Painting Thousand Sons Rubric Marines. Deciding which way to paint them.
Вставка
- Опубліковано 8 лют 2025
- I couldn't decide which way to paint my Rubric Marines. So I figured why not do both and work out which works best for me. So join me as I spend far too long painting 10 Rubrics and find out which way I've decided to paint them.
Army Painter Paints -
Warpaints range -
Necromancer Cloak
Fanatic Range -
Diabolic Plum
Magecast Magenta
Warlock Magenta
Spellbound Fuchsia
Ancient Stone
Pale Sand
Resplendent Red
Angelic Red
Legendary Red
Rainforest
Pharaoh Guard
Aqua Alchemy
Molten Lava
Lava Orange
Angel Green
Greenskin
Matt Black
Matt White
Purple Tone
Soft Tone
Magenta Tone
Strong Tone
Greedy Gold
Bright Gold
Death Metal
Plate Mail
Mithril
Games Workshop -
Retributer Armour
Warp Lightning Contrast
Vallejo -
White Ink
Synthetic Brushes(Brown handles) - Broken Toad Fugazi Series MK3
Synthetic Brushes (Grey handles) - Vallejo Synthetic
Natural Brushes(White handles) - Artis Opus Series S
Perfect! I just bought thousand sons and i was looking for a purple scheme
I'm glad the video helps. I'm really liking the purple scheme myself and the fanatic magentas are great for it.
Hi, I love this colour scheme and would love to use it on my own thousand sons army. I have a couple of (probably very stupid) questions as someone who's never painted anything before.
1. Do you thin down the paints at all when painting or just keep the brush wet?
2. You mentioned having shaky hands which is something I struggle with a lot as well. What do you do to help mitigate this and not end up covering half your model by mistake?
3. Do you prime at all or just go straight to the purple airbrushing?
Hey mate. They're not stupid questions at all, we all asked those sort of things when starting and I'm happy to help answer them.
1. I use a wet pallet and thin my paints at least a little bit on there. How much I thin them changes based on what I'm doing. For blocking in I only thin them a little bit, for layering and highlighting I think them much more.
2. The biggest thing I do is have a finger of my brush hand touching either the model or my hand holding the model. Even just your little finger touching your other hand or model will make a big difference. It sounds stupid but it works. You should also try to have your forearms resting on your desk, that helps too.
3. I prime before airbrushing. In this case I used Vallejo grey. Priming is still important if you're using an airbrush to give the paint something to stick to and stop it rubbing off.
I hope those answers help! Welcome to the hobby!
ah someone else with the fine detail Parkison's shakes
It definitely makes painting details interesting. But I'm pretty used to it by now so can normally manage thankfully.
Though I've never heard it called that haha
You can just put Retributor through the airbrush. I goes through fine with a .4mm needle, not tried with smaller.
For some reason I hadn't even thought of trying that. I might give it a shot. Thanks!
For me, coloring the details is very challenging. My hands are shaking which makes it impossible for me to color in more detail. Fortunately, this is easy to do with Necrons. I don't have the guts for Thousand Sons.
I find it comes down to how you brace your hands. Try having the little finger on your brush hand touching either your other hand or the model. For some reason this lowers, or stops, the shaking for me.
I never recommend the Retributor Armor rattlecan basing method. The quality of that can is abysmal, especially if you're priming outside; too much humidity and it gums up, too dry and it loses moisture and sprays the model with a dusty texture.
Yeah, if I ever decide to base models gold again, I'll use my airbrush. The can was way too much trouble.