I cleaned woodchip insulation from my 40yo attic, then spray foamed the whole attic floor, then on rafters added rigid 2inch foam insulation has baffles and Reflective Foil Double Bubble Foil Insulation to the whole attic ceiling to keep cold air out on winter and reflect heat on summer, now I decided to go with 16inch blown insulation (on top of the 1 inch flash of foam), but will keep the center walkable part of the attic with rigid foam so we can put storage rom there. Big job, specially working on those corners customizing every foam for every rafter as a baffle sucked.
Excellent information! I've watched 50+ attic videos. You do a great job explaining the essentials, cutting through the crap and telling it straight! Good job!
Appreciate the info but just some constructive criticism on your video, it's hard to follow what you're saying without images embedded when you're mentioning an item (ex: show a baffle pop up next to you when you bring it up in your discussion and so on. Show images of what you mean of a good install vs poor install of whatever you said.
This was helpful to me as I’ve been researching through many videos and forums but I have to agree. If I came in fresh a few pics/diagrams would improve this video greatly.
Always check the Entire attic if you hire someone to do the insulation for you. We decided to add a attic door in our garage and found that 1/3 of our attic had zero insulation. It was cleaned up but the other area of house had the shredded insulation obstruct the view of this area so we just discovered it! It was an expensive job and years had passes! Kept wondering why house temp was never quite right. 😅
Thanks for the tips. You mention taking up the plywood if used for storage. Could you put down some sheets of 2" rigid insulation (R10) first then lay down plywood? Seems to me like this would help keep the warm air from the house from going up towards the attic and visa-versa.
Michael, I have watched many of your videos, I really enjoy them and they are very helpful with my home projects. I will be tackling my attic either this spring or fall when temps are in the 50's or 60's. This particular video is going to be a guide for me to do the best job I can! My heating bills are horrible, the attic is a disaster with no air sealing, old attic fan, and little insulation. Also much of it has flooring, which now I will be removing. Thanks so much for sharing your expertise and helping folks like me! By the way, I'm in Cincinnati, I'll let you know how it goes.
If its a lot of flooring i would just leave it there and add rolled insulation over the top of it. Plywood or OSB has a r-value and ripping it up isn’t doing you any good but causing more effort for nothing. If you add rolled insulation over the top and you need to get to an area of your attic to work on something you can just simply roll up the insulation and set it aside while you work and once your done working just roll it back out. If you blow insulation over the top of it you’ll be temped to walk on it and flatten the blown in insulation. I would do a combination of both. Blow in insulation where you wont ever need to walk and add rolled insulation over your walkway. You can add 1 inch foam insulation 12” tall to the sides of your walkway to add a barrier between the walkway and everything else to keep the blown in insulation separate from the walkway.
Agreed. Whole house fans are a real advantage in the summer build a cover to cover it in the winter. The wood for up there before it was all covered so ya Gina chop it into small pieces? You can even raise the floor up 12-18” and insulate underneath and still keep Valuable storage areas useful. Less is sometimes more
Hi there I have a cellulose blown air attic. Its still good, not wet etc its just shrunken and with lots of folks in the attic over time and installs of bathroom fans and an attic heat pump its settled and clearly needs some TLC. I dont want to do rent and do blown fibreglass itchy as hell and in general not a big fan. Its harder to find rental blown cellulose where I am plus I heard its really dusty and not always easy. My latest thought is perhaps just buy lots of bags of ROCKWALL insulation as we used that in a basement reno and it seems pretty decent to work with. Suggestions tips welcome.
I'm in Massachusetts. I have a 1-story ranch and emptied my attic of all the storage my parents had up there. But noticed the house has been so cold during the winter. Finally realized the insulation in the attic wasn't really sufficient. We have had some mice in the house - not sure if in the attic but I imagine so. We def have some openings that need to be sealed. Should I "expect" an insulation company will do that (I'd expect to pay for the additional work) or do I need to call someone else to seal any areas - wasn't sure if air sealing is the same as sealing areas where mice might get in. Thank you!
Great info - thank you! will make my project easier. I have a question, though: is a baffle required between each truss or just those that have vents at the bottom of them.
This video is more suited to the south. Here in the midwest, some of these things don't apply or are done differently. Most of our Heating and HVAC are located in basement. I do appreciate the confirmation bias you helped me out with. Trying to convince the wife to suck out ALLL the old cellulose and OG R-7 foil backed rolled ins and NOT blow NEW on top. I think I may have. Not looking forward to that part... as no one in my area rents attic vacs.
Yes we are mainly here in the southeast! However I wish you luck with everything! As we grow out we would love to see all sides of America's basements and crawl spaces!
I wish you were in Albuquerque NM. There are a lot of companies here that don't check for what you said or start with expensive fixes rather than adding a simple damper, checking seals, etc. I get the feeling that professionalism here means a bigger bill. I'm at whit's end with them and spend my time watching video after video about ductwork and insulation, trying to learn how to do it myself.
I was a professional insulator for many many years. I did not read any of the articles or watch any of the, videos I just saw the headline. The most important thing is ventilation you can blow it as deep as you want or put in blanket insulation as deep as you want but the most important thing is ventilation that's all
@@ChunkyChancho I know this is two years later, but seems like they’re referring to attic ventilation to release the hot air, for example. So that it can escape and allow cool air in, rather than stay pent up radiating through the ceiling of your home.
The cellulose has boric acid in it and critters hate the smell. Harmless to people and the family pets. I was a insulator in Colorado and Maine. I've insulated everything from cars to homes, both new and old.
Ive lived in 3 homes with blown insulation all less than 20 years old..and the dust that gets in the home is horrible for an allergy sufferer like myself..get the foam or batt..that blow stuff is terrible for your health..mark my words..there will be lawsuits in the near future..very unhealthy for people.
great video you covered all of the basics and Saved me time and money! I'm a DIY Type of guy! I work at the largest Building supply/lumber yard in my Area! so I can get anything at cost+10%!!Thank You Sir!! subscribed!!
Thank you Michael for sharing this video, I built a 32x32 detached garage behind my home several years ago that has an upstairs room I would like to heat in the wintertime here in Michigan. The building has insulation in the walls with baffles at the ridges to allow air to flow. The ceiling between the lower and upper floors are insulated and the roof has a ridge vent as well. There is no insulation between the roof and trusses on the inside upstairs. What kind of insulation would I use to insulate the roof as to not have a mold problem? do I need to have a space between the insulation and the roof to have airflow? or can I just insulate against the rafters or roof panels? Thank you for your help in advance.
