WILL THIS SAVE MY EBIKE CHAIN - FITTING BAFANG SHIFT SENSOR SS01 AND MAGNET BRAKE CUT OFF SENSORS.
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- Опубліковано 30 кві 2022
- WILL THIS SAVE MY EBIKE CHAIN - FITTING BAFANG SSO1 GEAR SENSOR AND MAGNET BRAKE CUT OFF SENSORS.
#BAFANG #SHIFTSS01 #GEARSS01
HOW TO FIT Gear Sensor for BBS01 BBS02 BBSHD
SHIFT SENSOR SS01
GEAR SENSOR SS01
Do I need gear sensor bafang
Do I need brake sensors on ebike
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I just finished my Befang build. Never planned to get a gear sensor. I planned on using the left brake lever from the beginning, and it works fine. I adjusted the magnet/brake sensor so it will kill the motor immediately after I barely pull the lever in. A super quick flick of the lever is all it takes for smooth, quiet shifts. I also like that I can hold the lever in to cut the motor for as long as I want, like when downshifting several gears at a time. In the beginning I thought I'd keep forgetting to tap the brake during shifting but it's so engrained in my mind that I do this brake shift automatically on other bikes that don't need it by pure reflex.
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bro thank you!
Super quick flick to annoy yourself and tell how great it is when it does suxk really. Buy a normal controller and throw away tbose sensors, shifters and cables
I use this too or just stop pedaling when shift. It works great too.
For me I didn't want another cable/sensor. I've ridden motorcycles all my life and I'm used to having the clutch on the left where the rear break is. It seems natural to grab the rear brake with 1 finger just slightly so the motor disengages but the brakes (caliper in my case) aren't doing much. Make the gear shift and let out the rear brake.
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I like that idea, going to try it. Thanks
exactly what i do,figured it out within minutes.
Yes this. I don't have a gear shift sensor either. Anyone familiar with manual transmissions doesn't need the gear shift sensor.
You don't need to touch the brakes , just let off throttle , shift then ease on the throttle it will shift smooth.
I have ridden ebikes all my life and the sensor acts like a quickshifter and they dont come with a slipper clutch. Try to go down gears in a Hayabusa with no slipper clutch
The programming cable is a must IMO, you can do handy things like:
1. Have the throttle always at the same level instead of increasing with the display's level.
2. Set speed limits as well as speed increments so you have a more smooth increase in speed rather than blasting off when you go from level 1 to 2 (feels a lot more natural to ride)
3. Change the low battery cut-off, which will help if you want to either increase range or increase battery longevity.
4. Set starting current - this was my biggest issue at first, from first using my motor when you start to ride or after you change a gear it would push way too much power through the chainring, I just set it a lot lower and when riding it didn't feel like my bike was trying to eject me from the seat haha.
Also yes there is a stop-delay setting, I think it's only 1 setting which works for both the brakes and gear shift sensor, although it may just be that the starting current is too high so I'd suggest lowering that first and if it still feels too rugged then have at it.
Re-watched and the fact it changes fine in level 1 but not any higher suggests it's 99% going to be a starting current problem
@@MiloDavis93 Thanks, have bought programming cable so will be having a look 👍
I second this, programming cable is a must, especially if you change controller display, 1-5 pas or 1-9 pas, its the programming the motor controller is only way to alter speed variables, that or a egg display.
Or 1 step: throw away bafang shit and buy a normal controller
@@mikethomas6051 it's a must to annoy yourself, you can skip all of that
I ve got a motorcycle light switch which has a horn button and I’ve used the horn button as same way the brake sensors work and just press the button as an momentary engine kill for as short or as long as you want this works great for me👍
Yes that sounds great and would work better than the gear sensor
Dude that’s brilliant
Probably a bit late to comment on this, but i'll do it anyway, i have my gear sensor on the shifter side, and connected to the brake sensors via a y cable. The brake sensor cut off is longer than the gear sensor, makes shifting easier.
Never too late to comment... 👍
Thanks, BACONBUTTTIES. It is the one way to stop road bike with it's original shifters.
