AHHHHHH I GOT IT BROTHA ! lol. i took your advise and sat there and just looked . i finally came up with a solution , The stock tensioner has a spacer all i did was switch that side it was on and used the locking clip as a spacer for the front and it now sandwiched the belt so it wont jump off the pulley . it works like a charm and it's an awesome set up !!!
Hi there. First of all, great stuff on your channel, keep it going. Stumbled across this video and did the mod as described, but then i came across some issues. I noticed that with the new rear belt, it touches the motor (discovered this after a test run and saw that my belt started to wear). So what i did was, i lowered the motor as low as possible so the belt doesn't touch. This is where issue nr. 2 comes in. The pinion and spur gears didn't touch at all. As a quick fix to this i went to the hobby shop and got a 31t pinion and it meshed nicely. Now my question is, what are your thoughts on this, and should i change the gearing again? I believe because of the larger pinion (spur stays the same) my motor might run hotter than usual.
Abel Brito Thanks Abel....I have heard mixed results on this mod, although mine worked great. I dropped the rear/center pulley down one tooth and everything leveled out. I had a bit higher temps as well, but I was running stock gearing
10 YEARS LATER! Revisiting this video because I just got a stock HPi Sprint 2 Flux. With the HPi Flux Vapor ESC (rebranded SW3) and the HPi Flux Vektor 5900KV motor. Even though the HPi website states the Vapor ESC is NOT 3s compatible that is misleading, it isn't 3s compatible with the 5900KV Vektor motor installed! It IS actually 3s compatible up to 4800KV (and can maintain high drift revs well enough if you add your own fan like HPi did on their second release of the Vapor, the Vapor Pro). I wanted to run 3s so i swapped out the 5900KV for a 3700KV VRX purple 3650 to match the integy purple upgrades i added. But since I came across a new HPi FLUX MMH-4000, so i guess i will be doing some motor comparisons! So I decided to build a pair of CS drift cars using this HPi and a Tamiya TA04 (after finding the rare one way front diff for each, new, at very good prices!). After a quick search i found this video and discovered Amazon has all three parts you recommend so I ordered them! Thank you SO MUCH for taking the time to produce this video and posting it! You are still helping peoples like me a decade later and that's just pretty darn AWESOME!!!!! 🤙
The RCNetwork I have two of them, one is set up for drag racing duty and the other is my... Let's say, "daily driver" and was checking what to do to make it drift better, thanks again!!
Is there any clearance issues with the rear belt? I used these same parts without the sidewinder V3 and it rubs on the stock motor. I'm guessing the V3 is a little smaller in diameter. Thanks love the videos keep up the good work.
Do you have any videos with this setup in action? I would really like to see how it works before I start my rebuild. Right now I'm just thinking about a DBox. And how does the car handle on a straight away with the wheels pulling at different speeds?
yes the front belt . everything is line up to the T and i did flipped the stock belt tensioner just like you did. I Went ahead and ordered a 516 belt to see if that will help .
+Paul Reyna Try the newer belt......My front belt was literally brand new and not stretched, so that could be the difference. Like I said, take some time. I spent about 4 days trying to figure out the tensioner and finally after looking at it for days, It dawned on me I could just make the stock one work. It';s funny how RC works sometimes
Hi. I trying to making my sprint more decent drift machine and i asking me if a would lock the rear diff or put a ball differential?? Please help me ;) for now i order the part to make a countersteer like your. thanks you are the man!!!
drift soul Just lock the rear - Most all drift cars will have a locked rear. Many people prefer a "front One Way" diff, which only drives forward and acts as an E Brake if you hit the brakes/reverse. Otherwise, you can mod the steering to allow for more angle and pick up the front universals to handle the added angle - Check my playlist for this vehicle entitled "Get me Drift"
Great video and setup by the way. the only issue I have right now is that the belt is too tight even though I've tried adjusting the axle ends already.. And the belt touches my motor can and I tried dropping down the motor but there won't be connection with the spur and pinion.. :( now I can't run it since it overheats in a couple of seconds due to too much resistance.. any recommendations?
The RCNetwork hmmm maybe because you upgraded your motor as well.. so it might have a smaller diameter than the stock one? anyway I'll try to get a 20T and see how that goes. Thanks!
Hi, cool Video, I looked for the Center Pulley Gear T21 in our local shops, and I found one. But the belt (180mm) is not possible to get. Only 183mm length. Can I use this longer belt or should I try a bigger Center Pulley Gear for that belt? Have you experience? Ciao Roland
The 180mm belt is ideal with 20 and 21t. With the 183mm belt, I would try the 22-23t pulley and use the micro adjustment on the center pulley axle. When I was experimenting with larger pulleys (22t) there might be an issue where the pulley will be close to the can of the motor, which could result in another mod! lol
Hey, new sprint 2 owner and rc drifter here. What Lipo are you using in your car in this video? I'm having issues getting some nimh batteries to fit in my sprint 2, and I'm ready to step up to a hard case Lipo.
