If you take the old chrome muffler and add it to the air intake, cut off a short piece of the 1 inch black tube, insert the muffler add the short piece of tube back and then put on the original black plastic filter it will decrease the combustion roar considerably. I have a heater installed in my camper. With just the chrome muffler on the exhaust, I can hear the roar from 35 feet away. When I put a muffler on both the exhaust and air input, I have to get about 15 feet away begore I hear the combustion sound!
Easy solution to the fuel pump tick, use a Harbor Freight APACHE 1800 Weatherproof Protective Case, install it in the case, drilling holes for the fuel and 12v power. You'll be shocked how quiet it is and it's only $12.99 plus tax!!! I initially wrapped mine in a pool noodle and then used large pipe insulation over that, instant happiness!
Thanks for trouble shooting it! That’s the exact heater I was planning on getting for my overland trailer. The upgrades are almost as much as the entire heater but silence is priceless.
I put a rubber molded case on the fuel pump and made sure it was not touching anything. Also the piece you added is known as a accumulator. The green soft fuel line acts as an accumulator by softening the impact of the pump. I have done this with my heaters and the click of the pump is almost inaudible. The soft rubbery case on the pump is a must. Purchased one of the quite pumps and still havent had to use it.
I use a component style diesel heater. For the pump I got 6" of 3" PVC and two caps. I drilled two tiny holes in the caps for the hoses, wrapped the pump in pipe insulation, glued the PVC shut and sealed the hoses with silicone. It made it practically silent.
Tip, put the aftermarket pump inside a box and use loose soundinsulation like glava or rockwool around the pump. Then you get the ticking down to almost nothing. Important that the pump is not touching anything and just hanging in rubberhoses in each end trough the box.
Watching from Australia great video it will help me with my heater, yes it’s hot here in Australia but cold in the early mornings in the bush. Thanks for taking the time to make this video to help other campers well done mate.
I hope you realize how helpful your videos are to those of us who are not as mechanically inclined as you yourself! QUESTION: Does the newer, quieter muffler change the back pressure on the unit, and if so is that a good or bad thing? Thanks!
I am about to do pretty much the same except for the rubber pump surround as I have just started to use a diesel heater on my live on boat over in the UK, it isn't that loud but was already thinking of changing the fuel pump and adding a fuel filter, will now be adding some sound deadening too thanks to this video. Nice one.
I have this same unit and can say stock, its insanely loud. I would also suggest adding a fuel filter since these vevor units dont come with one installed
Sweet mods i have seen a couple other videos with pumps that were supposed to make less noise and no luck. I bought heater off ebay almost a year ago never got the chance to mess with it think it was like 50 bucks wanted to do some mods to it for this winter will have to try these mods thank you so much!!!!!!
Thanks for making a video showing what seems to be the best way to fix the biggest annoyance on these heaters. I love the heater but the constant ticking noise annoyed me quite a bit.
Cool 6:14 I've never actually seen one of those used. Same as you, I've never seen the one before either. Great video.... Wow. That pump is impressive. I can appreciate all the time and effort that went into making this video 👍 Haha... yes, those original cheap "mufflers" don't' do a lot. They change the pitch and lower the volume a little. I was going to suggest hanging the pump from o-rings or springs... but it seems you have completely solved it without doing that. Have found a lot of the sound is transmitted through the mount ... but again... well done ! Quieting the air / fan would be more of a challenge. Some of that deadening material on the plastic housing may help a little, but I assume most of the noise is the air flowing over the fan itself and the fins on the exchanger. You could spend a lot of time filing and sanding every edge and make a little difference, haha. That being said... That insulated hose probably makes a difference.
My biggest issue was more surprising. I was going to go cold weather camping and was running tests to see what setting I could run the heater at. At 10F, I had to run it on level 8 to get the tent to 50F and maintain it. Any less and the heat loss through the tent walls would drop the temperature almost immediately. I even ran a hose from the tent to the cold side of the heater to try to make the heater more efficient, it just couldn’t keep up with those outside temps.
@@TrailTraveler I experienced a similar thing with the silly test I did recently with my inflatable suit, only I wasn't recirculating at all and I only used a 2kw heater.... and it was -20F ... Not a good situation. At 0F it could keep up no problem, -20 it was rough. This may seem like a stupid question, but Did you have a sealed connection at the air inlet of the heater ? The heater you show is in a case so I picture perhaps a hose to the metal case instead of to the housing of the heater. I'm kinda surprised by yoru results... but with a decent size tent and no insulation I suppose there's a heck of a lot of surface area to lose heat through.
I was using the newer Hcalory heater and the stupid thing is assembled with rivets so, with the time I had, I couldn't drill out all the rivets to make a sleeve inside to get a more sealed system. I was also hoping that letting some of the recirculated air into the case would help keep the diesel from gelling up in the cold. I was thinking that I might be able to tweak some settings and maybe increase the temperature and lower the blower speed. At the end of the day, the lack of insulation in the tent is my weak spot.
