Thanks for watching everyone! Be sure to tune in Friday, August 5th for another fun project! If you'd like to tackle this project yourself I have some drawings on my Patreon that might be helpful!
With metric threads on an imperial lathe you need to turn it off and not disengage the half nut. retract. run lathe in reverse, then go in for the next pass. even hiitting the same mark on the thread cutting die you wont re enter the thread at the same point
When hatching a section, the internal thread must also be hatched, since it is located in the body of the part. The part itself could be sharpened with a cone in the opposite direction, then the perpendicularity of the end and the average diameter of the thread would be ideal, and the less important upper end could be cut from the second setting. Or trim the end on a threaded mandrel. It would also be good to harden the nut to 35-38 HRC, this will increase its durability. In general, thoughtful and pleasant work, it's great!
What's the name of the precise line/length sketchinging thing you use in drafting part of your design that would make so much stuff more streamlined. Please and thank you someone
@@R3dryuu It's still possible. You can disengage half-nuts, retract, stop the machine, and then run the machine (and threading dial) backwards until you hit the same mark on the threading dial, before re-engaging to extract the tool. As long as you don't allow the dial to make a full rotation before stopping the machine, the half-nuts will engage in the exact same spot on the lead screw, and the threads will line up fine.
Also will keep other people from taking snips of his videos without permission. There is a reason Diresta has his name on everything, and then Oxtools did something similar.
As a CAD designer - I must say that , i enjoy watching a guy do a technical drawing by hand. Im in ave. Did this in my studies, and many times it was pain in the a... But now when i seesomeone draw things they want / need to do by hand it is kinda mesmerizing.
Thanks! I'm a CAD designer as well and it's absolutely a more tortuous process to do by hand. But I spend enough time looking at screens so it's a nice break.
It's amazing you still have your manual drafting skills intact. I took drafting in high school and I forgot it all. The little I do remember made learning CAD super easy.
I feel like I don't remember much at all haha just drawing lines with a ruler. I'd definitely have to go back and review all the cool compass techniques for drawing polygons and bisecting angles and whatnot.
I still remember a comment that my 10th grade (1963) drafting instructor made. Draftsmen will always have a job. Before anything is manufactured someone has to draw a picture of it.
Brilliant! As an engineer who designs parts and creates drawings for various manufacturing processes , I always dream of owning a small machine shop. I love the methods you devise to stay within intended tolerance and of course the drafting!
If you have an imperial leadscrew and want to cut metric threads, leaving the halfnuts engaged and reversing out is your only option because the leadscrew pitch is not related to the thread pitch. No changes to the threading dial could fix that. Same goes for imperial threads on a metric machine.
Not so. You can disengage the halfnuts, stop the spindle, move the tool clear of the threads, reverse the lathe then reengage as the same number comes round. The caveat is that the threading dial cannot make a full revolution. Its effectively like keeping the half nuts engaged but with the ability to stop the tool motion immediately. There are a number of contributors on youtube who have demonstrated this technique.
@@ThePottingShedWorkshop Yeah ok true, and I've even done that, but I couldn't think of a quick way to describe it. You did a good job! Leaving the halfnuts engaged is easier most of the time but this technique is great if you're threading to a shoulder or something where you have to end the thread in a narrow window.
@@ThePottingShedWorkshop I was going to say the same thing as you have said. I also check the comments before I post my comment so as to not double up. My main reason for replying to you is to keep your comment near the top so others can be informed of this method. Cheers from John, Australia.
Thanks guys, I learned something I’ll try. I almost exclusively make metric threads on my Southbend Nordic which is an imperial lead screw machine. So far I have just kept the half-nut engaged which just feels bad somehow.
this is a most helpful tip. I have a vintage WW2 Monarch Lathe I'll be bringing back under power soon and there are times when I may need to cut a metric thread. Thanks!
Great job, thanks for showing the mistakes. I have a lot of respect for the integrity you demonstrate in your videos. As always, I'm certain your grandfather would be pleased.
It's a bit controversial with experienced machinists but for threading (especially blind) it can be less scraptastic to thread from left to right. Joe Pi has a video with all of the details but basically you flip the tool upside down and reverse the motor. It sounds ridiculous but the results can be quite nice.
I've seen this (not by Joe Pi) but I think it takes an opposite hand cutter from what I have. Flipping mine would still require the lathe to run forward, even if I'm cutting on the back side of the bore. Then feeding out would make a left-hand thread. I should get the opposite hand tool since i would prefer to pull out of the bore rather than in
@@InheritanceMachining If the spindle and drive shaft are rotating in the same direction then it will cut a right handed thread, I think, regardless of whether the motor is running forward or backward.
I love these videos. A self fulfilling hobby is always cool to see. I've only handled a Bridgeport mill once, but it was a memorable experience. Met the man through friends from church. He is a motorcycle builder in his spare time now, but he is a self trained engine expert. He used to make parts for F1 and the skill he showed proved it. Wise and patient man. I'll never forget it. Can't wait to build my own shop one day.
I've said it before, but I'll say it again. I appreciate seeing your mistakes. It reminds everyone that making mistakes is part of making. Everyone does it and everyone just has to try to learn from their mistakes.
As someone who only has access to a lathe by being on a engineering competition design team in college, I've never really had any training on how to use/set up a lathe. The only training I've received is This Old Tony and maybe a few others. Now that I've found your channel, it's unfortunately time to graduate and I'll lose my access. But wow, I really wish I could have found your channel a while ago because you not only show the chips flying but you provide the problem statement, proposed solution, design process, machining setup, actual machining, and the finished product in use. Its incredible and I love every aspect of your videos. Especially the machining setup, you always provide some real helpful pieces of advice or simply explain how you set the tool up. Thank you!
Love this channel because I am in the middle of my apprenticeship and still have a lot to learn about machining (especially with the lathe) and while watching your videos I always try to think of the way I would have done the part.
My father taught Mechanical Drawing and Architectural Drafting for 30 years. I got as much enjoyment out of watching your drafting skills as I did your machine work. A lost art to be sure.
You could say you're a nut for a better tool post... or not. There's something a little bit more satisfying about improving one's tools or workspace. I'm in the midst of a much needed 25+ yr remodel/re-org of my shop. When I bought the place in '98, I had to put in 6 mos of remodeling before moving in. I emptied the shop, threw tools & shelving/cabs from previous shop in, & went to work. Over the years, more equipment & tools were added until I had passage ways, cramped work spaces & small auxilary shops. I finally had enough as I came out of chemo recovery last year & started planning an expansion & re-org. It's so satisfying to be painting, wiring, creating new, more efficient storage & seeing a more organized total work area take shape. You're an inspiration for doing things right, even if it takes a few tries. GeoD
A trick I use when cutting internal threads is to cut a recess at finished size. In this case 22mm 1/4 deep into the part to be sacrificially machined away when threading operation is finished. As soon as the cutter leaves a trace mark on the recessed inner diameter you know your at the correct thread depth.. Its very advantageous when working with large sizes that no test thread can be had or used. Keep up the great content.
Your videos are really good. And your voice, calm narration and dry humor make your videos quite the relaxing watch. I think you're my new favorite machinist channel. Thanks for all your effort!
Perfect timing!!! Just the other day, I too was looing at the top nut on my tool holder thinking it could use a handle. As a fabricator, not a machinist, my first thought was to make a handle to tig weld to the existing nut. However your end result it MUCH more desirable. Guess I better figure out my thread pitches and get my taps ordered. Thank you. You are an inspiration.
Well done. Thanks for showing the mistakes also. So many times tubers cut out the mistakes and it helps so much more to see them so we all get to learn along with you. So much appreciated and makes watching that much more fun. Great job!
Next week we'll find out it was all one big side project. Actually he's making a nut for the lathe before he can make a part for the mill, which is needed to make a fixture for the belt sander, to make a part for the press, which is removing a part from the surface grinder, which is being used to sharpen his pencil to design the part needed to get the wife off his back.
@@michael7324 Yes. The original project was to set up a shop to play with the cool tools. After that it is shadow boxing to hide the original project. Warning: Once you have convinced the better half that nearly anything makeable or repairable can be made or fixed with the addition of just one tool per project. The tool come frequently and the projects come even faster. 😁😎
So glad I just found this channel. So much information packed into every episode, and your style is such a joy to watch. I binged every video over two days, and I already can't wait to see more. Thanks for sharing!
