When we put in a large ductless system, the biggest thing we had to learn was to just leave it alone. It has plenty of power to keep up with even the hottest days when you let it do its thing. What it doesn't do very well is rapidly shifting the temp down 15 or 20 degrees. It is sort of like trying to fill a pool with a garden hose. It'll get there but it takes a while. And if you turn the temp way down to rush the process, you'll eventually find yourself freezing to death if you forget to set it back up. You will be much more comfortable if you just set it and forget it, or make only small temperature changes throughout the day.
this makes a lot of sense.. been struggling with how to operate my split system since i had it installed a few months ago.. i came to the conclusion on my own that the AUTO setting was the way to go... good video!!
@@oliviawoodworth9812 I don't know not an expert by far but my cooper and hunter system is happiest on auto for both heat and cooling.. works practically flawlessly you don't even know they are there!
@@oliviawoodworth9812 Was also told by installers to NEVER use Auto Mode for multi-head system, because one unit could go into a completely different mode, when all heads need to be in the same mode (but can be set at different temperatures).
Mini split units that offer heating as well are not really the best heaters, so when your doing your heat load calculations for your rooms, you need to consider the heating side as well and not just the cooling. This is why you will often see an oversized unit for cooling capacity than typically what’s needed because the installer is also trying to meet the room’s heating requirements as well.
The mini split we got has a programmed auto temp and will not let you adjust the temp in this setting. Also if its in cool and the temp is set to 70 it never stops just keeos blowing cold air and the inside temp gets down in the 60s and dosent shut off.
Excellent video Sir. The other thing I see with friends who have installed them is improper routing of their refrigerant tube run which creates an oil trap as they do not know. That will cause a premature failure. I am called after the fact
Set it to Heat or Cool put the fan on Auto and let it run 24/7 at one temperature!! You can always go up or down a few degrees but it needs to run 24/7!! You can turn it off in spring or fall if you don't need any heating or cooling.
Thank you Been running dehumidifier setting and never seeing any water being extracted Set fan to auto in dehumidifier mode and bang started extracting water Thanks
The Mr Cool has the"dry" setting which I have used before in the room closest to the shower room, and in the dinning room when cooking a lot . Not sure if every brand has this option . In this setting it doesn't take long to pull the moisture out of the air . Thanks for the great help and videos .
I've had my Mitsubishi mini split for two years. There is a large system with iSee in the living room, all other rooms (2 bedrooms and kitchen) have smaller units. When sitting in the living room my feet are always cold, it seems no matter what the heat/fans are set at doesn't reach my feet. I wish I would have gotten the floor model for the living room, at least it would have given heat towards the floor. I've read the instructions many times, but I still struggle with the system keeping me comfortable. I've just set it to Auto as many say to do, also set the temperature - is that all I need to do? Will this keep the room comfortable by my feet and when I stand up? This system was set up by a "gold" HVAC Mitsubishi dealer. Thanks for the video.
I can't get a set temperature, I'll set it to 70 degrees in auto, cool, or comfy and it just keep blowing cold air down into the lows 60s, only way to stop that is to shut it off.. what's up with that as I read this is a common problem
Ok, first time using my Mitsubishi. I set it to heat-auto and for the first hour or so it seemed fine. I want the room set to 70, it brought it up to 68. Then it only spit out a little warm air occasionally. I left for a few hours - at my return it had dropped to 66, no heat was coming out. Is it possible it doesn't really know what the temperature in the room is? I also tried shutting off the energy saving sensor as well as the economy mode.
Am having the EXACT same issue. I will try my fans on AUTO. But additionally my 2 zone system (MITS HH) thinks its a single zone system lol. If one zone shuts down the other room zone follows suite. 😡😡😡
@@daved9532 I finally figured out how to speak to my mini-split - and I love it!! Actually, it is Fujitsu (not a Mitsubishi) - but they all seem to have similar traits, it appears - they march to their own drummer, for sure. I was expecting: turn up the temperature on the remote, it turns on until it gets to temperature. Nope. :-) Actually, patience is the key. Very patient. After trying 'a million' things, I finally shut off the eco mode, auto fan, sensor mode, and everything else - only turned on the 'heat' mode and put the fan on the highest setting. I then set the heat temperature to 74 (I wanted the room to be 70 - but I don't have all year to wait). Then I selected the 'powerful' fan setting (not necessary, but it tends to get to what you want a bit faster; the powerful setting does not stay on forever - just for a while; it opens the flap wide open for a while, that's all). Then you wait. Do not expect this to be achieved in a few hours - it won't happen. And don't readjust the settings. Touching the settings (i.e., getting impatient) ticks this thing off and you'll have to wait even longer to achieve your results - which probably won't happen anyway. It sounds crazy, but it took almost 24 hours to get the house to 70 degrees, and I had a space heater set to 68 to even out the heat when this thing decides it wants to take a nap. It is now in the teens outside, but my house stays at a steady 68-71 degrees - with the space heater (it's a vented propane heater) set to 66 (that rarely turns on, except during the coldest temps at night) and the mini-split set to 74. I do not touch either of them - ever. Making adjustments just seems to start the process all over again. The house is extremely comfortable, and my electric bill is so much better than when I used the electric heat. I still think the mini-split does not have a good thermostat - but, since I am very happy how comfortable the house is, I don't really care anymore. I was talking to a friend who is familiar with electronic stuff and he explained that mini splits really do not work like other heating systems - so I have accepted that it just doesn't do things as quickly as most heating systems - but instead is slow, but very steady. And since I am saving quite a bit not using any electric baseboard heat anymore, I'm ok with the tradeoff.
