If you're seeing that problem only after applying the screw, it often implies a small crack in the board. Try using different levels of tension on the screw to see if that relieves or exacerbates the problem. If so look at the areas that the board would flex under stress and induce a light force to see if the crack becomes apparent or continuity fails. Also I hear acrylic nail polish works great as a mask.
I don’t know what it is about these type of restoration videos, but I find them so relaxing to watch, almost like ASMR. His calm voice combined with the visual of soldering, I enjoy it
I hate that kind of problem when it comes to tech. It’s just the same as calling out a plumber / electrician and you explain what’s wrong but when they turn up it starts working fine lol. It’s 10x harder to fix a reoccurring problem than a constant problem.
Looking back, it did make sense that the culprit would've been the memory bank controller. Here's the run-down on the Memory Bank Controller, for those unaware: The Gameboy's CPU only has a 16-bit address bus, meaning it can only "see," for lack of a better word, up to 65,535 bytes of data. But as games got more sophisticated, they in turn needed more space than the CPU could address. So they would use a large ROM chip and a memory bank controller that would split the ROM into 16kb "banks" and swap the banks in and out on the fly (this is done for any cartridge RAM as well, into 8kb banks). Up to two ROM banks can be loaded at a time, with the first bank always loaded. I believe the issue might've been in a pin or connection to a pin controlling the bank switching. Here's my theory: It was able to load the first bank, as shown by the complete Nintendo logo, which is stored there, and the second one. When it couldn't switch the second bank out, it used code in the second bank in unintended ways, as it assumed it was in a different bank, which caused an immediate crash.
So, I paused to write this after you got it "working" the first time, and I assumed the rest of the video was you cleaning up the board. Oops. In other words, while my theory is still plausible, that might not have been what happened lol
That is why i went for the mbc first. It very well could be the trace going to the mbc, but hard to say for sure without a better knowledge of how these issues would cause it to behave
@@RetroRepairs Most of what Ziggy said is probably accurate, but the problem being the second bank couldn't be used because of a missing connection on the ROM chip you reflowed last. Bank0 is where the Nintendo logo is stored, then part of Pokémon Yellow's entry point is to load Bank1 to set up OAM DMA (to read instructions on how to display full sprites from tiles basically) which was likely the failure point.
Truthfully, I don't think it was him. I remember seeing some guy open up a box of old NES consoles and seeing what he could salvage, which inspired me to try. If you go back in my channel you'll see my very first video was a box of old SNES consoles i for for super cheap. I don't recall who the channel was, but i wasnt huge into the Retro gaming scene then. I knew i wanted to get back into it, was a DIYer, and figured i could get a lot of this stuff for cheap if i could just fix it myself, which pretty much rebooted my whole interest in retro gaming and helped me learn as i go
I remember Retro game tech! Good stuff! First one I found was GameTechUS, that sparked the interest for me, he used to do a lot of NES repairs. Anyway love the videos, keep up the good work!
Thank you sooo much for that video. A few years ago my childhood pokemon yellow edition stopt working. White screen after clear nintendo logo. I didnt know what to do. I found this video and tried to reflow the solder joints on the chips. Now it works like new. Changed even the battery for saving. Thank you for bringing back childhood memories. Keep up the good work. Thumbs up!
Love that shell bought through your link. I have just started doing retro repairs myself just did a GameCube and an N64 both trash both now comfortably in my collection. From e-wase to treasure. Keep up the good work!
When I first purchased my pokemon yellow it was in very rough shape. After cleaning the entire board and reflowing all the main chips as you did it fires up and works no problem again! Thanks for the appreciated info and help!
Hey there, thanks for the video. I'm mostly in very old repairs with Tubes and stuff :D But watching these videos is a nice change! One hint: You may set the whitebalance of your camera manually. Otherwise the colours are sometimes way off and/or change in the video. Best wishes from germany!
I'll look at it for next video. I'm using the same camera I've always used, but this is the only video multiple people are pointing it out so something must have changed
Thank you dude. I really loved that you explain almost everything you did, helped me really understand the process. I’m a little more confident I can get into soldering now❤️
I can't believe I have memories of this game and others on shelf and in the used case 😅 where the thought of picking up a copy was no big deal. Easy to find. Basically in any game store
Thank you so much for this video! I have a gba sp I’m trying to fix up but the cartridge slot wasn’t working. After seeing this video I drag soldered the cartridge reader and that fixed it right up!