Sub'd awhile ago, just started to look at past offerings. So, here now. ' Made' same thing earlier, allowed for 'mistakes', finished it, then turned it down to get handle in right position. Know my usual type of mistakes, so allow for them. Gets the job done. Thanks for all your videos.
Great video and I've been really enjoying the whole series. Thank you! I thought I'd try and explain the threading dial a bit and why it went wrong, hopefully this helps One way to think about the threading dial is that it's measuring distance moved of the carriage relative to the lead screw. If you set the dial on a mark, then move the carriage 1 inch with the half-nuts disengaged, you should see the dial land on another mark. I would guess that your dial is set to measure 2 inches for a full rotation, then 1 inch between the 0 marks, half an inch between 0&A marks, etc. The reason why this works so well for inch threads is that they're specified in teeth per inch so, if you have a whole number of TPI and you move the carriage one inch along the thread, it will always land back in the thread no matter what the pitch is. If you've got an even number of TPI, you can get away with moving any multiple of half an inch, and so on. This all falls apart with metric threads because they're specified by pitch instead of teeth per , so it's hard to find some relative distance between the carriage & lead screw that will be guaranteed to be a multiple of the pitch. Lining up on one mark on the threading dial simply set that distance to 2 inches, which definitely doesn't divide nicely by any metric pitches.
Ah... that totally makes sense... If thats the case then one time engagement technique will be the only way to cut metric threads with my lathe. Thanks for the explanation!
Metric threads read distance between teeth (ex. M22x2.0 is a 22mm diameter with teeth every 2mm). Most imperial lathes require you to leave the half nut engaged, and reverse the motor so the timing remains intact. This Old Tony has a very good video from a few years ago documenting all this you might enjoy watching.
@@InheritanceMachining This is the way I cut metric threads on a standard manual machine, you could try this and see how you like it. I will engage the half nuts like usual on say 0 then when I get to the end of the thread I will disengage the half nut and turn off the machine. (Back to cross slide out obviously) Then put the machine in reverse and engage the half nuts back on the zero in reverse when you hit it. As long as you don't make a full rotation on the dial and then go for it, it should work.
@@Anonymousg64 interesting… I just checked mine and the gear that engages the lead screw is 1:1 with the dial. Does yours have an internal gear reduction?
Hi, just something I used to do when I was machining parts, at 12:35 you was spending time trying to make sure parts were perpendicular in the lathe jaws, what I used to do what put a parallel behind the part covering the bore in the chuck and bumping my part against it, holding it flat as I close the jaws around it. Of course its not going to be as accurate as with using a DTI but itll get you closer
Getting the thickness of the nut just right is a nice touch. One thing about metric threads on an inch lathe is that you have to leave the halfnuts engaged once you start and only reverse the motor to wind out.
thanks! yeah it dawned on me how obvious that is once I realized my lead screw is 4TPI. I actually got a helpful tip on this as well. You can disengage in your stopping window then turn off the lathe. when you run in reverse pick it back up on the same mark. as long as the dial doesn't go all the way around you'll stay aligned
This was enlightening since I learned drafting with a sliding parallel, and have never used a drafting machine. They always seemed mysterious. Now I see their advantage. Is there play/deflection? Thank you for all you do for all of us!
I really love your videos! Very inspiring. Good to see another perfectionist at work! Great personality and so glad you include you “elements of training” (mistakes) which are our best teachers!
When cutting metric threads with an imperial lead screw you should not disengage the feed but stop and reverse out of the hole before starting your next cut. Works every time for me!
You will need to make a nice tool-height gauge for the lathe at some point as a side project. Especially on small diameters eyeballing it with the tailstock won't be good enough. Even a few tenths (yes, tenths of a mm) of height difference can mess up your infeed reading in regard to your actual depth of cut.
You can make a very simple but quick and efficient one by just turning say a 2" steel bar down to say 1 1/2" for say 5" on a bar that's about 6" long. The 5" length needs to be an accurate length that is the same as height from top face of cross slide to center height. You just sit the 'mushroom' shaped bar on the cross slide and adjust the tool height so the tool just slides under the 2" head. Worked very nice on a smaller lathe than yours. Hard to describe in text!
"A thing of beauty is a joy forever" - Johan Keats Just so you Brandon to be honest about your mistakes and yet still build something so beautiful and functional. Thank you as always, loved your tool post nut story 🙂
Your channel is growing on me and I am just as excited when you upload a new video, as when I see This Old Tony, Blondie Hacks, etc. Really wish you the best!
You are the absolute fastest learning and highly achieving apprentice I have ever seen in the trade. Advanced principles you grasp quite easily. Really love the channel. My ONLY,ONLY advice (and possible without any merit) is I never insert rusty/dirty metal into my chucks. I with take it over to a wire wheel on the bench grinder and brush them of first. Can't say I was taught that in my early years or if it's my own OCD. Reality is the chuck jaws are hardened(both on the mill vises and chucks) but I think it is best practice. Keep up the great work. Also- get some good bar stock, mill your tool post dovetail through the entire length, cut them up in the band saw, then drill/tap, and mill the slot, blue them and you'll have a huge assortment of dedicated holders.
I very much appreciate that! Ironically I've wire brushed rusty steel at time, but not for the chuck mounting side. I'll do it on the end to cut so there isn't as much rust dust kicked up in the air. Tool holders are going to be very soon for sure. I just have a few other projects I've been pushing off that I'd like to knock out first
Your machining skills and designing skills are very impressive, but I got to say your video editing skills are equally impressive. Your intro and the way the videos are put together is amazing.
I feel like I’be become a fan of a channel that is going to be insanely popular very shortly. I wouldn’t be surprised to see you have 500k subs by the same time next year.
I'm a little late so this may not apply (watching you're series in order) When clamping something at the edge of you're vise, it's good practice to balance the other edge to prevent the moving jaw from canting. While it's only a minute angle, if you're taking heavy cuts the part has a tendency of lifting or moving from not having enough clamping surface. If my part is 3 inches long and overhanging the jaws even a small amount. I make sure to slide something of the same dimensions on the other side. It's fun when working with parallels and a table mounted stop lmao
FYI, if you get a left-handed threading tool you can run the lathe in reverse and feed out of the hole. That makes threading blind holes much less nerve-wracking, and permits getting threads very close to the bottom of a blind hole.
That's how I do it. You can also flip the tool that you used in the video upside down and cut O.D. threads in reverse. Joe Pieczynski has an in depth video on it.
The issue you were having with the thread pitch @8:26 is that you were using the compound slide at an angle to adjust your depth. In actuality, not only were you adjusting the depth of the cut, but also the position of the cutting point, resulting in a new thread pitch location, or a second thread. If you were going to use the compound slide for depth of cut, it needed to be perpendicular to the workpiece. BTW, thanks for the channel. It's reminded me of my first year as an apprentice with Lucas forty years ago, when we pretty much did what you're doing now. Although we did have to file the "Cube of Doom" as part of our benchwork, which then had to fit the "Square hole for the Cube of Doom".
Glad you like the channel! I considered making a pair of 123 blocks by hand like my grandfather mentioned used to be a standard apprentice project. But decided my time would be better spent elsewhere. Also on the thread cutting, the issue was actually that the lead screw for my lathe is intended for TPI so the thread dial doesn't apply for the metric threads I was cutting. I just have to leave it engaged or only engaged for the same mark on the same revolution. Using the compound set to 60 degrees to adjust cut depth is standard practice and wouldn't cause the issue I was getting.
@@InheritanceMachining From a foggy memory, projects included, cube, tombstone, screwdriver, planishing hammer, toolbox, toolbits box, scraper, tailstock tap & die holder, sine bar, parallel bars, scraper, precision mandril, location t-stops, engineers support (cast iron with offset locking screw) and a host of other bits 'n' bobs. We covered benchwork (lots and lots of filing), turning, milling (horizontal & vertical), welding, heat treatment, electrical wiring, plumbing. What they didn't tell you was the multiple trips to the onsite medical team for all minor cuts, and burns from swarf to the finger tips, the images they show you during your first week of "health & safety" (they were so graphic, that one young lad feinted, fell off his chair and fractured his arm - there's irony for you) and that the smell of hot metal and steaming coolant never leaves you.
