I tend to forget that many, if not all, people know adays have no clue about shifting whatsoever. For those growing up on motorbike and manual shifted cars and trucks, it all makes perfect sense. But to those who only used automatics, its like learning all over again. These types of videos are an absolute must for the newcomer to mid-drive e-bikes....
Subscribed! Great video. Going to kill my shift sensor on my Lectric XPremium now. Thought about it before as I have been riding multigear bikes all my life and HATE that motor cutout when shifting. Glad I found you! Update: I just went out and pulled the cover off my mid drive motor (left side) and followed the wire from the gear sensor to under the cover. It was as easy as unplugging that one wire and putting that cover back on! Can't believe I didnt do it sooner! When the bike was newer I was afraid to take things apart and only was looking at the sensor itself. I thought about cutting the wire since I couldn't find where to unplug it. Glad I didnt. Simple unplug under the plastic cover. So much better!
I’m glad I found and subbed to this guy’s channel… he provides great common sense advice and information. Fortunately, we live in a time where we can purchase almost anything. Unfortunately, many people have no idea how to use and properly maintain these items. Then they get frustrated when they don’t perform as expected. Take care.
Thank you for your informative video. Ever since I first learned how to ride a 10 speed bike I was always taught to pedal while I change gears. Hitting the break to change Gears seems counterintuitive. I have brake sensors and a gear sensor. They both work amazing. The key for me is if I am ascending a hill, I stay in first gear the whole time. I don’t change gears. I may increase my pedal assist, but by staying in first gear, my motor is happy all the way up the hill.
youre not pressing the brakes you're pressing a clutch that is built into the brake lever, you have to learn how to ride a new sort of bike, it's an ebike not a standard 10 speed bicycle anymore. The gear sensor has a purpose, but you lose all performance of the kit, imagine you could climb that hill shifting gears up and accelerating like the tasmanian devil on the trails ehhehehe each person is different, glad you know how to use your ebike now cheers
@@Cyberbikesau although power shifting wears the chain and sprockets more. I think if you are slowing down that much using the shift sensor, you probably weren't ready for the next gear up.
Absolutely excellent information you're sharing on this channel. I haven't heard anyone mention this info. Thanks so much for taking the time. I wish you were my local shop.
Hey man, thanks for making my day happier, I wish too you were our local customer! Please like and share our videos, we will bring more relevant content to you, Cyberbiker!
Good thinking, I'll give this a go a my gear changes are so clunky through multiple gears when it's assist mode, I don't want the gear change cable connected so this should help.
Thank you so much didn't know letting off the throttle before shifting up. This is my first conversion e-bike as a noob. I do have brake shut offs & gear sensor learning how to kill power while down shifting.
Let’s make it 100 comments. You answered my question. Could not figure why this happens on 2 of my gears. Inertia!! My gear change was not complete before power came back on. Subscribed
Another very useful 🎥. I've ridden mountain bikes for years and gear shifting has become automatic. I don't like the gear sensor either. Thanks for mentioning it! No one else has! Aloha
I've just made myself an e bike with the bafang motor I wish I'd watched this vid before I started hammering the beast. I'm sussing it out myself now, there's a real art to the smooth riding of these things, should probably have driving lessons on them, especially with the power assist on full whack!
@@Cyberbikesau I have mate, it needs gluing on properly like, Ive been dabbing it on the way in to work this morning, using it like a clutch. The back brakes a bit soft as well so it doesn't actually brake until it's fully pulled so that's working great
Ahahha nice mate, keep up the good work! We might record a video on how to install the brake sensors to help anyone looking for some insights. Stay tuned for more and thanks for subscribing to our channel
Hi Felipe. I greatly appreciate your insights and all the time you devote to helping others understand this amazing invention of putting electric motors on their bikes. I absolutely love mine. I wanted to weigh in and share my two cents about the brake sensor amid mountain biking applications. It came with my purchase but I chose not to install it and I’m glad I did not. I find there are many times, such as ascending switchbacks, where I am breaking against the assist. Or, I pull the brake levers in just where they are about to touch the pads to set myself up in case I have to break against the assist. If the motor cut out I would lose all my momentum and not make the switchback. Even on the lowest assist level the amount of propulsion can be more than I want on twisty narrow climbs (or switchbacks) so I need to slow it down but cannot afford to lose that assist. Anyway, my two cents. Take care, and all the best to you.
Hey Max, I agree with you but it also depends on the controller settings you have on your bike. You mentioned in another comment before that you burnt the brand new motor controller after trying new programming settings 7 times, so I guess you're running your controller stock now. You could add instant torque (as its and off-road beast) and leave a very low delay to cut off the PAS, and a quicker PAS activation. That would solve the switchbacks and would allow a kill switch on the brake lever because you never know what could go wrong. It could be a tree branch or your finger. To summarise, each rider has their own settings that will best suit their application. And thanks for sharing your thoughts.
I'm glad I found this. I have a Bafang mid drive and I've just ripped the teeth off the cassette after about 150 miles. I have hydraulic brakes and the magnets don't fit into them so they are absolutely useless. Also the sensor hasn't got a flat surface to glue onto. I got so frustrated with them sticking on or off all the time I have disconnected them. So I now stop pedalling when I make a gear change. I think I'm going to buy some skinnier magnets from Amazon to see if I can get the sensors to work with them. After I have changed the cassette that is! 😤
With my bike before the mid-drive I normally took off in the middle of the cassette. The lower gears were for hills. So I still do it this way after the install. But I do have a 36” chainring. Maybe that’s why. My lowest gear I can only pedal to about 6 km/h. It’s too low of a gear to take off with
Shifting becomes very easy (with or without a gear sensor) if you gently pedal while shifting, just enough to keep the chain moving. I tend to pedal during the entire process of going through the gears, it's the best way to get to 5th or 6th quickly and cleanly.
Chris we agree with you, however it’s depends on how skilled the rider is, what sort of motor the bike has and what type of settings are in its controller. Can you tell us what motor and settings your using?
@@ChrisB... that’s why you can easily shift gears when pedalling. If there was a pedal assist sensor triggering the motor when you’re pedalling the gear shifting would be completely messed up. Throttle only is the best for gear shifting because you can stop throttling, shift the gears (pedalling or using the inertia of the chainring) then throttle again. Also, with throttle only setups not often needs a brake sensor
Thank you for that video. It's so helpfull. Just an opinion, I think you have the same problem you describe wile climbing a hill by using gear sensor or cutting the power with the brake. The motor stalls in both cases because both cases are the same. You are cutting the motor and start it again from zero, forcing it, once shifted to the bigger pinion. Greatings from Madrid!
The biggest difference is. Who said that you need to cut the power with the brake sensor? You can shift gears on a split second, quick no throttling time, and you continue gaining speed while climbing. With the gear sensor installed you have no choice other than cutting off the power, loosing momentum, and damaging your motor due to higher gear at lower speeds
@@Cyberbikesau Ok. So if I understand, to select bigger pinions (to go up in the cassette), you dont need to cut the motor, only to go down in the cassette. Am I right? you take advantage of the inertia in both cases for shifting, I supose... I've already electrify my double suspension's Top Fuel 8 Trek and when I tested it for the first time, I felt the chain and cassette very forced in both upper and lower directions. I don't have gear sensor and I have to replace the front hidraulic brake with the Bafangs one, to be able to cut the motor when shifting. Thank you for your answer and tips!
Thank you, very informative video and got me thinking twice about the gear sensor should I decide to get the Bafang motor. Could I just ask - so if I'm just using the pedal assist (without the throttle), shifting gears would be done the same way as with a normal bike, i.e. the gear sensor would not be useful as well? Sorry I am a newbie to electric bikes so am still learning. Thanks
when using PAS is when you will struggle the most to shift gears because the motor will be pulling the chain with lots of power and the chain is snap and cassette will get damaged. In case of riding only with PAS you have to get brake sensors and maybe a shift sensor. If you decide to go throttle only you need only the throttle =) and a brake sensor on one of the lever is enough (riding for performance)
I'm getting close to order and build my e-bike Felipe and I'm so exited. Watch a lot of good videos like yours . I notice you have a chain guide on your bike I'm I correct ? I was thinking about a lekkie bling ring to hold the chain better in place but holy snozzels they are expensive. Would a chain guide do the trick ? I look forward to hearing from you. Thanks
Hey Marc, thanks for your comment. Yeah, I am sure you gonna fall in love with your ebike. About the chain guide and bling ring, what really matters are two things: 1. The chain line. Is the chain line too crossed when your ebike is on first gear? If yes, you have to add a chain guide because only the bling ring won't hold the chain in place. 2. Is your ebike full suspension, I mean, the rear of the bike will swing up and down? If that's the case you have to have a bling ring because the teeth are higher and will prevent the chain from slipping on top of the chainring. Cheers, thanks for your comment. (Felipe)
He sido antes motociclista de moto de trail que ciclista, así que en mi primera bicicleta con marchas dejaba de pedalear para cambiar de marcha al igual que dejaba de acelerar para cambiar de marcha en la moto y con la ebike que he construido dejo de acelerar para cambiar de marcha también, en este caso al no tener embrague confío en la inercia del plato para que termine de engranar la marcha, no tiene la suavidad del uso del embrague en mi moto, pero tampoco se maneja tanta potencia y creo que conservará la cadena y cassette mejor.