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I bought a button that mounts on the bars and plugs into the brake sensor socket, you just press it when changing gear, I have a shimano nexus 8 speed igh and a half link bmx chain, works a treat with my BBSHD and leccy bling ring
I think that might be the route I👍 go with
I am second Bafang for my recumbent trike. The first was a install from a shop in Phoenix. My experience so far is that I shift on the lowest power settings . I also have been watching some UA-cam videos on this topic. One suggestion was lighty squeeze the brake and work as a clutch. It takes practice of course. A work in progress for sure.
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I have had that brake cut off nonsense with my hydraulic brakes too. I decided the better system would be something you put on the actual lever and when you squeeze it it brings 2 cantacts together that would be held apart by a spring and then the cut off would happen, and its all enclosed. The magnet on a bit of sticky pad is a daft idea
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I had the same problem so I start to use the break when I change gear it helps
Yes I use the brake as well now 👍
Greetings from Southern California, USA. Last April I built an eBike with a Bafang BBS02 and added the brake and the gear sensor. Even with the gear sensor it is clanky but not everytime I shift. Once every five times maybe. I am not sure if the sensor is not working right or if the derailleur has to be adjusted. I like the Bafang but I don't. It's fun and gives e all the power I want but I would have preferred a torque sensing motor so I am going to switch the Bafang out for a Tongsheng for torque sensing.
I got rid of my bafang and am using a CYC X1 gen 3 motor and am finding that far better and don't need a gear sensor.
I went through exactly the same as you are experiencing and came to exactly the same results, ie its not perfect but it works lol.i do think you will gain by having the interface cable, I use an eggrider controller so can make adjustments on the fly if something is not quite right.
Yes it's not perfect but like you said does work. I have just ordered the interface cable 👍
Before making any programming changes it's imperative that you read & save the original settings!!!
If you go and program certain settings without reading the current settings it will rewrite all the settings you didn't set as well (usually with settings that brick the motor until you program everything).
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Good job 😊
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Nice Video. I have a usb to bafang cable and open source software that works but can not change that much.
I just touch the brakes when changing gears, there's some slack so no drag and it cuts the motor out.
Thanks, I have started using the brake method.
You can make many changes to the motor with the interface cable and software. I have the BBS02b motor and dialed down lots of things so that it'll last.
I have ordered the interface cable so will be having a look 👍
And all of that useless. 02 stock controller sucks even in comparison to hd and is unfixable
As a side note for anyonne watching a year later, in my experience, higher end drivetrains don't really crunch on ebikes. They are SIGNIFICANTLY more expensive, but if you have the extra money, i would invest in sram GX eagle if at all possible. X01 if you really want to go all out- it will certainly last a lot longer. I have a full gx drivetrain right now, but once the cassette wears out, im going to an X01. Oh, and 12 speed eagle chains can be used on the 40t lekkie bling ring.
I agree, the better the drivetrain the less crunchy.
I got one I hope it will work well
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properly configuring the motor settings is a must obviously, a caution note on that in just a moment.
shift sensor is important to have, but note that the motor cutoff duration is significantly shorter on the shift sensor port than on the brake cutoff port. The simplest way to add a manual cutoff (like a clutch on a car), is to wire a simple pushbutton to one of the brake cutoff ports. these pushbuttons exist for motorcycle horns, typically have a red plastic button overa momentary switch.
back to reprogramming: I have a lot of experience with lots of bafang motors, but in recently purchased motors (2023) the controllers seem to develop a serious bug upon programming. very likely, the PAS will be disabled completetly, only with a lot of chance you can reactivate it by fiddling around randomly with read flash / write flash / power off / unplug cable.
I have managed to save 2 out of 3 controllers wasting a lot of time doing this random stuff, one of them is still inactivated
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Try a drop of superclue on the end, after you cut the cable. So it can't get loose next time
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I've just fitted one of these to my bike but the problem I had was it has minimal outer casing on the gear change cable, just a little bit between durailer and frame and a bit between change lever and down tube, the rest is exposed cable, so I ended up sticking the sensor to the lower chainstay frame with 3m tape and cable ties, it works but found any vibration through the frame from uneven roads was setting it off, so I was getting a power pulsing sensation as the motor kept cutting on/off and that wasn't nice on my knackered knees.