I'm starting a re-wire, and the first step is to remove the old insulation, white fiberglas. This 1938 house doesn't have drywall, it's 3/4" tongue-and-groove hardwood everywhere with a wallpaper finish (with a thin cardboard backer). The attic hatch is about 2" square, and opens atop one of the upstairs bedrooms. Originally that space above that bedroom was "it," with no intended access to the rest of the attic space ... a slanted wall up in there prevented it. Not sure why they even bothered to make the hatch opening, since getting up there to store only small boxes seems like a lot of effort for such little storage?? Anyway, a year ago the previous homeowner had someone install HVAC for the 2nd floor. They cut a passageway out of that wall in the attic to fit the air handler and ductwork through. Now I have a way to crawl into the rest (I hope) of the attic space. It's gonna take a lot of trash bags to remove the old insulation, which is all dirty and mottled from when the roof leaked. I'll have to use batts. I hate working with fiberglas, so might consider some of the rest. I used mineral wool batts in the basement of another house because moisture won't ruin it and it won't burn.
Thanks great infor I did add some batt blanket in our attic but a Bi-level lower pitch plus limit access around A/C unit with pipes & large ducts. It's too much work i did 2 house myself but I had excellent access.
Attic power vents are very nice to have. New insulation is fire resistant. Not a big problem if some is touching the exhaust vent. If its B vent/double wall it's not a problem. It's just good practice for nothing to touch it.
Also, My home was built in 74' I do NOT have soffit ventilation, I recently had the roof done and they removed the ...uh whirly vents (didn't know what to call them) and added a ridge vent. Is this an issue?
@@tsadkiel2008 Your ventilation system should work together. Soffit vents work with ridge vents. The whirly birds work when you have another intake vent, like cross-gable vents.
Getting ready to air seal the attic here in S. Tx adding blown in fiberglass, we live in a nightmare of a home! I have a hip roof design, that has slant roof louvers, plus what looks like ridge vents on the eave, some seem to be dummies and some, most, have been spray painted over, kind of sealing them, how do I fix this, just replace them all, and if so, the attic has zero baffles over these eave vents, would I need to install the baffles all around the perimeter? Are the roof louvers enough for attic venting in itself. We also have a chimney.. how do I go about insulating or creating a barrier when blowing in fiberglass.. Currently there is zero insulation around the chimney in the attic. Please help!
2 QUESTIONS: When air sealing your attic space do you cover ceiling fan / regular lighting fixtures with anything before insulating as you do with can lights? Do you have a video just on air sealing?
Yes! We use can light covers (here's a video about them: ua-cam.com/video/2mvqtm1CU_E/v-deo.html ) it's a good idea to cover any exposed electrical unit that could get hot and needs to be kept away from insulation. And here are some videos showing/talking more about air sealing ua-cam.com/video/pMaEryXCsl0/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/GuC1O-tmMuM/v-deo.html
@@DarinWheeler1967 Don't do anything special with normal electrical junction boxes, but do cover recessed can lights that could get hot as @Crawl Space Ninja said. I've seen a lot of videos where contractors are using spray foam around electrical boxes. It's not a code violation to do that for air sealing, but do remember that spray foam is very combustible. A fire stop caulk like 3M CP25 WB+ is a safer choice for sealing between ceiling boxes and the drywall.
Great informative video! Getting ready to air seal my 900ft attic and add additional blow in fiberglass. I’m in Charlotte and trying to decide between r38 or r49. Knowing code for new builds is 38, is it worth it to go up to 49 in our region ($200 extra). Thanks!
What if your attic is a walk up attic. It's like another room/floor. My attic is 7 feet tall at the peak in the middle.. Do you insulate under the roof? Or do you still insulate under the floor?
Insulation's ultimate goal, aside from energy efficiency, is to keep rooms comfortable year-round. Therefore, we insulate the attic floor to ensure maximum comfort in the living areas. We would risk heat gain and loss from adjacent rooms below and the attic space if we insulated the underside of a pitched roof. When comparing attic floor insulation to roof insulation, there is no contest. Floors always win. An unfinished attic space should be insulated from the ground up. When families decide to convert an unfinished attic space into something usable or livable, this rule does not apply.
I have sprayed under-my roof deck with open cell, but my house still get very hot in the summer time, i have been considering spraying the top ceiling Joist too... would I need to ventilate my attic too? Or is this something you recommend? This is an unfinished attic I dont have central air, I have mini ductless units in my house
Would it be a good idea to add batt insulation & then plywood on top (for storage) & then add some more batt insulation over the plywood? This way you can have insulation plus storage
I'm in central Texas. My home was built in 74. It's 2000 sq ft. It has no soffit vents at all. Just gable vents. I installed a new roof and now have ridge vents. Should I install multiple soffit vents and seal off my gable vents? Would foil board be beneficial to out foam foil board on my gables or insulation batting or both? The house has 4 gables and only 2 are vented.
Hi Michael, do you think it's okay to remove the old blown in insulation and replace with foam insulation? My house is about 90 years old. It has a flat roof. I was quoted around $2,000 to foam insulate the floor part of the crawl space. They also quoted $3 per square foot to remove the old insulation. Thank you in advance!
Question: I have two additions on my house and there isn't any ceiling ventilation that I've noticed nor an attic. Can I put paper batt insulation under the roof decking?
What about flat roofs? (What do I type to find info on this?) What about rigid foam dropped btwn each ceiling joist with spray around each? 1890's brick duplex with a flat roof near Albany NY...
I’m in NY and had attic blown in insulation installed flooring 1.5 years ago almost 2 feet high and for two weeks I hear gnawing scratching hours at my bedroom vent and unable to access with all fiberglass insulation and I’m highly concerned that the plastic tubing ductwork going to my vent is being gnawed on and the mice are urinating and dropping feces that will cause toxic air leaking from vents !! I have contacted several useless pest control companies who won’t walk on insulation and I can’t access attic as broke hands. Critical anyone doing this to provide total exclusion as you say and if you would be able to advise me I would be very grateful I’m alone in the house
@@CrawlSpaceNinja Thanks for responding ! I contacted a couple of insulation contractors and will follow up with them. I signed with pest control company who was at house yesterday and placed sensors notifying business of time day mouse activity and they placed baiting stations (2) so will see what happens. Hopefully sleep will resume in a day …. Wishing you happy holidays !
I'm looking at removing old insulation before starting on new.. Our house was built in 1946 and it has a mixture of old loose insulation. I was warned about old loose insulation that contained asbestos. Any advice here?
My new place is from 1955 and has old loose fiberglass all over the attic… Was there ever any concern about fiberglass mixed with asbestos? Well that would be a game changer/worrisome if that were the case…
I want to insulate to gable ends in the attic with Rockwool R-22 insulation. There are no vertical studs except the flat studs of the roof truss. also the are a lot of framing & siding nails which can't be cut to put new 2X6 studs. I live in Wilmington, NC & my attic get get up to around 120 degrees in the summer time & about 30 degrees in the winter. My question is: can I use a little construction adhesive to help hold the insulation in place?
I really need to have some sort of storage in the attic. Its not a lot by any means but like you said its literally boxed holiday decorations. Is there any issues with building up a small shelf above the floor joists to store things on while still maintaining the needed R value underneath?