I saw hardly any inertia moving the chain after you released the slight-brake. So should you not be pedaling when you move the gear shift lever? The wheel kept spinning of course, but the chain stopped rather quickly, too quick to be moving when you moved the shift lever? or was the little residual movement enough?
All this time, I have been taking off on 6th gear, however whenever I take off, i roll the bike forward with my foot and then I apply the throttle veryy slowly and gently to slowly accelerate, then when I have picked up some speed I start pedalling to avoid strain on drivetrain
Ali I would not recommend doing that to anyone, and for prolonged periods you will cause internal damages to the motor/controller or drivetrain of your bike. What you’re doing is the same then engaging 3rd gear on a manual car and opening the door and pushing the car then jumping back in and throttling slowly till you get some speed. The gears of your bike are there so be wise and use them!
@@frcr90 I followed your advice, and now the gear shifting technique has become so easy and natural for me, I am so glad I found this video before it was too late, I only recently just converted my bike to the bafang mid drive, so I was still learning, thank you very much Felipe for the help.
On my eTrike, the 4th gear seems low enough for an easy startup. & I think the chain is in more of a straight line that in first gear. So you think that is somehow bad so long as it is easy to pedal at start that way? So what is the problem to start in 4th gear with no pedal assist when it is easy to do?
i have a Bafang M620 on my new ebike. Last week i had problem with freehub pawls being stuck so i was ghost pedaling it was like i had no chain .I got it fixed. From the beginning when i am going 30+kph in max pas 5 and gear 8 when i use throttle to go max speed while accelerating i get knocking sound like(tok) i guess its the motor chain doing this .Is this mechanical problem .? it what way can i operate this motor without knocking ? Thank you
Hi, thanks for your comment. The motor should always produce a smooth sound. That tok tok could be the disc brakes rubbing on the calliper or your have a frozen link on the chain, it could also be that the gears are out of tune or for example if you’re not used to shifting gears, you could have damaged the teeth of the cassette of gears and the chain is now slipping on top of them. Take the bike to a bike mechanic to have a look, I gave you a few options to what look for. Cheers
great video. For anyone who has ridden a motorbike this should feel completely natural. You should be rolling off the throttle as you clutch and shift. This is the same! Just dont have the power on your chain when you shift.
On a Mission, thanks for your comment. The brake sensor gives you the choice of when to kill the motor while shifting gears, not in all conditions (climbing steep hills, riding on a trail or racing) you want the motor to stop powering the bike while you shift gears. Also, there are two types of gear sensors and they have different delay times. When using a gear sensor, please connect it directly to the controller gear sensor port, not on the brake cables. By doing that, you gonna reduce the delay of the gear shifter. Cheers from Cyberbikes
Which sensor are you referring to? You maybe able to do without the gear sensor but l can do without the brake sensor and never had any issues. But unless you only use the throttle all the time it's a difficult job riding without any sensor and not do any damage to motor and components.
I very rarely use the throttle, and from the beginning, I've been changing gears by lightly squeezing the brake, activating the brake sensor, shifting, pedaling, then releasing the brake. There's a 1 second delay built into the software after the brake sensor is released where the motor remains off. This is more than enough for the gear change to complete before the motor starts running again. So from my understanding, I'm doing pretty much the same as your demonstration, except I'm using the cadence sensor instead of the throttle. I've been thinking of wiring both brake sensors to the same input on the 1-to-4 cable, then using the second input to connect a handlebar button that would basically act as a clutch. That way I'd be pressing a separate button whenever I want the motor killed instead of using the brake levers as some sort of hybrid clutch/brake. What I'm wondering is what's the wrong way of doing this? Are there people out there shifting without killing the motor first?
Nice, you're doing it right. There’s a second video I recorded going deeper into this explanation because even though one is shifting gears and not using the throttle, they still could be damaging the motor because of the chainring size, low pedalling cadence, a small cassette of gears, big wheel diameter, heavy rider/loaded bike, and so on... ua-cam.com/video/jb3v5Y0Q2l0/v-deo.html If you like the explanation and want to help our channel, please give us a 5 star review on Google g.page/r/CX0AoVbmxOSwEBM/review
My bike already has a shift sensor that cuts power to the motor when shifting….. so I just make sure I ease up on pedaling & throttle during the shift… Seems to work well for me..
Yep, that should work well for your application, and if you race against a bike that has no gear sensor probably you will be left behind, so let's say that for maximum performance and trails I (Felipe) would not go with a gear sensor, for other applications like yours the gear sensor suits well because you're aware on how to use it properly.
Yep that's right Joe just don't stop peddling completely as you need the drivetrain engaged for the derailleur to do its job properly in changing gears otherwise you get that awful crunching noise happening. When braking you should stop peddling at the same time though, to once again disengage the motor.
Cool… thnx guys…pretty sure the manufacturer of my bike uses a shift sensor so they wont get a lot of warranty problems when dealing with “dummies”, hahaha😂👍🏻 Thnx for the advice!..
i have 750w BBS02 and using generally 1 or 2 PAS over 5. gear mostly hıgh 6-7-8-9/9 motor power avarage 500w, is it can be harmful? i think if motor consume like around1000w can be harmful for motor i always consider about how much power consuming now
The more watts you put in the motor the more you damage the motor, however, even at 500W, if you're using a heavy gear (9) at very low speeds, you're damaging the motor. Because of your doubt I am going to record a video talking about that.
The more watts you put in the motor the more you damage the motor, however, even at 500W, if you're using a heavy gear (9) at very low speeds, you're damaging the motor. Because of your doubt I am going to record a video talking about that.
Will I get the brake sensor lever as standard with most BBSHD kits? Im building a slow, very low geared, granny trike project to pull a large four wheeled trailer. Permanent ride along mode sort of thing.
The brake levers for mechanical disc brakes are included in the kit, that's the standard. Some companies also include the sensors for hydraulic brakes but it varies and I cannot confirm your order includes those sensors. Better check with who you ordered your kit with. Thanks for your comment, Cheers.
Yes, that's an option if you want to preserve the motor, better to start in a low gear (high torque) and maintain it all the way up. If you're racing, you could shift gears up without using the brake sensor and add human power to the pedals. Remember, it's best to make these motors spin fast than spin slow.
So, my Bafang 02 is on order. I am excited! If the bike has hydraulic brakes would you recommend changing to mechanical or using the gear sensor instead? And, how do the complete e-bike manufacturers who ship the bikes with disc brakes get around the problem? You have an excellent channel and I have learned so much. Gracias. 🙏
Hi Max, thanks for your comment. Keep the hydraulic brakes, because they will stop your ebike quicker than mechanical brakes. I suggest installing at least one brake sensor in one of the brake levers (would suggest on the left-hand lever if that's also your rear brake). The gear sensor doesn't stop the motor unless you're shifting gears, so don't make confusion between the gear sensor and brake sensor, they are different things, however, the brake sensor can do exactly what the gear sensor does but not the other way around. I (Felipe) particularly don't like gear sensors, their delay to activate the motor might cause more damage than they are supposed to prevent.
@@Cyberbikesau Thanks so much, Felipe. I appreciate it! This will be used exclusively for mountain biking and encountering many pitches and inclines where I will want to get down to the lowest gear. So, I believe the technique you use is engaging the brake lever just enough where it doesn’t actually apply the brakes but the magnetic sensor cuts the power to the motor and holding the lever in that position until I get shifted all the way down to the lowest gear? Is that correct? I doubt I will hardly ever use the throttle except for a hike -a-bike sections. And, conversely when beginning downhills shifting wouldn’t be an issue at all as you wouldn’t need to cut any power to the motor? Thanks again. 👍
@@peacelovegoldenrule Yes, that’s correct, Max. About the throttle, we have set a standard here at Cyberbikes where we install the thumb throttle on the left-hand side, so your right-hand shifts the gears and press the brake, and the left-hand throttles and presses the brakes, kind of 2 functionalities to each hand, and I bet you are going to use the throttle more than you think! Going downhill will depend on the speed you’re at because if you’re standing still and then start rolling down, the motor accelerates faster than the bike so that it could mess up the gears. With a bit of practice, you will Get the hang of it. Answering the other question you asked after the edit: bike manufacturers install brake levers with an inbuilt brake sensor. Those brakes are way more reliable than the brake sensors we install. However, you have to find the balance between costs/benefits/reliability/availability. If you find one brake you like with an integrated lever, go for it
Alex this is what this video is all about. There are two ways: 1. Using a brake cut-off to stop the motor and shift the gears ; 2. Reving the motor to its maximum speed then letting off the throttle and using the inertia that's still on the motor to shift the chain to a higher gear. Please watch the video till the end. I will mention why I don't recommend gear sensors. Cheers, Felipe from Cyberbikes
@@alexsainsbury2176 On a steep hill, I would not use the brake sensor. I would keep the motor at high revs and pass the entire hill without shifting gear up. As you said, it's a steep hill! However, if you want to gain speed while climbing, use the motor's inertia don't use the brake sensor.