Troy Guinn It's 4000mah Sky Lipo. You'll need a very narrow lipo to fit under the topdeck of the Sprint 2. Here's a link: www.hobbypartz.com/77p-sl4000-2s1p-40c-2222-hardcase-bullet.html
+Paul Reyna I used these exact parts. Some people complained of the rear belt being too tight, so some of them had to drop down one tooth on the rear center pulley to loosen the belt
love the way the car handles now thx but the only problem is that 5 mins into the run my motor starts to overheat and i dont know how to reduce the heat
+JAMEZZZZZZ Yeah, the idea of creating a counter steer in a 50/50 car can have two options, under drive the front (best option) or over drive the rear. In the Sprint 2's case, it's not an option to underdrive the front (not enough room) so over driving the rear will have some consequences. Gearing and motor kv.turn will have to be adjusted to not overheat
I used a 20t for the rear and 12t for the front center pulleys. But I also put a 39t front dif pulley from a hot bodies cyclone s. I just put it on a hpi front one way. I forget what my countersteer ratio is.
Hi, I bought the parts list and installed it on my sprint 2. The problem I am having is the front belt is now too loose, even with the tension Mod. My rear belt has enough tension. Please give me a tip on how you get good tension for the front?
You'll most likely have to modify an additional tensioner down the line of the front belt. I guess I lucked out with mine, but mine was also farirly new as well
i have issues with my rear belt rubbing the motor what did you do to fix that and what gearing are you running i have speed passion 4000kv motor 87 spur 19t pinion
My belt was very close to the motor, but didn't touch. I may be using a differnt sized pinion/spur than you though....I'm running a stock spur and a 20t pinion (geared down from stock)
+The RCNetwork great video dude. I did the conversion as well and end up with the same trouble as rest of the guys. Have you perhaps considered to change the part link in the description to avoid people having this issue and save them a few bucks and some time? I'm running hobbywing just stock combo with 10.5T motor on my Sprint 2 which is also a couple of 100g heavier compare to factory car due to 2nd battery and heaps of accessories. The condensator and motor were getting too hot with this set up and constant revs so I had to swop the stock 23t pinion and 90t spur gear for 20t pinion and 96t spur gear and now is running on normal temperature :) Thanks for showing us how to do it mate :)
How did u get the pulleys not to slip? Because I'll put two Allen screws into the pulleys holes but after a few seconds the pulleys wouldn't spin as the shaft spooled up. I even tried some Loctite
You will have to flatten a spot on the center pulley axle. Can be easily done with a file or dremel and not much material needs to removed. Also, you only need to remove material where the set screw is
The RCNetwork after installing the 21t pulley and the new belt, I noticed that the rear wheel is hard to turn and even when I hit the accelerator and release it the rear wheels lock up...can you tell me why that is?
Not sure. How much slack is in the rear belt? There's a micro adjustment on the center pulley axle that will allow extra slack. Beyond that start checking everything attached to the rear wheels. Bearings, hub carriers, etc.
with this particular setup i can't really control my drift as well as my motor seems to be overheating quite heavily any suggestions?!? thanks in advance
I can’t find hardly any of these parts at all what turn motor is the castle what with what tires are you using in the trip video afterwards and who else makes the gears in the belts for overdrive thanks
so I did this same mod and it seems that the belt is rubbing on the motor and am going through belts way to much did you have this issue? Also what gearing are you running
thanks for the reply. what about the spur gear, stock as well? also did you ever have issues with the front belt tenshion. I put the same front pulley you did and the same mod for tensioning the belt and the belt fights itself because the teeth touch. I'm sure my belt is a little stretch because it is old but was just wondering if you had this problem and if it works out with a new belt how long does it last before it stretches to far? thanks for the help
I got a problem I order all the stuff u got to do the gears and I'm getting 2 much tension on the rear over heating the motor ant the front belt is to loose I did all the steps u did the car runs good but only for 5 min then it over heat did u change some thin else
oscar padilla I had dropped the rear center pulley down one tooth to reduce the tension, but other than that, all was well with mine. 30 minute run times with no heat issues. Make sure and check all the settings on the pulleys. the center axle has adjustable sides as well
hi, how can i update the rod, ball cup end in my hpi Sprint SPORT 2? those who come from the factory leave very closely. If you had the link or the information on how to improve, send it to me. Thank you
This video describes the parts you have purchased a ~ I have installed on the car - but I found a problem - playing a minute or so motor and the motor is very hot - how can we fix it?
lacypon In this scenario, we are overdriving the rear of the Sprint 2 which can cause additional heat depending on how your original set up was. My set up was bone stock other than adding a Castle Creations SV3 5700kv combo. All belts were perfectly tuned as well. You may want to see if anything iss too tight and/or binding somewhere
patrick guinn I ended up dropping one tooth on the center rear pulley. Made it perfect. you can micro adjust on the center pully axle by dialing the plastic inserts in either direction
that is the route that I was thinking about going. I decided to pick up a sakura d3 to experiment with. I also tried to micro adjust the center pulley but it just felt to tight for my liking.