It should be safe to add loads to a truss that are small compared to the weight of the truss itself (such as an attic light fixture), but adding loads beyond that could pose a threat. A truss member will be stressed proportionally to its length and thickness when a load is applied in the middle of it. Every pound of loading to the middle of a truss may increase the stress on some parts of the board by more than twenty pounds if it has an 8' long 2x4 board without anything attached to the middle. Trusses can be designed to withstand interior loads, but such trusses would be more expensive than those not designed for the purpose.
I have a cape with a good sized attic space and I want to make the space conditioned air so to do that I need to insulate the walls & roof. Can you give me any info on how to best do that?
We do not. You will most likely need an insulation that is heat resistant. I would check with your local codes department to see what they require for it.
So, I have a finished room above garage but there is walking space on each side of the FROG walls. Shouldn’t there be insulation on those walls to prevent attic heat from super heating the FRoG causing the AC to come on all the time?
I have questions I removed the old insulation of the attic that was the original when it was built 50 years ago. I bought an R 30 unface but I was told that it is not the right insulation for the attic. That it needs to be face insulation for the attic. Does it really matter if it unface. I live in New Orleans.
What you could do is do it in two layers. The first layer lay with the framing. The second layer, lay perpendicular to the first. That way, you cover the areas above the framing.
@@thezfunk that’s exactly what I did. I went overkill with opening up my soffits, using silver board as baffles, placing Kraft faced r 13 in the bays along the deck then put unfaced r 38 at 90 degrees from the r13. I also have 3 thermostatically controlled gable fans.
The problem with insulation companies is most are only interested in getting the job and they don't put in insulation stops in new homes they say it's the framers job and the framer says it's the insulation companies job so it's not done I worked for a builder I came in after the insulation company had put on the vapor barrier so the drywaller could put up the drywall the next day when I got their I looked up and no insulation stops so I phoned the boss 5 hrs later we had gotten nowhere the insulter said it was the framers job and the framer said it was the insulaters job so I had to run to the lumber yard and get the dams and install them and put the vapor barrier back up the drywaller came in the morning and put the drywall all on and 2 days later the insulation company came and blew in the fiberglass insulation it's surprising how many people will try to use fiberglass insulation to stop an air leak also ever taken fiberglass bats out of a wall you can see where every air leak was and it's path from outside to inside come summer I will be doing extensive upgrades to my house part of it has no insulation in the roof or the walls since the roof on that addition was built in such a way as sealing it water tight the drywall has rotted out in some of the walls and part of the roof so I'll fir out the walls to 2 x6 with styrofoam insulation put R 20 insulation in the walls will put a roof over the roof so I can attach it water tight to the original house when I do I'll put a layer of R 12 and a layer of R 20and with the R 12 in the old roof it'll give me a minimum of R 44 so in these 2 old additions I'll have almost no thermal bridging in the old part of the house I'll pull the old vermiculite insulation in from the edges and put vapor barrier on and blow in cellulose insulation about R30 added to what's there will give me R 40 since I have that bubble insulation they use under radiant concrete floors it should make the old place quite cozy next winter especially if I put plastic on all the windows I'd like to replace them but to do that I need a permit and then I have to bring the whole house up to the new code and to do so you might as well tear it down and start over
I have an old house and I have attic floor can I put plastic film on the floor and put insulation Batts on top of the plastic I have insulation. Between floor and ceiling I'm not going to tear the flooring out to much work
Hi, I live in Toronto Canada where are weather is extreme, during winter time is extremely cold and the opposite during the summer, can I install radiant barrier and blow cellulose in the attic? due to the mix climate. Thanks
As heat travels through the attic insulation, it switches from radiant heat to conductive heat. Hence, both types of insulation are necessary. Radiant barriers and traditional attic insulation complement each other.
From an air-leakage perspective, recessed light fixtures are one of the biggest openings in a house. The average CFM50 per fixture for can lights was 9.1, or 0.15 to 0.31 ACH50. You can see right through conventional recessed cans due to their leakiness.
Living in Washington state.. we heat and cool. Would using foam board insulation between the joists and sealing with can foam before blowing in insulation be a good idea? Or would that end up being too tight and cause moisture issues? Any advice would be great!
Dan - Foam cut into narrow rectangles and inserted between joists does not perform as well as a continuous layer of rigid foam on the exterior. Performing air sealing work at the perimeter of the floor (the rim joists areas) is the first step. Whether or not you fill the joists with fluffy insulation (mineral wool, fiberglass, or cellulose), this is an absolute necessity. Fill the joist bays with fluffy insulation as an optional step two. Using this method, you want batts that fill the joist bays completely (or use blow-in insulation). Under the joists, apply a continuous layer of rigid foam. High-quality tape should be used to seal the seams of rigid foam to ensure airtightness. To protect the rigid foam from creatures, layer it with OSB or plywood. Let us know if you have any other questions. We appreciate you watching and hope you have a happy and blessed day.
Michael Church can provide a step by step guide on how to tackle your attic specifically! First feel free to submit a Ask a Ninja Form - crawlspaceninja.com/ask-a-ninja/
MWNGW - It is possible to move a lot of air through turbine vents in a short period of time. The roof will also require fewer turbine vents than 12-14 vents, which reduces leakage risks. On large gable roofs with little area at the peak, turbine vents are the best option. Thanks for watching and we hope you have a happy and blessed day.
The whole house fans is one of the best ways to cool your home in the summer literally in minutes. How about you build an insulated cover so you’re not removing something so beneficial?
They do make insulated covers for attic fans. You can find them usually at Lowes or Home Depot. Keeping the attic fan vent covered will save you energy and prevent ice dams. You may prefer to keep your attic vents open in summer, but you'll almost certainly want them closed in winter. No matter if you have an attic fan with a ridge vent or not, this is true.
Hi. I've gone through countless videos about this topic. However I can't find an appropriate one for my friends in Indonisia. I'm looking for a dirt cheap kind of roof insulation for dirt poor people. They always have around 40 degrees Celsius in the house. And they have monsoon rain of course that causes very high air humidity. Does anybody know a insulation that can be done with material that they have on hand anyway - like clay or whatever.
Open cell is not something I am real familiar with other than it tends to cost less and has the ability to allow moisture to enter. I have seen people install in the entire attic though.
Yes, open cell foam is an excellent insulation but it costs a lot. In addition to R-value it does also provide air sealing. 2 for 1. but up front cost is high. I had my man cave spray foamed (both the garage/workshop and the living space above) and it cost $11,500 for spray foam R-30 for the walls and underside of the roof.
Ive seen cellulose being superior because it doesn't burn, allow mold to grow or have as much convection currents as fiberglass does. Fiberglsss actually promotes a fire. Cellulose is coated in borate which inhibits pests, mold and fire. You cant even set it on fire with a blow torch. Where i live up north, Canada, cellulose is used in my attic and is 60 years old. No mold despite roof leaks. And cellulose drys out and refluffs itself, fiberglass doesn't. My basement fiberglass batts were covered in mold. So whats better?
Great question. So far, it seems a personal preference by homeowners and contractors. Each has pros and cons. Thanks for sharing your experience and watching.