@@TrailTraveler They may put something in our diesel here in Calgary, but I didn't have issues with freezing at -40F the past week, so you should be okay. If you can create direct recirculation, I would imagine this makes a huge difference. Sort of like a chain reaction. As the chill comes out of the tent, the air going into the heater will be warmer, meaning the air in the tent gets warmer, and so on. There are plenty of anti gel agents as well as "home remedies" like a few percent acetone, I believe. I want to experimenting with some tent stuff just out of curiosity, but I don't know that I will have time as I have so much on the go.
I'm going to drill out the rivets in the Hcalory case so I can get into it. Then I can seal up the air intake, and do they quieting mods to it. Then I want to figure out how to put it back together with bolts so it is serviceable in the future. Probably will have to use rivnuts.
Great review and modifications. With regards to the muffler, I wonder if you could have filled the old one with wire wool to act as a baffle? Nov 24 update: I bought the HCalory in your original review and tried steel wool in the exhaust. As far as making it quieter, it worked really well. However, I pulled the wool out after about 15 mins use and there was a huge amount of soot building up on the wool, so I removed it. I can only assume that had I left it, there would have eventually been a build up in the burner/glow plug, causing a fault code, but I wasn’t prepared to leave it and see. Lesson learned 👍🏻
New sub. Great video, my current interest is these new diesel heaters even though I live in Florida. I get this feeling the powers gonna go out just when when it gets cold. Thank you so much for all this information. You have saved me a load of time.
Just idea,Swap the pump, Build a "pvc tube case" for it, Spray rubber undercoating inside and outside of the tube case, Wrap the tube case,with that deadening material. And also line the inside heater shell with it lol Sounds extreme, but I think it be quite.....
Si lo que está sonando ahora es el ventilador, igual poniendo uno de levitación magnética mete menos ruido. Los pongo para los ordenadores y se nota bastante.
@@TrailTraveler I had leftovers of sealing self-adhesive tape for drywall profiles and used it. Not sure how it would hold up the temperature but we will see. Mine heater has horizontal layout (not like yours) so I have insulated only the part where tank and pump are located. Also I put the tape between the pump brace and the case.
What a great job you've done for us!! I may have missed it, but does the upgraded muffler have a drain hole, or would it be fine to drill one at the exit end? Thanks!
That's great...I think I'll go with the pump only, it seemed to make the most significant difference. My exhaust would be to the outside anyway so not really a concern. Thanks for posting!
There are apps that can measure sound pressure on a phone. Yeah, they are not going to be super accurate when measured against a real sound meter; however, as a comparison measurement the results would be completely valid. That said, the sound levels measured by a MK I ear are also indicative of performance. Assuming the sound levels were the same on the input, that is also highly indicative of relative performance. Thank you.
Still under $200 sounds like a winner I paid $105 for mine at the begining of the year and i would do the same for that money and comfort to my mini van !
Hi there, I have watched a few of your videos. I was curious out of all the CDH’s you’ve tried, which one would you suggest overall. I would assume accessibility of parts to deaden noise would be a necessity.
My go to is the hCalory SS2. While I did need to do some mods on the case to make it serviceable, the form factor is the best of them all and I have had zero issues with it.
What is the minimum diameter of exhaust pipe, i have a 1/2 inch tube and the 1 inch tube, which comes with heater, fits on it well. Is it a problem that 1 inch tube will decrease to 1/2 inch tube, 1 inch original tube, original muffler and 1/2 inch tube for 1,3 meters.
You could assume that. Granted, I was in my garage with the door open, but as a test, I ran the heater in my garage with the door shut for 6 hours and never had a hit on the CO sensor.
Screw 2 metal brackets to the case and hang the pump between them with 6mm bungee chord and the ticking goes away absorbed by the bungee chord. Better if you put the pump in a small custom built plywood box and suspend the box.
My pump hangs on the underside of my van. I looped the upward facing outlet using a zip tie. I supported the pump on the lower inlet side. Hanging free reduced the ticking
@@TrailTraveler Heh... Yup, it's me ! I've been wondering if this hose would stand up to the temperatures. There are a few cases where it would come in handy. I saw your thumbnail pop up and thought "I should ask this guy" haha.
Hi can you advice my heater is so loud like small jet engine. I can hear it from 15-20 outside . I don't hear the clicking but just noise like jet engine and can't figure that out why
The blowers can get loud on some of them. I haven't had any real issue with that so I don't have a good solution. You might want to try the Chinese Diesel Heater groups on Facebook.
Yes your correct the one whit the fuel tank on top i dont ear it .but ny 2 new ones whit tank on the side are macking more noise ,i will try your stuff an let you know tanks
My comment was deleted. As an experiment i found one inlet silencer was quite noisy so i placed the exhaust silencer on inlet and seemed quieter than the black plastic silencer. Some of them have a roar sound.
