Do you have or could you do a video about the various solder wire, flux, all the various soldering tips - the minutia if you will - of soldering that doesn't get talked about very much? I've spent a lot of time learning to solder, bought a Hakko station, refurbed a lot of games, brought some consoles back to life, and done some console mods but its these little things that don't get talked about very much that I'm curious about now. Are there things I could be using that would improve the quality of my work? Maybe a small set of go-to items I could stick in a toolbox that would be good items to have in a "console repair kit." I don't run a business, I just want to take care of my stuff. I think also a couple of videos on analog electronics... "electrical information" would be interesting too. Maybe explaining resistors, capacitors, how and why they do what they do, choosing them for projects, etc. I'm obviously not knowledgeable about all of this, so forgive me if these are dumb things to ask about. I get what they do, but why a particular spec of a component may be used in each instance would be helpful? I know that this stuff probably exists out there, and I would gladly look at them if you have some recommendations, but I really enjoy your concise style of presentation. Plus dat sexy voice boi.
I'd also really appreciate a video like this. I am looking at the soldering station you recommended in your last vid, and it comes with the tip you used here. The seller also has many other tips for sale individually, and knowing what each is used for and what might be useful to me would really help. Also any hints on what to do with a new iron to not fuck it up would be great. Proper procedure to make sure the tip will always accept solder, etc. I've used cheap irons before that have had solder run off them, which I'm ure was due to my error. @@Voultar
I would love this as well. I want to know some good solder and no-clean, as I want to upgrade to some that flows better and I want to get away from rosin.
@@Voultar Just watching this video has drastically changed how I approach soldering. I'm very new to doing modwork on consoles and carts and I would love to see a video like that from you too!
This video helped me repair a game I haven't been able to play in goddamn years: Game & Watch Gallery 2. It was one of my favourites growing up, but one day my scores were gone and the cartridge had a rattling sound. Years later I found the game and replaced the battery, but then it wouldn't play properly. The palettes were wrong, and the game froze when trying to play any games. Then I tried the technique shown in the video. Now it works perfectly again! Thank you so much for your wisdom!
Every time after I watch one of your videos and see you zoom in when you work I think everything is very big, but when I go and work on some mods I am amazed at how small these things are. And realize the amount of effort you put into your videos and work. thank you so much for your hard work.
Cam here for the GB game thumbnail, subscribed for one of the cleanest and chilling soldering techniques ever. Seriously that was immaculate, soldering IS NOT that easy. Watching this was like watching Bob Ross with the soldering.
Great job, as always! Although I personally prefer to wick up all old solder from the pads with solder braid before soldering new components. Makes it easier to position the components and removes an unknown variable (old solder and its properties) from the equation.
This is true, I'm between a rock & a hard place in that respect at the moment as I have only a needle-point tip for my 907c iron & a knife edge on a 40W thing I use more for automotive wiring. Need to get me some chisel and knife tips soon.
I have an antex 120w with the 2.4mm df tip and works wonders for large contacts like this. Melts in seconds. A good iron can make all the difference as i used to have a $9 piece of garbage that couldnt melt anything.
Remarkably, I just pulled out my old gameboys from a box while looking for a liquid cpu cooler and decided to give them a go on Thrusday, the day you uploaded your video, only to find one of my old Pokemon games with the same symptoms as yours did. Thank you for showing this content, as I will be using it in the near future to restore my game back to working status.
While you have the cases open, might be a good idea to clean the connector pins. Most of the time 99% isopropyl alcohol works fine. It's what pretty much every cleaning kit came with, and what the 1UPcard comes with. I've never had to use it, but for really tough cases youtuber John Riggs uses either Brasso or Brite Boy metal polish. He's got a whole Open Cart Surgery series, so it must work for him...
I've done this a lot. In more detail: Step 1: rubbing alcohol (99% pure is preferred) + q-tip. This is nice because you don't even need to open the case. Step 2: Eraser. Open the case, rub the contacts with an eraser. (If at all possible, use an eraser that's not actually in a pencil, as you don't want to scratch the contacts with the eraser holder.) Step 3: Brasso. (This might damage the contacts slightly, so this is only for carts that still have visible issues with the contacts after the first 2 steps have been repeated a few times. 99% of non-booting carts just need the first 2 steps.) Rub brasso on the contacts. Make sure to clean it off afterwards. (Distilled water, then dry it off.) Step 4 is the stuff from this video.