Wheatonna - Rodent-resistant rockwool insulation is mainly known by word of mouth and has not received any negative feedback from numerous cottage country customers. A good practice is to protect the insulation if a certain pest type is a nuisance in your area. Cellulose insulation is made from recycled, ground-up paper. The product contains boric acid to control and keep out insects. The material is also fire-resistant. Thanks for watching and have a happy & blessed weekend.
remember w cellulose,you'll be eliminating the chances of making a quick access to the ceiling below( like..if u want to add a ceiling fan or something) and man what a mess.. i hate it.. I thought it would be good because it was cheap..but i went to putting an eps down then roxul on top.. much neater look too ..esp if i have a roof leak i can at least look..
Why would you remove the plywood? Why wouldn't you just blow in insulation or roll additional batts over the plywood? The plywood will help air seal (if you remove it, air seal, and put it back) and give you a walk area up in the attic if you didn't insult every last spot. It will also make installing additional batts or blown in insulation easier and safer since you can't fall through the ceiling.
If you already have insulation under the plywood you don't need to remove it. You could definitely blow in insulation on top of the plywood if you already have some under it and just wanted to add more, but you would lose your storage space. We talk a little more about keeping the plywood walk ways in the attic and blowing in insulation in this video: ua-cam.com/video/pvdvqvC01Pc/v-deo.html
@@CrawlSpaceNinja Thanks for the response CSN. And yeah I'm going to do something like that with the attic above my garage. The house was built in 2011 and the insulation in the attic above the house is sufficient best I can tell, but there's zero insulation above the garage and I like to work out there. It's boiling in Summer and cold in Winter. So I'm going to put down some fiberglass batts, plywood over the top of it, then blow in cellulose on top of the plywood. All DIY. Oh and I'm air sealing the garage attic too. Already got the lights (non-recessed) and wires for the garage door and ceiling outlet. Just got to do the top plates and space in between drywall sheets now. When I say plywood I'm using plywood and OSB as synonymous. I just buy whichever is cheaper 3/4 material when I make trips to the big box store. I'm definitely going to protect the walk area/storage area with scrap plywood or foam board like you have in the other video, but unfortunately I can't use my attic for storage (2x4 trusses, 24 inches on center), so I'm just building my walk area (no storage) from the attic hatch to the garage. Just so I can get up there and inspect the roof once or twice a year. I'd beef up my attic to 2x10 or 2x12 and use it for storage if I planned to stay here forever but I'm probably moving to Germany in ~5 years. I'll definitely make sure the attic over there is beefed up enough for storage.
@@dupeaccount1647 moving to Germany sounds like a great idea. More of an intelligent culture, smarter governing, and great food. Even just the normal corner bakery is good enough. I toured all over Germany as a working musician and loved it. Sure they have problems with fanatical idiots rising up and gaining strength (nothing learned from 1945 era by some folks), but you can live a good life there, I’ve always wanted to go back and spend some time
I'm not sure all attic professionals air seal, but you could definitely contact them about proper ventilation. You may need to contact your roofing company about any leaks.
@@rhythmfield Hi Greg, here is a video we did talking about air sealing your attic and why we believe it is important. Hope this helps! ua-cam.com/video/pMaEryXCsl0/v-deo.html
We like to use spray foam to air seal penetrations in attic floor. Radiant barriers are good at addressing radiation heat. I don't think I've used attic foil brand but if reviews are good, it should work.
Why WHY would you suggest to take out a whole house fan??? Simply cover it in the winter ! Whole house fans help tremendously for reducing heat in the house during summer ( less AC use)
I cleaned woodchip insulation from my 40yo attic, then spray foamed the whole attic floor, then on rafters added rigid 2inch foam insulation has baffles and Reflective Foil Double Bubble Foil Insulation to the whole attic ceiling to keep cold air out on winter and reflect heat on summer, now I decided to go with 16inch blown insulation (on top of the 1 inch flash of foam), but will keep the center walkable part of the attic with rigid foam so we can put storage rom there. Big job, specially working on those corners customizing every foam for every rafter as a baffle sucked.
Thanks for sharing and watching
Excellent information! I've watched 50+ attic videos. You do a great job explaining the essentials, cutting through the crap and telling it straight! Good job!
Thanks for watching!
Appreciate the info but just some constructive criticism on your video, it's hard to follow what you're saying without images embedded when you're mentioning an item (ex: show a baffle pop up next to you when you bring it up in your discussion and so on. Show images of what you mean of a good install vs poor install of whatever you said.
Google it and come back to video
This was helpful to me as I’ve been researching through many videos and forums but I have to agree. If I came in fresh a few pics/diagrams would improve this video greatly.
Always check the Entire attic if you hire someone to do the insulation for you. We decided to add a attic door in our garage and found that 1/3 of our attic had zero insulation. It was cleaned up but the other area of house had the shredded insulation obstruct the view of this area so we just discovered it! It was an expensive job and years had passes! Kept wondering why house temp was never quite right. 😅
Thanks for your story!
Thanks for the tips. You mention taking up the plywood if used for storage. Could you put down some sheets of 2" rigid insulation (R10) first then lay down plywood? Seems to me like this would help keep the warm air from the house from going up towards the attic and visa-versa.
For input on that feel free to submit a Ask a Ninja form here - crawlspaceninja.com/ask-a-ninja/
Michael, I have watched many of your videos, I really enjoy them and they are very helpful with my home projects.
I will be tackling my attic either this spring or fall when temps are in the 50's or 60's. This particular video is going to be a guide for me to do the best job I can! My heating bills are horrible, the attic is a disaster with no air sealing, old attic fan, and little insulation. Also much of it has flooring, which now I will be removing.
Thanks so much for sharing your expertise and helping folks like me!
By the way, I'm in Cincinnati, I'll let you know how it goes.
Glad our video can help!
If its a lot of flooring i would just leave it there and add rolled insulation over the top of it. Plywood or OSB has a r-value and ripping it up isn’t doing you any good but causing more effort for nothing. If you add rolled insulation over the top and you need to get to an area of your attic to work on something you can just simply roll up the insulation and set it aside while you work and once your done working just roll it back out. If you blow insulation over the top of it you’ll be temped to walk on it and flatten the blown in insulation. I would do a combination of both. Blow in insulation where you wont ever need to walk and add rolled insulation over your walkway. You can add 1 inch foam insulation 12” tall to the sides of your walkway to add a barrier between the walkway and everything else to keep the blown in insulation separate from the walkway.
Agreed. Whole house fans are a real advantage in the summer build a cover to cover it in the winter. The wood for up there before it was all covered so ya Gina chop it into small pieces? You can even raise the floor up 12-18” and insulate underneath and still keep Valuable storage areas useful. Less is sometimes more
Hope it's help8ng & it went well!
