If you only pulled one drain plug then you drained one side of the case. If your trans came with drain plugs, there should be two. Internally it is split into two reservoirs. The fill hole at the top is the only opening between both sides.
That was a great video. Man, that looks like a lot of work. I doubt if I'm gonna do all that. My old Cub was simple. It had a dip stick, a filter and a drain plug. Easy to check and easy access. Thanks for doing this video.
Thank you for the video. The old Simplicity Hydro (circa 2000) my mother bought can barely climb a hill these days, and I had never known how to service its transmission. It won't die, so a transmission flush is definitely in its future so that a family member can use it on her property.
I think it's easier to remove the trans axle and there is a kit that includes an expansion tank that can be fitted so it's much easier to check the oil level. Also a useful tip is to remove the hubs and coat the axles with copper grease and replace the axle seals. You could live to regret not doing so if you need to replace a seal and the hub is stuck on with rust. The hubs are just held on with a C clip and washer and you will find a small key either in the axle or inside the hub. I've just spent over 2 hours with a 20 ton press at its limit and a blowtorch because some numpty fitted one of the wheel hubs onto the shaft without grease. It was rusted on solid.
Excellent work and filming the details. My Broadmoor is 7 years old now and has about 350 hours on it. Lots of rolling hills in my large yard. I think I will find my transaxle model number and see if it will be similar task to yours. I bet will be the same as yours thanks!!!
Good luck 👍. Let me know how much metal you have on your magnet. I was a bit surprised by the amount on the magnet after 60 hours but perhaps it was from break in.
@@TheLawnEngineer They call for a change I think at the first 50 hours and then 250 after that. Yes, you missed the other drain plug to get next to the filter that you could not clean.
Replacement fill caps are very reasonable.I have used wide thin gasket scraper to pop cap with good results.The transmissions last fairly well unless over loaded(heavy trailer pulling/snowblower use-spinning wheels/big hills/aerator pulling etc.Little maintenance goes long way especially if used other than 20hrs a year flat land grass cutting.(and heavy folks riding it is hard also)
Good job I'm in the process of doing mine I run mine yesterday and going down hill it took off so I'm hoping this change of tran fluid helps don't know for sure your input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks my friend
Thanks for checking in and good luck with the change. Unfortunately I have never had a fluid change improve operational issues, its really more of a preventative maintenance. Hopefully, it makes a difference for you. Please check in and let us know if it made any improvement.
While winter is upon us, think I will check out all three blade spindles and see if maybe need greasing in the bearings, or replacement. Don't suppose you have had to do this with your machine yet. What grease would you recommend for bearings in our spindles? Probably any grease used for packing wheel bearings I would imagine? Thanks!
I’ve greased using the zerk on the spindle. It’s hidden under the deck above the blades. I showed this in video end of season #1. For grease, I’m using a general hi temp grease in my grease gun.
Haven't seen it done that way. We take the weight off the back , go from underneath and pull out the unit with tires attached ect and go from there ..lots less work.
Yeah never listen to manufacturers when they say you dont need to change out fluids. We all know thats completely bull. Oil gets dirty and loses its velocity overtime, regardless if its sealed or not. When i changed mine out after 300 hours for the first time it was black and down over half of quart.
That’s a lot of work for a simple task. Shame on these engineers,. My John Deere is a residential model with sealed lifetime motors. Sucks because we all know those are built to fail. Makes me wish I would of bought a commercial used unit and those have easy access drains and fill ports for monthly/quarterly hydro oil changes
Definitely planned obsolescence. We don't want to pay the price for a model that will last for 20+ years so they just make us buy several over 20 years.
there are several videos on youtube that show how to take the tranny out remove the breather and fill plug and drain the oil upside down and then unbolt the bottom plate upside down and then drill and tap the 2 cast bung hole with an 8mm 1.25 tap and bolt with a sealed washer or use teflon tape. tuff torq suggest oil change every 250 hours. ua-cam.com/video/1ikGq2k4iJI/v-deo.html a few other videos, but this is funny and more thorough. 🙂
How much of the two quarts did it take to refill the transmission? I know some are saying that single drain plug won't drain the entire unit... but replacing at least some of the oil is better than none. I just wonder if it held two quarts or something less. Thanks for the video!
Not according to the tuff torq service manual. Refill transmission case with oil through same port to near top of the case. Tuff Torq® recommends refilling transmission with Tuff Torq® hydrostatic oil, available from our service and aftermarket department.
That was a great video! I’ve been struggling with my tractor for a while. I was able to fix mine with your help! Thanks again.
Glad it helped!
If you only pulled one drain plug then you drained one side of the case. If your trans came with drain plugs, there should be two. Internally it is split into two reservoirs. The fill hole at the top is the only opening between both sides.
Thanks for adding this, hopefully others read this so they don’t repeat my mistake.
That was a great video. Man, that looks like a lot of work. I doubt if I'm gonna do all that. My old Cub was simple. It had a dip stick, a filter and a drain plug. Easy to check and easy access. Thanks for doing this video.
Yes, I like the idea of having new oil in there, but not sure it was worth the effort.
Thank you for the video. The old Simplicity Hydro (circa 2000) my mother bought can barely climb a hill these days, and I had never known how to service its transmission. It won't die, so a transmission flush is definitely in its future so that a family member can use it on her property.