My first inlet silencer on van had foam inside, the second i bought was empty. Now third has mesh inside. Mesh one just fitted noisy so put unused exhaust silencer on it.
I saw a video where the guy showed the heater blew out considerably hotter air when the intake was taking in warm air. Why not put a stainless pipe on the intake and then place it side by side touching the exhaust pipe which would warm the intake air ??
A stainless pipe is too bulky for us to take with us everywhere. My simple solution is that I have both hoses next to each other under a moving blanket.
@@TrailTraveler Am i off with using the same flex stainless pipe for intake as used on exhaust and running them side by side touching until the end of the intake where angling it away so as not to melt it? the two pipes coukd be wrapped with aluminum foil or some other heat sinc. Any addituonal heated air going in would benefit as long as the air was clean correct?
@@FountainGuru If you are referring to the intake and exhaust of the diesel motor, this could cause overheating problems. I was referring to the fresh air hoses. I run the hot air hose up to the tent, then another one coming from the tent to the cold side of the heater. The warmer the air going into the heater, the warmer the air coming out will be.
I keep reading that the dampener causes an error after using these heaters for a while with it installed. Could someone please follow up with any experience they have with it? I just got one of those heater the other day, and I want to do all my mods at once, but I don't want something to cause problems down the line if possible so please advise!
This modified heater has been used numerous times and has never thrown an error or had any problem. They come standard on high end heaters like Webasto, so I don't see how it can cause a problem.
@TrailTraveler thank you for responding back so quickly! It's good to know it doesn't cause issues, because I really want to make mine as silent as possible. I was thinking maybe using a dryer hose on the vent may dampen the vent sound a bit as well. (Bound and determined to make that thing as quiet as a soft breeze so it doesn't grate on my nerves at night when camping.)
15:33 That is because it is NOT a muffler but more of a moisture collector and disposer....There is a tiny hole in it to do that....That is why....Hang OUTSIDE....
Same thing, different keywords. Often a parking heater is not a complete all-in-one unit as it is for adding to a van or truck while it is parked. But I don’t see that as being consistently used that way.
Hey Kerry, I just watched your video and I must say that it was really nice and well-made. I was wondering if I could help you edit your highly engaging thumbnails which will help your video to reach to a wider audience .
There are a lot of "diesel heater experts" online and I find most of their "advice" to be useless. I am reviewing the newest Vevor heater now and will be calling out some of their bunk advice in the video.
Cant hear mine at all buy a water proof hand gun case cut the foam to fit pump drill holes. Then replace hard fuel lines with black rubber. The reason Hondas and efi carbs use rubber lines and damper it injector pulse sound will travel in hard line to unit and metal frame . Drilled out big holes in intake put a screen. Ran exhaust into the truck exhaust can't hear nothing and truck starts better on cold mornings
Very true, and when I got that heater, I had no idea that I would be making a video on how to quiet it down, so I didn't have a meter. For this year's videos, I bought one and use it in the heater reviews I did.
Thank you, Sir💕💕💕💕 So is normal dad bad nose of the fuel pump. maybe I change it a day, But for now is ok. I turn it off when I go to my sleeping bag♥♥ I pay that price to buy a good electric blanket.
I've found that letting the pump do the priming makes the pump much louder until it prematurely dies. Getting the fuel to the pump via gravity or whatever means keeps a new pump quiet and running a very long time. Once i got mine dialed in last winter, it was smooth and quiet running, non-stop, day and night. Oh, i connected a 30 gallong fuel tank, so i didn't have to keep refilling every day. And bubbles cause death by cloging the burn chamber with soot. Avoid connector if possible.
@northseacowboy I meant any connectors in general; along the fuel line path. I had trouble keeping mine air tight. So I just went straight hose from the tank to the pump. No more bubbles after that. Kept me warm all last season.
@deleteduser3749 thanks so much for your prompt reply. I just bought a sunster 8kw and want to make the necessary changes while I can. This is what I love about UA-cam, learning and sharing ideas. All the best to you.
I honestly believe some people are just extremely sound sensitive. I have spent several nights in the middle of no where with one below me in my RTT. I find the "sound" from diesels pretty much white noise and sleep like a baby.
I have heard diesel heaters that sound like a HUGE metronome and others I can barely hear. You likely have one of the quiet ones. Some of these puppies will definitely keep you up at night.
I did all these modifications but I’m having a problem with mine…. It turns on and runs for about 2 minutes and shuts down I have it connected to a Anker 535 power station
The only power stations I have used that reliably power the diesel heaters from the DC port are Bluetties. I have to use the AC plug on all of the other ones.
Umm I literally just bought an hcal heater and hooked it up and ran it today and the only noise that comes out of that machine after the startup fuel priming is the intake noise from the air going into the burner. If the intake hole was slightly larger or you used a cone-shaped intake tube that went from larger to smaller it would all but eliminate all the noise....
