Looks good man!! I was thinking of doing this for an economical drift build.Nothing difficult a standard rtr car on way diff the same esc/motor combo just to have fun!! really cool!!
Cool idea for locking the diff, interesting! I should get me one of these guys, only because it is the closest I will ever get to owning a real GT3, hah!
I recently installed those rpm rod ends on my sprint 2 and my steering is ridiculously tight. Did you have this issue with yours and if so, how to did you resolve it? Great vids by the way, pretty much built my car through your tutorials. Countersteer mod is all i have left.
Hi, love your videos. Did you manage to fix the wobbly front left tyre you pointed out in this video, I thought with just replacing the ball caps with RPM's would do the trick
The link for the RPM ball cups is in the video description (you need 2 packs), the GPM steering rack, you find here: www.asiatees.com/display?HPI-Sprint-2-Parts-Hop-Ups-Upgrades&brand=HPI&model=Sprint%202&id=41867&pid=1
The RCNetwork I have got the hopups your recommended then sloppyness has reduced 10-15 % not sure how much it will hold, but I can see the the remaining or most of the sloppyness is down to the ball cups , so this is going to be my next change.
Richard, I've just bought a HPI sprint 2 drift Camero and 350Z body, your videos on this sprint 2 provides me ideas on upgrades, thank you!! Are you doing a running video soon?
Hey Rich I cant remember which episode you mentioned you Hot glued your Rear diff but, I wanted to ask how the hot glue in the diff is holding up. I am thinking about doing the same.
If I could bother you this late after you posted the video, where are you located for ordering parts( town/city), where do you order from for sprint 2 parts
The RCNetwork thanks for the tip, it's going on my thought=creation board. Those silly HPI shocks are like $8 for a set of 4. I buy a lot of the 85mm and 100mm HPI shocks for my Maisto builds. They look pretty realistic when you remove the spring and just use the oil since my rigs are lightweight.
+ai van HPI went overboard on this Porsche body - The Rear wheels have a 14mm offset and fronts are 9mm. typically you offset the body based on a 200mm body running +9 in the rear and maybe +6 in the fronts. With this body, there's literally no aftermarket support other than the stock HPI wheels/tires
The HPI Sprint 2 vehicles (Sport, Drift and Flux) are great 50/50 platforms for a multitude of uses. The Sport and Drift platforms have brushed based electronics and the only other differences are the tires. Sport comes with grip tires, drift comes with hard plastic tires to help the "drift". The Flux version adds Castle Creation's re-branded HPI Flux brushless electronics and to this date, they only offer grip tires on the flux. All version can drift easily, but they're 50/50 platforms and may not be the "best" drifter on the block, but they're lots of fun. I have a ton of videos of the HPI Sprint 2 including the Porsche that I turned into a Toyota Supra drifter and also the GTR Mustang (very old videos! lol) that I did some speed runs with.
the thing is...i watched that video before I watch this one LOL...my real question is...to obtain or being able to drift... isn't the front oneway and locked rear diff is enough? + change the angle on the 2 front wheels to about 3. I read/heard that is really doesnt matter what you do to your car...at the end of the day the skill counts. I had a look around and some guy didnt even do front one way...just locked rear diff and god damn his car drift just the same way as those fully modded one...@_@ oddly enough? so...please help me by explaining...I got my sprint 2 sport camaro 1969 today...without the batteries and charger (what the fuck australia, as far as I know it came with a shitty charger and a 2000 lipo battery) so I'm getting my batteries and charger, also waiting for body pins to arrive so I can lock the rear diff...Yes I do want to mod the pulleys and belt but the 180 belt is out of stock still on asiatee, getting it off ebay is easy enough but the shipping isn't worth it...I would rather go full on with asiatee and get the freeshipping instead (front one way, pulleys, belt, universal dog bone..blad blad and maybe a body)
Skill is 90% of it in RC! You are right....Set up and decent electronics help. I've drifted a stock Sprint 2 with no issue, it was changing direction that messed with me. The locked rear def helped. CS helped even more. As for the no battery/charger thing.......in certain countries, HPI had issues obtaining the correct import (license) I believe or something to include those items, so they are just a bit cheaper as a result.
