5961 lots of information right there i use sea foam in my Honda shadow 600 and never had a problem with it . And 8 degree i will try right away. It is not insured at this time but i will start with gas line filter , sea foam , and 8 degree and those new plugs and wires keep me busy for awhile.i am not sure what you mean by ground strap on the plugs?
@@lawrenceparker1523 Make sure to set the 8 degrees with the diagnostic jumper in - google it and/or check the service manual and you can see how it's done if that's something new to you with the 22RE. As far as the ground strap, I mean the part on the spark plug that wraps up and over the electrode - where you gap the spark plugs - I grind the ground strap part totally off and just run the plugs with the center electrode sticking out and no strap whatsoever, although the MSD blaster coil is 45,000 volts vs. the factory probably 30Kv. You can also just cut back the strap so it exposes 50% of the top of the ground button electrode and you'll get nearly the same results. I like totally doing away with the ground strap myself. Also make sure all your electrical grounds between the cylinder head, block, frame to block, valve cover to fire wall, etc. are all clean and secure. Good grounding really helps improve spark.
Check out LC Engineering - that's where I found mine. You can also google "toyota parts" and you should find the Toyota parts website, with exploded views. You can usually search their website, find the part #, then search for that part # via ebay and google - that's how I track down all my hard to find parts :-) Or just call the dealer and hope you find a parts counter guy that still knows a PCV valve from a PVC pipe :)
@@ray5961 Have not had any luck. IAC, itself, has been discontinued for my year and I see no gasket in exploded views of throttle body diagrams I have looked at....thks..jc
Thanks! I thought my IAC was FUBAR! Why is there coolant??? lol did not expect any coolant on that part. Did not see coolant in any other videos. learned something today.
Hey brother I just bought me a toyota pickup with a high idle. I would screw the idle screw all the way down but still with high idle. I swapped out the IACV with a new one but its still idling high. I also noticed my temperature is alot cooler than normal operating temp, but I had already changed out the thermostat for a 180 degree. No luck, any help I really appreciate it.
Check to make sure that little line which circulates coolant around under the IAC valve is getting hot and is not plugged up. The other thing you can do is to close the air bypass hole (which is shown in the video there) with some duct tape. That will simulate the IAC closing - just make sure to hang the edge of the duct tape out and fold it over when you put the rubber intake back on. When the IAC gets hot, it closes that air passes. If you manually block it using duct tape, and the idle drops down, then you know the IAC isn't getting hot enough (or something) to shut that passage way. I would start there and see what happens.
Ismael Rodríguez I buy all my O-rings from McMaster. Here's another option, which is what I run on my motor - www.lceperformance.com/22RE-Idle-Speed-Adjusting-Screw-Stainless-Steel-p/1061049.htm
ann henry There's nothing really to show; when the coolant gets hot, the pin expands and closes the airway. That's the entire function. If you have a more specific question you're wondering about, let me know.
I made a tool to remove that spring in order to clean everything but that special fine threaded but would not back out very far. obviously the threads were dirty. did u have problems removing yours?
Yes, it was a nightmare to get out, even with everything in the vise and where I could see it. Even with WD40 and some mild heat, it was slow going backing out until the last few turns. Once it was out, I cleaned everything up and then it was okay. I think it was due to 30 years of corrosion
Dumbass I wasn't able to find any info in the manual. What I ended up doing was setting it so it closed at about 140 or so degrees and then figured I could go back later and fine tune things based on how the truck ran
@@ray5961 I hate that how they keep info guarded. I guess they expect everyone to buy a new vehicle every 7/10 years. but poor folk, like myself, don't have funding to do so.
I have a 94’ 4Runner V-6. It is also having a surging idle problem. The idle adjustment screw has no effect. The TPS was replaced but I don’t think that is the issue.
Yeah, you can open it up and clean it all out. LC Engineering sells the gasket you need. I just cleaned mine in the sink with a brush and put it all back together. Works like a champ!
@@ray5961 I'm partial to 22reperformance.com but I'm gonna try cleaning the throttle body and the IAC and see if that helps. It only did the surging idle two times and the last few times I drove it, it idled fine.
Hey Nick - yeah, if the IAC valve is stuck in the closed position, it would prevent it from idling high at start up. The basic operation is the IAC valve is open when cold, which allows extra air into the intake (that kicks the idle up, similar to holding the throttle open a bit). As coolant warms up and flows around the IAC circuit (the two small hoses which run to it), the valve slowly warms up and closes; this shuts off that extra air passage (the one you can see inside the throttle body on the left kinda). When everything is working correctly, it should be totally off by around 130-140 degrees (coolant temp) or something around that. Adjusting it to be exactly right is a total hassle, so if you start messing around with it be sure to carefully mark the factory settings and count how many turns the nut thing in there turns backwards). Hope that helps.
@@nickwinter2145 Check the rubber elbow boot that attaches to the throttle body for cracks/tears. Also have you done any thing to seal the coolant system recently? Such as silicone on gaskets or anything? That can block those tiny hoses going to the IAC. You can check to make sure the IAC is getting warm coolant through those hoses, just by touching the upper and lower hoses and making sure they are both the same temp and hot. You can also totally block off the function of the IAC system by blocking that hole inside the throttle body with some duct tape.
@@nickwinter2145 ok that's probably a plus. Definitely check those two hoses to make sure they are getting warm. If not, there could be a blockage inside the IAC valve passages back there. If you have any other questions, feel free to hit me up!
Reinaldo Gonzalez I had to make a spanner to fit the slots on the nut, then unscrew it and the spring comes out. It's the round nut that the little cone / nose part goes into that you see in the video there. It's hard to break free; I am going to make a better tool to use (probably from an old socket or something).
Ray Nada : disarm the IAC, but I do not know how much should be left open, you know? If you give me your email, I can send you a photo of the nail extractor that you can modify to turn the piece and remove the springs, very easy.
Christopher Rizzuti No, I wish I knew. As I remember, I put it in hot water to see how it worked and then I adjusted it so when it was cold it was open (allowing air to flow), but when it got up to around 100-120 degrees it should be closed. It only needs to allow air flow through until the motor starts to heat up. I'm hoping I don't need to take mine back off to readjust it once I fire up the motor.
That is just one of the great mysteries of the universe :) I'm not super familiar with the setup on the 86, but if you wanna send me some pics to the email address on the channel, I'm happy to take a look and see if I can make heads or tails out of anything. You're referring to the small 4mm hoses that connect off on the left side of the throttle body right? I have another video on my channel where I discuss the routing of all those hoses in more depth by the way.
@ray5961 I'm talking about on the top of throttle body there's 4 vac lines all the same size. A cluster of 3 then another one more towards radiator. I only have the cluster of 3
This video here gives a pretty good run down of what everything does - ua-cam.com/video/rcKjFEYHk28/v-deo.htmlsi=PuAr1EBmNDWqj7VC - maybe your truck doesn't have an EVAP system on it? The 3 main lines on my truck are all related to the EGR system and the vacuum modulator. The 4th is to draw fumes out of the EVAP canister.
Christian Kanahele Having the TPS out of adjustment definitely wouldn't help matters. It's pretty easy to adjust though. Just get a volt meter and follow the info in the manual. Usually it's adjusted correctly unless someone has loosened the screws.
@@ray5961 I could really use your help my idle has been rough ever sense I do’s a head gasket replace. My idle bounces whenever my truck is warm. But after it’s been warmed up for about 10 min the bouncing of the idle stops. And when ever I press on my break it goes back to the bouncing idle. And as soon as I talk my feet off the break it stops. I tried asking people that know a little about 22re but none of them know so I was hoping you could help ? Please I really need help ? 👍🏾
@@christiankanahele5882 Did you ever find your Brake issue on the 22RE. I have a 94 that does the same thing.. Found if I take out the stop light fuse it doesn't do it. Thinking it's a excess voltage drop causing Alternator to pull to hard with the load. Thinking it might be a Weak or low battery and was going to check that tomorrow to see if that's it..
I took a pair of needle nose pliers and ground slots into the ends, then used vise grips to hold that and turn - but I was working on a bench also, with plenty of room. The method I would probably suggest now is to take a socket and grind it down until it just has those two tabs you need; that will help a lot as far as indexing up into that area and not slipping. Also, spray WD40, as those threads are super tight on there if that collar has never been loosened before. I had a heck of a time getting mine off - even after it started to turn, I thought something was wrong, because it was jammed in there so tightly. I was actually sort of surprised when it finally came all the way out and the threads were not destroyed. When it was coming off, it felt like it had been cross threaded or something bad. But it cleaned up and went back in fine. I would not recommend attempting to do it with the throttle body on the car, by the way. It's much easier to remove it and work on a bench. Good luck!
What would cause a wicked surge only going up a steep grade. its wheeler replaced complete harness/computer/ tps/ afm/fuel pump/fuel filter/no vacuum leaks/ only does it on steep inclines at a steady throttle don't matter if its half throttle. and a full tank of fuel or 1/4 tank.
Kyle Fievez That's a hard one. Have you checked the fuel pressure boost circuit stuff? There is a VSV solenoid that opens to boost fuel pressure; you can bypass it and run the vacuum hose direct to the manifold to test it. Also check to see if the pressure thing on the fuel rail is functioning to boost pressure. Does it also do it when cold?
Kyle Fievez also, what octane gas are you running? It could be the knock sensor is retarding the timing on hills and causing the surging. This could be what's happening, especially if you using lower octane gas. Try 92 octane and/or test the knock sensor on the right side of the block. Also carbon build up in the cylinders could be making things worse in a similar way; the carbon can get a hot spot and cause detonation which will trigger the knock sensor and surging.