I've just ordered an extension cable and will try fitting the sensor up between the cable casing between the gear lever and downtube to see if its better, if not its in the bin.
Also as you asked about programming I can't see anyway of altering the length of time the motor stays off for as the settings I see via the programming cable only shows ways of speeding up how quickly the motor stops when stopping pedalling to stop the overrun you speak of.
I would prefer some sort of switch on the handlebars, but like other people I stopped relying on the gear sensor and feathered the brake lever to actuate the brake cut off sensors.
You can get a button for the handlebar that plugs into one of the brake sensor wires but some people complain it gives like a 2 second cutoff, you can get a Y connector to give a split on one of the brake sensors if using both brakes and button.
I never bothered when I ran my BBS02 750W and covered 1,000 miles of commuting to work and back at level 9 most of the time and never had any chain breakages, the only problem was killing a crap battery off in a year, now I've just fitted a BBSHD and a better 52v battery I thought I'd give the gear change sensor a go but if I still have issues with it cutting in on my poor roads I will ditch it.
Nice one mate.. I used hot glue for the brake sensors as it sets quik and not destructive if u have to remove it. The speed app on ur fone gives u alot of parameters to change :) yer u can us e break levers like a clutch but no good for some people. U can reduse the start power and there is some delay settings u can change.
Thanks, I have just ordered the interface cable👍
@@baconbuttties both parts?
@@smokinstud1 I ordered part for the phone and the bit that goes to motor 👍
Yes hot glue is very easy to use and can fill in gaps and it will stay on until you need to move it I used the 3M tape to set it up and Mark it then glue it go to cyberbikes Felipe will teach you how to shift with brake sensors no gear shift sensors thanks MD
You can change gear with brake cut of power. Short pressute on brake and thats it.
Yes seems the best way 👍
A friend had the delayed shut off issue (same display as you). We tried another display and the delay went away. It suggests a faulty display. There are things you can adjust with the USB cable regarding cut off timing, but if your display is faulty, it will never work right. If you have a friend with one, just swap them over and try.
Programming - Great info here. A Hacker’s Guide To Programming The BBS02 & BBSHD
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Yeah I think a Shimano Nexus is the way to go with Ebikes. Especially if a mid drive is being used.
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I have one and it does work, I disconnected it for a while and just touched the brakes when I changed gear, my levers cut the motor, but sometimes I did forget.
I use an ebike chain from kmc hoping this will last.
Another option is ditch your drive train and use a Shimano geared hub, which is what I wanted but my bike is thru axle and it's an expensive option, if my bike had regular drop outs I would definitely switch to a geared hub.
Yes geared hubs do look good but the fatbike axle is 195mm width 😱 so I don't think there are any of them around 👍
@@baconbuttties ah yeah your probably right there, I didn't think about that most will be around 135mm
@@acelectricalsecurity 👍
@@baconbuttties your can either use the app or a laptop with the bafang cable, there is a setting there for motor cut off, after you stop peddling not sure if that's the same for gear changing, but I think the standard is 250ms, there's loads of settings there, a lot I don't know what they do.
If you use an eggrider V2 you can do the same but wireless.
@@acelectricalsecurity Thanks 👍
I just added a freewheel sprocket on my bike .. with a strong enough motor ..you don't really have yo peddle that much peddle assist handles much of the load .. also I got the biggest front sprocket 52 teeth . .. it was running a rear hub motor though
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I've found that if I use my thumb throttle to set off or to change gears, it overrides the pedal assist so it's not on or off. But I think I'd still be better with the sensor as I'd tried using the brake to turn off the motor, but its not responsive enough to get a smooth change.