For $90 it should be quieter! I just made sure my pump wasn't touching the sides (that's half the problem) and just wrapped it with insulation and I don't hear it at all.
90 is cheap. That's why it's simple, and a bit noisy. I don't ever remember being able to buy anything like this 20-30 years ago for this kind of money.
The pump ticking noise is loudest in startup mode. Once it's opened up to full flow the ticking is dramatically reduced. The solution obviously escaped you. Make silicone putty (silicone and cornstarch) and wrap the pump with it. Sound Gone! Use 10 inches of 1 inch fibre glass hot water pipe insulation material for the exhaust. Its yellow stiff insulation with aluminum paper covering. Guess what? Sound gone! Total cost? maybe $10 if you need to buy a full 3ft length. Your welcome!
The Vevor unit (including their newest one I am testing now) have the loudest pumps of any units we have tested. The newest one, the pump is 72dB while running on Level 3. That's a LOT of noise to try to cut down. I've never heard of making a putty like that. Can you give me a link to the silicone to use, I want to try that.
@@chrome98 first off, I was in a garage with the door open. Second, I was monitoring the CO levels and it was always safe. I’ve even ran a heater in the garage with the door closed for six hours to test the CO levels and they stayed well into the safe zone.
@@TrailTraveler ROFLMAO! It's funny how people think. I can't see the USA or Canada actually approving these things that are made in China. Unless they prove to actually be safe.
It’s just the nature of the pumps. It is a metal piston slamming up against the metal sleeve. Better pumps are designed to minimize or eliminate the ticking sound.
If you take the old chrome muffler and add it to the air intake, cut off a short piece of the 1 inch black tube, insert the muffler add the short piece of tube back and then put on the original black plastic filter it will decrease the combustion roar considerably. I have a heater installed in my camper. With just the chrome muffler on the exhaust, I can hear the roar from 35 feet away. When I put a muffler on both the exhaust and air input, I have to get about 15 feet away begore I hear the combustion sound!
I’ll give that a try, thanks
Upload on you tube now! 😉
Straight up,
One of the best ‘quiet down your diesel heater videos’ that there is on UA-cam.
Much appreciated
Easy solution to the fuel pump tick, use a Harbor Freight APACHE 1800 Weatherproof Protective Case, install it in the case, drilling holes for the fuel and 12v power. You'll be shocked how quiet it is and it's only $12.99 plus tax!!! I initially wrapped mine in a pool noodle and then used large pipe insulation over that, instant happiness!
Thanks for trouble shooting it! That’s the exact heater I was planning on getting for my overland trailer. The upgrades are almost as much as the entire heater but silence is priceless.
I put a rubber molded case on the fuel pump and made sure it was not touching anything. Also the piece you added is known as a accumulator. The green soft fuel line acts as an accumulator by softening the impact of the pump. I have done this with my heaters and the click of the pump is almost inaudible. The soft rubbery case on the pump is a must. Purchased one of the quite pumps and still havent had to use it.
I looked for an accumulator, but only found $200. versions; do you have a link for one for this heater? Thanks!
Great job, Kerry. I just ordered those parts to upgrade mine. Appreciate you being the test pilot on this.
I use a component style diesel heater. For the pump I got 6" of 3" PVC and two caps. I drilled two tiny holes in the caps for the hoses, wrapped the pump in pipe insulation, glued the PVC shut and sealed the hoses with silicone. It made it practically silent.
Well done. Those will be great improvements I'll be doing.
Tip, put the aftermarket pump inside a box and use loose soundinsulation like glava or rockwool around the pump. Then you get the ticking down to almost nothing. Important that the pump is not touching anything and just hanging in rubberhoses in each end trough the box.
Watching from Australia great video it will help me with my heater, yes it’s hot here in Australia but cold in the early mornings in the bush. Thanks for taking the time to make this video to help other campers well done mate.
I hope you realize how helpful your videos are to those of us who are not as mechanically inclined as you yourself! QUESTION: Does the newer, quieter muffler change the back pressure on the unit, and if so is that a good or bad thing? Thanks!
If it does, I haven’t seen any difference in performance or efficiency
@@TrailTraveler Thank you.
Greetings: Increasing the back pressure ( >20%) may increase combustion temp.
I am about to do pretty much the same except for the rubber pump surround as I have just started to use a diesel heater on my live on boat over in the UK, it isn't that loud but was already thinking of changing the fuel pump and adding a fuel filter, will now be adding some sound deadening too thanks to this video.
Nice one.
Great experiments ! 🎉
Thank you for this! I have a very low tolerance for repetitive noise like the ticking sound I could hear in all the videos I’ve seen on these heaters.
Same, I cannot stand the ticking noise. The LF Bros N2 Pro which we reviewed recently has absolutely ZERO pump noise. I absolutely love it.
@ great, will check that out as well!