My wife wants the house AS COLD AS POSSIBLE. (This sounds like an exageration or a joke, but it is not I assure you.) So in our house it is cranked down to the lowest possible temperature pretty much all the time... Even in the winter. It gets really cold. I am very cold. Always very cold. We live in Oregon so in the winter it gets so cold. Is this going to hurt our system? I just wonder because I just had to spend $20k replacing a (admitedly badly designed, badly installed) system with a new one with about 3x the capacity after only about 8 years of running. I feel like our use case is potentially not great for the lifespan of these things...
I would love to have a user's or owner's manual the mini split was installed three months before I moved in and they didn't leave me an owner's manual I spent all winter trying to figure out the remote control
Ok, this topic really applies to ME. I am in my second winter with a 30K BTU Mitsu system for my raised ranch. The air handlers on the wall are the flagship, Hyper Heat. The ODU is standard. Anyway, I run the fan in AUTO in the summer for AC, does just fine. Since this is my primary heat source, running the fan on auto, not so much! The fan speed is too conservative (CFM TOO LOW) and the temp in my home will drop by nearly 3 degrees and that is on a 30 degree day with solar gain in the home! So, I run all 3 units on 3rd speed which is considered high. At this fixed speed, I find the CFM output is a little different between the 6, 9, 15 k BTU units, but that works best at maintaining my temp settings. I may only loose 1.5 degrees during the overnight if outside temp is in the teens. Just my own experiences so far. Perhaps if I run AUTO fan during heating, I should push the remote temperature 3 or 4 degrees higher then usual to force the fan to move more air? Would be good to know. I know that once the set temp is reached and the handlers are satisfied, the blowers will stop completely, something some HVAC guys did not know!
Your discussion about variable speed inverters leads me to a great question. Comparing a 12K to a 9K BTU mini split… if both are Pioneer Diamonte with variable speed inverters… can the 12K run at about the same cost as the 9K??? My thinking is the variable speed inverter may allow the larger unit to run close to the energy consumption of the smaller unit. That is the exact question I need to answer before I buy a mini split heat pump system, which I will do very soon! I'm planning to put UNIT #1 in LR/DR; UNIT #2 in BR/Bath. I''m not sure if I should get two 12K units, or a 12K and a 9K. The BR/bath area is 16 X13 with standard ceiling so a small unit can heat and cool that space easily. However, the difference in price for the 12K and 9K at Home Depot is currently only about $30!! Should I go ahead and get two 12Ks or will the 12K energy consumption cost considerable more than the 9K for the small bedroom/bath area? An answer here would be greatly appreciated. Or a video on this subject would probably get many clicks.
Energy consumption, probably isn't that significant between the two. However, my question would be, which is properly sized for the space you're putting it in? Have you had a load calculation performed?
@@NewHVACGuide I have not had a professional do a load calculation. I just plugged in my home size into an online calculator. No heat loss test done, and I know the heat loss in my old home is very significant.
We connsider the installation of air-to-air heat pumps in our home. Mitsubishi Hyper Heating (MFZ-KW?) with floor mounted consoles seems to be a good option. We want to install 2 multisplit units connected to 2 indoor consoles each, for reasons of redunancy, we would place one indoor unit of each heatpump in our living room. We would like to know if it is possible to control 2 indoor units that are connected to a different heatpump with one and the same wall mounted controller. If possible, we would prefer it over using a handheld remote control. Please let us know if (and how) this is possible and what the implied cost might be. We thank you for your time and expert advice! Willy Vd Wyngaert
Hello! I finally had a mini-split (Daikin) installed this winter and don't really know the best/most cost effective way to run it. I basically only want to use in really cold winter and really hot summer. I heard you should not turn it off, so what is the best method to use when needed, but not waste $$ when not needed. (Did not really come with a manual, just one big sheet) Thanks so much from Maryland USA!
Set it to Auto on the remote and it keeps that temp it will change from Cool or Heat depending on temp. Mine also has a Eco button on it which means that the once it reaches temp it shuts off the unit . Then it will fire up and check the temp every now and then. I keep mine on 67 F during the summer but I use this to cool my whole house instead of using my whole house heat pump. It takes out much more water out of the air and these new Heat pumps are so expensive I had to replace my whole house heating system two years ago and it was 18,500 buck. Thats why I bought this it cools my living room/Kitchen and Bedroom just fine and my whole house is always about 75 degrees even when its 100 outside. Also my power bill is about 60 bucks cheaper each month. I bought mine online it was a scratch and dent got it for a steal and it has worked wonderful. If it lasts 3 years I will be happy I can always replace it as long as I dont have to replace my 5 ton unit again.
Installers said my multi head system should NEVER be set on Auto mode. My understanding (researching, experimenting & comparing my energy usage) is these are "set & forget" because they have to build up pressure (2-3 days) to operate effectively. Summer, I leave all units on 24/7, but set at higher temp. Open windows at night using whole house window fan to pull in cold night air, then the heat pump units don't have to do much and I'm comfortable day (heat pumps set cooler/windows closed), & night (heat pumps set higher/ windows open). I'm trying to figure out how to set things for winter....I like a freezing bedroom at night, but warm in day. If I turn off 1 head unit, my bill is very high for 3 days when I turn it on again until the pressure builds up again (?). The bill stays lower if I don't turn them off, but turn the temperature higher/lower instead.
What about when you have multiple heads/zones on your ductless mini split system each with their own thermostat. Wouldn’t that cause issues when in auto mode (one may want to cool while the other heat leading to error and shut down)?
Most mini split zoned systems need all the indoor units to be in the same mode or the outdoor unit will not operate. The only exception I’m aware of is systems with “heat recovery“. There may be some VRV or VRF systems as well. But again, this would be very unique and most systems do not allow.
