I would love to see a video of you talking about how you did it all and if any custom fab was needed. I'm thinking I'll go with a bottom mount turbo manifold. I'm not looking for crazy power, maybe just 5 psi
FlyHacking I’ll make a couple more videos just like this one. The only fabrication that I had a hand in was the exhaust. And I’m no welder ha! And was using a crappy cheap welder so splatter and bad welds happened. Other than the exhaust the radiator needed some fitment mods but nothing crazy just cut this tab bend this tab kinda thing. 5psi is definitely something to get. You can run up to 8psi on a stock head gasket and bolts just fine. But highly recommend studs regardless.
FlyHacking I did have to cut a tab down from the trans bell housing to clear my down pipe because I’m not a fabricator and was shooting from the hip on this build since there’s not a lot of visual aide on building a bottom mount kit. Plenty of showy top mount. Plus a gt30 would best suit the 5-8psi range where the gt35 its just tickling the turbo.
@@Crzylexusdrvr thanks for the info. I'm gonna get whatever's cheap but has good reviews because I feel like higher boost brings up hidden issues while low boost keeps it in the safe zone
FlyHacking the one issue that definitely needs to be addressed is the oil pump nut, it is reverse threaded and backs off at high rpms. They make a safety nut that wire ties onto. And some have welded it on. And the more hp ran, both have sheared off completely. And this is a must do even for NA builds. On my insta mrbimmerdude I posted a few photos, one you see a tubular style manifold.. don’t use it, then you see a wrapped cast iron one that one had the best flow and design for under 100$. But my most current post in a log style which is good for low boost but I’ll be testing it out on how great it is here soon.
@@Crzylexusdrvr I recently did my oil pan gasket and the oil pump was still on there solid even though I hit redline a lot. I have a M54B25 so it isn't as bad due to the different harmonic damper but I'll still reinforce it as I did by the drilled nut from bimmerworld. I just placed the order for the manifold. Now I'm curious what you did for intercooler piping. Did you buy a universal kit?
Badboyjuni honestly if you’re gonna Ls swap it I would just start buying parts for that, it’ll get way more expensive than this build unless you’re able to get deals on the mounting hardware and trans and such. Never really looked too far past the motor mounting stuff on that build. But either way it’ll be fun!
Colin Wilcox with their tune you’ll need to send a copy of the original dme/ecu map, and physically send in the computer for bench tuning. And the pigtail for the maf is color coordinated with the stock harness. One black wire will go to a body ground. Once you get the ecu back it’s straight go time. Some instructions come with the parts that tell you to monitor your AFRs. That’s it. Pretty straight forward and turn key system per say
Colin Wilcox I just realized I didn’t mention anything about the pump. It’s stock pump running to the vacuum distribution block, the stock filter has a built in regulator that can handle quite a bit of pressure and pull. Granted you’ll want to upgrade the pump to break 600hp, but the stock pump is perfect for 500 and below. I’ve heard some say they got 600hp out of it but it’s all hearsay. And that’s crank hp not to the tires.
No issues, I won’t say they have a peak point, doing m12 drill and tap (not timeserting) the block will have higher psi strength. Depending on if yours is the m52tu or m52 from the z3 you’ll have to get the proper studs. Both are aluminum but the z3 runs m12. I only have one complaint about raceware nowadays and that’s price, it’s nearly double if not triple what they were and what it cost for a m12 kit and machine work done will be +/- a hundred. If they take it on.
I have the M52tu i was told that Raceware studs is my best option i contacted Raceware sells agent through email he said they do have studs for my block for $300++ for the set but im not sure is i still have to drill and tap like you say. Im refreshing the engine. Im looking to get 350hp to 400hp out my turbo build. This is the first time I build a turbocharged engine is a journey ut im learning alot.
@@rafaelontiveros3428 raceware will drop in and work without any drilling. As long as the block isn’t compromised by overheating(makes the block brittle). Only if you are using m12 studs will you need to drill out the head, gasket and block to accommodate them. You can get away with out studs for the 10-12psi it sounds like you are aiming for. Depending on if you are going e85 or not the stock bolts can hold the same, studs will just give the sense of security. Hopefully you can get it completed and tuned it’s a blast to drive around. So if you need any additional help ask away I’ll give you my best information on the subject
Angel Gutierrez , it’ll all depend on how much boost you wanna shoot for. A fully unopened motor can take up to 12psi before the longevity of the motor is shortened. Stock maf can take up to 8psi, but I believe your injectors will need to be upgraded at the same time. And who your tuner will be. There’s plenty of bits I depict in the video such and motor mount, oil feed, who I used for a tune, etc. I have made a few updates videos with a better visual of what’s in store. There are a few FB group pages that have loads of different interpretations of how to go about turboing these motors. Even sources for parts and how to tune. You can message me on Instagram where I have loads of photos for reference and can help you further along. Or even on the group pages, just search before you get crucified haha the internet’s ruthless.