Do I need to put more warnings on it? Look, Brasso isn't great, but I don't have a better solution for when there's obvious problems with the contacts, and an eraser isn't helping. Rest assured that I only use it when the alternative is to consider the cartridge unrecoverable.
I have to admit, I am super interested in dumping the memory on a gameboy cartridge before it goes sour. Your channel has really helped reignite an interest I had in electronics repair in my late teens, thanks for making great content dude.
I love watching soldering almost as much as I love soldering... Cleaning the cartridge contacts is a good idea when you've already got the thing open. No need to get fancy on a game that's already working, just a q-tip and some isopropyl.
This was an eye opener. The reflow trick is brilliant. I've already done it to two games that weren't really working reliably, even after replacing the dead battery. Thanks!
I'd love to see your overall set up. You seem to have a pretty organized area for the most part, so I think it'd be cool to see your work area. What kind if mat you use, how you have things stored, etc. Just an idea.
Hey Voultar! I've recently finished my first ever PS2 modchip install using some of the tricks you showed in your PS2 modding video. I've had a lot of difficulty with the solder points being so small and close together, so in the end the wire work did not turn out to be as good as yours, but it was still decent enough. Anyways, thanks for making these videos!
Hey man, just wanted to thank you for making this video, took the same steps you showed us and was able to bring my pokemon yellow version cart i just purchased back to life. This was definitely a big help compared to all other videos I've watched, I was so lost. Thank you for making it so simple.
Have you ever looked into replacing the SRAM chips with non-volatile FRAM? IIRC it doesn't work very well on games with an RTC, but non-RTC games work flawlessly with the mod. The chips used are a drop-in replacement, same pinout and everything, and it also works with first-party N64 memory paks.
@@ZiggyTheHamster Voultar shows that there's not a clearance issue with a couple of games, but I still use 2025s just to be safe because I don't want to run into that one game that won't close. Don't plan on changing the battery again within the next 10 years anyway...
Dude, this is your first video I had the pleasure of watching, and I gotta say, that was tremendously zen. You're a bit like a Bob Ross of soldering. Keep it up!
Thank you so much for the wonderful video!! Finally, a solder video that's easy for beginner me to follow :) Hopefully I can revive my broken FireRed game!
You have a solder ball on the insulation wrap of the battery in your Pokemon red. With enough force that could dislodge and start bouncing around in the cartridge. Just looking out for your childhood cartridge.
Amtech Flux, now available at store.rossmanngroup.com , that's store.rossmanngroup.com! Don't delay, buy today!™ (I couldn't resist making a Louis Rossmann reference. In all honesty he swears by the stuff and claims it's the best flux ever.)
I find it interesting that it looks like some later print run copies of Red, Blue, and maybe Yellow seem to use the same PCB as Gold and Silver. Or at least Voultar's copy of Red seems to use the same board as Gold and Silver, just ofc MBC5 instead of MBC3, and no clock crystal.
Bought an English Blue version that was waterlogged. Tried to jump wires on the board, but ended up sacrificing a Japanese Gold version and swapped ROM chips. Flux really is a savior lol thanks for putting up guides like these, they're really entertaining to watch!
I would've in most cases, but I already had an English Gold. Didn't feel too bad repurposing a game with a language barrier (and incompatibility to English versions) to a game I could play. Of course, no one should ever kill off a game if it works, I still kept the rom chip incase I come across other boards (or hopefully, replacement GameBoy boards)
I've known that one of the major things that happen to these is the disconnecting of the chips and reflowing them fixes the problem but I never knew why. Thats awesome. One suggestion though would be to clean the game thoroughly first: 1. Clean the main connecting pins that join into cartridge slot with a pencil eraser or isopropyl alcohol on a cotton swab. 2. Clean the pins surface mounted to the board from each chip with alcohol and cotton swab( particularly the rom and ram chips ) 3. Clean all the traces especially if it looks like they have any corrosion or oxidization Generally the corrupted looking Nintendo logo can be solved by the above three steps. If that fails then you start thinking about reflowing the chips. You shouldn't reflow the chips unless you really have to since it carries a risk of overheating and destroying the chip or shorting some of the pins if you're not careful
I always wondered why my copy of Silver would randomly corrupt my saves. At the time, I didn't know about the battery 🤣. Now, if I can find it, I can fix it.
