Attic insulation!! What's best?? What are we using??!
Вставка
- Опубліковано 19 вер 2022
- / neckofthewoods2020
Tjernlund LT4 Lint Trap for DEDPV Dryer Booster Fans
amzn.to/3wANEoh
Bosch laser tape measure
amzn.to/3RAPlKq
2-3/8-Inch x .113 x 28 Degree Hot Dip Galvanized Ring Shank
amzn.to/3BmAeih
Diablo router 3/8 round bit
amzn.to/3J0iOug
Milwaukee router
amzn.to/3OgaU0B
Epidemic sound for music and sound effects with no copy right infringement!! sign up today!
share.epidemicsound.com/42gdmn
E12 LED bulbs
amzn.to/39GyTYv
Talstar pest control
amzn.to/3wEKVsX
Backpack sprayer
amzn.to/3sNySII
Onwote
amzn.to/3yXqsTh
ethernet female to female
amzn.to/3sy08Lk
Gopro 8 case
amzn.to/3JNavRa
Gopro gimble
amzn.to/3jNXcFt
Gopro 8 pack
amzn.to/3jPDusZ
Zip roller
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08...
Zip stretch tape
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08...
Zip tape
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07...
Milwaukee drills
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07...
Dewalt saw
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01...
Ariat
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08...
Truewerk bibs
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07...
Gopro
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08...
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07...
DJI Mavic Mini
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07... - Навчання та стиль
I'm currently working on my attic. I had vermiculite in there. For the safety of my family and their long term health I got it removed. Since then, I have been going up there weekly air sealing, insulating pipes, adding baffles and metal mesh to gable vents to keep out squirrels. Next I have to build up hatch and blow in the cellulose. Got 60 bags stored in my garage right now and have machine reserved for later this week.
It's honestly so much work I want to puke. Some days after getting down from there i do puke. But I know in the end it'll be worth it cause I actually care about the project and what it adds to the house.
Yeah specially in the summer! So hot too. Just keep a mask on and get it done. Once it is, it’s so worth it!
Re. T&G wood; I used some Bostick PU glue to attach heavy, pre-fabricated plaster ceiling panels to a raw plasterboard ceiling. These panels were 100 x 60 cm in size and 2.1 cm thick and probably around 9kg each. Because of the steel profile supporting the plasterboard hanging off the ceiling at 60cm intervals I was only able to use around 4 to 5 screws per panel to "secure" it the profile. The panels are still up there and no sign of them failing. I imagine that T&G board, even laminate or composite, is far lighter than a 3/4" plaster panel.
its the same stuff i used in the vault ceiling. 6" wide T&G wood panels. i think they are 5/8" thick. so no, not to heavy. the T&G will definitely help hold a board to the ceiling if the one above and below are nailed to the furring strips on the other side of the ceiling drywall! it still worries me though only nailing into drywall. i guess if i shoot the nail at and angle and use something like you did, while its drying, the angled nail will hold it from falling, plus the boards above and below.
The tongue and groove ceiling you would only want to hit the trusses. Put chalk lines on the ceiling where the trusses are and only nail where they are. If you want a wider area to hit, screw 2x4s where the trusses are on the 4 inch face into the trusses.
but with the current furring strips the nails will have a gap before they get to the trusses in between them and the drywall. itll have to be a 3" nail or so. and with only a 1.5" area, under drywall, gapped with furring strips, i can almost bet ill miss a ton of trusses. and only just a little bit of nail will get into the truss as the over all distance is 1.875" before the truss bottom. adding 2x4's would work but thats going to be harder and maybe more money than adding furring strips on the inside of the drywall.
Come on! Americans aren't "terrible" at building houses - they have some disadvantages and different methods which may be more pertinent to your locale. But the Americans (and Canadians) come up with some excellent products and methodologies that we just can't get hold of or duplicate in Europe - let alone in cost effectiveness. Also, inspections in America and Canada are infinitely superior, easier and cheaper to those in Europe (where they exist - even after paying for planning fees).
we do and people do use those technologies but its like 1%. your typical american home builder is just 2x6's, osb, drywall, and fiberglass and they call it day. i know thats how they are all built around here besides some still doing 2x4's but they have to add something else to the wall to achieve the R15 minimum code.
