Excellent breakdown! ThxU! Quick question. Can you use the power output gauge to insure that you’re not stressing the inner & outer drive train. I’ve got a 620 Ultra and virtually never drive the wattage into the 750-1000 range! Usually, a simple downshift or harder pedal will drop the wattage on a hill or starting out! Should this be the goal or am I missing something? PS: Would an RPM gauge be helpful?
It’s preferable to have more speed (rotation) than torque when the motor is performing, that means is better to be on lower gears (1-2-3) let the motor Rev higher then you shift the gear up. Keeping it below 1000w is good for the motor but doing it in the wrong gear will still cause damages. Please watch the following video, it should answer all your questions ua-cam.com/video/jb3v5Y0Q2l0/v-deo.html
Basically the best way to looking at properly using your gear Cadence is to compare your cycling to that of an 18 wheeler semi truck. Semi trucks use a gearing to be able to move forward. If they did not use all their gearing they would blow the engine. This holds true with an e-bike.
The old bbs02 was set with the throttle as priority over the PAS.. This allowed you to use a really low PAS setting and add throttle along with your leg power and it kept the heat and stress down.. It also felt natural.. Then they changed it when the newer bbs02-b came out.. Now the PAS is priority over throttle.. This ruined the drive.. While your turning the pedals the throttle won't work ( unless you pin it to full throttle which is obviously bad for the motor).. I built several of these and the first thing I do is cut the grey PAS wire!! PAS is stupid!! With no PAS you just ride it like a bike and add power with the throttle when you need it.. The PAS numbers 1-(3,5,or9) now act as what amps your throttle controls.. If you can program the controller set PAS 1 to say 15% ( of the 25 amps) 2 to 25% and so on until 9 is full amps 100% or 25 amps.. You can even set 9 to 90% just for piece of mind (or a customers bike).. You will be surprised that you can ride all day in say 6 and it has plenty of power.. Your bike will feel 100% more natural to ride, your drive will never overheat and your range will increase.. If your really low on battery you can go into PAS 1 and just tap or blip the throttle to keep your momentum up.. 🍻
Hi, thanks for the hint. I just bought a BBS02B and I didn't know of that change. Definitely agree with you: PAS is stupid. Where is that grey wire located? Inside the chassis?
If you pull off the controller you can find it there, or you could pull the side cover off and remove the big main drive shaft /gear (the one the pedals attach to) .. Behind that gear there is a plastic disc with a magnet on it, if you remove the magnet the system will not "see" you rotating the pedals. Then you can pedal the bike and add 1% - 100% variable throttle,, the combination of variable throttle and your leg power is natural, smooth, efficient, and fun. @@jstolba
The BBS02B and BBS01B don't have torque sensors in them from the factory, I don't think the BBSHD does either.. As far as cadence is concerned all your speed and odometer data is picked up by the magnet on the spoke that is read by the speed sensor so you still get speed and distance readings @@esayed
I'll join the chorus of bewildered people. Those are high quality videos, of a professional showing us around his workshop & going way deep into the gear that we are oh-so-very interested in. I do not get it how is it only like 1.5k subs.
Awesome video!! Thank you so much for sharing these issues and tips to avoid them (shift!!!). I really appreciate your incredible experience gained from supporting and maintaining these systems. Your word is gold.
Thank you for your words, I wish the world was full of people like you, your positive energy and consideration can move mountain. Continue like that and we will have a brighter future! All the best
Thank you so much, I have a bbshd that when I pedal and I'm pushing hard with no motor help, or straight motor it releases almost like I'm switching gears but I'm not. I replaced inner and outer gears on right side thinking that maybe they were letting go under force, but it didn't change anything. I will continue to look deeper. If you did a paid channel that would give parts numbers and help source things like bearings and go deeper in to troubleshooting ebikes, sourcing parts for all pev. I would pay. I spend hours doing research to find better ways to do repairs and I would be willing to stock it all in the US because it is a nightmare here. Thank you for the video, amazing
Hi Thank you for your insights, we will try to work around stocking Bafang parts. From what I understood from your description, you most likely have a frozen chain link or a worn cassette sprocket or a worn out chainring (less usual but happens)
I hate it when I'm interested in an ebike, and 2mins in, the reviewer shows total incompetency, and a lack of understanding of tools in general. There's one guy who always assembles on grass....right next to pavement! Companies are sending test bikes to those who just complain about "their way, versus the manufactured build" Everybody wants speed, that's not why you're on a bike, you own a car, that goes fast. I want consistent charges, and reliability. Fast usually mean faster wear out. There's a fine line, and some are just going too far.
hi Felipe, thansk for the amazing video, so easy to understand and enjoyable. i have a question, currently my bafang motor does not run and i suspect it is the nylon gear. if i pull back the bike i can hear loud clicking sound from the pedal. just like your feedback if my diagnose is correct
Hi Lawrence, thanks for your words. About your issue, you have to be more specific, when you say it doesn't run do you mean there's electrical power, you throttle the motor and you hear a clunky clicking sound coming from the motor?
Which Bafang motor and front chain ring (42T, 44T, 52T etc) would you recommend for a 2013 Diamondback Response XE29? I already have a two 20ah 48v batteries from my other hub motor bike. I am looking to make a 43 mile, somewhat hilly commute about 3 times a week. My state considers anything above 750w unlawful, so there's that. Thanks in advance.
Excellent video, thank you. Can you please give details of the socket type and size used for the torque wrench. I need to buy one of these. Many thanks.
Thank you for your video. Excellent explanation! I'm up to buy a Bafang 750W motor. I've seen that many people complain about the excesive resistance on the motor when pedaling alone. And that it hapends after some time, at first it was ok. Is maybe the problem of overtightening the bottom bracket nut that you mentioned in the video? That distorts the haul pipe and so afects the bearings. Thanks
Yes exactly. That issue could be due to overtightening the bottom bracket nut. Glad you enjoyed the video! Cheers, please help our channel grow and give us a good review on Google g.page/r/CX0AoVbmxOSwEBM/review
Good video! So I noticed a squealing sound coming from my BBS02. I took the plastic cover off, and it sounds like it's right where the pinion is. The sound only comes when i'm pedaling WITHOUt assist. So once assist or throttle is engaged, there is no squealing sound. I regreased it all today because I figured maybe it was rubbing or something? Not sure what to try next to fix it.
Great video! Sometimes on long rides my motor completely stops working like it’s not getting power. This only happens for a short period then it comes back on. Is this this normal if I’m using too much power?
Good video. In your opinion, are Bafang motors adequately lubricated from the factory? I'm about to purchase two of them. Also, how many tooth chainring should the average rider use in your opinion?
Thanks for the great video. Is the damage from over-torquing the motor shaft instant? The "second time" tightening that nut I may have exceeded the spec by a lot. Other than loosening the nut to 80N-m is there anything I should be watching out for? Its a 750W BBS02 with only about 200km so far. Regards, Randy
Yes and yes pay attention to the bearings that are inside housing, the roller bearing gets damaged by over tightening the nut that holds the motor to the bottom bracket
Most of the gearshift errors are from using too small/ low of a gear and applying too much force/heat. Are their issues from too high/large of a gear and wide open throttle?
Dear Felipe, thanks for your video. Regarding your first problem, I covered the gaskets you showed with silicone and then painted them black. Since this was handmade, it does not look good, but I'm almost sure that water will not go in from there. (I cannot upload the pictures here). Is it common for the water to go inside the motor through the bearings? Of course, I'm not riding in the river. Now, regarding the motor effort that you referred to later, my granny has 36 teeth. Would you suggest a smaller front ring? BTW, my cassette is 11-36T. Thank you and please keep on with the good work. My Bafang is 36V 500W.
I have a bike with a bafang motor and display on it but the speed is limited and I can't change the setting (according to the manual at least) it has the triangular type of plug so I can't use a phone to reprogram it either. If I get a compatible display and change out the one I have now, will it change the programming for the speed limit? Or would I need a new control unit?
I have an issue when i try accelerating my bike.. the teeth are not fully working with the pedal its like it keeps slipping.. what do you reckon the issue is.. i have BBS02B 48v 750 watt.. can you help me please
Moral of the story… shift gears to avoid excessive force/wear on the motor (that’s kind of the point of gears anyways, right?)… and don’t ride your bike through a river. Sounds logical.😊
yes people don't know why the gears are there and they ride like they are riding petrol bikes then the bikes brake down and they get mad. This is an ebike, different thing!
Thanks for this great advice! Some people recommend lubricating the BBSxx motors even when they are brand new. What do you think about that? I just bought one and will put it into the bike soon...
