There seems to be a few missing comments, I think the spam bot/filter seems to be removing them at random. For the ones that show up in the youtube studio app I'll manually unflag them, which may take a bit of time. 20/8/2023
Whoever said 'looks don't matter' was either ugly or didn't care about getting subs. At least that QCTP has a face its mother could love. Then again, I, we have v different taste (eg., buying a new lathe at retail vs a used lathe that's 10x nicer but needs TLC). I know you know the appearance of your projects is directly proportional to the rate at which your channel grows, bc you're a sharp guy. But it makes it confusing when you ignore the finish of your projects given it's impact on growth rates... Anyway, still a fan of your projects, just hoping you'll go the extra mile eventually.
My Artisan Makes headcanon states that he's doing all of these machine projects and upgrades and tool builds to reach his ultimate goal of one day building a horizontal bandsaw.
If I would have one point of feedback on the design it would be the following: At 17:39 when you clamp the tool holder in the tool post you can see a gap on the left and right on both sides of the dovetail. The contact surfaces of the dovetail are in the middle of the tool holder. If the two outer flat surfaces of the tool holder would contact the tool post that would spread the bearing surface out and make the connection much more rigid. Looking at commercial tool holders that's the way the high quality ones are manufactured. Either way, I'm very impressed with what you are able to make in your small shop!
Was about to comment on that too :) Halving the supported width is 4x more deflection per newton of force. And it increases the free lever length of the tool :/ The male dovetail part should only pull the part in, it should never be the main registering surface. Now the entire tool is basically hanging off the narrow part of the dovetail neck, not supported by the available surface on the solid toolpost
It's official. Your next tool has to be a band saw. I thought you were joking when you started that cut with the angle grinder. I have a little Harbor Freight band saw ( plenty big for what I cut) and it's a blessing.
I just made my first QCTP at work with inspiration from your steel design. It’s 4x4x4 inches and I made the dovetails with wire EDM since I work in die making. It was a big help to see the mechanisms in action before I sat down to draft the model.
Watching you make high-precision machines using a hacksaw felt horribly janky, but its exactly how i would do it. It is refreshing to watch somebody work that isnt using tools i could never afford. Well done. Thank you for all the work you put into your videos for us.
I’ve always wanted to try getting into hobby machining- your videos are an awesome treasure trove of inspiration and information as to what works and what you can get away with making your own tools, and using generally affordable machines- upgrading them as you go to be very capable!
In the early 1970’s I learned machining on the job. Tutored by several established machinists. These were the days before ubiquitous NC or CNC, DRO’s, and quick change tool holders. We did use Trav-A-Dials and dial indicators. Every lathe had the 4 tool set up, BUT rather than index at 90° each move, they had indents every 15°. This allowed the same tool to cut a plurality of angles. Think different chamfers here. Now I have two lathes in my garage. They are toys more or less. Both have quick change tool holders. I miss the old set ups. I could rotate the 4 tool holder much faster than changing the so called Quick Change tools. However, one must keep in mind that in a production run, the time to shim was insignificant compared to the one of a kind cuts made in most hobby work. Still, I am tempted to modify the 4 tool holder that came with the smaller lathe.
Really nice work as usual, I really enjoy watching your videos even though I don't need to make these things. A comment about your radius filing technique though, the way you do it is the obvious one and what I used to use until a lecturer showed me a better way which is counter intuitive to most people but yields better results. If you start the filing with the contact point furthest away from you and as you push the file forward rock the handle downwards so the contact point moves towards you, you should find it results in a better filing action and resulting radius.
Beautiful work! Usiung the helical milling attachment is so cool. I have been wanting to mill 5 start high lead screws but never figured out a way and this looks like the best method, especially for long threads.
A good used horizontal bandsaw is fairly cheap usually $100 and they are so useful for cutting stock for the mill and lathe..just a real pleasure to use with a lot less waste and clean up to do..