I taped off the hole in mine and it runs better for about 30 seconds and then stalls. Before I taped it it stalled after like 5. So I wonder if this is my issue.
Hard to say, but it's normally if you tape that hole closed, then it disabled the entire IAC valve stuff; that means the motor should idle fine once it warms up a bit (around 3-4 miles of driving). If it's still stalling with the hole closed by the tape (and it's warmed up), then it's probably not the IAC but something more. You might want to check to see if all your injectors are working. You might also want to check the O-ring around the idle adjustment screw. But the fact that it did change things tends to suggest an air/fuel ratio issue. What do you have the engine idle RPM's set to?
@@ray5961 I bought my truck and the drive it home and drove it for a day and on the way home it was revving up and down fast and I parked it and now it just fires up good but after 5 seconds the idle drops and stalls after misfire. But I’ve checked a list of things including iacv and egr etc. but maybe it’s my afm idk. Super frustrating though lol
@@ray5961 I have spark and my fuel pump pumps fuel. I changed the fuel filter. So I think maybe afm just because of it maybe not cutting on fuel pump? Cause I don’t hear it turn on. I used the diagnostic box to activate fuel pump is how I got the gas to come. But I don’t think it’s activated or not for long cause the air. I have a crack in my boot that goes to my throttle body. And I taped it. So could be that too. It’s weird
@@heyitsbryce ok try this - go into the little diag box (next to the fuse box in the engine compartment) and jumper Fp and B+ with a paper clip or wire (this will force the fuel pump on) and then start the car and see if the truck runs.
@@heyitsbryce I might be the circuit opening relay has failed. Let me know if the truck works correctly when Fp and B+ is jumpered. The fuel pump comes on when you work the stater, to start the motor. Once air starts flowing through the AFM, the AFM grounds the circuit opening relay and this relay powers the fuel pump. So if that relay fails, the truck will start (when the starting circuit provides fuel), but it won't run once things are handed over to the AFM if the circuit opening a relay has failed. If the truck runs when Fp and B+ are jumpered (which by passes that relay), then it's probably the relay, which is located over in the passenger side kick panel and behind the glove box - it has a dark grey 6 pin connector.
That would do it. That's very common. Too much RTV or gasket maker getting stuck in there. Mine had a similar issue.. some silicone was jammed up in the IAC circuit.
Orlando Tejeda Could be clogged injectors or maybe low fuel pressure. I'd also check your plugs and check to see if the cylinder chambers have excessive carbon build up
@@ray5961 now the take time to hearing your video I'm going to clean up the throttle body and see how it goes... it really bother me to drove my car and when I try to keep the speed it will kick-off and drop off the idle and kind of pull off itself
@UCmGyD1O2xMhhRYDn1D2cK_g same situation here; I pulled out the pin from the brass cylinder and it has a groove with residues of what appears to have been a very tiny o-ring meant to seal this pin/piston so the air Trapped inside The brass cylinder would expand, pushing the pin/piston out To close the air passage. So, if this o-ring deteriorated to almost nothing, the air escapes from the brass cylinder and the pin does not push the valve closed. Do you now where to get an o-ring this tiny? Or do we need to replace the whole IAC valve because the o-ring is not available? In my case, I would have to replace the whole throttle body because on my 89 corolla 4AFE engine, the aic valve is part of the throttle body!! When unscrewing the valve seat, it was very hard and the valve plug kept pushing out against the seat. When I screwed in back on, after having removed and put back the pin, It when in very easily without resistance from the valve plug pushing against. I am thinking of spooling some dental floss on the groove in place of the missing o-ring. I think the pin/piston will not rise without anything sealing it with the brass cylinder. But, I will give it the hot water test before putting it back on the engine. Again, do you know where to get such a tiny o-ring??
Let’s Help Each Other usually that's a vacuum leak some place, as the brake booster is actuated from engine vacuum. Search "vacuum leaks scotty kilmer" here on youtube and you should find some helpful videos
@@TheMillertym58 yes, the idle control valve was seized. Didnt have to take anything apart just the throttle body off the intake. If you can hit the throttle body on your hand it should vibrate like a spring is inside. Mine didnt budge felt like a solid piece. I took an old throttle body from my brothers carb swapped 4runner and runs great!
@@Dusty.Does.it. Hey, mine has the same problem. It runs perfect cold but drops way down to about 300 RPM. I'm gonna go mess with it, thanks for replying with your fix. Also thanks to the guy that made this video.
I cleaned the throttle body, replaced the air/idle control valve, replaced the idle set screw o ring, replaced the pcv valve, replaced the air filter, new plugs, wires, cap and rotor. Even replaced the fuel filter. Still idles rough. Can anyone tell me what might be the cause?
Perry Johnson Check to see if there are any engine codes. Also, you might want to check to make sure your O2 sensors are okay. I'd also do a compression check. Check the fuel pressure at the rail as well. Watch the Cris fix video about dirty fuel filters
Doug H. in VA If the IAC valve isn't working, then usually that air passage will be left open, which allows extra air into the motor. Under throttle it's not a big deal, because that air is metered air. However, when the throttle plate is closed, the extra air going into the motor is basically acting like someone is holding the plate open and allowing extra air in, even though everything else expects that the motor is at idle. So it almost functions similar to when you pull the PCV hose off and allow extra air in - which negatively affects idle.
@@ray5961 I think I understand your explanation, but it seems to me you are telling what happens when the IAC does not work. To me it makes more sense to explain how it normally works and the role of the barrel type device that opens and closes and why in addition to the 2 radiator coolant pipes and how its temperature has a role. Most guys are not car guys and do not care much or think much about how devices in a car work. Simplify what to do and the cheap, reliable, and simple remedy.and how to get to it.
I have an '89 Toyota pickup 22re and it has a rough warm idle and occasionally stalls. It runs and idles fine when cold though. Could the IAC valve be bad because it didn't look that dirty when I removed it.
Mercury Blues could be there is a coolant blockage via the two small hoses that run to and from it. I'd start by checking those. Check and see if the line that loops up from the fitting on the thermostat housing is hot when the motor is up to operating temp
My 89 22re surges high to about 3k rpm when cold start , stays there until about half warm, rough idle always when warm . Could that be the idle air valve ? Or a leaky cold start injector ?
Max B Could be a leak around the idle adjuster screw also, or a vacuum / air leak in general some place. It's easy enjoy to rule in or out the cold start injector... just unplug the connector to it. If you think it's leaking, pull it out and jumper the diag block on the OBD1 port to turn the fuel pump on and see if it sprays gas out. I would also check the EGR valve to see if it's stuck open.
A big thanks to everyone who has watched and liked this video! I just wanted to mention something I ran across today in the garage while testing the original fuel injectors from my 22RE - which might also account for this surging idle problem. On my truck, the specific problem I had was that the truck would not idle properly once warmed up; but when cold it would idle correctly. Today, while rebuilding and reassembling my intake system, I tested the new fuel injectors which are going on the motor. They all tested out fine. I also decided to clean the old fuel injectors and test them. After cleaning them, I tested all four of the original injectors and, much to my surprise, only 1 out of the four worked. The other 3 did not flow fuel under pressure, nor did they exhibit any signs of actuating under electrical input. So this got me to thinking.. perhaps my original issue was caused by faulty fuel injectors. When cold, the 5th "cold start" injector is functioning and providing additional "piggy back" fuel across the board for a while. The injector is located in the middle of the intake manifold, so its spray pattern would be drawn in evenly across all for intake runners. If several of my main fuel injectors had failed to operate, this would mask that fact. However, once the motor had warmed up, the cold start fuel injector would shut off. Had I known more about the 22RE at the time, I could have tested this by bypassing the cold start timer and keeping the cold start injector operating. When the cold start injector turned off (i.e. once the motor was up to operating temperature), I suspect my motor might have been running on only 1 or 2 of the original injectors and this could have caused the unsteady / cycling idle problems I was seeing. This may or may not have been compounded by my IAC valve being partially blocked. In any event, for others who might be attempting to diagnose unstable idling issues (especially those which only manifest once the car is warmed up), you might want to further investigate your fuel injectors and/or see if the cold start injector is helping to keep the car supplied with fuel when cold, but not when it's warmed up later on. Again, thank you to everyone who has watched, liked and subscribed to my channel - it's most appreciated!
I really like the video! Good job! One thing to note about the Cold Start Injector is that it is only supposed to operate when the engine is cranking, and should shut off as soon as you let go of the key and it returns to the ON position. Once the engine has started, only the 4 main injectors are being used.
Ray, you just described my issue to the T. I replaced my plenum gasket (which fixed the high rpm idle), replaced my spark plugs/wires/distributor cap, but I still have a rough idle, more so when it is hot.
I believe I'll replace the injectors. Also thinking about deleting my emissions stuff.
What's strange is that even with the rough idle the truck's top end power seems normal, and I'm getting decent fuel economy. The rough idle is beyond annoying though
Great expaination! I have your same problem, start Is very difficult and I tried vary options, checked Spark plug, Spark plug wire and connettors, ignition coil changed new, nothing same problem. My truck if start go regurally with cold fuel injector (i derived a manual command Burton) for 5 Min, After It die, i think there Is a problem with fuel injector and today i tear down the trottole body, i've checked the cold start valve, i found a wrong regulation on the spring and the coolant side dont flow correctly, the passage trough internal hole Is closed, i've try ti inflate with mount.
