Bought right after Dave Cam reviewed them and couldn’t be happier. I haven’t noticed any issue with throttle pedal on mine. I actually just put stiffer spring in brake the other day and it made a big difference in consistency for me. Was waiting for another top tier review of these after Dave’s. Thanks for review and all the work you do in community. Keep it up!!!!
It was his review that sold me, I also messaged him and he said these are going to be his go to pedals. Mine coming tomorrow, glad your happy with them👍
@@darmichar73 Would you believe had them 2 weeks and not used them yet, had a problem with my base coming. Got it all this morning so will be using the tomorrow, they look fantastic. Great to hear your happy with them, absolute minefield choosing pedals😱
I've had my XP1s since September of last year and after a bit of trouble to begin with, they're now pretty much set and I've been pretty happy with them. I like how smooth they are and I like the dual-stage brake. Here's some of the issues, just in case it helps anyone else: When I first got them there was a fair bit of jitter in the sensors for the accelerator and clutch. The support from Simlab has been pretty good. Although I feel it took longer than it really needed to, they were pretty responsive, which was nice. After a bunch of troubleshooting, they sent me a new controller box which resolved the issue. The clutch came without the bolts at the pivot point tightened down, so the pedal jiggled. It was hard to tighten this down myself because both sides are connected together, so you need two hex wrenches that are the same size and I only have one set. I had to borrow one from a neighbor. The clutch also came without the bolts on the pedal face angle bracket tightened down. Luckily, this was an easy fix. The clutch manual states "This is the only pedal which we limit to only using the top adjustment point on the pedal arm. Because of the swiveling pivot part, we do not support any of the other adjustment holes." This limits the adjustability of the pedal and the setting of the bite point. I've actually moved to to the middle hole and it's worked just fine, although I've adjusted the spring so that it's smooth all the way through the range instead of it having a bite point. I'm not sure if this makes a difference. The pedals squeaked when I first got them. I had to lubricate the bushings straight out of the box, and I had to do it a couple times. They're now quiet, though When I first set up the pedals, they all extended out to different points. While troubleshooting the jitter issue, I disassembled the accelerator and found that the soft pad that's suppose to cushion the pedal when released had come lose, which is why the pedal was extending further than the brake. Since I had the issue from the beginning, it evidently came from SimLab that way. I glued it back on and now it's the same height as the brake and much quieter when released. About a month later, the pad that cushions the accelerator when it's pressed came lose. I haven't bothered to take it all apart to fix it, though. Too much work and since I don't usually slam the accelerator down to full, it hasn't bothered me much. Although this is just personal preference, the accelerator pedal is short, which makes it difficult to heel/toe. I was able to solve this by designing and printing a replacement pedal. If you don't have a 3D printer, you'll just have to get used to it, I guess. I also printed up a brake pedal because I prefer mine to have fairly flat face There were no color-codings or markings indicating which spring or elastomer is which. Evidently, the elasotmers are now marked, so that's nice. The adjustment screws that are at your heal are really annoying, so I would recommend using a heel plate. Even with a heel plate, I find the armatures fairly long, so the face plates are higher than I like. Putting the face plate to it's lowest setting wasn't enough, but I found I can turn the face plates over to be able to get them lower. The SimLab logo is upside down, but makes no difference when using them, so doesn't bother me a bit. And a tip for calibrating the pedals in the sim... I load a Race Director profile that's linear with no deadzones. I then calibrate the pedals in the sim and then switch back to my normal curves with deadzones.
Thanks for your feedback. I got exactly same issues as yours (clutch / throttle jitter, clutch bolts not tightened down, etc...). Simlab sent another control box, I'm waiting for it to be delivered, I hope it will solve my issue. To sum up, that's a good pedals set for that price, with good looking design ! First users just have to face some early stage issues at the beginning of this product life...
Thanks for the review, mine are being delivered today. Have been racking my brain deciding between VRS, VNM, Simgrade and P1000, decided on these in the end. Went for the simplicity of adjustment, look and the look like they won't break.
How do you feel about these a few hours later? Got the p1000, but I feel like they're unfortunately not the right pedal set for me, so thinking about buying the XP1.
@@lorenz7550 Should have arrived at 12.30 said one stop away, drove past and now coming tomorrow 🤬 I will post when I get them on tomorrow 🤞 was so close to getting the P1000 but decided I wasn't needing the add ons as have bass kicker on my pedal plate. Speaking to Dave cam kind of sold me, have you seen his review.
@@karlallen6055 I watched Dave's after I watched this and he sold me on them due to the fact that he's used them on his personal rig for the last 4 months since receiving them.
I had the simagic p2000. replaced them with these. Couldn't get consistent trail braking mid corner with them. Switched to these and I find getting to 70-80% pressure easier and more consistently and find trail braking much more consistent. Awesome pedals
Can confirm with the sensitivity issues. I’m specifically facing an issue with throttle position sticking for a fraction of a second. It’s intermittent but does happen mid corner when in the sim. Still great pedals though so hopefully I can get this issue sorted.
My set (3 pedals) were all spiking after 2 months of use; not going from 0 to 100, more like the input not staying constant; it is fixed with a firmware update :)
Thanks After 5 years pushing on a Thrustmaster T3PA Pro ... After more than 2 years watching pedals set reviews ... I got my XP1 3 pedals set at the end of November. My comments : TL;DR = one of the cheapest, but also very good. Happy ! Not TL;DR (at all !) : not absolutely perfect through. *First setting* : I used the Sim-Lab pedal plate that was provided with my GT1-EVO kit. It has some limitations regarding lateral positioning and back-forward tilting. *Second settings* : I used extra alu. profiles to support the pedals + the original pedal plate, reversed, in front of the pedals. Almost like a car floor if you wish. Much better with a twist. It also allows for more lateral position settings. I like to have the pedal set more to the left, and especially, the brake pedal aligned as much as possible with my left leg. It's not as confortable with the GT1-EVO pedal plate only. Note that I would not pretend to be a very talented sim racer. Even so, I put most settings to the harder position, even when coming from a very soft TM T3PA Pro. *On all three pedals :* - tighten the pedal plate firmly (the lower screw just behind the pedal plate). At first, I didn't check this setting. They were tightened, but not enough for the brake, and during my first week, the pedal plate slipped back while braking hard - I completely removed the blue front screws. First, this has to do with the "socks or shoes" question. I would recommend shoes. You can drive with socks, but without any heel plate, the screws can easily hurt the bottom of your heels. I like the full travel from the throttle, as well as the other pedals. Anyway, the pedal brake is more limited by the force you can repeatedly apply. - I set the arms to the upper position. I still feel confortable with this part of the stiffness settings. - a little bit of lower dead zone for all 3 pedals. *Throttle* : be careful when calibrating. If you push the pedal the harder you can when calibrating, you may not be able to reach the maximum throttle while in game (at least, when you forget about it), except using a huge dead upper zone. I recalibrated and stopped pushing as soon as I felt the metal. Doing so, you still need a dead zone, but much smaller. I found myself very slow in ACC before realizing I was not "pedal to the metal". *Brake* : I'll start from the mechanical point of view only. I started with the softer combination, because of the Thrustmaster set I used. The pedal quickly started to make a squeaky noise; I don't know if it comes from the spring or the elastomer. I switched to the almost hardest combination of spring and elastomer (shore 70). At first, it was silent, but it quickly started to make the same noise. You get used to it, but you also can't help but thinking there's a problem. I have not tried to remove the spring and use the spacer instead. Yet ... From the feeling point of view : nice ! The hardest setting if even better. As I said, I have experience in sim racing, but that doesn't make me a good sim racer. And I have 5 years of T3PA Pro to forget. But I already can feel the improvements. Not huge in performance, but much more in pace and consistency. *Clutch* : not a lot to say. Same remarks than the throttle regarding the calibration. I don't get it : you are using this clutch as a ON/OFF one ??? Wow ... I think you need a bit of progressiveness most of the time ...