Yes sorry about all the confusion Alex, as it's not exactly rocket science as some would make it out to be. Just buy a high wattage / high torque output mid drive ebike. Stick it in a low gear then forget about the gears and either use throttle or the peddle assistance modes or both to cruise up not at snails pace nor at a break a land speed record pace and you will do just fine without any physical exertion or burnt out motors to worry obout.
Good news for the brake sensor fan club. Bafung have just released onto the market an E - Stop brake button, specifically designed like their gear sensor to cut power to the motor when changing gears or for any other urgent cutting out of motor power in an emergency. So hands off that lever and get used to a now genuine clutch like button.
a kill switch button has been in the market for a long time, much needed for safety but not better for shifting. We will stick with our Cybershifting till something else better comes along, cheers.
Do they make a Shimano 8 speed derailleur with clutch it seems this might help with my chain knocking issue according to my bike mechanic since derailleur would be stiffer
Yes, that might help especially if you ride a full suspension. You can try to shorten the chain with a quick link to see if that helps. I am not aware of a 8s derailleur with clutch but if you find any please post here in the comments. Cheers thanks for your contribution
@@frcr90No rear suspension on my Fatbike I tried removing 3 links but i still get same knocking issue when i am in top gear. Will post if i find a 8 speed derailleur .Thanks again .
Talked to the company that sold me the bike they say it was normal to have problems in top gear with gear skipping since motor is very powerful ,rightttt..... if the wrong parts are on it for sure . Nowwww they offer to upgrade the derailleur to a BOX 8 speed clutch derailleur and shifter they say it will solve the issue but i still have to pay for it even if i think it's a flaw selling a bike with poor or inadequate parts .Anyways will see how that goes
Company that sells my bike has a 8 speed replacement BOX clutch derailleur and shifter kit for me but it's not free so basically they sell a flawed bike and sells what they say is an "UPGRADED" derailleur lol .
@@frcr90 Yes i found a clutch derailleur for my Bafang M620 it is a BOX 4 -8speed derailleur and shifter Shimano shifter does not work with BOX derailleur . So now with new derailleur and shifter works perfectly .No more knocking or slipping in 7th or 8th gear
Hi Felipe ,tomorrow I'm ordering my 1000 w bafang mid- drive motor kit. Can you suggest a controller there's many as optional and I don't know which one to take. In case it's relevant to you my battery will be 48 volts. Looking forward to hear from you ! Cheers.
Like honestly shifting gears for maintenance purposes on an ebike especially one with a mid drive motor is no different from shifting gears on a manual transmission car including for slowing, stopping and starting from stationary in first gear. Your gear or brake sensor is your clutch on an ebike. In peddle assist mode this sensor will disengage the motor allowing you to keep on peddling as normal whether shifting up or down gears. Using throttle only mode you don't need a sensor as you just release the throttle then shift gears whilst peddling as Felipe explained. As for shifting up a gear travelling uphill that is a no no. As in a car shift down and select a low gear approaching the hill and stick with that gear until you reach the summit. If more power is needed just go up in peddle assistance mode or use the throttle as you would use the accelerator in a car. Absolutely no dramas climbing up the steepest of hills with ease for a 750 or 1000 watt mid drive motor as their made to give out heaps of torque when choosing a low gear. Just don't try breaking any land speed record as your climbing but nor do you have to travel at snails pace either. If you stick with this principle their is nothing wrong with utilising a gear sensor, as the brake sensor that comes with the bafung mid drive conversion kit only works on mechanical disc brake set ups not on hydraulic disc brakes. I also don't like the thumb throttles on ebikes as their not modulated very good, so jerky and reving up the motor with one means a sudden burst of speed, not ideal for city commuting on busy roads or for off road trails where a smooth transition of speed is required for both conditions. In fact not all ebikes have throttles anyway. Though they are useful from a stationary start considering the extra weight of an ebike . And not all ebikes have brake sensors either.
You can install aftermarket brake sensors, they work great, and I recommend having them in any ebike. The main difference between motorbikes and cars in comparison to ebikes is that the clutch disengages the motor, and you can select any gear from the gearbox. However, on an ebike, the clutch stops the motor but doesn't disengage the gears, which means you have to sequentially shift gears up and down
Yeah that works as well but there’s too much inertia on the legs to stop it timely. Reving up the motor and letting go the throttle for a fraction of a second then shift is much quicker and precise
Just understand reving up the motor means increasing the amount of throttle which will also give you a sudden burst of speed, so not the most smoothest way to change gears especially if their is somebody close in front of you. You dont want to run up their backside, so just slow down your peddling /cadence then shift up or down and let the motor cut off sensor and derailleur do their jobs.
That's another way of doing it but not efficient as there's too much mass on human legs to sudden stop it, moreover, you will need movement on the chainring to make the chain change sprockets, how will you do that if you're not pedalling?
definitely chains and the cassette, especially if you don't clean and apply lubricant regularly. For me I clean and lube around every 100km of riding. You will get an average of around 4000km (depending on use) if you clean regularly but if you don't, well I had to replace my chain after only 1600km and that was when I use to only apply lube without the cleaning.
I'm confused. In the scenario of shifting gears mid climb, wouldn't engaging brake lightly to kill power also result in loss of speed and the explosive combination you described as a negative aspect of the gear sensor?
Thanks for your comment David. In the situation of shifting gears mid climbing, I suggest reving the motor to its maximum RPM, release the throttle for a fraction of a second, shift one gear up and then press the throttle again. We would shift the gear just using the inertia of the chainring. For shifting mid climbing I would not stop the motor at all, and would do the gear shifting as fast as possible but not throttling at the same time. That’s something you can’t do when there’s a gear sensor on the cable line.
@@frcr90 I guess I just don't understand because I haven't ridden one of these bikes yet. I'll be building my first one as soon as the battery arrives. It just seems to me that ON FLAT GROUND whether the motor power is cut by gear shifter or by partially engaging break that it shouldn't make a difference. Cut power is cut power. Unless the gear sensor lags. On climb, I suspect that process of releasing chain tension and shifting has to be very fast and maybe the gear shifter motor cutoff is too slow. I suspect it doesn't engage until after the shifting process begins. But I understand that you suggest it's better to not have motor cut off for shifting on climb and just not throttle. So I guess the need not to stall out and lose momentum is greater than shifting with no pressure on chain. If I understand you. I've heard others say the gear sensor is good to have. I'm not sure why if it lags and you can achieve a better effect with slight brake engagement.
@@davidr9876 you have to build and ride your ebike, then find the settings that work best for you. Let me know your opinion once you have built and ridden your ebike for 1000km-5000km-15000km
David if using throttle only you don't need either a gear sensor or a brake sensor as fully releasing the throttle disengages the motor. Better off just choosing a low gear depending on the hills steepness and length as you approach it and sticking with that gear all the way to the top. Just use your throttle and/or pedal assistance modes to adjust your power as you go up. No problems with a high wattage/ high torque output mid drive motor in climbing hills at a reasonable pace in a low gear anyway. Like riding fast on flat ground all the time is going to shorten its life span, so will constantly riding up steep hills shorten the lifetime of any ebike motor and components.
@@Cyberbikesau Ok thanks. I heard it's fine but you would want to mess with the gear ratio by using a smaller chainring, like 36T and you won't have as high of top speed. But idk shit I've never even had an ebike, just now trying to figure out what I want my first build to be and I like the lightweight and nimble simplicity of single gear BMX like 24, 26 and 27.5 cruisers.
@@urbandisturbin get a full suspension MTB 26" from the years 2010-2012. The motor will fit like a glove, with heaps of battery space and braking power (how are you gonna stop a BMX going 45km/h, with your feet?) Be wise!
As far as the gear sensor scenario of going up hill and the sensor killing the motor for you to change gears, wouldn't the brake technique do the same thing? Either way you must kill the engine to switch gears, correct?
Try to stop pedalling when your pedalling cadence is 60 strokes per minute, you can't, there's so much mass in your legs that you can't stop it quickly. If you pedal slowly and alleviate the force on your legs, you will still be triggering the motor with the rotation of the crank. The method you suggested would only work at low levels of assistance or on a 250W motor. Also, the PAS settings have to have a low "Time of stop" like 100ms
When using pedal assistance mode 1-5 or 1-9 and at most bike speeds with moderate leg cadence gear sensors work just fine, without a delay in cutting out the motor, like if they didn't work Bafung and other manufacturers would have been forced to withdraw them years ago, instead they've gone on to sell millions of them. You just need to slow down your leg cadence rate that's all as you still need the drive chain turning over for the derailleur to do its job properly in changing gears smoothly , just without all that torque and stressors from the motor.
@@Cyberbikesau Not a rear hub motor - an internally geared hub, as opposed to traditional cassette gearing (ex: shimano nexus 7) paired with a mid drive motor
@@OrlandoPaco e ai Orlando aqui é o Felipe, valeu pelo comentario a gnt vai postar mais videos logo em Março com a chegada do nosso e-commerce (cyberbikes.com). Desde que ganhei a cidadania Australiana estou com esse bigode e o cabelo estilo Mullets hehehhe. Nois cara abraço and Ebike All the Way!
