I make small wooden appliances for hobbyist applications - tool racks, mostly. I particularly like working with salvaged and spalted wood, that would typically be burned or discarded because of the rot. Once the wood is stabilized, you can really display some of the beautiful characteristics that come to view during the process of decomposition - spalting and burls are just two of the decorative anomalies that can be highlighted. This was a very helpful video, but I wonder if you might get better results with a vacuum box to draw the epoxy deeper into the fibers?
I have doubts that this will really penetrate more than the outer layer (although that may be enough depending on the usecase). To stabilize anything with significant depth you really need a vacuum/pressure pot to force the air out, and then force the product in. Even thin oil doesnt penetrate that deep just from gravity and capilary action - and expoxy no doubt has much larger particle size, not to mention limited time to act. Unless you have some unique piece you absolutely need to restore it probably makes more sense to use good wood to begin with rather than using expensive epoxy to try remedy it. If you do use pressure to fully penetrate wood with resin though - the result is nearly indestructible and will last forever, so it certainly has some usecases for making something special.
My travel trailer has 2x2 studs. I used this on the wood rot studs, all 4 sides of each stud, completely covering the rot area and several inches beyond, and it penetrated completely. I would deduct that it did so sonce all 4 sides of the studs were treated with this, not just one side.
Great video! Thanks for posting! I was looking for a product that would penetrate the wood better than what I have. I plan to use it to harden a piece of wood to make a fretboard for a guitar. I know, I know, but the whole point of the guitar is to use nothing but recycled and repurposed wood. Sometime I don't have a piece of wood hard enough for the fretboard. Very helpful! Thx.
Did anyone else see that area as a face? The darker outer area was the hair and beard the upper lighter color was the forehead then down to the nose and mouth.
Nice. It's the only video I could find on this topic. So, once you treat with penetrating epoxy, if you sand and finish the surface, will the treated area appear similar to the rest of the slab, or is there an effect of the epoxy on the final finish? Thanks.
Restoring old historic buildings has used epoxy to preserve historic features when they could not be replaced or restored any other way. Usually, I've seen it done when the repaired wood was going to be covered up (i.e. historic internal structure) or painted over trim work.
For an art project I used epoxy thinned with acetone to harden and stabilize charcoal. It worked great. The charcoal didn’t look plastic or artificial, but it was very hard and strong. It wasn’t so strong that I’d use it to support weight in a structure, but it didn’t crumble, fall apart, or leave charcoal smudges when touched. It was fine for my art project.
I have a cabin with plywood siding with battens. There is one spot where the outer ply has rippled. I don't want to replace the section. Do you think it would be possible to drill small pilot holes in the ripples, inject this epoxy, and screw bracing across the area to smooth out the ripples? I was thinking i could use wax paper under the bracing to help prevent accidental adhesion if any epoxy seeped out. What are your thoughts having used this product?
Would this work well with charred wood? Ive got an old burned gun stock id like to save since it both looks cool, and i cant find one to replace ot with lol
I had some spalted southern live oak last month that I had to pull out all the soft wood. I didn't consider using epoxy to harden it. I'm guessing if you do go down that road the piece would need to have a gloss finish.
I have some spalted pecan with lots of soft wood could I use this? Want to make a table out of it. Can you then finish with Rubio? Or something else. Would you let it set up and do your other epoxy?
@kandiecandelaria3134 from what I gather you could use the epoxy to harden the soft wood and then sand it to 220 grit and then apply rubio. However, I'm still learning.
Once you sand the entire piece, going thru your preferred grit stages, the gloss will not be a factor and you can finish it a satin, flat, or buffed oil and wax finish.
Hey I was just wondering how strong this epoxy is, I found the perfect walking stick, and I mean literally perfect, almost looks like a wizard staff, but I believe it has some rot going on, I was doing some strength tests and ended up breaking off a solid like, 7th of it at the bottom, I have that curing right now because I decided to reconnect the pieces with e6000, but in breaking it I saw two things, 1, the wood was in fact fully dry, and 2, it was also pretty soft throughout it, it was partially in water/soggy dirt next to a pond when I found it and idk how long it was there for but I assume it's slightly rotted throughout, if I soak the thing in the penetrating epoxy would it be fairly strong? Like strong enough to be a walking stick or even take a hit?
Used this same penetrating epoxy resin to repair the studs in a travel trailer that had wood rot from several wall leaks. Once it cured, it was stronger than the new studs we put in. I also used it on the OSB gussets on my shop roof trusses to strengthen them.