My opinion is: why will you change the oil of a car you've just bought brand new from the auto dealer? We have done Bafang conversions for over 6 years always installing the motors new out of the box and we have had no breakdowns due to "poor lubrication". I just think it's an unnecessary step
Seems like most of these issues are caused by improper use. These motors need to be used like combustion engines from what I can tell except when you lug a Bafang, it will rip itself apart rather than stall. If that is not something you want to do/learn, I guess a hub motor would be a better choice. Thanks for the great video.
My problem with my Bafang motor is the fact that it twists inside the bottom bracket, I have used Lekki locking ring to hold the motor in, and I torque it to spec and it still twists in the bottom bracket just slightly. I also have 2 different types of stabilizing bars holding it in place, yet the motor still slightly twists in the bottom bracket when the motor is running.
i have again dead controller, no power time to reflash bios again? what's the best software package to reflash my BBSHD1000 52VOLT, it seems like every 2 months
you're riding it wrong, not starting at 1st gear, shifting gears too early and letting the torque build up in the motor. What you described is not normal for a Bafang motor, and in all these years we've never pulled one motor faulty out of the box.
Ok i am going to try another route after chatting with a mechanic pal, he said why do i use pedal assist at all and not just throttle with the gears, so on that note i will give it a go, do you know, lol, i'm sure you will know if i can completely disable pedal assist for throttle only use. thanks in advance. and you have a much better hairstyle these days, lol.
I personally ride throttle only, and pedal on top of the throttle, only when my battery is dying I start using PAS levels. Set your throttle to work on PAS 1 onward and leave level 1 at a very weak start and that's it. PAS levels are good to save battery or when riding with friends and you wanna keep pace with them etc...
I grease the reduction gear with Black Moly NGLI 2 grease... I choose small (30T Lekkie) chainrings so that the motor spins fast.. This does a couple things.. Keeps the motor cool, and extends range of battery. Paired with my Rohloff SpeedHub i am able to keep the motor from lugging down.. That will burn out the controller fast.. Listen to the motor and don't lug it down.. it should sound like it's spinning fast to work properly.
I'm a short guy. 5'7" so i ordered the square taper (bafang) 152mm crank arms.. This keep my knees from having to bend sharply on the return...I also put 1" spacers on the motor to set my feet further out for better alignment. I ordered a Lekkie narrow/wide 30T chainring. the smaller chain ring on the bafang keeps the motor spinning faster. And also gives more torque. I really like the smaller chainring, . And much easier to pedal.@@Cyberbikesau
Thanks, i have ridden over 12k miles since 2016... and i switched to the BBSHD about 4k miles ago and haven't looked back.. Riders who have big issues with these motors usually do not respect the limits of the equipment.. Maintaining chains, gears, tires is all important to make it last 12k miles.. Ride safe my friend.. and thanks for a great video.. @@Cyberbikesau
Well, if you consider that opening the motor could cause damage to the motor, and the motor is brand new, why would you open it? Our average is that a new motor BBS01-BBS02 would last 20,000km until it needs any service done!
@@Cyberbikesau i have left one motor of a client with the stock grease. it would turn oretty noisy after just 1000km limited to 23A @ 48V. The white grease on the nylon gear is the first one to separate. obviously it takes some careful hands to open a motor, but to this day I haven't damage a single one doing it. though I have toasted 2 controllers with reverse polarity soldering an xt90 the wrong way late in the evening...
@@Cyberbikesau in his case, definitely not, actually he was ghost pedaling quite often, letting the motor spin fast. i just find it easier to take the motor apart before installing it, instead of taking it off later on to do the same job. and possibly having to replace a bearing or gear. you can read everywhere that you should use mobil 28 grease, because it's high temperature resistant. in fact it's the worst grease for lubricating gears (which don't get "hot" anyway), because it's not tacky, has poor shockloading tolerance and poor fluidity. best so far is definitely some kind of fluidized grease with added PTFE powder. the oil base should have a high viscosity (220 or higher) to maintain oil lubrication up to very high torque levels before needing to rely on the PTFE
@@Cyberbikesau Thanks for your replay. Its just the pedal shaft, it doesn't move up and down, just in and out about 4 to 5mm if I grab the bottom of the pedal arm and push it in and out.
@@Cyberbikesau Strange, I've built two mid drive fat bikes and on one of them there isn't any play in the bottom bracket but on the other there is but it never used to be there when I first built it. On a normal bike you can just tighten up the bottom bracket if it gets loose on the barings to stop the lateral movement.
@@PINACI BBSHD have always had some axial looseness, but if you want to have a go, remove the seal on the left side and remove the first counter nut, then tighten the inside nut (finger tight) then install the counter nut, add some grease to seal it and the add the rubber seal on top, ready to roll!
great video I just have a question - the engine suddenly stopped working, it doesn't turn at all. and there are no errors on the screen, everything turns on, even the speed is shown but the engine doesn't start, do you have any suggestions? Thanks u
brake cut-offs or the phase wires are melted or water damage inside the controller, search our videos you gonna find the answers following those topics
Thank you for producing a very good video about common problems with Bafangs. I have been installing Bafang & Tongsheng Mid Drives for about 5 years now & any problems that were brought to my attention were nearly always customers not using their gears & relying on the motor like an automatic transmission. For this reason most of the kits I sell are without the throttle. This is one way of reducing the stripped out gear problem. Do you think it is possible to combine the torque sensor from the Tongsheng with the Cadence Sensor of the BBS02? If this is possible, it would open up a whole new market for a much improved Mid Drive.
@@daytriker no. It's not, i develop ebikes for a manufacturer for a living. I know what im talking about, dont worry. Its a retro fit motor to any standard bike with a bottom bracket. You wont of heard of it because im the only person with it...
@ellaochomogo5154 45 seconds ago I like how you get technical with your videos. They are very informative. Thank you for sharing your knowledge! I have a question... I recently installed a brand-new BBS 02 on one of my bikes. Everything functions as it should, but I have noticed that when the motor is maxed out at maximum speed under throttle, there is a slight vibration when the motor is under load, but the vibration goes away when I slow down by a couple of MPH. There is no noise just a slight vibration and all else functions normally. Is this vibration normal? Could this be the chain resonating? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
Thank you for sharing your excellent knowledge of this unit! I certainly will shift more than I already am and try to protect the unit from water. Unfortunately, I could not use the so call 'Lekkie Bling Ring' which would have given me a far better gear ratio and taken strain of the motor on steep hills.
So, it seems that if i were to make a single speed bike for the ATV trails, i would be better off with a hub motor? Most of our hills are rolling, not steep, but would it still be too stressful for a bike that i intend to regularly do about 35 mph?
Wow. What a breakdown of this unit and how it works. Excellent! I just bought a used Brilliant brand Nexus-geared bike with 750 Bafang, and I noticed on the second day of riding [two days ago] that the motor is "popping" each time the motor engages using either PAS or throttle (pop can be felt when touching the motor housing). Pop in the motor is the same whether engaging with throttle or peddle sensor.
Does using throttle often wear out mid-drive more than pedaling? Or would it be okay if we are in the right gear? I plan to use throttle to start rolling then pedal
You have to throttle on the right gear, and on the standard Bafang controller settings the throttle is stronger than the pedal assist so yes, considering that throttle and PAS are on the right gear, the throttle will wear out the motor more than the pedal assist, but hey, do you want power or not =)
So the conclusions of prolong the life span of mid drive kit is to shift gears whenever we come to a stop,and starts moving with lower gears just like how we ride motorcycles? Because im about to invest on this kit to my mtb and after watching this really got me worried .
Mine was buzzing like it was running out of batteries and now doesn't start with throttle or pedal assist. I think it's a bad connection but i hope the controller isn't damaged by the intermittent power. I was having to run it off a speaker wire with banana plugs in the battery as i need a new battery mount cable. The motor connection bottom bracket is annoying because it comes loose as there is about half a tonne of force trying to turn it at full power. My motor is now held up with a bungee. Otherwise it rises up and dents the frame under power. I might need a rubber washer between it and the bottom bracket.
Thank you so much. Your video is full of actual knowledge. I've been search for a video with some explanation to it and yours had it Sir. Thorough and Complete. You have no idea how much better you've made my day yo! I'll be back every drop brother!
Excellent breakdown,im new to e bike's,seems alot problem so I'll wait couple years till product ironed out issues, many many thanks for information, excellent..