@@neckofthewoods24 Aye, 'tis true - but it shouldn't detract from the 'other end' of the market. I am highly impressed by, for example, ICCF (as in The Perfect Block from Arizona or RASTRA) and the possibility of using micro-rebar (such as that from Helix) for non-joint and slab reinforcement instead of rebar in ICCF and also using ICCF panels for roofing. Also using an ICF raft for a foundation slab or FastFab footings. I recall your decisions about ICF and the suppliers have changed somewhat since then. My thought is that if I can, for a building shell - including roof, use 12" ICCF, then it might reduce the hassle you guys have gone through and generously informed "us" (the unwashed, general public) about.
Re. the other comment about glue; I have also been highly impressed about the efficacy of PU glue (and how quickly it will support a ceiling=placed load) - such as, for example, UHU PU MAX - it's a bitch to "detach" (if even sometimes impossible) when anything you "get wrong" needs re-doing! I weigh 120kg and it supports me from a ceiling panel! I Used extra long drywall screws to go through the plasterboard into the ceiling steel profile. As long as the substrate is securely attached, PU glue will almost certainly support the load of boards.
I’m glad to hear someone else say the poor construction and insulation techniques we put up with.
I’m planning my build and I’m up against finding all the right methods, it’s not easy.
Not easy finding someone else! Very easy with this method!! Just can spray foam everything you can see and blow the rest in. Crazy cheap for what you get!
You can seal the whole house after putting a thousand holes in the ceiling drywall by using a vaporized caulk that seals the whole house. It's like fumigating, but it's pressurized, and seals every small crack and hole. See Matt Risinger's videos on that.
Yes I’ve seen that. Unfortunately it’s thousands upon thousands of dollars. I guess I’ll be on the high side cause of my house and volume size. I’m coming up with almost $12,000!!
Do you have access to the other side of the vaulted ceilings? If so glue a 2x4 on its flat, from the peak down to the walls in the middle of each truss so you now have 12 inch on centre to nail to.
i do have access but from the other side the furring strips are in the way. id have to cut a million of them up and glue them down in between each furring strip. that a lot of 2x4's, cost, cutting, gluing, and getting them all to fit is say 1 strips 13.5" and another is 13". i couldnt just cut them all to length. the furring strips on the inside could me more cost effective and less labor.
Installing the T&G and nailing it on your 2' truces would work. Being 1" and being interlocked. At least a 21/2 length.
Just going to be hard not seeing the trusses and having the gap away from the trusses with the furring strips. The furrings should be able to hold the weight no issue.
I was thinking that the furring strips are running 90 degrees from the trusses, which are 2' on centers. I would go in the attic to one truss. At the Bottom and at the peak and push a nail through the sheet rock . Into the room that will give you a reference to see the other trusses. You are very good at thinking the steps though, in this case you are adding more than needed with my experience with T&G. Reading all of of our comments I'm sure you will put a solid plan together.
@@kimgaleno9255 yes the furring strips are perpendicular to the trusses but that means running in the same direction as the T&G boards. I’ll figure it out though!
I would attach furring strips with 2x4's and long screws. be careful and make sure they hit your roof trusses. only nail the tongue and groove into those, it will hold just fine.
Also, put a layer or mud and tape on all drywall seams beforehand or you won't get an air seal. Closed cell spray foam is 900 dollars. a bucket of mud and a roll of tape is 25 dollars. plus, with that closed cell foam, you lose the ability to dry outwards with vapor in the house into the vented attic space.
If the current furring strips are already into the trusses, I think more furring strips screwed into those furring strips would hold just find. Also a 2x4 sounds really over kill. I wouldn’t hang from the 1x3 furring but the T&G should hold pretty tight.
As for mud first, it might air seal ok but not once I put up more furring strips and they go through the drywall and current strips. Also I need a vapor retarder. I think by the time I pay someone to tape, mud and paint I’ll be over $900. I could do it but it sounds terrible haha. I agree though about closed cell vapor since it’s a vapor barrier and not a retarder.