Nice build! Looking to do the same thing on 328ci, as I see you're using one of these ebay cast iron bottom mount manifolds, right? Is there any chance it would fit without an aftermarket engine mount, or is it a must to change them? From my understanding, you've changed the right side engine mount to a longer one to get more clearance for the turbo?
Rallyroad.net has the mount specific for these manifolds. And is necessary for the turbo to fit. The compressor housing would smash right into the mount otherwise. Hopefully this and or I can help get your project off the ground and in motion! Let me know if there’s any more information you’d like.
@@Crzylexusdrvr Yeah checked that out on various websites, just never thought it could be a problem if there's a bottom mount turbo. I thought top mount would be better, but actually there would be way more hassle moving washer fluid reservoir somewhere, aswell as the ecology stuff which I don't exactly know what is it, between exhaust manifold and washer fluid reservoir. It looks almost like stock from top view on your build, which is amazing
Aleksandr Varlamov, true that on top, a lot of people who do top end up replacing the valve cover to a m56(metal) valve cover because of the heat and don’t want to melt the plastic one that is standard. Some also just get a universal washer bottle and wire it in back by the abs module for clearance. As far as the smog parts I’ve thought of a way to keep it and go top mount. Which would be to get a 5series pump and flip the check valve upside down and see if that makes the room for the turbo. It’s plausible but the plumbing of exhaust becomes the challenge for most, who end up just piping out the fender or hood
Mark Hernandez there’s a FB group called boosted e46 world, join and ask away and I or many others can aide you. But what are you concerned about with your build? I’ll do my best here.
Hey I’m thinking to get a 330ci and turbocharge it but all the bmws I see have more than 100000 miles in it. How does your bmw run, and I would like to know about how much you spend. I saw it has 200k, so I’m curious on how it runs. Thanks
Andy , so I replaced the bearings on the rods, new rings and honed the cylinders. And installed new valves and cam followers. But only with new stock parts. Nothing fancy so it’s still bone stock refreshed motor with a thicker gasket and head studs. It runs so smoothly I did replace the clutch with what I thought was good enough and wasn’t. When searching for a clutch look for the better tq/nm of it. I have what claims 500hp but the tq is weak and just glazed it. Hopwood Motorsport makes a damn good twin disk with fly for 900$(ish). As far as drivability goes the turbo doesn’t spoil till 3k and so makes daily driving not anything different. I’ve driven it 6k + miles since this video and nothing has faulted. Other than tires struggle to hook haha
vsho they are from cipher auto, they are ok but have a lot of give to the back rest which this is the only set out of 3 that I’ve owned from them that do that problem. I’m probably gonna swap them out for a different style for the driver and maybe the passenger. We shall see
REDFORZARACER , sure thing, the only down side is it’s a 8psi max. The auto trans just isn’t strong enough for more, and the excess heat produced will cook the trans. The 5spd have been able to handle upwards of 6-700hp/tq the 6spd about the same. But unfortunately the auto is limited to give or take 350..
@@Crzylexusdrvr 350 to the wheels? thats sucks cos alot of the ones i find in my budget are autos. how much do you reckon a manual swap will cost? thanks dude
REDFORZARACER, I believe it’s more 305-315 whp after the 18-20% Powertrain loss. To swap it you’ll spend pending how you do it anywhere from 1200-3000$ Salvage yards will be your best friend with the trans (here they cost 165$) but pulled yourself. The drive lines are 4-800$ new pending style and brand. A clutch kit if went eBay can be 5-600 but you’ll want to replace the throw out bearing and pilot.. real cheap and make horrible noises. And get Sachs or equal. And if you pull the trans get all the linkage needed. And driveline if it’s still good. The auto diff will make the rpms horribly high when driving. So a lower gearing will be wanted if daily driven. But the auto diff will make more skids and low rpm fun. Then it’s just a matter of tuning the ecu
Wrist Game Icy you feel me, these have become very tunable the past decade. Especially the past 5yrs with more “remote tuners” and self tuners. Plenty of FB groups and forums discussing how to go about tuning these. I however went through a very reputable tuner because I didn’t have enough knowledge on what to do or where to look.