Get one of our Cyberbikes if you're in Australia it's a flawless product and will last many years. That video is peculiar to a type of motor and the break downs happen because people dont know how to use the drive train of the bicycle and overload the motor
Thanks! I've been trying to research the Bafang kits after realising I don't like the idea of a dedicated e-bike bottom bracket shell for a Shimano or Bosch motor (no future proofing). Are the Bafang motors kits actually different depending on which wattage you get or is it just the controller limiting the power available? I was looking at getting just a 250w kit, but if the gears are beefier in the high wattage kits I would go with those and limit the power to maximise lifespan.
your bike frame will tell you what motor to use. Don't go for a VW Beetle body and a Ferrari engine. Bigger motors do not mean better performance, the bike has to last, you cannot die without brakes, your body cannot shake at high speeds without suspension. Consider those facts in your build because we engineer ebikes, and life matters.
@@whatsit2ya247 larger motor has better internal gears, but it doesn't make sense to carry more weight just because of the gears if he will never exceed 250W. You have to think about the bike as a whole.
Very informative. You show problems with the Bafang design and the preventive measures to keep you motor up and running, that no other channel addresses. ..Great video ..
Hi Felipe, awesome tips and great delivery! Would please let me know what model of Pinion bearing you put as an upgrade? Also I use a 32T chainring and find myself ghost pedaling often. You say it is also bad to be light on the pedals. Is it really that bad?
The upgrade bearing we use for BBS01/02 is 6002 which is a bit wider than the original. About 32T, yeah you will ghost pedaling a lot, but because you chainring is very small in diameter, it most likely has enough torque in any gear you're at so the chances of damaging the motor are way lower than someone with a 46T and ghost pedaling. If you can take few seconds of your time to give us a 5 star review that's highly appreciated g.page/r/CX0AoVbmxOSwEBM/review
Great video! I have a question. Why is it bad to have the motor in a higher cadence? I prefer to ride staying in lower gears most of the time. Just wondering why this would clause damage?
Hi Joseph, in the entire video I’m asking you to keep the motor at high revs and consequently your legs at high cadence, that’s the ideal riding condition. However, keeping your legs floating in the air (ultra high cadence legs can’t keep up) specially when the motor needs help to climb a hill will overload the pinion and granny gear coupling
@@josephi6916 Here is a suggestion - Use your gears as you would without a Power Assist. Set your power level at a comfortable level to match the speed you wish to ride. For example for normal on road or trail riding without other traffic to interfere, set your power level on 2. If you are riding around people or traffic etc. you may wish to ride a lot slower so set your power level to 1. When you come up to a steep hill you can hear when the motor starts to bog down so increase your power level as well as changing down to a lower gear for the climb. Once you reach the top of your hill, put your power level back to where you need it (1 or 2) & change your gears to where you need them for a comfortable cadence. It's the bogging down of your motor that does the damage so keep the motor in it's happy rev range by choosing your gears to maintain your comfortable cadence.
@@daytriker Thanks for the reply. I mostly ride that way. I think the problem I'm having is since the motor does so much of the work it's hard to tell what gear I actually need to be in most of the time. I normally push off with my legs when I start riding to make it easier on the motor. I just wonder how bad it would be to mostly just leave the bike in the middle gears and not fuss with it too much unless there's a clear sign the motor is bogging. This video also thought me that too high of a cadence can be bad as well but my bike reaches hi cadence very quickly.
@@josephi6916 I believe there is a misunderstanding of 'too high a cadence.' To use a standard transmission as an analogy, if you are not in the correct gear to allow your engine to run efficiently you can hear it bog down. Also if you leave your transmission in too low a gear, you will be revving the motor more than is necessary wasting power or fuel. I would suggest leaving your power level low & increasing it as required since this will most certainly force you to use your gearing first.
Nice videos you make about Bafang. Shifting gear to a lighter gear is almost impossible, the rpm of the Bafang is to low. You have to use the torque to get to speed
I have a BBSHD mounted on my SunSeeker trike. The other day I heard grinding sounds in the motor. Then the pedals locked up. The motor still works via the throttle and that got me home. I have about 2000 miles on the trike. Any idea what the problem is?
The roller bearing responsible for supporting the pedal axle has been damaged. Why? Overtorque when tightening the motor to the trike frame. On the left side of the motor, where the nut and mount are, remove the gasket that's on the shaft and remove the special nuts that are threaded to the shaft and you will be able to slide the axle of the bearings and replace that damaged bearing. Good luck with your repair.
@@Jeff20657 it shorten the life of the old bearing. Press (don’t hammer) a new bearing in. If you think you deformed the housing too much, buy a new motor, but I don’t think that’s the case. What I can say from my experience is that that bearing breaks by over tightening the motor to the frame or corrosion. You mentioned 2000miles, how many months to cover that distance?
Thnx for your videos. I have been running a BBSHD for over 5 years, opened it to look at overall condition & to lube it last year when transferring it to another bike. Being able to program cadence and power levels (as well as setting it for max power) has made it very easy & comfortable to use, especially on technical mountain biking trails. You are so correct about shifting, having been a year-round commuter and mountain biker on "acoustic" bikes, it is second nature to me on electric bikes.
@@Cyberbikesau so far, I have only seen this one video of yours, the algorithm just suggested it. At some point, covering programming for the BBS01/02 & BBSHD also external controllers for the hub drive folks, either separately or as a comparison. I do not know how many folks have actually done it.
@@davebrown9725 Nice one, we have a quick programming video ua-cam.com/video/bX-gFdU6aBM/v-deo.html&lc=UgwPeB7ZCUdPoSWUHep4AaABAg.9knzFOb63-o9lSFfOkBp2V and the controller for hub guys that's nice though. Thanks for the insights
I have also changed of the (many) setup parameters by using a USB cable & software. It runs indeed smoother and better adjusted to my riding style. This should also protect the unit and reduce wear of the drive train.
Great video. My problem is motor stopped working mid ride. Charged up and would not turn on. Battery voltage is 51 on 48 v battery. Had a working new same system so i started replacing parts. Display was first choice and it worked. Then throttle. New throttle didnt fix. I tried my throttle on my bike and it does not work on known working system. Still no motor. When i try working system with my motor its no go. Could motor and throttle go out at once?. Thanks Steve
Great video as always! I just installed my Bbs02b 500w a month ago. Everything is going well, however I experienced a slight ticking noise when pedaling? I am just about to take it apart and change all the grease (primary & secondary gear) to Mobilgrease SHC100. What do you think about that?
Hi Bengt thanks for your feedback. If you haven’t ridden your bike in mud and adverse conditions, there’s no need to open the motor and grease it. I suggest doing it when the motor reaches 5000km. I would focus my attention on the drive train, you might have gears that are not matching properly with the chain or there’s a frozen chain link. Let me know how it goes. Cheers
@@Cyberbikesau No, the ticking noise is definitely coming from the motor. It's not disturbing in any way. Just a slight ticking, not all the time. Primarily when I start pedaling for a couple of minutes, then it disappears. That leads me to think that it is a greasing thing?
@@bengtmowitz5012 before replacing it, try tunning the gears and checking for a frozen chain link. We don’t have a video about it, but because it could be a problem you’re facing, we will record a video about it
Need help please if you can!Motor 750w 36t chainring brand new motor,i sense some vibrations in pedals.I mean after 1-2 hours feels like my feet sat on 2 vibrathing phones.Changed ,chain, casette,even went to someone to remove some casette speeds for the chain to be aligned with the chain ring.Still no improvement.
Hello Felipe! I would like to congratulate you for your videos! They are great! I'm following all your tips here on your channel and I'm applying them to my BBS01. I would like to ask for your kindness and suggest that, if possible, you produce some videos addressing the problems with electrical and electronic components. How to detect these problems and how to fix them. I'm here in Brazil and technical assistance is very far away. It is located in São Paulo. The company is really good, but the logistics for me are very complicated due to the distance and cost. With these classes that you give us on your channel, it opens up a great possibility of solving it right here in my city. I had a problem with the main cable giving err 30. I managed to detect the problem, I will replace it with a new one and install it following your recommendation. Thanks for your excellent work! Keep helping us! A big hug!!