I had a similar issue with the squeaking, although it was right out of the box with both the clutch and brake. It turned out to be the bushings. After lubricating them a couple times I haven't had any issues with it. I've also found the same issue with calibrating the clutch and accelerator. Because the end stops have fairly soft silencers, the endpoints are a bit 'mushy'. I'm just careful to stop pressing right when I feel a little resistance, and then after the calibration, I put a little dead zone in.
@@pandacongolais I first tried silicone since it doesn't attract dirt but it didn't work for very long. I then used WD40. It took a couple times, so it seems it takes a bit for the lubricant to work itself into the joints. Here's what SimLab recommends in the manual: As for lubrication ( ), we generally recommend WD-40 Specialist White Lithium Grease to lubricate moving parts (rotating and sliding). Also, do not forget the spring bolt which also sits in a bushing on the pedal arm.
@@ohgeez9971 Right, I didn't thought to RTFM. How stupid ... Sim-Lab advise the WD-40 Specialist White Lithium. Although a quick check brought me on the Heusinkveld site : they advise the WD-40 PTFE ... Both tell the lubricate the rotation axis. None tells us what to do when the noise come from the spring and/or the elastomer ... Thanks a lot anyway. I think I'll have to test one of these ...
Absolutely, I literally came so close to getting each of the pedals. Saw these on dave cam, but no ther reviews so wasnt sure also someone said he wasn't using them anymore. Sent him a message last Thursday, he said was reviewing other pedal but once he had the XP1 were going back on his rig. That made my mind up, really I wanted the Asetek as I have the wheebase but just too many conflicting reviews (also I have a bad knee). Good luck with your choice, doubt you can go far wrong with any of them.
@@drchtct All a guess unless you've had time with all the pedals, I had 6 pedals in my list. All had great reviews so just comes down to gut feeling, absolutely positive I would have been over the moon with all coming from my CSL elite
Great Review as always! I also have these pedals since it was launched. I replaced the asetek invictas with these pedals and my left knee does not hurt anymore :) This is a keeper for sure!
@@RichardSchouteren Unless they recently updated the software, like real recently this doesn't work. I have to disable Real-Time Protection in W11 defender, which always restarts itself, it cant be disabled. (It labels RD as unknown software and refuses to install). Install race director, update to the newest version and Im good until I reboot and then W11 defender deletes RD, and I have to repeat the process.
Ive tried them at the expo. Expansive but worth the money. You can modelate the brake and throttle precisely. And they look fancy to. I am happy with my fanatec cls pedals that came with a loadcell too for 300$.
When I got my Forte I actually wanted to buy those. I am dutch, they are dutch, so that could be a good combination, but they werent selling yet, so I bought the Forte pedals because I wanted to upgrade them later with the T.H.O.R.P. cylinder and I just did that. I am happy with my choice, but I am pretty sure I would be happy with those as well. They look sick!
Have had the pedals for a few months now and have never had an issue with the accelerator pedal. As mentioned, you'll need a heel plate at additional cost and I ended up reversing the the pedal face for racing in socks. Stiffest spring will be a must with 60A elastomer (already installed) for most. Fantastic pedal set.
I upgraded my V3's with BPK to these XP-1's 6 weeks ago and it's a great upgrade. The V3's do feel a bit toy-ish compared to these and the extra customisation is fantastic. My only real annoyance with the pedals is the blue adjuster on the heel which changes the travel distance on the accelerator. It keeps coming loose no matter how much tension I try to put on the locking pin. Thinking of taking them to World's Strongest Man competition to see if those guys can do a better job, but aside from that these are excellent pedals for the money and I would highly recommend.
Just bought the pedal set with the Boosted code. Love the channel and your reviews happy to support. I Don't like using a cheap spring on top of the load cell. my P2000 have a spring superglued for the throttle and after 9 months they're going out I'm getting ghost loadcell inputs and cross inputs when I press the brake it will register some throttle. I've given up on the Simagic P2000 plus the side to side play in the pedals themselves not 1k quality. Hopefully these serve me better
Wow great review, honestly you have some of the best Sim racing content , and have even surpassed Sim Racing Garage always providing us with the latest and greatest content . My one question on a personal level is I am so heavily into thrustmaster equipment , T gt2 base , 6 plus wheel , load cell pedals, shifter, hub , e brake and more but I want to go with a direct drive wheel set up that good for both pc and console, my budget is only 3000 grand maybe more if I can sell my stuff for around 600 plus , any great suggestions would be greatly appreciated .
Well, crap. I'm in the market for pedals next on my rig. I was torn between the VRS and VNM, but these have a much nicer 'refined' look and I'm accenting my rig in blue... Looks like I know what my next purchase will be.
Great and thorough review. Been debating between these and the Simagic P1000 will be anxiously waiting for your review of those to help me make my decision. I really take what you say into account when purchasing new gear and I appreciate the hard work and dedication you give us year after year.
Fantastic video mate - literlly covered everything. I had the same distinct flickering issue with the throttle. I was worried I'd have to return set, but was pointed to the latest firmware release by thier responsice customer service and boom, flickering gone. Still disappointed that Sim Lab/Grid haven't done something to fix the shady/scary download you have to stress over for their software. Cheers!
Hi Will, thanks once more for another brilliant review. I replaced my Fanatec v3's (with BPK) for these about a month ago. It shows that the v3 are becoming outdated, on an average track I am 0.5 seconds per lap faster with these pedals. Modulating the brakes goed much easier and braking is less tricky especially with cars without ABS. The design looks brilliant and it is really easy to swap out springs and elastomers. I had a small issue with the throttle, not going completely back to its original position after releasing the pedal. I loosened the pivot point a little which solved the issue, also informed Sim Lab on the issue. After a couple of days I re-tightened it and no issues since then, so maybe the lube/grease had to spread within the pivot point and the issue solves itself over time using the pedal. I also need to mention, although I have no issues with it having a large shoe size, is that the pedals are really high and that people with normal or small shoe size might need a heel rest to get their feet higher and maybe also need to mount the pedal plates upside down. I also informed Sim Lab about the Trojan warning coming from BitDefender and also from Windows Security if you kill BitDefender. I work in IT since 1997 so not much of an issue for me but can be a showstopper for the average user/consumer. Sim Lab informed me that there would come a software update this January to solve the issue .... so they still have some days left 🙂
Congratulations for your videos. ONE QUESTION, PLEASE: Between the Sim-Lab XP1 and the Simagic P1000 pedals, which is the best, according to your experience and your tests? Thank you in advance.
I have a set of Meca Evo1 pedals. You won't see elastomer blow-outs on those. I was also put off by Hall effect sensor issues (sensitivities) way back, ever since my Fanatec V2 throttle. Just an opinion but the load cell, on my throttle even if unpopular seems more robust to potential electronic interference. Never had issues with load cells. Speaking of, interest choice of load cell for simlabs' brake. Very smilar form factor to Fanatec. Seems a great price. Not my cup of tea though. Great review. 👍
These look really nice and pricepoint is also welcomed. £430 here in UK which is close to the absolute maximum im willing to throw at a pedal set. Sadly this would not go well with my playseat challenge rig 😅 but we are allowed to dream arent we ?!
another great video, I'm not in the market for new pedals but do like the look of this pedal set but please SimLab sort out that cheap floppy cable routing
Great review!! I had the throttle jumping at idle issue as well. I didn’t see you cover a firmware update, it’s past the software section in the manual and I missed it at first, found it when I was troubleshooting this issue. The firmware update fixed the issue for me. Since mine was jumping so high the deadzone adjustment did not help. I am having a sizing issue with the software, it is sized so big I lose the top and right third of the window. Resolution change did not help this, curious if anyone else has seen this?