I' ve let in the WD40 this night i'll try to open with compressor.
Tomorrow l'll tear dow the injector, test and of bad replace It.
Thank for you inspiration.
@@jakeaustin9894 that is not true. It keeps running until the engine warms up. I once had a short in my wiring to the AFM and it was telling the ecu the AFM was seeing the min amount of airflow. Truck ran fine when it was cold but once it got to operating temp and shut off the cold start injector, it would only idle and if you gave it more then about 5% throttle, it would fall on its face and nearly die.
@@kimokahikolekalihi mine only idles, it’s hard to start but once it does it sorta runs.
When you give it throttle it falls on its face and tries to die. But it stays alive.
Any ideas.?
Thanks for the explanation Ray. I just bought a '92 Pickup with the 22RE, and I'm still learning all the ends, and outs of daily driving a rolling museum. :)
rolling museum, I like this way of thinking of it.
I had a 94 back in 07. Put Maxxis Bighorns on it, went anywhere. Mine had the V6, 5 speed single cab. Miss that truck a lot.
I've got a 1986 Toyota 4Runner I bought in October of 85 and just turned 480000 miles on it.
Developed the surging problem at idle speed about 2 months ago and I've been chasing it since. Thank you for the detailed explanation you gave here for how the idle control valve works.
No problem man. My truck has 436K miles on it over here, although most of that was before I owned it. Check your O2 sensor wiring and also make sure you have good coolant flow around the IAC. Check your vacuum levels at idle also.. you should be pulling around 16 in/Hg typically. Also check the rubber elbow at the throttle body for cracks, etc.
@@ray5961 thank you for this additional information my biggest dread is removing steel bolts going into aluminum.
@@SoybeanFarmer3300 You're welcome. Also, in my experience, the aluminum used on Toyota motors is very high quality. You shouldn't have much problem removing bolts which thread into aluminum. The issue usually is over torquing things when installing the bolts back in. I generally use anti-seize when threading anything into aluminum (just be careful not to go too tight, as the anti-seize will throw off your torque specs a bit). Also, get yourself a good set of thread restorers; those help out quite a bit (here's the set I use here www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XJ48V0/ ). Generally, you can just spray some gasoline into the hole, run the thread restorer down it a couple of times and blow it out with compressed air. That will help a lot as far as cleaning the hole (and also clean the bolt threads using an old tooth brush or SS wire brush). On my motor, I also take a very small / sharp dental tool and chase around the threads on the bolts using a magnifying glass to clean them. It takes a while, but it's worth it. The other thing is - at least on my motor - I use a lot of titanium hardware when threading into aluminum, as it helps prevent galling and stands up to heat cycling better. Check out RaceTi in the UK - they have outstanding Ti hardware and it's actually not all that expensive. Same goes for using stainless hardware; it's generally better for threading into aluminum in my experience (McMaster sells plenty good quality stuff).
@@ray5961 thank you for sharing this information with me I've been struggling trying to resolve surging idle after the engine warms up since January. so far I've been unable to resolve the issue. My dread from steel bolts in aluminum comes from the bad experience I had replacing the thermostat in this motor about 15 years ago when the threads in the aluminum came out with the steel Bolt I used a helicore and it has held up. The surging idle is an intermittent issue some days I can make my drive to and from work without the issue and then some days it starts before I get two miles away from the house and last for the entire ride shows up whenever I hit a stop sign or a stoplight and the truck is sitting there trying to idle otherwise it runs great and still makes good power for an engine with 480000 miles on it. Also this issue has not affected my gas mileage I still get an overall of about 22 MPG. I like your channel so I subscribed👍
@@SoybeanFarmer3300 Check into what's called a "Time-sert" for thread repair in aluminum. They are far superior than Heli-coils. When I bought my truck, there were 3 or 4 holes which had been repaired via Heli-coils and I pulled them all out and machined them and inserted Time-serts (secured in most cases with some JB weld). Your truck is doing exactly what my truck was doing when I first bought it. The surging (once warm) occurred every 1 second, which indicates it's an Air fuel ratio / O2 sender issue to me. This was the case with my motor I believe. When I re-did my entire wiring harness, I discovered that the wires running to the upstream and down stream O2 sensors were very badly deteriorated. I suspect this was throwing off the ECU's insofar as the fuel trim and being able to stabilize the A/F ratio at 14.7, which is basically the ECU's goal when it comes to fuel mapping. If you can get your hands on a wide band air/fuel ratio gauge (see my other videos where I show mine), you might want to try sticking it into the tail pipe and monitoring the exhaust exiting. It won't be quite as accurate as having it welding into the stream after the header, but it should give you a relatively accurate approximation. Under normal circumstances, the A/F ratio should bounce back and forth around 14.7 +/- .2 and you'll see that the ECU does a pretty good job (through the use of its narrow band O2 sensors) to stabilize that while running. You might also try pulling your upstream O2 sensor and clean it and test it just to see if it's working. If you replace it, use the Denso ones, although NTK (which is a subsidiary of NGK) will work also. They sell them on amazon. My guess is either your O2 sensors are not sending correct data to the ECU and/or the IAC valve is failing to close. Now with regard to the IAC valve, it's easy enough to diagnose. Just remove that rubber elbow that goes to the throttle body and cover that large hole I show in my video with some duct tape. That will totally disable the IAC valve; so once the motor warms up, if the IAC is the issue, the surging will go away. If it doesn't, that means the IAC valve isn't the problem and you may want to look into the O2 feedback / fuel trim loop stuff I outlined above.
This video was extremely useful. I thought I had a cold start injector problem but I was receiving way to much air on start up. Thanks a million
I had a surging problem on my 88 4x4 Xtra cab P/U 22RE, WHAT I DID IS MARKED WITH A LINE, THE THROTTLE POSITONER VALVE, unplugged it removed the screws (you will need an L shaped small Phillips) remove it line up the new Toyota TP, w/ the old TP, Mark the line from old to new, reassemble w/ the mark on the new TP to the mark you made on the body ! Start it up, perfect! No more surge.
I am having rough idle issues when my truck is hot. Watching this video made me woke af about my issues, Thanks!
Cool man, good luck tracking down the issue! Yeah, understanding how the IAC valve works helps a lot. A quick test you can do is to just put some duct tape over that one hole jus inside the opening to the throttle body and see if the idle is stable - blocking that hole totally off will simulate the valve warming up and closing like it should. Another issue can sometimes be faulty wiring to the O2 sensor (or the O2 sensor itself) also, although usually the IAC valve is more often the culprit - feel free to report back if you find the issue on your truck.
@@ray5961 Yeah, my issue is rough idle (really rough!) when the engine is hot. My truck suffers from overheating issues because I am using a cheap Delco Radiator. Not the full metal ones that the OEMs were. I think the hot coolant is too hot for the IAC, maybe causing an issue with it resulting in a rough idle. (Sometimes it stalls after a warm start)
Once I clean out the throttle body, IAC, super flush the system, and slap in that new radiator, and my idle and cooling issues should go away!
I tried the duct tape test but the motor won't crank over. Should I check my 02 sensor ?
Did you ever get your issue resolved? I have the same problem on my truck. Idles rough/low when warm and don't know the culprit
@@hulk6164 No i ended selling the truck to a cousin of mine.
Did a engine swap from a 22r to a 22er . On start up it would run until warmed up and would stumble and stop. Couldn't get it to run till it cooled off. Was a real head scratcher . 3 days and a number of you tube videos and yours was the one to fix it . The idle screw (1/2 turn open )or air was not open enough . thank you .
Tracy Golden That's great to hear man - glad the video helped you out!
A very clear explanation of how the IAC valve plays into Idle control. Thank you!!!!!!
Gil Bohannon Jr thanks!
I have 22RE with a surging idle and thought it might be the IAC or one of its related parts. Now that I know how it works I can pull it out and clean it. Hopefully that will cure the problem. Thanks for the great info!!!
Ron De TorresThanks! You can also put some tape over that hole on the throttle body and temporarily disable the idle air control circuit to see if that's the problem.
Ray Nada : Ray, good video and very educational, I put water at 200 F and did not close the valve, my question is: how did you get the spring out?
Thank you for making this video. I was suspecting the IAC valve. Still learning my way around the 22re.
Haveing problems with my 85 celiac this has cured them thank you !
Ron McBride that's awesome... glad it helped! :-)
My o ring on screw was cracked up bad. She would surge bad after getting her warm. Replaced the o ring and good to go.
I have been chasing this idle surge/hot no restart for half a decade and you fixed it for me in 6 minutes. Where may I send you a 24 rack of delicious barley pop for adults??
Seriously I owe you for this one!!! 🤙
haha, glad I could help man! Hopefully it fixes up your truck. Thanks for the offer as well, but just clicking like to the video is plenty of thanks enough :-)
@@ray5961 I’ll admit I have a bad habit of not liking more than 80% of the videos I enjoy seeing I just save them on my playlist lol before the video was even over you got the 👍 well earned thank you again 🤙
Very very helpful my man! It has been a pain in the ass trying to trace which sensor is malfunctioningBecause I have a brand new rebuilt motorAnd should not be experiencing issues like this talk about frustrating😤 Anyway very helpful and very easy Break down understanding!!
Very well done! I learned something because it was so clear. Thank you
David Porter thanks!
Really great explanation of how the ICV works, but you need to carry it out one step more--you are not mentioning that rough idling is commonly caused by blockage in the rubber hose and associate coolant line coming into the ICV, which can cause really rough idling...the rubber hose may have to be "roto-rooted" out using a stiff wire (coat hanger) and repeatedly flushed.