Glad you were able to solve your main cable issue. Mine broke a conductor and would not even turn on. Very glad I had a spare on hand for troubleshooting and immediate replacement. I was more careful with the routing this time, I think the cable had gotten crushed between the double crown fork and the frame.
super helpful, thanks. I've either stripped my nylon gear or granny gear. It won't catch in 2-3 speed now and sounds like gling-dingadingading when its not catching
Hi. great to see info on Bafang motors out there - here's my problem and your diagnosis would be gratefully received. The battery is old but still functioning, with range greatly down but with frequent charging it's fine... frequently now however the motor does not engage (the assist is zero bars) and sometimes this is accompanied by the screen going dead. Sometimes I can have it on, get no assistance for 10 minutes or so and then suddenly the motor kicks it and we're back to normal. An intermittent problem! What to do? Many thanks J
Hi J, it's important to don't make confusion with the symptoms. 1. Battery losing capacity, that will eventually cause the bike to shut off under load. The display will turn off and the bike will die. Re-balancing the battery cells my solve this issue in the short term. Replacing the battery will solve this issue in the long term. 2. The bike being ON and no assist whatsoever, means that you have a trigger on the brake sensors. Maybe your brake lever is damaged, or your brake pads are worn out. Unplug the brake sensors and see if the bike stopped cutting off. If it stopped to cut off, you have to access why the brake sensors are being triggered and fix it! If you appreciate our time and dedication to solving your problem please generously give us a good review g.page/r/CX0AoVbmxOSwEBM/review Best regards!
When I turn on the power in the controller the battery charge displayed recently has changed. starting at 0, going up to some %. Recently it stopped working when turned on at the controller it turned on and then off immediately. then it turn on normally. I think it could be a short but nothing is obvious. any advice?
the battery could be detached from the craddle, the battery connectors could be damaged, the controller could be failling, the display cable to controller could be damaged.
Which grease do you recommend for the bbs02b primary and secondary gears? I read about the Mobilgrease SHC100, it's a Lithium based grease. Recommended as a replacement for the Mobil 28, which is hard to find in Europe.
That’s a good grease, I checked it’s data sheet: Mobilith SHC 100 is an antiwear and extreme pressure grease primarily recommended for higher speed applications such as electric motors, where reduced friction, low wear and long service life are required. It is an NLGI 2 Grade / ISO VG 100 grease with a synthetic base fluid. Its operating temperature range is -40º C* to 150º C. As a rule of thumb go with high temp grease from a decent brand, it can be with lithium or not, higher viscosity is key for this application
@@Cyberbikesau I think I will replace the original grease anyway, it's the petroleum based black grease in the secondary gear, it has a tendency of spread to the primary nylon gear and in the long run cause decay.
@@Cyberbikesau Yea, one would think so. But there are a many sources included UA-cam that claims that the Black Moly grease is harmful for plastics. I don't know if it is both the bbs02 and the new bbs02b?
@@bengtmowitz5012 we are talking here about metal gears, what I understood for primary and secondary are the granny and pinion gears I mentioned in the video. For the nylon gear use a non lithium extra dense grease or a friction reduction paste
Hello thank you for this video. I’m looking at bafang and CYC or hub drive motor. I like mid most. The kit I’m looking for to fit Scott aspect 950 but unsure what front gear I need.
1:30-1:52 i didnt really understand how to avoid the water from following the wires and getting into the body where the wires attach to it?? thanks otherwise for a great video!!
water follows the gravity which will follow the wire if its a straight line down to the controller, try making an arc with the wire an U shape then running the cable up the frame
My unit is now 5 years old and I am experiencing occasional intermittent partial power loss. I have checked the brake handle cut-out sensors and the power supply. The display is always working without any error messages. Does the motor have a thermal cut-out? What else shoud I be checking?
Thank you for your suggestion. I just found out that the right brake handle cut-out sensor was too sensitive - it needed to travel just a fraction of a millimetre to activate which could have been caused by road bumps or accidental touching. I adjusted the magnet and hopefully there is no other problem.
so what will you recommend to avoid those 8 problems? the bafang mid drive motor parts are available and where to purchase? thanks for giving us tips bro. more power.
shift gears, start on the 1st gear of the cassette and as the speed increases shift gears up. Before you stop the bike, bring the gears back to 1st gear
I find that the power of my Bafang 500w is so great that I have to change up gears 2 or 3 at a time to keep up with the acceleration and spend most of my riding time in top gear averaging 35 kph for flat cruising. I guess that is exactly the way to wear out my gears? What if I could fit a CVT in lieu of derailleurs? Would that help keep my motor in good shape?
Hi Keith, the secret to have a bafang motor that lives for a long time is to make it spin fast. You could have a CVT which is an improvement in comparison to derailleurs, but if you don’t tune the CVT or don’t shift gears on the derailleur to allow your motor to spin fast you will damage the motor.
Your channel is one of the most useful and informative for someone who possess an electric bike, like me. Congratulations for the great quality videos 😉🙌
What can be? My battery say 58.6v so is almost full (is 52v battery no bbshd motor) but When i plug in to the motor is show me 60% battery, two battery same issue, what i can do? :(
Excellent breakdown! ThxU! Quick question. Can you use the power output gauge to insure that you’re not stressing the inner & outer drive train. I’ve got a 620 Ultra and virtually never drive the wattage into the 750-1000 range! Usually, a simple downshift or harder pedal will drop the wattage on a hill or starting out! Should this be the goal or am I missing something?
PS: Would an RPM gauge be helpful?
It’s preferable to have more speed (rotation) than torque when the motor is performing, that means is better to be on lower gears (1-2-3) let the motor Rev higher then you shift the gear up. Keeping it below 1000w is good for the motor but doing it in the wrong gear will still cause damages. Please watch the following video, it should answer all your questions ua-cam.com/video/jb3v5Y0Q2l0/v-deo.html
Basically the best way to looking at properly using your gear Cadence is to compare your cycling to that of an 18 wheeler semi truck. Semi trucks use a gearing to be able to move forward. If they did not use all their gearing they would blow the engine. This holds true with an e-bike.
The old bbs02 was set with the throttle as priority over the PAS.. This allowed you to use a really low PAS setting and add throttle along with your leg power and it kept the heat and stress down.. It also felt natural.. Then they changed it when the newer bbs02-b came out.. Now the PAS is priority over throttle.. This ruined the drive.. While your turning the pedals the throttle won't work ( unless you pin it to full throttle which is obviously bad for the motor).. I built several of these and the first thing I do is cut the grey PAS wire!! PAS is stupid!! With no PAS you just ride it like a bike and add power with the throttle when you need it.. The PAS numbers 1-(3,5,or9) now act as what amps your throttle controls.. If you can program the controller set PAS 1 to say 15% ( of the 25 amps) 2 to 25% and so on until 9 is full amps 100% or 25 amps.. You can even set 9 to 90% just for piece of mind (or a customers bike).. You will be surprised that you can ride all day in say 6 and it has plenty of power.. Your bike will feel 100% more natural to ride, your drive will never overheat and your range will increase.. If your really low on battery you can go into PAS 1 and just tap or blip the throttle to keep your momentum up.. 🍻
This is news to me, thanks.
Hi, thanks for the hint. I just bought a BBS02B and I didn't know of that change. Definitely agree with you: PAS is stupid. Where is that grey wire located? Inside the chassis?
If you pull off the controller you can find it there, or you could pull the side cover off and remove the big main drive shaft /gear (the one the pedals attach to) .. Behind that gear there is a plastic disc with a magnet on it, if you remove the magnet the system will not "see" you rotating the pedals. Then you can pedal the bike and add 1% - 100% variable throttle,, the combination of variable throttle and your leg power is natural, smooth, efficient, and fun.
@@jstolba
Is this apply to cadence sensors or torque sensors?
The BBS02B and BBS01B don't have torque sensors in them from the factory, I don't think the BBSHD does either.. As far as cadence is concerned all your speed and odometer data is picked up by the magnet on the spoke that is read by the speed sensor so you still get speed and distance readings @@esayed
I'll join the chorus of bewildered people.
Those are high quality videos, of a professional showing us around his workshop & going way deep into the gear that we are oh-so-very interested in.
I do not get it how is it only like 1.5k subs.
Awesome video!! Thank you so much for sharing these issues and tips to avoid them (shift!!!). I really appreciate your incredible experience gained from supporting and maintaining these systems. Your word is gold.
Thank you for your words, I wish the world was full of people like you, your positive energy and consideration can move mountain. Continue like that and we will have a brighter future! All the best
Thank you so much, I have a bbshd that when I pedal and I'm pushing hard with no motor help, or straight motor it releases almost like I'm switching gears but I'm not. I replaced inner and outer gears on right side thinking that maybe they were letting go under force, but it didn't change anything. I will continue to look deeper.
If you did a paid channel that would give parts numbers and help source things like bearings and go deeper in to troubleshooting ebikes, sourcing parts for all pev. I would pay. I spend hours doing research to find better ways to do repairs and I would be willing to stock it all in the US because it is a nightmare here.
Thank you for the video, amazing
Hi Thank you for your insights, we will try to work around stocking Bafang parts.