Nice bro this car is sick I’ve been floating around the idea of turboing my 328 but it looks rather complex and expensive. almost pushing 200,00 miles but the engine runs like a dream which is the only thing making me lean towards doing it. Might just save for an m3 rather than put all that money in a 200,000 mile car which could possibly blow up a couple hundred miles after boosting. Sick build tho more people needa boost these.
Wrist Game Icy you feel me, I’d say jump on this and enjoy, the price of an m3 is 3times the amount I put into this. Granted it was a shocker and surprise to get it to work. But I did it for around 3-3.5k tune included. When doing this you’ll just need the head gasket, the turbo manifold, turbo intercooler plumbing. Bov, wastegate oil feed and turbo engine mount. Definitely a stronger clutch if it’s a manual. I mention in another persons comments on the downside of a auto. Other than that once you’ve done those bits and got the tune from rktunes which supplies the tune maf and injectors, many have been going with GEP who is another highly recommended tuner for these. I know I’ll be building another motor soon and hopefully document it better for everyone. I changed so much on my initial design and attempt it was fairly easy to know what I’ll need next time now. And I’m so stoked to be putting round town and freaking people out when it choofs hahaha
Crzylexusdrvr yea I got a 5 speed m52tub28, I heard these clutches were pretty strong but with 200k I’m sure it wouldn’t last long, what head gasket did you use and do you think head studs would be necessary, From what I’ve read these engines can handle light boost pretty good and max I would want is like 15 lbs. The installation looks doable for sure, tuning it seems like a headache but I’m wondering in your personal opinion how you think a 200k stock engine would handle boosting from a reliability standpoint. Obv u can’t make me any promises but how much mileage would you be comfortable with on a stock engine before building the internals and such? Also thanks for the replies and encouragement it means a lot.
Wrist Game Icy you feel me, I mention both in the video, cometic head gasket and raceware headstuds. Both from vac Motorsport. I didn’t boost my car till I hit 200k and replaced the clutch at the same time. With 200k the precautions I would take are new bearing, rod and crank. And cam followers(tappets), new timing guides/tensioners. A head gasket kit can be purchased on amazon for like 80-90$ and the few timing gaskets on the lower end are like 5$ each or so. Use a m52 e36 mls header gasket it has all the holes and that perforated gasket just blows out so the steel gaskets for the exhaust end up being the best. And re ring the pistons while cleaning them up. Basically sums up everything I’ve done apart from the new rod and crank bolts required(not reusable). Many bump up and retap the heads for a thicker m12 head bolt for more boost. I’m only at 14psi which is 450hp plans on going higher with a spare block. And that’s about the limit of a stock block imo. And I’ve slapped on 5-6k miles since which initial first start was in June. And I tend to daily this.
I would love to see a video of you talking about how you did it all and if any custom fab was needed. I'm thinking I'll go with a bottom mount turbo manifold. I'm not looking for crazy power, maybe just 5 psi
FlyHacking I’ll make a couple more videos just like this one. The only fabrication that I had a hand in was the exhaust. And I’m no welder ha! And was using a crappy cheap welder so splatter and bad welds happened. Other than the exhaust the radiator needed some fitment mods but nothing crazy just cut this tab bend this tab kinda thing.
5psi is definitely something to get. You can run up to 8psi on a stock head gasket and bolts just fine. But highly recommend studs regardless.
FlyHacking I did have to cut a tab down from the trans bell housing to clear my down pipe because I’m not a fabricator and was shooting from the hip on this build since there’s not a lot of visual aide on building a bottom mount kit. Plenty of showy top mount. Plus a gt30 would best suit the 5-8psi range where the gt35 its just tickling the turbo.
@@Crzylexusdrvr thanks for the info. I'm gonna get whatever's cheap but has good reviews because I feel like higher boost brings up hidden issues while low boost keeps it in the safe zone
FlyHacking the one issue that definitely needs to be addressed is the oil pump nut, it is reverse threaded and backs off at high rpms. They make a safety nut that wire ties onto. And some have welded it on. And the more hp ran, both have sheared off completely. And this is a must do even for NA builds. On my insta mrbimmerdude I posted a few photos, one you see a tubular style manifold.. don’t use it, then you see a wrapped cast iron one that one had the best flow and design for under 100$. But my most current post in a log style which is good for low boost but I’ll be testing it out on how great it is here soon.