Another Gameboy cart saved ! This one was nice, as the damage wasnt obvious from the start. But you made it working again. Question is, does the battery still work?
I have this same issue with Batman and will give the reflowing a try- the chips to me looked like the solder was skimped out a bit, but I couldn't see any broken joints.
Another helpful video! I have a copy of Pokemon Red I bought off eBay that acts somewhat like this. Tried reflowing the solder last year but no dice. Kind of want to give it another go soon.
There's a couple schools of thought, but i prefer hotter so you don't need to keep contact for too long.too much heat can damage an IC, but keeping less heat for longer will damage more than high heat briefly. 60/40 solder melts at 370F, 625-650is a good starting point, if you find it takes too long to melt, go up a touch. If not, you can move down. I usually work closer to 700
@@RetroRepairs That's a good point. I hadn't really thought about the long term lifetime of the adhesive (and every thing i repair is just for my personal use or a friends). Though considering the case is tight enough that it's rubbing away the solder mask, it would probably hold the kapton tape in place just from the pressure of the case. You are right though a fresh coating of solder mask probably is the better repair, probably wouldn't hurt for it to be a bit extra think too.
Great video Adam. I have the same problem my WWF WrestleMania 2000 (N64) but if I take it apart and clean it with IPA and put it together it boots up but Idk for how long. I played the most likely for 10 minutes. Have any idea 💡?
If all traces are good, for my experience, 95% of the problems are bad ROM chip connection. So reflowing rom chip is the way. 3-4% bad RAM chip connection. Never had a mapper chip connection problem, only 3 cases (1%) with broken RTC on 2 gen pokemon games, replaced the quartz and fully working now.
Can you please make a video showing how to fix a rattling GBC/GB cartridge? My Pokémon Crystal rattles and if I move it while inside my GBA it freezes the game.
What's happening with the turbografx16 cd never seen 1 of them repaired! are you still waiting on parts? as I noticed you are repairing your newest pickups
I assume you mean 1616? The cr2025 batteries are wider and thicker, so as long as you can physically fit it in, it will be fine. I think it will be ok, but you'd want to test fit it to be sure
I've used a cr2032 battery to replace a cr1615 battery. Although if you want to use a battery socket you'd probably want to use the regular cr1615 as a cr2032 with socket is too big.
@@RetroRepairs I agree but I remember seeing it on a UA-cam video somewhere. I think Voultar did a socket mod for the snes cartridges, and I thought I'd seen a gbc game by someone else somewhere. Have a good evening and stay warm.
What works best for me is to completely desolder the chips and resolder them with fresh solder and it works perfectly for me and fixes issues reflows can’t
Hey Adam, How do you get the beep sound on your multimeter? I've had a few cheap multimeters in the past but I haven't had any with the beep sound. Does anyone know?
There was already a save game on it, so it's probably ok, but before i commit to keeping or selling it I'd probably replace the battery anyway. Can be a different video
When reflowing a chip a lil sodder bead got stuck behind the pins, now with any slight movement the game will crash :v it boots however for what that's worth
Is a Pokémon Yellow a particularly valuable cartridge? Is there enough of a spread between the purchase price and the resale value to justify the amount of time/effort expended in fixing it?
I bought it for sub-10 and I've seen them go for over 60 in good condition. But i don't really do this for resale purposes. I only do this stuff as a hobby, not a business
My general troubleshooting for carts: 1. Make sure connector is clean 2. Look for bad traces near connector pins 3. Reflow chips. 4. Inspect individual components 1 and 2 looked good, 3 is pretty common on thin boards like this
@@RetroRepairs yeah, im wondering if its worth getting a hotplate for small boards like this to reflow everything including capacitors, resistors etc. in one
The hotplate won't reflow, a hot plate is to heat up the board evenly so you don't have localized expansion. If you're using a hot air gun, it's highly recommended. You might be thinking of a reflow oven
I stand corrected, it seems you can do some soldering with a hot plate. I don't like the idea of heating everything up like that though, id think you're more prone to damaging the ICs that way, but I've never actually used a plate like that
Best to use good flux. Doesn't need to be super expensive. I use mg chemicals rosin flux. You can get some cheap stuff from overseas, but it'll be hit or miss on quality. No clean flux works great, but despite its name, you need to make sure you're cleaning your work very well. Rosin flux is mostly inert, but messier so clean it so it looks good, but if you don't, it'll be ok
@@RetroRepairs i've never used flux since i didn't have to solder or re-solder some Pins, recently i picked a flux here from a shop i Hope Is decent, Is made in my country (Italy).. thx for the tips, i Always clean all up with IP alchool After working on a motherboard
I'm sure it'll be fine. I'm not familiar with most of the brands you'll find in europe. I'm referring more to the cheap stuff you might find on alibaba or something similar. That'll be hit or miss
@@RetroRepairs thank you, i Will search for some magnifying glasses and good lamps too. For now i got a soldering station (hakko) to replace the soldering iron and the mat to work on
@@RetroRepairs If it wasn't for money and time, I feel I could get a hang of trying it. Your videos have really helped me understand the process of repairing games and consoles.