Exactly right, NEVER use Auto mode with multi head units for this reason. My understanding (researching, experimenting & comparing my energy usage) is these are"set & forget" because they have to build up pressure (2-3 days) to operate effectively. Summer, I leave all units on 24/7, but set at higher temp. Open windows at night using whole house window fan to pull in cold night air, then the heat pump units don't have to do much and I'm comfortable day (heat pumps set cooler/windows closed), & night (heat pumps set higher/ windows open). I'm trying to figure out how to set things for winter....I like a freezing bedroom at night, but warm in day. If I turn off 1 head unit, my bill is very high for 3 days when I turn it on again until the pressure builds up again (?). The bill stays lower if I don't turn them off, but turn the temperature higher/lower instead.
Joshua Griffin, I am looking into mini splits. My two bedrooms are 150 sq. ft. and 165 sq. ft.. I find a lot more manufacturers who only make 9000 btu units than 6000 btu. Plus, I can get better deals with dual 9000 btu systems than dual 6000 btu systems. Would a dual 9000 btu system ramp down enough in auto mode to keep both bedrooms comfortable? Should I put out the extra money to get the dual 6000 btu system? Your advice is appreciated.
I’d have a proper load calculation performed and then check the specs on the ductless units to see what they ramp down to. It’s good that you’re being aware of this issue. Many put them in and have issues down the road
Yeah auto is best. Except... One of the ones I put in my son's house doesn't throw the heat through the whole kitchen/dining room unless I set the fan on fast. It still cycles, only goes fast when actually heating. On auto it has a tendency to be satisfied when just the area in the immediate vicinity of the unit is up to setpoint. Then it short-cycles. Probably would be wiser to use an aux fan for wall mount motor longevity. But this is way easier. 😋 These high wall mounts are great for cooling, but for heating it's better to introduce the hot air at floor level.
What brand? I have a Fujitsu and found i have to do a temp offset for heating because of the thermostat location. Sometimes the offset is 10 degrees above desired temp depending on outdoor temp.
@@chrisE815 The Pioneers do a pretty good job of maintaining setpoint. I did notice when it's really cold out they seem to have some kind of anticipation where they heat a little higher than the setpoint, but that's better than being too cold. It has an "I feel" option where it references the temp of the remote, and that's pretty neat to keep the environment around the remote at setpoint, but it times out after a couple hours so I can't just mount the remote across the room and use that full time as the thermostat.
@@elgringoec my fujitsu is so old school. Wish I paid more attention when i was buying. I would have bought a wifi connected unit and a head with a remote thermostat.
@@chrisE815 I think you got a good unit. Those accessories may be available. Pioneer has optional thermostats (I forgot about those) and WiFi interfaces. I bought two WiFi boards for my son's units, he likes that kind of silliness, I've pretty much outgrown it, but they're still in the box, haven't tried them yet. I wanted to be sure the units worked fine without them first before installing them, and we've been so busy that the WiFi control hasn't come up. I learned a long time ago to set and forget, I think my kids are finally coming around to that realization after loving the fact that they could diddle around with their own thermostats. (They were not allowed to touch the thermostats when growing up, only I could make changes, anyone else would request I make them which rarely happened)
I have daikin aroura 36k BTU 2 units outside and six indoor units. Now in winter time I use for heat my main source. I been running in in heat mode and fan on auto. Should I use auto mode for temp also
I had the same problem myself. Because a mini split draws air from up by the ceiling and warm air rises, it keeps recycling the same warm air, leaving it cold down by the floor. I solved the problem by putting a small fan that can tilt straight up on the floor off to the side of the unit so it would push the cold air up to the ceiling and into the unit. Works fine.
I added an 8000 btu window unit to my master bedroom because my home units can’t keep up in the summer. I have a 3500 sq ft home with 7 tons of cooling. A closet would eat up 1000 btu.
@@hkgonra That's got me thinking Florida weather. I suppose if you don't have cold winters then 65F might feel comfortable, but for me, that would be unpleasantly cool any time of year. My personal preferred temperature and my wife's as well is around 75F year round. We burn far more energy heating in the winter than we do cooling in the summer. But I take other measures to reduce the load on cooling in the peak summer heat.
@@bobboscarato1313 I remember 25 years ago when I was the helper for a much older seasoned HVAC guy. The average house we worked on was built in the 70’s. He would first ask what temp do you want to keep your house. Then he would look at the age of the house (how insulated is it) as well as how many kids and dogs they have. A house from the 70’s with a couple kids and or dogs were going to get about 400sq ft per ton of cooling. He said the quickest way to ruin your reputation is to have a customer house that they want at 70 to be 75 on a 100 degree day. They will never call you back and make sure to run your name in the ground to anyone who listens.
Hi, I Have a 12K BTU Unit, Its Rated For Upto A 750CuFt Area. I Am Installing in In a Living Room of about 500CuFt Area. I Want To Extend it to Another Room Of About 150CuFt. Can I Do That? What Do I Need To Do? Just Get Another Indoor Unit? 🤔🤔 Thanks.
sounds like some simple good advice that a responsible and knowledgeable tech should told the customer (paying them money). For that piece of important information, every homeowner shouldn’t have to read the manual. I wish my tech would’ve emphasized this: He didn’t mention anything of the sort. But yea seriously go read the damn manual
Griff, I'm building a 1000 sq ft cabin with a 500 sq ft loft. My hvac man installs Gree & Mitzubisi mini-splits. Which brand would you choose for this cabin? Thank you, Cal
i am sorry, but fan speed has NO bearing on output. yes, higher fan settings ALLOW more heat to be transfferd but its not the reason it uses more power. it will still want to hold the setpoint because that is the only thing it cares about and higher fan speeds allow the system to get to it faster. but once its there the power reduces even if the fan stays high. just advising blindly to set it auto is not good advice. setting it to forced low speeds also helps comfort and take away big temperature swings even if it reduces power output. the best advice is the one is the one you have not given: its to KEEP the system on so the room gets to temp and stays there. holding a temp is MUCH more efficient than turning it off and on constantly.