@@wyattutz each region is different but my point was to pick up a used bandsaw..just an example a new 64.5 inch blade 250lb cast iron metal cutting horizontal bandsaw is $325.USD and used they are $75 -$200 with $100 being very common on different market places..even cheaper a metal chopsaw new is $100 for the abrasive blade type and $250 for metal cutting chopsaw with the carbide type blade..or even better a metal cutting porta bandsaws are $100 new as well..point being there is many choices better then a hacksaw..that's all..
@@robfrancis8830 yeah I guess it is his trademark now..just really glad he upgraded the lathe versus using that 600w motor lathe but with a 3hp motor as that was beyond sketchy even with the improvements I wouldn't stand near that chinesium grenade..
Hare & Forbes machinery house sell horizontal bandsaws for under $600 AUD, about time you bought one, other than that nice project. Thanks for sharing.😷👍👍👍
At 10:20 I see you filing the radius to the wedge. An easy trick is to use the bolt circle of the DRO and plunge with a cutter. Whith a decent number of plunges you need to file only a little bit. Much faster than to use a rotary table and more accurate than just filing.
When you tighten it, shouldnt it pull the toolholder flat against the block? It looke to be pulling the toolholder against the dovetail and there is a big airgap between tool holder and block. And, I'm sure you noticed, the moving part of the dovetail is on the wrong side. It should be on the rear and the fixed part of the dovetail closer to the chuck. Anyway, fantastic video and cinematography as always! It's great to see your new lathe getting pimped. 👍🙂
If you watched closely, you would have noticed that this is not like the traditional Aloris AXA wedge type tool post/holder. The dovetails are reversed like the Hardinge type. So in this instance the cutting force from the direction of chuck rotation pressing down on the tool in the tool holder will also press the wedge down further tightening the tool holder in the post.
I did mull over about which side to put the moving dovetail on. My logic was that the tool experiences a good amount of force pushing it away from the work, so you’d want the face that experiences a chuck of that force to be the fixed dovetail. Cheers
@@artisanmakes ... I think of the tool like a long lever, the end of the tool closest to the cut gets the most force so the rigidity needs to be highest at the tool end closest to the cut. But thats just me.
@@FWSwart999 .. yeah that is a good point. I think I would still put the non moving edge at the front, and based on your point, the moving dovetail on the rear but inverted.
I’m sure there is also that to contend to. There is probably some trade off. Which one matters most I’m not entirely sure, and how much it does matter is also up for debate
Nice project! For a future project and since you like to keep hacksawing, you could perhaps automate it a bit by making your own reciprocating hacksaw :)
Turned out really nice, also looks way more solid than the push type holders. One idea tht came to mind while watching: for the holders you could get a big piece of steel and machine a long dovetail along the flat side, then just saw it into pieces. That way the dovetail should be really consistent. Still wondering when you'll cave in to getting a bandsaw :D
Great video, I admire what you are able to pull off with tools and machines you own. Keep going! Small advice I would give you tho* when reaming.Use a reamer in the collet chuck, because reamers are much tighter tolerances that the runout you get out of the drill chuck. Feel free to measure it with dial comparator, on every single one I measured so far was around 0.05 - 0.1 mm. :D
I love it man! Could use some tweaks like you said with centering the working side of the dovetail and making it deeper etc. I think you can even make yourself a handle with a square hole at the base with an optional set screw so it's removable
Мне кажется, что в таком виде приспоба больше пригодна для расточных резцов и сверл. Потому что при креплении проходных резцов основной упор приходится на жесткую заднюю часть, а передняя часть кассеты «висит» на подвижном клине. Нехорошо. Если б меня кто спросил, я бы скомпоновал все наоборот 😊 Ну и, у меня QCTP фабричный, но с пазом в кассете. Клин сзади, и при зажиме кассета плотно прижимается к монолитной передней части ластохвоста. Что, конечно, жестко и надежно. Seems to me, it would be more rigid if you make a wedge on other side.