You may want to check the tension on the rear belt. There's a micro adjuster on the center pulley to alleviate the tension. Sounds like it may be too tight.....
Hello friend, your videos are very good, I have loved this one, it is just what is necessary, I leave you my like and my subscription. I have a query, if I can't find the 180mm and 60T drive belt, could a 61T and 183mm drive work? Thank you very much.
I followed your tutorial and now my motor and esc are over heating, don't know why if the pinion and spur are the same. I have the flux version and running 2s.
Check that nothing is binding up. Also check the belt tension, something is causing the heat, as it's putting additional load on the motor. You can also remove the pinion for the motor/adjust the motor so that the spur/pinion are not engaged and give everything a spin. It should be pretty free
I'm using an electric RS4 rear belt, don't need any custom tensioner, thing is that you need to upgrade the rear pulley to the aluminum one, HPI part #72172
Because when you overdrive the rear you change the final drive ratio of the car to a longer gearing, in order to reduce heat you need a smaller pinion and larger spur gear.
i cant seem to make the car go straight without spinning out after the mod. a few guys suggested i gear down the ponion. (running hobby wing 9t brussless motor). any suggestions?
Pexsi87 that could be it....that's a lot of motor....also look at the rear center pulley....which also may need to be geared down....some people have needed to do this since there's no tension adjustment - it's all done with gear ratio. If the rear belt is too tight, it will spin out as well
+SuperDad80 the axle on the center rear pulley rides on two plastic cups that can rotate slightly either direction. I did go down one tooth on the center rear pulley to alleviate the rear belt tension though
+The RCNetwork yea it seems extremely tight? And by that do you mean changing the position of the outside ring thing left to the spur gear? I know that controls the tension and I had that all the way loose but still really tight
I had this problem too but I've just fixed it by adjusting the axle ends ^^^ (the black plastic bits that hold the gear shaft bearings) if you look closely you can see they are offset so change the position to get the least tension. I also put some less grippy cheap tires on the front with the standard T-Drifts on the rear, that helped the spinning out. Also be as smooth as possible with your controls ;) have fun!
Get yourself an Afro rc sprint cs kit no belt changes needed, no burnt out motors belts so tight they could snap just looking atm. It works with OEM belts and is specially made for the car by Afro rc, cs steer set ups from 1.5 cs up 2.0 cs. I did this yea it's cheap yea it will work, but it will cause you problems down the line and uneeded wear its such a long winded way to get counter steer. And pissed me off once I had done it he comes out with the extra parts you may need. Sprint peoples get an Afro rc counter steer kit and don't reck your car peace ✋
steve beddoes steve, thanks for watching and commenting on my video. I give very much respect to Afro/RC for his work on the Sprint 2. I searched for his conversion it just now and even looked on his site. From what I remember, when I search back before this video aired, it was quite pricey, if even available and it some fly-by-night PayPal acct transaction. In my video, I give specific items you can purchase at a reputable site for about $20 and a bit of crafty-ness to install. Sure, it ain't perfect. But my Supra sure does CS drift well: ua-cam.com/video/mTl8kGU3HhM/v-deo.html So before you start throwing stones at my channel and videos, be prepared that I monitor each and every comment and will not hesitate to ban a troll or two (I used that term since your channel has ZERO content) Peace.
+edmond belmondo Yeah, I ended up selling off the Sprint 2......It was a great car, but with all of the Drift Specific chassis out now, they make it so easy to drift!
i found on ebay 24T and bigger to 28T.. but i will use 183 rear belt so it may fit ... i want CS 2 :) and wanna ask what is the difference between front one way axle and one way center pulley ??
hi can i use this belt Reinforced Drive Belt S3M 540 180T 3.00MM Boom Racing for CS with this Pulley you show in video? I asking becouse this belt you showing in video is out of stock at asiatees.com
deleted last comment i apologize for my frustration . Well i filed down the pulley axle that's fine every time a reverse the belt jumps off the pulley . any recommendations ? sorry for the last post . just got a little upset at this dam car
Paul Reyna I hear ya on the Sprint 2 being frustrating! lol As far as the belt jumping off the pulley, is it the front? If so, make sure everything is lined up correctly - Front diff to center pulley axle. Also, did you do the additional tensioner mod? You'll need that if running the stock front belt. Hope this helps. I took many 24 hr breaks with this car......but in the end, it's a great car to drive
That is the one thing I didn't mention. You will need to flatten a spot near each pulley, as the 3Racing pulleys are set by a grub screw (kinda like a pinion gear). Check out my thread on Drift Mission, where I show pictures of what the pulley axle needs to look like: forum.driftmission.com/Thread-the-rcnetwork-s-get-my-drift-sprint-2
Not sure on where to get them. I know the Boom racing brand is specific to Asia Tees, but I'm sure there's a need out there. I believe it was intended for a 3Racing vehicle, just not sure which one....