Hi Felipe ! I'm currently waiting for a new 42 teeth chain ring to install on my BBSHD to replace the factory 46 teeth. Question , can I use my existing 9 speed chain or do I need to buy a e-bike chain ? Looking forward to hear from you. Kind Regards.
Hi Marc, you can still use the same chain if it’s not worn out (I suggest buying a chain checker to know when to replace the chain). You might have to shorten the chain a little bit because there’s a difference in diameter between 46T and 42T. What I always suggest my customers is to install and a proper e-bike chain, and carry a portable chain breaker and spare missing links. In case the chain snaps, you can do a quick repair and continue your journey.
@@frcr90 Great news because my chain is still brand new and I also have a brand new one still in the box. For sure I'll need to shorten it. Thanks Fellipe your the best !
@@frcr90 I need advice on making sure to get a perfect chain line. Should I adjust the chain in a straight line with my 1st gear or my 5th gear on my 9 speed MTB ? Looking forward to hear from you , Thank you !
@@marccardinal3137 hey Marc, try to make it as straight with the 5th gear as possible (centre of the cassette of gears) that will allow you to use all the range *1st to 9th" without problems. I suggest also installing a chain guide and if you have $$ to invest get a custom chainring not bigger than 46T
@@frcr90 Super Felipe , I'm waiting for a new offset chain ring 42 teeth ( big , small teeth ) to replace factory 46 teeth. Yes, I'll invest in a chain guide also to eliminate the chances of chain popping off. Better be safe than sorry. Thanks for the tip on chain line. Cheers Felipe !
@@Cyberbikesau I enjoy using brake “clutch” shifting and also like using shift sensor. We use the bikes basically in xc mtb. To be less agressive in steep climb starts and gear shifting, we modify controllers programming in a way to release initial current very smoothly. I could do it without the shif sensor. But some people just find it not easy to shift with the brake “clutch”. Maybe they would feel better with a torque sensor mid drive.
Just put a gear sensor on your bike and you eliminate the need for all these unneeded steps. I also always start on pedal assist so much of the torque to the drive train is coming from my legs.
The fact is, the gear sensor can cause more damage than it was supposed to prevent, and we explained why in the video. About starting with pedal assist, it doesn’t really matter, you can start full throttle at maximum power if you’re on the correct gear (1st gear). The gears are what matters, starting on PAS but on the last gear of the cassette will cause as much damage as starting with the throttle in the same gear.
@@Cyberbikesau my comments are predicated on the premise that the cyclist knows how to ride a geared bike. If the cyclist doesn’t know how to ride a multi-geared bike the cycle is more prone to damage regardless whether it is equipped with a gear sensor or not. I have 1,500 miles on my eight speed, mid-drive EBike and I know for a fact the gear sensor on my bike reduces the strain on my drive train. Everyone is entitled to their opinion, and mine is a mid-drive EBike with a gear sensor is the way to go. Learn how to ride a multi geared bike BEFORE you ride a multi geared EBike. UA-cam creator “Johnny Nerd Out” has vast experience converting mid-drive Ebikes and he shares my opinion.
@@mmeyers111 Sir, I am grateful to have your comments and opinions shared here, please don't feel like I am trying to prevent you from sharing your experience, you're welcome on this channel. What I have to share is my experience as a shop owner and mechanical engineer with 5 years of experience in this industry. Your predicated premises apply to 10-15% of the customers that come to our shop, the vast majority of people don't know how to ride a bike or haven't ridden one for a long time. It's our duty (as a business and individuals) to guide inexperienced riders (the vast majority) to use their ebikes safely and without causing damage to the ebike components. The question that I leave here is, will you maintain the same opinion you have now (1500 miles) when your ebike reaches 15,000 miles? We deal with 10-15-20 thousand miles motors daily. The bike I ride daily is clocking 12,000 miles now! The idea behind that video is to give an option for those who want to extract more performance out of their bikes, by choosing if they want to stop the motor and when they will stop the motor while gear shifting. Thanks for Sharing your mate's channel, I highly appreciate it, I will check it out! Keep watching our videos and we see your comments in the next one, cheers!
@@mmeyers111 Thank God their is somebody else out there even if it was eight months ago that shares my same thoughts on the matter. Your spot on with regards to using your gears exactly like you would on say something like an analogue road bike. As for the effectiveness of the gear shifter, l'll side with the astute Jonnynerdout, in saying at all speeds up to 50 kph uphill, downhill or on the flat that l've riden on, it's reliably and quickly cut out the motor when changing gears with just an easing up in peddling speed necessary. Like hell l've even been braking without a brake sensor for 1000s of kilometres without putting much thought into it. I just stop peddling and apply the brakes. Most of the time at a leisurely pace, so no issues so far with motor or components damage.
@@SmokeySkies NP 😉 I've just upgraded my bike to an electric, so that's why I'm here and going through the comments to get other people's feedback as well.
@@SmokeySkies Yeah I got a mid-drive, the power settings are either 0 or 100% with the throttle, so I'm flashing the motor this weekend, but other than that it's nice. Only downside I read about the mid-drive is you need to keep an eye on the attachment screws as after a while they can come loose due to the torque of the motor, but that's fine as with a hub the wheels spokes have to handle that, and I've seen some horrors with it stripping the spokes on a wheel before and that was the deciding factor to choose a hub one for me.
I tend to forget that many, if not all, people know adays have no clue about shifting whatsoever. For those growing up on motorbike and manual shifted cars and trucks, it all makes perfect sense. But to those who only used automatics, its like learning all over again. These types of videos are an absolute must for the newcomer to mid-drive e-bikes....
So cool that you enjoyed our video, please share it with your peers and e-bike groups, all the best mate!
Can't agree more concerning the inertia of the chainring, that's the absolute best moment to shift gears from your cassette!
You're absolutely right! Thanks for sharing your opinion with us! Cheers from Cyberbikes
But won't you have to do the shift really quick after releasing the slight-brake?
Going to try it without the gear sensor following your video, as always you guys excel, thanks for all your videos, they are the best... Andrew
Subscribed! Great video. Going to kill my shift sensor on my Lectric XPremium now. Thought about it before as I have been riding multigear bikes all my life and HATE that motor cutout when shifting. Glad I found you!
Update: I just went out and pulled the cover off my mid drive motor (left side) and followed the wire from the gear sensor to under the cover. It was as easy as unplugging that one wire and putting that cover back on! Can't believe I didnt do it sooner! When the bike was newer I was afraid to take things apart and only was looking at the sensor itself. I thought about cutting the wire since I couldn't find where to unplug it. Glad I didnt. Simple unplug under the plastic cover. So much better!
I’m glad I found and subbed to this guy’s channel… he provides great common sense advice and information. Fortunately, we live in a time where we can purchase almost anything. Unfortunately, many people have no idea how to use and properly maintain these items. Then they get frustrated when they don’t perform as expected. Take care.
Exactly
I love the simplicity of this, completely eliminates the need for a gear sensor (which can often be laggy/unresponsive)
Exactly Jay, the gear sensors can also even cause more damage like Felipe explained in the video
Exactly I don't use a gear sensor, I use the throttle like a clutch.
@Cyberbikesau so as long I have the brake sensor it would be fine?
Felipe. You are a real teacher. Thanks!
Many Thanks!
This guy got me to leave my front derailer on AND I didn’t have to put on gear sensor ! I love the clutch idea
Thanks glad you liked our videos!
Thank you for your informative video. Ever since I first learned how to ride a 10 speed bike I was always taught to pedal while I change gears. Hitting the break to change Gears seems counterintuitive. I have brake sensors and a gear sensor. They both work amazing. The key for me is if I am ascending a hill, I stay in first gear the whole time. I don’t change gears. I may increase my pedal assist, but by staying in first gear, my motor is happy all the way up the hill.
youre not pressing the brakes you're pressing a clutch that is built into the brake lever, you have to learn how to ride a new sort of bike, it's an ebike not a standard 10 speed bicycle anymore.
The gear sensor has a purpose, but you lose all performance of the kit, imagine you could climb that hill shifting gears up and accelerating like the tasmanian devil on the trails ehhehehe each person is different, glad you know how to use your ebike now cheers
@@Cyberbikesau although power shifting wears the chain and sprockets more. I think if you are slowing down that much using the shift sensor, you probably weren't ready for the next gear up.
Absolutely excellent information you're sharing on this channel. I haven't heard anyone mention this info. Thanks so much for taking the time. I wish you were my local shop.
Hey man, thanks for making my day happier, I wish too you were our local customer! Please like and share our videos, we will bring more relevant content to you, Cyberbiker!
Good thinking, I'll give this a go a my gear changes are so clunky through multiple gears when it's assist mode, I don't want the gear change cable connected so this should help.
Thank you so much didn't know letting off the throttle before shifting up. This is my first conversion e-bike as a noob. I do have brake shut offs & gear sensor learning how to kill power while down shifting.
Let’s make it 100 comments. You answered my question. Could not figure why this happens on 2 of my gears. Inertia!! My gear change was not complete before power came back on. Subscribed
Yeah you got it! Thanks for subscribing!!!