Been itching for an upgrade. Currently running a 14(!) year old set of CST (Cannon simulation technologies) pedals. Probably got one of the last sets ever made, just before the fraud activity. I wonder how these compare. (Or VRS pedals)
thanks for the review ! if you check the p1000 you should test it whith the softest elastomers (grey) in my opinion it's a disaster combining with load cell !
To those having the jitter issues, Iracing wouldn't even recognize the pedals because of the jitter, download the firmware update tool and flash the update. It fixes the jitter issues.👍🏻
Just got mine in today & after 5hrs of getting them mounted & everything setup been having issues with the throttle... IDK if its RD or what but in RD they calibrate fine & seem to work correctly but after I calibrate them in iRacing I lose like 10-20% on the top end & never can get full throttle unless i reallly press into the throttle IDK if its bad adjustment on the sensor or what waiting on a response back from Sim Lab
I ran my Sim Lab XP1 pedals yesterday and was consistently getting input noise. At first it was just the clutch pedal so I set a (7) dead zone so it wouldn’t interfere with in game settings. But then once I went into a game the throttle pedal really started wigging out. I did everything I could to try and eliminate the problem I could think of. I absolutely love the way these pedals feel and look but this is hella annoying. I’m going to fiddle with it for a bit again today but I’m not going to exhaust too many hours trying to get this interference to stop. I got in a couple laps on a few different titles and LOVE THESE PEDALS! But the problem ended up happening in every game after a race or 3.
i have a fanatec dd1 and i have fanatec clubsport v2 pedals that have recently broken would you say its worth spending a bit more money to get xp1 or vnm or vrs pedals over fanatec clubsport v3s?
Is there a software to change throttle-, brake-, clutch-curves for fanatec pedals? Fanalab or the driver itself doesn't seem to offer something like that.
Thanks for the review, I decided on these after looking at many options but you had yet to review them now that its out im more confident on my decision, mine still have not arrived but looking forward to driving with them, you didn’t mention the blue screw on the bottom being a problem with socks, some users are complaining about it and that made me buy the heel rest plate to go along with the pedals..
Yo i wish you would include Australian pricing. I get the us market is huge, but as an aussie surely you could include the conversion ( so i dont have too 😅)
I have until tomorrow to possibly choose between xp1 and p1000 for pedals , what gives a more authentic immersive experience would you say or even has a better value per dollar? I bought a bundle from micro center and they come with xp1 but a few Reddit users told me they’ve asked to swap for p1000 and they did so, now I’m debaiting which ( getting the xp1 2 pedal set for around 400$ brand new or p1000 3 pedal model for same price )
@@boostedmediai appreciate the fast feedback, you’re my Togo to channel for anything sim news. Been researching for almost a year now putting money on the side to afford and finally got my set and absolutely hyped to pick up tomorrow, going from a g29 to alpha 15nm, gt bro wheel and xp1 pedals on a gt1 evo rig I bought all for 1500$ as a holiday bundle from micro center
@boostedmedia I had the exact same question, but probably wouldn’t have asked. Thanks for going through and answering these! They’re helping more than just those who ask.
Picked up a triple pedal set of these a month ago locally at Microcenter. They dont seem to come in this color anymore, Mine were labeled "black edition" and are pretty much all anodized black and grey. Best pedals I have used by far. Besides Windows 11 flagging race director software as "malicious content" and deleting it on every restart. Please fix this Simlab.
I think they should come with a replacement for the outdated v3's. The CSL Elite v2's are much better braking wise and therefor you are going faster. At this point in time Fanatec has a lot of other issues to be solved first though. To my opinion Fanatec should maybe invest less in innovation for a while and focus more on 'copying' their Chinese competitors and challenge them with equal or higher quality products to keep the company financially healthy.
@@Frank_Steven_Groen Over 8 years with Fanatec, had the DD+ and V3"s on order for over two months to be told March (if I'm lucky) I cancelled last week and got a Asetek forte base and wheels (it's amazing) . I needed PS really but now I've made the decision it gave me so many options in pedals and bases, my XP1's have just arived so super excited. Bye the way Fanatec haven't replied to one of my emails for 7 weeks. They've turned into a disgrace.
I've had 2 major failures with the Throttle pedal, both times the bracket holding theagnetic sensor has sheared off the base of the pedal. Once may have been a flaw, but 2. The pedals are not fit for purpose.
Just bought the 3 pedal Black Edition, open box, unused from Micro Center for $548. Also picked up the Sliding pedal base with heel rest. Before buying these I purchased a set of Heusinkveld Ultimate + pedals for $1300. I hadn't mounted those to my rig because I was waitng for other items and the more I looked at them the more I thought they were overkill for me personally. I really wanted them, but I just didn't know if I needed them. Yes... I know how that sounds. So, I bought the XP1's and put them side by side with the Heusinkvelds and then made the decision to return the Ultimates and keep the XP1s. Now don't get me wrong, I'm not at all saying the XP1s are equal to the Ultimate + pedals, I'm just saying for me, I had trouble justifying the additional price. I'm 62 years old and was also considering how long I would be able to keep sim racing, given the leg and knee issues I have already had. I (maybe incorrectly) thought that the XP1's might be a little more comfortable considering the wider and curved pedal faces. I really hope I made a good decision. Thanks for a great review, Will.
i have srp pedals which are pretty cheap. but i think tax time im gong to grab these pedals and hope it helps me on the dirt to be a little more precise on the throttle.. Or should i pay 140 more and get the p2000?
Moza SRP pedals? If so...I recently made the switch from Moza SRP to the P1000i and back to the Moza to compare. The throttle pedal of the p1000 made more of a difference than the brake pedal for my times. Rally...no circuit racing tho. The P1000 feels much better than the SRP in terms of realism...much more adjustable and I feel the P1000 could suit anyone with it's range of adjustments. Edit: just realized you said p2000 lol...I couldn't decide between the 1000 or 2000
@@CodyMcDonald89 I turned up the throttle preload all the way on its original spring and it was to my liking. This seems the case for most but if you want more resistance you can force one of the slightly longer extra clutch springs in there...some like it
Hey everyone. Am new in the world of simulators etc.. and have absolutely 0 knowledge about how everything works and it's compatible. Slowly starting to build my house and will have a dedicated mancave as I want to have a room with simulators for gaming . I have a budget of 20000 euros but I want to be able to play on PC/Playstation and Xbox. Furthermore I don't care for motion simulators but I want it to be a hybrid option so I can race comfortably both as gt and f1 mode . As I race cars in real life pedals seat and steering must be of similar feel . Is there a chance you make a video regarding this budget?
@@boostedmedia reviewed it. It was in the beginning. Thanks. But would you commend the Sim Lab over the Asetek? You said the Asetek are good for your type of racing style but if you configure the Sim Lab harder they should be like the Asetek, don't they?
That cable for the loadcell on the brake pedal would scare the hell out of me every time I changed the set up. It should be long enough that the stack is not restricted in its movement by the cable. It’s just asking for breakages
if the trottle pedal have a 5cm course between 0% and 100% in 16bits that make 1 position every 0.000763 milimeters, so dw i think nobody on earth is talented enought to feel that
i still dont understand the prices of these things 3 sensors 2 springs and a little bit of metal for 500 bucks ☠️ for that money you can get a car with hundreds of parts how does this work
Prices (of anything, not just simracing stuff) are not dictated by how much it costs to manufacture things, they are dictated by how much people are willing to pay. Simracers are willing to pay a lot (because, as I just mentioned in another comment, simracing is essentially a hobby dominated by wealthy middle-aged men with way too much money on their hands, and also rather gullible) and so the prices reflect that.