@@artisanmakes Sorry, there wont be one this week. I got NPN instead of PNP prox sensors, and needed to do some extra rewiring. Now dealing with some gremlins.
I think the positive dovetail on the toolpost is a better plan for the following reason. When you tighten it, the tool is clamped front and back to the static face of the toolpost. The sliding part of the dovetail is only pulling it tight, with ideally no contact between the "top" of the dovetail and the toolholder. With your design, the toolholder is either clamped only by the face of the dovetail, or you are trying to clamp against the front and back while one of those surfaces (the moving dovetail) is still trying to move under that clamping force. You could put clearance for that in every toolholder so they only contact the solid parts of the toolpost, but you did say you wanted simplified geometry on the toolholders.
3:12 -> 3:30 - there must be someone who watches this channel, is in the same city as you, Melbourne? Sydney? Perth?, and has access to a water jet cutter that can "donate" a bit of time. A bit of 10mm rod with the hacksaw - no probs. This big beasty - now that's a workout!!!
I always minimise how many shims I use on a square toolpost. But your showing how to build a quick change toolpost. Nice to have all that equipment & the gearhead lathe should take a cut better than variable speed lathes. Might have to wear earmuffs to protect your hearing.
An inspiration for my own hobby shop. I desperately need a rigid saddle compound and tool holder on my 10x32" import. The hobby milling machine needs better fly-cutters than the scketchy shrapnel spinners I'm using right now.
I just make a few tool posts that holds different dedicated tools and I just swap them out. I don't quite like the quick change tool post because of not enough rigidity.
A properly sized quick change tool post is plenty rigid enough. I can stall my 1000kg lathe no problem with a regular tool in the quick change tool post and a short workpiece in the chuck without any chatter . The problem most of the time is workholding rigidity for example long workpiece, or the compound slide.
looks like a great bit of kit but that steel looks horrible to mill, so crumbly and janky. I like the style very much Thanks for sharing, yours is a channel where I particularly look out for new content. interesting and thought provoking stuff
2 suggestions - 1. remake the wedge to be smaller - that will give thee dovetail a wider more stable footprint while fixing your offset concern 2. integrate tension spring at the bottom of the threaded bar that carries the wedge - that wil ensure any tool vibration will neve shake the tool fully loose
Noticed that the dovetail used here is the opposite to a typical Aloris style- especially with the wedge type, I always thought pushing out with the wedge & pulling the 2 ends in against the toolpost gives it a little more stiffness... also, making things interchangeable with something out there lets you take advantage of finding a deal on commercial holders somewhere, since, I find, I could always use just one or two more... But, otherwise, very nicely done - especially the spiral milling!
I have a suggestion for your next Shop Upgrade Build Project... Build (or buy) a bandsaw...you really, Really, REALLY should have one... Please get one...watching you hacksaw your parts before cleaning them up on the mill or lathe is painful... 😄😁😆😅😂🤣 After buying or building a bandsaw, may I suggest a Milling Machine Upgrade that should increase the available power at the spindle to take advantage of the increased rigidity... Specifically, machine up a pair of steel gears large enough to span the gap between the motor shaft and spindle shaft converting the Mill from a belt drive to a gear drive and also allowing you to make the motor gear a larger diameter than the spindle gear to allow you to reduce the Frequency you're running the motor at to something closer to what it's designed for while still maintaining the spindle RPM you need for machining...
I have a tool post with the same offset style of locking wedge and it has 2 tool faces with the wedge locations mirrored. I wonder if there's enough difference in tool rigidity between near and far locking wedge to justify making a pair?
Very impressed. Your work is getting better. Is there a place or platform where you share your drawings? Love to make one of these myself sometime. Regards, Paul
I was thinking that you wouldn't need to make the dovetail bigger, you could just mirror it so the moving side is towards you instead of towards the cutter. You could still make the dovetail bigger simply by taking some off the moving "jaw"
I'm curious why you didn't make the wedge type to fit the tool holders you already have? Seems as if it would work and save a whole new set of tools to make
OMG dude if I win the lottery I'm buying you a bandsaw. It makes my arm hurt to watch you saw through 1 or 2 inch thick stock. I'd buy you a surface grinder too LOL
question for ya bud, How come you didn't set it up to use your old tool post holders? make it a male style and slide the female holers onto it so you you had the parts there? plus you can purchase holders cheap online. just curious as to what the thoughts were.
