Take the radiator outside, burn all that paint off and have it work, instead of looking pretty. Awesome build quality and the efficacy of the heater was very impressive.
I posted a video about this type of heat recovery from exhaust gases. But I used exhaust gas to water to recover the lost heat. I used two vw Audi EGR units inline with each other. Then pumped the water around the system to a double central heating radiator. The recovery rate was very efficient. Lots of heat in the radiator and the same hot air the heater normally produces.
One tip for you. Put the radiator below the Vevor heater. The condensation can't go upwards. And the second tip, intake should be from the outside in not the opposite, now as it is it creates negative pressure inside and sucks the cold air from every little crevices. And the third tip, try not to use radiator but replace it with a long pipe in " S " from top to the bottom. The exhaust temp with 6m long pipe should be around 20c and you don't have to worry about condensation and it is also simple and fast to clean.
The intake being indoors is causing a negative pressure in the building so air is being replaced through all the little crevices. If the intake comes from the outside you should see a small increase in room temp, I’d also remove the paint from the radiator, it’s probably acting like a thin amount of insulation and not “radiating” heat as efficiently as it could as well as smelling bad. In theory you could season it like a cast iron pan to prevent rust from forming on the bare metal as quickly.
@@speedandengineeringConsider what they do with "Monitor" heaters. They use a longer (and smaller) intake pipe within a larger exhause pipe. This heats the intake air slightly (and slightly cools the exhaust). I'll try to attach a photo. Same hole, no additional drilling.
@@speedandengineering if your talking about the combustion intake, sure. if you mean the air intake, i would keep that inside recirculating the air to get more heat from the heater. I've got one too heating our living room and the first year i had setup to heat cold air from the outside and let me tell you trying to heat -20 to -30 celsius is not cost effective, you have to run at a high setting for it to get some good heat resulting in high fuel consumption. i have now made it recirculating the air from inside and it is much better, setting 1 with altitude mode on which slows the pump more reducing fuel consumption. im not sure what OP is on about, to create negative pressure it would have to be pulling the air out of the room and that tiny combustion air intake is not gonna cause any negative pressure.
I've seen people do this with much larger radiators. That would probably help with the high surface temperature if the energy had a larger surface to dissipate from.
❤ I really love your water trap. I've made the radiator for exhaust fumes and air output is at room temperature. I'm not been able to understand how to calculate watts of the recovered heat
Thanks buddy! Easiest way to find the wattage is probably to measure surface tempeature of your radiator, measure its dimensions and measure room temperature. -Then; search for a "radiator heat transfer calculator" on the interwebs :-)
I used a Renault alloy intercooler with 2 fans. I tested flat-out without fans fitted first, and it was cool to the touch at the outlet. The 2 fans are speed-controlled, so they are just very slow as needed.
Thanks! I've used Mipa products before, I can get a hold of it :-) Do you know if it needs to be post-cured? - some of the areas on the radiator never gets warm.
0:08 ~ that looks like a vintage extractor fan with an iris shutter, interesting to see that it wasn’t “just” the Xpleair fan company in 🇬🇧 that came-up with that design of shutter, now I want you to film turning it on to confirm that
Ya , how many people have the tools you do? Not many. I do have the welding equipment , but thats about it. Instead of an old radiator , I decided to build a sand battery. I ordered a new 30 pound propane tank. That will be my heat capture device , and it's much easer to build , and it captures way more heat. The rest of your build is very nice.
Meh, most of the tools were used för convienience rather than neccissity :-) Sand battery can perhaps be nice for some applications. However, it would be counter-productive for me. I only want heating when I'm inside the garage, and then I want it a quick as possible.
@@speedandengineering on the hot spot on your radiator where the paint is burning . I had an old electric radiator fan on an old pickup of mine it had a 12volt in to the temp controller, a knob to adjust desired triggered temp and the 12 volt out went to the fan motor. the temp probe was on a 15" lead that was wire tied to the radiator. when the probe hit the desired set point, the fan turns on by itself.
I have my exhaust in a long repeating S curve , It is encased in a PC tower shaped box, my temp probe is taped to the exhaust pipe, I have an old 12 volt output inverter from a portable radio wired to the temp probe 12 in, and the 12 volt out from the probe goes to the 12volt in on the fan thats mounted to a hole in the side of the box.The ground from the inverter just goes to the ground on the fan. When my heater kicks in the probe closes the contacts and the fan turns on, when the exhaust temp goes below the set point, the fan shuts off. I just built my first prototype 2 nights ago and am waiting for supplies to build the hopefully final design.