I think just adding firing strips from bottom to top would be the best way to go and think you could go 24" on center to save time and come money.
i agree! unless you think i can do no furring strips and just go straight to the drywall. every few boards a T&G will hit a furring strip so that one will be locked in! ones that hit to furring strip cant really fall because the tongue or groove is holding it up. with a little glue and shooting the nails in at an angle, i dont think the woods heavy enough to fall off while the glues drying. idk just a thought. but yes, for strength, more furring strips on the inside would be bullet proof.
@@neckofthewoods24 If you can only hit a firing strip every 4 boards it may not all sit flat to the ceiling and some may bow out a little. You want to make sure on a ceiling that they all Hit wood.
I don’t know for sure if closed cell would do the job for nail holes, but I’d certainly be for
that inch of CC for the insulation value. Your engineer may have thought about
the issue of furring layers like that before and might have an elegant solution
the rest of us wouldn’t think of.
it should as long as they dont go through. instead of nails, maybe finish nails or brad nails with caulking or glue. just something short. the closed cell i used on the internal gable end walls is like solid plastic and rock hard. cant believe its an R7 but i know its almost water proof and air leak proof as long as gap doesnt open or separation from a joist doesnt occur. i could as my engineer but it seems like a HVAC type of issue or the people who do whole house calculations for HVCA. i forget what its called, a spec J or something?
The company could have just kept the bags boring, the fancy bags probably cost them more which in turn costs us more.
The material does look different. Plus the extra amount. I can’t remember what it is but like 25% more. I’d have to do the math to see what the cost is per pound with each.
I have read that cellulose only last around 30 years.
I could see that. Gets compressed and isn’t fluffy anymore. Guess we could leave it or throw some lighter weight fiberglass on top. Or just suck it all out and do it again.
@@neckofthewoods24 Lots of trade offs. I don't like the weight or the lifespan but I might be able to live with the reduced R value of fiberglass. I think the R value only degrades if you let air flow through it from what I read. If there is a good seal into the living space I don't think it will reduce but I am not totally sure. I am heating with wood and it's for a shop so I don't really care about the R value reduction .... maybe. Thanks.
@@stevenpringle7813 see I read it just drops as the temps drop. Idk. I have a thermal. Just have to see someone else attic to compare like above and below. Either way just make it thick! Spend a couple hundred more get step the R value up and don’t do just code in your area.
You don’t ship lap over drywall
Take dry wall out
And the vapor retarder solution people do then? And the fire code?
it would be nice if they sold cellulose with no lethal poisons in it, currently is full of borate and such
But then it’d just be paper and your house would take nothing to light up like a Christmas tree!
oh also, the recycled paper can be full of chemicals such as BPAs which affect the endocrines, I'm spray foaming my attic and considering putting hay on top of the 2 inch spray foam on the attic @@neckofthewoods24
now if I was really concernec about fires I'd install fire resistant drywall on interior walls and a proper fire alarm monitoring system instead of filling up my house with toxic chemicals , no wonder why the cancer rates are so high across the states @@neckofthewoods24
none of it gets into our house. we are fully sealed with a blower door score around 0.6 ach50. it'll drop more once we mud, tape and paint. many would consider using spray foam make of nothing but chemicals to be and issue also. its code you must use fire resistant drywall on the ceilings anyways. using it on the inside walls would be a waste since we are talking about attic fires. yes tight houses and what we use today is a reason for cancer rates but thats why you ventilate properly.
You’re really over thinking this thermal leak stuff. Like damn. When you hang pictures etc on walls you going to go and somehow seal behind that on the walls? Like the extra work you’re going to do to try and cover nail holes because of “thermal loss” is insignificant for how much labor it’ll be. You seem to like to do a lot of extra work for little benefit.
no but latex house paint could help seal the hole vs just drywall or lumber for air leakage. guess it depends how thick it is. all i want is to get under a blower door score of passive house which is less than 0.6 air exchanges an hour. ive done a lot less than what other lengths people go to achieve that since ICF is already done for you. but a nail into a wall stud isnt going to be a thermal loss unless the nail goes outside the house and into a cavity with insulation it should be fine thermally. a nail into a cavity with poor insulation and that nail being to close to the outside can get cold, condensate and hurt your insulation over time. it does happen and ive seen it before!
Bla bla bla
😁
tong and groove sucks it a pain to install and is hard to install due small warping of material
So far it’s been ok. I hand picked all the boards.