I've had mine since just before Christmas and both the throttle and brake have got really squeaky to the point they can be heard in the next room, and the wall between the rooms is double skin solid brick, I can hear them over my headset. I've also had an issue where the throttle has lost a little calibration with the top end twice, so I've been losing time and then realised i'm only hitting 95%ish percent with my foot down. Last night the brake wouldn't calibrate at all, it was fixed at 100% and unplug/replug didn't help, had to reflash the same firmware version back onto the pedals for it to work again. Also the little side bolts at the front of the throttle worked loose and had massive side to side wobble so had to retighten those. I was full of hope but there have been moments where I've been tempted to put my T-LCMs back. Hopefully I'll get time this week to have a deeper look at the noise, the rest of it seems better now, so if i can solve that I might start liking them more.
Mine both started squeaking after 2 weeks. Took them apart and applied some white lithium grease to the rods that the springs are on specifically at the rear where it slides thru the plastic end cap, solved it.
For anyone landing here, reflashing the same firmware has fixed my throttle issues and it hasn't happened again, nor have the side bolts worked loose again, so all in all now pretty happy with them.
@boostedmedia thanks I and others will appreciate it... its a shame its gone this way and it's having such a bad effect on such a wonderful community 👍🏾
I know I'm going off topic, but it would be nice to make a video about the fanatec situation people are waiting since november for their orders. I know you may have a contract with fanatec and in that case I don't blame you for not doing the video, but if you haven't got a contract it would be nice to inform people about the situation and maybe making fanatec give updates about the situation of the clubsport formula wheel 2.5x, dd1 and clubsport dd+
i will keep my simforge pedals. why do these companies make high end pedals yet dont make plate from them for people with bigger feet i hate almost every pedal i have tried because of that and i have tried 5 diffent load cell pedal i landed on simforge mark 1 for $360 us think of getting the vmn lite pedal the face look big. i mean its so simple to sell some face plates come on for real
These Sim Lab pedals are excellent for people, with bigger feet so what is your issue? People with smaller feet will have issues probably and need a heel rest to get their feet higher or mount the pedal face plates upside down.
Simracing, as presented by UA-camrs and/or people on r/simracing and such, is essentially a hobby for wealthy middle-aged men who have way too much money on their hands (and/or are sponsored by multiple manufacturers). Hence why so many people firmly believe a "reasonably priced" or "affordable" entry level setup consists of $1000+ DD wheel and $700+ pedals, all mounted in a $1000+ rig in a dedicated room. Because that's what they see on forums and on YT presented as normal and/or essential.
I was on board until I saw that it uses bushings instead of bearings. I worry that brake, in particular, will become sloppy with use. Edit: also, the micro USB is an odd choice.
Pardon my pet peeve…but no manufacturer of any item with a USB connection and priced at anything over $20 or so should be using a mini or micro USB connection any longer. Just stop this already.
These 2 stage brake pedals don't make sense for sim racing since they're using a load cell. The first stage is supposed to simulate the empty space between the rotor and the pads. So the "click" at the end of the first stage is supposed to be the pads beginning to touch the rotors, which means up to that point there should be no braking happening. But since it's using a load cell its registering braking all the way through that movement. I have the Asetek Invicta pedals since they came out and at this point I use that click as the max pressure of the brakes, because it makes no sense to have 50% brakes when it moves through the first stage, then 50% brakes using just pressure. Whenever I replace these Aseteks I'm not going to be buying a two stage setup anymore, I also want something with move movement. 20mm is good, but it's limiting to learning proper braking for real sports cars since 20mm braking only applies to certain race cars. Not even all GT3 cars work that way, as it's been shown time and time again now with the Mercedes GT3 that has a significant amount of movement on the brake pedal. You can forget heel and toe shifting with these types of pedals too.
Bought right after Dave Cam reviewed them and couldn’t be happier. I haven’t noticed any issue with throttle pedal on mine. I actually just put stiffer spring in brake the other day and it made a big difference in consistency for me. Was waiting for another top tier review of these after Dave’s. Thanks for review and all the work you do in community. Keep it up!!!!
It was his review that sold me, I also messaged him and he said these are going to be his go to pedals. Mine coming tomorrow, glad your happy with them👍
@@karlallen6055 Bought these after watching Dave's review too. No issues with the throttle and could not be happier with these pedals.
@@darmichar73 Would you believe had them 2 weeks and not used them yet, had a problem with my base coming. Got it all this morning so will be using the tomorrow, they look fantastic. Great to hear your happy with them, absolute minefield choosing pedals😱
@@darmichar73 Been using them a week now, absolutely love them. Trail braking without even thinking about it, so many levels up from my V3"s.
@@karlallen6055 Same here, so glad I made the purchase. Had to grease mine out of the box but, other than that they have been flawless.
I've had my XP1s since September of last year and after a bit of trouble to begin with, they're now pretty much set and I've been pretty happy with them. I like how smooth they are and I like the dual-stage brake.
Here's some of the issues, just in case it helps anyone else:
When I first got them there was a fair bit of jitter in the sensors for the accelerator and clutch. The support from Simlab has been pretty good. Although I feel it took longer than it really needed to, they were pretty responsive, which was nice. After a bunch of troubleshooting, they sent me a new controller box which resolved the issue.
The clutch came without the bolts at the pivot point tightened down, so the pedal jiggled. It was hard to tighten this down myself because both sides are connected together, so you need two hex wrenches that are the same size and I only have one set. I had to borrow one from a neighbor.
The clutch also came without the bolts on the pedal face angle bracket tightened down. Luckily, this was an easy fix.
The clutch manual states "This is the only pedal which we limit to only using the top adjustment point on the pedal arm. Because of the swiveling pivot part, we do not support any of the other adjustment holes." This limits the adjustability of the pedal and the setting of the bite point. I've actually moved to to the middle hole and it's worked just fine, although I've adjusted the spring so that it's smooth all the way through the range instead of it having a bite point. I'm not sure if this makes a difference.
The pedals squeaked when I first got them. I had to lubricate the bushings straight out of the box, and I had to do it a couple times. They're now quiet, though
When I first set up the pedals, they all extended out to different points. While troubleshooting the jitter issue, I disassembled the accelerator and found that the soft pad that's suppose to cushion the pedal when released had come lose, which is why the pedal was extending further than the brake. Since I had the issue from the beginning, it evidently came from SimLab that way. I glued it back on and now it's the same height as the brake and much quieter when released. About a month later, the pad that cushions the accelerator when it's pressed came lose. I haven't bothered to take it all apart to fix it, though. Too much work and since I don't usually slam the accelerator down to full, it hasn't bothered me much.
Although this is just personal preference, the accelerator pedal is short, which makes it difficult to heel/toe. I was able to solve this by designing and printing a replacement pedal. If you don't have a 3D printer, you'll just have to get used to it, I guess. I also printed up a brake pedal because I prefer mine to have fairly flat face
There were no color-codings or markings indicating which spring or elastomer is which. Evidently, the elasotmers are now marked, so that's nice.
The adjustment screws that are at your heal are really annoying, so I would recommend using a heel plate.
Even with a heel plate, I find the armatures fairly long, so the face plates are higher than I like. Putting the face plate to it's lowest setting wasn't enough, but I found I can turn the face plates over to be able to get them lower. The SimLab logo is upside down, but makes no difference when using them, so doesn't bother me a bit.
And a tip for calibrating the pedals in the sim... I load a Race Director profile that's linear with no deadzones. I then calibrate the pedals in the sim and then switch back to my normal curves with deadzones.
Excellent feedback! Thanks heaps for taking the time to share :)
Thanks for your feedback. I got exactly same issues as yours (clutch / throttle jitter, clutch bolts not tightened down, etc...). Simlab sent another control box, I'm waiting for it to be delivered, I hope it will solve my issue.