“Walking around in hoodies”🤣
Yep, that once was me!!🤣
Hi there I have a cellulose blown air attic. Its still good, not wet etc its just shrunken and with lots of folks in the attic over time and installs of bathroom fans and an attic heat pump its settled and clearly needs some TLC. I dont want to do rent and do blown fibreglass itchy as hell and in general not a big fan. Its harder to find rental blown cellulose where I am plus I heard its really dusty and not always easy. My latest thought is perhaps just buy lots of bags of ROCKWALL insulation as we used that in a basement reno and it seems pretty decent to work with. Suggestions tips welcome.
Hey! For tips feel free to submit a Ask a Ninja Form and we can see what we can help with! - crawlspaceninja.com/ask-a-ninja/
I'm in Massachusetts. I have a 1-story ranch and emptied my attic of all the storage my parents had up there. But noticed the house has been so cold during the winter. Finally realized the insulation in the attic wasn't really sufficient. We have had some mice in the house - not sure if in the attic but I imagine so. We def have some openings that need to be sealed. Should I "expect" an insulation company will do that (I'd expect to pay for the additional work) or do I need to call someone else to seal any areas - wasn't sure if air sealing is the same as sealing areas where mice might get in. Thank you!
Great info - thank you! will make my project easier. I have a question, though: is a baffle required between each truss or just those that have vents at the bottom of them.
For expert information like that please submit a Ask a Ninja Form - crawlspaceninja.com/ask-a-ninja/
This video is more suited to the south. Here in the midwest, some of these things don't apply or are done differently. Most of our Heating and HVAC are located in basement. I do appreciate the confirmation bias you helped me out with. Trying to convince the wife to suck out ALLL the old cellulose and OG R-7 foil backed rolled ins and NOT blow NEW on top. I think I may have. Not looking forward to that part... as no one in my area rents attic vacs.
Yes we are mainly here in the southeast! However I wish you luck with everything! As we grow out we would love to see all sides of America's basements and crawl spaces!
I wish you were in Albuquerque NM. There are a lot of companies here that don't check for what you said or start with expensive fixes rather than adding a simple damper, checking seals, etc. I get the feeling that professionalism here means a bigger bill.
I'm at whit's end with them and spend my time watching video after video about ductwork and insulation, trying to learn how to do it myself.
We would love to assist you! We do have a DIY Store that sells and ships everything we use! Check it out here - diy.crawlspaceninja.com/
I've been doing lots or research into this before I insulate and your video is great, covers the whole package.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks so much for watching.
I was a professional insulator for many many years. I did not read any of the articles or watch any of the, videos I just saw the headline. The most important thing is ventilation you can blow it as deep as you want or put in blanket insulation as deep as you want but the most important thing is ventilation that's all
Can anyone expand on this for me? Doing a insulation project for the first time in the attic in a few weeks
@@ChunkyChancho I know this is two years later, but seems like they’re referring to attic ventilation to release the hot air, for example. So that it can escape and allow cool air in, rather than stay pent up radiating through the ceiling of your home.
The cellulose has boric acid in it and critters hate the smell. Harmless to people and the family pets. I was a insulator in Colorado and Maine. I've insulated everything from cars to homes, both new and old.
Thanks for the info!
You’ve insulated cars?? Why/how?
Ive lived in 3 homes with blown insulation all less than 20 years old..and the dust that gets in the home is horrible for an allergy sufferer like myself..get the foam or batt..that blow stuff is terrible for your health..mark my words..there will be lawsuits in the near future..very unhealthy for people.
great video you covered all of the basics and Saved me time and money! I'm a DIY Type of guy! I work at the largest Building supply/lumber yard in my Area! so I can get anything at cost+10%!!Thank You Sir!! subscribed!!
So glad to hear you found this video helpful! Thank you for your support and good luck on your project!
Thank you Michael for sharing this video, I built a 32x32 detached garage behind my home several years ago that has an upstairs room I would like to heat in the wintertime here in Michigan. The building has insulation in the walls with baffles at the ridges to allow air to flow. The ceiling between the lower and upper floors are insulated and the roof has a ridge vent as well. There is no insulation between the roof and trusses on the inside upstairs. What kind of insulation would I use to insulate the roof as to not have a mold problem? do I need to have a space between the insulation and the roof to have airflow? or can I just insulate against the rafters or roof panels? Thank you for your help in advance.
That would depend on your local code!
I'm starting a re-wire, and the first step is to remove the old insulation, white fiberglas. This 1938 house doesn't have drywall, it's 3/4" tongue-and-groove hardwood everywhere with a wallpaper finish (with a thin cardboard backer). The attic hatch is about 2" square, and opens atop one of the upstairs bedrooms.
Originally that space above that bedroom was "it," with no intended access to the rest of the attic space ... a slanted wall up in there prevented it. Not sure why they even bothered to make the hatch opening, since getting up there to store only small boxes seems like a lot of effort for such little storage?? Anyway, a year ago the previous homeowner had someone install HVAC for the 2nd floor. They cut a passageway out of that wall in the attic to fit the air handler and ductwork through.
Now I have a way to crawl into the rest (I hope) of the attic space. It's gonna take a lot of trash bags to remove the old insulation, which is all dirty and mottled from when the roof leaked. I'll have to use batts. I hate working with fiberglas, so might consider some of the rest. I used mineral wool batts in the basement of another house because moisture won't ruin it and it won't burn.
Thank you for sharing.
Michael another GREAT video with so much useful information. Thank you so much.
Glad we can help!
Thanks great infor I did add some batt blanket in our attic but a Bi-level lower pitch plus limit access around A/C unit with pipes & large ducts. It's too much work i did 2 house myself but I had excellent access.
Great job!!! Thank you.
Rockwool resists heat up to 1800°F as opposed to fiberglass that only resists heat up to 450°.
Attic power vents are very nice to have. New insulation is fire resistant. Not a big problem if some is touching the exhaust vent. If its B vent/double wall it's not a problem. It's just good practice for nothing to touch it.
Man, that whole house fan works GREAT on spring time days! I wasn't sure about removing it. Now I know, I have been meaning to ask you this. Thanks
Also, My home was built in 74' I do NOT have soffit ventilation, I recently had the roof done and they removed the ...uh whirly vents (didn't know what to call them) and added a ridge vent. Is this an issue?
@@tsadkiel2008 Your ventilation system should work together. Soffit vents work with ridge vents. The whirly birds work when you have another intake vent, like cross-gable vents.
Dont remove your fan... It can be covered in the winter... I love my fan!
Getting ready to air seal the attic here in S. Tx adding blown in fiberglass, we live in a nightmare of a home! I have a hip roof design, that has slant roof louvers, plus what looks like ridge vents on the eave, some seem to be dummies and some, most, have been spray painted over, kind of sealing them, how do I fix this, just replace them all, and if so, the attic has zero baffles over these eave vents, would I need to install the baffles all around the perimeter? Are the roof louvers enough for attic venting in itself. We also have a chimney.. how do I go about insulating or creating a barrier when blowing in fiberglass.. Currently there is zero insulation around the chimney in the attic. Please help!
Hey! So we can explain in greater detail feel free to submit this Ask a Ninja Form - crawlspaceninja.com/crawl-space-help-faq/
Awesome information, love your vids. Is there a code in Tennessee that a residential property has to have insulation on the attic ceiling?