@@Crzylexusdrvr I recently did my oil pan gasket and the oil pump was still on there solid even though I hit redline a lot. I have a M54B25 so it isn't as bad due to the different harmonic damper but I'll still reinforce it as I did by the drilled nut from bimmerworld.
I just placed the order for the manifold. Now I'm curious what you did for intercooler piping. Did you buy a universal kit?
Can’t wait till mine is boosted!
Nice build
Badboyjuni you’ll love it! Definitely a task to tackle and a great experience when completed!
Crzylexusdrvr I’ve had a few turbo cars but never one that I loved like I do my e46. I want to boost it till it blows up and then drop an LS1 in it 😂
Badboyjuni honestly if you’re gonna Ls swap it I would just start buying parts for that, it’ll get way more expensive than this build unless you’re able to get deals on the mounting hardware and trans and such. Never really looked too far past the motor mounting stuff on that build. But either way it’ll be fun!
Crzylexusdrvr I have the engine I need to save up for the t56 😁 I’m not in a rush tho I want to make it a sleeper
Badboyjuni haha those are gonna be some quite mufflers
FUCKIN SICK!!!! I love it
Colin Wilcox, thanks man!
@@Crzylexusdrvr is there any additional tuning with the rktunes ecu? and what did you do about the fuel pump?
Colin Wilcox with their tune you’ll need to send a copy of the original dme/ecu map, and physically send in the computer for bench tuning. And the pigtail for the maf is color coordinated with the stock harness. One black wire will go to a body ground. Once you get the ecu back it’s straight go time. Some instructions come with the parts that tell you to monitor your AFRs. That’s it. Pretty straight forward and turn key system per say
Colin Wilcox I just realized I didn’t mention anything about the pump. It’s stock pump running to the vacuum distribution block, the stock filter has a built in regulator that can handle quite a bit of pressure and pull. Granted you’ll want to upgrade the pump to break 600hp, but the stock pump is perfect for 500 and below. I’ve heard some say they got 600hp out of it but it’s all hearsay. And that’s crank hp not to the tires.
@@Crzylexusdrvr sweet thank you
Upload more about it!
Jose Navarro , what more can I talk about I cover about everything? I’ll be getting more driving clips soon.
sound clip @5:42
G 95 yeah I should have put that in the description...
Did you had any trouble with the Raceware studs? My m52 block is made out of aluminum and i need to get head studs would you recommend Raceware?
No issues, I won’t say they have a peak point, doing m12 drill and tap (not timeserting) the block will have higher psi strength. Depending on if yours is the m52tu or m52 from the z3 you’ll have to get the proper studs. Both are aluminum but the z3 runs m12.
I only have one complaint about raceware nowadays and that’s price, it’s nearly double if not triple what they were and what it cost for a m12 kit and machine work done will be +/- a hundred. If they take it on.
I have the M52tu i was told that Raceware studs is my best option i contacted Raceware sells agent through email he said they do have studs for my block for $300++ for the set but im not sure is i still have to drill and tap like you say. Im refreshing the engine. Im looking to get 350hp to 400hp out my turbo build. This is the first time I build a turbocharged engine is a journey ut im learning alot.
@@rafaelontiveros3428 raceware will drop in and work without any drilling. As long as the block isn’t compromised by overheating(makes the block brittle). Only if you are using m12 studs will you need to drill out the head, gasket and block to accommodate them. You can get away with out studs for the 10-12psi it sounds like you are aiming for. Depending on if you are going e85 or not the stock bolts can hold the same, studs will just give the sense of security. Hopefully you can get it completed and tuned it’s a blast to drive around. So if you need any additional help ask away I’ll give you my best information on the subject
@@Crzylexusdrvr thank you!!🙏🏼 i really appreciate you taking the time to answer my questions im really excited about getting this car done.
What is the things I need before turboing my bmw so I won’t blow up the engine need some tips and help I’m new into moding cars
Angel Gutierrez , it’ll all depend on how much boost you wanna shoot for.
A fully unopened motor can take up to 12psi before the longevity of the motor is shortened. Stock maf can take up to 8psi, but I believe your injectors will need to be upgraded at the same time. And who your tuner will be. There’s plenty of bits I depict in the video such and motor mount, oil feed, who I used for a tune, etc. I have made a few updates videos with a better visual of what’s in store.