Thanks for the tips, I just made the purchase for the Vevor and the mods.
Thanx i orderd my heater today en saved your video to make my heater quiter later on 😊
Great video with a lot of useful info.
I have this same unit and can say stock, its insanely loud. I would also suggest adding a fuel filter since these vevor units dont come with one installed
Sweet mods i have seen a couple other videos with pumps that were supposed to make less noise and no luck. I bought heater off ebay almost a year ago never got the chance to mess with it think it was like 50 bucks wanted to do some mods to it for this winter will have to try these mods thank you so much!!!!!!
Thanks for making a video showing what seems to be the best way to fix the biggest annoyance on these heaters. I love the heater but the constant ticking noise annoyed me quite a bit.
Perfect, You just SOLD me. I'm getting it for my transport truck. The vultures at espar want to charge me $1600... CRAZY
Cool 6:14 I've never actually seen one of those used. Same as you, I've never seen the one before either. Great video....
Wow. That pump is impressive. I can appreciate all the time and effort that went into making this video 👍
Haha... yes, those original cheap "mufflers" don't' do a lot. They change the pitch and lower the volume a little.
I was going to suggest hanging the pump from o-rings or springs... but it seems you have completely solved it without doing that. Have found a lot of the sound is transmitted through the mount ... but again... well done !
Quieting the air / fan would be more of a challenge. Some of that deadening material on the plastic housing may help a little, but I assume most of the noise is the air flowing over the fan itself and the fins on the exchanger. You could spend a lot of time filing and sanding every edge and make a little difference, haha. That being said... That insulated hose probably makes a difference.
My biggest issue was more surprising. I was going to go cold weather camping and was running tests to see what setting I could run the heater at. At 10F, I had to run it on level 8 to get the tent to 50F and maintain it. Any less and the heat loss through the tent walls would drop the temperature almost immediately. I even ran a hose from the tent to the cold side of the heater to try to make the heater more efficient, it just couldn’t keep up with those outside temps.
@@TrailTraveler I experienced a similar thing with the silly test I did recently with my inflatable suit, only I wasn't recirculating at all and I only used a 2kw heater.... and it was -20F ... Not a good situation. At 0F it could keep up no problem, -20 it was rough.
This may seem like a stupid question, but Did you have a sealed connection at the air inlet of the heater ? The heater you show is in a case so I picture perhaps a hose to the metal case instead of to the housing of the heater. I'm kinda surprised by yoru results... but with a decent size tent and no insulation I suppose there's a heck of a lot of surface area to lose heat through.
I was using the newer Hcalory heater and the stupid thing is assembled with rivets so, with the time I had, I couldn't drill out all the rivets to make a sleeve inside to get a more sealed system. I was also hoping that letting some of the recirculated air into the case would help keep the diesel from gelling up in the cold. I was thinking that I might be able to tweak some settings and maybe increase the temperature and lower the blower speed. At the end of the day, the lack of insulation in the tent is my weak spot.
@@TrailTraveler They may put something in our diesel here in Calgary, but I didn't have issues with freezing at -40F the past week, so you should be okay.
If you can create direct recirculation, I would imagine this makes a huge difference. Sort of like a chain reaction. As the chill comes out of the tent, the air going into the heater will be warmer, meaning the air in the tent gets warmer, and so on. There are plenty of anti gel agents as well as "home remedies" like a few percent acetone, I believe.
I want to experimenting with some tent stuff just out of curiosity, but I don't know that I will have time as I have so much on the go.
I'm going to drill out the rivets in the Hcalory case so I can get into it. Then I can seal up the air intake, and do they quieting mods to it. Then I want to figure out how to put it back together with bolts so it is serviceable in the future. Probably will have to use rivnuts.
Great review and modifications. With regards to the muffler, I wonder if you could have filled the old one with wire wool to act as a baffle?
Nov 24 update: I bought the HCalory in your original review and tried steel wool in the exhaust. As far as making it quieter, it worked really well. However, I pulled the wool out after about 15 mins use and there was a huge amount of soot building up on the wool, so I removed it. I can only assume that had I left it, there would have eventually been a build up in the burner/glow plug, causing a fault code, but I wasn’t prepared to leave it and see. Lesson learned 👍🏻
I had to go thru 6 bad sites to get to this the best one
😃
This needs to pop up as the first thing when you search for diesel heaters !!
I'll try enclosing pump in a piece of pool-noodle and see what happens. Great video Thanks!
This is great, appreciate the time money and effort. Top bloke.
New sub. Great video, my current interest is these new diesel heaters even though I live in Florida. I get this feeling the powers gonna go out just when when it gets cold. Thank you so much for all this information. You have saved me a load of time.
Just idea,Swap the pump, Build a "pvc tube case" for it, Spray rubber undercoating inside and outside of the tube case, Wrap the tube case,with that deadening material. And also line the inside heater shell with it lol Sounds extreme, but I think it be quite.....