Very cool set up you could improve on it if you run the intake for the combustion chamber to outside air. how it set up your pulling heated air and dumping it out of the exhaust
@ it doesn’t matter if the actual combustion temperature is lower you’re still dumping tons of air that you’re heating up and wasting energy, pushing it outside through the exhaust system
I will look into this. Could be an easy fix, thanks! However, I did "prime" the water trap off camera with a syringe, so no fumes should be able to escape.
GREAT ATTENTION TO DETAIL, BUT- WOULD LOVE CALCULATIONS AND TEMP READINGS - THAT I CAN SEE ! NEEDS TO BE LARGE FIGURES ,BLACK TYPE ON WHITE BACKGROUND AND INLET AND OTLET TEMPS , WHATS THE OUTDOOR EXHAUST TEMP- IF ITS HIGH, YOU CAN ADD MORE RECOVERY...
Ye, this is a valid opinion. 105 W is a low estimate. Only counting convection on the front side. Not counting radiation nor convection on the rear. If I had to guess, around 200 W. Roughly +10 % total power output.
100watts is practically nothing in the world of heating. It's basically adding a person sitting in a chair to the room. You'd get a better bump by adding an insulated fresh air intake for combustion.
100 W was a low estimate, only counting convection from the front. There is also convection from the rear and radiant heating. If I had to guess, perhaps double, around 200 W. And yes, you are right, it isn't taking anyones breath away. But it is something. For someone who wants abit more performance and have the materials (not worth spending money on) it is an option.
I'm not smart enough to check the math on the radiator heat output but if it is indeed only around 100w, then that is absolutely not worth the hassle. A single candle puts out almost 100w.
I hear you, this is a valid perspective, I was torn on how to look at it. Compounding over time 105 W is enough to heat 90 kg of air (weight of the air in the garage) 5 °C during 1.5 hours, length of the test. (Theory only) As much heat as a candle, sure; but it is also as much heat as a small radiator on steroids. 112 °C surface temp, normal radiator temps are like 60 °C-ish? 100 W is a low estimate, only counting convection on the front side. There is also convection of the rear, as well as radiant heating. At the end of the day, for someone running one of these and are lacking a bit of performance, its an option to get alittle bit more out of it.
Meh, most of the materials are offcuts from previous projects. But sure, would cost abit to buy all the materials since you would have to stick to standard lengths etc. Biggest cost-drivers were peripherals such as CO-alarm (off camera), 12 V power supply, T-duct in the tumbnail etc.
I plan on doing this and having both run through a copper manifold that is submerged in a container of sand. For a sand heat battery. Possibly with exhaust geat recovery being one tank on one side of the room and the heated air going through another tank on the opposite side.
Take the radiator outside, burn all that paint off and have it work, instead of looking pretty. Awesome build quality and the efficacy of the heater was very impressive.
You are 100 % right, I should, and I will do it as soon as I find some time.
Thanks for the kind words!
After getting rid of the white paint, try putting on flat black high heat paint like used on stoves.
I posted a video about this type of heat recovery from exhaust gases. But I used exhaust gas to water to recover the lost heat. I used two vw Audi EGR units inline with each other. Then pumped the water around the system to a double central heating radiator. The recovery rate was very efficient. Lots of heat in the radiator and the same hot air the heater normally produces.
One tip for you. Put the radiator below the Vevor heater. The condensation can't go upwards. And the second tip, intake should be from the outside in not the opposite, now as it is it creates negative pressure inside and sucks the cold air from every little crevices. And the third tip, try not to use radiator but replace it with a long pipe in " S " from top to the bottom. The exhaust temp with 6m long pipe should be around 20c and you don't have to worry about condensation and it is also simple and fast to clean.
The intake being indoors is causing a negative pressure in the building so air is being replaced through all the little crevices. If the intake comes from the outside you should see a small increase in room temp, I’d also remove the paint from the radiator, it’s probably acting like a thin amount of insulation and not “radiating” heat as efficiently as it could as well as smelling bad. In theory you could season it like a cast iron pan to prevent rust from forming on the bare metal as quickly.
I think he should leave it like it is but possibly put the combustion intake outside so it matches the exhaust pipe also venting outside.
Intake is a good idea, I just don't have a good way of realizing it.