Would it make sense to move the gibb to the other side of the post’s dovetail so that there’s less distance between the fixed mating surface and the cutting edge?
If you made the dovetails on the tool holders a little less deep than that which they go into, they would seat on the outside faces rather than the middle one which might give a bit more rigidity.
If your lathe is Chinese- make sure you clean all the ways, crosslide etc etc because they will be full of grit. And I thoroughly recommend the Swiss tool post as ABOM79 uses. I think you mean a gib not sliding dovetail/wedgelock other non-machinist term.
There seems to be a few missing comments, I think the spam bot/filter seems to be removing them at random. For the ones that show up in the youtube studio app I'll manually unflag them, which may take a bit of time. 20/8/2023
Whoever said 'looks don't matter' was either ugly or didn't care about getting subs. At least that QCTP has a face its mother could love. Then again, I, we have v different taste (eg., buying a new lathe at retail vs a used lathe that's 10x nicer but needs TLC). I know you know the appearance of your projects is directly proportional to the rate at which your channel grows, bc you're a sharp guy. But it makes it confusing when you ignore the finish of your projects given it's impact on growth rates... Anyway, still a fan of your projects, just hoping you'll go the extra mile eventually.
i must of missed why you went backwards on the dovetail.
My Artisan Makes headcanon states that he's doing all of these machine projects and upgrades and tool builds to reach his ultimate goal of one day building a horizontal bandsaw.
It's amazing how much work he's done modifying his machines while still using a hacksaw. I appreciate the philosophy.
it drives me INSANE!! someone do a go-fund-me for him so that we all can pitch in and he can buy a bandsaw!! 🤣
Yeah i think at this point he will never buy a bandsaw just for the memes
@@matiastripaldi406 i'm pretty sure that is the case...the bastard🤪😁
@hedning003 I agree. The angle grinder too. Makes me stop his videos short.
@@robertsyourrelative yeah,dont like it eighter-but beats the hacksaw atleast - hope he dosnt buy a 230mm anglegrinder now 😀
Over time your parts are getting prettier and your vids are getting slicker, watching you progress in both is very pleasing. Well done dude. 👍
Excellent job I'm certainly going to make one for myself thank you, keep up the good work
Making your own bandsaw might be a neat project. You could dub over the shots of it cutting stuff with old audio of your hacksaw for old time's sake!
I'm always glad to see the hacksaw make an appearance. Keeps you humble lol.
If I would have one point of feedback on the design it would be the following:
At 17:39 when you clamp the tool holder in the tool post you can see a gap on the left and right on both sides of the dovetail.
The contact surfaces of the dovetail are in the middle of the tool holder.
If the two outer flat surfaces of the tool holder would contact the tool post that would spread the bearing surface out and make the connection much more rigid.
Looking at commercial tool holders that's the way the high quality ones are manufactured.
Either way, I'm very impressed with what you are able to make in your small shop!
Was about to comment on that too :) Halving the supported width is 4x more deflection per newton of force. And it increases the free lever length of the tool :/
The male dovetail part should only pull the part in, it should never be the main registering surface. Now the entire tool is basically hanging off the narrow part of the dovetail neck, not supported by the available surface on the solid toolpost
I didn’t catch that. That should be an easy fix and hopefully net me a bit more rigidity. Cheers guys
It's official. Your next tool has to be a band saw. I thought you were joking when you started that cut with the angle grinder. I have a little Harbor Freight band saw ( plenty big for what I cut) and it's a blessing.