Yeah!
Another very useful 🎥. I've ridden mountain bikes for years and gear shifting has become automatic. I don't like the gear sensor either. Thanks for mentioning it! No one else has! Aloha
Totally agree, see you next video James
I've just made myself an e bike with the bafang motor I wish I'd watched this vid before I started hammering the beast. I'm sussing it out myself now, there's a real art to the smooth riding of these things, should probably have driving lessons on them, especially with the power assist on full whack!
Add the brake sensor to your bike, it will help a lot when using pedal assist and shifting gears
@@Cyberbikesau I have mate, it needs gluing on properly like, Ive been dabbing it on the way in to work this morning, using it like a clutch. The back brakes a bit soft as well so it doesn't actually brake until it's fully pulled so that's working great
Ahahha nice mate, keep up the good work! We might record a video on how to install the brake sensors to help anyone looking for some insights. Stay tuned for more and thanks for subscribing to our channel
U are a master man🤙🏽
cheers
Hi Felipe. I greatly appreciate your insights and all the time you devote to helping others understand this amazing invention of putting electric motors on their bikes. I absolutely love mine. I wanted to weigh in and share my two cents about the brake sensor amid mountain biking applications. It came with my purchase but I chose not to install it and I’m glad I did not. I find there are many times, such as ascending switchbacks, where I am breaking against the assist. Or, I pull the brake levers in just where they are about to touch the pads to set myself up in case I have to break against the assist. If the motor cut out I would lose all my momentum and not make the switchback. Even on the lowest assist level the amount of propulsion can be more than I want on twisty narrow climbs (or switchbacks) so I need to slow it down but cannot afford to lose that assist. Anyway, my two cents. Take care, and all the best to you.
Hey Max, I agree with you but it also depends on the controller settings you have on your bike. You mentioned in another comment before that you burnt the brand new motor controller after trying new programming settings 7 times, so I guess you're running your controller stock now.
You could add instant torque (as its and off-road beast) and leave a very low delay to cut off the PAS, and a quicker PAS activation. That would solve the switchbacks and would allow a kill switch on the brake lever because you never know what could go wrong. It could be a tree branch or your finger.
To summarise, each rider has their own settings that will best suit their application. And thanks for sharing your thoughts.
Thank you for a great video👍 i wish you were our shop guy👍best success
So nice of you
I'm glad I found this. I have a Bafang mid drive and I've just ripped the teeth off the cassette after about 150 miles. I have hydraulic brakes and the magnets don't fit into them so they are absolutely useless. Also the sensor hasn't got a flat surface to glue onto. I got so frustrated with them sticking on or off all the time I have disconnected them. So I now stop pedalling when I make a gear change. I think I'm going to buy some skinnier magnets from Amazon to see if I can get the sensors to work with them. After I have changed the cassette that is! 😤
we will record a video about that, installing mag brake cut-off sensors on hydraulic brakes.
so excellent, thank you
You're very welcome Adam, please support our channel and give us 5 star review! g.page/r/CX0AoVbmxOSwEBM/review
Hello, thanks for the good advice. I had the gear sensor, but I didn't like the drop in power on the slope. Greetings from Switzerland!
Hey thanks for your comment. Do you still ride that bike? Did you remove the gear sensor?
With my bike before the mid-drive I normally took off in the middle of the cassette. The lower gears were for hills. So I still do it this way after the install. But I do have a 36” chainring. Maybe that’s why. My lowest gear I can only pedal to about 6 km/h. It’s too low of a gear to take off with
Great advice mate! Loving your channel ☺️
Glad you enjoy it Anthony! See you in the next video
Or an emergency hard stop in high gear. Get going again by using the clutch and shifting down manually from a full stop.
Great video, simple and informative stuff. cheers
Thanks Steve, see you in the next video
HOw about avoiding shifting gears when you are going uphill, starting in a low enough gear at the hill & be content with the speed?
Shifting becomes very easy (with or without a gear sensor) if you gently pedal while shifting, just enough to keep the chain moving. I tend to pedal during the entire process of going through the gears, it's the best way to get to 5th or 6th quickly and cleanly.
Chris we agree with you, however it’s depends on how skilled the rider is, what sort of motor the bike has and what type of settings are in its controller. Can you tell us what motor and settings your using?
@@Cyberbikesau I'm running a Cyclone 3K at 80%.
@@ChrisB... is it throttle only?
@@Cyberbikesau Yep, with a high quality Domino throttle.
@@ChrisB... that’s why you can easily shift gears when pedalling. If there was a pedal assist sensor triggering the motor when you’re pedalling the gear shifting would be completely messed up. Throttle only is the best for gear shifting because you can stop throttling, shift the gears (pedalling or using the inertia of the chainring) then throttle again. Also, with throttle only setups not often needs a brake sensor
Thanks for the great video. I bought a bike with a shift sensor but no break sensor. How can I shift up and down safely?
Great advice… Thanks
Thanks
Thank you for that video. It's so helpfull. Just an opinion, I think you have the same problem you describe wile climbing a hill by using gear sensor or cutting the power with the brake. The motor stalls in both cases because both cases are the same. You are cutting the motor and start it again from zero, forcing it, once shifted to the bigger pinion. Greatings from Madrid!
The biggest difference is. Who said that you need to cut the power with the brake sensor? You can shift gears on a split second, quick no throttling time, and you continue gaining speed while climbing. With the gear sensor installed you have no choice other than cutting off the power, loosing momentum, and damaging your motor due to higher gear at lower speeds
@@Cyberbikesau Ok. So if I understand, to select bigger pinions (to go up in the cassette), you dont need to cut the motor, only to go down in the cassette. Am I right? you take advantage of the inertia in both cases for shifting, I supose... I've already electrify my double suspension's Top Fuel 8 Trek and when I tested it for the first time, I felt the chain and cassette very forced in both upper and lower directions. I don't have gear sensor and I have to replace the front hidraulic brake with the Bafangs one, to be able to cut the motor when shifting. Thank you for your answer and tips!
Great information my friend.Subscribed.
Thank you my friend Sonny, more great content is being recorded. Stay tuned!
Thank you Sonny
Thank you, very informative video and got me thinking twice about the gear sensor should I decide to get the Bafang motor. Could I just ask - so if I'm just using the pedal assist (without the throttle), shifting gears would be done the same way as with a normal bike, i.e. the gear sensor would not be useful as well? Sorry I am a newbie to electric bikes so am still learning. Thanks
when using PAS is when you will struggle the most to shift gears because the motor will be pulling the chain with lots of power and the chain is snap and cassette will get damaged. In case of riding only with PAS you have to get brake sensors and maybe a shift sensor. If you decide to go throttle only you need only the throttle =) and a brake sensor on one of the lever is enough (riding for performance)
Great video and great channel - How are you less than 1k subs? - come on youtube catchup! Good luck and keep posting great content!
Love you positivity, thank you very much, welcome to Cyberbikes!
I'm getting close to order and build my e-bike Felipe and I'm so exited. Watch a lot of good videos like yours . I notice you have a chain guide on your bike I'm I correct ? I was thinking about a lekkie bling ring to hold the chain better in place but holy snozzels they are expensive. Would a chain guide do the trick ? I look forward to hearing from you. Thanks
Hey Marc, thanks for your comment. Yeah, I am sure you gonna fall in love with your ebike. About the chain guide and bling ring, what really matters are two things: 1. The chain line. Is the chain line too crossed when your ebike is on first gear? If yes, you have to add a chain guide because only the bling ring won't hold the chain in place. 2. Is your ebike full suspension, I mean, the rear of the bike will swing up and down? If that's the case you have to have a bling ring because the teeth are higher and will prevent the chain from slipping on top of the chainring. Cheers, thanks for your comment. (Felipe)
Great tips Thank you !
Thanks for your comment Marc
@@frcr90 Thanks, Felipe
Basically do everything you would normally do when your on a motorcycle 😄
He sido antes motociclista de moto de trail que ciclista, así que en mi primera bicicleta con marchas dejaba de pedalear para cambiar de marcha al igual que dejaba de acelerar para cambiar de marcha en la moto y con la ebike que he construido dejo de acelerar para cambiar de marcha también, en este caso al no tener embrague confío en la inercia del plato para que termine de engranar la marcha, no tiene la suavidad del uso del embrague en mi moto, pero tampoco se maneja tanta potencia y creo que conservará la cadena y cassette mejor.
Si si gracias amigo
Before I got a gear sensor, I used the brake sensor as a clutch.
Could you or do you have a video explaining and showing how to fix gears skipping on bafang system?
Thank you for your reply.
thanks for suggesting we wrote it in the list of videos to make
I saw hardly any inertia moving the chain after you released the slight-brake. So should you not be pedaling when you move the gear shift lever? The wheel kept spinning of course, but the chain stopped rather quickly, too quick to be moving when you moved the shift lever? or was the little residual movement enough?
All this time, I have been taking off on 6th gear, however whenever I take off, i roll the bike forward with my foot and then I apply the throttle veryy slowly and gently to slowly accelerate, then when I have picked up some speed I start pedalling to avoid strain on drivetrain
Ali I would not recommend doing that to anyone, and for prolonged periods you will cause internal damages to the motor/controller or drivetrain of your bike. What you’re doing is the same then engaging 3rd gear on a manual car and opening the door and pushing the car then jumping back in and throttling slowly till you get some speed.