Any suggestions? I rather not put the intake right next to the exhaust.
@@speedandengineeringConsider what they do with "Monitor" heaters. They use a longer (and smaller) intake pipe within a larger exhause pipe. This heats the intake air slightly (and slightly cools the exhaust). I'll try to attach a photo. Same hole, no additional drilling.
@@speedandengineering if your talking about the combustion intake, sure. if you mean the air intake, i would keep that inside recirculating the air to get more heat from the heater. I've got one too heating our living room and the first year i had setup to heat cold air from the outside and let me tell you trying to heat -20 to -30 celsius is not cost effective, you have to run at a high setting for it to get some good heat resulting in high fuel consumption. i have now made it recirculating the air from inside and it is much better, setting 1 with altitude mode on which slows the pump more reducing fuel consumption. im not sure what OP is on about, to create negative pressure it would have to be pulling the air out of the room and that tiny combustion air intake is not gonna cause any negative pressure.
Small space , just the blowing air from the unit is enough.
I've seen people do this with much larger radiators. That would probably help with the high surface temperature if the energy had a larger surface to dissipate from.
Probably would help alittle bit (y)
Nice fabrication work, those motorcycles look very pampered👍!
Thanks alot.
Hehe ye, you betcha'! 😁
❤ I really love your water trap.
I've made the radiator for exhaust fumes and air output is at room temperature.
I'm not been able to understand how to calculate watts of the recovered heat
Thanks buddy!
Easiest way to find the wattage is probably to measure surface tempeature of your radiator, measure its dimensions and measure room temperature.
-Then; search for a "radiator heat transfer calculator" on the interwebs :-)
I used a Renault alloy intercooler with 2 fans. I tested flat-out without fans fitted first, and it was cool to the touch at the outlet. The 2 fans are speed-controlled, so they are just very slow as needed.
Hehe nice!
An intercooler is made for high gas flow as well, probably suits this application pretty well 👍
Of you can get it, use Mipa High Heat Paint, it is one of the best. Really nice Idea and nicely executed!
Thanks!
I've used Mipa products before, I can get a hold of it :-)
Do you know if it needs to be post-cured? - some of the areas on the radiator never gets warm.
0:08 ~ that looks like a vintage extractor fan with an iris shutter, interesting to see that it wasn’t “just” the Xpleair fan company in 🇬🇧 that came-up with that design of shutter, now I want you to film turning it on to confirm that
Ya , how many people have the tools you do?
Not many. I do have the welding equipment , but thats about it.
Instead of an old radiator , I decided to build a sand battery. I ordered a new 30 pound propane tank.
That will be my heat capture device , and it's much easer to build , and it captures way more heat.
The rest of your build is very nice.
Meh, most of the tools were used för convienience rather than neccissity :-)
Sand battery can perhaps be nice for some applications. However, it would be counter-productive for me. I only want heating when I'm inside the garage, and then I want it a quick as possible.
@@speedandengineering
I will be using it to help heat my damp basement.
The sand battery is the most sound method for me.
Thanks.
So you have a welder but can't buy rivet gun for 20 dollars? There is nothing crazy he used to build this, pretty basic stuff
@@maxsmith3193
HEY MAX , WHO ASKED YOUR OPINION ?
I do have a rivet gun ,but I like the welder better!!
@@userChumMing I just hate when miserable ppl always complain about something
How about adding a small temperature triggered fan where the high temp. is focused ? nice set up,
very well done sir.
Thank you kindly!
Where the high temp is focused; do you mean on the radiator or a spot in the garage?
@@speedandengineering on the hot spot on your radiator where the paint is burning . I had an old electric radiator fan on an old pickup of mine it had a 12volt in to the temp controller, a knob to adjust desired triggered temp and the 12 volt out went to the fan motor. the temp probe was on a 15" lead that was wire tied
to the radiator. when the probe hit the desired set point, the fan turns on by itself.
I have my exhaust in a long repeating S curve , It is encased in a PC tower shaped box, my temp probe is taped to the exhaust pipe, I have an old 12 volt output inverter from a portable radio wired to the temp probe 12 in, and the 12 volt out from the probe goes to the 12volt in on the fan thats mounted to a hole in the side of the box.The ground from the inverter just goes to the ground on the fan. When my heater kicks in the probe closes
the contacts and the fan turns on, when the exhaust temp goes below the set point, the fan shuts off. I just built my first prototype 2 nights ago and am waiting for supplies to build the hopefully final design.