The RCNetwork you know I finally got the batteries yesterday + the charger today and guess what...yesterday I tried to connect the battery and tryna do the esc setting and sync the remote and so on...but the car has a fucking tamiya male plug and my batter has a female dean plug...had to order a connector....also I noticed how the front belt will be touching the battery and now I have to deal with that too...fucking hell hpi...should have got a cheap as tamiya drifting car...cost around $150-$180 -_-
The Castle SV3 (Sidewinder 3) is a great combo and a bit cheaper than the VXL. It will have a bit better topend for the sprint 2 as well (the VXL is really designed for an offroad truck). Grab the 5700kv option....
ok thanks for the respond i will buy the sidewinder the only problem is the Soldering i dont know how to solder but il try to look up videos in youtube "how to solder but thanks i will get it
+redline6871 Pretty much. 50/50 split cars like the HPI Sprint 2 are not the most ideal drift cars (There's now better chassis' available) but it will drift. The tough part on a 50/50 car is when you get into a drift and want to change direction....typically, you'll spin out
Awesome vid, my son and I are just getting into the drift seen and lovin it. When you have a chance check out RC CWR DRIFT INVASION #2 trailer for our up and coming drift event. Let us know what you think, Cheers
+PepsiMan There's pretty much 190mm and 200mm chassis (width) 190's were all electric chassis and 200mm were nitros. With all the different bodies, people started putting nitro (200mm) bodies on 190mm chassis, but the wheels (zero offset) would stick so far inside the wheel well. The addition of +3, +6, +9 and many other offsets allowed you to tuned the wheel to fill the wheel well to the edge, providing that deeper dish look to the rear wheel vs the front. Most 200mm bodies will need (approx) a +3-6mm in the front and a +6-9mm in the rear. Tetsujin makes adjustable offset wheels that dial either a +2, +5, +8mm wheel in one package Hope this helps
Helloo The RCNetwork!!! I need your assistance in getting a new RC car with which I would like to drift..The thing is I have never used a RC car but I want to get one which is good for drifting. Please suggest me one RC car for drifting for a beginner.. Thanks in advance.. I would like to import in from US.. So please suggest me if there is anything else which I need to buy along with RC car..
+srikanth reddy Most entry level drift cars (RTR) will typically be a 50/50 split 4wd vehicle. They're not the most ideal drift car, but they get the beginners going. I've tested out many of these vehicles from all the big US based names and the one that really stands out as a good drift car out of the box is the Team Associated APEX - There's several different body styles, and there are specific versions that include drift tires in the box. They also have a version now that comes with a Lipo battery in the box - try and get that version as well. Here's my videos on the Apex: ua-cam.com/video/nKOoQ46rupw/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/5xOWEu767Ek/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/jCpBIa_5Uno/v-deo.html
+The RCNetwork Thank you Very much for your swift response.. Video's just cleared all my questions.. and please do me a favor in choosing me a perfect RC car.. Im bit confused in choosing them.. It would be great if you send me any URL which you would suggest personally for me. so that I could directly place Order.. in amazon or ebay or watever..
Honestly, I'm not sure why they call it countersteer! Lol. It basically means that your rear wheels turn faster than the fronts - allowing your car to get into the drift easier
They call it countersteer because you have to turn your steering wheel in the opposite direction your car is turning. So for example if you initiate a slide or drift with the nose of your car pointing left, you have to turn your wheels to the right to keep the car from spinning. To continue the drift, you have to balance throttle and countersteering to maintain your drift angle.
I think a cool thing you could do would be to underdrive the front and put grip tires on the front and drift tires on the rear so it would act sorta like a 2wd drifter
I know about the issues on the Sprint 2. That's why I have decided to do a series to get the 1,000's of sprint 2 owners some good info on getting the Sprint 2 to do some decent drifting. Stay tuned for a great series!
Looks fantastic! I can't wait to see how you continue to mod it with your parts that are coming!!
Thanks! Yeah, I have lots of parts flowing in, just waiting on them all to show up!
Looks good man!! I was thinking of doing this for an economical drift build.Nothing difficult a standard rtr car on way diff the same esc/motor combo just to have fun!! really cool!!
The Sprint 2 is pretty versatile. Although not an "out of the box" drifter, it can do well with a few mods
I know it can and it's also very fun with foam tires also!! That body actually works with that wing at high speed!!
Lookin good, i cant wait to see your upcoming new parts like body and etc
Like I've said before, this is going to be another super rad series
Yeah, there's at least 15 more videos scheduled for this Sprint 2
so far that wus the best vid about the car that i have seen helped me out alot i will be watching more thanx
Thanks, andrew for the nice comments!