There are a few FB group pages that have loads of different interpretations of how to go about turboing these motors. Even sources for parts and how to tune.
You can message me on Instagram where I have loads of photos for reference and can help you further along. Or even on the group pages, just search before you get crucified haha the internet’s ruthless.
Nice build I have a 330ci too I want to know which numbers do you got on the dyno ?
Nice build! Looking to do the same thing on 328ci, as I see you're using one of these ebay cast iron bottom mount manifolds, right? Is there any chance it would fit without an aftermarket engine mount, or is it a must to change them? From my understanding, you've changed the right side engine mount to a longer one to get more clearance for the turbo?
Rallyroad.net has the mount specific for these manifolds. And is necessary for the turbo to fit. The compressor housing would smash right into the mount otherwise.
Hopefully this and or I can help get your project off the ground and in motion! Let me know if there’s any more information you’d like.
@@Crzylexusdrvr Yeah checked that out on various websites, just never thought it could be a problem if there's a bottom mount turbo. I thought top mount would be better, but actually there would be way more hassle moving washer fluid reservoir somewhere, aswell as the ecology stuff which I don't exactly know what is it, between exhaust manifold and washer fluid reservoir. It looks almost like stock from top view on your build, which is amazing
Aleksandr Varlamov, true that on top, a lot of people who do top end up replacing the valve cover to a m56(metal) valve cover because of the heat and don’t want to melt the plastic one that is standard. Some also just get a universal washer bottle and wire it in back by the abs module for clearance. As far as the smog parts I’ve thought of a way to keep it and go top mount. Which would be to get a 5series pump and flip the check valve upside down and see if that makes the room for the turbo. It’s plausible but the plumbing of exhaust becomes the challenge for most, who end up just piping out the fender or hood
Yep, also bottom mount has better turbo cooling in general as the air is flying through the bottom :)
Is there anyway I could contact you would love to do the same build on my 330ci but just want a few details to make sure everything is done correctly
Mark Hernandez there’s a FB group called boosted e46 world, join and ask away and I or many others can aide you. But what are you concerned about with your build? I’ll do my best here.
What wheels?
Still got AC right ?
Cole Bauguess yes I still have functioning air conditioning
Hey I’m thinking to get a 330ci and turbocharge it but all the bmws I see have more than 100000 miles in it. How does your bmw run, and I would like to know about how much you spend. I saw it has 200k, so I’m curious on how it runs. Thanks
Andy , so I replaced the bearings on the rods, new rings and honed the cylinders. And installed new valves and cam followers. But only with new stock parts. Nothing fancy so it’s still bone stock refreshed motor with a thicker gasket and head studs. It runs so smoothly I did replace the clutch with what I thought was good enough and wasn’t. When searching for a clutch look for the better tq/nm of it. I have what claims 500hp but the tq is weak and just glazed it.
Hopwood Motorsport makes a damn good twin disk with fly for 900$(ish).
As far as drivability goes the turbo doesn’t spoil till 3k and so makes daily driving not anything different.
I’ve driven it 6k + miles since this video and nothing has faulted. Other than tires struggle to hook haha
I believe I spent about 3000 on all of it I’ll have to total it up and re edit the details
Crzylexusdrvr lol cool, around what mileage did you did all these things. Thanks a lot.
Andy this was filmed 100miles after initial start. So about 200400. If I remember correctly
Crzylexusdrvr cool, thanks man for all the info
What front seats are those?
vsho they are from cipher auto, they are ok but have a lot of give to the back rest which this is the only set out of 3 that I’ve owned from them that do that problem. I’m probably gonna swap them out for a different style for the driver and maybe the passenger. We shall see
hey do you think a auto 330ci could handle some power?
REDFORZARACER , sure thing, the only down side is it’s a 8psi max. The auto trans just isn’t strong enough for more, and the excess heat produced will cook the trans. The 5spd have been able to handle upwards of 6-700hp/tq the 6spd about the same. But unfortunately the auto is limited to give or take 350..
REDFORZARACER there are a few people that can and have successfully programmed the automatic cars to recognize a manual swap.
@@Crzylexusdrvr 350 to the wheels? thats sucks cos alot of the ones i find in my budget are autos. how much do you reckon a manual swap will cost? thanks dude
REDFORZARACER, I believe it’s more 305-315 whp after the 18-20% Powertrain loss.