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@A8W can't with hydraulic brakes, but I've got the sens9now and it's perfect solution
I have a bagang motor i pretty much constantly use the throttle when I change gear I have been doing the exact same I go down to 0 on my display peddle to change gear then turn it back on.i snapped one chain within a month but that day I was pulling wheelies rode off then few mins later it snapped
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I would check the chain line, it may be the chain drifts too hard to the left because of the chainring is too big if possible try a smaller chainring and see if that doesn't improve your chain line
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Nice one. It will be very interesting to see how easy the motor is to program.
I see the shift sensor uses a small wheel inside which the gear cable slides on. Would anyone know if there are different size wheels in some sensors hence making the delay on the motor fractionally longer? Or possibly the wheel inside yours is slipping? Either way I’d imagine a bit of fine tuning the program on the motor will solve it.
I think the delay is all in the programming. A few people have said the Bafang is easy to program 👍
@@baconbuttties kind of, you need the right software, luna cycles have a good version, always save the original settings before altering and do changes in small amounts, there are a few settings you don't touch which is colour coded in the software to let you know.
@@mikethomas6051 👍
i have a shift sensor on my bike but it's not exactly a precise thing, some times the timing is off. I dont think its necessary for shifting up gears , where the chain is dropping down to a smaller cog. But when you are shifting down, or the chain needs to hook onto a gear and climb up to a larger cog, that is when you don't want the motor to engage. So just hit the brake like a clutch when you are shifting to a lower gear where the chain has to jump up to a larger cog.
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Mine works fine changing up for me its like a quickshifter on a MC , the key when you are changing down is not to grab a shit load of gears MC's dont like it as well unless they have one.
I have Shimano 7 internal gears. Shifting takes forethought, as I approach an up-hill grade coast to the base of the hill. Placing my gear in first before I need to begin peddling. I’m not racing, I want my e-bike to get me around with the least amount of stress and strain to the system. Just take it easy don’t over do it…
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Im looking into a variable throttle to control mine rather than the peddle assist, so I can just release the thumb throttle to change gear, greetings from Tredegar😊
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Perhaps activate the brake sensor when changing gear to momentarily cut the motor
Yes I ended up doing that as it's much better 👍
There is a one button device that would probably work with gear sensor. That’s my plan. Search for BBS01/02/HD Push Button Ebike Ebrake
A push button is what I should of bought as it's a better solution 👍
Before doing anything with the app read all and save the settings :) I didn't:(
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My gear sensor failed, no doubt due to the winter conditions so rely on using the rear brake like a clutch with a cut off sensor
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No it won't. It will extend the chain life but the 160 NM of torque on the bbshd eventually destroyed My chain, freehub and rear gear sprocket.
How many miles did you go before failure of components?
I have this feeling that if you had made the device more secured from moving by tightening the shell rather than the cable that work even better
It wouldn't make any difference to the function. It is software related on how long the delay is.
Where did you by your mid drive kit from please?
I bought it from AliExpress. I will have to look up the link 👍
Cool film
I still have to fit my gear sensor , I didnt think Id need it but after seeing this i think I will fit it
I also had to bodge fit my brake sensors the same way you did, but my magnet fitted inside the lever casing
I think the proper way is to un thread the cable all the way , thread the magnet on and slide it back to the lever , then thread the whole cable back through and connect to brake end , is a fiddly job , Glad my bodge is no worse than yours ,haha cheers
Yes there must be many different ways to fit brake sensors. I have hydraulic brakes and I think it is the only place I could put it.
It looks ugly but works 👍
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When i was installing my brake sensors i put the two small magnets with the holes on the table separately and they attracted together and 1 completely shattered into 3 pieces and would not go back in place together without flipping over (north south pole attraction) lucky i had a small cube rare eath magnet on hand... it was to strong as is so i broke it up with a hammer and the piece i got out of it was perfect! Heat shink covered my magnets anyway the way mine was set up, so anyone reading this about to do this job keep your magnets together or WELL apart 🤣
Same thing happened to me, both magnets shattered when attracted to each other. Had to buy a pack of magnets of eBay.