Nice overview. Looks like a fun car :)
look forward to see it going as I'm sure you are :0)
Thanks 1.21! It's turning out pretty nice
Yep, I've got few packs under my belt. waiting on a few more parts though
Cool idea for locking the diff, interesting! I should get me one of these guys, only because it is the closest I will ever get to owning a real GT3, hah!
I hear ya! I love the look of the GT3's.
I recently installed those rpm rod ends on my sprint 2 and my steering is ridiculously tight. Did you have this issue with yours and if so, how to did you resolve it?
Great vids by the way, pretty much built my car through your tutorials. Countersteer mod is all i have left.
Thanks! The RPM's really take all the slop out of the Sprint 2.
The RCNetwork
Definitely, but what I need to know is was your steering super stiff from the rod ends being tight around the ball joint?
BDRRICH Yeah, it was at first, but it broke in pretty quick
Hi, love your videos. Did you manage to fix the wobbly front left tyre you pointed out in this video, I thought with just replacing the ball caps with RPM's would do the trick
Yeah, the RPM ball cups took care of 75% of the slop on the front. As you'll see in a future video, the GPM alum steering rack got another 20%off.
The RCNetwork
Thanks, do you have a link to the parts as I am very keen on getting them. Thanks
The link for the RPM ball cups is in the video description (you need 2 packs), the GPM steering rack, you find here: www.asiatees.com/display?HPI-Sprint-2-Parts-Hop-Ups-Upgrades&brand=HPI&model=Sprint%202&id=41867&pid=1
The RCNetwork I have got the hopups your recommended then sloppyness has reduced 10-15 % not sure how much it will hold, but I can see the the remaining or most of the sloppyness is down to the ball cups , so this is going to be my next change.
The rpm ballcups are the best upgrade for money for this chassis
Looking good, I just brought a supra body for my sprint 2. Going to buy the t drifts.
I've been eying the Supra body too!
The Supra body was out of stock as soon as it was back, in I got it before it goes out of stock again.
Richard, I've just bought a HPI sprint 2 drift Camero and 350Z body, your videos on this sprint 2 provides me ideas on upgrades, thank you!! Are you doing a running video soon?
Soon i hope!
Hey Rich I cant remember which episode you mentioned you Hot glued your Rear diff but, I wanted to ask how the hot glue in the diff is holding up. I am thinking about doing the same.
It's doing great. I actually shot a video of how to, but haven't released it yet. I've ran about 6 packs through the car and it's holding up.
You gotta release those how tos rich! People depend on you hahaha :p
Thanks Andy! I'll probably release it tomorrow!
Great thanks! Quick question tho. Did you clean all the grease out of the diff before you put the glue in there?
And another question I have is does the type of glue melt make the difference because I just have a general purpose glue...
If I could bother you this late after you posted the video, where are you located for ordering parts( town/city), where do you order from for sprint 2 parts
I'm located in SoCal. I usually get HPI parts from Gyro Hobbies. Everything else is pretty much mail order.
interesting! I found one for $25 so I got a lot to learn!
+S30Uploads That's a great deal! I sold the stock shocks for $25! Drop in a $105 SV3 Castle combo - 5700kv and it will scream on 3s!
The RCNetwork thanks for the tip, it's going on my thought=creation board. Those silly HPI shocks are like $8 for a set of 4. I buy a lot of the 85mm and 100mm HPI shocks for my Maisto builds. They look pretty realistic when you remove the spring and just use the oil since my rigs are lightweight.
Did you have to buy a banana plug to deans connector adaptor or did the sky lipo already come with a deans plug?
No deans plug on the included harness from Hobby Partz. I did use the harness, clip off the odd connector and solder on a Deans
looks good!
Thanks Hasan!
Love your vids more dromida
Yep, Drones and touring/rally car coming up soon!
Look on rctech for the belt lift mod. Then you can shim the top deck to fit normal sized lipos in it.
Cool, thanks. I have a new chassis coming, so I'll look into it depending on the new parts.
How do you get regular sized tires to fill the wheel wells of the porsche body? I've seen some spacers, but I don't know which are the correct ones.
+ai van HPI went overboard on this Porsche body - The Rear wheels have a 14mm offset and fronts are 9mm. typically you offset the body based on a 200mm body running +9 in the rear and maybe +6 in the fronts. With this body, there's literally no aftermarket support other than the stock HPI wheels/tires
+The RCNetwork
Ah well, thanks for replying.
sweet car making a run vid of it.