Yo I just fixed my copy of Legend of Zelda: Oracle of Seasons that has been dead for over 12 years today thanks to this vid! It was indeed a lifted pin on the rom chip
I fixed a non-booting copy of Pokemon Yellow with this info. Thanks Voultar! BTW, can you do a video explaining how to dump and reload the SRAM for different cartridges? Not necessarily just Gameboy, just in general.
Even though I use the knife method, this is a better version of soldering batteries because the CR2032 ones, I used them on my Pokémon Gold, Silver & Crystal as well as Oracle of Ages and Seasons despite the latter having working batteries before but still.
Wow. nice video. Iv been just cleaning the contacts with mr clean magic eraser. I later got those one up cards. Now i found out it's made solder joints.
If you have a cartridge that needs a new battery but still works and has precious saves on it, get a smaller third battery and temporarily solder it to the areas of the board that the old battery connects to until you are done replacing the main battery. This should keep the cartridge clock running and game files in memory safe
I think that'll work; also you can have it turned on in the Gameboy while you solder a new one in; that way is probably more risky though; with burning the Gameboy or accidently turning it off.
A button battery holder is another option when replacing the batteries in these cartridges, makes battery replacement painless in the future. The trade-off being that you're stuck with the smaller CR1616's in the original GB cartridges.
I am seriously thinking about building a kit for replacing those batteries with rechargeable li-po's. Those cartridges will charge their internal batteries from the console's power supply when booted up, so in order to charge it you just boot it on a GBA SP or a NDS, let the game sit idle while the console itself is plugged to the mains.
Very cool video. Never knew this stuff was that easy. Archiving data from a game is very easy though. I actually have a device I found on ebay for 5 bucks that's flash memory and can hold 5mb worth of saves (or something like that). It looks like a Gameshark Pro... although those Gamesharks can do that too. I have had the same game save for quite a few years with a dead battery that i just haven't changed yet
This video is very handy and informative! That's cool that you can straight-up swap the old GB cartridge batteries with new ones of better capacity. Do you happen to know if the workflow for replacing a SNES battery would be similar to this? I have a few RPG carts lying around like FF2 US that are long past dead now
Thanks for making this video. I was trying to figure out how to replace the cr1616 battery in my Donkey Kong Land 1 cartridge with a cr2032 and you showed it brilliantly. However, the batteries I have don't have a yellow edge or the tabs already on the battery. Can I just heat the tabs on the old battery with my iron and re-use them with the new battery?
I would be careful. Your coin battery might be made of something such as nickel, so that won't work very well. You can easily find these CR2032 batteries on E-bay for very little money, I'd just grab one. ;-)
wow this was smart, i've been trying to find out why that bios code would come out. When it did, it wiped my memory on my Pokemon Gold cart! Thankfully I've been waiting to start it again when my retrode 2 comes in! I also just want to keep them working for as long as possible I'll try this out and come back to when I can get a full playthough of the game without any problems
For games with dead batteries I have a local game store I go to that will replace the battery for around $5 a game, saved me planety of times. The only time they couldnt fix a game was a copy of Super Mario RPG since the battery tabs had loose solder so even a new battery wouldnt have helped
Had no idea those batteries came with the tabs pre-attached. It's been awhile since I opened an NES game but do those use the same tabbed battery? Do you get them from DigiKey or something?
That's some nice soldering. Happy little joints. But wouldn't it be better to replace the 2025 with a 2032 socket for easier maintenance in the future? Were there limitations in clearance? edit: protip, when installing plastic screws always turn the screw counter-clockwise until you feel the click first. By doing so you register the threads to one another and prevent undue wear.
Good tip on the counter clockwise screw. I see so many people on UA-cam just start screwing it in and don't even know they're probably messing up the threads. I don't see much of a point in installing a battery holder since if you replace the battery with high quality ones; you would only have to change the battery maybe 2 times in your lifetime. Maybe a battery holder would be good for your children and grandchildren to replace the battery; if the cartridge lasts that long.
11:42 - 11:52 There's a ball of solder stuck to the plastic ring on the battery, that could pop off and bridge a connection (and turn your cart into a maraca). Not a major issue but felt like i should point it out, otherwise great work!
