Climb Safe: How to belay with the Jul²
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- Опубліковано 25 лип 2024
- The Jul² is an assisted braking belay device. How does it work? How is the rope inserted? How do brake hand and guide hand work together for taking up or paying out rope? What failures should one be aware of when operating the device? The Safety Research Group of the DAV provides anwers.
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If you belayed like that at my local gyms, they'd freak out. Letting go of the rope (even if the hand is loosely wrapped around it) and sliding it up would get you a talking too. And you wouldn't pass the belay test fo sho.
Do I aggree? No, but they're super picky.
I know that American gyms are weird about that, but that's the way even Edelrid recommends doing.
Yeah I'm just planning to pass a belay test at a gym that uses these, and this seems disastrous. Good way to waste my test for the day
In Europe this "sliding tunnel" method is widely taught
@@bullfrogboss8008 Really? I don't have experience in other countries, but I never saw someone belay like that (when top roping) in a Dutch gym (and I don't think they'd be very happy with it). Afaik here they all teach (and I'd assume made mandatory) a style where you have both hands on the rope part underneath the device as much as possible.
@@B0K1T0 The tunneling method is the most commonly used one in Poland from my experience. I was taught to use it on my belay course. I've also heard it's popular in Czechia and Germany. There are countries where most of the gyms forbid using it, but as far as I know, climbing organizations consider it safe.
Your accent sounds like semi German semi Kiwi. Are you a German living in New Zealand?
As for belay device - thanks for the video! Do you think Jul is safer than ATC and if yes - why?
nice1 - thx
His belaying method does not seem completely safe. As seen around 2:35 he let go of the bottom part of the rope, which means the climber would not be secure at that moment....
It's a technique that's safe and widely accepted by many climbing organizations. It's preferred by some cause it's easy and simplistic, doesn't require ur hands to cross each other in a weird way. Ur brake hand is still wrapped around the brake line just loosely. Always watching ur partner means you know when they are going to fall, which is when you grip it tightly as usual.
Seams to use the tunnel technic, this is not accepted in all country but it is way more risky with regular tubing device, the Jul2 certainly block as long as the rope is not over the device. I have the Jul2 and it grab as crazy even if you do not hold the rope (if you keep it under the device). I do not use the thumb method as described to give slack for lead climbing, i touch less as possible the device and simply let the thing do the work (I just want to make sure I dont keep it lifted up at wrong timing, if you dont touch it it will grab all the time with the good rope spec). It is a bit harder to give slack without the thumb method but with some practice it goes very well and in my opinion it makes the device perfectly safe.
Is this video sponsored or endorsed by edelrid? Because the whole lead section looked so sus to me. I prefer to belay using a redundant system, especially on semi-automatic devices.
Our climb safe videos are not sponsored by any company.