No, but you assume this is pure alcohol. Over time various particles will get in it which makes it slightly more conductive. Same idea with water. Distilled water is not conductive
If you're seeing that problem only after applying the screw, it often implies a small crack in the board. Try using different levels of tension on the screw to see if that relieves or exacerbates the problem. If so look at the areas that the board would flex under stress and induce a light force to see if the crack becomes apparent or continuity fails.
Also I hear acrylic nail polish works great as a mask.
bingo
I don’t know what it is about these type of restoration videos, but I find them so relaxing to watch, almost like ASMR. His calm voice combined with the visual of soldering, I enjoy it
I hate that kind of problem when it comes to tech. It’s just the same as calling out a plumber / electrician and you explain what’s wrong but when they turn up it starts working fine lol. It’s 10x harder to fix a reoccurring problem than a constant problem.
Looking back, it did make sense that the culprit would've been the memory bank controller. Here's the run-down on the Memory Bank Controller, for those unaware: The Gameboy's CPU only has a 16-bit address bus, meaning it can only "see," for lack of a better word, up to 65,535 bytes of data. But as games got more sophisticated, they in turn needed more space than the CPU could address. So they would use a large ROM chip and a memory bank controller that would split the ROM into 16kb "banks" and swap the banks in and out on the fly (this is done for any cartridge RAM as well, into 8kb banks). Up to two ROM banks can be loaded at a time, with the first bank always loaded.
I believe the issue might've been in a pin or connection to a pin controlling the bank switching. Here's my theory: It was able to load the first bank, as shown by the complete Nintendo logo, which is stored there, and the second one. When it couldn't switch the second bank out, it used code in the second bank in unintended ways, as it assumed it was in a different bank, which caused an immediate crash.
Thanks for the info. That certainly makes sense
So, I paused to write this after you got it "working" the first time, and I assumed the rest of the video was you cleaning up the board. Oops.
In other words, while my theory is still plausible, that might not have been what happened lol
That is why i went for the mbc first. It very well could be the trace going to the mbc, but hard to say for sure without a better knowledge of how these issues would cause it to behave
@@RetroRepairs Most of what Ziggy said is probably accurate, but the problem being the second bank couldn't be used because of a missing connection on the ROM chip you reflowed last. Bank0 is where the Nintendo logo is stored, then part of Pokémon Yellow's entry point is to load Bank1 to set up OAM DMA (to read instructions on how to display full sprites from tiles basically) which was likely the failure point.
Thats the issue my pokemon pinball thing had.
Address decoder would fail and cause the game to lock up.
I'm in the army right now and seeing you upload saved my day.
Great vid, Adam! Thanks for bringing life back to this retro classic!
Just found this channel. It reminds me of an even older UA-cam channel, retro game tech. Perhaps it was an inspiration for this channel?
Truthfully, I don't think it was him. I remember seeing some guy open up a box of old NES consoles and seeing what he could salvage, which inspired me to try. If you go back in my channel you'll see my very first video was a box of old SNES consoles i for for super cheap.
I don't recall who the channel was, but i wasnt huge into the Retro gaming scene then. I knew i wanted to get back into it, was a DIYer, and figured i could get a lot of this stuff for cheap if i could just fix it myself, which pretty much rebooted my whole interest in retro gaming and helped me learn as i go
I remember Retro game tech! Good stuff!
First one I found was GameTechUS, that sparked the interest for me, he used to do a lot of NES repairs.