He's cleaning the soot out as we speak 🤣
Very cool set up you could improve on it if you run the intake for the combustion chamber to outside air. how it set up your pulling heated air and dumping it out of the exhaust
Thanks!
That's a good suggestion, I'll think about it, if it is achievable without too much work :-)
Actually it lowers your chamber temp so it heats less. In my case it was like that. I went from 225 °C temp to 194°C
@ it doesn’t matter if the actual combustion temperature is lower you’re still dumping tons of air that you’re heating up and wasting energy, pushing it outside through the exhaust system
Nice work looks clean
Thanks!
I'd find or fab a passive S tube radiator and a heat fan behind it for max efficiency!
you should install bigger radiator and connect it opposite like now you have !!!! it can reduce a exhaust heat from +120C like to like +30C
Not a fan of routing exhaust indoors, solely to risk of gases leaking into the space. It could happen either way, but increases the risk for sure.
Egr +water pump+ water to air heat exchanger
in america we still use inches and feet in our measurement.
just remove the glass jar and cap it off. it is causing the headaches. just some helpful advice
I will look into this. Could be an easy fix, thanks!
However, I did "prime" the water trap off camera with a syringe, so no fumes should be able to escape.
GREAT ATTENTION TO DETAIL, BUT-
WOULD LOVE CALCULATIONS AND TEMP READINGS - THAT I CAN SEE ! NEEDS TO BE LARGE FIGURES ,BLACK TYPE ON WHITE BACKGROUND
AND INLET AND OTLET TEMPS , WHATS THE OUTDOOR EXHAUST TEMP- IF ITS HIGH, YOU CAN ADD MORE RECOVERY...
Aah, you watching on a smart phone?
Thanks for the feedback, I'll keep it in mind for upcoming videos 👍
105w of extra exhaust heat on something rated 8kw (in real terms more like 3kw at best) it still doesnt seem worth the hassle
Ye, this is a valid opinion.
105 W is a low estimate. Only counting convection on the front side. Not counting radiation nor convection on the rear.
If I had to guess, around 200 W.
Roughly +10 % total power output.
100watts is practically nothing in the world of heating. It's basically adding a person sitting in a chair to the room. You'd get a better bump by adding an insulated fresh air intake for combustion.
100 W was a low estimate, only counting convection from the front.
There is also convection from the rear and radiant heating. If I had to guess, perhaps double, around 200 W.
And yes, you are right, it isn't taking anyones breath away. But it is something. For someone who wants abit more performance and have the materials (not worth spending money on) it is an option.
I'm not smart enough to check the math on the radiator heat output but if it is indeed only around 100w, then that is absolutely not worth the hassle. A single candle puts out almost 100w.
I hear you, this is a valid perspective, I was torn on how to look at it.
Compounding over time 105 W is enough to heat 90 kg of air (weight of the air in the garage) 5 °C during 1.5 hours, length of the test. (Theory only)
As much heat as a candle, sure; but it is also as much heat as a small radiator on steroids. 112 °C surface temp, normal radiator temps are like 60 °C-ish?
100 W is a low estimate, only counting convection on the front side. There is also convection of the rear, as well as radiant heating.
At the end of the day, for someone running one of these and are lacking a bit of performance, its an option to get alittle bit more out of it.
Use an unpainted aluminum radiator from auto.
Someone else in the comments is using än intercooler, even better! :)
@@speedandengineering right thats what im going to use
As a woodworker, never welded anything, this looks very over engineered and probably cost about 4 times as much as the heater itself.
Meh, most of the materials are offcuts from previous projects. But sure, would cost abit to buy all the materials since you would have to stick to standard lengths etc.
Biggest cost-drivers were peripherals such as CO-alarm (off camera), 12 V power supply, T-duct in the tumbnail etc.
Так нельзя делать. Быстро будет заростать сажей камера сгорания.
Now test how much money an electric heater could save you
And how many views would an electric heater generate on his channel?
Broke your what????
your going to need 4 of them to heat a garage with in 2 hours
till its warm in winter
i know i have 2 in my garage and its still cold
I plan on doing this and having both run through a copper manifold that is submerged in a container of sand. For a sand heat battery. Possibly with exhaust geat recovery being one tank on one side of the room and the heated air going through another tank on the opposite side.
Nice!
Would be a very good setup for even tempeature. But a battery on "both ends" would make the heating of the room very slow? :-)