There was a period recently when I had to take a break because of life circumstances but I have posted more recently. I’m about to drop one in the next hour or so
Except I wouldn’t use the minwax wood gardener because it’s not a very “hard” product. I’ve used it and it’s not very good. Here is a video where a guy reviews it. ua-cam.com/video/VHosqGYeSDA/v-deo.html
@@GoodViewWoodworks I have used it on many applications and never an issue, use to use it on rotted wood columns, I just did a rotted oak log lamp, log was so punky that I used 4 cans then a polyurethane over top made like bew
If swallowed but most of these epoxies on Amazon like table top / counter top / deep pour epoxy’s are only toxic if you swallow them, they produce almost no fumes and it’ll say clearly on the bottle if they do produce any kind of fumes but most of them you don’t NEED a respirator for, id still wear one if I have one but won’t stop a project if I don’t.
Question; I am considering using this product on some 2x8 wooden joists in my house that have taken on moisture damage and are now weak. But i am not sure how deep this stuff penetrates. Any thoughts?
Thanks for this video!
I'm using the same product, same mixing, on a vintage travel trailer.
Works good, lasts a long time!!
I used this on my pontoon deck that had punky wood. I did use some acetone to thin it a bit. Made it rock solid.
I make small wooden appliances for hobbyist applications - tool racks, mostly. I particularly like working with salvaged and spalted wood, that would typically be burned or discarded because of the rot. Once the wood is stabilized, you can really display some of the beautiful characteristics that come to view during the process of decomposition - spalting and burls are just two of the decorative anomalies that can be highlighted. This was a very helpful video, but I wonder if you might get better results with a vacuum box to draw the epoxy deeper into the fibers?
That’s totally possible however it requires a different type of epoxy. Like cactus juice
I have a lot of really pretty maple and I’ve been waiting to find this video thank you so much
Of course! Thank you for watching
I have doubts that this will really penetrate more than the outer layer (although that may be enough depending on the usecase). To stabilize anything with significant depth you really need a vacuum/pressure pot to force the air out, and then force the product in. Even thin oil doesnt penetrate that deep just from gravity and capilary action - and expoxy no doubt has much larger particle size, not to mention limited time to act.
Unless you have some unique piece you absolutely need to restore it probably makes more sense to use good wood to begin with rather than using expensive epoxy to try remedy it.
If you do use pressure to fully penetrate wood with resin though - the result is nearly indestructible and will last forever, so it certainly has some usecases for making something special.
My travel trailer has 2x2 studs. I used this on the wood rot studs, all 4 sides of each stud, completely covering the rot area and several inches beyond, and it penetrated completely. I would deduct that it did so sonce all 4 sides of the studs were treated with this, not just one side.
Can you use osmo as the finish if you sand the surface or would this be a problem for the epoxy used to solidify the rotten wood?
Thanks
Of course you can. No issues going over epoxy or wood that has been hardened with epoxy.
Would a deep pour epoxy do the same as the penetrating epoxy? Again thanks
Hi there
Does the wood have to be completely dry?
Yes, it should be in the 10%-12% MC range
How deep does it penetrate?
Część można dodac napisy po polsku
Put a couple of drops behind your ears HAHA
Great video! Thanks for posting! I was looking for a product that would penetrate the wood better than what I have. I plan to use it to harden a piece of wood to make a fretboard for a guitar. I know, I know, but the whole point of the guitar is to use nothing but recycled and repurposed wood. Sometime I don't have a piece of wood hard enough for the fretboard.
Very helpful! Thx.
What is the ratio of acetone to the epoxy mix ?
Did anyone else see that area as a face? The darker outer area was the hair and beard the upper lighter color was the forehead then down to the nose and mouth.
I seen mother Mary in my slice of 🍕 yesterday
Nice. It's the only video I could find on this topic. So, once you treat with penetrating epoxy, if you sand and finish the surface, will the treated area appear similar to the rest of the slab, or is there an effect of the epoxy on the final finish? Thanks.
Once you sand it down it won’t have much of an effect on the visual aspect.
Restoring old historic buildings has used epoxy to preserve historic features when they could not be replaced or restored any other way. Usually, I've seen it done when the repaired wood was going to be covered up (i.e. historic internal structure) or painted over trim work.
I wanna try it on my log cabin logs that have been damaged by termites
Does it have a darker discoloring on drips and the edges and in the old rotten or spalding area after sanding down the area for the cover coat?
For an art project I used epoxy thinned with acetone to harden and stabilize charcoal. It worked great. The charcoal didn’t look plastic or artificial, but it was very hard and strong. It wasn’t so strong that I’d use it to support weight in a structure, but it didn’t crumble, fall apart, or leave charcoal smudges when touched. It was fine for my art project.
That’s awesome!