This would be my favorite channel by all means
First time I've seen a youtube machining channel not running a reamer too fast. If I could subscribe twice, I would.
I just made my first QCTP at work with inspiration from your steel design. It’s 4x4x4 inches and I made the dovetails with wire EDM since I work in die making. It was a big help to see the mechanisms in action before I sat down to draft the model.
Watching you make high-precision machines using a hacksaw felt horribly janky, but its exactly how i would do it. It is refreshing to watch somebody work that isnt using tools i could never afford. Well done. Thank you for all the work you put into your videos for us.
In that case you might also want to give Allen Millyard a watch. That man can do miracles with a hacksaw.
Pretty rigid quick change tool post. I like the square thread dovetail locking mechanism.
I’ve always wanted to try getting into hobby machining- your videos are an awesome treasure trove of inspiration and information as to what works and what you can get away with making your own tools, and using generally affordable machines- upgrading them as you go to be very capable!
God love that little bit of pucker factor to really make you feel alive.
You are my favorite channel, I am binging your videos for a week now and I still can't get enough!
I absolutely love the underdog machinist vibe.
In the early 1970’s I learned machining on the job. Tutored by several established machinists. These were the days before ubiquitous NC or CNC, DRO’s, and quick change tool holders. We did use Trav-A-Dials and dial indicators. Every lathe had the 4 tool set up, BUT rather than index at 90° each move, they had indents every 15°. This allowed the same tool to cut a plurality of angles. Think different chamfers here.
Now I have two lathes in my garage. They are toys more or less. Both have quick change tool holders. I miss the old set ups. I could rotate the 4 tool holder much faster than changing the so called Quick Change tools. However, one must keep in mind that in a production run, the time to shim was insignificant compared to the one of a kind cuts made in most hobby work. Still, I am tempted to modify the 4 tool holder that came with the smaller lathe.
Awesome project, I especially like the coarse square thread driving the wedge!
Great project for added tools.
Thanks for sharing.
Really nice work as usual, I really enjoy watching your videos even though I don't need to make these things. A comment about your radius filing technique though, the way you do it is the obvious one and what I used to use until a lecturer showed me a better way which is counter intuitive to most people but yields better results. If you start the filing with the contact point furthest away from you and as you push the file forward rock the handle downwards so the contact point moves towards you, you should find it results in a better filing action and resulting radius.
Beautiful work! Usiung the helical milling attachment is so cool. I have been wanting to mill 5 start high lead screws but never figured out a way and this looks like the best method, especially for long threads.
A good used horizontal bandsaw is fairly cheap usually $100 and they are so useful for cutting stock for the mill and lathe..just a real pleasure to use with a lot less waste and clean up to do..
The hacksaw is basically part of his body at this point
He's a cyborg, and one of his arms is a hacksaw.
My initial thought, now it would not be the same without the hacksaw. Its akin to a concert without a drum or guitar solo. :)
@@wyattutz each region is different but my point was to pick up a used bandsaw..just an example a new 64.5 inch blade 250lb cast iron metal cutting horizontal bandsaw is $325.USD and used they are $75 -$200 with $100 being very common on different market places..even cheaper a metal chopsaw new is $100 for the abrasive blade type and $250 for metal cutting chopsaw with the carbide type blade..or even better a metal cutting porta bandsaws are $100 new as well..point being there is many choices better then a hacksaw..that's all..
@@robfrancis8830 yeah I guess it is his trademark now..just really glad he upgraded the lathe versus using that 600w motor lathe but with a 3hp motor as that was beyond sketchy even with the improvements I wouldn't stand near that chinesium grenade..
i really like the wedge arrangement seems it was a bit of a PITA to make .. I love that helical milling rig too I'll look up that video now
Great job, a lot of effort and thinking went into this.
Excellent job, quite ambitious, but turned out great, very solid build.
Gear driven dividing head worked brilliant.
Thanks for sharing.
Looks bloody lovely mate well done!!