Hello. I’m not sure what you’re talking about. I didn’t say anything about power consumption. I was pointing out the humidity removal is lower if the system is set on high versus auto
@@NewHVACGuide i am talking about how you think the system controls itself. and yes, high fan speeds dont remove meaningful amounts of water, that is what the dehumidify mode is for. that forces the fan even lower than normal and allows the evaporator to get down to 2~3 degrees above freezing. the outdoor unit does not care that you set the indoor unit to dry or its fan to low. it does not know you did that. it only wants to keep the evaporation temp on the low side to 1~3 degrees above freezing. nothing more or less.
That may be true for some ductless systems, but most of them are using communicating, inverter technology. I encourage you to read the instructions for a high end Daikin or Mitsubishi.
I need some help with this problem. Mini split manuals say the minimum height of the inside unit is 98.5" from the bottom of the unit to the floor. The instructions say the full cooling effect won't be reached if placed lower than 98.5". My ceiling height is less than what they say is required. I am trying to think about the reason for a reduction in the cooling effect. I noticed they did not use the word performance or mention a reduced heating effect. I doubt the coolant knows how high the indoor unit is, so the only thing I can think of is the fact that hot air rises, and whoever wrote the height requirement might have been thinking about a layer of hot air floating above the unit that would cause a perceived loss of cooling effect. The instruction says to leave 6" between the top of the unit and the ceiling for, I presume, door clearance. It seems to me that regardless of the floor-to-unit height if the unit is as tight to the ceiling as required, there would be no reduction in the cooling effect. Then again, maybe there is something I don't understand about coolant flow requirements in mini split air conditioners. What do you think?
Clearances are usually minimums. A minimum for airflow or servicing. Height requirements have more to do with comfort. Most systems are designed with the algorithms understanding that they will be mounted high to blow low. Heat rises and so comfort in the space takes that into account. Mounting it at a different height, may require you to set the temperature higher or lower than typical to get the desired comfort
I am wondering, which setting on these units are more finaically cheaper, should you leave it on automatic or on the coolest setting. I have a 18,000 BTU and I am only cooling one small bedroom, on the coolest setting it gets to cold and I have to turn it off, then back on. I set it at 30 and I live in Europe so the temp. setting may be different than in America where I am from. If I have it on Automatic it doesn't seem to get cool enough, this is also a new unit. I just need to know which setting is the most economic way, and which is beter, to trun it off when it gets to cold then back on when it gets to warm, the unit never shuts off automatically. 🙃🙃🙃
Too many folks in society do not read instruction, period. I know people who have spent $75,000 on a brand new vehicle and simply refuse to read the owners manual. I have to laugh at those who won't because they will never know the capabilities and functions of their new vehicle vs. what they think they knew about their previous vehicle. Same goes with most of everything else. They'll purchase something from Home Depot or an appliance of some kind and never bother to read the instructions or the manual. Then, when something isn't going just right, they will screw with it, possibly damaging it way before referencing the book. Some people are just well off in buying the low end model if they will not read about the functions, features of their new purchases. It's amazing to observe those who paint themselves into a corner only because they never bothered to read and learn to operate the things they acquire. Reminds me of several politicians pushing their ideas before looking into the value in the matter.
How true. I would never buy a super deluxe bells and whistles car because I think all those extras kill the life of the basic function of the thing you're buying way before its time. I'll read the manual but I'm a hard sell on all the new tech that makes the manual 5"thick so you can now only get it (the manual) on the internet.
Hey guys, i have a fugitsu mini split 5 zones unit. Can I have it set on auto on one head and dry mode on another head at the same time without damaging?
I did a video recently on this exact topic that you should check out. Most multi zone systems cannot be in different modes and operate properly. Although this would not necessarily create damage to the system, it will usually just not operate at all, if the systems are in different modes.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
When we put in a large ductless system, the biggest thing we had to learn was to just leave it alone. It has plenty of power to keep up with even the hottest days when you let it do its thing. What it doesn't do very well is rapidly shifting the temp down 15 or 20 degrees. It is sort of like trying to fill a pool with a garden hose. It'll get there but it takes a while. And if you turn the temp way down to rush the process, you'll eventually find yourself freezing to death if you forget to set it back up. You will be much more comfortable if you just set it and forget it, or make only small temperature changes throughout the day.
this makes a lot of sense.. been struggling with how to operate my split system since i had it installed a few months ago.. i came to the conclusion on my own that the AUTO setting was the way to go... good video!!
my mini split manual says auto is only for single units not multi and we have multi and our electric bill has gone up so much
@@oliviawoodworth9812 I don't know not an expert by far but my cooper and hunter system is happiest on auto for both heat and cooling.. works practically flawlessly you don't even know they are there!
@@oliviawoodworth9812
Was also told by installers to NEVER use Auto Mode for multi-head system, because one unit could go into a completely different mode, when all heads need to be in the same mode (but can be set at different temperatures).
Mini split units that offer heating as well are not really the best heaters, so when your doing your heat load calculations for your rooms, you need to consider the heating side as well and not just the cooling. This is why you will often see an oversized unit for cooling capacity than typically what’s needed because the installer is also trying to meet the room’s heating requirements as well.