@@ChumbahNutz Sounds like.a very intensive course. I imagine you still use some of those tools today? Im impressed it branched out into other disciplines as well.
I know this is one of those things that lots of people say on lots of creator's comment sections but I really do think it's great the way you leave "mistakes" in the final video. It can be really disheartening to watch people just cruise through jobs without a single hiccup, then you try and do something simpler and have it just be an avalanche of mistakes. Love the content, keep up the great work.
I appreciate you saying that. My hope is that others can maybe learn from them, and feel encouraged like you say. And at the very least I can poke fun at myself a little. Thanks for the support!
Well done. Just machined a MT-1 to 12mm 1mm pitch adapter for my wood lathe to attach a mini 4 jaw chuck for tiny part woodwork. When I heard your comment about lining up on a number with a presumably non metric drive screw I had a full on WTF moment...then I saw your sign and laughed pretty hard. As for your handle not lining up, would not have been a huge issue. I retrofitted my lathe with a existing handle I had made for an earlier machine, just shimmed under it with some large washers and if you and one a bit you can put it any angle you want...or just take a pass on the mill off the underside of your part. Regardless the god of lathe luck took pity on you at that final stage. Also thanks for the tip about the dial indicator on the tail stock for setting angles. My MT-1 angle of 1.4 degrees was a pain to set up and a tad bit wonky but still worked out. Next time it will be perfection!
😂 yeah I realize now that there was no way in hell a 4TPI lead screw was going to translate to anything metric on the thread dial. So obvious in hindsight! Also if the handle was any more off than it was I probably would have done exactly what you mentioned. A thought on the MT turning. I probably would have turned that between centers with a drive dog and offsetting the tailstock. I don't know about your lathe but my compound rest only has about 2 inches of travel (if that). Turning between centers would allow you to cut it all in one pass. And would also be very accurate on the angle
@@InheritanceMachining You are indeed correct about turning between centers...but I'm lazy and getting the tail stock back in perfect alignment is a pain requiring machining a metal rod and checking for taper etc. As for a MT-1 I only need about 1.5" of length on the taper it's not an issue and the compound rest will work...just barely lol
thats a fair point 😂 you actually just reminded me that the MT1 in my lathe spindle for my collet adaptor is only 1.5" long as well so that makes sense
beautiful work man. For some reason the camera shots where its from like right behind your head looking at a project totally crack me up. It feels like your mega excited
Grate video again. As I see you getting new skills. And methods. I can see you well on your way. I bet your grandfather would be proud. Keep up the great work
I found myself screaming at my screen, CHECK THE NUT ORIENTATION. On the other hand you make way less mistakes than I do so no big thing . Love the channel and your presentation style.
Small tip from someone using metric: Metric threads have standardtised pitch, so if you have the nominal diameter you can find the coresponding pitch in a table. There are some fine thread versions with lower pitch that don't cut as deep into the material, but those should be easy enough to tell apart from standard and aren't that common. Dunno if the imperial system works similar when it comes to threads.
I am building my own hobby shop piece by pice, i love this channel it is so intriguing and has some of the best videography of any machining channel i have seen.
Jim 922 from Arkansas, video number three, I enjoyed it very much! Your video quality is top-notch. i’ll be watching more of your work soon. Thanks for giving me the opportunity to follow along. Good Job!
On another channel they add a thrust bearing under the new nut, I tried this and it vastly reduces the work to tighten the nut, making the shorter handle work better. It also raises the nut a bit, so the gap between the two handles is larger
When you put the nut in the mill I was confused that you hadn’t tested to see where the handle would land. I figured you knew something that I didn’t, like perhaps you planned on adding washers or shimming the difference after it was done. Very nice work though. I am truly envious of your shop. Although I’m sure you’d love to spend some more time with your grandfather, having an inheritance shop could feel like you’re still making memories with him every time you step through the door.
Literally 😂 thanks! I've used that technique a time or to. actually tried it here but had a hard time since the inner face was a smaller diameter and couldn't get a good position.
Changing a part that still works, to find a reason to make a tool we didn't have. I guess we're taking the long way around! 🤪 Great work! I'm glad you're taking us on this little adventure with you.
Glad I watched this. Stoped for lunch and my next op is cutting some metric treads on a part. I forgot about not disengaging the half nut and definitely would of scraped that part. Thanks for the reminder.
Just ran across your channel and in spite of the "oops", "what the Hell was I thinking" episodes, you did a GREAT job.. I'm planning to build one of these for both my 13" and 16" Southbends.. Thanks for showing you're human like the rest of us. As a result, you've just got another "subscriber".. Razor!
@@InheritanceMachining That's how we all learn things. Your grandfather would be proud of your efforts and successes. I really enjoy your down to earth presentations. Thanks.
Nice build. I pinned a wrench onto my QCTP nut for a few weeks before deciding make a new nut and handle, just to make sure it's a change I wanted. I used a bent and cut wrench to simulate what a handle would be like. I found I didn't like it and decided to just hang a wrench close by.
Looks like you have those metric treads figured out. An old machinist buddy always told me, on a lathe with a standard lead screw to never disengage the half nuts when threading metric, I'm not 100% sure as to why, but it works. I really like your tool post handle mod, what a pain it is to grab an combo or hex wrench every time you need to move the tool post. Great job!
Thanks Mark! There were some pretty good explanations in this comment section about exactly why it doesn't work. Basically comes down to the thread dial gear being arranged for english engagement intervals. Apparently you can swap out or make your own gear and dial to "translate" to metric
having a youtuber that put his errors in is extremly usefull because in machining, i feel like you can only learn from your own mistake(or the mistake of others, so suffer for my sake)
your video brought back some memories.... haven't used a drawing board and paper in a long time. Took drafting in college in the mid 80's. My class was the last to use boards, paper, pencils. CAD (2D) was taught there after.
interesting... my high school vocational classes included 3 years of drafting then a 4th year of 2D CAD. if it weren't for that I may not have the same interest
Good to go. That reminds me how i cut inch threats on metric lathe. Same story. When i made a tool holder nut on my lathe i adjust the position of handle just like you.
It would probably help to really dig into and test the engagement points and make a separate tag for the opposite threads. If i get into any more metric stuff it will be a necessity
Boy did that bring back some memories. I actually started on T-Square and triangle back in Jr High school in 1963 when draftsmen were highly skilled people. I really miss my K&E full track machine (Never had the heart to sell or scrap it but it lives in the attic now) We all had very unique lettering and even arrow heads and other style. You could tell who did a drawing without ever looking at the title blocks. ,,,,, But alas, today I use AutoCad. Hey, at least I still use Dr. French's "Glass Box" to visualize what I am designing. I'm looking up at his book up on the shelf over the computer. I haven't ;looked inside it dor decades, though. Looks like I'm one of the last of the Mohicans for sure. All I see anymore are kids making pretty pictures with Solid Works. Pretty good to generate G-code, but it leaves a lot to be desired when a tool maker needs a working drawing. ,,,,, But then tool and die makers are a dying breed too. Good idea for the nut, but mostly, like Mr. Hope said. Thanks for the memories.
Thanks for sharing! I relate to your sentiment about kids making pretty drawings in CAD. I came from the drafting board as well and it seems to me that those that didn't don't understand the importance of drawing cleanliness and the importance of the dimensions they show as it relates to the machining. Thanks for the support!
looks good! Some day I'll have room for a lathe; and a milling machine. Great work, great result! It's nice to use the machine to make parts for the machne.
Realy nice :) always a joy when you release one of your videos, hoping to see more in an near future :) Love that you keep it real, sometimes you have to make mistakes to learn from it :)
I hope the outcome made the mistakes hurt less, because I think you nailed the look of this thing! It definitely looks like it could be original. Keep up the great work!
Very nice job. Hopefully you get great use out of it my friend for many years to come. Can't wait to see more videos soon. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend. Keep Making. God bless.