To sum up, that's a good pedals set for that price, with good looking design ! First users just have to face some early stage issues at the beginning of this product life...
i have the same problem and switched out control box with new one no change@@eliminator78480
@@eliminator78480was hoping this wouldn’t happen to me but also having the jitter issues in clutch/gas
@@neighbor6262 if it happens, contact the support, they should send you a new control box
Thanks for the review, mine are being delivered today. Have been racking my brain deciding between VRS, VNM, Simgrade and P1000, decided on these in the end. Went for the simplicity of adjustment, look and the look like they won't break.
How do you feel about these a few hours later? Got the p1000, but I feel like they're unfortunately not the right pedal set for me, so thinking about buying the XP1.
@@lorenz7550 Should have arrived at 12.30 said one stop away, drove past and now coming tomorrow 🤬
I will post when I get them on tomorrow 🤞 was so close to getting the P1000 but decided I wasn't needing the add ons as have bass kicker on my pedal plate. Speaking to Dave cam kind of sold me, have you seen his review.
@@karlallen6055 I watched Dave's after I watched this and he sold me on them due to the fact that he's used them on his personal rig for the last 4 months since receiving them.
Do you like it so far?@@karlallen6055
@@karlallen6055 arrived now?
I had the simagic p2000. replaced them with these. Couldn't get consistent trail braking mid corner with them. Switched to these and I find getting to 70-80% pressure easier and more consistently and find trail braking much more consistent. Awesome pedals
Please tell us more.
I have the p2000’s and am having the same issue. Glad to see you comment
Can confirm with the sensitivity issues. I’m specifically facing an issue with throttle position sticking for a fraction of a second. It’s intermittent but does happen mid corner when in the sim.
Still great pedals though so hopefully I can get this issue sorted.
My set (3 pedals) were all spiking after 2 months of use; not going from 0 to 100, more like the input not staying constant; it is fixed with a firmware update :)
@@altransamaltransam95thanks, I’ll give that a try 😄
@@chrisaitken4339 Did you fix it?
@@miatafunrun3078 yeah! They’ve been pretty solid since then.
Thanks
After 5 years pushing on a Thrustmaster T3PA Pro ... After more than 2 years watching pedals set reviews ...
I got my XP1 3 pedals set at the end of November.
My comments : TL;DR = one of the cheapest, but also very good. Happy !
Not TL;DR (at all !) : not absolutely perfect through.
*First setting* : I used the Sim-Lab pedal plate that was provided with my GT1-EVO kit. It has some limitations regarding lateral positioning and back-forward tilting.
*Second settings* : I used extra alu. profiles to support the pedals + the original pedal plate, reversed, in front of the pedals. Almost like a car floor if you wish. Much better with a twist. It also allows for more lateral position settings. I like to have the pedal set more to the left, and especially, the brake pedal aligned as much as possible with my left leg. It's not as confortable with the GT1-EVO pedal plate only.
Note that I would not pretend to be a very talented sim racer. Even so, I put most settings to the harder position, even when coming from a very soft TM T3PA Pro.
*On all three pedals :*
- tighten the pedal plate firmly (the lower screw just behind the pedal plate). At first, I didn't check this setting. They were tightened, but not enough for the brake, and during my first week, the pedal plate slipped back while braking hard
- I completely removed the blue front screws. First, this has to do with the "socks or shoes" question. I would recommend shoes. You can drive with socks, but without any heel plate, the screws can easily hurt the bottom of your heels. I like the full travel from the throttle, as well as the other pedals. Anyway, the pedal brake is more limited by the force you can repeatedly apply.
- I set the arms to the upper position. I still feel confortable with this part of the stiffness settings.
- a little bit of lower dead zone for all 3 pedals.
*Throttle* : be careful when calibrating. If you push the pedal the harder you can when calibrating, you may not be able to reach the maximum throttle while in game (at least, when you forget about it), except using a huge dead upper zone. I recalibrated and stopped pushing as soon as I felt the metal. Doing so, you still need a dead zone, but much smaller. I found myself very slow in ACC before realizing I was not "pedal to the metal".
*Brake* : I'll start from the mechanical point of view only. I started with the softer combination, because of the Thrustmaster set I used. The pedal quickly started to make a squeaky noise; I don't know if it comes from the spring or the elastomer. I switched to the almost hardest combination of spring and elastomer (shore 70). At first, it was silent, but it quickly started to make the same noise. You get used to it, but you also can't help but thinking there's a problem. I have not tried to remove the spring and use the spacer instead. Yet ...
From the feeling point of view : nice ! The hardest setting if even better. As I said, I have experience in sim racing, but that doesn't make me a good sim racer. And I have 5 years of T3PA Pro to forget. But I already can feel the improvements. Not huge in performance, but much more in pace and consistency.
*Clutch* : not a lot to say. Same remarks than the throttle regarding the calibration. I don't get it : you are using this clutch as a ON/OFF one ??? Wow ... I think you need a bit of progressiveness most of the time ...
I had a similar issue with the squeaking, although it was right out of the box with both the clutch and brake. It turned out to be the bushings. After lubricating them a couple times I haven't had any issues with it.
I've also found the same issue with calibrating the clutch and accelerator. Because the end stops have fairly soft silencers, the endpoints are a bit 'mushy'. I'm just careful to stop pressing right when I feel a little resistance, and then after the calibration, I put a little dead zone in.
@@ohgeez9971 Which type of lubricant did you use ?
@@pandacongolais I first tried silicone since it doesn't attract dirt but it didn't work for very long. I then used WD40. It took a couple times, so it seems it takes a bit for the lubricant to work itself into the joints.
Here's what SimLab recommends in the manual: As for lubrication ( ), we generally recommend WD-40 Specialist White Lithium Grease to lubricate moving parts (rotating and sliding). Also, do not forget the spring bolt which also sits in a bushing on the pedal arm.
@@ohgeez9971 Right, I didn't thought to RTFM. How stupid ...
Sim-Lab advise the WD-40 Specialist White Lithium.
Although a quick check brought me on the Heusinkveld site : they advise the WD-40 PTFE ...
Both tell the lubricate the rotation axis. None tells us what to do when the noise come from the spring and/or the elastomer ...
Thanks a lot anyway. I think I'll have to test one of these ...
With all these new quality pedals it gets really hard to decide which pedals to get :) VRS, P1000, Heusinkveld, VX-PRO
Absolutely, I literally came so close to getting each of the pedals. Saw these on dave cam, but no ther reviews so wasnt sure also someone said he wasn't using them anymore. Sent him a message last Thursday, he said was reviewing other pedal but once he had the XP1 were going back on his rig. That made my mind up, really I wanted the Asetek as I have the wheebase but just too many conflicting reviews (also I have a bad knee). Good luck with your choice, doubt you can go far wrong with any of them.
VX Pro
@@drchtct All a guess unless you've had time with all the pedals, I had 6 pedals in my list. All had great reviews so just comes down to gut feeling, absolutely positive I would have been over the moon with all coming from my CSL elite
not to forget Meca pedals...
@@iseeq72 Did fancy them but quite a bit more expensive than the others in the list, but a good price considering there hydraulic though.
Great Review as always! I also have these pedals since it was launched. I replaced the asetek invictas with these pedals and my left knee does not hurt anymore :) This is a keeper for sure!
Thanks Will for the review!! 😎
Please fix your software so Windows 11 stops deleting it every restart.
You can fix it by deleting end redoing the installation from the latest download.
@@RichardSchouteren Unless they recently updated the software, like real recently this doesn't work. I have to disable Real-Time Protection in W11 defender, which always restarts itself, it cant be disabled. (It labels RD as unknown software and refuses to install). Install race director, update to the newest version and Im good until I reboot and then W11 defender deletes RD, and I have to repeat the process.
I buy brand new pedals but Windows 10 won't let me instal the soft i can't use them 😭
Ordered at launch, been super happy with no issues. Great review!
Sim Lab XP1 or the VRS pedal set in term of feeling ? Which one is better in your opinion ?