Does your battery advice also apply to Super Famicom carts? I just ordered one of the KSGER T12 soldering stations that you recommended, so I can start learning to do my own repairs. I have a brand new PC Engine GT that needs re-capping, but I'll start small and work up to that.
I'm trying to do this to fix it up Pokemon yellow cartridge and it's my first time using a soldering iron so I have a few questions. When you're reflowing what temperature are you setting your side or iron at? And also for the no clean what's a good option on Amazon?
This is so interesting snd kinda cathartic to watch :3 Thank you for sharing. And coincidentally these are the exact two games of mine that stopped saving! It's too bad I gave them away 2 years ago since I figured replacing the batteries would be too complicated. Oh well, lol
It's amusing these save batteries are basically interchangeable with CMOS batteries you could pull off any computer motherboard, form factor notwithstanding (and even that can be dealt with).
Thanks for this, I have a copy of Yellow that I’m going to try reflowing. As for backing up saves, I’ve heard that you can do it with a GameShark. That’s probably a better way of doing it if you don’t want to pay out the wazoo for an unreliable clone system.
I need to do this with my Australian copy of Mario Kart Super Circuit for gba. Thanks for reminding me... Btw, nice video. Far better solder skills than I have. I guess the quality of solder can make a difference.
Do you have or could you do a video about the various solder wire, flux, all the various soldering tips - the minutia if you will - of soldering that doesn't get talked about very much? I've spent a lot of time learning to solder, bought a Hakko station, refurbed a lot of games, brought some consoles back to life, and done some console mods but its these little things that don't get talked about very much that I'm curious about now. Are there things I could be using that would improve the quality of my work? Maybe a small set of go-to items I could stick in a toolbox that would be good items to have in a "console repair kit." I don't run a business, I just want to take care of my stuff.
I think also a couple of videos on analog electronics... "electrical information" would be interesting too. Maybe explaining resistors, capacitors, how and why they do what they do, choosing them for projects, etc. I'm obviously not knowledgeable about all of this, so forgive me if these are dumb things to ask about. I get what they do, but why a particular spec of a component may be used in each instance would be helpful?
I know that this stuff probably exists out there, and I would gladly look at them if you have some recommendations, but I really enjoy your concise style of presentation.
Plus dat sexy voice boi.
Sure! I think I can manage doing that, soon. ;-D
I'd also really appreciate a video like this. I am looking at the soldering station you recommended in your last vid, and it comes with the tip you used here. The seller also has many other tips for sale individually, and knowing what each is used for and what might be useful to me would really help. Also any hints on what to do with a new iron to not fuck it up would be great. Proper procedure to make sure the tip will always accept solder, etc. I've used cheap irons before that have had solder run off them, which I'm ure was due to my error. @@Voultar
I would love this as well. I want to know some good solder and no-clean, as I want to upgrade to some that flows better and I want to get away from rosin.
@@Voultar Just watching this video has drastically changed how I approach soldering. I'm very new to doing modwork on consoles and carts and I would love to see a video like that from you too!
I'd like a video like this, too!
This video helped me repair a game I haven't been able to play in goddamn years: Game & Watch Gallery 2. It was one of my favourites growing up, but one day my scores were gone and the cartridge had a rattling sound. Years later I found the game and replaced the battery, but then it wouldn't play properly. The palettes were wrong, and the game froze when trying to play any games. Then I tried the technique shown in the video. Now it works perfectly again! Thank you so much for your wisdom!
Every time after I watch one of your videos and see you zoom in when you work I think everything is very big, but when I go and work on some mods I am amazed at how small these things are. And realize the amount of effort you put into your videos and work. thank you so much for your hard work.
Cam here for the GB game thumbnail, subscribed for one of the cleanest and chilling soldering techniques ever. Seriously that was immaculate, soldering IS NOT that easy. Watching this was like watching Bob Ross with the soldering.
Thanks for the support!
I just wanted to make a comment saying. "The Bob Ross of soldering" Guess you beat me to it.
I'd definitely be interested in a save data backup video!
You make soldering look so easy!
Great job, as always!
Although I personally prefer to wick up all old solder from the pads with solder braid before soldering new components. Makes it easier to position the components and removes an unknown variable (old solder and its properties) from the equation.
You make soldering look so easy. I can never get it to flow that good.