Threading dials are (almost) worthless when cutting metric threads on a imperial lead screw or vice versa. The half-nuts must engage in the same exact position in the lead screw. The easiest method I've found for threading blind metric wholes, is to mark the dial as you did. When approaching the end of the cut, disengage the half-nuts and outfeed the cross-slide as usual, and then stop the machine. You can then run the machine in reverse, running the threading dial backwards until you reach your mark, then reengage half-nuts to extract the tool from the bore.
Watching this video reminded me when I made my entire QCTP and I done exact same thing you done milling the flats before checking position. I also got lucky that day.
@@InheritanceMachining So far so good. Does it have the same clamping force as the sliding dovetail… No but for the simplicity of a cam and locking pin it works well. For me was also a great project to have a play with all the tools in the workshop. Keep doing what your doing dude and will be good to see what you think to my series. 👍
Haven't read through all the other posts to see if someone else has already mentioned it. But if your lathe has a imperial leadscrew you can't use the threading dial to cut metric threads. Well you kinda can but not in the normal sense. It's more a disengage to stop the lathe safely then back up and re-engage rather than timing it. So you pick a spot on the threading dial, this is the only one you will use for the entire time. Engage half nuts, cut thread at end of thread disengage half nuts, stop spindle, back tool out At this point the threading dial has probably rotated 1/4-1/2 a turn past your mark put the spindle in reverse and watch your threading dial, it will spin the other way and come back to your mark, when it gets back to your mark engage the half nuts again and let the tool come back to the start of your cut. take your next pass, rinse and repeat. The caveat here is if you are running high spindle speed or are slow on stopping your spindle there is a chance you will go past a full rotation on the dial. So you could potentially come back to what you think is the starting point, but is actually out by a rotation on your threading dial. I was working on a way to use a imperial leadscrew lathe to cut metric threads while still being able to use the half nuts properly but ran into a problem that not all lathe's with imperial leadscrews cut true metric threads. Basically the smaller / cheaper ones only approximate the thread pitch. It's good enough for most things but also causes some issues, especially on longer threaded sections as the small error starts to add up.
I had a few people describe a process exactly like you mentioned. I'll definitely be using this in future as it seems way safer! Im not certain on ym lathe whether it's approximating metric threads or if they are true. there is an internal change gear actuated by a lever (separate from the ones you actually swap out) so it may be true metric. bight be an interesting test to make some long external passes and measure
17:23 I've watched a bunch of your videos now, and not in chronological order. I had no idea that you had made that part yourself, as it looks a perfect match for the rest of the machine. The original handle makes it blend in seamlessly with the look of the machine. Great job! :D
When cutting metric threads on a lathe with an inch leadscrew you have no choice but to stay at the same place on your threading dial. This means either keeping your half nut engaged or when terminating your thread disengaging, immediately shutting off your spindle, then kicking it in reverse and reengaging at the same number. If your dial goes a full revolution you will lose your spot on the leadscrew and have to pick back up your thread. Abom79 has a great video explaining his method on threading metric if you’re interested. Love the content!
Thanks for the explanation/tip. This is one of those nuanced things that I didn't even think to look up. I didn't know what I didn't know... but now I know 😂 Thanks for the support
Nice addition Brandon. For the last mill operation small parts are best mounted in the centre of the vice jaws unless there is a feature which restricts it.The jaws go out of parallel quite easily with an offset part and lose their ability to hold firmly.
Thanks Michael. Yeah I got a little hasty there. Did it to one side so I could use the vise base as my angle reference. In hindsight I should have laid a parallel or something else down to span the middle.
@@InheritanceMachining Just for fun and education put a dial test indicator on the moving jaw and clamp a part on one end of the vice.It may surprise you.Check the fixed jaw the same way for another surprise.The steel in vices is closely related to Pasta in some cases.
Watching this and planning to go do the same thing to my PM 1440 Taiwanese lathe. I think the toolpost screw is a normal, unified, not-metric thread, but...if it is metric, I think I'll make one that is unified. Pretty sure I'd have to put in a new gear set to do metric. And definitely never thread INTO the chuck. I'm tooled to always cut while moving the saddle away from the chuck. Thanks for the inspiration.
in our shop we have a dial indicator to set tool height just perfect, its great to have, with a master block to zero just by standing them next to the tool post.
Another enjoyable video, I love the attention to detail and the fact that you show all the mess ups. Just to throw this out there as a potential topic for a video… I really like your cold blueing results. I’ve struggled to get a consistent finish on parts with a small bottle of Brownells blueing and cotton balls. Could you talk about your process including prep and material source and costs? Thanks.
Thanks! I might have to do a little more detail on that in a future project. Just for you right now though take a look at Caswell Plating. Their kit is the one I use and I basically just follow the directions and get pretty decent results.
I earned a degree in Design Drafting back before CAD was mainstream. I really appreciate seeing you using pencil and paper to design your parts. Would I use paper and pencil? Not unless I didn’t have my computer. Kudos to you for taking me back to the good ol’ days of line weights and eraser guards.
Thanks for watching everyone! Be sure to tune in Friday, August 5th for another fun project! If you'd like to tackle this project yourself I have some drawings on my Patreon that might be helpful!
With metric threads on an imperial lathe you need to turn it off and not disengage the half nut. retract. run lathe in reverse, then go in for the next pass. even hiitting the same mark on the thread cutting die you wont re enter the thread at the same point
When hatching a section, the internal thread must also be hatched, since it is located in the body of the part.
The part itself could be sharpened with a cone in the opposite direction, then the perpendicularity of the end and the average diameter of the thread would be ideal, and the less important upper end could be cut from the second setting. Or trim the end on a threaded mandrel.
It would also be good to harden the nut to 35-38 HRC, this will increase its durability.
In general, thoughtful and pleasant work, it's great!
What's the name of the precise line/length sketchinging thing you use in drafting part of your design that would make so much stuff more streamlined. Please and thank you someone
@@hjdt1 Ironically enough, it's called a drafting machine
@@R3dryuu It's still possible. You can disengage half-nuts, retract, stop the machine, and then run the machine (and threading dial) backwards until you hit the same mark on the threading dial, before re-engaging to extract the tool. As long as you don't allow the dial to make a full rotation before stopping the machine, the half-nuts will engage in the exact same spot on the lead screw, and the threads will line up fine.
Don't worry about it. We've all made questionable tool choices. Post nut clarity comes for us all.
😂 😂
Ah, a man of culture.
Well done good sir.
Truth you have spoken brother. You're a scholar and a gentleman!
Speaking of post-nut, i need to send something to The Duchess!
ua-cam.com/video/szKhmHPslz0/v-deo.html
Excellent as always
Nice to see you here colin
Thanks, Colin!
I feel like an "Inheritance Machining" stamp for your drawings may be a interesting project
Also will keep other people from taking snips of his videos without permission. There is a reason Diresta has his name on everything, and then Oxtools did something similar.
@@rpatrick2
I once did a drinking game with a friend of mine: A sip of beer each time one appeares on screen and a shot each time he applies one ...
As a CAD designer - I must say that , i enjoy watching a guy do a technical drawing by hand. Im in ave. Did this in my studies, and many times it was pain in the a... But now when i seesomeone draw things they want / need to do by hand it is kinda mesmerizing.
Thanks! I'm a CAD designer as well and it's absolutely a more tortuous process to do by hand. But I spend enough time looking at screens so it's a nice break.
@@InheritanceMachiningI can't blame you because screens are everywhere so it is nice to get away from them
Machining content is great and all, but seeing how you elegantly recover from your mishaps is what got me hooked.
It's amazing you still have your manual drafting skills intact. I took drafting in high school and I forgot it all. The little I do remember made learning CAD super easy.
I feel like I don't remember much at all haha just drawing lines with a ruler. I'd definitely have to go back and review all the cool compass techniques for drawing polygons and bisecting angles and whatnot.
@Dan Carlson Yeah, there was a lot of attention to the title block as if it was more important than the drawing itself.
I still remember a comment that my 10th grade (1963) drafting instructor made. Draftsmen will always have a job. Before anything is manufactured someone has to draw a picture of it.
Keep showing your mistakes because it makes all of us realize that teacher is the best.