Thanks Neal. Waiting on a few more parts before an official running vid!
want one but wounding about drift or flux version, witch would you recommend
The HPI Sprint 2 vehicles (Sport, Drift and Flux) are great 50/50 platforms for a multitude of uses. The Sport and Drift platforms have brushed based electronics and the only other differences are the tires. Sport comes with grip tires, drift comes with hard plastic tires to help the "drift". The Flux version adds Castle Creation's re-branded HPI Flux brushless electronics and to this date, they only offer grip tires on the flux. All version can drift easily, but they're 50/50 platforms and may not be the "best" drifter on the block, but they're lots of fun. I have a ton of videos of the HPI Sprint 2 including the Porsche that I turned into a Toyota Supra drifter and also the GTR Mustang (very old videos! lol) that I did some speed runs with.
I done the diff lock but done it with body pins if you search for it on youtube you will find it best way to lock it
Yeah, I saw that technique. I wanted somwthing that I could reverse, just in case. The metal clips seemed that they could detroy the spiders inside
So you did not change the pulleys and belts? just the front 1 way and locked rear diff....?
In a later episode, I created a very decent CS for the Sprint 2: Counter Steer Set up - HPI Sprint 2 - Full Explain!
the thing is...i watched that video before I watch this one LOL...my real question is...to obtain or being able to drift... isn't the front oneway and locked rear diff is enough? + change the angle on the 2 front wheels to about 3. I read/heard that is really doesnt matter what you do to your car...at the end of the day the skill counts. I had a look around and some guy didnt even do front one way...just locked rear diff and god damn his car drift just the same way as those fully modded one...@_@ oddly enough? so...please help me by explaining...I got my sprint 2 sport camaro 1969 today...without the batteries and charger (what the fuck australia, as far as I know it came with a shitty charger and a 2000 lipo battery) so I'm getting my batteries and charger, also waiting for body pins to arrive so I can lock the rear diff...Yes I do want to mod the pulleys and belt but the 180 belt is out of stock still on asiatee, getting it off ebay is easy enough but the shipping isn't worth it...I would rather go full on with asiatee and get the freeshipping instead (front one way, pulleys, belt, universal dog bone..blad blad and maybe a body)
Skill is 90% of it in RC! You are right....Set up and decent electronics help. I've drifted a stock Sprint 2 with no issue, it was changing direction that messed with me. The locked rear def helped. CS helped even more. As for the no battery/charger thing.......in certain countries, HPI had issues obtaining the correct import (license) I believe or something to include those items, so they are just a bit cheaper as a result.
The RCNetwork you know I finally got the batteries yesterday + the charger today and guess what...yesterday I tried to connect the battery and tryna do the esc setting and sync the remote and so on...but the car has a fucking tamiya male plug and my batter has a female dean plug...had to order a connector....also I noticed how the front belt will be touching the battery and now I have to deal with that too...fucking hell hpi...should have got a cheap as tamiya drifting car...cost around $150-$180 -_-
I'm running a 3s traxxas 5000mah 25c fits perfect...
+Nitro Rich It's a softpack.....Hardpacks usually have issues
I have a sprint2 and i want to change my motor combow wha is better a traxxas vxl or the combow that u have
The Castle SV3 (Sidewinder 3) is a great combo and a bit cheaper than the VXL. It will have a bit better topend for the sprint 2 as well (the VXL is really designed for an offroad truck). Grab the 5700kv option....
ok thanks for the respond i will buy the sidewinder the only problem is the Soldering i dont know how to solder but il try to look up videos in youtube "how to solder but thanks i will get it
Yea different tires and your good to drift?
+redline6871 Pretty much. 50/50 split cars like the HPI Sprint 2 are not the most ideal drift cars (There's now better chassis' available) but it will drift. The tough part on a 50/50 car is when you get into a drift and want to change direction....typically, you'll spin out
I was wondering cause I wrecked my slash 4x4 and I broke the front shocks so maybe you could give me the old ones that came with you slash PLEASE
I'm actually still using the GTR shocks. The Pro-Line Power-strokes are set for another project. Sorry.
🤣
Awesome vid, my son and I are just getting into the drift seen and lovin it. When you have a chance check out RC CWR DRIFT INVASION #2 trailer for our up and coming drift event. Let us know what you think, Cheers
Cool deal. And yes, I will check it out!
adjust this enormous toe to 0 if you want a perfect drift because with rear toe the wheels are not gona push the car to the same direction
I got that same car, but I can't get mines to go in reverse, I'm I doing something wrong HELP!!