@@baconbuttties hahaha true!!! There must be loads of other case's out there to of this happening! thanks for sharing i got a little giggle out hearing that! Im with you brother👍🤪😁🤗
@@rossg9363 👍
if all else fails, lightly squeeze the brake, but not enough to apply the brake, the hall sensors you have on the brakes cut the motor, a little like a motorcycle clutch.
Yes I have been using the brake to go up the gears... Seems the best way. I wish I had installed a handlebar pusn button instead of buying the gear sensor 👍
@@baconbuttties if you get hold of the bafang cable operated brake,rather than the hydraulic brake hall sensor, that has a switch operated system, you could modify that. it would need to be lever operated though not push button as it cuts power in the open position.
@@garymartin557 👍
@@baconbuttties been thinking, and think i have thought of a better solution which will cost you nothing extra as you already have everything you need. the switch is a great idea, but it's mechanical, and everything mechanical can break. by using the hall sensor and magnet probably a better solution. so here goes. you still have the thumb throttle which comes in the kit. take this and cut off the wiring. fit to the bar, attach the magnet to the rear of the thumb lever. place the hall sensor on the bar. when you press the thumb lever it takes the magnet outside of the field of the hall sensor and cuts the motor. spring loaded so it returns and power restored. this method will be clean and tidy with no excess furniture on the bar.
@@garymartin557 I like that idea 👍
Buy a proper bike cable cutter and put a drop of super glue on the end of the cable and it won't fray. Still use a ferrel after you are all done.
I think I did put a bit of epoxy on the end eventually as I had run out of ferrules.
just ordered mine, can i use the break to cut the motor and change gear and power up after, does the motor cut off as soon as the breaks are on?
Yes, I have been using the brake lightly to cut power.
If you stop pedaling doesn't the motor stop until you pedal again? If you stop pedaling for a second or two isn't there enough motion to shift gears?
You stop pedalling and there is a slight delay and then it stops. Gears will not change until you start pedalling again but it is not progressive and the power comes on to much which puts to much torque on the gear system through changing.
Can’t you make the shift sensor into an on off button like a clutch?
Probably could 👍👍👍
will slightly applying the breaks do the same thing?
Yes, that's what I ended up doing 👍👍
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Get the cable for sure. The standard software is the Penoff but I also suggest a phone USB adapter & the Speed app, so you can make changes as you experience the need.
Your standards are too high for the gear shift sensor. Even a human rider will experience "clunkiness" while changing gears under load. That's an inherent problem in changing gears and is why motorcycles and cars have some sort of clutch to cut power while changing gears. I personally always install a shift sensor but coming from a bicycle background I still stop pedaling to shift gears. Even with a hub motor it's a good practice, if you're pedaling, to stop pedaling while shifting gears.
I think my standards for the gear shift sensor are valid as many others have experienced the same issue. I don't keep pedalling when changing gear initially but you have to pedal for the gear to change. My problem is as soon as you pedal the torque from the motor kicks in and full torque on a chain when changing is not the best practise . Shifting up is more problematic but now I just feather the brake cut off switch.
@@baconbuttties Sounds like you need to fiddle with the power up delay &/or the power cut off settings in the programming. The gear shift sensor helps but isn't perfect.
@@michaelsprinzeles4022 👍
How do you cut the external casing without accidentally cutting the gear cable?
You pull the inner cable out first before you cut it then thread it back in
@@baconbuttties I have internally routed cabling and was hoping to avoid that. Thanks for the reply.
@@4U2MUL8 I didn't pull the cable all the way out.
Just enough to cut it, if that makes sense.
Thats a strange road u were driving on..looks like driving in a maze...the hedges basically replacing ditches on the side of the road. Im sure a lot of animals jump out the hedges as well
Quite a lot of roads like that around here. Squirrels are what usually jump out 👍
I'm with most others here, tap the brake handle.
I would agree, it is the best way.
sir i hve a question i hav buffan 750 my rear cassete when its on 5 gears its working perfectly and i down the gears on 4 or 3 2 its slipping very hard sound like my motor will be blast or something what is the issue this it is possible with the setting kr change the chain or cassete??? plz reply❤❤
Could be a number of things. Chain alignment might be too far out and have you adjusted the derailleur after fitting the Motor?