Hi mate, I really need to know your thoughts, frankly what do you recommend those pedals or the VRS? I hope you answer this question, I am confused
Same here I’m leaning towards the VRS
Ive tried them at the expo. Expansive but worth the money. You can modelate the brake and throttle precisely. And they look fancy to. I am happy with my fanatec cls pedals that came with a loadcell too for 300$.
When I got my Forte I actually wanted to buy those. I am dutch, they are dutch, so that could be a good combination, but they werent selling yet, so I bought the Forte pedals because I wanted to upgrade them later with the T.H.O.R.P. cylinder and I just did that. I am happy with my choice, but I am pretty sure I would be happy with those as well. They look sick!
Have had the pedals for a few months now and have never had an issue with the accelerator pedal. As mentioned, you'll need a heel plate at additional cost and I ended up reversing the the pedal face for racing in socks. Stiffest spring will be a must with 60A elastomer (already installed) for most. Fantastic pedal set.
i had signal bouncing on both throttle and clutch. but setting a 5% top and bottom dead zone and that fixed it!
I upgraded my V3's with BPK to these XP-1's 6 weeks ago and it's a great upgrade. The V3's do feel a bit toy-ish compared to these and the extra customisation is fantastic. My only real annoyance with the pedals is the blue adjuster on the heel which changes the travel distance on the accelerator. It keeps coming loose no matter how much tension I try to put on the locking pin. Thinking of taking them to World's Strongest Man competition to see if those guys can do a better job, but aside from that these are excellent pedals for the money and I would highly recommend.
Great review :) finally bought these! hope I will appreciate the change with my CSL V2
Please make a ranking video for the pedals! I would like to know where my Invictas would stay.
Just bought the pedal set with the Boosted code. Love the channel and your reviews happy to support. I Don't like using a cheap spring on top of the load cell. my P2000 have a spring superglued for the throttle and after 9 months they're going out I'm getting ghost loadcell inputs and cross inputs when I press the brake it will register some throttle. I've given up on the Simagic P2000 plus the side to side play in the pedals themselves not 1k quality. Hopefully these serve me better
Wow great review, honestly you have some of the best Sim racing content , and have even surpassed Sim Racing Garage always providing us with the latest and greatest content . My one question on a personal level is I am so heavily into thrustmaster equipment , T gt2 base , 6 plus wheel , load cell pedals, shifter, hub , e brake and more but I want to go with a direct drive wheel set up that good for both pc and console, my budget is only 3000 grand maybe more if I can sell my stuff for around 600 plus , any great suggestions would be greatly appreciated .
Well, crap. I'm in the market for pedals next on my rig. I was torn between the VRS and VNM, but these have a much nicer 'refined' look and I'm accenting my rig in blue... Looks like I know what my next purchase will be.
I like how realistic the Vrs look, much more industrial
VRS are fantastic
Simgrade VX Pro look excellent too. I'm between VRS, Simgrade VX Pro and the Simagic P1000s.
@@lavachemist the VRS breaks are a dream to use. The simagic with haptics look good but never used them.
Vrs user here absolutely no complaints
Great and thorough review. Been debating between these and the Simagic P1000 will be anxiously waiting for your review of those to help me make my decision. I really take what you say into account when purchasing new gear and I appreciate the hard work and dedication you give us year after year.
Also wanting to hear about the p1000. I'm leaning towards the p1000 because there's room to upgrade. you can add hydraulics and haptics
@@joeyg369 same like you guys. I'm still deciding between the P1000 and these.. Has the Boosted Media P1000 review been released pls?
Fantastic video mate - literlly covered everything. I had the same distinct flickering issue with the throttle. I was worried I'd have to return set, but was pointed to the latest firmware release by thier responsice customer service and boom, flickering gone. Still disappointed that Sim Lab/Grid haven't done something to fix the shady/scary download you have to stress over for their software. Cheers!
How would you rate these compared to the Heusinkveld Sprints which I know you rate highly as well? Currently trying to choose between the two.
Hi Will, thanks once more for another brilliant review. I replaced my Fanatec v3's (with BPK) for these about a month ago. It shows that the v3 are becoming outdated, on an average track I am 0.5 seconds per lap faster with these pedals. Modulating the brakes goed much easier and braking is less tricky especially with cars without ABS. The design looks brilliant and it is really easy to swap out springs and elastomers. I had a small issue with the throttle, not going completely back to its original position after releasing the pedal. I loosened the pivot point a little which solved the issue, also informed Sim Lab on the issue. After a couple of days I re-tightened it and no issues since then, so maybe the lube/grease had to spread within the pivot point and the issue solves itself over time using the pedal. I also need to mention, although I have no issues with it having a large shoe size, is that the pedals are really high and that people with normal or small shoe size might need a heel rest to get their feet higher and maybe also need to mount the pedal plates upside down. I also informed Sim Lab about the Trojan warning coming from BitDefender and also from Windows Security if you kill BitDefender. I work in IT since 1997 so not much of an issue for me but can be a showstopper for the average user/consumer. Sim Lab informed me that there would come a software update this January to solve the issue .... so they still have some days left 🙂
Great video. Sim Lab XP1 or Simagic P1000?
Congratulations for your videos. ONE QUESTION, PLEASE: Between the Sim-Lab XP1 and the Simagic P1000 pedals, which is the best, according to your experience and your tests?
Thank you in advance.
this is highly personal. booth are good pedals. I switched from the P1000 to the XP1 because of better ergonomics for me
@@soldarknezz did you make improvement with the XP1 then? Thanks
@@chrisgatt7900 yeah, maybe not in direct lap times, but I couldn’t drive endurance with the p1000 and can do it now…
I have a set of Meca Evo1 pedals. You won't see elastomer blow-outs on those. I was also put off by Hall effect sensor issues (sensitivities) way back, ever since my Fanatec V2 throttle. Just an opinion but the load cell, on my throttle even if unpopular seems more robust to potential electronic interference. Never had issues with load cells. Speaking of, interest choice of load cell for simlabs' brake. Very smilar form factor to Fanatec. Seems a great price. Not my cup of tea though. Great review. 👍
Love the look of this thing. So sleek!
These look really nice and pricepoint is also welcomed. £430 here in UK which is close to the absolute maximum im willing to throw at a pedal set. Sadly this would not go well with my playseat challenge rig 😅 but we are allowed to dream arent we ?!
Are these only pc compatible? If not can these be used with a difference wheel for ps5?... Love this review
Great video from Florida Im looking to upgrade my stock G929 I like theses
another great video, I'm not in the market for new pedals but do like the look of this pedal set but please SimLab sort out that cheap floppy cable routing
I have a Conspit CPP Lite hydraulic pedals set but I don’t feel so comfortable with it. Do you think this pedals are the best load cell on the market?
man that price is nice would it be worth upgrading from Moza CRP pedals i love my CRP pedals allot though
What do you think, fanatec v3 pedals, asetek or this from Sim lab? Read reviews but can’t choose…
Just picked them up from Microcenter on sale for $299.00!
Great review!! I had the throttle jumping at idle issue as well. I didn’t see you cover a firmware update, it’s past the software section in the manual and I missed it at first, found it when I was troubleshooting this issue. The firmware update fixed the issue for me. Since mine was jumping so high the deadzone adjustment did not help.
I am having a sizing issue with the software, it is sized so big I lose the top and right third of the window. Resolution change did not help this, curious if anyone else has seen this?
Been itching for an upgrade. Currently running a 14(!) year old set of CST (Cannon simulation technologies) pedals. Probably got one of the last sets ever made, just before the fraud activity. I wonder how these compare. (Or VRS pedals)
thanks for the review ! if you check the p1000 you should test it whith the softest elastomers (grey) in my opinion it's a disaster combining with load cell !