I woould try re-calibrating the remote to the ESC, whjich programs forward, neutral and reverse
Actually can you point me to a cheap 2s Lipo battery and charger
do you do any running videos?
not of the Sprint 2 Sport, yet. Waiting on some more parts to come in before the camera rolls.
cool
How fast are you going of a 2s lipo
On 2s, in a Sprint 2, about 35mph with stock gearing
how wide is the actual chassis i really need to know!!!
+PepsiMan It's a 190mm chassis. The offset of the wheels allow it to take 200mm+ bodies
+The RCNetwork ok thank you! Now i don't understand the wheel offset thing for the rims for example 9mm offset ect.
+PepsiMan There's pretty much 190mm and 200mm chassis (width) 190's were all electric chassis and 200mm were nitros. With all the different bodies, people started putting nitro (200mm) bodies on 190mm chassis, but the wheels (zero offset) would stick so far inside the wheel well. The addition of +3, +6, +9 and many other offsets allowed you to tuned the wheel to fill the wheel well to the edge, providing that deeper dish look to the rear wheel vs the front. Most 200mm bodies will need (approx) a +3-6mm in the front and a +6-9mm in the rear. Tetsujin makes adjustable offset wheels that dial either a +2, +5, +8mm wheel in one package Hope this helps
OOOokay so basically how far out the wheel protrudes Thanks man!
why can i do to upgrade the gearing
buy a larger pinion? not sure what you mean by upgrade?
Helloo The RCNetwork!!!
I need your assistance in getting a new RC car with which I would like to drift..The thing is I have never used a RC car but I want to get one which is good for drifting. Please suggest me one RC car for drifting for a beginner.. Thanks in advance.. I would like to import in from US.. So please suggest me if there is anything else which I need to buy along with RC car..
+srikanth reddy Most entry level drift cars (RTR) will typically be a 50/50 split 4wd vehicle. They're not the most ideal drift car, but they get the beginners going. I've tested out many of these vehicles from all the big US based names and the one that really stands out as a good drift car out of the box is the Team Associated APEX - There's several different body styles, and there are specific versions that include drift tires in the box. They also have a version now that comes with a Lipo battery in the box - try and get that version as well. Here's my videos on the Apex: ua-cam.com/video/nKOoQ46rupw/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/5xOWEu767Ek/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/jCpBIa_5Uno/v-deo.html
+The RCNetwork Thank you Very much for your swift response.. Video's just cleared all my questions.. and please do me a favor in choosing me a perfect RC car.. Im bit confused in choosing them.. It would be great if you send me any URL which you would suggest personally for me. so that I could directly place Order.. in amazon or ebay or watever..
+The RCNetwork www.amazon.com/Team-Associated-Apex-Scion-Racing/dp/B00TIW82E2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1454860862&sr=8-1&keywords=apex+rocket+bunny
+srikanth reddy That's the one
Whats the body?
DellTonicToric It's the stock body from an HPI Sprint 2 Sport - A Porsche 911 GT3 RSR, I believe
What is Counter Steer?
Honestly, I'm not sure why they call it countersteer! Lol. It basically means that your rear wheels turn faster than the fronts - allowing your car to get into the drift easier
They call it countersteer because you have to turn your steering wheel in the opposite direction your car is turning. So for example if you initiate a slide or drift with the nose of your car pointing left, you have to turn your wheels to the right to keep the car from spinning. To continue the drift, you have to balance throttle and countersteering to maintain your drift angle.
This is wrong with regards to R/C drifting.... R/C drifting countersteer is different from real life countersteer
I run 4000kv in my drift car
I went for a bit more if I want to convert back to a touring car.
I think a cool thing you could do would be to underdrive the front and put grip tires on the front and drift tires on the rear so it would act sorta like a 2wd drifter
Mr. LMO513 I ended up doing a full CS set up on this rig if you check out my Supra build - Same chassis, different body
ok, cool
??
I wanna sub but when i do it over fells my mail
There are settings in your UA-cam acct to bypass getting email alerts. Subscribe anyways, it's cool! lol
The sprint 2 sucks for drifting man. Horrible aftermarket support,and no turning angle. Its just better just to get a mst rtr or sakura d3 trust me
I know about the issues on the Sprint 2. That's why I have decided to do a series to get the 1,000's of sprint 2 owners some good info on getting the Sprint 2 to do some decent drifting. Stay tuned for a great series!