Absolutely true. Thanks!
Brilliant! As an engineer who designs parts and creates drawings for various manufacturing processes , I always dream of owning a small machine shop. I love the methods you devise to stay within intended tolerance and of course the drafting!
Thank you!
If you have an imperial leadscrew and want to cut metric threads, leaving the halfnuts engaged and reversing out is your only option because the leadscrew pitch is not related to the thread pitch. No changes to the threading dial could fix that. Same goes for imperial threads on a metric machine.
Not so. You can disengage the halfnuts, stop the spindle, move the tool clear of the threads, reverse the lathe then reengage as the same number comes round. The caveat is that the threading dial cannot make a full revolution. Its effectively like keeping the half nuts engaged but with the ability to stop the tool motion immediately. There are a number of contributors on youtube who have demonstrated this technique.
@@ThePottingShedWorkshop Yeah ok true, and I've even done that, but I couldn't think of a quick way to describe it. You did a good job! Leaving the halfnuts engaged is easier most of the time but this technique is great if you're threading to a shoulder or something where you have to end the thread in a narrow window.
@@ThePottingShedWorkshop I was going to say the same thing as you have said. I also check the comments before I post my comment so as to not double up. My main reason for replying to you is to keep your comment near the top so others can be informed of this method. Cheers from John, Australia.
Thanks guys, I learned something I’ll try. I almost exclusively make metric threads on my Southbend Nordic which is an imperial lead screw machine. So far I have just kept the half-nut engaged which just feels bad somehow.
this is a most helpful tip. I have a vintage WW2 Monarch Lathe I'll be bringing back under power soon and there are times when I may need to cut a metric thread. Thanks!
Great job, thanks for showing the mistakes. I have a lot of respect for the integrity you demonstrate in your videos. As always, I'm certain your grandfather would be pleased.
Very much appreciated. Thanks for the support!
It's a bit controversial with experienced machinists but for threading (especially blind) it can be less scraptastic to thread from left to right. Joe Pi has a video with all of the details but basically you flip the tool upside down and reverse the motor. It sounds ridiculous but the results can be quite nice.
I believe you can also use an internal threading tool but hold it on the back side of the work and run in reverse
I've seen this (not by Joe Pi) but I think it takes an opposite hand cutter from what I have. Flipping mine would still require the lathe to run forward, even if I'm cutting on the back side of the bore. Then feeding out would make a left-hand thread. I should get the opposite hand tool since i would prefer to pull out of the bore rather than in
@@InheritanceMachining If the spindle and drive shaft are rotating in the same direction then it will cut a right handed thread, I think, regardless of whether the motor is running forward or backward.
@@OhHeyTrevorFlowers yep
Yeah Joe Py is a wizard
I love these videos. A self fulfilling hobby is always cool to see. I've only handled a Bridgeport mill once, but it was a memorable experience. Met the man through friends from church. He is a motorcycle builder in his spare time now, but he is a self trained engine expert. He used to make parts for F1 and the skill he showed proved it. Wise and patient man. I'll never forget it. Can't wait to build my own shop one day.
That's awesome. One thing is for sure, once you catch the machining bug it never goes away. Good luck on the shop build!
I've said it before, but I'll say it again. I appreciate seeing your mistakes. It reminds everyone that making mistakes is part of making. Everyone does it and everyone just has to try to learn from their mistakes.
Thanks. That's my hope by including them. If someone can learn from watching me mess up then it's worth sharing
As always, an absolute pleasure to watch. Thanks.
Much appreciated!
Well done, love the honest discussion of bumps and how to work around them!
much appreciated!
As someone who only has access to a lathe by being on a engineering competition design team in college, I've never really had any training on how to use/set up a lathe. The only training I've received is This Old Tony and maybe a few others. Now that I've found your channel, it's unfortunately time to graduate and I'll lose my access. But wow, I really wish I could have found your channel a while ago because you not only show the chips flying but you provide the problem statement, proposed solution, design process, machining setup, actual machining, and the finished product in use. Its incredible and I love every aspect of your videos. Especially the machining setup, you always provide some real helpful pieces of advice or simply explain how you set the tool up. Thank you!
Love this channel because I am in the middle of my apprenticeship and still have a lot to learn about machining (especially with the lathe) and while watching your videos I always try to think of the way I would have done the part.
That's great! There's always a different or better way to make a part. Which is fortunately since not every shop has the same tooling
It's attractive to me that you show your mistakes. This is somehow comforting and how we learn.
My father taught Mechanical Drawing and Architectural Drafting for 30 years. I got as much enjoyment out of watching your drafting skills as I did your machine work. A lost art to be sure.
I'm glad! thanks for watching!
You could say you're a nut for a better tool post... or not.
There's something a little bit more satisfying about improving one's tools or workspace.
I'm in the midst of a much needed 25+ yr remodel/re-org of my shop. When I bought the place in '98, I had to put in 6 mos of remodeling before moving in.
I emptied the shop, threw tools & shelving/cabs from previous shop in, & went to work. Over the years, more equipment & tools were added until I had passage ways, cramped work spaces & small auxilary shops.
I finally had enough as I came out of chemo recovery last year & started planning an expansion & re-org.
It's so satisfying to be painting, wiring, creating new, more efficient storage & seeing a more organized total work area take shape.
You're an inspiration for doing things right, even if it takes a few tries.
GeoD
A trick I use when cutting internal threads is to cut a recess at finished size. In this case 22mm 1/4 deep into the part to be sacrificially machined away when threading operation is finished. As soon as the cutter leaves a trace mark on the recessed inner diameter you know your at the correct thread depth.. Its very advantageous when working with large sizes that no test thread can be had or used. Keep up the great content.
Your videos are really good. And your voice, calm narration and dry humor make your videos quite the relaxing watch. I think you're my new favorite machinist channel. Thanks for all your effort!
I really appreciate that. Thanks so much for the support!
Perfect timing!!! Just the other day, I too was looing at the top nut on my tool holder thinking it could use a handle. As a fabricator, not a machinist, my first thought was to make a handle to tig weld to the existing nut. However your end result it MUCH more desirable. Guess I better figure out my thread pitches and get my taps ordered. Thank you. You are an inspiration.
I mean nothing wrong with the welding method either, but a machined nut will be much prettier. good luck!
Just subscribed, anybody that admits to being as human as the rest of us is exactly where information and entertainment meet, well done!
I really appreciate you saying that! Welcome!
Well done. Thanks for showing the mistakes also. So many times tubers cut out the mistakes and it helps so much more to see them so we all get to learn along with you. So much appreciated and makes watching that much more fun. Great job!
Thanks a lot! I'm happy to share the mistakes because just about anyone can relate and/or learn from them. Plus sometimes they are funny
No side projects? Unsubbed. 😀
😂 a rare occurrence for sure...
Side Project count? Zero
Next week we'll find out it was all one big side project.
Actually he's making a nut for the lathe before he can make a part for the mill, which is needed to make a fixture for the belt sander, to make a part for the press, which is removing a part from the surface grinder, which is being used to sharpen his pencil to design the part needed to get the wife off his back.
@@lolzlarkin3059 so they are all side projects
@@michael7324 Yes.
The original project was to set up a shop to play with the cool tools. After that it is shadow boxing to hide the original project.
Warning: Once you have convinced the better half that nearly anything makeable or repairable can be made or fixed with the addition of just one tool per project. The tool come frequently and the projects come even faster. 😁😎
So glad I just found this channel. So much information packed into every episode, and your style is such a joy to watch.
I binged every video over two days, and I already can't wait to see more. Thanks for sharing!
Very much appreciated! Thanks for watching and the support!
Sub'd awhile ago, just started to look at past offerings. So, here now. ' Made' same thing earlier, allowed for 'mistakes', finished it, then turned it down to get handle in right position. Know my usual type of mistakes, so allow for them. Gets the job done. Thanks for all your videos.
it fun that every new project needs a learning curve to be climbed.
Great video and I've been really enjoying the whole series. Thank you!