The answer is typically more flux. Remember you can clean it off after so be generous.
And not forgetting a good lead/tin solder, but yes flux is the main key even if you insist on lead free.
A soldering iron with good thermal mass is also a blessing
This is true, I'm between a rock & a hard place in that respect at the moment as I have only a needle-point tip for my 907c iron & a knife edge on a 40W thing I use more for automotive wiring. Need to get me some chisel and knife tips soon.
I have an antex 120w with the 2.4mm df tip and works wonders for large contacts like this. Melts in seconds. A good iron can make all the difference as i used to have a $9 piece of garbage that couldnt melt anything.
Remarkably, I just pulled out my old gameboys from a box while looking for a liquid cpu cooler and decided to give them a go on Thrusday, the day you uploaded your video, only to find one of my old Pokemon games with the same symptoms as yours did. Thank you for showing this content, as I will be using it in the near future to restore my game back to working status.
While you have the cases open, might be a good idea to clean the connector pins. Most of the time 99% isopropyl alcohol works fine. It's what pretty much every cleaning kit came with, and what the 1UPcard comes with. I've never had to use it, but for really tough cases youtuber John Riggs uses either Brasso or Brite Boy metal polish. He's got a whole Open Cart Surgery series, so it must work for him...
Just say no to Brasso!
Absolutely. You should always clean your games.
Love what you do. I want to get into the business of component level repair/modding myself, and you are a key inspiring person.
If your game isn't booting, the truly FIRST thing you should try is cleaning those contacts on your cartridge. 😋
Blowing into it helped almost everytime back in the days
@@xxxLUKRASsxxx that creates moisture and speeds up dmgin them actually
I've done this a lot. In more detail: Step 1: rubbing alcohol (99% pure is preferred) + q-tip. This is nice because you don't even need to open the case. Step 2: Eraser. Open the case, rub the contacts with an eraser. (If at all possible, use an eraser that's not actually in a pencil, as you don't want to scratch the contacts with the eraser holder.) Step 3: Brasso. (This might damage the contacts slightly, so this is only for carts that still have visible issues with the contacts after the first 2 steps have been repeated a few times. 99% of non-booting carts just need the first 2 steps.) Rub brasso on the contacts. Make sure to clean it off afterwards. (Distilled water, then dry it off.) Step 4 is the stuff from this video.
@@trevorc4413 You should never rub brasso on your game cartridge contacts.
Do I need to put more warnings on it? Look, Brasso isn't great, but I don't have a better solution for when there's obvious problems with the contacts, and an eraser isn't helping. Rest assured that I only use it when the alternative is to consider the cartridge unrecoverable.
Sweet! New Voultar Vid! Thank you sir!
I have to admit, I am super interested in dumping the memory on a gameboy cartridge before it goes sour. Your channel has really helped reignite an interest I had in electronics repair in my late teens, thanks for making great content dude.
Great vid! I just got in a box of GBC games and around 1/3 of them needed the SMCs resoldered. All but one work now.
I love watching soldering almost as much as I love soldering...
Cleaning the cartridge contacts is a good idea when you've already got the thing open. No need to get fancy on a game that's already working, just a q-tip and some isopropyl.
This was an eye opener. The reflow trick is brilliant. I've already done it to two games that weren't really working reliably, even after replacing the dead battery. Thanks!
This video was uploaded on my Dad’s birthday! Thanks, Voultar!
Some seriously satisfying soldering again Voultar :)
very beautful joints! Finally someone who knows how to solder.
You sound like the Bob Ross of soldering, it's beautiful lol
happy little solder joints =)
Came to comment the EXACT same thing.lmao
fantastic video. My Links Awakening DX save battery from 1999 is still going strong. 20 years almost, its crazy
That's because LADX has no RTC clock.
Makes total sense- true. thanks @@Sypaka
Thanks for showing me how to fix my old games
some serious mature content here I see... 4:15
lol
oh no, my brain :D.
7:16
Uuuhhh
Yay, more ASMR repair videos!!!
Lmao I’m watching this at night about to go to sleep. ...decided to check out the comment section well Worth it
@TheGame455 lol one of my best sleeps ever
I'd love to see your overall set up. You seem to have a pretty organized area for the most part, so I think it'd be cool to see your work area. What kind if mat you use, how you have things stored, etc. Just an idea.
