I’ve been building my own rods for more than 35 years (and building/fixing some for friends), but I’ve learned a lot of watching these videos. (I even understood some of my mistakes!) Thanks for making them! Since I’ve retired, and have a lot of rods (mostly for fIyfishing), I thought I would never need to build another rod, but now I have to, simply for the joy of it. Thanks again!
Thanks for watching - please like and subscribe! You know, I made these videos to help new rod builders. It is so gratifying that someone with as much experience as you have finds them helpful. Thanks for sharing!
Falconer Custom Rods man would love to see some.efficient ways to do trim band, inlays etc, for guide wraps and tie offs. Always looking at easier ways to do things. Like the way you explain things in detail and up close.
Thanks for watching - please like and subscribe! You know...I have never thought of bore brushes. Depending on size and composition they might work well? To be clear I've never used them but here's my speculation. The thing about metal brushes is they polish/deburr the surface and are meant to NOT do damage or remove material. The ScotchBrite pad is specifically designed to surface prep and creates a static electricity charge that actually draws adhesive into the pores. So will bore brushes work as well as ScotchBrite? My guess: absolutely not. Will they work well enough...and be better than nothing? My guess would be yes. And they would certaily be easy to use and readily available. Again - pure speculation with ZERO data on my part but since you asked that's my $0.02. If you try them out please come back and let us know how it turned out. Good luck!
You see that you are very professional, you explain beautifully and clearly, I really enjoy watching your videos. I wanted to ask a question if this is possible, the spray you used, the orange, what material is it ? Thanks in advance
Thanks for watching! I appreciate the feedback. The orange and white bottle is just filled with 70% Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA or rubbing alcohol). I use the spray bottle for big areas and that little blue push down bottle for smaller clean up. Very handy stuff to have in the shop.
Great video just subscribed, retired and building rods now. Going to start with my own first but if I have any questions I’ll hit you if that is okay.Roy
Another great video. I sand the blank but never saw that idea for inside the reel seat. Quick question: should the reel seat be held on by the glue that’s on the arbor only? Or do you make sure to fill the gaps in between the arbors such that the glue holds on between blank and reel as well? I see conflicting thoughts about this online.
Thanks for watching! So...I personally favor full length arbors. In that case you are just bonding the reel seat with the glue that's on the arbor with no gaps. When I use one or two of the short arbors (which I believe is what you are asking about) I do NOT fill in the gaps. As I understand the physics - and based on my experience - filling the gap does not provide any additional strength (even with a paste epoxy). Or maybe said differently - the surface only bond is more than adequate to the task. But I DO always coat the shoulders of the arbors - the part that does not contact the reel seat - with a thin coat of Rod Bond to sort of encapsulate them and seal them up. Hope this makes sense...let me know if not.
Falconer Custom Rods yup was curious what you liked to do in the case of the short arbors. I haven’t had to do any repairs yet *knock on wood* and always wondered if my epoxy between the arbors was doing anything or just adding weight. Thanks for sharing your experience!
@@deuces2k KNOCK ON WOOD! Repairs are the one time I DON'T like Rod Bond...tough to get that stuff apart! I think it probably all depends on how that particular adhesive performs with different bond thicknesses. Some can form a strong bond with 1/4" or more glue line...like Rod Bond. In that case it probably does add some strength to fill the void. With a brittle liquid epoxy that struggles with bond thicknesses over 1/32"? Probably just adding weight. Someday the right engineer is gonna nerd out on Rod Building, test it, and give us all the definitive answer.
Nothing good to say about Coronavirus other than it has allowed you the time to post these awesome videos! I have a strange CP question. Fuji Ultra Poly thread, Flex Cote CP and Gen4 Resin. Five thread inlay in red thread, followed by black thread and another five thread inlay to finish on a guide wrap. Is it stupid to put CP on the red to prevent bleeding and leave the black uncoated for epoxy penetration?
So...I have never tried what you are suggesting so I don't know. The only way to find out for sure would be to try it (although I'd recommend some test wraps on a scrap blank). But generally speaking I'd say go all in with the CP or leave it out entirely. I personally prefer to leave it out but do whatever makes you happy. If it were me, I'd leave out the CP and use Fuji NOCP thread for the red color. Hope this helps...thanks for watching!
@@masteringrodbuilding I will do a test wrap w/out the CP and see how well the red and black behave. Will also try the partial coat idea. Just as easy to do two tests as one after mixing the epoxy! I see Andy's Gen4 Resin on your bench. Excellent product from a super guy!!!
@@masteringrodbuilding He now has a paste epoxy also. Based on the knife handle adhesive but expressly for rod building. For anyone wanting more info: gen4resins.com
I’ve been building my own rods for more than 35 years (and building/fixing some for friends), but I’ve learned a lot of watching these videos. (I even understood some of my mistakes!) Thanks for making them!
Since I’ve retired, and have a lot of rods (mostly for fIyfishing), I thought I would never need to build another rod, but now I have to, simply for the joy of it. Thanks again!
Thanks for watching - please like and subscribe!
You know, I made these videos to help new rod builders. It is so gratifying that someone with as much experience as you have finds them helpful. Thanks for sharing!
Great video. The use of arbors was very helpful. Some videos just show “tape” as filler. 👍
Glad to see the videos are coming again. Thanks for the help..
Hey Doug - thanks for watching. Hoping to get some new content cranked up! Let me know if there's anything in particular you'd like to see.