Hare & Forbes machinery house sell horizontal bandsaws for under $600 AUD, about time you bought one, other than that nice project. Thanks for sharing.😷👍👍👍
At 10:20 I see you filing the radius to the wedge. An easy trick is to use the bolt circle of the DRO and plunge with a cutter. Whith a decent number of plunges you need to file only a little bit. Much faster than to use a rotary table and more accurate than just filing.
I really need to give this method a try
Excellent work, and getting even better over time. We shared this video on our homemade tools forum this week 😎
It is an amazingly simple design or concept. Thanks for sharing!
When you tighten it, shouldnt it pull the toolholder flat against the block? It looke to be pulling the toolholder against the dovetail and there is a big airgap between tool holder and block.
And, I'm sure you noticed, the moving part of the dovetail is on the wrong side. It should be on the rear and the fixed part of the dovetail closer to the chuck.
Anyway, fantastic video and cinematography as always! It's great to see your new lathe getting pimped. 👍🙂
If you watched closely, you would have noticed that this is not like the traditional Aloris AXA wedge type tool post/holder. The dovetails are reversed like the Hardinge type. So in this instance the cutting force from the direction of chuck rotation pressing down on the tool in the tool holder will also press the wedge down further tightening the tool holder in the post.
I did mull over about which side to put the moving dovetail on. My logic was that the tool experiences a good amount of force pushing it away from the work, so you’d want the face that experiences a chuck of that force to be the fixed dovetail. Cheers
@@artisanmakes ... I think of the tool like a long lever, the end of the tool closest to the cut gets the most force so the rigidity needs to be highest at the tool end closest to the cut. But thats just me.
@@FWSwart999 .. yeah that is a good point. I think I would still put the non moving edge at the front, and based on your point, the moving dovetail on the rear but inverted.
I’m sure there is also that to contend to. There is probably some trade off. Which one matters most I’m not entirely sure, and how much it does matter is also up for debate
Fantastic job mate. It makes me feel a built guilty about going out and buying a new tool post👍
Nice project!
For a future project and since you like to keep hacksawing, you could perhaps automate it a bit by making your own reciprocating hacksaw :)
Turned out really nice, also looks way more solid than the push type holders.
One idea tht came to mind while watching: for the holders you could get a big piece of steel and machine a long dovetail along the flat side, then just saw it into pieces. That way the dovetail should be really consistent. Still wondering when you'll cave in to getting a bandsaw :D
Looks great, my dude. I reckon you need a horizontal bandsaw next.
Great video, I admire what you are able to pull off with tools and machines you own. Keep going!
Small advice I would give you tho* when reaming.Use a reamer in the collet chuck, because reamers are much tighter tolerances that the runout you get out of the drill chuck. Feel free to measure it with dial comparator, on every single one I measured so far was around 0.05 - 0.1 mm. :D
Cheers. I used to be so stringent on doing that. I need to get back into that habit
Well done---a real good project
Nice to see another Aussie having the same issues buying descent steel in this country
A really impressive build, always wondered how these things worked.
I love it man! Could use some tweaks like you said with centering the working side of the dovetail and making it deeper etc. I think you can even make yourself a handle with a square hole at the base with an optional set screw so it's removable
Love the design eliminating the second locking handle!
Мне кажется, что в таком виде приспоба больше пригодна для расточных резцов и сверл. Потому что при креплении проходных резцов основной упор приходится на жесткую заднюю часть, а передняя часть кассеты «висит» на подвижном клине. Нехорошо. Если б меня кто спросил, я бы скомпоновал все наоборот 😊
Ну и, у меня QCTP фабричный, но с пазом в кассете. Клин сзади, и при зажиме кассета плотно прижимается к монолитной передней части ластохвоста. Что, конечно, жестко и надежно.
Seems to me, it would be more rigid if you make a wedge on other side.
You need to make ten of these and sell them.
Then I can buy one.
And then I'll have an excuse to go and buy a lathe.
The wife will understand😆
A nice QCTP is a real improvement to any lathe. Nice one.
