Table Save ; Fixing a Huge Epoxy Mistake
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- Опубліковано 28 січ 2022
- In this video we show how to save and epoxy river table failure. The issues we have here is that the wood pulled away from the epoxy and cracked down the seam. we will go over step by step how to fix this huge mistake .
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The video you never want to make BUT the video everyone wants to watch. Great job as always bubba
😂 you’re right about that
Great job! I will keep this in mind if I run in to a similar problem.
I started drilling holes on my coloured epoxy tables it's the only thing I added when watching ur videos on how to build them
Thanks for all ur hard work 👍
Thank you! You’re very welcome!!
Great video on explaining the table fix. Glad you figured the problem out snd explained it. Looks like it turned back out nice. Great job and video. Keep up the good work .
And by the way !! Get that garage together … lol
Nice work man. Your videos are a huge help. Thank you so much
You’re welcome! Thanks for the kind words.
Brilliant, I've just discovered the same mistake on a clack that I made! Thanks, I can fix it now
I’ve been waiting on this video. Lesson learned. Nice work repairing that beauty.
Thanks dude! Yeah I’ve been trying to get this video out for a while
I've been doing the dowl holes for a couple of years now and have had great results with it. I drill the holes, seal the edges, wait about 3 to 5 hours and then pour the epoxy. If I have to pour in multiple stages, besides the holes in the sides I also make holes in each layer to anchor the top layer to the bottom layer.
Oh nice! That is a great idea
The drilled holes make sense I live in WA Australia very humid and everyone has aircon thanks for the tip
Thanks for the video you answered my question
You’re very welcome
Great video this hasn’t happened to me yet but if it does I’ll know what to do, so thanks a lot.
Not a problem 😉
I just started doin it. Love it
Very good lesson learned… Hope I don’t go there…
Nat…that came apart so easy, no wonder you had trouble with it..
It came out really good in the end.. great work…
Thank you so much. Yet it was crazy how it just popped off like that.
Nice fix bruh!! Keep up the good work!!
Thanks Tony!!
Great to see an honest admission to a fault. It happens to everyone at one time or another, The fix made sense and copies a previous video where you suggested drilling holes prior to sealing the edges. Do you now recommend NOT sealing an edge and if so what do you suggest we do with the possibly continuous air bubbles that come out of unsealed wood ?
Have a blessed day !
Great question! I suggest using the correct type of epoxy and to cool down the temp of the epoxy once it has been poured. You need to use a thick pour casting epoxy and use a fan and/or drop the temp of the room your pouring in. This will allow the epoxy to set much slower which in turn give the bubble a chance to rise to the surface.
Nice job Nathan.
Thanks for the tips. Do you still seal the edges? I guess the difference is to pour the epoxy while the seal is still tacky and drill holes in the wood (not necessarily biscuit holes)?
Hi Nathan, really like your channel i have just gotten started. I had woodshop in HS back in the day and liked it. We recently built a small cabin and i got a live edge cedar slab and made a coffee table not much more than sanding (I purchased a belt sander for the heavy work, as the slab was quite oxidized). It came out great. Then i made my sister a coffee table out of curly maple. It turned out batter as i have refined my finishing and she loved the coffee table. So i have been getting prepared to do a poured charcuterie board. I saw on the epoxy fail you used a belt sander. I am looking for a small planer. Could i also use the belt sander on the boards I will be making after they come out of the molds? I would like to do a river table some day, but want to start small with the boards first. One other question, I’ve seen a couple of different videos maybe some of yours where you mentioned a seal coat, but others you didn’t use a seal coat. Which do ,you recommend?.
hey nate have you used any of the ceramic pertection on the rubio that black forest sells man thanks so much that was a awesome fix hats off to ya
Good video. Are you confident that the joint on the other side of the river will not split? Also, my concern with the angled holes is that unless the epoxy is very viscous, the hole will seal off and not fill. The angled hole is a good fix, but I think you would have a better chance of filling it if was drilled on the same plane as the table surface. Thanks for the info.
Great vid, I really like to use an angle grinder with wire wheel to remove all softwood from the edges. Works great. I've also seen people do resin bow ties with countertop connectors in the bow tie inlay and then pour resin on top.
Thank you! Oh that’s super interesting 🤔 I haven’t seen the countertop connectors in the resin yet .
@@GoodViewWoodworks I can post the link for it if you like. Let me know. Thought it was a cool idea.
@@coopaloop727272 of course shoot it my way!!