I thought I'd try and explain the threading dial a bit and why it went wrong, hopefully this helps
One way to think about the threading dial is that it's measuring distance moved of the carriage relative to the lead screw. If you set the dial on a mark, then move the carriage 1 inch with the half-nuts disengaged, you should see the dial land on another mark. I would guess that your dial is set to measure 2 inches for a full rotation, then 1 inch between the 0 marks, half an inch between 0&A marks, etc.
The reason why this works so well for inch threads is that they're specified in teeth per inch so, if you have a whole number of TPI and you move the carriage one inch along the thread, it will always land back in the thread no matter what the pitch is. If you've got an even number of TPI, you can get away with moving any multiple of half an inch, and so on.
This all falls apart with metric threads because they're specified by pitch instead of teeth per , so it's hard to find some relative distance between the carriage & lead screw that will be guaranteed to be a multiple of the pitch. Lining up on one mark on the threading dial simply set that distance to 2 inches, which definitely doesn't divide nicely by any metric pitches.
Ah... that totally makes sense... If thats the case then one time engagement technique will be the only way to cut metric threads with my lathe. Thanks for the explanation!
@@InheritanceMachining my thread dial came with an interchangeable set of gears that engage the leadscrew, one for metric and one for imperial.
Metric threads read distance between teeth (ex. M22x2.0 is a 22mm diameter with teeth every 2mm). Most imperial lathes require you to leave the half nut engaged, and reverse the motor so the timing remains intact. This Old Tony has a very good video from a few years ago documenting all this you might enjoy watching.
@@InheritanceMachining This is the way I cut metric threads on a standard manual machine, you could try this and see how you like it. I will engage the half nuts like usual on say 0 then when I get to the end of the thread I will disengage the half nut and turn off the machine. (Back to cross slide out obviously) Then put the machine in reverse and engage the half nuts back on the zero in reverse when you hit it. As long as you don't make a full rotation on the dial and then go for it, it should work.
@@Anonymousg64 interesting… I just checked mine and the gear that engages the lead screw is 1:1 with the dial. Does yours have an internal gear reduction?
Hi, just something I used to do when I was machining parts, at 12:35 you was spending time trying to make sure parts were perpendicular in the lathe jaws, what I used to do what put a parallel behind the part covering the bore in the chuck and bumping my part against it, holding it flat as I close the jaws around it. Of course its not going to be as accurate as with using a DTI but itll get you closer
Getting the thickness of the nut just right is a nice touch. One thing about metric threads on an inch lathe is that you have to leave the halfnuts engaged once you start and only reverse the motor to wind out.
thanks! yeah it dawned on me how obvious that is once I realized my lead screw is 4TPI. I actually got a helpful tip on this as well. You can disengage in your stopping window then turn off the lathe. when you run in reverse pick it back up on the same mark. as long as the dial doesn't go all the way around you'll stay aligned
What a fine and clean workshop and a pleasure to listen to the explanations.
This was enlightening since I learned drafting with a sliding parallel, and have never used a drafting machine. They always seemed mysterious. Now I see their advantage. Is there play/deflection? Thank you for all you do for all of us!
There is a bit of deflection in the mechanism just because of how long the scales are so I have to be delicate with it. Thanks for the support!
As a newb, I appreciate you showing mistakes. It’s so helpful.
I'm glad! Thanks!
I really like the way you always tell a story. So relaxing to watch.
I'm glad! thank you
I really love your videos! Very inspiring. Good to see another perfectionist at work! Great personality and so glad you include you “elements of training” (mistakes) which are our best teachers!
Thank you so much!
Glad I'm not the only one who makes regular use of the f@#ket bucket during projects. A nice addition to your lathe
since I'm in the shop alone 99% of the time, thats probably the most common word spoken aloud in there. already spoiled by the handle. I love it
When cutting metric threads with an imperial lead screw you should not disengage the feed but stop and reverse out of the hole before starting your next cut. Works every time for me!
You will need to make a nice tool-height gauge for the lathe at some point as a side project. Especially on small diameters eyeballing it with the tailstock won't be good enough. Even a few tenths (yes, tenths of a mm) of height difference can mess up your infeed reading in regard to your actual depth of cut.
I have a height gauge on to-do my list for exactly that reason.
You can make a very simple but quick and efficient one by just turning say a 2" steel bar down to say 1 1/2" for say 5" on a bar that's about 6" long. The 5" length needs to be an accurate length that is the same as height from top face of cross slide to center height. You just sit the 'mushroom' shaped bar on the cross slide and adjust the tool height so the tool just slides under the 2" head. Worked very nice on a smaller lathe than yours. Hard to describe in text!
You videos are such a pleasure to watch. Keep up the great work!
Thank you so much!
As an amateur machinist I find your work informative and entertaining. Looking forward to the next show 👍
I appreciate that, thank you!
"A thing of beauty is a joy forever" - Johan Keats
Just so you Brandon to be honest about your mistakes and yet still build something so beautiful and functional. Thank you as always, loved your tool post nut story 🙂
Well said. Thanks as always!
Your channel is growing on me and I am just as excited when you upload a new video, as when I see This Old Tony, Blondie Hacks, etc. Really wish you the best!
That's awesome! Thank you so much!
Another great project, this is becoming one of my favorite channels.
😎 thanks a bunch!
As a retired tool & diemaker I can assure you there are always projects to be had. Love your videos!
You are the absolute fastest learning and highly achieving apprentice I have ever seen in the trade. Advanced principles you grasp quite easily. Really love the channel. My ONLY,ONLY advice (and possible without any merit) is I never insert rusty/dirty metal into my chucks. I with take it over to a wire wheel on the bench grinder and brush them of first. Can't say I was taught that in my early years or if it's my own OCD. Reality is the chuck jaws are hardened(both on the mill vises and chucks) but I think it is best practice. Keep up the great work.
Also- get some good bar stock, mill your tool post dovetail through the entire length, cut them up in the band saw, then drill/tap, and mill the slot, blue them and you'll have a huge assortment of dedicated holders.
I very much appreciate that! Ironically I've wire brushed rusty steel at time, but not for the chuck mounting side. I'll do it on the end to cut so there isn't as much rust dust kicked up in the air.
Tool holders are going to be very soon for sure. I just have a few other projects I've been pushing off that I'd like to knock out first
Your machining skills and designing skills are very impressive, but I got to say your video editing skills are equally impressive. Your intro and the way the videos are put together is amazing.
Thank you! But I have to give the editing credit to my wife. She's a huge part of all of this
It's always a good day when we learn something. The nut assembly came out beautifully.
Agreed! thanks so much!
I feel like I’be become a fan of a channel that is going to be insanely popular very shortly. I wouldn’t be surprised to see you have 500k subs by the same time next year.
Wouldn't that be something! I'll just keep plugging away! Thanks!
I'm a little late so this may not apply (watching you're series in order)
When clamping something at the edge of you're vise, it's good practice to balance the other edge to prevent the moving jaw from canting. While it's only a minute angle, if you're taking heavy cuts the part has a tendency of lifting or moving from not having enough clamping surface.
If my part is 3 inches long and overhanging the jaws even a small amount. I make sure to slide something of the same dimensions on the other side. It's fun when working with parallels and a table mounted stop lmao
I hate my brain for making me read the title the way I did.
FYI, if you get a left-handed threading tool you can run the lathe in reverse and feed out of the hole. That makes threading blind holes much less nerve-wracking, and permits getting threads very close to the bottom of a blind hole.
That's how I do it. You can also flip the tool that you used in the video upside down and cut O.D. threads in reverse. Joe Pieczynski has an in depth video on it.
The issue you were having with the thread pitch @8:26 is that you were using the compound slide at an angle to adjust your depth. In actuality, not only were you adjusting the depth of the cut, but also the position of the cutting point, resulting in a new thread pitch location, or a second thread. If you were going to use the compound slide for depth of cut, it needed to be perpendicular to the workpiece.
BTW, thanks for the channel. It's reminded me of my first year as an apprentice with Lucas forty years ago, when we pretty much did what you're doing now. Although we did have to file the "Cube of Doom" as part of our benchwork, which then had to fit the "Square hole for the Cube of Doom".
Glad you like the channel! I considered making a pair of 123 blocks by hand like my grandfather mentioned used to be a standard apprentice project. But decided my time would be better spent elsewhere.