From what I understood from your description, you most likely have a frozen chain link or a worn cassette sprocket or a worn out chainring (less usual but happens)
Lots of great information, clearly explained. Good job, Mate!
Glad it was helpful!
severe lack of mechanical knowledge on YT regarding e-bikes. Thanks for de-mystifying a lot of the issues.
Thank you for your comment, we really appreciate people like you on the web! See you in the next video
I hate it when I'm interested in an ebike, and 2mins in, the reviewer shows total incompetency, and a lack of understanding of tools in general. There's one guy who always assembles on grass....right next to pavement! Companies are sending test bikes to those who just complain about "their way, versus the manufactured build" Everybody wants speed, that's not why you're on a bike, you own a car, that goes fast. I want consistent charges, and reliability. Fast usually mean faster wear out. There's a fine line, and some are just going too far.
I would definitely replace the grease I did on mine when it was new with a synthetic boat grease quiet as can be the stock grease is garbage
Great might be a good thing to do
Replaced grease on both of the ones I have used before putting them in service. Used Mobil-28 grease.
...very good tutor👍
Thank you Bob
hi Felipe, thansk for the amazing video, so easy to understand and enjoyable. i have a question, currently my bafang motor does not run and i suspect it is the nylon gear. if i pull back the bike i can hear loud clicking sound from the pedal. just like your feedback if my diagnose is correct
Hi Lawrence, thanks for your words. About your issue, you have to be more specific, when you say it doesn't run do you mean there's electrical power, you throttle the motor and you hear a clunky clicking sound coming from the motor?
Which Bafang motor and front chain ring (42T, 44T, 52T etc) would you recommend for a 2013 Diamondback Response XE29? I already have a two 20ah 48v batteries from my other hub motor bike. I am looking to make a 43 mile, somewhat hilly commute about 3 times a week. My state considers anything above 750w unlawful, so there's that. Thanks in advance.
because it's hilly and you want to save battery go with 42T chainring
Excellent video, thank you. Can you please give details of the socket type and size used for the torque wrench. I need to buy one of these. Many thanks.
I dont remember the code, look for bafang 4 paws tool socket
Immense in depth absorbed added knowledge. Many thanks...
Thank you for your video. Excellent explanation! I'm up to buy a Bafang 750W motor. I've seen that many people complain about the excesive resistance on the motor when pedaling alone. And that it hapends after some time, at first it was ok. Is maybe the problem of overtightening the bottom bracket nut that you mentioned in the video? That distorts the haul pipe and so afects the bearings. Thanks
Yes exactly. That issue could be due to overtightening the bottom bracket nut. Glad you enjoyed the video! Cheers, please help our channel grow and give us a good review on Google g.page/r/CX0AoVbmxOSwEBM/review
@@Cyberbikesau thanks for your response. I gave you 5 stars. Cheers
@@EbassEbike thank you for your help my friend!
Good video!
So I noticed a squealing sound coming from my BBS02. I took the plastic cover off, and it sounds like it's right where the pinion is. The sound only comes when i'm pedaling WITHOUt assist. So once assist or throttle is engaged, there is no squealing sound. I regreased it all today because I figured maybe it was rubbing or something? Not sure what to try next to fix it.
Great video! Sometimes on long rides my motor completely stops working like it’s not getting power. This only happens for a short period then it comes back on. Is this this normal if I’m using too much power?
Could be many things, like burnt phase wires (check our video library on how to fix this issue), brake sensor playing out or overtemperature
Did you find what the problem was
Good video. In your opinion, are Bafang motors adequately lubricated from the factory? I'm about to purchase two of them.
Also, how many tooth chainring should the average rider use in your opinion?
Nice video
Thanks
Thanks for the great video.
Is the damage from over-torquing the motor shaft instant? The "second time" tightening that nut I may have exceeded the spec by a lot. Other than loosening the nut to 80N-m is there anything I should be watching out for? Its a 750W BBS02 with only about 200km so far.
Regards, Randy
Yes and yes pay attention to the bearings that are inside housing, the roller bearing gets damaged by over tightening the nut that holds the motor to the bottom bracket
awesome video. also nice mullet
Thank you, all the best my friend, and keep the mullet alive!🙃
Most of the gearshift errors are from using too small/ low of a gear and applying too much force/heat. Are their issues from too high/large of a gear and wide open throttle?
Dear Felipe, thanks for your video. Regarding your first problem, I covered the gaskets you showed with silicone and then painted them black. Since this was handmade, it does not look good, but I'm almost sure that water will not go in from there. (I cannot upload the pictures here). Is it common for the water to go inside the motor through the bearings? Of course, I'm not riding in the river. Now, regarding the motor effort that you referred to later, my granny has 36 teeth. Would you suggest a smaller front ring? BTW, my cassette is 11-36T. Thank you and please keep on with the good work. My Bafang is 36V 500W.
that's okay your ebike will last a long time with a 36T chainring
Is the BBSHD a stronger build?
Very Good
I just greased my granny gear on my BBS02b and noticed it was straight cut and not angle cut.Did they change it?
?!
they have a small angle, not 100% straight
Quality video..
I have a bike with a bafang motor and display on it but the speed is limited and I can't change the setting (according to the manual at least) it has the triangular type of plug so I can't use a phone to reprogram it either. If I get a compatible display and change out the one I have now, will it change the programming for the speed limit? Or would I need a new control unit?
I have an issue when i try accelerating my bike.. the teeth are not fully working with the pedal its like it keeps slipping.. what do you reckon the issue is.. i have BBS02B 48v 750 watt.. can you help me please
not enough info to give a diagnostics
what is that tool name and where to get it to torque to 80 nm?
buy a torque wrench, and look for Bafang 4 notch tool!
Moral of the story… shift gears to avoid excessive force/wear on the motor (that’s kind of the point of gears anyways, right?)… and don’t ride your bike through a river. Sounds logical.😊
yes people don't know why the gears are there and they ride like they are riding petrol bikes then the bikes brake down and they get mad. This is an ebike, different thing!
What causes the motor power to turn on and off while riding? The display shows plenty of charge, new brake sensors and new speed sensor.
battery problems or battery connectors
# 9 - melted windings by hi-temperature because user do not shift gears or bike+ciclist are too heavy.
Yes, indeed, that’s one of the reasons
I need a custom AI trained on what happens in your shop to sit in mine and tell me everything that breaks on my BBSHDs.
I have checked all comments and i can't see anywhere
you didn't look properly,
The upgrade bearing we use for BBS01/02 is 6002 which is a bit wider than the original.
🤔 Think I'll stick with my front hub motor. 👿
ahahaha depending on the application, that might be of great use! Cheers
Thanks for this great advice! Some people recommend lubricating the BBSxx motors even when they are brand new. What do you think about that? I just bought one and will put it into the bike soon...
My opinion is: why will you change the oil of a car you've just bought brand new from the auto dealer?
We have done Bafang conversions for over 6 years always installing the motors new out of the box and we have had no breakdowns due to "poor lubrication".
I just think it's an unnecessary step
Seems like most of these issues are caused by improper use. These motors need to be used like combustion engines from what I can tell except when you lug a Bafang, it will rip itself apart rather than stall. If that is not something you want to do/learn, I guess a hub motor would be a better choice. Thanks for the great video.
yes you're right
Thank you,you made my decision to buy bicycle with hub motor
you're welcome
LOL, I burned up the Hall Sensors in my hub motor the first day I had it by ignorance, so there's that !
My problem with my Bafang motor is the fact that it twists inside the bottom bracket, I have used Lekki locking ring to hold the motor in, and I torque it to spec and it still twists in the bottom bracket just slightly. I also have 2 different types of stabilizing bars holding it in place, yet the motor still slightly twists in the bottom bracket when the motor is running.
@@TheBrainSquared have a look at our video how to install a bafang motor, you should get the best tips to ensure your motor won’t move anymore
Brilliant information...it begs the question...in a fairly hilly area what size /teeth chainring would you recommend? TIA
We would suggest 42T which is a good mix of torque and top speed
i have again dead controller, no power time to reflash bios again? what's the best software package to reflash my BBSHD1000 52VOLT, it seems like every 2 months
you're riding it wrong, not starting at 1st gear, shifting gears too early and letting the torque build up in the motor. What you described is not normal for a Bafang motor, and in all these years we've never pulled one motor faulty out of the box.