2 QUESTIONS: When air sealing your attic space do you cover ceiling fan / regular lighting fixtures with anything before insulating as you do with can lights?
Do you have a video just on air sealing?
Yes! We use can light covers (here's a video about them: ua-cam.com/video/2mvqtm1CU_E/v-deo.html ) it's a good idea to cover any exposed electrical unit that could get hot and needs to be kept away from insulation. And here are some videos showing/talking more about air sealing ua-cam.com/video/pMaEryXCsl0/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/GuC1O-tmMuM/v-deo.html
Crawl Space Ninja thank you!
@@DarinWheeler1967 Don't do anything special with normal electrical junction boxes, but do cover recessed can lights that could get hot as @Crawl Space Ninja said.
I've seen a lot of videos where contractors are using spray foam around electrical boxes. It's not a code violation to do that for air sealing, but do remember that spray foam is very combustible. A fire stop caulk like 3M CP25 WB+ is a safer choice for sealing between ceiling boxes and the drywall.
Great informative video! Getting ready to air seal my 900ft attic and add additional blow in fiberglass. I’m in Charlotte and trying to decide between r38 or r49. Knowing code for new builds is 38, is it worth it to go up to 49 in our region ($200 extra). Thanks!
Yes it is.
What if your attic is a walk up attic. It's like another room/floor. My attic is 7 feet tall at the peak in the middle.. Do you insulate under the roof? Or do you still insulate under the floor?
I have the same question
Insulation's ultimate goal, aside from energy efficiency, is to keep rooms comfortable year-round. Therefore, we insulate the attic floor to ensure maximum comfort in the living areas. We would risk heat gain and loss from adjacent rooms below and the attic space if we insulated the underside of a pitched roof. When comparing attic floor insulation to roof insulation, there is no contest. Floors always win. An unfinished attic space should be insulated from the ground up. When families decide to convert an unfinished attic space into something usable or livable, this rule does not apply.
Thank you and Happy Easter!
Same to you!
Thank you for the information, Michael. You the man!
I have sprayed under-my roof deck with open cell, but my house still get very hot in the summer time, i have been considering spraying the top ceiling Joist too... would I need to ventilate my attic too? Or is this something you recommend? This is an unfinished attic
I dont have central air, I have mini ductless units in my house
I would check codes but if you are not conditioning the attic, I think ventilating would help. Tanks for watching.
Very helpful info. Appreciate the work and research. Love from Cali
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the great info! Super thorough and professional!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks so much for watching.
Good informative video , Thk you
Glad it was helpful!
Should gable vents + ridge vent be replaced with a soffit vent + ridge vent before insulation of attic?
Would you recommend foam insulation on the roof?
Excellent! Very good tips!! One question, how concerned do I need to be about adding additional insulation around recessed lightning fixtures?
Get the rockwool can light covers. Fit them over and seal with can foam
Amazon. Rockwool light covers
Would it be a good idea to add batt insulation & then plywood on top (for storage) & then add some more batt insulation over the plywood? This way you can have insulation plus storage
We have seen that done before
BASEMENT NINJA! HOLY GUACAMOLE BATMAN.... great vid and info.
Thanks!
I'm in central Texas. My home was built in 74. It's 2000 sq ft. It has no soffit vents at all. Just gable vents. I installed a new roof and now have ridge vents. Should I install multiple soffit vents and seal off my gable vents? Would foil board be beneficial to out foam foil board on my gables or insulation batting or both? The house has 4 gables and only 2 are vented.
Have you looked into a solar attic fan?
@@CrawlSpaceNinja no I haven’t
Great info thank you!
Thank you.
Hi Michael, do you think it's okay to remove the old blown in insulation and replace with foam insulation? My house is about 90 years old. It has a flat roof. I was quoted around $2,000 to foam insulate the floor part of the crawl space. They also quoted $3 per square foot to remove the old insulation. Thank you in advance!
Yes! Also check out our DIY Store for insulation products that we use! diy.crawlspaceninja.com/insulation/
OMG, watching this guy is like listening to Rodger from American Dad!
😂
Question:
I have two additions on my house and there isn't any ceiling ventilation that I've noticed nor an attic. Can I put paper batt insulation under the roof decking?
What about flat roofs? (What do I type to find info on this?)
What about rigid foam dropped btwn each ceiling joist with spray around each?
1890's brick duplex with a flat roof near Albany NY...
Great info. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the information!
I’m in NY and had attic blown in insulation installed flooring 1.5 years ago almost 2 feet high and for two weeks I hear gnawing scratching hours at my bedroom vent and unable to access with all fiberglass insulation and I’m highly concerned that the plastic tubing ductwork going to my vent is being gnawed on and the mice are urinating and dropping feces that will cause toxic air leaking from vents !! I have contacted several useless pest control companies who won’t walk on insulation and I can’t access attic as broke hands. Critical anyone doing this to provide total exclusion as you say and if you would be able to advise me I would be very grateful I’m alone in the house
Have you contacted any reputable insulation contractors to do an assessment? Sorry I am not sure what to recommend without seeing it.
@@CrawlSpaceNinja Thanks for responding ! I contacted a couple of insulation contractors and will follow up with them. I signed with pest control company who was at house yesterday and placed sensors notifying business of time day mouse activity and they placed baiting stations (2) so will see what happens. Hopefully sleep will resume in a day …. Wishing you happy holidays !
My old ceiling insualtion looks thin . Does it shrink over time ?? Maybe less than two inches ..daaannnggg
Yep. Good vid! Thanks.
Mike, thanks for the great videos
I'm looking at removing old insulation before starting on new.. Our house was built in 1946 and it has a mixture of old loose insulation. I was warned about old loose insulation that contained asbestos. Any advice here?
If you are removing asbestos you need to be well protected and have good respiration. Good luck.
My new place is from 1955 and has old loose fiberglass all over the attic… Was there ever any concern about fiberglass mixed with asbestos? Well that would be a game changer/worrisome if that were the case…
I want to insulate to gable ends in the attic with Rockwool R-22 insulation. There are no vertical studs except the flat studs of the roof truss. also the are a lot of framing & siding nails which can't be cut to put new 2X6 studs. I live in Wilmington, NC & my attic get get up to around 120 degrees in the summer time & about 30 degrees in the winter. My question is: can I use a little construction adhesive to help hold the insulation in place?
I do not think it will hold long term. That's a lot of heat and adhesives do have limits. Make sure you check label.
Excellent. Very helpful. Thanks. God bless.
I really need to have some sort of storage in the attic. Its not a lot by any means but like you said its literally boxed holiday decorations. Is there any issues with building up a small shelf above the floor joists to store things on while still maintaining the needed R value underneath?
It should be safe to add loads to a truss that are small compared to the weight of the truss itself (such as an attic light fixture), but adding loads beyond that could pose a threat. A truss member will be stressed proportionally to its length and thickness when a load is applied in the middle of it. Every pound of loading to the middle of a truss may increase the stress on some parts of the board by more than twenty pounds if it has an 8' long 2x4 board without anything attached to the middle. Trusses can be designed to withstand interior loads, but such trusses would be more expensive than those not designed for the purpose.