Wow, I don't see any spinning out in my ruuning video: HPI Sprint 2 "Get My Drift" Running Countersteer - The RCNetwork You may need to either adjust the tension of the rear belt or drop down a tooth on the rear/center pulley. It worked for my Sprint 2, and I don't believe I forced anyone to go out and buy parts (what was it........$20, tops?).....................Yo
![[UA] NAVI vs MOUZ | BO5 | IEM Rio 2024](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/CMBYk0cbGoA/mqdefault.jpg)
Has to be one of the best HPI drift conversion video's out there and can't wait to see the front motor swap
Thanks as always, Johnny!
AHHHHHH I GOT IT BROTHA ! lol. i took your advise and sat there and just looked . i finally came up with a solution , The stock tensioner has a spacer all i did was switch that side it was on and used the locking clip as a spacer for the front and it now sandwiched the belt so it wont jump off the pulley . it works like a charm and it's an awesome set up !!!
+Paul Reyna nice!
Thankyou so much for this, after my stock belts snapped I decided now would be the best time to do this, and I couldn't find a good guide at all.
You're welcome!
Nice rig. Can't wait for the running vids.
Thanks Friday! Next week the vid will be out!
FANTASTIC!!!!!!!!!!!!!! BEST Drift Rc TUNING (for me about the toipic at least) VID EVER!!!!
+Szabi ESz Thanks Szabi!
great videos on the drift build. keep the videos coming im learning allot.
Thanks Special K!
thanks for the video, ive just ordered those parts, hopefully it works out well. thanks again
good deal! It should work fine. Keep in mind the centerpulley axle has a micro adjuster to adjust belt tension
Great video Rich thank you for taking the time that really helped
GOT SAME SYSTEM IN MY RACE/DRIFT HPI SPRINT 2 LOVE IT
thank you. iveorderd the 21t and the belt from rcmart on ebay. very helpfull video. cheers. Adam
Nice! Happy drifting!
Cant wait to see it drifting
Thanks Powcar! Next week the vid will be out!
Want to add Counter Steer to your HPI Sprint 2? Here's how:
Hi there. First of all, great stuff on your channel, keep it going. Stumbled across this video and did the mod as described, but then i came across some issues.
I noticed that with the new rear belt, it touches the motor (discovered this after a test run and saw that my belt started to wear). So what i did was, i lowered the motor as low as possible so the belt doesn't touch. This is where issue nr. 2 comes in. The pinion and spur gears didn't touch at all. As a quick fix to this i went to the hobby shop and got a 31t pinion and it meshed nicely. Now my question is, what are your thoughts on this, and should i change the gearing again? I believe because of the larger pinion (spur stays the same) my motor might run hotter than usual.
Abel Brito Thanks Abel....I have heard mixed results on this mod, although mine worked great. I dropped the rear/center pulley down one tooth and everything leveled out. I had a bit higher temps as well, but I was running stock gearing
Thanks for the explanation! Would you happen to know if this modification works on old school chassis? Such as HPI Sport, Pro, Sport 2, Pro 2, etc.?
10 YEARS LATER!
Revisiting this video because I just got a stock HPi Sprint 2 Flux. With the HPi Flux Vapor ESC (rebranded SW3) and the HPi Flux Vektor 5900KV motor. Even though the HPi website states the Vapor ESC is NOT 3s compatible that is misleading, it isn't 3s compatible with the 5900KV Vektor motor installed! It IS actually 3s compatible up to 4800KV (and can maintain high drift revs well enough if you add your own fan like HPi did on their second release of the Vapor, the Vapor Pro). I wanted to run 3s so i swapped out the 5900KV for a 3700KV VRX purple 3650 to match the integy purple upgrades i added. But since I came across a new HPi FLUX MMH-4000, so i guess i will be doing some motor comparisons!
So I decided to build a pair of CS drift cars using this HPi and a Tamiya TA04 (after finding the rare one way front diff for each, new, at very good prices!). After a quick search i found this video and discovered Amazon has all three parts you recommend so I ordered them!
Thank you SO MUCH for taking the time to produce this video and posting it! You are still helping peoples like me a decade later and that's just pretty darn AWESOME!!!!! 🤙
Nice! I know many of the parts were very hard to find for a while. Glad you got them!
Ohh cool thanks for the parts list. Can you post some video using this setup.
Yep, soon. Just dialing in the set up and getting some additional parts installed
Ok thanks I used my bench grinder to help fit my lipo wires through the battery tray I also have a sky lipo
Good deal!
Great video, thanks!!