Needed to find your comment a long time ago
@@kraptastic333 facts lol
Your video helps me a lot, thanks for explaining.
Excellent! Thank you! I think you just helped me sort out my idle mystery!
I have a Toyota 22re 93modol replaced the throttle position sensor is the bracket in side the housing suppose to be bent? How do they go together?
Hi Jesse - I'm not quite sure I follow what you mean. What part exactly are you asking about, as far as being bent? You might want to search on UA-cam for something like "Toyota TPS sensor replacement" and see if you can catch a glimpse of the inside parts, etc. What I can tell you is that the proper adjustment of the TPS sensor is super critical to the operation of many other parts of the 22RE systems, so it needs to be adjusted right on the money and according to the manual. You need to use a digital volt meter basically as well as feeler gauges. Anyway, let me know what part you are asking about as far as something being bent. I don't quite know what area you are referring to.
@@ray5961 thanks for everything I have looked all over the web site but you push the petal it moves the tps it has two fingers that stick out that makes the tps move thanks for everything
@@Yyyhgghyyggg Yeah, those do have a strange angle to them as I recall. Feel free to email me a pic - address is on the channel about page.
@@ray5961 it's me again Jesse Walker I have replaced the distributor cap button wires tps and set it to specific settings and I have replaced cold air start switch the engine has been rebuilt new and has about 1000 miles on it and it will run good until it worms up and then it dies and fluids and falls the plugs I have bought 4 boxes of NGK plugs I gap them at .30 I have done everything thing I can do I'm tired I keep trying and it doesn't work can you help me please thank you very much
@@Yyyhgghyyggg Hi Jesse - nothing really jumps out at me. Did you try totally blocking off the IAC valve stuff? The only other thing might be you have a faulty temp sending unit (not for the gauge, but for the ECU). It's mounted on the intake manifold near the front / upper radiator hose (just behind it). You might check to see what readings it's putting out. If that fails, it can throw the ECU off. Also, I would confirm the AFM door isn't jammed or anything. On the TPS, did you set it exactly according to the manual using a digital ohm meter? It requires very specific settings. Also, have you done a compression check on the motor, if so what were your readings? Like I say, based on what you have said, nothing really jumps out at me. Do the plugs come out oily? Soaked in fuel? You mentioned the plug are wet and gas fouled?
Amazing video. Thank you for sharing and posting. I learn so much
That's one of the more popular 22RE ones haha :-)
Great video! I will be attempting to do what you just did on my 1994 Toyota pickup next weekend. I'll holler if I have any questions:)
Sounds good! Good luck with your truck.
Did it help? I got the same issue on my 94 pickup
@@DjEnreeq yes, it did help. truck runs great now.
Great video. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks for all the info. Highly appreciate it.
Thank you I like when this is explained
Appreciate y’all
Great video, did very good job at explain the idle control. Thanks alot.
thanks for watching! :-)
I had a problem with surging running rough I clean it still did it. I blew into where the coolant goes in and blew out some trash. That fixed the problem
I had the same problem, I found silicone gasket sealer plugging up the hot water passage holes inside the IAC valve. I used air to blow out water passage holes. Don't know how silicone got there but that's what it was.
I had the exact same thing. When I pulled it all apart, there was a big glob of clear silicone sealer in there. The previous owner of this truck installed a new motor and transmission and some point and they were a little sealant happy in some areas, so I suspect some sealer squeezed the wrong direction and broke off, then found its way to a hole too small to get through. I spent several weeks trying to find the issue, until running across this IAC valve stuff; then had to figure out how it all worked and thought it might help others understand what this crazy system does :-)
I couldn't get the silicon out so bought a new icv on mine
What would be the implications of removing IACV. Rough starts?
I have a offroad only vehicle with a 22RE. I want to delete as much as possible.
Javier Zaragoza Yeah probably so. My guess is it would probably start on a cold morning about as well as having a set of 44mm side draft Mikunis :-) You can certainly test your theory by just blocking off the hole inside the throttle body - see my other video for more info on that. You might need to also disable the cold start injector off the intake plenum as well, but it's hard to say without testing.
The way to regulate the IAC valve is to turn the screw all the way down and return 6 turn CCW, rhis is the original setting.
Thanks I was wondering about that
Thks. Good to know..jc
So I've got it apart, the water passages appear to be clear. Not sure how to diagnose if the pin is stuck. I pulled out the pin and there is a groove at the bottom filled with gunk. It almost seems like there is supposed to be an o-ring or something there.
Anyways now I'm putting it back together and I'm wondering how far to screw in the spring assembly. When I screw it in all the way it closes the gap. Is this normal, or is my valve stuck closed? Otherwise I'd like to know how much of a gap I need.
Also my problem is the opposite, in which it runs fine when it's cold but the rpms drop when it warms up
Christopher Carlson to confirm the pin is working, just run hot water over and around everything or submerge it into some hot water for a minute. Adjust the spring / cone so it shuts the air flow off when hot, but open when cold - that's about it.
@@ray5961@@ray5961 same situation here; I pulled out the pin from the brass cylinder and it has a groove with residues of what appears to have been a very tiny o-ring meant to seal this pin/piston so the air Trapped inside The brass cylinder would expand, pushing the pin/piston out To close the air passage. So, if this o-ring deteriorated to almost nothing, the air escapes from the brass cylinder and the pin does not push the valve closed. Do you now where to get an o-ring this tiny? Or do we need to replace the whole IAC valve because the o-ring is not available?
In my case, I would have to replace the whole throttle body because on my 89 corolla 4AFE engine, the aic valve is part of the throttle body!!
When unscrewing the valve seat, it was very hard and the valve plug kept pushing out against the seat. When I screwed in back on, after having removed and put back the pin, It when in very easily without resistance from the valve plug pushing against. I am thinking of spooling some dental floss on the groove in place of the missing o-ring. I think the pin/piston will not rise without anything sealing it with the brass cylinder. But, I will give it the hot water test before putting it back on the engine.
Again, do you know where to get such a tiny o-ring??
Did it work properly without an o-ring in that groove on the pin?
@@jcplancarte2521 yeah I didn't need to get an o ring. I just cleaned it and calibrated it with hot water like @Ray Nada said, and it worked great!
At first my truck seemed like it was gasping for air. Idle will go up and down. So I changed that part . Started the truck. Sounded great but as I took it a test drive, when I stopped it did the same thing that it was going gasping for air. So turn it off waited 20 minutes or so turn it on sounded great again.
So after watching your video it got me thinking. Well air only goes in only to way. I just put a new part so down there so it can be that. Which leaves the idle control valve. Or the coolant hoes
A feedback will be great. Thanks
Rodrigo Dejesus check the little coolant house under the IAC valve and make sure it's very hot when the motor is fully warmed up. Also, make sure there is no vapor lock or air trapped in the cooling system, which can cause problems sometimes. And make sure the main fuel injectors are getting power and fully grounded.
This video is very informative and I appreciate you taking the time to explain things about the throttle body. However, how do I know how much to adjust the IACV spring? You mentioned allowing a little bit of air to pass by. Does anyone know how much air to allow through the seated spring while cold? Thanks in advance!
Andrew Greene Thanks man! Yeah, I'm with ya on not being totally sure either. The way I initially adjusted it was to warm it up to about 160 and then thread it so it was closed. Then confirmed when it was cold that it was open enough so some air comes through. It's function is to provide fast idle when warming up the motor, so it depends also on how cold or warm an area you live in. I tried to set mine so I'd have a touch less high idle in the morning and figured if needed I could pull it back off and adjust more in if I felt I really needed the car to idle at 2000 RPM's for longer when it's cold. I wasn't able to find any specs in the Toyota service manual as far as setting it initially, although there might be some spec hidden on some page some place.
Ray Nada thank you again, I appreciate it!
Only on a slow rev, it surges once it gets to 2000 rpm but there’s no surge when I drive it down the road regularly and shift it between 2500 & 3000 rpm. Any tips on how to fix that problem thank u
Rylan Salvador I'd check the major stuff, dirty fuel filter, fuel pressure, vacuum leaks
Is it recommended to clean that piece with a spray liquid to try to get it to work again or better to just buy a new one?
It's typically better to clean the original Toyota parts when possible. A lot of the replacement stuff from China isn't that good and/or the OEM Toyota parts are no longer available. I cleaned up mine and it works great now.
My truck starts and runs fine cold. After it gets warned up, it feels like it about to stall.I believe you just explained whats going on. I'm nervous about taking it all apart but it sounds like I may have too.
You can test it by blocking the hole off with some duct tape... see if after doing that the truck has trouble idling when cold, but runs fine once it's up to operating temp. If so, then it usually means the IAC valve is either stuck or no coolant is flowing past it.
Thank you for this video I have a 94 rear wheel drive 22 RE and couldn't find any info on what that spring adjuster was, let alone how in the world it operates in tandem with the air flow.except in the Hanes book stating it had taps that needed to be broke off to adjust.i will admit out of frustration I fiddled with it and noticed idle difference but adjusted it back because it seemed to cause a gurgling sound which I know shouldn't be present in a healty running 22Re motor. Any ideas as to what that gurgle sound is or was would be a much appreciated bonus to your great video👍 best regards from Mark" justa need ta keep her a goin!" FROM
So Cal
Not sure what that sound would be... but there is a gurgling noise associated with the AS (air suction) system when you decelerate. Try capping off the vacuum line going to the AS valve under the intake runners and see if you can make the gurgle noise come and go. That might be what you are hearing.