I have a cape with a good sized attic space and I want to make the space conditioned air so to do that I need to insulate the walls & roof. Can you give me any info on how to best do that?
Do you have a video about how to insulate around a chimney chase?
We do not. You will most likely need an insulation that is heat resistant. I would check with your local codes department to see what they require for it.
@@CrawlSpaceNinja Thank you!
So, I have a finished room above garage but there is walking space on each side of the FROG walls. Shouldn’t there be insulation on those walls to prevent attic heat from super heating the FRoG causing the AC to come on all the time?
I have questions
I removed the old insulation of the attic that was the original when it was built 50 years ago. I bought an R 30 unface but I was told that it is not the right insulation for the attic. That it needs to be face insulation for the attic. Does it really matter if it unface. I live in New Orleans.
It does matter! Feel free to submit a Ask a Ninja form so we may go more in detail! - crawlspaceninja.com/crawl-space-help-faq/
Well said. ✞ May days be blessed as well ✞
Thank you!
I have 2 x 4 framing in the attic. Should I still use a thick R38 up there even though the space directly above the framing will be empty?
Based on the information you've given, if your local building code requires R38, then we'd definitely recommend using that.
What you could do is do it in two layers. The first layer lay with the framing. The second layer, lay perpendicular to the first. That way, you cover the areas above the framing.
@@thezfunk that’s exactly what I did. I went overkill with opening up my soffits, using silver board as baffles, placing Kraft faced r 13 in the bays along the deck then put unfaced r 38 at 90 degrees from the r13. I also have 3 thermostatically controlled gable fans.
Tennessee is still doing this!
Thanks for the comment!
The problem with insulation companies is most are only interested in getting the job and they don't put in insulation stops in new homes they say it's the framers job and the framer says it's the insulation companies job so it's not done I worked for a builder I came in after the insulation company had put on the vapor barrier so the drywaller could put up the drywall the next day when I got their I looked up and no insulation stops so I phoned the boss 5 hrs later we had gotten nowhere the insulter said it was the framers job and the framer said it was the insulaters job so I had to run to the lumber yard and get the dams and install them and put the vapor barrier back up the drywaller came in the morning and put the drywall all on and 2 days later the insulation company came and blew in the fiberglass insulation it's surprising how many people will try to use fiberglass insulation to stop an air leak also ever taken fiberglass bats out of a wall you can see where every air leak was and it's path from outside to inside come summer I will be doing extensive upgrades to my house part of it has no insulation in the roof or the walls since the roof on that addition was built in such a way as sealing it water tight the drywall has rotted out in some of the walls and part of the roof so I'll fir out the walls to 2 x6 with styrofoam insulation put R 20 insulation in the walls will put a roof over the roof so I can attach it water tight to the original house when I do I'll put a layer of R 12 and a layer of R 20and with the R 12 in the old roof it'll give me a minimum of R 44 so in these 2 old additions I'll have almost no thermal bridging in the old part of the house I'll pull the old vermiculite insulation in from the edges and put vapor barrier on and blow in cellulose insulation about R30 added to what's there will give me R 40 since I have that bubble insulation they use under radiant concrete floors it should make the old place quite cozy next winter especially if I put plastic on all the windows I'd like to replace them but to do that I need a permit and then I have to bring the whole house up to the new code and to do so you might as well tear it down and start over
That’s the most awesome UA-cam comment I’ve ever seen. Best of luck with your home!
I have an old house and I have attic floor can I put plastic film on the floor and put insulation Batts on top of the plastic I have insulation. Between floor and ceiling I'm not going to tear the flooring out to much work
Insulation first then Vapor Barrier!
To insulate the attic floor can foam boards be used over blown in insulation???
This is exactly what I needed. Thanks
Glad it helped!
Hi, I live in Toronto Canada where are weather is extreme, during winter time is extremely cold and the opposite during the summer, can I install radiant barrier and blow cellulose in the attic? due to the mix climate. Thanks
As heat travels through the attic insulation, it switches from radiant heat to conductive heat. Hence, both types of insulation are necessary. Radiant barriers and traditional attic insulation complement each other.
What about all these the dumb can lights with big housings for the last many decades prior to LED... how much leakage there?
From an air-leakage perspective, recessed light fixtures are one of the biggest openings in a house. The average CFM50 per fixture for can lights was 9.1, or 0.15 to 0.31 ACH50. You can see right through conventional recessed cans due to their leakiness.
What type of rockwool can you blow in? I've only seen it in batts.
Living in Washington state.. we heat and cool. Would using foam board insulation between the joists and sealing with can foam before blowing in insulation be a good idea? Or would that end up being too tight and cause moisture issues? Any advice would be great!
Dan - Foam cut into narrow rectangles and inserted between joists does not perform as well as a continuous layer of rigid foam on the exterior. Performing air sealing work at the perimeter of the floor (the rim joists areas) is the first step. Whether or not you fill the joists with fluffy insulation (mineral wool, fiberglass, or cellulose), this is an absolute necessity. Fill the joist bays with fluffy insulation as an optional step two. Using this method, you want batts that fill the joist bays completely (or use blow-in insulation). Under the joists, apply a continuous layer of rigid foam. High-quality tape should be used to seal the seams of rigid foam to ensure airtightness. To protect the rigid foam from creatures, layer it with OSB or plywood. Let us know if you have any other questions. We appreciate you watching and hope you have a happy and blessed day.
Would you put a attic fan in a new house are one at the gabble end
Good information.
I have a finished attic in the northeast that I want to beef up the insulation. Should I go with cellulose or stay with fiberglass?
Here is a video we did comparing the two that may help you make a decision: ua-cam.com/video/_yFliQC552I/v-deo.html
“Take out the storage”.
I’m only in this rabbit hole to figure out how to keep my attic cool enough to store things there more safely.
Michael Church can provide a step by step guide on how to tackle your attic specifically! First feel free to submit a Ask a Ninja Form - crawlspaceninja.com/ask-a-ninja/
Is rigid foam better than fiberglass insulation in the attic?
Rigid Foam Board is what we normally use other than Fiberglass!
@@CrawlSpaceNinja Thanks. And what thickness do you use, 1 or 2 inches? And where do you buy it?
Thank you for making this! very helpful :)
Glad it was helpful!
Do you have an opinion of passive roof turbine vents? E.g., Lomanco Whirlybirds?
MWNGW - It is possible to move a lot of air through turbine vents in a short period of time. The roof will also require fewer turbine vents than 12-14 vents, which reduces leakage risks. On large gable roofs with little area at the peak, turbine vents are the best option. Thanks for watching and we hope you have a happy and blessed day.
@@CrawlSpaceNinja ...thanks for your feedback. Much appreciated. Blessings and good lab results.