Hey Voultar! I've recently finished my first ever PS2 modchip install using some of the tricks you showed in your PS2 modding video. I've had a lot of difficulty with the solder points being so small and close together, so in the end the wire work did not turn out to be as good as yours, but it was still decent enough. Anyways, thanks for making these videos!
You bet!
Hey man, just wanted to thank you for making this video, took the same steps you showed us and was able to bring my pokemon yellow version cart i just purchased back to life. This was definitely a big help compared to all other videos I've watched, I was so lost. Thank you for making it so simple.
Have you ever looked into replacing the SRAM chips with non-volatile FRAM? IIRC it doesn't work very well on games with an RTC, but non-RTC games work flawlessly with the mod. The chips used are a drop-in replacement, same pinout and everything, and it also works with first-party N64 memory paks.
You're like the Bob Ross of vintage game repair 🤓 Thank you for the demo!
This video needs more hidden gems.
Thanks for the vids man.
Voultar can you please link the battery, from where to buy, as i can see Toshiba brand, most of the ebay are unbranded and wont last 2yrs
This one is genuine Panasonic, but it'll work just as well: www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/panasonic-bsg/CR-2032-F2N/P657-ND/2404062
Console5.com has the 1616 Panasonic batteries, they also have the Renata 2025s, which I personally use because they are bigger and last longer.
But a 2032 has 20% more capacity, is far more ubiquitous, and fits, so why use a 2025 (or 2016 which has half the capacity)?
Brain fart, I meant 1616.
@@ZiggyTheHamster Voultar shows that there's not a clearance issue with a couple of games, but I still use 2025s just to be safe because I don't want to run into that one game that won't close. Don't plan on changing the battery again within the next 10 years anyway...
I subscribed when i heard "This substrate is quick thin, let me get my calipers..."
MORE....I NEED MORE VOULTAR!
Dude, this is your first video I had the pleasure of watching, and I gotta say, that was tremendously zen. You're a bit like a Bob Ross of soldering. Keep it up!
I was wondering about putting another battery in series while I do the swap. This was good and informative, thanks!
You are the Louis Rossman of retro
combined w/ bob ross
Stale Potato Louis BobRossman
@@samuraivader3814 You win.
I'm looking forward to seeing the update to this for the save data!
Voultar is the Bob Ross of classic console fixers.
Wow haven't seen that comment 5000 times.
Thank you so much for the wonderful video!! Finally, a solder video that's easy for beginner me to follow :) Hopefully I can revive my broken FireRed game!
Thanks for explaining the date code. I bought a copy of Pokemon Yellow Version off eBay with a "New" battery ant it's the original 1999 battery.
This just saved my copy of TMNT 3 radical rescue. Thank you!
I can't do shit when it comes to electronics
but it's just so nice to listen to Voultar
aka discount David Hayter
Awesome I was able to fix NBA Jam.
omg! I didn't have much faith on fixing my copy of super mario land 2 but just reflowing the main game chip, fixed it! thanks a lot!!
Love it!, Thanks dude! you are the best!
oracle of seasons/ages is underrated and overshadowed by LA. Great video!
Thank you. I fixed my cartridge using your guide. Cheers!
You have a solder ball on the insulation wrap of the battery in your Pokemon red. With enough force that could dislodge and start bouncing around in the cartridge. Just looking out for your childhood cartridge.
Nice!
What is the flux you use? I've been looking for a flux that isn't filled with disappointment.
Amtech Flux, now available at store.rossmanngroup.com , that's store.rossmanngroup.com! Don't delay, buy today!™
(I couldn't resist making a Louis Rossmann reference. In all honesty he swears by the stuff and claims it's the best flux ever.)
Does store.rossmanngroup.com sell cats, too?
@@Sypaka
Not currently. You'll need to look elsewhere for a cat. d:
But.. When you go to his site and to the Flux-Aisle, you get cats there.
@@theLuigiFan0007Productions Thanks for the heads up. I'll get it through Amazon because of Prime's free shipping.
I find it interesting that it looks like some later print run copies of Red, Blue, and maybe Yellow seem to use the same PCB as Gold and Silver. Or at least Voultar's copy of Red seems to use the same board as Gold and Silver, just ofc MBC5 instead of MBC3, and no clock crystal.
you're the Bob Ross of retro game repairs!