Thanks Wilson
The RCNetwork I have two of them, one is set up for drag racing duty and the other is my... Let's say, "daily driver" and was checking what to do to make it drift better, thanks again!!
Is there any clearance issues with the rear belt? I used these same parts without the sidewinder V3 and it rubs on the stock motor. I'm guessing the V3 is a little smaller in diameter. Thanks love the videos keep up the good work.
I also ran a V3 motor, but which pinion?
swedman255 The clearance is very close, but really depends on the size of pinion. I was running a stock pinion from the Sprint 2 sport
Do you have any videos with this setup in action? I would really like to see how it works before I start my rebuild. Right now I'm just thinking about a DBox. And how does the car handle on a straight away with the wheels pulling at different speeds?
That will be next week. Just finalizing a couple more things before the drift vids start!
It's up now: HPI Sprint 2 "Get My Drift" Running Countersteer - The RCNetwork
yes the front belt . everything is line up to the T and i did flipped the stock belt tensioner just like you did. I Went ahead and ordered a 516 belt to see if that will help .
+Paul Reyna Try the newer belt......My front belt was literally brand new and not stretched, so that could be the difference. Like I said, take some time. I spent about 4 days trying to figure out the tensioner and finally after looking at it for days, It dawned on me I could just make the stock one work. It';s funny how RC works sometimes
Hi. I trying to making my sprint more decent drift machine and i asking me if a would lock the rear diff or put a ball differential?? Please help me ;) for now i order the part to make a countersteer like your. thanks you are the man!!!
drift soul Just lock the rear - Most all drift cars will have a locked rear. Many people prefer a "front One Way" diff, which only drives forward and acts as an E Brake if you hit the brakes/reverse. Otherwise, you can mod the steering to allow for more angle and pick up the front universals to handle the added angle - Check my playlist for this vehicle entitled "Get me Drift"
Great video and setup by the way. the only issue I have right now is that the belt is too tight even though I've tried adjusting the axle ends already.. And the belt touches my motor can and I tried dropping down the motor but there won't be connection with the spur and pinion.. :( now I can't run it since it overheats in a couple of seconds due to too much resistance..
any recommendations?
You may need to drop down a tooth on the rear center pulley. When I set mine up, it was perfect, but a few other have seen that it was too tight.
The RCNetwork
hmmm maybe because you upgraded your motor as well.. so it might have a smaller diameter than the stock one? anyway I'll try to get a 20T and see how that goes.
Thanks!
Ivan Maog
I have the same problem with the stock motor.
Does the mod with the 20t pulley work or is still too tight and rubbing?
RUNNING SAME BRUSHLESS SYSTEM AND (LOVE ITTTT
Thanks once my pulley comes in ima go to home depot to get a file. Are u gonna post videos of u drifting soon?
That will work! Drift videos should be out later this week, if not next
It's up now: HPI Sprint 2 "Get My Drift" Running Countersteer - The RCNetwork
Hi, cool Video, I looked for the Center Pulley Gear T21 in our local shops, and I found one. But the belt (180mm) is not possible to get. Only 183mm length. Can I use this longer belt or should I try a bigger Center Pulley Gear for that belt? Have you experience? Ciao Roland
The 180mm belt is ideal with 20 and 21t. With the 183mm belt, I would try the 22-23t pulley and use the micro adjustment on the center pulley axle. When I was experimenting with larger pulleys (22t) there might be an issue where the pulley will be close to the can of the motor, which could result in another mod! lol
Back in stock:
www.asiatees.com/display.php?id=62514&brand=Miscellaneous&model=All&pid=1
Hey, new sprint 2 owner and rc drifter here. What Lipo are you using in your car in this video? I'm having issues getting some nimh batteries to fit in my sprint 2, and I'm ready to step up to a hard case Lipo.
Troy Guinn It's 4000mah Sky Lipo. You'll need a very narrow lipo to fit under the topdeck of the Sprint 2. Here's a link: www.hobbypartz.com/77p-sl4000-2s1p-40c-2222-hardcase-bullet.html
The RCNetwork guess who's a lifesaver!! That's a sweet deal on a pretty big lipo man, thanks !!!
Troy Guinn Anytime
what exactly did you end up doing for the set up ? the parts in video or something else ?
+Paul Reyna I used these exact parts. Some people complained of the rear belt being too tight, so some of them had to drop down one tooth on the rear center pulley to loosen the belt
love the way the car handles now thx but the only problem is that 5 mins into the run my motor starts to overheat and i dont know how to reduce the heat
+JAMEZZZZZZ Yeah, the idea of creating a counter steer in a 50/50 car can have two options, under drive the front (best option) or over drive the rear. In the Sprint 2's case, it's not an option to underdrive the front (not enough room) so over driving the rear will have some consequences. Gearing and motor kv.turn will have to be adjusted to not overheat
Need Help: I want to add the Yeah Racing Aluminum 15T Pulley Gear but I am not sure which one to change.