Now “lekkie” has “one nut” this guarantee zero movement of motor with recommended 50-60nm, FOREVER!!!
thanks for sharing it though
Ok i am going to try another route after chatting with a mechanic pal, he said why do i use pedal assist at all and not just throttle with the gears, so on that note i will give it a go, do you know, lol, i'm sure you will know if i can completely disable pedal assist for throttle only use. thanks in advance. and you have a much better hairstyle these days, lol.
I personally ride throttle only, and pedal on top of the throttle, only when my battery is dying I start using PAS levels. Set your throttle to work on PAS 1 onward and leave level 1 at a very weak start and that's it. PAS levels are good to save battery or when riding with friends and you wanna keep pace with them etc...
I grease the reduction gear with Black Moly NGLI 2 grease...
I choose small (30T Lekkie) chainrings so that the motor spins fast.. This does a couple things.. Keeps the motor cool, and extends range of battery. Paired with my Rohloff SpeedHub i am able to keep the motor from lugging down.. That will burn out the controller fast.. Listen to the motor and don't lug it down.. it should sound like it's spinning fast to work properly.
how do you pedal on a 30T chainring?
I'm a short guy. 5'7" so i ordered the square taper (bafang) 152mm crank arms.. This keep my knees from having to bend sharply on the return...I also put 1" spacers on the motor to set my feet further out for better alignment. I ordered a Lekkie narrow/wide 30T chainring. the smaller chain ring on the bafang keeps the motor spinning faster. And also gives more torque.
I really like the smaller chainring, . And much easier to pedal.@@Cyberbikesau
Nice one, glad you customised the kit to meet your needs, keep up!
@@rdkuless
Thanks, i have ridden over 12k miles since 2016... and i switched to the BBSHD about 4k miles ago and haven't looked back.. Riders who have big issues with these motors usually do not respect the limits of the equipment.. Maintaining chains, gears, tires is all important to make it last 12k miles.. Ride safe my friend.. and thanks for a great video.. @@Cyberbikesau
stock grease is pretty crappy, also inside the bearings. adding the right grease, which is a subject on its own, will make servicing later unnecessary
Well, if you consider that opening the motor could cause damage to the motor, and the motor is brand new, why would you open it? Our average is that a new motor BBS01-BBS02 would last 20,000km until it needs any service done!
@@Cyberbikesau i have left one motor of a client with the stock grease. it would turn oretty noisy after just 1000km limited to 23A @ 48V. The white grease on the nylon gear is the first one to separate.
obviously it takes some careful hands to open a motor, but to this day I haven't damage a single one doing it. though I have toasted 2 controllers with reverse polarity soldering an xt90 the wrong way late in the evening...
The customer is breaking the motor, send our gear shifting video so they stop taking off on the last gear of the cassette.
@@Cyberbikesau in his case, definitely not, actually he was ghost pedaling quite often, letting the motor spin fast. i just find it easier to take the motor apart before installing it, instead of taking it off later on to do the same job. and possibly having to replace a bearing or gear. you can read everywhere that you should use mobil 28 grease, because it's high temperature resistant. in fact it's the worst grease for lubricating gears (which don't get "hot" anyway), because it's not tacky, has poor shockloading tolerance and poor fluidity. best so far is definitely some kind of fluidized grease with added PTFE powder. the oil base should have a high viscosity (220 or higher) to maintain oil lubrication up to very high torque levels before needing to rely on the PTFE
ua-cam.com/video/wlK-3ShP1J4/v-deo.html @ 2 minutes 28 you can hear the sound my motor is making, Pinion issue!!!
Yep common noise from 750W motors, too much power going through the little pinion.
I have a BBSHD 1000w motor and the bottom bracket shafts moves about 5mm each way if I pull my pedal arms back and forth. Is this fixable ?
You have to be more specific, is it an axial or radial gap? Is it the pedal shaft alone or the entire motor moving around?
@@Cyberbikesau Thanks for your replay. Its just the pedal shaft, it doesn't move up and down, just in and out about 4 to 5mm if I grab the bottom of the pedal arm and push it in and out.
@@PINACI that’s a normal gap, all motors we have installed had that same gap so we consider it being a manufacturing standard
@@Cyberbikesau Strange, I've built two mid drive fat bikes and on one of them there isn't any play in the bottom bracket but on the other there is but it never used to be there when I first built it.
On a normal bike you can just tighten up the bottom bracket if it gets loose on the barings to stop the lateral movement.
@@PINACI BBSHD have always had some axial looseness, but if you want to have a go, remove the seal on the left side and remove the first counter nut, then tighten the inside nut (finger tight) then install the counter nut, add some grease to seal it and the add the rubber seal on top, ready to roll!
great video I just have a question - the engine suddenly stopped working, it doesn't turn at all. and there are no errors on the screen, everything turns on, even the speed is shown
but the engine doesn't start, do you have any suggestions?
Thanks u
I don't know if I should try to buy a new controller or cables but that don't look damaged
brake cut-offs or the phase wires are melted or water damage inside the controller, search our videos you gonna find the answers following those topics
Thank you for producing a very good video about common problems with Bafangs. I have been installing Bafang & Tongsheng Mid Drives for about 5 years now & any problems that were brought to my attention were nearly always customers not using their gears & relying on the motor like an automatic transmission. For this reason most of the kits I sell are without the throttle. This is one way of reducing the stripped out gear problem. Do you think it is possible to combine the torque sensor from the Tongsheng with the Cadence Sensor of the BBS02? If this is possible, it would open up a whole new market for a much improved Mid Drive.
Agree 100%
I have a new motor. Power of the bbshd and has torque sensing. Let me know if you are interested
@@Alex-uh1mj Hi Alex, is this the new Ultra series Bafang Mid Drives? If so, they require a dedicated frame & are not for retrofits as far as I know.
@@daytriker no. It's not, i develop ebikes for a manufacturer for a living. I know what im talking about, dont worry. Its a retro fit motor to any standard bike with a bottom bracket. You wont of heard of it because im the only person with it...
@Alex link please.
Do I need to add some grease to nylon gear bearing inside or is it dry bearing one way clutch with no grease
I would add those green Shimano refined grease
@ellaochomogo5154
45 seconds ago
I like how you get technical with your videos. They are very informative. Thank you for sharing your knowledge! I have a question... I recently installed a brand-new BBS 02 on one of my bikes. Everything functions as it should, but I have noticed that when the motor is maxed out at maximum speed under throttle, there is a slight vibration when the motor is under load, but the vibration goes away when I slow down by a couple of MPH. There is no noise just a slight vibration and all else functions normally. Is this vibration normal? Could this be the chain resonating? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
nicely explained. its good to know whats the inside and how it works. keep it Up great Visuals..❤❤❤
Thanks a lot 😊
Thanks , I actually did learn something new. Basically, I need to buy new motor. And probably will be 5000watts
Thank you for sharing your excellent knowledge of this unit! I certainly will shift more than I already am and try to protect the unit from water. Unfortunately, I could not use the so call 'Lekkie Bling Ring' which would have given me a far better gear ratio and taken strain of the motor on steep hills.
So, it seems that if i were to make a single speed bike for the ATV trails, i would be better off with a hub motor? Most of our hills are rolling, not steep, but would it still be too stressful for a bike that i intend to regularly do about 35 mph?
Wow. What a breakdown of this unit and how it works. Excellent! I just bought a used Brilliant brand Nexus-geared bike with 750 Bafang, and I noticed on the second day of riding [two days ago] that the motor is "popping" each time the motor engages using either PAS or throttle (pop can be felt when touching the motor housing). Pop in the motor is the same whether engaging with throttle or peddle sensor.
Check the granny gear and pinion coupling. You most likely have to replace the granny gear or the bearing of the pinion and the pinion itself.
Does using throttle often wear out mid-drive more than pedaling? Or would it be okay if we are in the right gear? I plan to use throttle to start rolling then pedal
You have to throttle on the right gear, and on the standard Bafang controller settings the throttle is stronger than the pedal assist so yes, considering that throttle and PAS are on the right gear, the throttle will wear out the motor more than the pedal assist, but hey, do you want power or not =)
@@Cyberbikesau I guess everything has a trade off haha. Thanks for the reply and great video btw
@@dowblab @dowblab Yeah that's it! Thanks, you're welcome, talk to you in the next video =)
So the conclusions of prolong the life span of mid drive kit is to shift gears whenever we come to a stop,and starts moving with lower gears just like how we ride motorcycles? Because im about to invest on this kit to my mtb and after watching this really got me worried .
Can I ride it to work in heavy rain? I want to replace my car, but that's only possible if the bike will be reliable enough in all conditions.