The mini split we got has a programmed auto temp and will not let you adjust the temp in this setting. Also if its in cool and the temp is set to 70 it never stops just keeos blowing cold air and the inside temp gets down in the 60s and dosent shut off.
Excellent video Sir. The other thing I see with friends who have installed them is improper routing of their refrigerant tube run which creates an oil trap as they do not know. That will cause a premature failure. I am called after the fact
Set it to Heat or Cool put the fan on Auto and let it run 24/7 at one temperature!! You can always go up or down a few degrees but it needs to run 24/7!! You can turn it off in spring or fall if you don't need any heating or cooling.
Thank you
Been running dehumidifier setting and never seeing any water being extracted
Set fan to auto in dehumidifier mode and bang started extracting water
Thanks
The Mr Cool has the"dry" setting which I have used before in the room closest to the shower room, and in the dinning room when cooking a lot . Not sure if every brand has this option . In this setting it doesn't take long to pull the moisture out of the air . Thanks for the great help and videos .
are you saying a dry mode makes the air dry?
@@SupremeRuleroftheWorld It acts as a dehumidifer.
My pioneers have that mode.
How often should this Dry feature be used?
Thank you so much for your advice! My unit is now on Auto.
You’re welcome!
I've had my Mitsubishi mini split for two years. There is a large system with iSee in the living room, all other rooms (2 bedrooms and kitchen) have smaller units. When sitting in the living room my feet are always cold, it seems no matter what the heat/fans are set at doesn't reach my feet. I wish I would have gotten the floor model for the living room, at least it would have given heat towards the floor. I've read the instructions many times, but I still struggle with the system keeping me comfortable. I've just set it to Auto as many say to do, also set the temperature - is that all I need to do? Will this keep the room comfortable by my feet and when I stand up? This system was set up by a "gold" HVAC Mitsubishi dealer. Thanks for the video.
This guy is a straight shooter!
Good video. I changed the settings and it's working a lot better.
I can't get a set temperature, I'll set it to 70 degrees in auto, cool, or comfy and it just keep blowing cold air down into the lows 60s, only way to stop that is to shut it off.. what's up with that as I read this is a common problem
Read the instructions! Great advise! Watching UA-cam videos like this one helps, too. Thank you
Ok, first time using my Mitsubishi. I set it to heat-auto and for the first hour or so it seemed fine. I want the room set to 70, it brought it up to 68. Then it only spit out a little warm air occasionally. I left for a few hours - at my return it had dropped to 66, no heat was coming out. Is it possible it doesn't really know what the temperature in the room is? I also tried shutting off the energy saving sensor as well as the economy mode.
Am having the EXACT same issue. I will try my fans on AUTO. But additionally my 2 zone system (MITS HH) thinks its a single zone system lol. If one zone shuts down the other room zone follows suite. 😡😡😡
@@daved9532 I finally figured out how to speak to my mini-split - and I love it!! Actually, it is Fujitsu (not a Mitsubishi) - but they all seem to have similar traits, it appears - they march to their own drummer, for sure. I was expecting: turn up the temperature on the remote, it turns on until it gets to temperature. Nope. :-) Actually, patience is the key. Very patient. After trying 'a million' things, I finally shut off the eco mode, auto fan, sensor mode, and everything else - only turned on the 'heat' mode and put the fan on the highest setting. I then set the heat temperature to 74 (I wanted the room to be 70 - but I don't have all year to wait). Then I selected the 'powerful' fan setting (not necessary, but it tends to get to what you want a bit faster; the powerful setting does not stay on forever - just for a while; it opens the flap wide open for a while, that's all). Then you wait. Do not expect this to be achieved in a few hours - it won't happen. And don't readjust the settings. Touching the settings (i.e., getting impatient) ticks this thing off and you'll have to wait even longer to achieve your results - which probably won't happen anyway. It sounds crazy, but it took almost 24 hours to get the house to 70 degrees, and I had a space heater set to 68 to even out the heat when this thing decides it wants to take a nap. It is now in the teens outside, but my house stays at a steady 68-71 degrees - with the space heater (it's a vented propane heater) set to 66 (that rarely turns on, except during the coldest temps at night) and the mini-split set to 74. I do not touch either of them - ever. Making adjustments just seems to start the process all over again. The house is extremely comfortable, and my electric bill is so much better than when I used the electric heat. I still think the mini-split does not have a good thermostat - but, since I am very happy how comfortable the house is, I don't really care anymore. I was talking to a friend who is familiar with electronic stuff and he explained that mini splits really do not work like other heating systems - so I have accepted that it just doesn't do things as quickly as most heating systems - but instead is slow, but very steady. And since I am saving quite a bit not using any electric baseboard heat anymore, I'm ok with the tradeoff.
@ you have told me more than any expert teckie overpaid HVAC technician ever. TY x a million. I don’t feel so overwhelmed now
@@daved9532 You're welcome. 😊
My wife wants the house AS COLD AS POSSIBLE. (This sounds like an exageration or a joke, but it is not I assure you.) So in our house it is cranked down to the lowest possible temperature pretty much all the time... Even in the winter. It gets really cold. I am very cold. Always very cold. We live in Oregon so in the winter it gets so cold.
Is this going to hurt our system? I just wonder because I just had to spend $20k replacing a (admitedly badly designed, badly installed) system with a new one with about 3x the capacity after only about 8 years of running. I feel like our use case is potentially not great for the lifespan of these things...
Have you made a video about how to do a heat load calculation? Or is that beyond the capabilities of a home owner?
It's easy enough, simple arithmetic. It's outlined in one of those manuals, J or H, I forget exactly, but should be discoverable online somewhere.
My installer told me to NEVER set it in auto. Why?