The whole house fans is one of the best ways to cool your home in the summer literally in minutes. How about you build an insulated cover so you’re not removing something so beneficial?
They do make insulated covers for attic fans. You can find them usually at Lowes or Home Depot. Keeping the attic fan vent covered will save you energy and prevent ice dams. You may prefer to keep your attic vents open in summer, but you'll almost certainly want them closed in winter. No matter if you have an attic fan with a ridge vent or not, this is true.
Hi. I've gone through countless videos about this topic. However I can't find an appropriate one for my friends in Indonisia. I'm looking for a dirt cheap kind of roof insulation for dirt poor people. They always have around 40 degrees Celsius in the house. And they have monsoon rain of course that causes very high air humidity.
Does anybody know a insulation that can be done with material that they have on hand anyway - like clay or whatever.
Sadly we don't service those parts of the world just yet. We recommend finding a local company!
Great advice! Thank you.
Nice video ,thks
Thank you so much!
Dude, you rule!!!
Thanks!! Thanks so much for watching.
Thanks for the info. God bless
Any time
What about open cell spray foam?
Is it okay to spray foam ur entire attic?
Open cell is not something I am real familiar with other than it tends to cost less and has the ability to allow moisture to enter. I have seen people install in the entire attic though.
Crawl Space Ninja
Thank you for ur quick reply and ur advice..
Yes, open cell foam is an excellent insulation but it costs a lot. In addition to R-value it does also provide air sealing. 2 for 1. but up front cost is high. I had my man cave spray foamed (both the garage/workshop and the living space above) and it cost $11,500 for spray foam R-30 for the walls and underside of the roof.
Ive seen cellulose being superior because it doesn't burn, allow mold to grow or have as much convection currents as fiberglass does. Fiberglsss actually promotes a fire. Cellulose is coated in borate which inhibits pests, mold and fire. You cant even set it on fire with a blow torch. Where i live up north, Canada, cellulose is used in my attic and is 60 years old. No mold despite roof leaks. And cellulose drys out and refluffs itself, fiberglass doesn't. My basement fiberglass batts were covered in mold. So whats better?
Great question. So far, it seems a personal preference by homeowners and contractors. Each has pros and cons. Thanks for sharing your experience and watching.
How can you correct this issue on the back end 😔?
6:27. I'm confused. Rock wool is treated against pests, or cellulose is? Pest control companies tend to use rock wool, or cellulose?
Wheatonna - Rodent-resistant rockwool insulation is mainly known by word of mouth and has not received any negative feedback from numerous cottage country customers. A good practice is to protect the insulation if a certain pest type is a nuisance in your area. Cellulose insulation is made from recycled, ground-up paper. The product contains boric acid to control and keep out insects. The material is also fire-resistant. Thanks for watching and have a happy & blessed weekend.
In an attic if you're blowing walls it's okay because walls are completely sealed usually
Thx .. Very helpful
How to insulate the fire place
Great question, I don't have any experience in that unfortunately.
was kinda hoping for more of a demonstration than an explanation.
Check out our attic series! You may find more of what you're looking for there: ua-cam.com/play/PLxsYiAum9ovz95G4PMLgpRxQMvwOrFhde.html
remember w cellulose,you'll be eliminating the chances of making a quick access to the ceiling below( like..if u want to add a ceiling fan or something) and man what a mess.. i hate it..
I thought it would be good because it was cheap..but i went to putting an eps down then roxul on top.. much neater look too ..esp if i have a roof leak i can at least look..
Amazing! Thx
Glad you like it!
Lol, living in zone 6 with 20+ inch insulation above me and reading people with a few inches. Wow
Dude I’m literally in Ontario, Canada and just found out that my house has probably 4-6inches insulation in the attic.
Why would you remove the plywood? Why wouldn't you just blow in insulation or roll additional batts over the plywood? The plywood will help air seal (if you remove it, air seal, and put it back) and give you a walk area up in the attic if you didn't insult every last spot. It will also make installing additional batts or blown in insulation easier and safer since you can't fall through the ceiling.
If you already have insulation under the plywood you don't need to remove it. You could definitely blow in insulation on top of the plywood if you already have some under it and just wanted to add more, but you would lose your storage space. We talk a little more about keeping the plywood walk ways in the attic and blowing in insulation in this video: ua-cam.com/video/pvdvqvC01Pc/v-deo.html
@@CrawlSpaceNinja Thanks for the response CSN. And yeah I'm going to do something like that with the attic above my garage. The house was built in 2011 and the insulation in the attic above the house is sufficient best I can tell, but there's zero insulation above the garage and I like to work out there. It's boiling in Summer and cold in Winter. So I'm going to put down some fiberglass batts, plywood over the top of it, then blow in cellulose on top of the plywood. All DIY. Oh and I'm air sealing the garage attic too. Already got the lights (non-recessed) and wires for the garage door and ceiling outlet. Just got to do the top plates and space in between drywall sheets now.
When I say plywood I'm using plywood and OSB as synonymous. I just buy whichever is cheaper 3/4 material when I make trips to the big box store.
I'm definitely going to protect the walk area/storage area with scrap plywood or foam board like you have in the other video, but unfortunately I can't use my attic for storage (2x4 trusses, 24 inches on center), so I'm just building my walk area (no storage) from the attic hatch to the garage. Just so I can get up there and inspect the roof once or twice a year.
I'd beef up my attic to 2x10 or 2x12 and use it for storage if I planned to stay here forever but I'm probably moving to Germany in ~5 years. I'll definitely make sure the attic over there is beefed up enough for storage.
@@dupeaccount1647 Sounds like a good plan!
@@dupeaccount1647 moving to Germany sounds like a great idea. More of an intelligent culture, smarter governing, and great food. Even just the normal corner bakery is good enough. I toured all over Germany as a working musician and loved it. Sure they have problems with fanatical idiots rising up and gaining strength (nothing learned from 1945 era by some folks), but you can live a good life there, I’ve always wanted to go back and spend some time
Who would you contact to air seal your attic, make sure you have proper ventilation, and make sure you have no roof leaks before insulation?
I'm not sure all attic professionals air seal, but you could definitely contact them about proper ventilation. You may need to contact your roofing company about any leaks.
What is air seal? A specific process? Why would one do that ? Thanks.
@@rhythmfield Hi Greg, here is a video we did talking about air sealing your attic and why we believe it is important. Hope this helps! ua-cam.com/video/pMaEryXCsl0/v-deo.html
Which spray foam should we use for air sealing the attic?
closed cell is best, but flammable
What do you recommend air sealing with and what's your thoughts on Attic Foil?
We like to use spray foam to air seal penetrations in attic floor. Radiant barriers are good at addressing radiation heat. I don't think I've used attic foil brand but if reviews are good, it should work.
where are you located?
Hey Gale Cox, Our Corporate is in Knoxville, TN. To see all of our locations please visit crawlspaceninja.com/service-area/
Why WHY would you suggest to take out a whole house fan??? Simply cover it in the winter ! Whole house fans help tremendously for reducing heat in the house during summer ( less AC use)