The whole Pedal is a mechanical moving part, and the last thing left standing is the Hall effects Sensor, that will save us, funny stuff man
To those having the jitter issues, Iracing wouldn't even recognize the pedals because of the jitter, download the firmware update tool and flash the update. It fixes the jitter issues.👍🏻
would you recommend them over vrs and vnm pedals?
Any idea where to get a generic base plate that these would fit on - they don't appear to sell one.
Just got mine in today & after 5hrs of getting them mounted & everything setup been having issues with the throttle... IDK if its RD or what but in RD they calibrate fine & seem to work correctly but after I calibrate them in iRacing I lose like 10-20% on the top end & never can get full throttle unless i reallly press into the throttle IDK if its bad adjustment on the sensor or what waiting on a response back from Sim Lab
These look awesome...but my heart is still set on P1000. Hope that review is coming soon! :P
I ran my Sim Lab XP1 pedals yesterday and was consistently getting input noise. At first it was just the clutch pedal so I set a (7) dead zone so it wouldn’t interfere with in game settings.
But then once I went into a game the throttle pedal really started wigging out. I did everything I could to try and eliminate the problem I could think of.
I absolutely love the way these pedals feel and look but this is hella annoying. I’m going to fiddle with it for a bit again today but I’m not going to exhaust too many hours trying to get this interference to stop.
I got in a couple laps on a few different titles and LOVE THESE PEDALS! But the problem ended up happening in every game after a race or 3.
Hi, please contact our support, they will work with you through the issues.
Seems like a number of people have had issues with 'noise' on simlab discord ..
Mine arrive tomorrow -can’t wait
Hoping to get a Simagic haptic motor attached to the brake pedal for mine. Need to get on that 3d printer (but it’s not working atm 😢)
i have a fanatec dd1 and i have fanatec clubsport v2 pedals that have recently broken would you say its worth spending a bit more money to get xp1 or vnm or vrs pedals over fanatec clubsport v3s?
what would you choose between these and the VNMs?
Is there a software to change throttle-, brake-, clutch-curves for fanatec pedals? Fanalab or the driver itself doesn't seem to offer something like that.
i'd love to get this but their Pedal slider baseplate is still out of stock, my rig won't allow me to install separate pedal pieces. :(
Are you going to be looking at the new Moza R16/21 bases?
Invicta still wins over all others, damn im glad i did the buy on them
Thanks for the review, I decided on these after looking at many options but you had yet to review them now that its out im more confident on my decision, mine still have not arrived but looking forward to driving with them, you didn’t mention the blue screw on the bottom being a problem with socks, some users are complaining about it and that made me buy the heel rest plate to go along with the pedals..
Yo i wish you would include Australian pricing. I get the us market is huge, but as an aussie surely you could include the conversion ( so i dont have too 😅)
The conversion rate changes every day, making the video instantly redundant
@@boostedmedia Then that goes both ways. Also fixed buy simply stating 'at time of recording' .
I have until tomorrow to possibly choose between xp1 and p1000 for pedals , what gives a more authentic immersive experience would you say or even has a better value per dollar? I bought a bundle from micro center and they come with xp1 but a few Reddit users told me they’ve asked to swap for p1000 and they did so, now I’m debaiting which ( getting the xp1 2 pedal set for around 400$ brand new or p1000 3 pedal model for same price )
You’ll be happy with either. Personally I’d probably go with the P1000 though. Bit more versatility with their upgrade kits, etc.
@@boostedmediai appreciate the fast feedback, you’re my Togo to channel for anything sim news. Been researching for almost a year now putting money on the side to afford and finally got my set and absolutely hyped to pick up tomorrow, going from a g29 to alpha 15nm, gt bro wheel and xp1 pedals on a gt1 evo rig I bought all for 1500$ as a holiday bundle from micro center
@boostedmedia I had the exact same question, but probably wouldn’t have asked. Thanks for going through and answering these! They’re helping more than just those who ask.
I think if they can change the springs section to squared so it doesn't bend when pressed.
Picked up a triple pedal set of these a month ago locally at Microcenter. They dont seem to come in this color anymore, Mine were labeled "black edition" and are pretty much all anodized black and grey.
Best pedals I have used by far. Besides Windows 11 flagging race director software as "malicious content" and deleting it on every restart. Please fix this Simlab.
Be interested to know where v3 stand compared to all these pedals considering how old they are. Also will fanatec be making some v4 pedals?
i replaced my V3s with these and they are way better
I think they should come with a replacement for the outdated v3's. The CSL Elite v2's are much better braking wise and therefor you are going faster. At this point in time Fanatec has a lot of other issues to be solved first though. To my opinion Fanatec should maybe invest less in innovation for a while and focus more on 'copying' their Chinese competitors and challenge them with equal or higher quality products to keep the company financially healthy.
@@Frank_Steven_Groen Over 8 years with Fanatec, had the DD+ and V3"s on order for over two months to be told March (if I'm lucky) I cancelled last week and got a Asetek forte base and wheels (it's amazing) . I needed PS really but now I've made the decision it gave me so many options in pedals and bases, my XP1's have just arived so super excited. Bye the way Fanatec haven't replied to one of my emails for 7 weeks. They've turned into a disgrace.
I've had 2 major failures with the Throttle pedal, both times the bracket holding theagnetic sensor has sheared off the base of the pedal. Once may have been a flaw, but 2. The pedals are not fit for purpose.
Just bought the 3 pedal Black Edition, open box, unused from Micro Center for $548. Also picked up the Sliding pedal base with heel rest. Before buying these I purchased a set of Heusinkveld Ultimate + pedals for $1300. I hadn't mounted those to my rig because I was waitng for other items and the more I looked at them the more I thought they were overkill for me personally. I really wanted them, but I just didn't know if I needed them. Yes... I know how that sounds. So, I bought the XP1's and put them side by side with the Heusinkvelds and then made the decision to return the Ultimates and keep the XP1s. Now don't get me wrong, I'm not at all saying the XP1s are equal to the Ultimate + pedals, I'm just saying for me, I had trouble justifying the additional price. I'm 62 years old and was also considering how long I would be able to keep sim racing, given the leg and knee issues I have already had. I (maybe incorrectly) thought that the XP1's might be a little more comfortable considering the wider and curved pedal faces. I really hope I made a good decision. Thanks for a great review, Will.
were you happy with your decision?
@davedeja consider inverting the pedals. i heard it helps with discomfort!
Great review! I just wish they would've made them all black and not gray and black
I bought the two pedal set at micro center and they have an all black 3 pedal set there.
@@cnfredleader6597 Good stuff, thanks for sharing. I might be passing by a micro center Wednesday. Probably go check them out. Cheers
When I push the brake there is a klick sound at the end. Is this normal?
There is polish brand Girro Sim, you should review their pedals!!!!
Can these been inverted?
I’ve got asetek invicta but still getting used to tail brake with them.
Having same issues with the signal bouncing and absolutely no brake signal. :-( this seems to be a controller/EMI issue. Returning.
i have srp pedals which are pretty cheap. but i think tax time im gong to grab these pedals and hope it helps me on the dirt to be a little more precise on the throttle.. Or should i pay 140 more and get the p2000?
Moza SRP pedals? If so...I recently made the switch from Moza SRP to the P1000i and back to the Moza to compare.
The throttle pedal of the p1000 made more of a difference than the brake pedal for my times. Rally...no circuit racing tho. The P1000 feels much better than the SRP in terms of realism...much more adjustable and I feel the P1000 could suit anyone with it's range of adjustments.
Edit: just realized you said p2000 lol...I couldn't decide between the 1000 or 2000
@@Mike_Power awesome yea I’m trying to decide which ones to go with. I do dirt oval racing
@@CodyMcDonald89 I turned up the throttle preload all the way on its original spring and it was to my liking. This seems the case for most but if you want more resistance you can force one of the slightly longer extra clutch springs in there...some like it
I’m getting interference in me sensor for the throttle. It bounces all around when lightly pressing the throttle.. can’t figure out what the issue is.