@@ray5961 wow I'm digging the response time! Will give your sugestion a whirl directly and let you know much appreciated Ray!thank you
@@markevans911 Sounds good!
I know the videos 3 years old but I’m having an issue were my idle surges but also while I’m driving until the motor warms up (roughly 10-15 mins) my truck only works when I floor it. Like for example 1st gear I’ll be going and like clock work at 3 thousand rpm the engine starts to sputter and will even start back firing like I hit the 2 step. The engine has been fully rebuilt, do you think that the IAC could be the cause of my issues. I’ve replaced the afm twice and cleaned the throttle body about 100 lol
It's hard to say, but that doesn't really sound like the IAC. You can easily disable the IAC valve by placing some duct tape over the inlet hole inside the throttle body there. Just cover the hole and that disables the IAC circuit. It simulates it being closed as it should when the motor is up to temp. When you first start the motor, it won't want to idle, but after you drive 5 or 10 miles, it will come up to temp and then if your 3000 RPM thing still is happening, you know you've totally ruled out anything to do with the IAC valve. Usually misfiring has more to do with ignition or valves being out of adjustment. Watch also to see if any blue / white oil smoke is coming out the back during mis-fire. Also, cleaning the spark plugs can sometimes help out. I'd check to ensure the plug wires are good, etc. Also check to make sure the ground strap between the motor and frame is solid and clean. May not hurt to run a compression check as well.
Just a thought, as I try to diagnose my own issue which led me to IAC.. (and I have 3vze or 3.0, not the 22re).
Here's the thing, I've cleaned mine out multiple times..the IAC and TB. And I don't have idle surging or real idle issues. Just a slight shudder and the needle just barely flucuates if you look really closely. But I have extremely intermittent hard start and sometimes it cranks really fast. It will always start, especially if I open throttle plate(and give it air I assume). I really have no idea what my issue is. Sometimes the truck feels like a dead weight and other times it seems responsive. I think I had a egr leak and it had way more power.
But what I want to highlight, is the fact my mechanic told me my engine is running on the low side...168 coolant I think he said. The IAC doesn't even close until 175 or more I think it said in the fsm. Or close, whichever it does when hot.
I'm starting to think this aftermarket aluminum radiator is overcooling my engine! And I have yet to find the bottom radiator hose even more than slightly warm. Thermostat is rated for 180f I think...
Maybe the mechanic did not warm up the engine enough. How do you chck accurate;y the coolant temp? I just have thermo heat gun.
If you have a 180 thermostat then the motor is probably running around 180 since that's where it opens. The radiator isn't going to be able to cool much below that temp, since the thermostat shuts its flow off down around 170 or so. You might want to check to ensure all your fuel injectors are working. You can disconnect the vacuum line going to the EGR and disable it for testing purposes and it's pretty easy to test at idle to see if it's working (just apply vacuum and see if it opens and the motor stalls). As far as the IAC being open a little when warmed up, that shouldn't matter all that much either way. To me it sounds like you have some other issue lurking. To check coolant temp, use your laser gun on a black hose that circulates water off the cylinder head and/or take a reading at the base of where the thermostat installs - that will usually get you within 2-3 degrees of the water temp.
@@ray5961 I just ran the "advanced code test" ...basically you jumper e1 and te2 and drive around. Lucky for me my intermittent no start issue happened when I did this! I got got it started on second attempt and drove around(at least 10mph). I then moved te2 wire to te1 thereby jumpering the normal testing pins.
And like magic code 13 showed it's ugly face!
I had code 12 and 13 in recent past, but they went away after new distributor install. (Keep in mind I'm using cheap aftermarket distributors since original denso costs 600.00.
Apparently the advanced code testing procedure works with starting circuit, so only way to see my issue! In the past before new distributor I would stall while driving...therefore normal code test would bring up code 13. But since then I only have brief no start issue...I'm probably overexplaining..you get the idea.
So now the question is whether my stock distributor and multiple after markets are all faulty...OR there is issue in wire somewhere. I bet the latter which means once solved I can put my oem dist. back on:) (note: 5 different mechanics have failed to find this issue. They simply keep telling me to replace distributor despite no change).
Thanks for those tips...especially the thermo gun test. "2-3 degrees" is exactly the info I needed.
@@TheWeirdSide1 Ignition problems can be tricky. Make sure the inside of the distributor cap is clean and dry; sometimes you can get carbon arching inside there, which will cause issues. I have a diagnostic tool I use, called a TA500 engine analyzer that is real helpful. On your distributor, check the brushing where the shaft rides and see if there is any lateral play at all; sometimes those wear in a funny way and allow for movement on the shaft and certain points. I'd also check the air gap in there and make sure it hasn't slipped.
@@ray5961 Thanks, I'll look into it. 9am-9pm today trying different things..this truck is gonna kill me:)
Help! How do you adjust that pin and screw? I made special tool to unscrew that thing like you did. Now I think everything was fine and I need to screw that back in for right temp... Do you know temp? If I use heat gun to adjust it?
What I did was run water through it from the faucet and measured the temp of the water exiting. Then at about 135-140, I set the cone thing so it just closed. Then ran cold water through and confirmed it was open. Then ran hot water (140) and confirmed it closed again.
@@ray5961 That's very smart! I never expected a reply so soon, cheers. I think I got it close to factory...won't know until tomorrow morning at cold start...
Hey. My 93 T100 after warmup the idle increased. Any idea what my causes it.
Check to make sure both hoses going to and coming from the IAC valve are getting hot. It could be due to the valve not fully closing.
I love your videos
Thanks man!
Hi Ray. Here is what I am in need of help on. I have a 86 toyota truck and my IACV sits beneath the throttle body. I have taken off TB and IACV. I look into the IACV vacuum port and see the vent is about 7/8 closed. I put the IACV in the fridge for 45 minutes and then checked the valve again. It has now opened to about 1/2. Can I assume that the valve is working correctly. The ohms are also within spec. I am hesitant to take IACV apart because there is no gasket available to replace it with. Any help appreciated..thks..jc
LC Engineering might sell the gasket; that's where I bought mine. Also, the way to test it is with heat, not cold. Boil some water and stick the bottom of the IAC into the boiling water (or run super hot water from the sink through the valve ends) and see if once everything gets up to about 130 to 150 or so, does the valve totally close and block air. That's most important.. the blocking air aspect and at what temp does that occur. You want to make sure the valve is totally closed when the temp is up in the 120 or 130+ ranges. The other thing is confirm water flows through those two tubes where the hoses go and that there isn't any junk in there. You can use compressed air to blow that chamber and those pipes open without risking any damage. Mainly the whole system resolves around "when it gets hot, from the coolant, then it shuts air flow off" - that's its job. When it's on the car, you can check to see if water is flowing through it okay by grabbing the little hose that runs from next to the where the thermostat housing is, over to the IAC and see if that hose is getting hot. That's the water flowing into the IAC - then check to make sure the hose where it's flowing out (at the bottom) is also getting hot and about the same temperature. That will confirm the hot water to operate the valve has hot water flowing by it. The main thing to check is does it close when it gets hot. What it's doing when it's room temp or ice cold doesn't matter as much as fully closing when hot. It's job, once the motor warms up, is to block all air flow. So check that and see if that's working or if the valve is sticking at 7/8 closed and not able to get to 100% closed when it's around 130 or more degrees.
@@ray5961 Hi Ray. First....thanks very much for taking the time to write this up. I will give it a try and see if it closes. I guess my test was backwards. Should have been hot instead of cold. If it does not close I guess I have no choice but to take it apart and see if it is gummed up. The two coolant ports are clear as I can blow air in and out. Let you know. Thanks again..jc
Hi Ray.. First, no gaskets available for this iacv. I tested as you suggested. Water temp between 140 and 150. The flap or valve seemed to close, but in looking through the vacuum hole, the valve had two pinhole openings on each side of the flap. I could see light. So I am not sure if that is the way the valve shuts or not. Your input appreciated..thks..jc
Hey @Ray Nada - did you rebuild your throttle body when you had it off? Replace the shaft seals? I see you bought the LCE isle screw. Their ‘rebuild kit’ contains shaft seals as well. I can’t for the life of me get the throttle plate or TPS bracket off after removing their retaining bolts to access the shaft seals.
Hey Jeff - no, that is not something I did. I wasn't aware LCE had a rebuild kit for it, but that might be something worth checking all right. I'll have to take a closer look at mine and see, but as I remember everything seems to be in pretty good shape. On those small Phillips head screws, some of them can be a real bastard to get out. I had to use vice grips on a few of mine and practically destroyed them. Soak them with WD40 if you can. I replaced a lot of those screws (including the two which hole the TPS on) with Titanium allen head bolts, which makes life a lot easier, let me tell ya.
@@ray5961 here’s the best walkthrough I could find: forum.ih8mud.com/threads/22re-throttle-body-breakdown.1231248/
@@jska413 ok great thanks! I'll check that out when I'm in the office later.