Also on the thread cutting, the issue was actually that the lead screw for my lathe is intended for TPI so the thread dial doesn't apply for the metric threads I was cutting. I just have to leave it engaged or only engaged for the same mark on the same revolution. Using the compound set to 60 degrees to adjust cut depth is standard practice and wouldn't cause the issue I was getting.
@@InheritanceMachining From a foggy memory, projects included, cube, tombstone, screwdriver, planishing hammer, toolbox, toolbits box, scraper, tailstock tap & die holder, sine bar, parallel bars, scraper, precision mandril, location t-stops, engineers support (cast iron with offset locking screw) and a host of other bits 'n' bobs. We covered benchwork (lots and lots of filing), turning, milling (horizontal & vertical), welding, heat treatment, electrical wiring, plumbing. What they didn't tell you was the multiple trips to the onsite medical team for all minor cuts, and burns from swarf to the finger tips, the images they show you during your first week of "health & safety" (they were so graphic, that one young lad feinted, fell off his chair and fractured his arm - there's irony for you) and that the smell of hot metal and steaming coolant never leaves you.
@@ChumbahNutz Sounds like.a very intensive course. I imagine you still use some of those tools today? Im impressed it branched out into other disciplines as well.
I know this is one of those things that lots of people say on lots of creator's comment sections but I really do think it's great the way you leave "mistakes" in the final video. It can be really disheartening to watch people just cruise through jobs without a single hiccup, then you try and do something simpler and have it just be an avalanche of mistakes. Love the content, keep up the great work.
I appreciate you saying that. My hope is that others can maybe learn from them, and feel encouraged like you say. And at the very least I can poke fun at myself a little. Thanks for the support!
Well done. Just machined a MT-1 to 12mm 1mm pitch adapter for my wood lathe to attach a mini 4 jaw chuck for tiny part woodwork. When I heard your comment about lining up on a number with a presumably non metric drive screw I had a full on WTF moment...then I saw your sign and laughed pretty hard. As for your handle not lining up, would not have been a huge issue. I retrofitted my lathe with a existing handle I had made for an earlier machine, just shimmed under it with some large washers and if you and one a bit you can put it any angle you want...or just take a pass on the mill off the underside of your part. Regardless the god of lathe luck took pity on you at that final stage.
Also thanks for the tip about the dial indicator on the tail stock for setting angles. My MT-1 angle of 1.4 degrees was a pain to set up and a tad bit wonky but still worked out. Next time it will be perfection!
😂 yeah I realize now that there was no way in hell a 4TPI lead screw was going to translate to anything metric on the thread dial. So obvious in hindsight! Also if the handle was any more off than it was I probably would have done exactly what you mentioned.
A thought on the MT turning. I probably would have turned that between centers with a drive dog and offsetting the tailstock. I don't know about your lathe but my compound rest only has about 2 inches of travel (if that). Turning between centers would allow you to cut it all in one pass. And would also be very accurate on the angle
@@InheritanceMachining You are indeed correct about turning between centers...but I'm lazy and getting the tail stock back in perfect alignment is a pain requiring machining a metal rod and checking for taper etc. As for a MT-1 I only need about 1.5" of length on the taper it's not an issue and the compound rest will work...just barely lol
thats a fair point 😂 you actually just reminded me that the MT1 in my lathe spindle for my collet adaptor is only 1.5" long as well so that makes sense
Its always pleasing when the plan and the minor mishaps work together to make a very pleasant wiggly turny top knut grippy thingy 😁
😂 So that's what it's called?
beautiful work man. For some reason the camera shots where its from like right behind your head looking at a project totally crack me up. It feels like your mega excited
Grate video again. As I see you getting new skills. And methods. I can see you well on your way. I bet your grandfather would be proud. Keep up the great work
Thanks so much!
I found myself screaming at my screen, CHECK THE NUT ORIENTATION. On the other hand you make way less mistakes than I do so no big thing .
Love the channel and your presentation style.
😂 I had many less than nice words with myself after i realized my mistake. Good thing I got kind of lucky. Thanks for the support!
Small tip from someone using metric: Metric threads have standardtised pitch, so if you have the nominal diameter you can find the coresponding pitch in a table. There are some fine thread versions with lower pitch that don't cut as deep into the material, but those should be easy enough to tell apart from standard and aren't that common.
Dunno if the imperial system works similar when it comes to threads.
I am building my own hobby shop piece by pice, i love this channel it is so intriguing and has some of the best videography of any machining channel i have seen.
thanks so much!
Jim 922 from Arkansas, video number three, I enjoyed it very much! Your video quality is top-notch. i’ll be watching more of your work soon. Thanks for giving me the opportunity to follow along. Good Job!
I should be thanking you for supporting ME for watching the videos haha thank you!
Working my way through the catalogue. This was one of my faves
This is quickly becoming a favorite machinery channel.
😎 thanks, man!
On another channel they add a thrust bearing under the new nut, I tried this and it vastly reduces the work to tighten the nut, making the shorter handle work better. It also raises the nut a bit, so the gap between the two handles is larger
When you put the nut in the mill I was confused that you hadn’t tested to see where the handle would land. I figured you knew something that I didn’t, like perhaps you planned on adding washers or shimming the difference after it was done. Very nice work though.
I am truly envious of your shop. Although I’m sure you’d love to spend some more time with your grandfather, having an inheritance shop could feel like you’re still making memories with him every time you step through the door.
Literally 😂 thanks! I've used that technique a time or to. actually tried it here but had a hard time since the inner face was a smaller diameter and couldn't get a good position.
Changing a part that still works, to find a reason to make a tool we didn't have. I guess we're taking the long way around! 🤪 Great work! I'm glad you're taking us on this little adventure with you.
Guilty 😂 thanks!
I felt the high and lows in this project too 😂 so satisfying how it came together
Glad I watched this. Stoped for lunch and my next op is cutting some metric treads on a part. I forgot about not disengaging the half nut and definitely would of scraped that part. Thanks for the reminder.
Nice! glad I could be a reminder!
Just ran across your channel and in spite of the "oops", "what the Hell was I thinking" episodes, you did a GREAT job..
I'm planning to build one of these for both my 13" and 16" Southbends..
Thanks for showing you're human like the rest of us. As a result, you've just got another "subscriber"..
Razor!
Nice job. I appreciate you sharing your "learning experiences". That handle looks perfect.
much appreciated, Bill! I'm definitely not an expert so I'm doing my best not to give that impression. But hopefully others learn from my mistakes
@@InheritanceMachining That's how we all learn things. Your grandfather would be proud of your efforts and successes. I really enjoy your down to earth presentations. Thanks.
Thanks again, Bill!
Nice build. I pinned a wrench onto my QCTP nut for a few weeks before deciding make a new nut and handle, just to make sure it's a change I wanted. I used a bent and cut wrench to simulate what a handle would be like. I found I didn't like it and decided to just hang a wrench close by.
Looks like you have those metric treads figured out. An old machinist buddy always told me, on a lathe with a standard lead screw to never disengage the half nuts when threading metric, I'm not 100% sure as to why, but it works. I really like your tool post handle mod, what a pain it is to grab an combo or hex wrench every time you need to move the tool post. Great job!
Thanks Mark! There were some pretty good explanations in this comment section about exactly why it doesn't work. Basically comes down to the thread dial gear being arranged for english engagement intervals. Apparently you can swap out or make your own gear and dial to "translate" to metric
having a youtuber that put his errors in is extremly usefull because in machining, i feel like you can only learn from your own mistake(or the mistake of others, so suffer for my sake)
An obvious fix to even a non-machinist like me, but a beautiful end product that looks original to the machine. Nice work!
your video brought back some memories.... haven't used a drawing board and paper in a long time.
Took drafting in college in the mid 80's. My class was the last to use boards, paper, pencils. CAD (2D) was taught there after.
interesting... my high school vocational classes included 3 years of drafting then a 4th year of 2D CAD. if it weren't for that I may not have the same interest
Good to go. That reminds me how i cut inch threats on metric lathe. Same story. When i made a tool holder nut on my lathe i adjust the position of handle just like you.