Cheers my dude. Waiting for this weeks video from you.
@@artisanmakes Sorry, there wont be one this week. I got NPN instead of PNP prox sensors, and needed to do some extra rewiring. Now dealing with some gremlins.
I think the positive dovetail on the toolpost is a better plan for the following reason. When you tighten it, the tool is clamped front and back to the static face of the toolpost. The sliding part of the dovetail is only pulling it tight, with ideally no contact between the "top" of the dovetail and the toolholder. With your design, the toolholder is either clamped only by the face of the dovetail, or you are trying to clamp against the front and back while one of those surfaces (the moving dovetail) is still trying to move under that clamping force. You could put clearance for that in every toolholder so they only contact the solid parts of the toolpost, but you did say you wanted simplified geometry on the toolholders.
Or you could take the moving dovetail out and shave a bit off its base so the unmodified toolholders don't clamp against it, as a quick fix
Hi , just found your channel and have been watching a lot of your videos.
Awesome work keep it up
3:12 -> 3:30 - there must be someone who watches this channel, is in the same city as you, Melbourne? Sydney? Perth?, and has access to a water jet cutter that can "donate" a bit of time. A bit of 10mm rod with the hacksaw - no probs. This big beasty - now that's a workout!!!
@ 3:26 ... Shish Kebab... U sure love your Hacksaw NOT...
Come on sponsors... give this guy a Small Band saw...
He 4 SURE deserves 1...
kudos man. hell of a job. well done.
That was some really nice work.
I always minimise how many shims I use on a square toolpost. But your showing how to build a quick change toolpost. Nice to have all that equipment & the gearhead lathe should take a cut better than variable speed lathes. Might have to wear earmuffs to protect your hearing.
coffee.. the machinist's savior!
Awesome build.
beautiful work mate, absolutely beautiful.
Great job. I love this channel!!
An inspiration for my own hobby shop. I desperately need a rigid saddle compound and tool holder on my 10x32" import. The hobby milling machine needs better fly-cutters than the scketchy shrapnel spinners I'm using right now.
Nice job. Compound next. ❤
nice job never tought of the complexity for that type toolpost.
Someone pass around a hat to get him a bandsaw. My arms got tired just watching him use that hacksaw. 😂
One day Artisan Makes will get a bandsaw...
Very good work!
compound delete is usually next
we have to get this dude a band saw
Very cool dude.
always enjoy the videos thanks mate 👍
When you pulled out the angle grinder I thought you were doing a This Old Tony sort of joke. :)
Great work! Can you comment on the model and maker of your vise you use in your mill? Thanks
I just make a few tool posts that holds different dedicated tools and I just swap them out. I don't quite like the quick change tool post because of not enough rigidity.
A properly sized quick change tool post is plenty rigid enough. I can stall my 1000kg lathe no problem with a regular tool in the quick change tool post and a short workpiece in the chuck without any chatter . The problem most of the time is workholding rigidity for example long workpiece, or the compound slide.
Another potential modification to the design would be to reverse the threads so that a RH / Clockwise turn tightens the tool holder.
very satisfying video!
looks like a great bit of kit but that steel looks horrible to mill, so crumbly and janky.
I like the style very much
Thanks for sharing, yours is a channel where I particularly look out for new content. interesting and thought provoking stuff
There has to be a bandsaw company out there that is willing to promote this channel and offer him a bandsaw!!
👍🤏Good job. I think the wider swallow's tail would give more rigidity.
Dobra Robota. Uważam że szerszy jaskółczy ogon dałby większą sztywność.
2 suggestions -
1. remake the wedge to be smaller - that will give thee dovetail a wider more stable footprint while fixing your offset concern
2. integrate tension spring at the bottom of the threaded bar that carries the wedge - that wil ensure any tool vibration will neve shake the tool fully loose
Noticed that the dovetail used here is the opposite to a typical Aloris style- especially with the wedge type, I always thought pushing out with the wedge & pulling the 2 ends in against the toolpost gives it a little more stiffness... also, making things interchangeable with something out there lets you take advantage of finding a deal on commercial holders somewhere, since, I find, I could always use just one or two more... But, otherwise, very nicely done - especially the spiral milling!