@@jska413 Thanks Jeff, that link was super great, Jim
Hi Ray, I Just Found Your Video. I Am Having a Very High Idle Issue With My 1997 Toyota Tacoma. Around 2500 rpms. It started after changing a fuel injector. The iac is leaking coolant through either one of the hose ends or the barb on the valve. My question is do you think the valve is causing this problem or the new fuel injector? I've had to order a new iac anyway because i couldn't get the leak stopped. Thank you for any info you can provide.
hard to say, but it sounds more like a IAC valve sort of issue. Usually the IAC circuit can be blocked off for testing if you look closely
Nice video really informational but what about setting your throttle position sencor i moved mine and seems like it idles much high do you no the correct way to set that thanks kory
Kory Christensen google how to set it and you should find some good info. Also, LC Engineering has a PDF / link that explains the process. The basic idea is that it's an electric switch that tells the ECU the proper angle. You need to use a volt meter as I remember. I need to do the job soon on my motor... I'll see if I can make a video showing how to do it
@@ray5961 cool thanks ray
What can I clean that bottom passage with? I've flush radiator pull iac filled with water flushed again and then with coolant and and I have a new radiator! Help
Compressed air should do it. But the best method is to take the plate off and get in there with a toothbrush.
great lesson
Love the video well said thank you
My 22RE idols rough. I dont know of any vacuum leaks. Should I take apart the throttle body? How do I clean it? How about the EGR Valve? Good video. All info appreciated. Thanks.
Mitchell McMahon might also be your fuel filter or clogged injectors. You might want to have the fuel pressure checked and inspect the seals around the injectors. Many things can result in poor idle. Also bad O2 sensors. Start by pulling any check engine light codes - on the older trucks with OBD1 you have to jumper some pins in the diagnostic port box to get the code. You can use B12 chemtool to do some cleaning without removal - EGR valve is something you should research via youtube and then you can disconnect it to check, but as I recall I don't believe it's open at idle.
I have a 1995 Toyota 4runner v6 a paid a mechanic to do rhe the heads and timing belt kit now when I drive it in the morning to go to work is fine but when I make my first stop and turn off the car and then turn it on back the idle goes up and down and the car died then try again but i have to push the gas in order to keep it running . What should I check?
dannyagm1974 yeah, that's the symptoms this video covers - namely the idle air control. Check to see if the coolant line is clogged up. My guess is some RTV sealant was used during the rebuild and found its way into that small coolant line
@@ray5961 thanks for replaying God bless you people like you are very helpful for the DIY mechanics
Wondering if this is the same for a 3rd gen 4runner. I heard it doesn’t have an idle screw like that I gotta double check because I’m idling at 2500 rpm on cold and even when warm it stays around 2300-2400 rpm. I replaced the tps and it’s still doing the same. I heard rumors about doing a idle relearn but idk how to do that on a 2000 4runner 3.4l. Any advice or tips would help imma also clean everything tomorrow just to make sure as well as clean the iac valve. Thanks a ton for this info boss!!
romello turner I'm not all that familiar with the V6 motor, but you might check to see if there is a cold start timer circuit involved. Also, if there is a cold start injector (like how it's setup on the 22RE), try pulling the wiring harness off that and see if the idle drops - that might help put you on the right track to finding the issue.
Ray Nada thank you soo much for the fast reply! I will definitely try that tomorrow I need my runner back and running normal I should’ve never messed with it in the first place haha thanks a ton!!
Ray Nada. My idle is too low, like 300 rpm. I adjust the idle screw and bring it up to 1000 but a day later it settles back to 300 and almost turns off. This is only after the car is fully warmed up. When it is first started it idles at 1500 rpm. Can the IAC valve cause this ?
I don't think the IAC valve would cause this. If anything, it would cause the motor to run at too high (and/or an unstable) RPM. You can certainly test it by blocking the hole I show in the video, which provides air. Just remove the intake hose to the throttle body and cover the hole with some duct tape (wrap the edge out of the intake hose, so the tape can't end up being sucked into the motor). However, I think what might be causing your issue could be failed injectors. Let me explain why: when the car is cold, there is a cold air injector (located in the middle of the intake manifold, with a hard fuel line running up to it) and this injector adds gas when the motor is cold. There is a timer which turns it off once the motor warms up (it's one of those two sending units on the intake runner manifold below the throttle body inlet. If your main fuel injectors are not working and/or not supplying gas to the motor, it can cause a low or unstable idle (as not the correct amount of fuel is being delivered to the motor). However, when the motor is cold, the 5th injector for the cold air is working and providing gas, which tends to mask the fact that one or more of the other main fuel injectors isn't working. There are a few tests you can do.. start by using a screw driver to see if you can feel each of the main injectors clicking (or put a hose up to it and listen with your ear through the hose). A properly operating fuel injector should make a little clicking noise. If I have time, I'll make a video showing what I mean. Anyway, the other thing you can do is disable the cold air fuel injector on the intake manifold by just unplugging it. Then the motor will be forced to operate only on the 4 main injectors, even when cold. If the motor exhibits the incorrect (i.e. super low) idle when the 5th injector is unplugged, then it might mean the main injectors aren't working. If I have a minute, I'll upload another video later this week. Anyway, those are some things I would check out. Also, check the wiring to your O2 sensors and also you might consider taking them out to test them (there are videos showing how to test them on UA-cam).
@@ray5961 I will definitely look into these. Can you explain however, if the injectors are not working, how can the engine be responsive when pressing the gas pedal? They seem to inject all the fuel I need. If anything, the car runs too rich and makes a puttering sound like the engine is bogged down when I step hard on the gas.
My 1991 4runner stops running while I drive but the electrical power stays on, could this be my problem?
Probably not related to the IAC valve. Does it stop abruptly or does it stumble a few times first then die?
@@ray5961 abruptly
@@skidaddleskadoodle563 That sounds more like an electrical issue to me, aka loss of spark. Is there any sort of check engine light? After it stops, then what happens? Does it crank right back over and drive fine again?
@@ray5961 When it stops it just rolls to a stop, yet the powers to electrical stuff is on. Sometimes when I crank it starts back up but then dies immediately after, then after that it takes a few more cranks.
@@skidaddleskadoodle563 It sort of sounds like it could be a fuel pump issue. Have you ever changed the fuel filter? If you have a 22RE, it's usually bolts on the right side of the block. If you can check fuel pressure at the fuel rail, that would be a good idea. It could also be the igniter. The other thing would be a faulty switch inside the AFM (check my other videos).
what symtoms? mine idols real high and takes a very long time to go down. Imthinking that spring is not working correctly. can you spray anything into the hole on the throttle body? Like a white lithim or a deep creep?or would that damage the IAC
Most likely it's restricted flow of coolant through the lines. I'd start by removing the lines and checking them and/or blow some compressed air through those water fittings when the lines are off. You would try spraying some WD-40 in there, but it sounds like the spring is probably okay. Use your hand when the car is warming up to see if those hoses get hot also... they should get immediate coolant flow and warm up rather quickly.
Mine idles great, but then when i drive along at a low speed say 30 miles an hour , sometimes not always it kind of surges slow ,fast slow fast . But under load smooth as butter?. Any ideas.
Could be a number of things, but I would definitely check the fuel filter & fuel pressure. Also check your plugs to see if any our fouled or showing signs of oil or anything. You can always disable the IAC valve by blocking off that one main hole, just to rule it out.
@@ray5961 thanks for responding, yes fuel filter makes sense i will change it . Its a good idea in any case . I haven't owned
It all that long so i don't know when the last time that was done . Thanks again.
@@lawrenceparker1523 well, congrats on the truck. If it is new and hasn't been maintained that well, there could be a lot of small areas which need attention. I'd check the function of the air suction system as well as the EGR system and/or just outright disable them both while trying to narrow down what is wrong. Of course, a compression check and also valve adjustment never hurts on the 22RE. I also run my truck at 8 degree BTDC and have found that to be a lot nicer than the factory 5 degree suggestion. Also, try dumping a can or two of fuel injector cleaner into the gas tank. I use either Berryman B12 fuel injector cleaner or sometimes Sea Foam concentrated fuel injector cleaner and have had real good luck with that. I also generally flush the engine oil with Motor Medic engine flush prior to changing the oil and filter. Also Denso W16EXR-U are about the only plug worth running. I run an MSD blaster coil (the high vibration one, I think the part # is 8222 if I remember correctly) and their 9.5mm red wires. I also have found that just grinding off the ground strap on the plugs makes the motor run a lot smoother. I know it sounds crazy, but it works. The other thing is taking off the intake manifold and cleaning them. If the EGR system has been running for countless miles, it gets really dirty inside there. Also make sure the PCV stuff is working well, as the stock 22RE has borderline enough vacuum to keep the positive crankcase pressure in check. Also check the wiring to the O2 sensors (mainly the upstream one) as the ECU relies on that feedback heavily while cruising in closed loop. Also definitely check the TPS (throttle position switch). It needs to be working smooth and also needs to be adjusted right on the money. You might also clear the ECU fuel tables, but pulling out the 15A EFI fuse for about 5 or 10 minutes, then plugging it back in. That will force the ECU to sort of reset and rebuild its long term trim tables, etc.
@@ray5961 lots of information right there i use sea foam in my Honda shadow 600 and never had a problem with it . And 8 degree i will try right away. It is not insured at this time but i will start with gas line filter , sea foam , and 8 degree and those new plugs and wires keep me busy for awhile.i am not sure what you mean by ground strap on the plugs?
@@lawrenceparker1523 Make sure to set the 8 degrees with the diagnostic jumper in - google it and/or check the service manual and you can see how it's done if that's something new to you with the 22RE. As far as the ground strap, I mean the part on the spark plug that wraps up and over the electrode - where you gap the spark plugs - I grind the ground strap part totally off and just run the plugs with the center electrode sticking out and no strap whatsoever, although the MSD blaster coil is 45,000 volts vs. the factory probably 30Kv. You can also just cut back the strap so it exposes 50% of the top of the ground button electrode and you'll get nearly the same results. I like totally doing away with the ground strap myself. Also make sure all your electrical grounds between the cylinder head, block, frame to block, valve cover to fire wall, etc. are all clean and secure. Good grounding really helps improve spark.