I would love to have a user's or owner's manual the mini split was installed three months before I moved in and they didn't leave me an owner's manual I spent all winter trying to figure out the remote control
Are you a subscriber to newhvacguide.com?
Ok, this topic really applies to ME. I am in my second winter with a 30K BTU Mitsu system for my raised ranch. The air handlers on the wall are the flagship, Hyper Heat. The ODU is standard. Anyway, I run the fan in AUTO in the summer for AC, does just fine.
Since this is my primary heat source, running the fan on auto, not so much! The fan speed is too conservative (CFM TOO LOW) and the temp in my home will drop by nearly 3 degrees and that is on a 30 degree day with solar gain in the home!
So, I run all 3 units on 3rd speed which is considered high. At this fixed speed, I find the CFM output is a little different between the 6, 9, 15 k BTU units, but that works best at maintaining my temp settings.
I may only loose 1.5 degrees during the overnight if outside temp is in the teens. Just my own experiences so far. Perhaps if I run AUTO fan during heating, I should push the remote temperature 3 or 4 degrees higher then usual to force the fan to move more air? Would be good to know.
I know that once the set temp is reached and the handlers are satisfied, the blowers will stop completely, something some HVAC guys did not know!
So Auto Fan, correct?
Your discussion about variable speed inverters leads me to a great question. Comparing a 12K to a 9K BTU mini split… if both are Pioneer Diamonte with variable speed inverters… can the 12K run at about the same cost as the 9K??? My thinking is the variable speed inverter may allow the larger unit to run close to the energy consumption of the smaller unit.
That is the exact question I need to answer before I buy a mini split heat pump system, which I will do very soon! I'm planning to put UNIT #1 in LR/DR; UNIT #2 in BR/Bath.
I''m not sure if I should get two 12K units, or a 12K and a 9K. The BR/bath area is 16 X13 with standard ceiling so a small unit can heat and cool that space easily.
However, the difference in price for the 12K and 9K at Home Depot is currently only about $30!! Should I go ahead and get two 12Ks or will the 12K energy consumption cost considerable more than the 9K for the small bedroom/bath area?
An answer here would be greatly appreciated. Or a video on this subject would probably get many clicks.
Energy consumption, probably isn't that significant between the two. However, my question would be, which is properly sized for the space you're putting it in? Have you had a load calculation performed?
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@@NewHVACGuide I have not had a professional do a load calculation. I just plugged in my home size into an online calculator. No heat loss test done, and I know the heat loss in my old home is very significant.
Can the lead line be to long? 26 to 30 ft
We connsider the installation of air-to-air heat pumps in our home. Mitsubishi Hyper Heating (MFZ-KW?) with floor mounted consoles seems to be a good option. We want to install 2 multisplit units connected to 2 indoor consoles each, for reasons of redunancy, we would place one indoor unit of each heatpump in our living room. We would like to know if it is possible to control 2 indoor units that are connected to a different heatpump with one and the same wall mounted controller. If possible, we would prefer it over using a handheld remote control. Please let us know if (and how) this is possible and what the implied cost might be. We thank you for your time and expert advice!
Willy Vd Wyngaert
Hello! I finally had a mini-split (Daikin) installed this winter and don't really know the best/most cost effective way to run it. I basically only want to use in really cold winter and really hot summer. I heard you should not turn it off, so what is the best method to use when needed, but not waste $$ when not needed. (Did not really come with a manual, just one big sheet) Thanks so much from Maryland USA!
I’d like to know his answer also.
Set it to Auto on the remote and it keeps that temp it will change from Cool or Heat depending on temp. Mine also has a Eco button on it which means that the once it reaches temp it shuts off the unit . Then it will fire up and check the temp every now and then. I keep mine on 67 F during the summer but I use this to cool my whole house instead of using my whole house heat pump. It takes out much more water out of the air and these new Heat pumps are so expensive I had to replace my whole house heating system two years ago and it was 18,500 buck. Thats why I bought this it cools my living room/Kitchen and Bedroom just fine and my whole house is always about 75 degrees even when its 100 outside. Also my power bill is about 60 bucks cheaper each month. I bought mine online it was a scratch and dent got it for a steal and it has worked wonderful. If it lasts 3 years I will be happy I can always replace it as long as I dont have to replace my 5 ton unit again.
Installers said my multi head system should NEVER be set on Auto mode.
My understanding (researching, experimenting & comparing my energy usage) is these are "set & forget" because they have to build up pressure (2-3 days) to operate effectively.
Summer, I leave all units on 24/7, but set at higher temp. Open windows at night using whole house window fan to pull in cold night air, then the heat pump units don't have to do much and I'm comfortable day (heat pumps set cooler/windows closed), & night (heat pumps set higher/ windows open).
I'm trying to figure out how to set things for winter....I like a freezing bedroom at night, but warm in day.
If I turn off 1 head unit, my bill is very high for 3 days when I turn it on again until the pressure builds up again (?).
The bill stays lower if I don't turn them off, but turn the temperature higher/lower instead.
What about when you have multiple heads/zones on your ductless mini split system each with their own thermostat. Wouldn’t that cause issues when in auto mode (one may want to cool while the other heat leading to error and shut down)?
I'd love to know the answer to that. Good question.
Most mini split zoned systems need all the indoor units to be in the same mode or the outdoor unit will not operate. The only exception I’m aware of is systems with “heat recovery“. There may be some VRV or VRF systems as well. But again, this would be very unique and most systems do not allow.
Exactly right, NEVER use Auto mode with multi head units for this reason.
My understanding (researching, experimenting & comparing my energy usage) is these are"set & forget" because they have to build up pressure (2-3 days) to operate effectively.