I have a suggestion for your next Shop Upgrade Build Project...
Build (or buy) a bandsaw...you really, Really, REALLY should have one...
Please get one...watching you hacksaw your parts before cleaning them up on the mill or lathe is painful...
😄😁😆😅😂🤣
After buying or building a bandsaw, may I suggest a Milling Machine Upgrade that should increase the available power at the spindle to take advantage of the increased rigidity...
Specifically, machine up a pair of steel gears large enough to span the gap between the motor shaft and spindle shaft converting the Mill from a belt drive to a gear drive and also allowing you to make the motor gear a larger diameter than the spindle gear to allow you to reduce the Frequency you're running the motor at to something closer to what it's designed for while still maintaining the spindle RPM you need for machining...
Good job!
I have a tool post with the same offset style of locking wedge and it has 2 tool faces with the wedge locations mirrored.
I wonder if there's enough difference in tool rigidity between near and far locking wedge to justify making a pair?
Very impressed. Your work is getting better.
Is there a place or platform where you share your drawings?
Love to make one of these myself sometime.
Regards,
Paul
awesome job as always, whom taught you to do all of this man.
I was thinking that you wouldn't need to make the dovetail bigger, you could just mirror it so the moving side is towards you instead of towards the cutter. You could still make the dovetail bigger simply by taking some off the moving "jaw"
I'm curious why you didn't make the wedge type to fit the tool holders you already have? Seems as if it would work and save a whole new set of tools to make
The tool holders for the old tool post are a little too small for the size of tooling I use now. So I would have ended up placing them in any event.
Artisan! How about for the 100k project you build your self a machile hacksaw. Pleeeaaassseeee 😄
Anyone ever seen this guy and modern vintage gamer in a room at the same time?
I think you are on to something.
I would pay money for this plans.
For the love of all that is machining, like this guys video so he can get a freaking band saw! 😂😂😂
Good stuff
OMG dude if I win the lottery I'm buying you a bandsaw. It makes my arm hurt to watch you saw through 1 or 2 inch thick stock. I'd buy you a surface grinder too LOL
I wont tell old hackysaw you said that :)
HI IS it time you made a power hacksaw, there are 1s about the use normal hacksaw blades compact as well
Steve
"Took longer than I'd care to admit" Maybe a 5HP motor on the mill next?
question for ya bud, How come you didn't set it up to use your old tool post holders? make it a male style and slide the female holers onto it so you you had the parts there? plus you can purchase holders cheap online. just curious as to what the thoughts were.
Комментарий в поддержку канала и ролика, а также труда мастера
Nice job
What metal did you use?
Is the right hand thread on the lock going to annoy you in the future? Swapping should just mean a new screw-part not a new wedge, right ?
The answer is yes, I probably should have caught that in the design stage
Would it make sense to move the gibb to the other side of the post’s dovetail so that there’s less distance between the fixed mating surface and the cutting edge?
If you made the dovetails on the tool holders a little less deep than that which they go into, they would seat on the outside faces rather than the middle one which might give a bit more rigidity.
Do you think the noise in the head stock is coming from the bearings or the gears.
If your lathe is Chinese- make sure you clean all the ways, crosslide etc etc because they will be full of grit. And I thoroughly recommend the Swiss tool post as ABOM79 uses. I think you mean a gib not sliding dovetail/wedgelock other non-machinist term.
You wouldn’t believe the grit that came out of this machine when I first bought it
Oh I would. I had a mini Chinese lathe that I ashamedly bought. I learnt how to scrape on that.@@artisanmakes
man, your t slot cutter got quite a workout this episode.
That poor old cutter really deserves a holiday at this point :)
Bravo. 👏👏👏👏