Hi Ray. Have a 86 22re efi. Do you know where to obtain gasket for the air control valve by chance? Thks..jc
Check out LC Engineering - that's where I found mine. You can also google "toyota parts" and you should find the Toyota parts website, with exploded views. You can usually search their website, find the part #, then search for that part # via ebay and google - that's how I track down all my hard to find parts :-) Or just call the dealer and hope you find a parts counter guy that still knows a PCV valve from a PVC pipe :)
@@ray5961 Have not had any luck. IAC, itself, has been discontinued for my year and I see no gasket in exploded views of throttle body diagrams I have looked at....thks..jc
Your the man great video
Great video
Thanks!
Thanks! I thought my IAC was FUBAR! Why is there coolant??? lol did not expect any coolant on that part. Did not see coolant in any other videos. learned something today.
haha yeah, it has coolant circulating through it all the time the motor is running to make it work :)
You're awesome.
Hey brother I just bought me a toyota pickup with a high idle. I would screw the idle screw all the way down but still with high idle. I swapped out the IACV with a new one but its still idling high. I also noticed my temperature is alot cooler than normal operating temp, but I had already changed out the thermostat for a 180 degree. No luck, any help I really appreciate it.
Check to make sure that little line which circulates coolant around under the IAC valve is getting hot and is not plugged up. The other thing you can do is to close the air bypass hole (which is shown in the video there) with some duct tape. That will simulate the IAC closing - just make sure to hang the edge of the duct tape out and fold it over when you put the rubber intake back on. When the IAC gets hot, it closes that air passes. If you manually block it using duct tape, and the idle drops down, then you know the IAC isn't getting hot enough (or something) to shut that passage way. I would start there and see what happens.
Any idea where can I buy the o ring for the throttle screw??
Ismael Rodríguez I buy all my O-rings from McMaster. Here's another option, which is what I run on my motor - www.lceperformance.com/22RE-Idle-Speed-Adjusting-Screw-Stainless-Steel-p/1061049.htm
thank you.
Thank you Ray!!!
Thanks
can you show how it is controlled when its assembled and what ur suposed to do about it ?
ann henry There's nothing really to show; when the coolant gets hot, the pin expands and closes the airway. That's the entire function. If you have a more specific question you're wondering about, let me know.
I made a tool to remove that spring in order to clean everything but that special fine threaded but would not back out very far. obviously the threads were dirty. did u have problems removing yours?
Yes, it was a nightmare to get out, even with everything in the vise and where I could see it. Even with WD40 and some mild heat, it was slow going backing out until the last few turns. Once it was out, I cleaned everything up and then it was okay. I think it was due to 30 years of corrosion
@@ray5961
do u happen to know what the recommended setting is as far as number of turns to back off after it's bottomed out??
thanks
Dumbass I wasn't able to find any info in the manual. What I ended up doing was setting it so it closed at about 140 or so degrees and then figured I could go back later and fine tune things based on how the truck ran
@@ray5961
I hate that how they keep info guarded. I guess they expect everyone to buy a new vehicle every 7/10 years. but poor folk, like myself, don't have funding to do so.
@@jb-ik8sj per comment above, 6 turn
I have a 94’ 4Runner V-6. It is also having a surging idle problem. The idle adjustment screw has no effect. The TPS was replaced but I don’t think that is the issue.
Mr. Nagy you can test it by putting some tape over the hole inside the throttle body that goes to the idle control valve
The fuel pressure regulator vsv switch !!!
So, can it be cleaned out and fixed or does it need to be replaced?
Yeah, you can open it up and clean it all out. LC Engineering sells the gasket you need. I just cleaned mine in the sink with a brush and put it all back together. Works like a champ!
@@ray5961 I'm partial to 22reperformance.com but I'm gonna try cleaning the throttle body and the IAC and see if that helps. It only did the surging idle two times and the last few times I drove it, it idled fine.
Would this cause it not to high idle when the motor is cold
Hey Nick - yeah, if the IAC valve is stuck in the closed position, it would prevent it from idling high at start up. The basic operation is the IAC valve is open when cold, which allows extra air into the intake (that kicks the idle up, similar to holding the throttle open a bit). As coolant warms up and flows around the IAC circuit (the two small hoses which run to it), the valve slowly warms up and closes; this shuts off that extra air passage (the one you can see inside the throttle body on the left kinda). When everything is working correctly, it should be totally off by around 130-140 degrees (coolant temp) or something around that. Adjusting it to be exactly right is a total hassle, so if you start messing around with it be sure to carefully mark the factory settings and count how many turns the nut thing in there turns backwards). Hope that helps.
@@ray5961 yesterday it randomly shot up to 1800 rpms when fully warn after driving around now this morning it didn't high idle
@@nickwinter2145 Check the rubber elbow boot that attaches to the throttle body for cracks/tears. Also have you done any thing to seal the coolant system recently? Such as silicone on gaskets or anything? That can block those tiny hoses going to the IAC. You can check to make sure the IAC is getting warm coolant through those hoses, just by touching the upper and lower hoses and making sure they are both the same temp and hot. You can also totally block off the function of the IAC system by blocking that hole inside the throttle body with some duct tape.
@@ray5961 I haven't used any silicone in the coolant system
@@nickwinter2145 ok that's probably a plus. Definitely check those two hoses to make sure they are getting warm. If not, there could be a blockage inside the IAC valve passages back there. If you have any other questions, feel free to hit me up!
Ray, good video and very educational, I put water at 200 F and did not close the valve, my question is: how did you get the spring out?
Reinaldo Gonzalez I had to make a spanner to fit the slots on the nut, then unscrew it and the spring comes out. It's the round nut that the little cone / nose part goes into that you see in the video there. It's hard to break free; I am going to make a better tool to use (probably from an old socket or something).
Ray Nada : thanks
Ray Nada : disarm the IAC, but I do not know how much should be left open, you know? If you give me your email, I can send you a photo of the nail extractor that you can modify to turn the piece and remove the springs, very easy.
Thks. Great info..jc
Nice vid and rebuild!
Do you recall the factory setting of the threaded piece for the spring? (Number of turns)
Christopher Rizzuti No, I wish I knew. As I remember, I put it in hot water to see how it worked and then I adjusted it so when it was cold it was open (allowing air to flow), but when it got up to around 100-120 degrees it should be closed. It only needs to allow air flow through until the motor starts to heat up. I'm hoping I don't need to take mine back off to readjust it once I fire up the motor.
@@ray5961 Dang! Ok, thank you for the reply.
Per comment above, 6 turn per factory.
@@dolceamore4065 Thank you!
My 86 4runner has 3 vac lines ontop not 4 like yours. Why is that?
That is just one of the great mysteries of the universe :) I'm not super familiar with the setup on the 86, but if you wanna send me some pics to the email address on the channel, I'm happy to take a look and see if I can make heads or tails out of anything. You're referring to the small 4mm hoses that connect off on the left side of the throttle body right? I have another video on my channel where I discuss the routing of all those hoses in more depth by the way.
@ray5961 I'm talking about on the top of throttle body there's 4 vac lines all the same size. A cluster of 3 then another one more towards radiator. I only have the cluster of 3
This video here gives a pretty good run down of what everything does - ua-cam.com/video/rcKjFEYHk28/v-deo.htmlsi=PuAr1EBmNDWqj7VC - maybe your truck doesn't have an EVAP system on it? The 3 main lines on my truck are all related to the EGR system and the vacuum modulator. The 4th is to draw fumes out of the EVAP canister.
@ray5961 I uploaded a video with my problem please take a look when you have time
What about the tps sensor dose that impact the rough idle ?
Christian Kanahele Having the TPS out of adjustment definitely wouldn't help matters. It's pretty easy to adjust though. Just get a volt meter and follow the info in the manual. Usually it's adjusted correctly unless someone has loosened the screws.
@@ray5961 I could really use your help my idle has been rough ever sense I do’s a head gasket replace. My idle bounces whenever my truck is warm. But after it’s been warmed up for about 10 min the bouncing of the idle stops. And when ever I press on my break it goes back to the bouncing idle. And as soon as I talk my feet off the break it stops. I tried asking people that know a little about 22re but none of them know so I was hoping you could help ? Please I really need help ? 👍🏾
@@christiankanahele5882 Did you ever find your Brake issue on the 22RE. I have a 94 that does the same thing.. Found if I take out the stop light fuse it doesn't do it. Thinking it's a excess voltage drop causing Alternator to pull to hard with the load. Thinking it might be a Weak or low battery and was going to check that tomorrow to see if that's it..
Do you have Part nbr for IAC gasket or where to get it? ...thks..jc
J C I bought it from LCE - here's the link www.lceperformance.com/Idle-Air-Compensator-Valve-O-Ring-89-95-22RE-OEM-T-p/1061047.htm
@@ray5961 Thanks Ray..jc
@@ray5961 Thanks Ray. Unfortunately I have an 86. Thks..jc
Ray how did you remove the valve with the spring? What kind of wrench did you use?