The gears of your bike are there so be wise and use them!
@@frcr90 I followed your advice, and now the gear shifting technique has become so easy and natural for me, I am so glad I found this video before it was too late, I only recently just converted my bike to the bafang mid drive, so I was still learning, thank you very much Felipe for the help.
Ohh yeah Felipe, spot on!
Felipe is our Cyberbikes CEO, please follow his advice, he's right about that! Cheers thanks for your comment!
On my eTrike, the 4th gear seems low enough for an easy startup. & I think the chain is in more of a straight line that in first gear. So you think that is somehow bad so long as it is easy to pedal at start that way? So what is the problem to start in 4th gear with no pedal assist when it is easy to do?
i have a Bafang M620 on my new ebike. Last week i had problem with freehub pawls being stuck so i was ghost pedaling it was like i had no chain .I got it fixed. From the beginning when i am going 30+kph in max pas 5 and gear 8 when i use throttle to go max speed while accelerating i get knocking sound like(tok) i guess its the motor chain doing this .Is this mechanical problem .? it what way can i operate this motor without knocking ? Thank you
Hi, thanks for your comment. The motor should always produce a smooth sound. That tok tok could be the disc brakes rubbing on the calliper or your have a frozen link on the chain, it could also be that the gears are out of tune or for example if you’re not used to shifting gears, you could have damaged the teeth of the cassette of gears and the chain is now slipping on top of them. Take the bike to a bike mechanic to have a look, I gave you a few options to what look for. Cheers
Very good video.
Thank you very much!
great video. For anyone who has ridden a motorbike this should feel completely natural. You should be rolling off the throttle as you clutch and shift. This is the same!
Just dont have the power on your chain when you shift.
Yes, exactly that Steve!
I thought the gear sensor did the same as using the brake, that's why they can connect to the brake sensor cable.
On a Mission, thanks for your comment. The brake sensor gives you the choice of when to kill the motor while shifting gears, not in all conditions (climbing steep hills, riding on a trail or racing) you want the motor to stop powering the bike while you shift gears. Also, there are two types of gear sensors and they have different delay times. When using a gear sensor, please connect it directly to the controller gear sensor port, not on the brake cables. By doing that, you gonna reduce the delay of the gear shifter. Cheers from Cyberbikes
Hay Brother best bloke out !👋👌👍👍👍👍👍👍 took mine off ! If you know how to ride a motor bike with 6 gears you can easily ride without a sensor !
Hey Oly my friend how are you doing? Yes you're right mate! Thanks for your comment see you around Bondi!
Which sensor are you referring to? You maybe able to do without the gear sensor but l can do without the brake sensor and never had any issues. But unless you only use the throttle all the time it's a difficult job riding without any sensor and not do any damage to motor and components.
may i know which brand battery are used in this melinda 140 and the voltage and watt thanks
Wish I would have found your video. Now my Bafang motor just clangs along and loses power over and over again
I very rarely use the throttle, and from the beginning, I've been changing gears by lightly squeezing the brake, activating the brake sensor, shifting, pedaling, then releasing the brake. There's a 1 second delay built into the software after the brake sensor is released where the motor remains off. This is more than enough for the gear change to complete before the motor starts running again. So from my understanding, I'm doing pretty much the same as your demonstration, except I'm using the cadence sensor instead of the throttle.
I've been thinking of wiring both brake sensors to the same input on the 1-to-4 cable, then using the second input to connect a handlebar button that would basically act as a clutch. That way I'd be pressing a separate button whenever I want the motor killed instead of using the brake levers as some sort of hybrid clutch/brake.
What I'm wondering is what's the wrong way of doing this? Are there people out there shifting without killing the motor first?
Nice, you're doing it right. There’s a second video I recorded going deeper into this explanation because even though one is shifting gears and not using the throttle, they still could be damaging the motor because of the chainring size, low pedalling cadence, a small cassette of gears, big wheel diameter, heavy rider/loaded bike, and so on...
ua-cam.com/video/jb3v5Y0Q2l0/v-deo.html
If you like the explanation and want to help our channel, please give us a 5 star review on Google g.page/r/CX0AoVbmxOSwEBM/review
My bike already has a shift sensor that cuts power to the motor when shifting….. so I just make sure I ease up on pedaling & throttle during the shift…
Seems to work well for me..
Yep, that should work well for your application, and if you race against a bike that has no gear sensor probably you will be left behind, so let's say that for maximum performance and trails I (Felipe) would not go with a gear sensor, for other applications like yours the gear sensor suits well because you're aware on how to use it properly.
Yep that's right Joe just don't stop peddling completely as you need the drivetrain engaged for the derailleur to do its job properly in changing gears otherwise you get that awful crunching noise happening. When braking you should stop peddling at the same time though, to once again disengage the motor.
Cool… thnx guys…pretty sure the manufacturer of my bike uses a shift sensor so they wont get a lot of warranty problems when dealing with “dummies”, hahaha😂👍🏻
Thnx for the advice!..
i have 750w BBS02 and using generally 1 or 2 PAS over 5. gear mostly hıgh 6-7-8-9/9 motor power avarage 500w, is it can be harmful? i think if motor consume like around1000w can be harmful for motor i always consider about how much power consuming now
The more watts you put in the motor the more you damage the motor, however, even at 500W, if you're using a heavy gear (9) at very low speeds, you're damaging the motor. Because of your doubt I am going to record a video talking about that.
The more watts you put in the motor the more you damage the motor, however, even at 500W, if you're using a heavy gear (9) at very low speeds, you're damaging the motor. Because of your doubt I am going to record a video talking about that.
@@Cyberbikesau i didnt know that, high gears most of time force the motor. thank you
Will I get the brake sensor lever as standard with most BBSHD kits? Im building a slow, very low geared, granny trike project to pull a large four wheeled trailer. Permanent ride along mode sort of thing.
The brake levers for mechanical disc brakes are included in the kit, that's the standard. Some companies also include the sensors for hydraulic brakes but it varies and I cannot confirm your order includes those sensors. Better check with who you ordered your kit with. Thanks for your comment, Cheers.
@@frcr90 Thanks Felipe for your comment
For climbing a hill, would the best method be to shift to the appropriate gear before the incline and maintain that gear?
Yes, that's an option if you want to preserve the motor, better to start in a low gear (high torque) and maintain it all the way up.
If you're racing, you could shift gears up without using the brake sensor and add human power to the pedals. Remember, it's best to make these motors spin fast than spin slow.
So, my Bafang 02 is on order. I am excited! If the bike has hydraulic brakes would you recommend changing to mechanical or using the gear sensor instead? And, how do the complete e-bike manufacturers who ship the bikes with disc brakes get around the problem? You have an excellent channel and I have learned so much. Gracias. 🙏
Hi Max, thanks for your comment. Keep the hydraulic brakes, because they will stop your ebike quicker than mechanical brakes. I suggest installing at least one brake sensor in one of the brake levers (would suggest on the left-hand lever if that's also your rear brake). The gear sensor doesn't stop the motor unless you're shifting gears, so don't make confusion between the gear sensor and brake sensor, they are different things, however, the brake sensor can do exactly what the gear sensor does but not the other way around. I (Felipe) particularly don't like gear sensors, their delay to activate the motor might cause more damage than they are supposed to prevent.
@@Cyberbikesau Thanks so much, Felipe. I appreciate it! This will be used exclusively for mountain biking and encountering many pitches and inclines where I will want to get down to the lowest gear. So, I believe the technique you use is engaging the brake lever just enough where it doesn’t actually apply the brakes but the magnetic sensor cuts the power to the motor and holding the lever in that position until I get shifted all the way down to the lowest gear? Is that correct? I doubt I will hardly ever use the throttle except for a hike -a-bike sections. And, conversely when beginning downhills shifting wouldn’t be an issue at all as you wouldn’t need to cut any power to the motor? Thanks again. 👍
@@peacelovegoldenrule Yes, that’s correct, Max. About the throttle, we have set a standard here at Cyberbikes where we install the thumb throttle on the left-hand side, so your right-hand shifts the gears and press the brake, and the left-hand throttles and presses the brakes, kind of 2 functionalities to each hand, and I bet you are going to use the throttle more than you think! Going downhill will depend on the speed you’re at because if you’re standing still and then start rolling down, the motor accelerates faster than the bike so that it could mess up the gears. With a bit of practice, you will
Get the hang of it.
Answering the other question you asked after the edit: bike manufacturers install brake levers with an inbuilt brake sensor. Those brakes are way more reliable than the brake sensors we install. However, you have to find the balance between costs/benefits/reliability/availability. If you find one brake you like with an integrated lever, go for it
@@frcr90 Thanks so much for taking the time Felipe. I appreciate it very much. My every good wish to you.
@@peacelovegoldenrule Thanks Max, all the best to you too. (PS: Keep playing the guitar you rock!)
How are you supposed to shift to a higher gear, while engaging the motor, on a bike with no gear sensor?