It would probably help to really dig into and test the engagement points and make a separate tag for the opposite threads. If i get into any more metric stuff it will be a necessity
Boy did that bring back some memories. I actually started on T-Square and triangle back in Jr High school in 1963 when draftsmen were highly skilled people. I really miss my K&E full track machine (Never had the heart to sell or scrap it but it lives in the attic now) We all had very unique lettering and even arrow heads and other style. You could tell who did a drawing without ever looking at the title blocks. ,,,,, But alas, today I use AutoCad. Hey, at least I still use Dr. French's "Glass Box" to visualize what I am designing. I'm looking up at his book up on the shelf over the computer. I haven't ;looked inside it dor decades, though. Looks like I'm one of the last of the Mohicans for sure. All I see anymore are kids making pretty pictures with Solid Works. Pretty good to generate G-code, but it leaves a lot to be desired when a tool maker needs a working drawing. ,,,,, But then tool and die makers are a dying breed too.
Good idea for the nut, but mostly, like Mr. Hope said. Thanks for the memories.
Thanks for sharing! I relate to your sentiment about kids making pretty drawings in CAD. I came from the drafting board as well and it seems to me that those that didn't don't understand the importance of drawing cleanliness and the importance of the dimensions they show as it relates to the machining. Thanks for the support!
looks good!
Some day I'll have room for a lathe; and a milling machine. Great work, great result! It's nice to use the machine to make parts for the machne.
Thanks! That's one of the best parts of having a machine shop 😁 I hope you sort yours out as well!
Realy nice :) always a joy when you release one of your videos, hoping to see more in an near future :)
Love that you keep it real, sometimes you have to make mistakes to learn from it :)
Much appreciated!
I hope the outcome made the mistakes hurt less, because I think you nailed the look of this thing! It definitely looks like it could be original. Keep up the great work!
I'm pretty good at rolling with the punches... even when I curse like a sailor 😂 thanks, Jay!
Yep this is a great useful mod I did mine, but I got rid of the plastic handles with some nicely made brass knurled ones cheers.
Dude one of the best channels on UA-cam.
Very much appreciated. Thanks man!
Very nice job. Hopefully you get great use out of it my friend for many years to come. Can't wait to see more videos soon. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend. Keep Making. God bless.
Thanks!
The UA-cam algorithm finally recommended a great channel. I enjoyed this video 👍and subscribed.
Welcome!
Threading dials are (almost) worthless when cutting metric threads on a imperial lead screw or vice versa. The half-nuts must engage in the same exact position in the lead screw. The easiest method I've found for threading blind metric wholes, is to mark the dial as you did. When approaching the end of the cut, disengage the half-nuts and outfeed the cross-slide as usual, and then stop the machine. You can then run the machine in reverse, running the threading dial backwards until you reach your mark, then reengage half-nuts to extract the tool from the bore.
As always a great and informative video. Well done sir.
thanks!
Watching this video reminded me when I made my entire QCTP and I done exact same thing you done milling the flats before checking position. I also got lucky that day.
we have been graced by the shop gods. I'll check out your series when I get a chance but I'm curious how you like the plunger style QCTP?
@@InheritanceMachining So far so good. Does it have the same clamping force as the sliding dovetail… No but for the simplicity of a cam and locking pin it works well. For me was also a great project to have a play with all the tools in the workshop.
Keep doing what your doing dude and will be good to see what you think to my series. 👍
@@MachiningwithJoe that makes sense. yeah I was going to say that seems like a very involved project. Looking forward to seeing how you did it
Haven't read through all the other posts to see if someone else has already mentioned it. But if your lathe has a imperial leadscrew you can't use the threading dial to cut metric threads. Well you kinda can but not in the normal sense. It's more a disengage to stop the lathe safely then back up and re-engage rather than timing it.
So you pick a spot on the threading dial, this is the only one you will use for the entire time.
Engage half nuts, cut thread
at end of thread disengage half nuts, stop spindle, back tool out
At this point the threading dial has probably rotated 1/4-1/2 a turn past your mark
put the spindle in reverse and watch your threading dial, it will spin the other way and come back to your mark, when it gets back to your mark engage the half nuts again and let the tool come back to the start of your cut.
take your next pass, rinse and repeat.
The caveat here is if you are running high spindle speed or are slow on stopping your spindle there is a chance you will go past a full rotation on the dial. So you could potentially come back to what you think is the starting point, but is actually out by a rotation on your threading dial.
I was working on a way to use a imperial leadscrew lathe to cut metric threads while still being able to use the half nuts properly but ran into a problem that not all lathe's with imperial leadscrews cut true metric threads. Basically the smaller / cheaper ones only approximate the thread pitch. It's good enough for most things but also causes some issues, especially on longer threaded sections as the small error starts to add up.
I had a few people describe a process exactly like you mentioned. I'll definitely be using this in future as it seems way safer! Im not certain on ym lathe whether it's approximating metric threads or if they are true. there is an internal change gear actuated by a lever (separate from the ones you actually swap out) so it may be true metric. bight be an interesting test to make some long external passes and measure
17:23 I've watched a bunch of your videos now, and not in chronological order. I had no idea that you had made that part yourself, as it looks a perfect match for the rest of the machine. The original handle makes it blend in seamlessly with the look of the machine. Great job! :D
Thanks!
When cutting metric threads on a lathe with an inch leadscrew you have no choice but to stay at the same place on your threading dial. This means either keeping your half nut
engaged or when terminating your thread disengaging, immediately shutting off your spindle, then kicking it in reverse and reengaging at the same number. If your dial goes a full revolution you will lose your spot on the leadscrew and have to pick back up your thread. Abom79 has a great video explaining his method on threading metric if you’re interested. Love the content!
Thanks for the explanation/tip. This is one of those nuanced things that I didn't even think to look up. I didn't know what I didn't know... but now I know 😂 Thanks for the support
Elegant design. To make this same idea, I simply welded a piece of rebar to an impact socket from Harbor Freight.
Beautiful. It#s just always nice to get a new Video. The toolpost looks amazing now. Don't tell them about the mistakes, if it works out in the end
Thanks! The mistakes are all part of the journey so I'm happy to share them
Nice addition Brandon.
For the last mill operation small parts are best mounted in the centre of the vice jaws unless there is a feature which restricts it.The jaws go out of parallel quite easily with an offset part and lose their ability to hold firmly.
Thanks Michael. Yeah I got a little hasty there. Did it to one side so I could use the vise base as my angle reference. In hindsight I should have laid a parallel or something else down to span the middle.
@@InheritanceMachining Just for fun and education put a dial test indicator on the moving jaw and clamp a part on one end of the vice.It may surprise you.Check the fixed jaw the same way for another surprise.The steel in vices is closely related to Pasta in some cases.
😂 😂 I'm almost afraid to look now!
@@InheritanceMachining Knowledge of Pasta is important in machining.
Watching this and planning to go do the same thing to my PM 1440 Taiwanese lathe. I think the toolpost screw is a normal, unified, not-metric thread, but...if it is metric, I think I'll make one that is unified. Pretty sure I'd have to put in a new gear set to do metric. And definitely never thread INTO the chuck. I'm tooled to always cut while moving the saddle away from the chuck. Thanks for the inspiration.
in our shop we have a dial indicator to set tool height just perfect, its great to have, with a master block to zero just by standing them next to the tool post.
Something like this is on my list! If I ever get into really small parts it will be a neccessity for sure
Another enjoyable video, I love the attention to detail and the fact that you show all the mess ups.
Just to throw this out there as a potential topic for a video… I really like your cold blueing results. I’ve struggled to get a consistent finish on parts with a small bottle of Brownells blueing and cotton balls. Could you talk about your process including prep and material source and costs? Thanks.
Thanks! I might have to do a little more detail on that in a future project. Just for you right now though take a look at Caswell Plating. Their kit is the one I use and I basically just follow the directions and get pretty decent results.
I earned a degree in Design Drafting back before CAD was mainstream. I really appreciate seeing you using pencil and paper to design your parts. Would I use paper and pencil? Not unless I didn’t have my computer. Kudos to you for taking me back to the good ol’ days of line weights and eraser guards.
thanks! by no means is it the fastest way to design, but I spend enough time at a computer as it is...