Anyway love the videos, keep up the good work!
Thank you sooo much for that video. A few years ago my childhood pokemon yellow edition stopt working. White screen after clear nintendo logo. I didnt know what to do. I found this video and tried to reflow the solder joints on the chips. Now it works like new. Changed even the battery for saving. Thank you for bringing back childhood memories. Keep up the good work. Thumbs up!
Love that shell bought through your link. I have just started doing retro repairs myself just did a GameCube and an N64 both trash both now comfortably in my collection. From e-wase to treasure. Keep up the good work!
When I first purchased my pokemon yellow it was in very rough shape. After cleaning the entire board and reflowing all the main chips as you did it fires up and works no problem again! Thanks for the appreciated info and help!
13:35 “tiny bit of solder on this square, that doesn’t matter” famous last words
Really nice to have you back. Your videos are so relaxing and comfortable to watch.
Just found this channel. I ama tinkerer. I have binged everything I could! Great content. Keep it up! Thank you for teaching us
I'm impressed and geek out over this stuff. Great job and I have been enjoying the videos
11:43 No, alcohol is non-conductive.
exactly, that's why you can find shorted ICs with it
very nice! I would've reflowed all the chips in the first go though. old solder is bound to be cracked.
Thank you so much for these videos; I really want to give repairing a shot! I watch your videos everyday at work :)
Hey there, thanks for the video. I'm mostly in very old repairs with Tubes and stuff :D But watching these videos is a nice change! One hint: You may set the whitebalance of your camera manually. Otherwise the colours are sometimes way off and/or change in the video.
Best wishes from germany!
Was gonna say I thought it was a blue light reduction filter lol
I'll look at it for next video. I'm using the same camera I've always used, but this is the only video multiple people are pointing it out so something must have changed
So glad to see more videos!
Thank you dude. I really loved that you explain almost everything you did, helped me really understand the process. I’m a little more confident I can get into soldering now❤️
I can't believe I have memories of this game and others on shelf and in the used case 😅 where the thought of picking up a copy was no big deal. Easy to find. Basically in any game store
Thank you so much for this video! I have a gba sp I’m trying to fix up but the cartridge slot wasn’t working. After seeing this video I drag soldered the cartridge reader and that fixed it right up!
Love that you are posting videos again welcome back.
I like how it fired once and you didn't just shut the camera off. You tried to get it to fail to be certain that it was right.
lol I had an electronics teacher in high school who said the exact opposite... "flux is bad, don't use it." ... I never listened
Flux is bad if you ingest it, sure
I lucked out with my blue version. Double checked all the pins on the chip and one knocked loose. Resolder'd it and it worked!
Nice to see you repairing stuff again.
Just fixed a GBC game by reflowing all the chips on the board, thanks!
Just did this on a copy of final fantasy legends 3. Luckily it started up at the 2nd chip i did. Thanks for the video, it was very informative.
Nice video. Glad to see you back.
Another Gameboy cart saved !
This one was nice, as the damage wasnt obvious from the start. But you made it working again.
Question is, does the battery still work?
Yes it works, but it's only a matter of time so it's due for a replacement
I have this same issue with Batman and will give the reflowing a try- the chips to me looked like the solder was skimped out a bit, but I couldn't see any broken joints.
Wow, thank you, i followed this and was able to fix my own copy of Pokemon Yellow that was having the same issue
Adam, why do you call it sodder?... there's an L in there mate, or is it spelt differently in Canada?
Another helpful video! I have a copy of Pokemon Red I bought off eBay that acts somewhat like this. Tried reflowing the solder last year but no dice. Kind of want to give it another go soon.
Wow the eraser trick worked. My pins did look a little too dirty so I hoped that was the only issue and it was!
I'm still watching the vid but looks like this cartridge is addicted to alcohol
It can stop anytime it wants
Soldering beginner here, what temp should I normally be reflowing solder at on a Gameboy cart pcb?
There's a couple schools of thought, but i prefer hotter so you don't need to keep contact for too long.too much heat can damage an IC, but keeping less heat for longer will damage more than high heat briefly.
60/40 solder melts at 370F, 625-650is a good starting point, if you find it takes too long to melt, go up a touch. If not, you can move down. I usually work closer to 700
I typically use anywhere from 300C to 350C. 330C is the sweet spot.