Falconer Custom Rods man would love to see some.efficient ways to do trim band, inlays etc, for guide wraps and tie offs. Always looking at easier ways to do things. Like the way you explain things in detail and up close.
Outstanding advice on surface prep. This topic is rarely mentioned on any of the other rod building sites! Thanks!
Try it...it makes a HUGE difference! Thanks for watching.
Спасибо за видео. Очень познавательно и полезно. Буду придерживаться вашего способа склейки.
Спасибо за просмотр. Я рад, что тебе понравилось
Bill: Have you ever used gun cleaning bore brushes for the inside of the reel seats? Seems like they would be a good way to go. Your thoughts?
Thanks for watching - please like and subscribe! You know...I have never thought of bore brushes. Depending on size and composition they might work well? To be clear I've never used them but here's my speculation.
The thing about metal brushes is they polish/deburr the surface and are meant to NOT do damage or remove material. The ScotchBrite pad is specifically designed to surface prep and creates a static electricity charge that actually draws adhesive into the pores.
So will bore brushes work as well as ScotchBrite? My guess: absolutely not. Will they work well enough...and be better than nothing? My guess would be yes. And they would certaily be easy to use and readily available. Again - pure speculation with ZERO data on my part but since you asked that's my $0.02.
If you try them out please come back and let us know how it turned out. Good luck!
@@masteringrodbuilding Thanks Billy. Just something that came to mind while watching. Your videos are exceptional. I have subscribed too.
You see that you are very professional, you explain beautifully and clearly, I really enjoy watching your videos. I wanted to ask a question if this is possible, the spray you used, the orange, what material is it ? Thanks in advance
Thanks for watching! I appreciate the feedback. The orange and white bottle is just filled with 70% Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA or rubbing alcohol). I use the spray bottle for big areas and that little blue push down bottle for smaller clean up. Very handy stuff to have in the shop.
@@masteringrodbuilding Thanks so much for the detailed answer, I will keep following your videos, hope for another one soon
Great video just subscribed, retired and building rods now. Going to start with my own first but if I have any questions I’ll hit you if that is okay.Roy
You bet - feel free to PM me or message me here. Thanks for watching!
For a filler, I saw Thrasher use cord as an arbor. Do you know what cord he is using? Guess I could probably ask him.
Another great video. I sand the blank but never saw that idea for inside the reel seat. Quick question: should the reel seat be held on by the glue that’s on the arbor only? Or do you make sure to fill the gaps in between the arbors such that the glue holds on between blank and reel as well? I see conflicting thoughts about this online.
Thanks for watching!
So...I personally favor full length arbors. In that case you are just bonding the reel seat with the glue that's on the arbor with no gaps. When I use one or two of the short arbors (which I believe is what you are asking about) I do NOT fill in the gaps.
As I understand the physics - and based on my experience - filling the gap does not provide any additional strength (even with a paste epoxy). Or maybe said differently - the surface only bond is more than adequate to the task.
But I DO always coat the shoulders of the arbors - the part that does not contact the reel seat - with a thin coat of Rod Bond to sort of encapsulate them and seal them up. Hope this makes sense...let me know if not.
Falconer Custom Rods yup was curious what you liked to do in the case of the short arbors. I haven’t had to do any repairs yet *knock on wood* and always wondered if my epoxy between the arbors was doing anything or just adding weight. Thanks for sharing your experience!
@@deuces2k KNOCK ON WOOD! Repairs are the one time I DON'T like Rod Bond...tough to get that stuff apart! I think it probably all depends on how that particular adhesive performs with different bond thicknesses. Some can form a strong bond with 1/4" or more glue line...like Rod Bond. In that case it probably does add some strength to fill the void. With a brittle liquid epoxy that struggles with bond thicknesses over 1/32"? Probably just adding weight. Someday the right engineer is gonna nerd out on Rod Building, test it, and give us all the definitive answer.
@@masteringrodbuilding Hahaha that would be me if i had all the supply/parts to try it out on!!
Nothing good to say about Coronavirus other than it has allowed you the time to post these awesome videos! I have a strange CP question. Fuji Ultra Poly thread, Flex Cote CP and Gen4 Resin. Five thread inlay in red thread, followed by black thread and another five thread inlay to finish on a guide wrap. Is it stupid to put CP on the red to prevent bleeding and leave the black uncoated for epoxy penetration?
So...I have never tried what you are suggesting so I don't know. The only way to find out for sure would be to try it (although I'd recommend some test wraps on a scrap blank). But generally speaking I'd say go all in with the CP or leave it out entirely. I personally prefer to leave it out but do whatever makes you happy. If it were me, I'd leave out the CP and use Fuji NOCP thread for the red color.
Hope this helps...thanks for watching!
@@masteringrodbuilding I will do a test wrap w/out the CP and see how well the red and black behave. Will also try the partial coat idea. Just as easy to do two tests as one after mixing the epoxy! I see Andy's Gen4 Resin on your bench. Excellent product from a super guy!!!
Jon Ramos that Gen 4 stuff is AWESOME! May do a video on that AND his epoxy!
@@masteringrodbuilding He now has a paste epoxy also. Based on the knife handle adhesive but expressly for rod building. For anyone wanting more info: gen4resins.com
@@jonramos2161 I know - it's featured at the 2:51 mark in this video!