I took a pair of needle nose pliers and ground slots into the ends, then used vise grips to hold that and turn - but I was working on a bench also, with plenty of room. The method I would probably suggest now is to take a socket and grind it down until it just has those two tabs you need; that will help a lot as far as indexing up into that area and not slipping. Also, spray WD40, as those threads are super tight on there if that collar has never been loosened before. I had a heck of a time getting mine off - even after it started to turn, I thought something was wrong, because it was jammed in there so tightly. I was actually sort of surprised when it finally came all the way out and the threads were not destroyed. When it was coming off, it felt like it had been cross threaded or something bad. But it cleaned up and went back in fine. I would not recommend attempting to do it with the throttle body on the car, by the way. It's much easier to remove it and work on a bench. Good luck!
@@ray5961 Thank you for the advice. I'm going to try the socket method. I'm currently rebuilding my 22re and going thru every component on the engine.
Perfect
What would cause a wicked surge only going up a steep grade. its wheeler replaced complete harness/computer/ tps/ afm/fuel pump/fuel filter/no vacuum leaks/ only does it on steep inclines at a steady throttle don't matter if its half throttle. and a full tank of fuel or 1/4 tank.
Kyle Fievez That's a hard one. Have you checked the fuel pressure boost circuit stuff? There is a VSV solenoid that opens to boost fuel pressure; you can bypass it and run the vacuum hose direct to the manifold to test it. Also check to see if the pressure thing on the fuel rail is functioning to boost pressure. Does it also do it when cold?
Kyle Fievez also, what octane gas are you running? It could be the knock sensor is retarding the timing on hills and causing the surging. This could be what's happening, especially if you using lower octane gas. Try 92 octane and/or test the knock sensor on the right side of the block. Also carbon build up in the cylinders could be making things worse in a similar way; the carbon can get a hot spot and cause detonation which will trigger the knock sensor and surging.
I taped off the hole in mine and it runs better for about 30 seconds and then stalls. Before I taped it it stalled after like 5. So I wonder if this is my issue.
Hard to say, but it's normally if you tape that hole closed, then it disabled the entire IAC valve stuff; that means the motor should idle fine once it warms up a bit (around 3-4 miles of driving). If it's still stalling with the hole closed by the tape (and it's warmed up), then it's probably not the IAC but something more. You might want to check to see if all your injectors are working. You might also want to check the O-ring around the idle adjustment screw. But the fact that it did change things tends to suggest an air/fuel ratio issue. What do you have the engine idle RPM's set to?
@@ray5961 I bought my truck and the drive it home and drove it for a day and on the way home it was revving up and down fast and I parked it and now it just fires up good but after 5 seconds the idle drops and stalls after misfire. But I’ve checked a list of things including iacv and egr etc. but maybe it’s my afm idk. Super frustrating though lol
@@ray5961 I have spark and my fuel pump pumps fuel. I changed the fuel filter. So I think maybe afm just because of it maybe not cutting on fuel pump? Cause I don’t hear it turn on. I used the diagnostic box to activate fuel pump is how I got the gas to come. But I don’t think it’s activated or not for long cause the air. I have a crack in my boot that goes to my throttle body. And I taped it. So could be that too. It’s weird
@@heyitsbryce ok try this - go into the little diag box (next to the fuse box in the engine compartment) and jumper Fp and B+ with a paper clip or wire (this will force the fuel pump on) and then start the car and see if the truck runs.
@@heyitsbryce I might be the circuit opening relay has failed. Let me know if the truck works correctly when Fp and B+ is jumpered. The fuel pump comes on when you work the stater, to start the motor. Once air starts flowing through the AFM, the AFM grounds the circuit opening relay and this relay powers the fuel pump. So if that relay fails, the truck will start (when the starting circuit provides fuel), but it won't run once things are handed over to the AFM if the circuit opening a relay has failed. If the truck runs when Fp and B+ are jumpered (which by passes that relay), then it's probably the relay, which is located over in the passenger side kick panel and behind the glove box - it has a dark grey 6 pin connector.
My icv had a blockage from gasket maker so it had lobbing idle.
That would do it. That's very common. Too much RTV or gasket maker getting stuck in there. Mine had a similar issue.. some silicone was jammed up in the IAC circuit.
I have a 91 Toyota celica and when I drove and try to keep the speed will drop off and the idle and kind of pull off itself
Orlando Tejeda Could be clogged injectors or maybe low fuel pressure. I'd also check your plugs and check to see if the cylinder chambers have excessive carbon build up
@@ray5961 thank you very much for the information and I will find out soon thanks again
@@ray5961 now the take time to hearing your video I'm going to clean up the throttle body and see how it goes... it really bother me to drove my car and when I try to keep the speed it will kick-off and drop off the idle and kind of pull off itself
how did you remove the pin
?
ALFREDO GALLEGOS RESENDIZ I had to make a spanner tool. It wasn't fun, at all.
this rules
@UCmGyD1O2xMhhRYDn1D2cK_g same situation here; I pulled out the pin from the brass cylinder and it has a groove with residues of what appears to have been a very tiny o-ring meant to seal this pin/piston so the air Trapped inside The brass cylinder would expand, pushing the pin/piston out To close the air passage. So, if this o-ring deteriorated to almost nothing, the air escapes from the brass cylinder and the pin does not push the valve closed. Do you now where to get an o-ring this tiny? Or do we need to replace the whole IAC valve because the o-ring is not available?
In my case, I would have to replace the whole throttle body because on my 89 corolla 4AFE engine, the aic valve is part of the throttle body!!
When unscrewing the valve seat, it was very hard and the valve plug kept pushing out against the seat. When I screwed in back on, after having removed and put back the pin, It when in very easily without resistance from the valve plug pushing against. I am thinking of spooling some dental floss on the groove in place of the missing o-ring. I think the pin/piston will not rise without anything sealing it with the brass cylinder. But, I will give it the hot water test before putting it back on the engine.
Again, do you know where to get such a tiny o-ring??
JC Plancarte Very interesting. I've never taken the brass pin apart. On the O-ring you should be able to get a high temp one from McMaster
Mine idles rough once warmed up after driving for about 10 minutes when I hit the brakes it drops idle and when I release brake it idles back up.
Let’s Help Each Other usually that's a vacuum leak some place, as the brake booster is actuated from engine vacuum. Search "vacuum leaks scotty kilmer" here on youtube and you should find some helpful videos
I appreciate it however the booster is holding vacuum and it's new
@@Dusty.Does.it. did you ever find out about your idle/ vacuum/ brake issue? Just rebuilt my 22re now it's doing the same thing you described.
@@TheMillertym58 yes, the idle control valve was seized. Didnt have to take anything apart just the throttle body off the intake. If you can hit the throttle body on your hand it should vibrate like a spring is inside. Mine didnt budge felt like a solid piece. I took an old throttle body from my brothers carb swapped 4runner and runs great!
@@Dusty.Does.it. Hey, mine has the same problem. It runs perfect cold but drops way down to about 300 RPM. I'm gonna go mess with it, thanks for replying with your fix. Also thanks to the guy that made this video.
I cleaned the throttle body, replaced the air/idle control valve, replaced the idle set screw o ring, replaced the pcv valve, replaced the air filter, new plugs, wires, cap and rotor. Even replaced the fuel filter. Still idles rough. Can anyone tell me what might be the cause?
I also ran sea foam through twice to try and clean the injectors.
Perry Johnson Check to see if there are any engine codes. Also, you might want to check to make sure your O2 sensors are okay. I'd also do a compression check. Check the fuel pressure at the rail as well. Watch the Cris fix video about dirty fuel filters
Good, i will see for my fortuner 2010 idle is low to 350 .
Can you please make more videos on your Ferrari. I really enjoy your Ferrari videos. Thank you.
The.Reckless ISF I sold the 488 a few days ago. I'm thinking about getting an 812 Superfast though! :-) Right now it's all about the toyota pickup
@@ray5961 that's awesome man. I be on the look out for the 812 superfast for sure.
You said it means the engine is getting too much air. You didn't say too little air. Why are you so sure ?
Doug H. in VA If the IAC valve isn't working, then usually that air passage will be left open, which allows extra air into the motor. Under throttle it's not a big deal, because that air is metered air. However, when the throttle plate is closed, the extra air going into the motor is basically acting like someone is holding the plate open and allowing extra air in, even though everything else expects that the motor is at idle. So it almost functions similar to when you pull the PCV hose off and allow extra air in - which negatively affects idle.
@@ray5961 I think I understand your explanation, but it seems to me you are telling what happens when the IAC does not work. To me it makes more sense to explain how it normally works and the role of the barrel type device that opens and closes and why in addition to the 2 radiator coolant pipes and how its temperature has a role. Most guys are not car guys and do not care much or think much about how devices in a car work. Simplify what to do and the cheap, reliable, and simple remedy.and how to get to it.
I just bought a gnu IAC valve 200 bucks. My 1990 Toyota pick up would not even idol
I have an '89 Toyota pickup 22re and it has a rough warm idle and occasionally stalls. It runs and idles fine when cold though. Could the IAC valve be bad because it didn't look that dirty when I removed it.
Mercury Blues could be there is a coolant blockage via the two small hoses that run to and from it. I'd start by checking those. Check and see if the line that loops up from the fitting on the thermostat housing is hot when the motor is up to operating temp
Great video
My 89 22re surges high to about 3k rpm when cold start , stays there until about half warm, rough idle always when warm . Could that be the idle air valve ? Or a leaky cold start injector ?
Max B Could be a leak around the idle adjuster screw also, or a vacuum / air leak in general some place. It's easy enjoy to rule in or out the cold start injector... just unplug the connector to it. If you think it's leaking, pull it out and jumper the diag block on the OBD1 port to turn the fuel pump on and see if it sprays gas out. I would also check the EGR valve to see if it's stuck open.
Thank you