I love the idea of saving your saves, do it for other carts too!
Bought an English Blue version that was waterlogged. Tried to jump wires on the board, but ended up sacrificing a Japanese Gold version and swapped ROM chips. Flux really is a savior lol thanks for putting up guides like these, they're really entertaining to watch!
Should have kept the gold, lol. (I think gen 2 is better!)
I would've in most cases, but I already had an English Gold. Didn't feel too bad repurposing a game with a language barrier (and incompatibility to English versions) to a game I could play. Of course, no one should ever kill off a game if it works, I still kept the rom chip incase I come across other boards (or hopefully, replacement GameBoy boards)
I've known that one of the major things that happen to these is the disconnecting of the chips and reflowing them fixes the problem but I never knew why. Thats awesome.
One suggestion though would be to clean the game thoroughly first:
1. Clean the main connecting pins that join into cartridge slot with a pencil eraser or isopropyl alcohol on a cotton swab.
2. Clean the pins surface mounted to the board from each chip with alcohol and cotton swab( particularly the rom and ram chips )
3. Clean all the traces especially if it looks like they have any corrosion or oxidization
Generally the corrupted looking Nintendo logo can be solved by the above three steps. If that fails then you start thinking about reflowing the chips.
You shouldn't reflow the chips unless you really have to since it carries a risk of overheating and destroying the chip or shorting some of the pins if you're not careful
I always wondered why my copy of Silver would randomly corrupt my saves. At the time, I didn't know about the battery 🤣.
Now, if I can find it, I can fix it.
I have some non-booting carts to try to revive now, Aladdin and Desert Strike I think.
Thanks for the video
Yo I just fixed my copy of Legend of Zelda: Oracle of Seasons that has been dead for over 12 years today thanks to this vid! It was indeed a lifted pin on the rom chip
Damn it love your videos. Wish there were more of them.
I fixed a non-booting copy of Pokemon Yellow with this info. Thanks Voultar!
BTW, can you do a video explaining how to dump and reload the SRAM for different cartridges? Not necessarily just Gameboy, just in general.
Beautiful. Bob Ross of video games
Even though I use the knife method, this is a better version of soldering batteries because the CR2032 ones, I used them on my Pokémon Gold, Silver & Crystal as well as Oracle of Ages and Seasons despite the latter having working batteries before but still.
I just about fell out of my chair laughing so hard at the
"HOLY SH!T" battery comparison comment.
Wow. nice video.
Iv been just cleaning the contacts with mr clean magic eraser. I later got those one up cards. Now i found out it's made solder joints.
If you have a cartridge that needs a new battery but still works and has precious saves on it, get a smaller third battery and temporarily solder it to the areas of the board that the old battery connects to until you are done replacing the main battery. This should keep the cartridge clock running and game files in memory safe
I think that'll work; also you can have it turned on in the Gameboy while you solder a new one in; that way is probably more risky though; with burning the Gameboy or accidently turning it off.
Great video :) and clean job ^^
I still remember keeping my game boy on for like half a year just because Pokémon gold doesn’t save for me
Man love you videos !
Very relaxing
I'm glad that all of my batteries are still working, even in games from 1991 (Final Fantasy III, Mystic Quest)!
A button battery holder is another option when replacing the batteries in these cartridges, makes battery replacement painless in the future. The trade-off being that you're stuck with the smaller CR1616's in the original GB cartridges.
I am seriously thinking about building a kit for replacing those batteries with rechargeable li-po's. Those cartridges will charge their internal batteries from the console's power supply when booted up, so in order to charge it you just boot it on a GBA SP or a NDS, let the game sit idle while the console itself is plugged to the mains.
What if it over charges though?
More, we need more!
Very cool video. Never knew this stuff was that easy.
Archiving data from a game is very easy though. I actually have a device I found on ebay for 5 bucks that's flash memory and can hold 5mb worth of saves (or something like that). It looks like a Gameshark Pro... although those Gamesharks can do that too. I have had the same game save for quite a few years with a dead battery that i just haven't changed yet
Nice video. Keep em coming!
This guy is the Bob Ross of soldering.
This video is very handy and informative! That's cool that you can straight-up swap the old GB cartridge batteries with new ones of better capacity. Do you happen to know if the workflow for replacing a SNES battery would be similar to this? I have a few RPG carts lying around like FF2 US that are long past dead now
It's pretty much the same. Although SNES carts have batteries that "poke" through the PCB.