Alex this is what this video is all about. There are two ways: 1. Using a brake cut-off to stop the motor and shift the gears ; 2. Reving the motor to its maximum speed then letting off the throttle and using the inertia that's still on the motor to shift the chain to a higher gear. Please watch the video till the end. I will mention why I don't recommend gear sensors. Cheers, Felipe from Cyberbikes
@@Cyberbikesau i come to a steep hill. I brake, i shift gear.
Now,
Do i have to start to pedal BEFORE i release the brake?
@@alexsainsbury2176 On a steep hill, I would not use the brake sensor. I would keep the motor at high revs and pass the entire hill without shifting gear up. As you said, it's a steep hill! However, if you want to gain speed while climbing, use the motor's inertia don't use the brake sensor.
Yes sorry about all the confusion Alex, as it's not exactly rocket science as some would make it out to be. Just buy a high wattage / high torque output mid drive ebike. Stick it in a low gear then forget about the gears and either use throttle or the peddle assistance modes or both to cruise up not at snails pace nor at a break a land speed record pace and you will do just fine without any physical exertion or burnt out motors to worry obout.
Good news for the brake sensor fan club. Bafung have just released onto the market an E - Stop brake button, specifically designed like their gear sensor to cut power to the motor when changing gears or for any other urgent cutting out of motor power in an emergency. So hands off that lever and get used to a now genuine clutch like button.
a kill switch button has been in the market for a long time, much needed for safety but not better for shifting. We will stick with our Cybershifting till something else better comes along, cheers.
Do they make a Shimano 8 speed derailleur with clutch it seems this might help with my chain knocking issue according to my bike mechanic since derailleur would be stiffer
Yes, that might help especially if you ride a full suspension. You can try to shorten the chain with a quick link to see if that helps. I am not aware of a 8s derailleur with clutch but if you find any please post here in the comments. Cheers thanks for your contribution
@@frcr90No rear suspension on my Fatbike I tried removing 3 links but i still get same knocking issue when i am in top gear. Will post if i find a 8 speed derailleur .Thanks again .
Talked to the company that sold me the bike they say it was normal to have problems in top gear with gear skipping since motor is very powerful ,rightttt..... if the wrong parts are on it for sure . Nowwww they offer to upgrade the derailleur to a BOX 8 speed clutch derailleur and shifter they say it will solve the issue but i still have to pay for it even if i think it's a flaw selling a bike with poor or inadequate parts .Anyways will see how that goes
Company that sells my bike has a 8 speed replacement BOX clutch derailleur and shifter kit for me but it's not free so basically they sell a flawed bike and sells what they say is an "UPGRADED" derailleur lol .
@@frcr90 Yes i found a clutch derailleur for my Bafang M620 it is a BOX 4 -8speed derailleur and shifter Shimano shifter does not work with BOX derailleur . So now with new derailleur and shifter works perfectly .No more knocking or slipping in 7th or 8th gear
Hi Felipe ,tomorrow I'm ordering my 1000 w bafang mid- drive motor kit. Can you suggest a controller there's many as optional and I don't know which one to take. In case it's relevant to you my battery will be 48 volts. Looking forward to hear from you ! Cheers.
The Bafang BBSHD 1000W already comes with a motor controller, if you're talking about the LCD display, we suggest the DPC18 model. Cheers Marc
Felipe είσαι πολυ μάγκας ευχαριστώ πολύ
Does this also apply when in peddle assist mode?
Yes, use the brake sensor on the brake lever to stop the motor, please watch the video again. Cheers
Like honestly shifting gears for maintenance purposes on an ebike especially one with a mid drive motor is no different from shifting gears on a manual transmission car including for slowing, stopping and starting from stationary in first gear. Your gear or brake sensor is your clutch on an ebike. In peddle assist mode this sensor will disengage the motor allowing you to keep on peddling as normal whether shifting up or down gears. Using throttle only mode you don't need a sensor as you just release the throttle then shift gears whilst peddling as Felipe explained. As for shifting up a gear travelling uphill that is a no no. As in a car shift down and select a low gear approaching the hill and stick with that gear until you reach the summit. If more power is needed just go up in peddle assistance mode or use the throttle as you would use the accelerator in a car. Absolutely no dramas climbing up the steepest of hills with ease for a 750 or 1000 watt mid drive motor as their made to give out heaps of torque when choosing a low gear. Just don't try breaking any land speed record as your climbing but nor do you have to travel at snails pace either. If you stick with this principle their is nothing wrong with utilising a gear sensor, as the brake sensor that comes with the bafung mid drive conversion kit only works on mechanical disc brake set ups not on hydraulic disc brakes. I also don't like the thumb throttles on ebikes as their not modulated very good, so jerky and reving up the motor with one means a sudden burst of speed, not ideal for city commuting on busy roads or for off road trails where a smooth transition of speed is required for both conditions. In fact not all ebikes have throttles anyway. Though they are useful from a stationary start considering the extra weight of an ebike .
And not all ebikes have brake sensors either.
You can install aftermarket brake sensors, they work great, and I recommend having them in any ebike. The main difference between motorbikes and cars in comparison to ebikes is that the clutch disengages the motor, and you can select any gear from the gearbox. However, on an ebike, the clutch stops the motor but doesn't disengage the gears, which means you have to sequentially shift gears up and down
I just slightly pause peddling and shift then pedal
Yeah that works as well but there’s too much inertia on the legs to stop it timely. Reving up the motor and letting go the throttle for a fraction of a second then shift is much quicker and precise
Just understand reving up the motor means increasing the amount of throttle which will also give you a sudden burst of speed, so not the most smoothest way to change gears especially if their is somebody close in front of you. You dont want to run up their backside, so just slow down your peddling /cadence then shift up or down and let the motor cut off sensor and derailleur do their jobs.
That's another way of doing it but not efficient as there's too much mass on human legs to sudden stop it, moreover, you will need movement on the chainring to make the chain change sprockets, how will you do that if you're not pedalling?
what wears out first in this system? the levers, chain, derailleur, and cables, I am doing research on the different ebike systems
definitely chains and the cassette, especially if you don't clean and apply lubricant regularly. For me I clean and lube around every 100km of riding. You will get an average of around 4000km (depending on use) if you clean regularly but if you don't, well I had to replace my chain after only 1600km and that was when I use to only apply lube without the cleaning.
as our friend said, chain and cassette
I'm confused. In the scenario of shifting gears mid climb, wouldn't engaging brake lightly to kill power also result in loss of speed and the explosive combination you described as a negative aspect of the gear sensor?
Thanks for your comment David. In the situation of shifting gears mid climbing, I suggest reving the motor to its maximum RPM, release the throttle for a fraction of a second, shift one gear up and then press the throttle again. We would shift the gear just using the inertia of the chainring. For shifting mid climbing I would not stop the motor at all, and would do the gear shifting as fast as possible but not throttling at the same time. That’s something you can’t do when there’s a gear sensor on the cable line.
@@frcr90 I guess I just don't understand because I haven't ridden one of these bikes yet. I'll be building my first one as soon as the battery arrives.
It just seems to me that ON FLAT GROUND whether the motor power is cut by gear shifter or by partially engaging break that it shouldn't make a difference. Cut power is cut power. Unless the gear sensor lags.
On climb, I suspect that process of releasing chain tension and shifting has to be very fast and maybe the gear shifter motor cutoff is too slow. I suspect it doesn't engage until after the shifting process begins. But I understand that you suggest it's better to not have motor cut off for shifting on climb and just not throttle. So I guess the need not to stall out and lose momentum is greater than shifting with no pressure on chain. If I understand you.
I've heard others say the gear sensor is good to have. I'm not sure why if it lags and you can achieve a better effect with slight brake engagement.
@@davidr9876 you have to build and ride your ebike, then find the settings that work best for you. Let me know your opinion once you have built and ridden your ebike for 1000km-5000km-15000km
David if using throttle only you don't need either a gear sensor or a brake sensor as fully releasing the throttle disengages the motor. Better off just choosing a low gear depending on the hills steepness and length as you approach it and sticking with that gear all the way to the top. Just use your throttle and/or pedal assistance modes to adjust your power as you go up. No problems with a high wattage/ high torque output mid drive motor in climbing hills at a reasonable pace in a low gear anyway. Like riding fast on flat ground all the time is going to shorten its life span, so will constantly riding up steep hills shorten the lifetime of any ebike motor and components.
Hi i noticed when i using throttle Power Output Fluctuations. i have bbs02 750W. is it like standard feature for motor protect itself
check brake cut off and battery connectors, not resolving look for your controller and watch our videos about phase wires
Can you do a video on single gear bafang conversion? Like if someone were to convert a BMX 24 or 26?
It's not advantageous to use a bafang motor on a single-speed bike. That's why we recorded this video, to show the importance of using the gears.
@@Cyberbikesau Ok thanks. I heard it's fine but you would want to mess with the gear ratio by using a smaller chainring, like 36T and you won't have as high of top speed. But idk shit I've never even had an ebike, just now trying to figure out what I want my first build to be and I like the lightweight and nimble simplicity of single gear BMX like 24, 26 and 27.5 cruisers.