350c = 662f, so we're pretty similar. I work a little hotter, but same ballpark.
I'll often just add a small piece of Kapton tape where the cartridge shell is rubbing off the solder mask.
No worry of it slipping?
When i open some consoles and see 20 year old tape, the adhesive often leaves much to be desired
@@RetroRepairs That's a good point. I hadn't really thought about the long term lifetime of the adhesive (and every thing i repair is just for my personal use or a friends). Though considering the case is tight enough that it's rubbing away the solder mask, it would probably hold the kapton tape in place just from the pressure of the case. You are right though a fresh coating of solder mask probably is the better repair, probably wouldn't hurt for it to be a bit extra think too.
Hey! Good, you're back!!!
Yes!!!!! Thanks! So glad you're back!!!
I would have started either way with a battery swap first to prevent future complications. :) Matt
Getting it working was the first goal, the battery is not necessary for the game to boot
@@RetroRepairs You are absolutely right about that, but thats where I would start to prepare it for a long bright future :) Matt
It will be getting a fresh battery, for sure. It still works, but it's had a long life.
I have a similar problem like this I have to clean the board every time with ispa to boot up any idea what could be the issue ???
Great video Adam. I have the same problem my WWF WrestleMania 2000 (N64) but if I take it apart and clean it with IPA and put it together it boots up but Idk for how long. I played the most likely for 10 minutes. Have any idea 💡?
When you use the soldering iron, do you actually touch the connections or just get it really close
Rossmann proves there’s no such thing as too much flux.
If all traces are good, for my experience, 95% of the problems are bad ROM chip connection. So reflowing rom chip is the way. 3-4% bad RAM chip connection. Never had a mapper chip connection problem, only 3 cases (1%) with broken RTC on 2 gen pokemon games, replaced the quartz and fully working now.
Can you please make a video showing how to fix a rattling GBC/GB cartridge?
My Pokémon Crystal rattles and if I move it while inside my GBA it freezes the game.
I have a copy with this exact problem. Except it won't boot to the GameFreaks Logo, but does show the Nintendo logo.
Where were you when I was constantly rebuy games jk pokemon crystal games does it alot too try repairing that one
Can you please tell me where u found this specific type of screw driver? Thanks
What's happening with the turbografx16 cd never seen 1 of them repaired! are you still waiting on parts? as I noticed you are repairing your newest pickups
I've got a question: Can I use a Cr202 battery to replace a Cr1615 on the Pokemon Yellow Cartridge??
I assume you mean 1616?
The cr2025 batteries are wider and thicker, so as long as you can physically fit it in, it will be fine. I think it will be ok, but you'd want to test fit it to be sure
I've used a cr2032 battery to replace a cr1615 battery. Although if you want to use a battery socket you'd probably want to use the regular cr1615 as a cr2032 with socket is too big.
I'm of the opinion there's no reason to use a socket. If you need to swap them that often, you're using terrible batteries
@@RetroRepairs I agree but I remember seeing it on a UA-cam video somewhere. I think Voultar did a socket mod for the snes cartridges, and I thought I'd seen a gbc game by someone else somewhere.
Have a good evening and stay warm.
@@haloslayer255 yeah it's definitely doable, i just don't see the point. These lasted 20-30 years, I'd rather just solder in a battery.
Take care
How much would it to be hire to fix a none starting game?
This cartridge is such a troll.
Nicely done Adam!
i usually just use a carbon pen to retrace bad traces. Works for 95% of all cases and lasts for ever.
No bad traces here to retrace
I just had an idea if you ever get into doing merchandise. In my mind I am seeing a shirt that says "Flux it up and tin the tip"
What type of tool and the size you use to rent he screw
What works best for me is to completely desolder the chips and resolder them with fresh solder and it works perfectly for me and fixes issues reflows can’t
If a quick reflow didn't work, that would be my next step as the visible traces looked good
Just always clean the entire board with isopropyl alcohol and swap the battery. Works 90% of the time.
The battery has nothing to do with a game booting.
Hey Adam, How do you get the beep sound on your multimeter? I've had a few cheap multimeters in the past but I haven't had any with the beep sound. Does anyone know?
It depends on the multimeter. Some might not have it. Usually there will be a symbol that looks like a speaker if it does
Is that a blue reduction filter you're applying to this video or is it my phone
Do you do a save test to check the battery?