Mine was buzzing like it was running out of batteries and now doesn't start with throttle or pedal assist. I think it's a bad connection but i hope the controller isn't damaged by the intermittent power. I was having to run it off a speaker wire with banana plugs in the battery as i need a new battery mount cable.
The motor connection bottom bracket is annoying because it comes loose as there is about half a tonne of force trying to turn it at full power. My motor is now held up with a bungee. Otherwise it rises up and dents the frame under power. I might need a rubber washer between it and the bottom bracket.
Thank you so much. Your video is full of actual knowledge. I've been search for a video with some explanation to it and yours had it Sir. Thorough and Complete. You have no idea how much better you've made my day yo! I'll be back every drop brother!
Thanks Paul!
…SHIFT GEARS…!!
Thanks for posting this, good advice.
Excellent breakdown,im new to e bike's,seems alot problem so I'll wait couple years till product ironed out issues, many many thanks for information, excellent..
Get one of our Cyberbikes if you're in Australia it's a flawless product and will last many years. That video is peculiar to a type of motor and the break downs happen because people dont know how to use the drive train of the bicycle and overload the motor
Conclussion is very simple. It's time to make MID motor in a proper way that based on planetary gear. 🤷
Thanks! I've been trying to research the Bafang kits after realising I don't like the idea of a dedicated e-bike bottom bracket shell for a Shimano or Bosch motor (no future proofing). Are the Bafang motors kits actually different depending on which wattage you get or is it just the controller limiting the power available? I was looking at getting just a 250w kit, but if the gears are beefier in the high wattage kits I would go with those and limit the power to maximise lifespan.
your bike frame will tell you what motor to use. Don't go for a VW Beetle body and a Ferrari engine. Bigger motors do not mean better performance, the bike has to last, you cannot die without brakes, your body cannot shake at high speeds without suspension. Consider those facts in your build because we engineer ebikes, and life matters.
@Cyberbikes Wtf?? The guy was just asking if larger watt motors had better internals.
@@whatsit2ya247 larger motor has better internal gears, but it doesn't make sense to carry more weight just because of the gears if he will never exceed 250W. You have to think about the bike as a whole.
Very informative. You show problems with the Bafang design and the preventive measures to keep you motor up and running, that no other channel addresses. ..Great video ..
Hi Felipe, awesome tips and great delivery! Would please let me know what model of Pinion bearing you put as an upgrade? Also I use a 32T chainring and find myself ghost pedaling often. You say it is also bad to be light on the pedals. Is it really that bad?
The upgrade bearing we use for BBS01/02 is 6002 which is a bit wider than the original. About 32T, yeah you will ghost pedaling a lot, but because you chainring is very small in diameter, it most likely has enough torque in any gear you're at so the chances of damaging the motor are way lower than someone with a 46T and ghost pedaling.
If you can take few seconds of your time to give us a 5 star review that's highly appreciated g.page/r/CX0AoVbmxOSwEBM/review
@@Cyberbikesau= SORRY , Page NOT FOUND
= ERROR.404 !?
water should not easily get into the controller because the controller board is potted in resin to seal it.
tell it to the water
@@Cyberbikesau❤ hilarious. Yes, tell it to mother nature.
2400+ miles no problems
!
Yeahh
50 dkp minus for not shifting gears!
yes
Great video! I have a question. Why is it bad to have the motor in a higher cadence? I prefer to ride staying in lower gears most of the time. Just wondering why this would clause damage?
Hi Joseph, in the entire video I’m asking you to keep the motor at high revs and consequently your legs at high cadence, that’s the ideal riding condition. However, keeping your legs floating in the air (ultra high cadence legs can’t keep up) specially when the motor needs help to climb a hill will overload the pinion and granny gear coupling
@@Cyberbikesau Okay thank you. So I'm thinking for light riding it should be okay. Just not climbing or at high pas mods.
@@josephi6916 Here is a suggestion - Use your gears as you would without a Power Assist. Set your power level at a comfortable level to match the speed you wish to ride. For example for normal on road or trail riding without other traffic to interfere, set your power level on 2. If you are riding around people or traffic etc. you may wish to ride a lot slower so set your power level to 1. When you come up to a steep hill you can hear when the motor starts to bog down so increase your power level as well as changing down to a lower gear for the climb. Once you reach the top of your hill, put your power level back to where you need it (1 or 2) & change your gears to where you need them for a comfortable cadence. It's the bogging down of your motor that does the damage so keep the motor in it's happy rev range by choosing your gears to maintain your comfortable cadence.
@@daytriker Thanks for the reply. I mostly ride that way. I think the problem I'm having is since the motor does so much of the work it's hard to tell what gear I actually need to be in most of the time. I normally push off with my legs when I start riding to make it easier on the motor. I just wonder how bad it would be to mostly just leave the bike in the middle gears and not fuss with it too much unless there's a clear sign the motor is bogging. This video also thought me that too high of a cadence can be bad as well but my bike reaches hi cadence very quickly.
@@josephi6916 I believe there is a misunderstanding of 'too high a cadence.' To use a standard transmission as an analogy, if you are not in the correct gear to allow your engine to run efficiently you can hear it bog down. Also if you leave your transmission in too low a gear, you will be revving the motor more than is necessary wasting power or fuel. I would suggest leaving your power level low & increasing it as required since this will most certainly force you to use your gearing first.
Nice videos you make about Bafang.
Shifting gear to a lighter gear is almost impossible, the rpm of the Bafang is to low. You have to use the torque to get to speed
when riding with the throttle you can rev to maximum, just be aware that too much torque on the motor axle it will compromise the motor.
I have a BBSHD mounted on my SunSeeker trike. The other day I heard grinding sounds in the motor. Then the pedals locked up. The motor still works via the throttle and that got me home. I have about 2000 miles on the trike. Any idea what the problem is?
The roller bearing responsible for supporting the pedal axle has been damaged. Why? Overtorque when tightening the motor to the trike frame. On the left side of the motor, where the nut and mount are, remove the gasket that's on the shaft and remove the special nuts that are threaded to the shaft and you will be able to slide the axle of the bearings and replace that damaged bearing. Good luck with your repair.
You don't need to unmount the motor from the trike frame, you can maintain the motor attached to the frame and all wires to do this repair.
@@frcr90 If the housing has been distorted, will that not shorten the life of the new bearing?
@@Jeff20657 it shorten the life of the old bearing. Press (don’t hammer) a new bearing in. If you think you deformed the housing too much, buy a new motor, but I don’t think that’s the case. What I can say from my experience is that that bearing breaks by over tightening the motor to the frame or corrosion. You mentioned 2000miles, how many months to cover that distance?
@@frcr90 2 Years. How about a video showing how to do this repair?
Thnx for your videos. I have been running a BBSHD for over 5 years, opened it to look at overall condition & to lube it last year when transferring it to another bike. Being able to program cadence and power levels (as well as setting it for max power) has made it very easy & comfortable to use, especially on technical mountain biking trails. You are so correct about shifting, having been a year-round commuter and mountain biker on "acoustic" bikes, it is second nature to me on electric bikes.
I'm glad to have you in this channel, welcome to Cyberbikes. What do you think our next video should talk about?
@@Cyberbikesau so far, I have only seen this one video of yours, the algorithm just suggested it. At some point, covering programming for the BBS01/02 & BBSHD also external controllers for the hub drive folks, either separately or as a comparison. I do not know how many folks have actually done it.
@@davebrown9725 Nice one, we have a quick programming video ua-cam.com/video/bX-gFdU6aBM/v-deo.html&lc=UgwPeB7ZCUdPoSWUHep4AaABAg.9knzFOb63-o9lSFfOkBp2V and the controller for hub guys that's nice though. Thanks for the insights
You don't have to shift anything, just buy a normal controller not bafang piece of shit
I have also changed of the (many) setup parameters by using a USB cable & software. It runs indeed smoother and better adjusted to my riding style. This should also protect the unit and reduce wear of the drive train.
Great video. My problem is motor stopped working mid ride. Charged up and would not turn on. Battery voltage is 51 on 48 v battery. Had a working new same system so i started replacing parts. Display was first choice and it worked. Then throttle. New throttle didnt fix. I tried my throttle on my bike and it does not work on known working system. Still no motor. When i try working system with my motor its no go. Could motor and throttle go out at once?. Thanks Steve
Go on the brake cut off then the controller or motor hall sensor, if no error code on the display, check the phase wires
Great video as always! I just installed my Bbs02b 500w a month ago. Everything is going well, however I experienced a slight ticking noise when pedaling? I am just about to take it apart and change all the grease (primary & secondary gear) to Mobilgrease SHC100. What do you think about that?