@@baconbuttties no i don't
Adjust the derailleur after fitting the motor you have any video to ajdust derailleur properly ?
@@ahmadahtezaz1408 I don't but there are some on UA-cam
@@baconbuttties thanks buddy
Shifting gears go to cyberbikes Felipe will teach you how to shift with brake sensors UA-cam
I've been using the brake sensor technique.
No problems at all when feathering the brake levers 👍
I dunno ha ha ha ha
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BAFANG SHIFT SENSOR is useless. I installed one, and every bump on the road triggered it. So my bike was always loosing power to the motor because it think I was changing gears. Don't waste money, just gently press the brake before changing gears.
Never had that problem with bumps triggering it?
You installed it...
Bruh, its been 5 secs of vids JUST PRESS SLIGHTLY THE BRAKE WHILE SHIFTING THAT WAY MOTOR IS DISCONECTED, also pedal assist is useless i mean is the same if you just push throtle and the pedal the only difference is the motor actuvates while you pedal is not assisting is doing literally 90% of the job no
I use pedal assist a lot so I wouldn't call it useless.
I wanted to try the gear sensor to see if it was any good and on the down shift it works fine, not so good shifting back up.
I already had used the brake lever method on previous builds and it is the best way 👍
@@baconbuttties i agree i mean in my cointry is ilegal the throtle but is basically the same your bike has levels of asist the sensor will put thag amount of level of speed but the throtle you just do it by you finger the only advantage is that your thumb is free but is bot an assist is the a throtle but activates by the sensor while you pedal the problem with middrives is that you gonna if you shift the motor will Crush the chain some people say the sensor works but is cheaper just pull brakes you can shift normally
@@leonardolarocca1999 yes the chain will break eventually if you change gear on full throttle.
Feathering the brake is the best way unless you don't have brake sensors 👍
couldn't you just stop pedaling and wait for motor cut off and then change the gear?
No because you have to pedal for the gears to change. As soon as you touch the pedal the motor kicks in.
@@baconbuttties Hmm, so i guess one should add a delay on PAS system to solve this?
@@missakhaladjian yes 👍
Good video 👍👌
My BBSHD kit came complete with the Shift sensor cutout, like you mentioned in your video it helps but doesn't solve the issue completely.
I solved this issue with Glueing
(5 min Araldite) a N52 Neodymium magnet to each Brake lever. (5mm × 8mm round) then using the Standard Brake cutoff sensors. I adjusted lever so it had a bit of free play & magent / sensor was not engaged when lever was pulled in about 1/4 of its range of travel.
By doing this I pull in the Brake lever slightly without engaging the brakes, this cuts the motor untill gear has successfully engaged then release the lever (similar method to riding a motocycle clutch)
I found this method to be the best & smoothiest so far. Hope that helps. Happy Trails 🚵 🍻
Also as someone has also mentioned, use a good quality KMC chain & all metal gear (close ratio) rear cassette will help.
I
I have been using the left brake lever like you said and it does seem to be the better option for changing gears. Thanks 👍
@@baconbuttties I been riding off road on rough trails 99% of the time & the epoxy has held strong 💪
As long as you rough the surface slightly on both magnet & Brake lever surface it should last... knock on wood 😏😬✌
@@oze-bikes4life663 Fingers crossed 🤞🤞
@@oze-bikes4life663 nice! neodymium N52 magnets are the most powerful magnets available of rare earth magnets! I own a couple of BIG n52 magnets stored in special timber cases each stored stuck to my shed metal wall high away from anything, just 1 can change a analogue liquid compass Direction 180° from a couple of meters away! I wouldn't dare put them together to test further rang because you wouldn't be able to get them apart without a special magnet slide tool let alone they would crush bones! Both magnets each have a 250kg pull power so thats 500kg if they are put together... its a serious grade magnet at any size💪 nice👍
Can confirm kmc chains good to use.