Si lo que está sonando ahora es el ventilador, igual poniendo uno de levitación magnética mete menos ruido. Los pongo para los ordenadores y se nota bastante.
Thanks i will be adding a heater to my list and things to up grade it very well done
good job , not quitting till its done rite
Thanks for your video, sound insulation on the case have worked for me!
Awesome to hear! What kind of insulation did you end up using?
@@TrailTraveler I had leftovers of sealing self-adhesive tape for drywall profiles and used it. Not sure how it would hold up the temperature but we will see. Mine heater has horizontal layout (not like yours) so I have insulated only the part where tank and pump are located. Also I put the tape between the pump brace and the case.
Thanks great video keep up the good work.
Gotta love the PEOPLEs comments! We all come together and solve our problems
What a great job you've done for us!!
I may have missed it, but does the upgraded muffler have a drain hole, or would it be fine to drill one at the exit end? Thanks!
It does not, I just always make sure its pointing down so I don't have to worry about it
Great video! Really informative.
That's great...I think I'll go with the pump only, it seemed to make the most significant difference. My exhaust would be to the outside anyway so not really a concern. Thanks for posting!
a D5 pump is quiet and also powerful, this is why this industrial pump is popular for custom pc cooling too..
Great video. Very informative 🇬🇧👌
nice job. great useful vid
There are apps that can measure sound pressure on a phone. Yeah, they are not going to be super accurate when measured against a real sound meter; however, as a comparison measurement the results would be completely valid.
That said, the sound levels measured by a MK I ear are also indicative of performance. Assuming the sound levels were the same on the input, that is also highly indicative of relative performance.
Thank you.
Still under $200 sounds like a winner I paid $105 for mine at the begining of the year and i would do the same for that money and comfort to my mini van !
Hi there, I have watched a few of your videos. I was curious out of all the CDH’s you’ve tried, which one would you suggest overall. I would assume accessibility of parts to deaden noise would be a necessity.
My go to is the hCalory SS2. While I did need to do some mods on the case to make it serviceable, the form factor is the best of them all and I have had zero issues with it.
Way to go, thanks Man.
Get some 2 inch kingspan or cellotex insulation and make a drop over box with the obvious cutouts required.
What is the minimum diameter of exhaust pipe, i have a 1/2 inch tube and the 1 inch tube, which comes with heater, fits on it well. Is it a problem that 1 inch tube will decrease to 1/2 inch tube, 1 inch original tube, original muffler and 1/2 inch tube for 1,3 meters.
@@lactobatsill restricting the exhaust to a smaller size could create too much back pressure and cause it to overheat or not run right
@@TrailTraveler thank you
A DB indicator would be great for comparison, for each new add on ps great vid thanks
Can we assume that the exhaust does not let any bad gases into your room.
You could assume that. Granted, I was in my garage with the door open, but as a test, I ran the heater in my garage with the door shut for 6 hours and never had a hit on the CO sensor.
Thank you ❤
Screw 2 metal brackets to the case and hang the pump between them with 6mm bungee chord and the ticking goes away absorbed by the bungee chord. Better if you put the pump in a small custom built plywood box and suspend the box.
Tried suspending it, didn't help. That pump was just stupid loud.
My pump hangs on the underside of my van. I looped the upward facing outlet using a zip tie. I supported the pump on the lower inlet side. Hanging free reduced the ticking
Might'nt a preliminary comment have noted that all the sound levels were going to be somewhat louder because the outer housing is off?
Hello sir. Where do you get the long hose seen in your thumbnail and what is it called ? I have been looking for something like this.
Link is in the description
@@TrailTraveler I apologize... I was rushed ... I should have looked. Thank you.
Just noticed your username, I have been watching your videos lately. Lots of great info.
@@TrailTraveler Heh... Yup, it's me !
I've been wondering if this hose would stand up to the temperatures. There are a few cases where it would come in handy. I saw your thumbnail pop up and thought "I should ask this guy" haha.
I probably have 30 hours on it and most on level 8
Any chance you could send me Amazon links to the parts needed? Thank you so much! Great job! Great review!
They are all in the video description
Hi can you advice my heater is so loud like small jet engine. I can hear it from 15-20 outside . I don't hear the clicking but just noise like jet engine and can't figure that out why
The blowers can get loud on some of them. I haven't had any real issue with that so I don't have a good solution. You might want to try the Chinese Diesel Heater groups on Facebook.
Great Job.⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Put the cover back at same time you try ,mite be better?
The cheap, thin metal of the case actually amplifies the sound. That's why I ended up putting sound insulation inside the case.
@@TrailTravelerDid it make a difference?
And by how much? Oh, you don’t have a meter!
Yes your correct the one whit the fuel tank on top i dont ear it .but ny 2 new ones whit tank on the side are macking more noise ,i will try your stuff an let you know tanks
Thanks for the info
My comment was deleted. As an experiment i found one inlet silencer was quite noisy so i placed the exhaust silencer on inlet and seemed quieter than the black plastic silencer. Some of them have a roar sound.