You're welcome, hopefully new fluid will put some pep back in the hydro's step.
Turned out its drive belt was very loose. Changing it is quite a job.
@@rodcros I’m glad you found the problem, and yes those belts are not easy to replace.
I think it's easier to remove the trans axle and there is a kit that includes an expansion tank that can be fitted so it's much easier to check the oil level. Also a useful tip is to remove the hubs and coat the axles with copper grease and replace the axle seals. You could live to regret not doing so if you need to replace a seal and the hub is stuck on with rust. The hubs are just held on with a C clip and washer and you will find a small key either in the axle or inside the hub. I've just spent over 2 hours with a 20 ton press at its limit and a blowtorch because some numpty fitted one of the wheel hubs onto the shaft without grease. It was rusted on solid.
Great tips, the expansion tank kit sounds like a great addition.
You know the part number for that expansion tank kit. I found an expansion tank for the k46 but nothing for installation.
Excellent work and filming the details. My Broadmoor is 7 years old now and has about 350 hours on it. Lots of rolling hills in my large yard. I think I will find my transaxle model number and see if it will be similar task to yours. I bet will be the same as yours thanks!!!
Good luck 👍. Let me know how much metal you have on your magnet. I was a bit surprised by the amount on the magnet after 60 hours but perhaps it was from break in.
@@TheLawnEngineer ua-cam.com/video/1ikGq2k4iJI/v-deo.html
The fluid that came out was clear as day! I just bought a used Broadmoor 20hp vanguard and I don't think it was ever changed and it has 1276H on it.
Yes, it was very early to change. My main goal was making the video =).
@@TheLawnEngineer They call for a change I think at the first 50 hours and then 250 after that. Yes, you missed the other drain plug to get next to the filter that you could not clean.
Replacement fill caps are very reasonable.I have used wide thin gasket scraper to pop cap with good results.The transmissions last fairly well unless over loaded(heavy trailer pulling/snowblower use-spinning wheels/big hills/aerator pulling etc.Little maintenance goes long way especially if used other than 20hrs a year flat land grass cutting.(and heavy folks riding it is hard also)
Great additions, thanks for sharing.
Excellent video thanks. Do it again in 7 years
You're welcome. Yes, maybe in 7 years I'll feel it is time to change again =)
Good job I'm in the process of doing mine I run mine yesterday and going down hill it took off so I'm hoping this change of tran fluid helps don't know for sure your input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks my friend
Thanks for checking in and good luck with the change. Unfortunately I have never had a fluid change improve operational issues, its really more of a preventative maintenance.
Hopefully, it makes a difference for you. Please check in and let us know if it made any improvement.
thank you for the video
You’re welcome.
While winter is upon us, think I will check out all three blade spindles and see if maybe need greasing in the bearings, or replacement. Don't suppose you have had to do this with your machine yet. What grease would you recommend for bearings in our spindles? Probably any grease used for packing wheel bearings I would imagine? Thanks!
I’ve greased using the zerk on the spindle. It’s hidden under the deck above the blades. I showed this in video end of season #1. For grease, I’m using a general hi temp grease in my grease gun.
Haven't seen it done that way.
We take the weight off the back , go from underneath and pull out the unit with tires attached ect and go from there ..lots less work.
I’ll try that next time. I did it from the top so I could check the level after running for a bit per the procedure…but that doesn’t seem necessary.
Yeah never listen to manufacturers when they say you dont need to change out fluids. We all know thats completely bull. Oil gets dirty and loses its velocity overtime, regardless if its sealed or not. When i changed mine out after 300 hours for the first time it was black and down over half of quart.
Absolutely, thanks for sharing the condition of your oil after 300 hours. We all benefit from more information.
That’s a lot of work for a simple task. Shame on these engineers,. My John Deere is a residential model with sealed lifetime motors. Sucks because we all know those are built to fail. Makes me wish I would of bought a commercial used unit and those have easy access drains and fill ports for monthly/quarterly hydro oil changes
Definitely planned obsolescence. We don't want to pay the price for a model that will last for 20+ years so they just make us buy several over 20 years.
there are several videos on youtube that show how to take the tranny out remove the breather and fill plug and drain the oil upside down and then unbolt the bottom plate upside down and then drill and tap the 2 cast bung hole with an 8mm 1.25 tap and bolt with a sealed washer or use teflon tape. tuff torq suggest oil change every 250 hours. ua-cam.com/video/1ikGq2k4iJI/v-deo.html a few other videos, but this is funny and more thorough. 🙂
How much of the two quarts did it take to refill the transmission? I know some are saying that single drain plug won't drain the entire unit... but replacing at least some of the oil is better than none.
I just wonder if it held two quarts or something less.
Thanks for the video!
If I remember correctly, it was just shy of 2 quarts.
@@TheLawnEngineer it's interesting there was just the one drain plug... perhaps Tuff Torq figured changing out most of the oil would be sufficient.
Thanks!
You’re welcome
Thank you!!!!!
You're welcome!
The gear need to be refilled via the two drain holes (from underneath)
Not according to the tuff torq service manual.
Refill transmission case with oil through same port to near top of the case. Tuff Torq® recommends refilling transmission with Tuff Torq® hydrostatic oil, available from our service and aftermarket department.