To swap it you’ll spend pending how you do it anywhere from 1200-3000$
Salvage yards will be your best friend with the trans (here they cost 165$) but pulled yourself.
The drive lines are 4-800$ new pending style and brand.
A clutch kit if went eBay can be 5-600 but you’ll want to replace the throw out bearing and pilot.. real cheap and make horrible noises. And get Sachs or equal.
And if you pull the trans get all the linkage needed. And driveline if it’s still good.
The auto diff will make the rpms horribly high when driving. So a lower gearing will be wanted if daily driven. But the auto diff will make more skids and low rpm fun. Then it’s just a matter of tuning the ecu
@@Crzylexusdrvr alright cool, thanks. i guess its better to find myself a manual then!
Does it run on tuned stock ms43 ecu?
Radosław K yes, the only thing that was modified was the maf from stock. As far as electrical goes.
@@Crzylexusdrvr I guess you are using audi rs4 maf @ 2048kgh maf hack?
Radosław K nope I’m running a hpx pmas maf, which rktunes tunes so I’m of not the best help on what is actually tuned at
@@Crzylexusdrvr What injectors are you using?
Radosław K they are the ones rktunes supplies I believe they are 850cc
Stock piston?
Darrin Shaw correct, the only thing change from factory is the head studs, head gasket, maf and injectors.
I thought u couldn’t tune these
Wrist Game Icy you feel me, these have become very tunable the past decade. Especially the past 5yrs with more “remote tuners” and self tuners. Plenty of FB groups and forums discussing how to go about tuning these. I however went through a very reputable tuner because I didn’t have enough knowledge on what to do or where to look.
Nice bro this car is sick I’ve been floating around the idea of turboing my 328 but it looks rather complex and expensive. almost pushing 200,00 miles but the engine runs like a dream which is the only thing making me lean towards doing it. Might just save for an m3 rather than put all that money in a 200,000 mile car which could possibly blow up a couple hundred miles after boosting. Sick build tho more people needa boost these.
Wrist Game Icy you feel me, I’d say jump on this and enjoy, the price of an m3 is 3times the amount I put into this. Granted it was a shocker and surprise to get it to work. But I did it for around 3-3.5k tune included. When doing this you’ll just need the head gasket, the turbo manifold, turbo intercooler plumbing. Bov, wastegate oil feed and turbo engine mount. Definitely a stronger clutch if it’s a manual. I mention in another persons comments on the downside of a auto. Other than that once you’ve done those bits and got the tune from rktunes which supplies the tune maf and injectors, many have been going with GEP who is another highly recommended tuner for these. I know I’ll be building another motor soon and hopefully document it better for everyone. I changed so much on my initial design and attempt it was fairly easy to know what I’ll need next time now. And I’m so stoked to be putting round town and freaking people out when it choofs hahaha
Crzylexusdrvr yea I got a 5 speed m52tub28, I heard these clutches were pretty strong but with 200k I’m sure it wouldn’t last long, what head gasket did you use and do you think head studs would be necessary, From what I’ve read these engines can handle light boost pretty good and max I would want is like 15 lbs. The installation looks doable for sure, tuning it seems like a headache but I’m wondering in your personal opinion how you think a 200k stock engine would handle boosting from a reliability standpoint. Obv u can’t make me any promises but how much mileage would you be comfortable with on a stock engine before building the internals and such? Also thanks for the replies and encouragement it means a lot.
Wrist Game Icy you feel me, I mention both in the video, cometic head gasket and raceware headstuds. Both from vac Motorsport. I didn’t boost my car till I hit 200k and replaced the clutch at the same time. With 200k the precautions I would take are new bearing, rod and crank. And cam followers(tappets), new timing guides/tensioners. A head gasket kit can be purchased on amazon for like 80-90$ and the few timing gaskets on the lower end are like 5$ each or so. Use a m52 e36 mls header gasket it has all the holes and that perforated gasket just blows out so the steel gaskets for the exhaust end up being the best. And re ring the pistons while cleaning them up.
Basically sums up everything I’ve done apart from the new rod and crank bolts required(not reusable). Many bump up and retap the heads for a thicker m12 head bolt for more boost. I’m only at 14psi which is 450hp plans on going higher with a spare block. And that’s about the limit of a stock block imo. And I’ve slapped on 5-6k miles since which initial first start was in June. And I tend to daily this.
RKTunes suck!!! Waste of money!