My first inlet silencer on van had foam inside, the second i bought was empty. Now third has mesh inside. Mesh one just fitted noisy so put unused exhaust silencer on it.
I saw a video where the guy showed the heater blew out considerably hotter air when the intake was taking in warm air. Why not put a stainless pipe on the intake and then place it side by side touching the exhaust pipe which would warm the intake air ??
A stainless pipe is too bulky for us to take with us everywhere. My simple solution is that I have both hoses next to each other under a moving blanket.
@@TrailTraveler It’s the same size as the current flexible intake.
@@FountainGuru Got a link?
@@TrailTraveler Am i off with using the same flex stainless pipe for intake as used on exhaust and running them side by side touching until the end of the intake where angling it away so as not to melt it? the two pipes coukd be wrapped with aluminum foil or some other heat sinc. Any addituonal heated air going in would benefit as long as the air was clean correct?
@@FountainGuru If you are referring to the intake and exhaust of the diesel motor, this could cause overheating problems. I was referring to the fresh air hoses. I run the hot air hose up to the tent, then another one coming from the tent to the cold side of the heater. The warmer the air going into the heater, the warmer the air coming out will be.
I keep reading that the dampener causes an error after using these heaters for a while with it installed. Could someone please follow up with any experience they have with it? I just got one of those heater the other day, and I want to do all my mods at once, but I don't want something to cause problems down the line if possible so please advise!
This modified heater has been used numerous times and has never thrown an error or had any problem. They come standard on high end heaters like Webasto, so I don't see how it can cause a problem.
@TrailTraveler thank you for responding back so quickly! It's good to know it doesn't cause issues, because I really want to make mine as silent as possible. I was thinking maybe using a dryer hose on the vent may dampen the vent sound a bit as well. (Bound and determined to make that thing as quiet as a soft breeze so it doesn't grate on my nerves at night when camping.)
Thankyou!
15:33 That is because it is NOT a muffler but more of a moisture collector and disposer....There is a tiny hole in it to do that....That is why....Hang OUTSIDE....
Can somebody explain the concept of parking heater vs air heater i see this company has shown on their sight.
Same thing, different keywords. Often a parking heater is not a complete all-in-one unit as it is for adding to a van or truck while it is parked. But I don’t see that as being consistently used that way.
Thanks for time n info, wondering if maybe just use spray foam ?
Hey Kerry, I just watched your video and I must say that it was really nice and well-made. I was wondering if I could help you edit your highly engaging thumbnails which will help your video to reach to a wider audience .
Give me a quote, email is on about page
I have 3 diesel heather and i dont hear the pump at all, just the fans ?????
@@Danthemilkman-l8f there are quiet ones and loud ones. We also have some with silent fuel pumps, but the cheaper ones tend to be abnoxiously loud
great job
How can you do a sound test without a way to measure?
You use your ears. For this year’s videos, we have a sound meter
Greta video thank you
big thank you Sir
We're do you find that long ducting tube
Added link in description
If you want to quiet the Fan you might want to get a NF series Noctua quiet fan
thank you
nice that you tried that thing that "looked" good [thank you, we dont have to] :)
There are a lot of "diesel heater experts" online and I find most of their "advice" to be useless. I am reviewing the newest Vevor heater now and will be calling out some of their bunk advice in the video.
outstading
Awesome
Perfect😊!
thank you
db measurement would have been nice though
I tried to order a meter but you can’t get anything with any accuracy for under $2,500. The cheap stuff on Amazon is wildly off.
Cant hear mine at all buy a water proof hand gun case cut the foam to fit pump drill holes. Then replace hard fuel lines with black rubber. The reason Hondas and efi carbs use rubber lines and damper it injector pulse sound will travel in hard line to unit and metal frame . Drilled out big holes in intake put a screen. Ran exhaust into the truck exhaust can't hear nothing and truck starts better on cold mornings
Damper kit?
Yes - amzn.to/3Ui6MmO
Nice job getting your heater quieter the only thing someone needs to put together is a brushless fan motor
Really hard to measure the difference in sound by ear. A calibrated dB meter is almost necessary. Interesting nevertheless.
Very true, and when I got that heater, I had no idea that I would be making a video on how to quiet it down, so I didn't have a meter. For this year's videos, I bought one and use it in the heater reviews I did.
@@TrailTraveler I will check those out. Thanks.
Thank you, Sir💕💕💕💕
So is normal dad bad nose of the fuel pump.
maybe I change it a day, But for now is ok. I turn it off when I go to my sleeping bag♥♥
I pay that price to buy a good electric blanket.