@@GoodViewWoodworks ua-cam.com/video/eHrKHjtpSps/v-deo.html There you go
When you do a flood coat, how long do you wait to do the other side? Good fix on table
Awsome job. Good an solid now baby😎🙏. I seen ur mdf on ground with tape bro. In ur new shop go on n snatch u up a sheet or two of 4’x8’ 1/2”hdpe no more tapin🥳🎉
I went back and watched the build video before commenting, I'm going to guess that another issue is the lack of allowance for wood movement in the way you attached the base to the tabletop. It looks like there are no slots at all in the holes drilled through the steel base. So as the wood expands and contracts throughout the seasons it's held rigidly by the steel frame, so something has to go, normally you'd see some kind of crack in the wood.
I have a river table I built in my living room, the pits that I filled with black epoxy actually bulge a little proud of the surface in the summer but then return to flat in the winter, as that's when I poured the epoxy and it originally cured.
Thank you! I assume you sealed the edge with epoxy, so If the black pour didn't attach to the sealed sides, how come it attaches to the old resin?
thanks bro
What about the other side of the epoxy coming apart also? Was it sealed as well?
It seperated because you didnt allow any movement to your leg mounts for wood movement. Start using oval holes on your base mounts.
Question : When I pour my epoxy in layers for my charcuterie board, do I need to sand the previous layer?
Thanks, great channel and videos 👍
Great question. If you let the previous layer fully cure then, yes. But you can pour the next layer on top of the previous layer is still soft/tacky
When I seal my edges I pour while the epoxy seal is still tacky
I have a question, great video. I'm about to try to do one of these soon. When you sealed the edges, did you scuff them up before your deep pours? Or alternatively I've read some people seal the edges, but only wait 5-8 hours or so to do the deep pour while the edges are still tacky? I believe Liquid Glass recommends that to make sure you get a good chemical bond. I want to do a somewhat transparent pour, so I'd like to seal the edges just to make sure I don't get any staining or air bubbles in my deep pour.
I still would not seal the edges but if you still do then use the “wait until tacky” method.
Always seal da fakin edges haha. Drill holes before the deep pouring. No better results than that. I hope help you. Auf wiedersehen.
I got a huge crack (1/2”) in my epoxy pour. Any ideas how to fix it?
I got a huge (1/2”) crack in my epoxy pour, any ideas how to fix it?
I like the premise of the dowl holes. The only question I have is how do you know that the holes filled with epoxy. Wouldn't the air in the holes have enough pressure to keep the epoxy from entering. Something like when you put glue in a dowel hole then drive a dowel in . The excess has to have somewhere to go. Ther I think I have confused this post enough. Have a great day Nathan.
When the epoxy fills the river and slowly fills the dowel holes, all of the air is pushed out. No dowels were actually used. When the epoxy hardens you now have epoxy “dowels” holding it together.
I did a epoxy pour on a desk top. It split length wise. How should I fix it? Do I have to remove the top from the desk or could I just use a clear flood coat? Edges are sharp
Send me an email with some pictures and I could better answer your question.
nathanporter87@gmail.com
I alway drill holes into edge to strengthen the joint also
I’m a material scientist specializing in polymer resin and I have absolutely no idea what you were talking about when you say don’t seal the edges. The physics of doing an epoxy seal on the edge are exactly the same as doing a live cast. There is literally no difference if you epoxy seal the edge. the wood physically changed dimensions. There is no stopping that from separating. my tables have the same problem because where I’m at is also high humidity the only solution is to totally seal the entire table in the thin epoxy layer. Then there is no exchange of moisture ever again.
Would this be an argument from authority? Wouldn’t that be a logical fallacy??
The only time I have ever had a problem with the edges separating was when I sealed the edges. I have not had a single failure by not doing so…. So I will continue with what works! I’ve only built over 100 of these things… see what I did there?
Would you drill the holes and not seal the edges on a wide inlay pour? We appreciate your videos , they are helpful.
When you say “inlay” what exactly do you mean? Also, I usually don’t drill into the edge. This was just to ensure a good bond with the epoxy to epoxy bond and the wood to epoxy bond. This is because some of the live edge had some epoxy that was still present. Hope this makes sense.
@@GoodViewWoodworks when I say an inlay we just rout out a design in the wood up to 1/2 the depth of the wood. We aren't putting a river in-between 2 pieces of wood. Does this make sense?
Hi what was the cost for building a table that size? Nice repair looks well
Are you looking to purchase a table like this? If so you can reach me at nathanporter87@gmail.com
So what if the other side breaks loose now. Did you leave the Cambium layer on that side as well? Just curious.