I used a 20t for the rear and 12t for the front center pulleys. But I also put a 39t front dif pulley from a hot bodies cyclone s. I just put it on a hpi front one way. I forget what my countersteer ratio is.
Hi, I bought the parts list and installed it on my sprint 2. The problem I am having is the front belt is now too loose, even with the tension Mod. My rear belt has enough tension. Please give me a tip on how you get good tension for the front?
You'll most likely have to modify an additional tensioner down the line of the front belt. I guess I lucked out with mine, but mine was also farirly new as well
i have issues with my rear belt rubbing the motor what did you do to fix that and what gearing are you running i have speed passion 4000kv motor 87 spur 19t pinion
+kasperandturbo The gearing will determine if the belt rubs on the motor. Unless your belt is stretched from use
Hi, used your setup in my drift 2 flux but the rear belt is touching the brushless Motor. How did you solve the Problem? Its getting very hot.
My belt was very close to the motor, but didn't touch. I may be using a differnt sized pinion/spur than you though....I'm running a stock spur and a 20t pinion (geared down from stock)
So I believe I read somewhere you dropped the rear pulley to a 20T? If so please let me know as I used this info to build mine.
+bigbadbronx72 Yeah, I did one step down from the video set up to alleviate the belt tension in the rear
+The RCNetwork great video dude. I did the conversion as well and end up with the same trouble as rest of the guys. Have you perhaps considered to change the part link in the description to avoid people having this issue and save them a few bucks and some time?
I'm running hobbywing just stock combo with 10.5T motor on my Sprint 2 which is also a couple of 100g heavier compare to factory car due to 2nd battery and heaps of accessories. The condensator and motor were getting too hot with this set up and constant revs so I had to swop the stock 23t pinion and 90t spur gear for 20t pinion and 96t spur gear and now is running on normal temperature :)
Thanks for showing us how to do it mate :)
How did u get the pulleys not to slip? Because I'll put two Allen screws into the pulleys holes but after a few seconds the pulleys wouldn't spin as the shaft spooled up. I even tried some Loctite
You will have to flatten a spot on the center pulley axle. Can be easily done with a file or dremel and not much material needs to removed. Also, you only need to remove material where the set screw is
VERY GOOD, BRASIL OK.
would using a 20t or 22t make much difference? performance wise and size wise.
For the rear belt size I'm using, a 20t is ideal, the 21t fits. 22 would be way too tight
The RCNetwork after installing the 21t pulley and the new belt, I noticed that the rear wheel is hard to turn and even when I hit the accelerator and release it the rear wheels lock up...can you tell me why that is?
Not sure. How much slack is in the rear belt? There's a micro adjustment on the center pulley axle that will allow extra slack. Beyond that start checking everything attached to the rear wheels. Bearings, hub carriers, etc.
I used the same belt as you described. But I will check bearings thanks!
Hello
how did you fix the new gear?
only with the caterpillar screw??
Thanks
Yes, a grub screw
with this particular setup i can't really control my drift as well as my motor seems to be overheating quite heavily any suggestions?!? thanks in advance
You may have to drop a tooth on the rear pulley......to like a 21t
I can’t find hardly any of these parts at all what turn motor is the castle what with what tires are you using in the trip video afterwards and who else makes the gears in the belts for overdrive thanks
Yes, quite an old video....you'll have to search on Asia Tees / RC Mart for similar parts. Good luck
Amazon…just got all the parts listed in the mail.
so I did this same mod and it seems that the belt is rubbing on the motor and am going through belts way to much did you have this issue? Also what gearing are you running
Stock Sprint 2 pinion.....I did dial down the middle/rear pulley one tooth to alleviate that issue
thanks for the reply. what about the spur gear, stock as well? also did you ever have issues with the front belt tenshion. I put the same front pulley you did and the same mod for tensioning the belt and the belt fights itself because the teeth touch. I'm sure my belt is a little stretch because it is old but was just wondering if you had this problem and if it works out with a new belt how long does it last before it stretches to far? thanks for the help
I got a problem I order all the stuff u got to do the gears and I'm getting 2 much tension on the rear over heating the motor ant the front belt is to loose I did all the steps u did the car runs good but only for 5 min then it over heat did u change some thin else
oscar padilla I had dropped the rear center pulley down one tooth to reduce the tension, but other than that, all was well with mine. 30 minute run times with no heat issues. Make sure and check all the settings on the pulleys. the center axle has adjustable sides as well
hi, how can i update the rod, ball cup end in my hpi Sprint SPORT 2? those who come from the factory leave very closely. If you had the link or the information on how to improve, send it to me. Thank you
This video describes the parts you have purchased a ~ I have installed on the car - but I found a problem - playing a minute or so motor and the motor is very hot - how can we fix it?
lacypon In this scenario, we are overdriving the rear of the Sprint 2 which can cause additional heat depending on how your original set up was. My set up was bone stock other than adding a Castle Creations SV3 5700kv combo. All belts were perfectly tuned as well. You may want to see if anything iss too tight and/or binding somewhere
hey, so i just installed this setup but the rear seems to be too tight. what should i do to adjust that tension?
patrick guinn I ended up dropping one tooth on the center rear pulley. Made it perfect. you can micro adjust on the center pully axle by dialing the plastic inserts in either direction
that is the route that I was thinking about going. I decided to pick up a sakura d3 to experiment with. I also tried to micro adjust the center pulley but it just felt to tight for my liking.