I've found that letting the pump do the priming makes the pump much louder until it prematurely dies. Getting the fuel to the pump via gravity or whatever means keeps a new pump quiet and running a very long time. Once i got mine dialed in last winter, it was smooth and quiet running, non-stop, day and night. Oh, i connected a 30 gallong fuel tank, so i didn't have to keep refilling every day.
And bubbles cause death by cloging the burn chamber with soot. Avoid connector if possible.
Avoid what connector?
I like your large tank idea, good thinking.
@northseacowboy I meant any connectors in general; along the fuel line path. I had trouble keeping mine air tight. So I just went straight hose from the tank to the pump. No more bubbles after that. Kept me warm all last season.
@deleteduser3749 thanks so much for your prompt reply.
I just bought a sunster 8kw and want to make the necessary changes while I can.
This is what I love about UA-cam, learning and sharing ideas.
All the best to you.
If you sleep with a fan or like a ticking background sound, it’ll knock you right out.
Have you had any problems with the unit when at altitude (~10,000)?
Haven’t been able to go that high yet, too much snow
I live at 10,000 no problem
I honestly believe some people are just extremely sound sensitive. I have spent several nights in the middle of no where with one below me in my RTT. I find the "sound" from diesels pretty much white noise and sleep like a baby.
The sound of the blower puts me right to sleep, but the tick of the fuel pump was driving me insane
I have heard diesel heaters that sound like a HUGE metronome and others I can barely hear. You likely have one of the quiet ones. Some of these puppies will definitely keep you up at night.
I did all these modifications but I’m having a problem with mine…. It turns on and runs for about 2 minutes and shuts down
I have it connected to a
Anker 535 power station
It’s very possible that the power draw is too much for the DC port on the Anker. Use the AC plug and it should work fine
@@TrailTraveler yea I think your right…. I just rechecked the specs and saw the DC port is rated at 120W max
The only power stations I have used that reliably power the diesel heaters from the DC port are Bluetties. I have to use the AC plug on all of the other ones.
@@TrailTraveler can I just get a AC power cord and just slice it in .? Or do I have to do anything special ?
Some heaters come with a 110v power supply. If your's didn't, then something like this will work: amzn.to/3XNihUj
Umm I literally just bought an hcal heater and hooked it up and ran it today and the only noise that comes out of that machine after the startup fuel priming is the intake noise from the air going into the burner. If the intake hole was slightly larger or you used a cone-shaped intake tube that went from larger to smaller it would all but eliminate all the noise....
You are 🏆🏆🏆🏆🏆🏆🏆✝️
For $90 it should be quieter!
I just made sure my pump wasn't touching the sides (that's half the problem) and just wrapped it with insulation and I don't hear it at all.
90 is cheap. That's why it's simple, and a bit noisy. I don't ever remember being able to buy anything like this 20-30 years ago for this kind of money.
The pump ticking noise is loudest in startup mode. Once it's opened up to full flow the ticking is dramatically reduced. The solution obviously escaped you. Make silicone putty (silicone and cornstarch) and wrap the pump with it.
Sound Gone!
Use 10 inches of 1 inch fibre glass hot water pipe insulation material for the exhaust. Its yellow stiff insulation with aluminum paper covering. Guess what?
Sound gone!
Total cost? maybe $10 if you need to buy a full 3ft length. Your welcome!
The Vevor unit (including their newest one I am testing now) have the loudest pumps of any units we have tested. The newest one, the pump is 72dB while running on Level 3. That's a LOT of noise to try to cut down. I've never heard of making a putty like that. Can you give me a link to the silicone to use, I want to try that.
Looks very dangerous to me - pumping the burner exhaust into the room.
@@chrome98 first off, I was in a garage with the door open. Second, I was monitoring the CO levels and it was always safe. I’ve even ran a heater in the garage with the door closed for six hours to test the CO levels and they stayed well into the safe zone.
Isn't it no longer ul approved after you modified must be ul approved again. Law suits baby.
You are making a huge assumption that it was UL approved in the first place. Who is going to sue who?
@@TrailTraveler ROFLMAO!
It's funny how people think.
I can't see the USA or Canada actually approving these things that are made in China.
Unless they prove to actually be safe.
I saw another guy use Biodiesel. Can you do an autopsy on the old pump to see what was making that ticking
It’s just the nature of the pumps. It is a metal piston slamming up against the metal sleeve. Better pumps are designed to minimize or eliminate the ticking sound.
@@TrailTraveler Ah! So metal hitting metal!??? I guess those aren't long lived then.
Good to know so as to order one to keep in stock, just in case.
If l was camping with this setup. I would just pop in some 99 cent ear plugs and call it a restful night. But that’s just me. 😊
Just make sure you let me know where you're gonna be so I ain't there. 😊
There are a few ways to upgrade the blower motor too.
Usually loudest is the fan itself., along with hard mounting that transfer the vibration to the case. Any ideas for those?
Same parts on eBay or AliExpress for a fraction of the Amazon price tag.
Replacing original fan with some good low noise PC fan.