@@urbandisturbin get a full suspension MTB 26" from the years 2010-2012. The motor will fit like a glove, with heaps of battery space and braking power (how are you gonna stop a BMX going 45km/h, with your feet?) Be wise!
Wow
As far as the gear sensor scenario of going up hill and the sensor killing the motor for you to change gears, wouldn't the brake technique do the same thing? Either way you must kill the engine to switch gears, correct?
have a look in the comments we answered that
You say use the throttle to shift gears, how about using pas, with some inertia, and stop pedalling?
Try to stop pedalling when your pedalling cadence is 60 strokes per minute, you can't, there's so much mass in your legs that you can't stop it quickly. If you pedal slowly and alleviate the force on your legs, you will still be triggering the motor with the rotation of the crank. The method you suggested would only work at low levels of assistance or on a 250W motor.
Also, the PAS settings have to have a low "Time of stop" like 100ms
When using pedal assistance mode 1-5 or 1-9 and at most bike speeds with moderate leg cadence gear sensors work just fine, without a delay in cutting out the motor, like if they didn't work Bafung and other manufacturers would have been forced to withdraw them years ago, instead they've gone on to sell millions of them. You just need to slow down your leg cadence rate that's all as you still need the drive chain turning over for the derailleur to do its job properly in changing gears smoothly , just without all that torque and stressors from the motor.
Would the same technique for shifting apply for internally geared hubs?
No, only for mid-drive motors. For hub motors, the normal gearshifing technique of acoustic non electric bikes is applied.
@@Cyberbikesau Sorry, I meant a mid drive motor combined with an Internally geared hub (Shimano nexus 7)
@@luciddreamer124 rear hub motor with a mid drive motor installed? Why would you do that?
@@Cyberbikesau Not a rear hub motor - an internally geared hub, as opposed to traditional cassette gearing (ex: shimano nexus 7) paired with a mid drive motor
Your of Brazilian nationality, right?
Yes, Felipe was born in Brazil and naturalised Australian last year.
Perde o "mustache" ou o "cascole". Porque, "As iludencias aparudem!".
@@OrlandoPaco Sorry bro but it doesn't make sense for us here. We will ask Felipe to read it to see if there's any meaning in it. Cheers
@@Cyberbikesau I know that accent anywhere!
Did he translate?!
@@OrlandoPaco e ai Orlando aqui é o Felipe, valeu pelo comentario a gnt vai postar mais videos logo em Março com a chegada do nosso e-commerce (cyberbikes.com). Desde que ganhei a cidadania Australiana estou com esse bigode e o cabelo estilo Mullets hehehhe. Nois cara abraço and Ebike All the Way!
Yes, don't connect the gear sensors..
How about a torque sensor mid drive on a tongsheng?
Torque sensor is good and TongShen in 2017-19 was a crap
@@Cyberbikesau how do you rate the 48v 750w motor now by tongsheng?
@@Oceanbluemoss if you can send one to us do a review and we send it back to you that will be highly appreciated
I cannot afford to send a motor to you
@@Oceanbluemoss we can’t afford buying one for a review
Hi Felipe ! I'm currently waiting for a new 42 teeth chain ring to install on my BBSHD to replace the factory 46 teeth. Question , can I use my existing 9 speed chain or do I need to buy a e-bike chain ? Looking forward to hear from you. Kind Regards.
Hi Marc, you can still use the same chain if it’s not worn out (I suggest buying a chain checker to know when to replace the chain). You might have to shorten the chain a little bit because there’s a difference in diameter between 46T and 42T.
What I always suggest my customers is to install and a proper e-bike chain, and carry a portable chain breaker and spare missing links. In case the chain snaps, you can do a quick repair and continue your journey.
@@frcr90 Great news because my chain is still brand new and I also have a brand new one still in the box. For sure I'll need to shorten it. Thanks Fellipe your the best !
@@frcr90 I need advice on making sure to get a perfect chain line. Should I adjust the chain in a straight line with my 1st gear or my 5th gear on my 9 speed MTB ? Looking forward to hear from you , Thank you !
@@marccardinal3137 hey Marc, try to make it as straight with the 5th gear as possible (centre of the cassette of gears) that will allow you to use all the range *1st to 9th" without problems. I suggest also installing a chain guide and if you have $$ to invest get a custom chainring not bigger than 46T
@@frcr90 Super Felipe , I'm waiting for a new offset chain ring 42 teeth ( big , small teeth ) to replace factory 46 teeth. Yes, I'll invest in a chain guide also to eliminate the chances of chain popping off. Better be safe than sorry. Thanks for the tip on chain line. Cheers Felipe !
The explosive combination could happen with or without the shift sensor.
Only if you don't understand how the shift sensor works
@@Cyberbikesau In my bikes (2017 bbs02b) they work the same way the brake sensors do.
@@fabiopedo725 So what's the difference between them? Are they the same? If you say yes, please watch the video again.
@@Cyberbikesau I enjoy using brake “clutch” shifting and also like using shift sensor. We use the bikes basically in xc mtb. To be less agressive in steep climb starts and gear shifting, we modify controllers programming in a way to release initial current very smoothly. I could do it without the shif sensor. But some people just find it not easy to shift with the brake “clutch”. Maybe they would feel better with a torque sensor mid drive.
The best way is to use a clutch button
Just put a gear sensor on your bike and you eliminate the need for all these unneeded steps. I also always start on pedal assist so much of the torque to the drive train is coming from my legs.
The fact is, the gear sensor can cause more damage than it was supposed to prevent, and we explained why in the video. About starting with pedal assist, it doesn’t really matter, you can start full throttle at maximum power if you’re on the correct gear (1st gear). The gears are what matters, starting on PAS but on the last gear of the cassette will cause as much damage as starting with the throttle in the same gear.
@@Cyberbikesau my comments are predicated on the premise that the cyclist knows how to ride a geared bike. If the cyclist doesn’t know how to ride a multi-geared bike the cycle is more prone to damage regardless whether it is equipped with a gear sensor or not. I have 1,500 miles on my eight speed, mid-drive EBike and I know for a fact the gear sensor on my bike reduces the strain on my drive train. Everyone is entitled to their opinion, and mine is a mid-drive EBike with a gear sensor is the way to go. Learn how to ride a multi geared bike BEFORE you ride a multi geared EBike. UA-cam creator “Johnny Nerd Out” has vast experience converting mid-drive Ebikes and he shares my opinion.
@@mmeyers111 Sir, I am grateful to have your comments and opinions shared here, please don't feel like I am trying to prevent you from sharing your experience, you're welcome on this channel. What I have to share is my experience as a shop owner and mechanical engineer with 5 years of experience in this industry. Your predicated premises apply to 10-15% of the customers that come to our shop, the vast majority of people don't know how to ride a bike or haven't ridden one for a long time. It's our duty (as a business and individuals) to guide inexperienced riders (the vast majority) to use their ebikes safely and without causing damage to the ebike components. The question that I leave here is, will you maintain the same opinion you have now (1500 miles) when your ebike reaches 15,000 miles? We deal with 10-15-20 thousand miles motors daily. The bike I ride daily is clocking 12,000 miles now! The idea behind that video is to give an option for those who want to extract more performance out of their bikes, by choosing if they want to stop the motor and when they will stop the motor while gear shifting. Thanks for Sharing your mate's channel, I highly appreciate it, I will check it out! Keep watching our videos and we see your comments in the next one, cheers!
@@Cyberbikesau such a great response. Well put!
@@mmeyers111 Thank God their is somebody else out there even if it was eight months ago that shares my same thoughts on the matter. Your spot on with regards to using your gears exactly like you would on say something like an analogue road bike. As for the effectiveness of the gear shifter, l'll side with the astute Jonnynerdout, in saying at all speeds up to 50 kph uphill, downhill or on the flat that l've riden on, it's reliably and quickly cut out the motor when changing gears with just an easing up in peddling speed necessary. Like hell l've even been braking without a brake sensor for 1000s of kilometres without putting much thought into it. I just stop peddling and apply the brakes. Most of the time at a leisurely pace, so no issues so far with motor or components damage.
😂❤🥹👍
Just buy a shift sensor only cost 20 bucks
Then get smoked on the trails!
This guy reminds me of an actor but can't remember now..
Diego Luna?
@SynthiaAaron-bv3fd I never thought I'd get a response but yes i think your correct
@@SmokeySkies NP 😉
I've just upgraded my bike to an electric, so that's why I'm here and going through the comments to get other people's feedback as well.
@@SynthiaAaron-bv3fd did you get a mid drive ? How is it to a hub drive ? Cause i wanna upgrade from a hub drive to a mid drive
@@SmokeySkies Yeah I got a mid-drive, the power settings are either 0 or 100% with the throttle, so I'm flashing the motor this weekend, but other than that it's nice.
Only downside I read about the mid-drive is you need to keep an eye on the attachment screws as after a while they can come loose due to the torque of the motor, but that's fine as with a hub the wheels spokes have to handle that, and I've seen some horrors with it stripping the spokes on a wheel before and that was the deciding factor to choose a hub one for me.
Or just install a shift sensor
And lose all the performance