I did the upgrade as per your spec's. And my Rc wants to spin out. Straight away speed gone. What happened? Can you help?
You may want to check the tension on the rear belt. There's a micro adjuster on the center pulley to alleviate the tension. Sounds like it may be too tight.....
Thank you very much. Will look into tht. Sweet!
OK where is it?
The center pulley axle has two tabs on either side. There's slots to move it fore or aft to tighten or loosen the belts.
Thx
How did you get the pulleys to work ? Someone plz help
People should definitely start buying the parts from asia tees now since they have 15%!
also The RCNetwork does it have to be 180 belt? asiatees seems to be OOS of it right now
Thanks for the info!
Yeah, the 180mm belt works perfect for a 20, 21t pulley. I also tried the 189, even with a 22t pulley and it was way too big
The RCNetwork Is there another belt you could buy besides 180mm? Asiatees said that they won't restock for awhile. Would the 3mm width work?
It would, but may have a slightly diminished lifespan.
Hello friend, your videos are very good, I have loved this one, it is just what is necessary, I leave you my like and my subscription. I have a query, if I can't find the 180mm and 60T drive belt, could a 61T and 183mm drive work? Thank you very much.
You'll have to do some searching....they're out there...this video is quite old though
Do you change front belt?
Nope, just adjusted the front belt tensioner. All was good
How about the steering modification?
I covered that in a seperate video Check out the playlist for the "Get My Drift" series
I followed your tutorial and now my motor and esc are over heating, don't know why if the pinion and spur are the same. I have the flux version and running 2s.
Check that nothing is binding up. Also check the belt tension, something is causing the heat, as it's putting additional load on the motor. You can also remove the pinion for the motor/adjust the motor so that the spur/pinion are not engaged and give everything a spin. It should be pretty free
I'm using an electric RS4 rear belt, don't need any custom tensioner, thing is that you need to upgrade the rear pulley to the aluminum one, HPI part #72172
BTW, the rear belt part # is HPI A243, a S3M174, 54t, 5mm wide belt
Because when you overdrive the rear you change the final drive ratio of the car to a longer gearing, in order to reduce heat you need a smaller pinion and larger spur gear.
Thanks guys, it was the rear belt. It was too tight even with the shaft moved to the rear. Fixed it now.
i cant seem to make the car go straight without spinning out after the mod. a few guys suggested i gear down the ponion. (running hobby wing 9t brussless motor). any suggestions?
Pexsi87 that could be it....that's a lot of motor....also look at the rear center pulley....which also may need to be geared down....some people have needed to do this since there's no tension adjustment - it's all done with gear ratio. If the rear belt is too tight, it will spin out as well
The RCNetwork so gear down the pully that drives the rear diff as well as the spur and pinion? would 18p/87s be ok?
In the thumbnail of the video, gear down the top pulley (just one tooth will do) it will slacken up the belt a bit. Then, try gearing down the pinion
when r u doing the front motor mod?? I did mine but cant get the steering to work out
Not sure, working on other stuff right now. I know that the steering is the nightmare portion of that swap.
When are you gonna drift that car ive ben serching vídeos when you drift the hpi supra body but nice car
Here you go: ua-cam.com/video/mTl8kGU3HhM/v-deo.html
what did you adjust the rear drive tensioner to?
+SuperDad80 the axle on the center rear pulley rides on two plastic cups that can rotate slightly either direction. I did go down one tooth on the center rear pulley to alleviate the rear belt tension though
Hey bro, what's the countersteer ratio of this set up?
+BDRRICH From what I remember, 1.75 or in other words, the front wheel makes one revolution, where the rear makes 1.75 revolutions
Did this mod and the car spins like crazy can't even control it? Any ideas?
Most likely the rear belt is too tight. I ended up backing off one tooth on the center rear pulley, and I was running stock Sprint 2 gearing
+The RCNetwork yea it seems extremely tight? And by that do you mean changing the position of the outside ring thing left to the spur gear? I know that controls the tension and I had that all the way loose but still really tight
I did the counter steer but it keeps spining out i tryed loosening the tensioners but idk where to put them they are in the second hole
The axle ends are oblong to shorten or lengthen the amount of distance. Worst case, you can try a 21t rear center pulley. My 22t works great though
I had this problem too but I've just fixed it by adjusting the axle ends ^^^ (the black plastic bits that hold the gear shaft bearings) if you look closely you can see they are offset so change the position to get the least tension. I also put some less grippy cheap tires on the front with the standard T-Drifts on the rear, that helped the spinning out. Also be as smooth as possible with your controls ;) have fun!
would it help if i changed the spur gear to say a 96 tooth?