Great question. I’m assuming that because the other side isn’t straight and hasn’t separated then I must have gotten that layer off better than the other side. The table has been in his place for 3 years. If it hasn’t separated yet then it probably won’t later on.
Did you originally seal the edges to keep the liquid dye from migrating into the wood?
Well, I originally sealed the edges so that I wouldn’t get air bubbles around the edges and because that was the directions I was given by people who had just started doing river tables as well.
So you’re not sealing the edges of any of the pieces you’re doing now? I’ve done some cutting boards since I started watching your channel and have sealed my edges. No issues yet, “knocks on wood”, but do you think I should not seal them on my future projects?
I don’t think it’s as much of a big deal on smaller projects but no, I don’t seal them at all. I want the strongest possible bond I can get.
Please help me bro I need advice I’m doing a live edge slab for a Barber Shop and I messed up i have an uneven seal coat what do I do sand it and pour a flood coat??
The unevenness will come out with the flood coat. Just sand down the high spots with 120 grit and pour a flood coat.
I’ve starting using clear gorilla glue in my repairs, I had a piece separate when it dried more after it was delivered. Have you used anything like this in your repairs.
I’m not sealing the edges anymore and I love making the holes so the resin creates dowels.
I haven’t but I have been trying out some new fast cure resins for this exact reason. When I do some more testing I’ll post a video. Thanks for commenting!!
@@GoodViewWoodworks I look forward to it. So far the Gorilla Glue has worked. Fingers crossed. I’ve learned so much from your videos.. thank you
@@Resinwoodesigns you’re welcome! Thank you for watching
do you think if you would have used c channels would have it separated?
I think it still would have separated because when you place c-channels in the underside you don’t lock them down super tight you leave them a quarter turn loose on the bolts for wood movement. The c-channels keep the slab from cupping. The legs that were on it were steel and were tight so the table wasn’t falling apart or anything. Hope this makes sense.
an epoxy dowel is like an epoxy bolt, to brittle to be of use, but the new epoxy will bond well to the wood I just wonder about the epoxy to epoxy bond.
I will have to politely disagree. The epoxy to epoxy bond should be okay because I found it up with 60 grit paper. Deep scratches for good mechanical adhesion.
You can seal or no seal, sand or not sand, dowel or not dowel, it is not the root of your problem. The problem is that you can't prevent that you combine two materials with different characteristics. The epoxy doesn't move, the wood always moves. River tables are inherently a hit or miss affair, unless you produce the table in a room with the same temperature and humidity the client uses it in. Until the client decides to move it.
Having said that, i think you should consider your safety procedures while working with resin. Building river tables is a liability risk to your business, but ignoring basic safety is a huge risk to your health.
This is just simply not true. I have made several tables only this 1, with our prep, had an issue.
As far as my health is concerned, you’re correct. My safety procedures could use some work. I don’t ignore basic safety.
Why not drive in some HD coarse spax type screws and leave the head proud to anchor the epoxy to the wood?
I don’t see why that wouldn’t work. I think if you had a pour that was slightly translucent you might see them. But if it’s opaque it would totally work.
All of these resin tables and counter tops are going to crack like this over time. There's no amount of resin "soaking in" to the edges that will prevent splits.
Is this true…. Oh wise one..?
@@GoodViewWoodworks Lol... yes. I appreciate the art of resin table tops and turning, but it's not going to last (as a product). Everything has a lifespan, so no big deal, but this stuff can be quite expensive to commission, and I don't see it lasting long. People aren't very good with maintenance or proper use, and you can't control humidity swings.
It's hard enough making something out of solid wood, then adding another element that expands and contracts at a different (not at all) rate into the mix is risky. At least you're showing the problem here, which most guys are too cowardly to do.
i do not understand you say do not seal the edges but everybody says seal the edges befor moving on to the deep pour
Well not everyone says seal the edges. This is actually a controversial topic in the epoxy world 😂 one of the companies that started the river table game @blackforestwoodco also says not to seal the edges because they have had tables separate the same way I did. Then you have heavy hitters like @blacktailstudio who seal every time without issues… 🤷🏻♂️ I have yet to have an issue after stopping the sealing of the edges so I will continue that method. Hope this helps!!
How much did that table cost the customer
I’m first
😂
Thank you! I assume you sealed the edge with epoxy, so If the black pour didn't attach to the sealed sides, how come it attaches to the old resin?
Great question. It attaches to both. However the bit of epoxy used to seal the edges wasn’t enough volume to penetrate deeply into the edge causing a weak bond. Hope this makes sense.
@@GoodViewWoodworks perfect, thank you for your reply. And also, that's why you made the biscuit holes of course, so it was a silly question, really