Thanks for making this video. I was trying to figure out how to replace the cr1616 battery in my Donkey Kong Land 1 cartridge with a cr2032 and you showed it brilliantly. However, the batteries I have don't have a yellow edge or the tabs already on the battery. Can I just heat the tabs on the old battery with my iron and re-use them with the new battery?
I would be careful. Your coin battery might be made of something such as nickel, so that won't work very well. You can easily find these CR2032 batteries on E-bay for very little money, I'd just grab one. ;-)
wow this was smart, i've been trying to find out why that bios code would come out. When it did, it wiped my memory on my Pokemon Gold cart! Thankfully I've been waiting to start it again when my retrode 2 comes in! I also just want to keep them working for as long as possible I'll try this out and come back to when I can get a full playthough of the game without any problems
Thanks for the video!
Simply amazing
Have you done the battery change process with the cartridge inside a gameshark for easy access to the battery?
For games with dead batteries I have a local game store I go to that will replace the battery for around $5 a game, saved me planety of times. The only time they couldnt fix a game was a copy of Super Mario RPG since the battery tabs had loose solder so even a new battery wouldnt have helped
What do you mean loose solder?
My blue version has the same issue as your red. Will be trying this since I thought it was a lost cause.
1616s have an average capacity of 50mAh, while 2032s have an average capacity of 225mAh
Had no idea those batteries came with the tabs pre-attached. It's been awhile since I opened an NES game but do those use the same tabbed battery? Do you get them from DigiKey or something?
I've seen ebay and amazon selling the ones with tabs.
This is some amazing stuff for someone looking to get into electronics. How did you learn how to do this stuff?
That's some nice soldering. Happy little joints. But wouldn't it be better to replace the 2025 with a 2032 socket for easier maintenance in the future? Were there limitations in clearance?
edit: protip, when installing plastic screws always turn the screw counter-clockwise until you feel the click first. By doing so you register the threads to one another and prevent undue wear.
Good tip on the counter clockwise screw. I see so many people on UA-cam just start screwing it in and don't even know they're probably messing up the threads. I don't see much of a point in installing a battery holder since if you replace the battery with high quality ones; you would only have to change the battery maybe 2 times in your lifetime. Maybe a battery holder would be good for your children and grandchildren to replace the battery; if the cartridge lasts that long.
I have a couple of gameboy and gba games that have this problem, gonna try this out.
11:42 - 11:52 There's a ball of solder stuck to the plastic ring on the battery, that could pop off and bridge a connection (and turn your cart into a maraca). Not a major issue but felt like i should point it out, otherwise great work!
Does your battery advice also apply to Super Famicom carts? I just ordered one of the KSGER T12 soldering stations that you recommended, so I can start learning to do my own repairs. I have a brand new PC Engine GT that needs re-capping, but I'll start small and work up to that.
good stuff man
Thanks Voultar. Youre lovely. x
I'm trying to do this to fix it up Pokemon yellow cartridge and it's my first time using a soldering iron so I have a few questions. When you're reflowing what temperature are you setting your side or iron at? And also for the no clean what's a good option on Amazon?
This is so interesting snd kinda cathartic to watch :3 Thank you for sharing.
And coincidentally these are the exact two games of mine that stopped saving! It's too bad I gave them away 2 years ago since I figured replacing the batteries would be too complicated. Oh well, lol
It's amusing these save batteries are basically interchangeable with CMOS batteries you could pull off any computer motherboard, form factor notwithstanding (and even that can be dealt with).
Do you have a place for suggestions? By the way my son and I love your videos.
Thanks for this, I have a copy of Yellow that I’m going to try reflowing.
As for backing up saves, I’ve heard that you can do it with a GameShark. That’s probably a better way of doing it if you don’t want to pay out the wazoo for an unreliable clone system.
Gb cart dumpers are 27 USD on ebay. For a better quality dumper you can get benvenns dumper, it supports gb gbc and gba, it runs about 50$
I need to do this with my Australian copy of Mario Kart Super Circuit for gba. Thanks for reminding me...
Btw, nice video. Far better solder skills than I have. I guess the quality of solder can make a difference.
You're like the Bob Ross of game repairs