Summer, I leave all units on 24/7, but set at higher temp. Open windows at night using whole house window fan to pull in cold night air, then the heat pump units don't have to do much and I'm comfortable day (heat pumps set cooler/windows closed), & night (heat pumps set higher/ windows open).
I'm trying to figure out how to set things for winter....I like a freezing bedroom at night, but warm in day.
If I turn off 1 head unit, my bill is very high for 3 days when I turn it on again until the pressure builds up again (?).
The bill stays lower if I don't turn them off, but turn the temperature higher/lower instead.
Joshua Griffin, I am looking into mini splits. My two bedrooms are 150 sq. ft. and 165 sq. ft.. I find a lot more manufacturers who only make 9000 btu units than 6000 btu. Plus, I can get better deals with dual 9000 btu systems than dual 6000 btu systems. Would a dual 9000 btu system ramp down enough in auto mode to keep both bedrooms comfortable? Should I put out the extra money to get the dual 6000 btu system? Your advice is appreciated.
I’d have a proper load calculation performed and then check the specs on the ductless units to see what they ramp down to. It’s good that you’re being aware of this issue. Many put them in and have issues down the road
So I'm confused what did the guy do. Just run the fan and not the ac circulating moist air?
Yeah auto is best. Except... One of the ones I put in my son's house doesn't throw the heat through the whole kitchen/dining room unless I set the fan on fast. It still cycles, only goes fast when actually heating. On auto it has a tendency to be satisfied when just the area in the immediate vicinity of the unit is up to setpoint. Then it short-cycles. Probably would be wiser to use an aux fan for wall mount motor longevity. But this is way easier. 😋
These high wall mounts are great for cooling, but for heating it's better to introduce the hot air at floor level.
What brand? I have a Fujitsu and found i have to do a temp offset for heating because of the thermostat location. Sometimes the offset is 10 degrees above desired temp depending on outdoor temp.
@@chrisE815
The Pioneers do a pretty good job of maintaining setpoint. I did notice when it's really cold out they seem to have some kind of anticipation where they heat a little higher than the setpoint, but that's better than being too cold.
It has an "I feel" option where it references the temp of the remote, and that's pretty neat to keep the environment around the remote at setpoint, but it times out after a couple hours so I can't just mount the remote across the room and use that full time as the thermostat.
@@elgringoec my fujitsu is so old school. Wish I paid more attention when i was buying. I would have bought a wifi connected unit and a head with a remote thermostat.
@@chrisE815
I think you got a good unit. Those accessories may be available. Pioneer has optional thermostats (I forgot about those) and WiFi interfaces. I bought two WiFi boards for my son's units, he likes that kind of silliness, I've pretty much outgrown it, but they're still in the box, haven't tried them yet. I wanted to be sure the units worked fine without them first before installing them, and we've been so busy that the WiFi control hasn't come up. I learned a long time ago to set and forget, I think my kids are finally coming around to that realization after loving the fact that they could diddle around with their own thermostats. (They were not allowed to touch the thermostats when growing up, only I could make changes, anyone else would request I make them which rarely happened)
I have daikin aroura 36k BTU 2 units outside and six indoor units. Now in winter time I use for heat my main source. I been running in in heat mode and fan on auto. Should I use auto mode for temp also
Mine is on the wall with condenser pump underneath it. The pump wont stop running there is no water
my new mini split doesnt seem to heat the foot area, should i use a mini vent to keep my feet warm?
I had the same problem myself. Because a mini split draws air from up by the ceiling and warm air rises, it keeps recycling the same warm air, leaving it cold down by the floor. I solved the problem by putting a small fan that can tilt straight up on the floor off to the side of the unit so it would push the cold air up to the ceiling and into the unit. Works fine.
I added an 8000 btu window unit to my master bedroom because my home units can’t keep up in the summer. I have a 3500 sq ft home with 7 tons of cooling.
A closet would eat up 1000 btu.
It takes 7.67 tons to cool 3500ft2???Good grief your house is inefficient as all getout!!!
I can cool my 5000ft2 with *one* ton.
@@elgringoec built in the 80’s. And I am dealing with summers that get over 100 with over 70% humidity.
I like my house at 65.
@@hkgonra You're way off system design temps. For cooling 70 should be the lowest setting.
@@hkgonra
That's got me thinking Florida weather. I suppose if you don't have cold winters then 65F might feel comfortable, but for me, that would be unpleasantly cool any time of year. My personal preferred temperature and my wife's as well is around 75F year round. We burn far more energy heating in the winter than we do cooling in the summer. But I take other measures to reduce the load on cooling in the peak summer heat.
@@bobboscarato1313 I remember 25 years ago when I was the helper for a much older seasoned HVAC guy.
The average house we worked on was built in the 70’s. He would first ask what temp do you want to keep your house. Then he would look at the age of the house (how insulated is it) as well as how many kids and dogs they have.
A house from the 70’s with a couple kids and or dogs were going to get about 400sq ft per ton of cooling. He said the quickest way to ruin your reputation is to have a customer house that they want at 70 to be 75 on a 100 degree day.
They will never call you back and make sure to run your name in the ground to anyone who listens.
Hi, I Have a 12K BTU Unit, Its Rated For Upto A 750CuFt Area. I Am Installing in In a Living Room of about 500CuFt Area. I Want To Extend it to Another Room Of About 150CuFt. Can I Do That? What Do I Need To Do? Just Get Another Indoor Unit? 🤔🤔
Thanks.
