Well, another thing we all should double check when hooking up a new solar system or panel array to the charge controller and inverter. Good to know GBear, thank you for passing this info along.
Great update brother , I sold my midnights and bought another flexmax 80 seems to do better for me and the teslas ,nothing against midnite but I can keep a better eye on my flexmaxes
@southernohiosolarhomestead8477 I've been running my A/C all day since 930am, still on, with ceiling fan, and the well pump kicking in for dog water, dishes and a shower, and still at 13.6v on my 4, 12v batteries through my Midnite. Apparently the massive amps were the problem, because since adjusting them down, it has been behaving well. I bought some #4 wire today to replace the #8, but am not in a rush to change them, since it's running just fine. I'll wait for the heat wave to pass.
lifepo4 can charge at 1C without issues so i don't think your ever gonna hit any unsafe charginging on those batteries, you should definitely upgrade those wires since your panels was able to pump all those amps
@@GBear i would also buy a 500amp shunt capacity monitor so you know exactly how much battery % is left so you know when your batteries are about dead or not, judging batteyy try capacities off voltage on a Lifepo4 is extremely hard and not very accurate
Sounds like your new batteries shut themselves off to protect them from being overcharged. Now that your charge controller is set properly everything should be fine. The BMS did it's job.
Is 40 amp a battery you have 4 battery in series so that means right now you’re charging the batteries with 10 amp apiece the way it was set up a 98 amp charge to charge the batteries, a 24.5 amp piece they were fine. You have a problem somewhere else.
@@GBear Yes, parallel not series, but they're still right - the amperage going to the batteries will be split between them. You talk about your 8 gauge wire not being hot anymore, and it was hot before - it's because you're using undersized wire. Best I can tell from a manual PDF I found, that controller will take up to 4awg cable - that would do fine for 90 amps at a few feet. 8awg should have no more than about 40 amps pushed through it.
Elon Musk explained it well. At zero charge percentage the batteries can handle a lot of current for fast charging, the last 20% charge takes as long if not longer than the first 80%. It’s like musical chairs, when the chairs are taken away (no more open slots) the electrons have to bounce around and find an opening (empty chair). Bulk charge for max current then at 80% full charge absorption should kick in at a lesser current then float should be zero because there are no more chairs to fill. This is very different than lead acid which loves a trickle charge. However, with lifepo4 in real use scenarios the inverter is usually drawing something so as they drain float goes to absorption or even bulk as you draw down the batteries. If you can set float current to zero.
@@GBear Victron! When you go 48v you should consider one. Victron can charge a dead battery. Also stay away from wind turbine to lifepo4 or run it through the lead acid then to a dc to dc charger.
Great you got it sorted out.
@@daz.r1994 Yep, I loved solving things.
I say, there's no problems, just unsolved opportunities.
Glad to hear you're gettin it figured out. TAKE CARE..
Yep, up and running just fine since I limited the amps to the recommended 46A.
Well, another thing we all should double check when hooking up a new solar system or panel array to the charge controller and inverter. Good to know GBear, thank you for passing this info along.
Yep, the book recommends 46A charge, and it seems to be working just fine.
Hopefully that lesson didn't cost anything, good work on figuring it out.
Yeah, I'm being told to get a shunt with battery monitor, but having trouble finding one to handle 920a.
I am curious to find out what was drawing so much power. I hope you find out soon. And let us know.
Seems to be running fine with the amps limited at the controller.
put that cover on to keep the dust out of the electronics
I'll do that as soon as I'm sure the system is set right.
Great update brother , I sold my midnights and bought another flexmax 80 seems to do better for me and the teslas ,nothing against midnite but I can keep a better eye on my flexmaxes
In my situation
When my inheritance comes, I plan on getting a Sungoldpower all in one, 48v 10k, split phase with Bluetooth.
@@GBear oh that’s gonna be awesome
@southernohiosolarhomestead8477 I've been running my A/C all day since 930am, still on, with ceiling fan, and the well pump kicking in for dog water, dishes and a shower, and still at 13.6v on my 4, 12v batteries through my Midnite. Apparently the massive amps were the problem, because since adjusting them down, it has been behaving well. I bought some #4 wire today to replace the #8, but am not in a rush to change them, since it's running just fine. I'll wait for the heat wave to pass.