I have a cabin with plywood siding with battens. There is one spot where the outer ply has rippled. I don't want to replace the section. Do you think it would be possible to drill small pilot holes in the ripples, inject this epoxy, and screw bracing across the area to smooth out the ripples? I was thinking i could use wax paper under the bracing to help prevent accidental adhesion if any epoxy seeped out. What are your thoughts having used this product?
I’m not sure. It’s a possibility but I don’t think it will get rid of the ripples. I say try it, can’t really hurt.
Would this work well with charred wood?
Ive got an old burned gun stock id like to save since it both looks cool, and i cant find one to replace ot with lol
Yes it totally would!
After you use this can you use promise deep pour epoxy over it
Yes you can!
Not available anymore from Amazon. bummer
amzn.to/3qbKDKZ
I purchased some last night. It should be here tomorrow.
I had some spalted southern live oak last month that I had to pull out all the soft wood. I didn't consider using epoxy to harden it. I'm guessing if you do go down that road the piece would need to have a gloss finish.
It wouldn’t need to have a gloss finish. You could use any satin urethane or oil finish over the surface.
@@GoodViewWoodworks that's a good idea. Using a softer finish to take the gloss off the epoxy. Great video. 👍
I have some spalted pecan with lots of soft wood could I use this? Want to make a table out of it. Can you then finish with Rubio? Or something else. Would you let it set up and do your other epoxy?
@kandiecandelaria3134 from what I gather you could use the epoxy to harden the soft wood and then sand it to 220 grit and then apply rubio. However, I'm still learning.
Once you sand the entire piece, going thru your preferred grit stages, the gloss will not be a factor and you can finish it a satin, flat, or buffed oil and wax finish.
Hey I was just wondering how strong this epoxy is, I found the perfect walking stick, and I mean literally perfect, almost looks like a wizard staff, but I believe it has some rot going on, I was doing some strength tests and ended up breaking off a solid like, 7th of it at the bottom, I have that curing right now because I decided to reconnect the pieces with e6000, but in breaking it I saw two things, 1, the wood was in fact fully dry, and 2, it was also pretty soft throughout it, it was partially in water/soggy dirt next to a pond when I found it and idk how long it was there for but I assume it's slightly rotted throughout, if I soak the thing in the penetrating epoxy would it be fairly strong? Like strong enough to be a walking stick or even take a hit?
Used this same penetrating epoxy resin to repair the studs in a travel trailer that had wood rot from several wall leaks. Once it cured, it was stronger than the new studs we put in. I also used it on the OSB gussets on my shop roof trusses to strengthen them.
After using penetrating epoxy, could I paint wood on the top of its layer? Thank you.
Did you stop making videos?
There was a period recently when I had to take a break because of life circumstances but I have posted more recently. I’m about to drop one in the next hour or so
@@GoodViewWoodworks I enjoy your videos thank you.
Lord jesus its a fire😂😂😂
Can you see the face at 2:55
Cool echo effect.
Cool video thanks for the tip
Your welcome!!!
This was super helpful!!!! Thanks
You’re welcome!! Thanks for watching and commenting!!
@@GoodViewWoodworks no problem!!!!
Yes
Bur I use minwax wood hardner works great
Minwax wood hardner dries in 30 minutes
So you would it instead of the penetrating epoxy.?
Except I wouldn’t use the minwax wood gardener because it’s not a very “hard” product. I’ve used it and it’s not very good.
Here is a video where a guy reviews it.
ua-cam.com/video/VHosqGYeSDA/v-deo.html
@@GoodViewWoodworks I have used it on many applications and never an issue, use to use it on rotted wood columns, I just did a rotted oak log lamp, log was so punky that I used 4 cans then a polyurethane over top made like bew
@@dougdegriselles9653 I guess use whatever works 😂 definitely can’t hurt.
Why aren’t you wearing a respirator, goggles, and gloves to protect yourself. Epoxy is toxic.
If swallowed but most of these epoxies on Amazon like table top / counter top / deep pour epoxy’s are only toxic if you swallow them, they produce almost no fumes and it’ll say clearly on the bottle if they do produce any kind of fumes but most of them you don’t NEED a respirator for, id still wear one if I have one but won’t stop a project if I don’t.
Your comments are toxic
@jayjake36 🤣🤣🤣
This doesn’t stink like regular thick, epoxies that you mix together. It’s not odorless, but if you’re working outside, it’s pretty much safe anyway.
Question; I am considering using this product on some 2x8 wooden joists in my house that have taken on moisture damage and are now weak. But i am not sure how deep this stuff penetrates. Any thoughts?
Other videos I've seen show drilling small holes to allow the epoxy to get deeper into the wood.
I used it to strengthen gussets on my shop trusses. I would also "sister" those joists after applying the hardener.