Great advice.
sounds like some simple good advice that a responsible and knowledgeable tech should told the customer (paying them money). For that piece of important information, every homeowner shouldn’t have to read the manual. I wish my tech would’ve emphasized this: He didn’t mention anything of the sort. But yea seriously go read the damn manual
Griff, I'm building a 1000 sq ft cabin with a 500 sq ft loft. My hvac man installs Gree & Mitzubisi mini-splits. Which brand would you choose for this cabin? Thank you, Cal
Mitsubishi has a better reputation and support for their dealers but Gree’s price will probably be better and still decent quality.
i am sorry, but fan speed has NO bearing on output. yes, higher fan settings ALLOW more heat to be transfferd but its not the reason it uses more power. it will still want to hold the setpoint because that is the only thing it cares about and higher fan speeds allow the system to get to it faster. but once its there the power reduces even if the fan stays high. just advising blindly to set it auto is not good advice. setting it to forced low speeds also helps comfort and take away big temperature swings even if it reduces power output. the best advice is the one is the one you have not given: its to KEEP the system on so the room gets to temp and stays there. holding a temp is MUCH more efficient than turning it off and on constantly.
Hello. I’m not sure what you’re talking about. I didn’t say anything about power consumption. I was pointing out the humidity removal is lower if the system is set on high versus auto
@@NewHVACGuide i am talking about how you think the system controls itself. and yes, high fan speeds dont remove meaningful amounts of water, that is what the dehumidify mode is for. that forces the fan even lower than normal and allows the evaporator to get down to 2~3 degrees above freezing. the outdoor unit does not care that you set the indoor unit to dry or its fan to low. it does not know you did that. it only wants to keep the evaporation temp on the low side to 1~3 degrees above freezing. nothing more or less.
That may be true for some ductless systems, but most of them are using communicating, inverter technology. I encourage you to read the instructions for a high end Daikin or Mitsubishi.
I need some help with this problem.
Mini split manuals say the minimum height of the inside unit is 98.5" from the bottom of the unit to the floor. The instructions say the full cooling effect won't be reached if placed lower than 98.5".
My ceiling height is less than what they say is required. I am trying to think about the reason for a reduction in the cooling effect. I noticed they did not use the word performance or mention a reduced heating effect. I doubt the coolant knows how high the indoor unit is, so the only thing I can think of is the fact that hot air rises, and whoever wrote the height requirement might have been thinking about a layer of hot air floating above the unit that would
cause a perceived loss of cooling effect.
The instruction says to leave 6" between the top of the unit and the ceiling for, I presume, door clearance. It seems to me that regardless of the floor-to-unit height if the unit is as tight to the ceiling as required, there would be no reduction in the cooling effect. Then again, maybe there is something I don't understand about coolant flow requirements in mini split air conditioners. What do you think?
Clearances are usually minimums. A minimum for airflow or servicing. Height requirements have more to do with comfort. Most systems are designed with the algorithms understanding that they will be mounted high to blow low. Heat rises and so comfort in the space takes that into account. Mounting it at a different height, may require you to set the temperature higher or lower than typical to get the desired comfort
@@NewHVACGuideTY for helping us all and taking the time to answer our questions sir 👍👍
I am wondering, which setting on these units are more finaically cheaper, should you leave it on automatic or on the coolest setting. I have a 18,000 BTU and I am only cooling one small bedroom, on the coolest setting it gets to cold and I have to turn it off, then back on. I set it at 30 and I live in Europe so the temp. setting may be different than in America where I am from. If I have it on Automatic it doesn't seem to get cool enough, this is also a new unit. I just need to know which setting is the most economic way, and which is beter, to trun it off when it gets to cold then back on when it gets to warm, the unit never shuts off automatically. 🙃🙃🙃
Too many folks in society do not read instruction, period. I know people who have spent $75,000 on a brand new vehicle and simply refuse to read the owners manual. I have to laugh at those who won't because they will never know the capabilities and functions of their new vehicle vs. what they think they knew about their previous vehicle. Same goes with most of everything else. They'll purchase something from Home Depot or an appliance of some kind and never bother to read the instructions or the manual. Then, when something isn't going just right, they will screw with it, possibly damaging it way before referencing the book. Some people are just well off in buying the low end model if they will not read about the functions, features of their new purchases. It's amazing to observe those who paint themselves into a corner only because they never bothered to read and learn to operate the things they acquire. Reminds me of several politicians pushing their ideas before looking into the value in the matter.
Ya gotta sign it then find out what's in the bill!!!
In this day and age morons abound; they think they know everything, don't they?
@@bobboscarato1313
It's amazing how my father went from knowing nothing when I was 18 to so wise by the time I hit 30. 🤔😮😂
How true. I would never buy a super deluxe bells and whistles car because I think all those extras kill the life of the basic function of the thing you're buying way before its time. I'll read the manual but I'm a hard sell on all the new tech that makes the manual 5"thick so you can now only get it (the manual) on the internet.
@@elgringoec LOL
Thanks for this!
You’re welcome!
Hey guys, i have a fugitsu mini split 5 zones unit.
Can I have it set on auto on one head and dry mode on another head at the same time without damaging?
I did a video recently on this exact topic that you should check out. Most multi zone systems cannot be in different modes and operate properly. Although this would not necessarily create damage to the system, it will usually just not operate at all, if the systems are in different modes.
Thx for the pro tip
"All"
I think people just like the white noise. If we stay at a motel, we run the fan in the on position all night
6.5 minutes to say "put your unit on auto".
That's how they pay people on UA-cam 😂
Thanks for saving me the time.
bloke its Knott
There is no auto settings LoL
What brand do you have? Most of them have an auto setting for the fan.
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@@NewHVACGuide PIONEER Diamante Series
Dude. Thanks for the remote tips but you're way too loud.
Sorry pal
Bro you talk too much god
Sorry pal
Brainrot