Not related here, but have you considered bumping up to 24 V or higher inverter?
Yes, recent videos are the start of converting to 48v 10k system
Welcome aboard!
lifepo4 can charge at 1C without issues so i don't think your ever gonna hit any unsafe charginging on those batteries, you should definitely upgrade those wires since your panels was able to pump all those amps
Yep, going to buy 4g wire today.
Welcome aboard!
@@GBear i would also buy a 500amp shunt capacity monitor so you know exactly how much battery % is left so you know when your batteries are about dead or not, judging batteyy try capacities off voltage on a Lifepo4 is extremely hard and not very accurate
@@joshwayop5413 Welcome aboard. Yes, I have been searching for a 500A shunt.
My batteries have a Max continuous charging current of 100A, I would think yours do too.
Mine says max 46A
Interesting! Hope you found the problem brother!
That's what I'm saying
Manufacture posted amp draw
Inside refrigerator I'm thinking yours says maybe 3.5amp 120volt. 60 cycle
Your real world numbers 81 watts .675 amps on start up and 75 running watts. .625 amps
Exactly the numbers on the watt meter
I was lights out too. Finally time to get up.
Lol
G Bear, just another learning curve! 🙏🏼🫡
Yep
Sounds like your new batteries shut themselves off to protect them from being overcharged. Now that your charge controller is set properly everything should be fine. The BMS did it's job.
That's what I'm hoping.
that what i do 13.9 and it work well
I'll see tomorrow.
Is 40 amp a battery you have 4 battery in series so that means right now you’re charging the batteries with 10 amp apiece the way it was set up a 98 amp charge to charge the batteries, a 24.5 amp piece they were fine. You have a problem somewhere else.
Welcome aboard. At the higher amps the wires were extremely hot.
I have 4 batteries in parallel, not series.
@@GBear Yes, parallel not series, but they're still right - the amperage going to the batteries will be split between them.
You talk about your 8 gauge wire not being hot anymore, and it was hot before - it's because you're using undersized wire. Best I can tell from a manual PDF I found, that controller will take up to 4awg cable - that would do fine for 90 amps at a few feet. 8awg should have no more than about 40 amps pushed through it.
@@wanderingzythophile9083 8g is rated for 50a, but yes, safety says 75% of max.
We'll, that kept you busy today.
Sure did.
Hopefully it works out. This is why I am afraid to invest in new batteries right now
If I'm not mistaking, it was the BMS doing its job and shutting down to prevent overcharge.
Lead batteries just work . No bms no bs.
Yeah, I had them for 10 years, but the search for more power goes on.
Lifepo4 float charge should be zero. Unlike lead acid they don’t like it. This too can freak out the BMS.
Yes, the Midnite won't shut off float all together, so it's recommended to set it very low instead, so it never reaches that setting.
Elon Musk explained it well. At zero charge percentage the batteries can handle a lot of current for fast charging, the last 20% charge takes as long if not longer than the first 80%. It’s like musical chairs, when the chairs are taken away (no more open slots) the electrons have to bounce around and find an opening (empty chair). Bulk charge for max current then at 80% full charge absorption should kick in at a lesser current then float should be zero because there are no more chairs to fill.
This is very different than lead acid which loves a trickle charge. However, with lifepo4 in real use scenarios the inverter is usually drawing something so as they drain float goes to absorption or even bulk as you draw down the batteries. If you can set float current to zero.
@@GBear Victron! When you go 48v you should consider one. Victron can charge a dead battery. Also stay away from wind turbine to lifepo4 or run it through the lead acid then to a dc to dc charger.
@@WattsinWattsout The Sungoldpower will handle it all just fine. The turbine will go through the Midnite Classic
@@WattsinWattsout I set float to low cutoff voltage, so it can't float.
STUPH WORK HARDER IN HOT WAETHER. I'm IN MOJAVE
Yep, but not that hard.
You will get all the kinks out
Yep, no quitter here.
AIR CONDITIONING DRAINING STUPH. FAN WON'T.
No AC or fans running last night. BMS shut them down because of over amps.