Have you tried updating the firmware?
@@Suwsii not yet, may try that when I get home.
Hey everyone.
Am new in the world of simulators etc.. and have absolutely 0 knowledge about how everything works and it's compatible.
Slowly starting to build my house and will have a dedicated mancave as I want to have a room with simulators for gaming .
I have a budget of 20000 euros but I want to be able to play on PC/Playstation and Xbox.
Furthermore I don't care for motion simulators but I want it to be a hybrid option so I can race comfortably both as gt and f1 mode . As I race cars in real life pedals seat and steering must be of similar feel . Is there a chance you make a video regarding this budget?
How do they compare to Asetek Forte? Which one would you recommend?
Discussed in the video
@@boostedmedia looked the whole video but didn't hear a comparison to the Forte. You just mentioned VNM, VRS, Heusinkveld.
@@boostedmedia reviewed it. It was in the beginning. Thanks. But would you commend the Sim Lab over the Asetek? You said the Asetek are good for your type of racing style but if you configure the Sim Lab harder they should be like the Asetek, don't they?
That cable for the loadcell on the brake pedal would scare the hell out of me every time I changed the set up. It should be long enough that the stack is not restricted in its movement by the cable. It’s just asking for breakages
It's a really bad design. Shockingly bad.
@@Case_ it’s like they forgot that the component would have to move to change things out when they were designing it
if the trottle pedal have a 5cm course between 0% and 100% in 16bits that make 1 position every 0.000763 milimeters, so dw i think nobody on earth is talented enought to feel that
Is the pivot point of the pedal on bearings or bushings?
pressed bushings
Good quality, but the software with Windows 11 Pro comes with malware, which makes it difficult to load and use, I had to return them, greetings
Are you still beefing with simagic? Not one product review since you done the bulk review.
No. Those videos will be happening soon. Just lots to get through.
@@boostedmedia great news, CES is happening and every brand and their dog in now in sim ricing for some reason. most back log 👍
i still dont understand the prices of these things 3 sensors 2 springs and a little bit of metal for 500 bucks ☠️
for that money you can get a car with hundreds of parts how does this work
Prices (of anything, not just simracing stuff) are not dictated by how much it costs to manufacture things, they are dictated by how much people are willing to pay. Simracers are willing to pay a lot (because, as I just mentioned in another comment, simracing is essentially a hobby dominated by wealthy middle-aged men with way too much money on their hands, and also rather gullible) and so the prices reflect that.
I've had mine since just before Christmas and both the throttle and brake have got really squeaky to the point they can be heard in the next room, and the wall between the rooms is double skin solid brick, I can hear them over my headset. I've also had an issue where the throttle has lost a little calibration with the top end twice, so I've been losing time and then realised i'm only hitting 95%ish percent with my foot down. Last night the brake wouldn't calibrate at all, it was fixed at 100% and unplug/replug didn't help, had to reflash the same firmware version back onto the pedals for it to work again. Also the little side bolts at the front of the throttle worked loose and had massive side to side wobble so had to retighten those. I was full of hope but there have been moments where I've been tempted to put my T-LCMs back. Hopefully I'll get time this week to have a deeper look at the noise, the rest of it seems better now, so if i can solve that I might start liking them more.
Hi! They need to be lubricated, please check the manual, and read it carefully. (Page 15). For any other issue please contact our support.
Mine both started squeaking after 2 weeks. Took them apart and applied some white lithium grease to the rods that the springs are on specifically at the rear where it slides thru the plastic end cap, solved it.
For anyone landing here, reflashing the same firmware has fixed my throttle issues and it hasn't happened again, nor have the side bolts worked loose again, so all in all now pretty happy with them.
Solt out in their eu store.
Will can you talk to fanatec and try and convince them to give an update on the black friday fiasco ?
I’ve been talking to them a lot and am doing everything I can to try and encourage them to communicate as transparently as possible.
@boostedmedia thanks I and others will appreciate it... its a shame its gone this way and it's having such a bad effect on such a wonderful community 👍🏾
I know I'm going off topic, but it would be nice to make a video about the fanatec situation people are waiting since november for their orders. I know you may have a contract with fanatec and in that case I don't blame you for not doing the video, but if you haven't got a contract it would be nice to inform people about the situation and maybe making fanatec give updates about the situation of the clubsport formula wheel 2.5x, dd1 and clubsport dd+
I literally just bought P1000s a month ago. Hmm.
All these nice pedals, how about us console players
Micro USB? What is this 2020?
Nice, and a decent price to boot...pun intended 😊
i will keep my simforge pedals. why do these companies make high end pedals yet dont make plate from them for people with bigger feet i hate almost every pedal i have tried because of that and i have tried 5 diffent load cell pedal i landed on simforge mark 1 for $360 us think of getting the vmn lite pedal the face look big. i mean its so simple to sell some face plates come on for real
These Sim Lab pedals are excellent for people, with bigger feet so what is your issue? People with smaller feet will have issues probably and need a heel rest to get their feet higher or mount the pedal face plates upside down.
If these existed when I bought my sprints I’d probably have got these for less. Sprints are pretty decent but overpriced imo
$700 pedals are “reasonably priced“ ? lol. Wish I was living like you people. lol
Simracing, as presented by UA-camrs and/or people on r/simracing and such, is essentially a hobby for wealthy middle-aged men who have way too much money on their hands (and/or are sponsored by multiple manufacturers). Hence why so many people firmly believe a "reasonably priced" or "affordable" entry level setup consists of $1000+ DD wheel and $700+ pedals, all mounted in a $1000+ rig in a dedicated room. Because that's what they see on forums and on YT presented as normal and/or essential.
Get an education? 🤷♂️
@@Case_ wealthy middle aged men already paid their dues, worked hard, and deserve to have fun.
@@Gorilla_Jones I'm sure they have.
I was on board until I saw that it uses bushings instead of bearings. I worry that brake, in particular, will become sloppy with use.
Edit: also, the micro USB is an odd choice.
Pardon my pet peeve…but no manufacturer of any item with a USB connection and priced at anything over $20 or so should be using a mini or micro USB connection any longer. Just stop this already.
These 2 stage brake pedals don't make sense for sim racing since they're using a load cell. The first stage is supposed to simulate the empty space between the rotor and the pads. So the "click" at the end of the first stage is supposed to be the pads beginning to touch the rotors, which means up to that point there should be no braking happening. But since it's using a load cell its registering braking all the way through that movement.
I have the Asetek Invicta pedals since they came out and at this point I use that click as the max pressure of the brakes, because it makes no sense to have 50% brakes when it moves through the first stage, then 50% brakes using just pressure.
Whenever I replace these Aseteks I'm not going to be buying a two stage setup anymore, I also want something with move movement. 20mm is good, but it's limiting to learning proper braking for real sports cars since 20mm braking only applies to certain race cars. Not even all GT3 cars work that way, as it's been shown time and time again now with the Mercedes GT3 that has a significant amount of movement on the brake pedal. You can forget heel and toe shifting with these types of pedals too.
if the price would be "simple" 😅
I don’t see a reason for these to exist. Just more of the samw
😏😅
You should give the pedals to me :) - actually u could
$645 before Simlab's legendary shipping to the US costs. A non-starter.
I just pick up the 2 pedal set at my local Micro Center for $499 two weeks ago. Coming from the V3, consistency is so much better.
@@MrBrettb976
I completely forgot that Microcenter carries these...
Thanks for the reminder.
This channel never answers questions. 😢
Yes they can
I have the inverted mine on inverted mount on my rig
Second!
Sixteenth!
4548th
Am I the only one that thinks these look like a toy?
Yes 😄
@@Frank_Steven_Groen lol clearly you’re right 😂😂😂. Looks are very subjective 😅