Hi Bengt thanks for your feedback. If you haven’t ridden your bike in mud and adverse conditions, there’s no need to open the motor and grease it. I suggest doing it when the motor reaches 5000km. I would focus my attention on the drive train, you might have gears that are not matching properly with the chain or there’s a frozen chain link. Let me know how it goes. Cheers
@@Cyberbikesau No, the ticking noise is definitely coming from the motor. It's not disturbing in any way. Just a slight ticking, not all the time. Primarily when I start pedaling for a couple of minutes, then it disappears. That leads me to think that it is a greasing thing?
@@bengtmowitz5012 I think if it was greasing the motor would sound all the time but not intermittently
@@Cyberbikesau Okej I will replace the chain and the cassette and see how it goes.
@@bengtmowitz5012 before replacing it, try tunning the gears and checking for a frozen chain link. We don’t have a video about it, but because it could be a problem you’re facing, we will record a video about it
Need help please if you can!Motor 750w 36t chainring brand new motor,i sense some vibrations in pedals.I mean after 1-2 hours feels like my feet sat on 2 vibrathing phones.Changed ,chain, casette,even went to someone to remove some casette speeds for the chain to be aligned with the chain ring.Still no improvement.
the motor might be loose on the frame
Hello Felipe! I would like to congratulate you for your videos! They are great!
I'm following all your tips here on your channel and I'm applying them to my BBS01.
I would like to ask for your kindness and suggest that, if possible, you produce some videos addressing the problems with electrical and electronic components. How to detect these problems and how to fix them. I'm here in Brazil and technical assistance is very far away. It is located in São Paulo. The company is really good, but the logistics for me are very complicated due to the distance and cost. With these classes that you give us on your channel, it opens up a great possibility of solving it right here in my city. I had a problem with the main cable giving err 30. I managed to detect the problem, I will replace it with a new one and install it following your recommendation. Thanks for your excellent work! Keep helping us! A big hug!!
Glad you were able to solve your main cable issue. Mine broke a conductor and would not even turn on. Very glad I had a spare on hand for troubleshooting and immediate replacement. I was more careful with the routing this time, I think the cable had gotten crushed between the double crown fork and the frame.
If we launch ebike classes, would you own them?
Yes, I would take the course. You have excellent teaching skills, despite the language barrier I can understand you well.
super helpful, thanks. I've either stripped my nylon gear or granny gear. It won't catch in 2-3 speed now and sounds like gling-dingadingading when its not catching
the equation is simple:
Big chainring + heavy ebike + not always starting on first gear + riding at low speeds on high gears = motor problems
Hi. great to see info on Bafang motors out there - here's my problem and your diagnosis would be gratefully received. The battery is old but still functioning, with range greatly down but with frequent charging it's fine... frequently now however the motor does not engage (the assist is zero bars) and sometimes this is accompanied by the screen going dead. Sometimes I can have it on, get no assistance for 10 minutes or so and then suddenly the motor kicks it and we're back to normal. An intermittent problem! What to do? Many thanks J
Hi J, it's important to don't make confusion with the symptoms.
1. Battery losing capacity, that will eventually cause the bike to shut off under load. The display will turn off and the bike will die. Re-balancing the battery cells my solve this issue in the short term. Replacing the battery will solve this issue in the long term.
2. The bike being ON and no assist whatsoever, means that you have a trigger on the brake sensors. Maybe your brake lever is damaged, or your brake pads are worn out. Unplug the brake sensors and see if the bike stopped cutting off. If it stopped to cut off, you have to access why the brake sensors are being triggered and fix it!
If you appreciate our time and dedication to solving your problem please generously give us a good review g.page/r/CX0AoVbmxOSwEBM/review
Best regards!
When I turn on the power in the controller the battery charge displayed recently has changed. starting at 0, going up to some %. Recently it stopped working when turned on at the controller it turned on and then off immediately. then it turn on normally. I think it could be a short but nothing is obvious. any advice?
the battery could be detached from the craddle, the battery connectors could be damaged, the controller could be failling, the display cable to controller could be damaged.
Which grease do you recommend for the bbs02b primary and secondary gears? I read about the Mobilgrease SHC100, it's a Lithium based grease. Recommended as a replacement for the Mobil 28, which is hard to find in Europe.
That’s a good grease, I checked it’s data sheet:
Mobilith SHC 100 is an antiwear and extreme pressure grease primarily recommended for higher speed applications such as electric motors, where reduced friction, low wear and long service life are required. It is an NLGI 2 Grade / ISO VG 100 grease with a synthetic base fluid. Its operating temperature range is -40º C* to 150º C.
As a rule of thumb go with high temp grease from a decent brand, it can be with lithium or not, higher viscosity is key for this application
@@Cyberbikesau I think I will replace the original grease anyway, it's the petroleum based black grease in the secondary gear, it has a tendency of spread to the primary nylon gear and in the long run cause decay.
@@bengtmowitz5012 I don’t think so, otherwise bafang wouldn’t use that grease in their motors. Bafang has sold more than millions of motors so far
@@Cyberbikesau Yea, one would think so. But there are a many sources included UA-cam that claims that the Black Moly grease is harmful for plastics. I don't know if it is both the bbs02 and the new bbs02b?
@@bengtmowitz5012 we are talking here about metal gears, what I understood for primary and secondary are the granny and pinion gears I mentioned in the video. For the nylon gear use a non lithium extra dense grease or a friction reduction paste
Good video I just built a bike with the BBSHD works great !
Awesome, keep riding!
For problem #2 - What is the same if the socket which goes on the end of the torque wrench please? And what is the actual name of that nut? Thank you
Bafang locking nut and bafang tool kit tool
I'm worried about the seat post going up my butt
Hello thank you for this video. I’m looking at bafang and CYC or hub drive motor. I like mid most. The kit I’m looking for to fit Scott aspect 950 but unsure what front gear I need.
That's why people hire our services
I’m starting to see a pattern here. Shift your mid drive
You say you install wider steel caged bearing can you please tell me what's bearing number for this one
It’s in the comments here
1:30-1:52 i didnt really understand how to avoid the water from following the wires and getting into the body where the wires attach to it?? thanks otherwise for a great video!!
water follows the gravity which will follow the wire if its a straight line down to the controller, try making an arc with the wire an U shape then running the cable up the frame
My unit is now 5 years old and I am experiencing occasional intermittent partial power loss. I have checked the brake handle cut-out sensors and the power supply. The display is always working without any error messages. Does the motor have a thermal cut-out? What else shoud I be checking?
Remove the controller and check the phase wires. If the connectors look melted and with lots of resistance build up, re-do them.
Thank you for your suggestion. I just found out that the right brake handle cut-out sensor was too sensitive - it needed to travel just a fraction of a millimetre to activate which could have been caused by road bumps or accidental touching. I adjusted the magnet and hopefully there is no other problem.
so what will you recommend to avoid those 8 problems? the bafang mid drive motor parts are available and where to purchase? thanks for giving us tips bro. more power.
shift gears, start on the 1st gear of the cassette and as the speed increases shift gears up. Before you stop the bike, bring the gears back to 1st gear
I find that the power of my Bafang 500w is so great that I have to change up gears 2 or 3 at a time to keep up with the acceleration and spend most of my riding time in top gear averaging 35 kph for flat cruising. I guess that is exactly the way to wear out my gears? What if I could fit a CVT in lieu of derailleurs? Would that help keep my motor in good shape?
Hi Keith, the secret to have a bafang motor that lives for a long time is to make it spin fast. You could have a CVT which is an improvement in comparison to derailleurs, but if you don’t tune the CVT or don’t shift gears on the derailleur to allow your motor to spin fast you will damage the motor.
Your channel is one of the most useful and informative for someone who possess an electric bike, like me. Congratulations for the great quality videos 😉🙌
Thank you very much!
Fck it, im staying with my DD hub motor xD That thing is overcomplicated
Yeah its better off
What's with the elevator music...? 😮
This is an excellent video! Much appreciated.
You're very welcome!
thank you boss!
You're welcome!
Thank you so much for this video. You save a lot of BBS :D
What can be? My battery say 58.6v so is almost full (is 52v battery no bbshd motor) but When i plug in to the motor is show me 60% battery, two battery same issue, what i can do? :(
your display is set to 60V batteries
@@Cyberbikesau i dont think so, i plug in the phone whit the otg, or the c961 u cant change the voltage
@@itzpiromane97 your display is set to 48V and it reads up to 54.5V which is about 60% of the 52V battery
My bafang wont power up, due to my dumbass turned it on while charging
it doesnt cause damages, it wont power up because of something else