There was already a save game on it, so it's probably ok, but before i commit to keeping or selling it I'd probably replace the battery anyway. Can be a different video
Awesome videos but your dynamic colour balance is horrific!
I really need someone to explain to me fully why americans don't say the L in solder one day..
Forgive me. But, why would you even use a paper towel to dry off isopropyl alcohol?
When reflowing a chip a lil sodder bead got stuck behind the pins, now with any slight movement the game will crash :v
it boots however for what that's worth
I wanted to ask if you can fix my donkey kong country game for gameboy color
Can I send you my gbc game to get fixed?
you can use toilet paper to soak up the alcohol otherwise the alcohol dries up and it leaves sticky flux everywhere anyway
wait so what was the issue? it seems intermittent
Is a Pokémon Yellow a particularly valuable cartridge? Is there enough of a spread between the purchase price and the resale value to justify the amount of time/effort expended in fixing it?
I bought it for sub-10 and I've seen them go for over 60 in good condition.
But i don't really do this for resale purposes. I only do this stuff as a hobby, not a business
I thought you would swap the battery out while you had it open.
I will, but haven't included it in this video for time reasons. It still works, but it's due for a new one
the colors in the video seem off its really distracting
i love the mg chemicals no clean, it's thinner than iso
I have a pokemon blue with similar problems, is there a way you can help?
I am not able to take on repair jobs for people, but there's a great chance the same fix will help
if in doubt, reflow it all haha
My general troubleshooting for carts:
1. Make sure connector is clean
2. Look for bad traces near connector pins
3. Reflow chips.
4. Inspect individual components
1 and 2 looked good, 3 is pretty common on thin boards like this
@@RetroRepairs yeah, im wondering if its worth getting a hotplate for small boards like this to reflow everything including capacitors, resistors etc. in one
The hotplate won't reflow, a hot plate is to heat up the board evenly so you don't have localized expansion. If you're using a hot air gun, it's highly recommended.
You might be thinking of a reflow oven
I stand corrected, it seems you can do some soldering with a hot plate. I don't like the idea of heating everything up like that though, id think you're more prone to damaging the ICs that way, but I've never actually used a plate like that
mine drains save batteries like super fast. They don't even last a night
You've tested this with a new battery? If you've replaced the battery, it sounds like something is shorted, draining your battery
what flux do you use for that work? does any kind of flux works?
Best to use good flux. Doesn't need to be super expensive. I use mg chemicals rosin flux. You can get some cheap stuff from overseas, but it'll be hit or miss on quality.
No clean flux works great, but despite its name, you need to make sure you're cleaning your work very well. Rosin flux is mostly inert, but messier so clean it so it looks good, but if you don't, it'll be ok
@@RetroRepairs i've never used flux since i didn't have to solder or re-solder some Pins, recently i picked a flux here from a shop i Hope Is decent, Is made in my country (Italy).. thx for the tips, i Always clean all up with IP alchool After working on a motherboard
I'm sure it'll be fine. I'm not familiar with most of the brands you'll find in europe. I'm referring more to the cheap stuff you might find on alibaba or something similar. That'll be hit or miss
@@RetroRepairs thank you, i Will search for some magnifying glasses and good lamps too. For now i got a soldering station (hakko) to replace the soldering iron and the mat to work on
Awesome. I use a hakko fx-888d. It's more of an inexpensive lightweight soldering station, but it works well for what i need
Great video as always 🤣🤣😅
I wish I could do repairs like these
It wasn't long ago that i had no idea what to do. Everyone starts somewhere
@@RetroRepairs If it wasn't for money and time, I feel I could get a hang of trying it. Your videos have really helped me understand the process of repairing games and consoles.
Damn I got 2 ps2's one fat and slim It would be amazing if Some1 like u could fix them for me
Isopropyl alcohol helps with cleaning a lot! 😏👉✨🕹🖥✨
Great video👌
Are you an Oompa Loompa?
Can you please use white lights in your videos? Omg
Why?
I disagree. The warm lights are more relaxing
His lights are not really a problem. The auto white balance on his camera is though.
👍👍
:D
here at 33,333 views and 123 comments
Hi
Alcohol Is not conducting
No, but you assume this is pure alcohol. Over time various particles will get in it which makes it slightly more conductive. Same idea with water. Distilled water is not conductive
omg face reveal lol