Or a smaller pinion
one question, why did you put a capacitor un the Receptor?
+beat hauser aguilera to keep the servo from stealing power from the ESC and causing glitches
Wow that I not konw, i have just few months in the hooby, is conected to the signal and ground? Thanks :)
+beat hauser aguilera yeah, it's just plugged into any open port on your receiver.
i put the smaller pulley on mine done the mod and belt is still slipping
what pack are you using
It's a sky Lipo 4000mah hard case 40c
How much is all the parts put together? Sorry lazy Dr or the math.
For the two aluminum pulleys and the belt......Probably about $22. Totally worth it!
hey whats your cs at in your sprint?
74% as it is calculated on Drift Mission
Get yourself an Afro rc sprint cs kit no belt changes needed, no burnt out motors belts so tight they could snap just looking atm. It works with OEM belts and is specially made for the car by Afro rc, cs steer set ups from 1.5 cs up 2.0 cs.
I did this yea it's cheap yea it will work, but it will cause you problems down the line and uneeded wear its such a long winded way to get counter steer. And pissed me off once I had done it he comes out with the extra parts you may need.
Sprint peoples get an Afro rc counter steer kit and don't reck your car peace ✋
steve beddoes steve, thanks for watching and commenting on my video. I give very much respect to Afro/RC for his work on the Sprint 2. I searched for his conversion it just now and even looked on his site. From what I remember, when I search back before this video aired, it was quite pricey, if even available and it some fly-by-night PayPal acct transaction. In my video, I give specific items you can purchase at a reputable site for about $20 and a bit of crafty-ness to install. Sure, it ain't perfect. But my Supra sure does CS drift well: ua-cam.com/video/mTl8kGU3HhM/v-deo.html
So before you start throwing stones at my channel and videos, be prepared that I monitor each and every comment and will not hesitate to ban a troll or two (I used that term since your channel has ZERO content) Peace.
Any one got overdrive parts list for the associated tc4?
so what parts do i need.. i tried to purchase a rear belt but asiatees have none in stock so is there anyone else that sales it?
You'll have to source the parts out. try RCMart or some of the other importer type retailers
the rear belt iz to tight and the belt around center pulley is rubbing on the motor... do i need a 20t pulley
Hey bro tell me did the belt touching the. Motor
+edmond belmondo Barely, but not touching at rest, only when really revv'd
I had the same car I got tired replacing the belt so gave up
+edmond belmondo Yeah, I ended up selling off the Sprint 2......It was a great car, but with all of the Drift Specific chassis out now, they make it so easy to drift!
My belt is now rubbing on the motor with the larger pulley!Please help
LiL Hustler drop one tooth on the middle rear pulley
The RCNetwork well I ordered a 32t pinion so the motor will be further from the belt.Hopefully it wont be over geared.
O-O thats why my cheap onroad car wasn´t able to exit the drift and change directions
Could be. Also locked rear and one way front help a lot.
what belt i have to use when a i use bigger back center pulley ? 24T
Tomas Sutka I'm not sure a 24t is possible. I was running a 21t and dropped down to a 20t to slack the rear belt a bit more
i found on ebay 24T and bigger to 28T.. but i will use 183 rear belt so it may fit ... i want CS 2 :)
and wanna ask what is the difference between front one way axle and one way center pulley ??
Tomas Sutka With the 183, the 20t was optimal
so i would need bigger one ? maybe 190 ?
185 i think will be small
Tomas Sutka The other issue is hitting the motor....
who else would have these parts as i have had a bad experience with asiatees a few yrs ago.
+kasperandturbo You can try RCMart
hi can i use this belt Reinforced Drive Belt S3M 540 180T 3.00MM Boom Racing for CS with this Pulley you show in video? I asking becouse this belt you showing in video is out of stock at asiatees.com
You should be good with that one (check the length though)
deleted last comment i apologize for my frustration . Well i filed down the pulley axle that's fine every time a reverse the belt jumps off the pulley . any recommendations ? sorry for the last post . just got a little upset at this dam car
Paul Reyna I hear ya on the Sprint 2 being frustrating! lol As far as the belt jumping off the pulley, is it the front? If so, make sure everything is lined up correctly - Front diff to center pulley axle. Also, did you do the additional tensioner mod? You'll need that if running the stock front belt. Hope this helps. I took many 24 hr breaks with this car......but in the end, it's a great car to drive
how are the pulleys lock in place?
That is the one thing I didn't mention. You will need to flatten a spot near each pulley, as the 3Racing pulleys are set by a grub screw (kinda like a pinion gear). Check out my thread on Drift Mission, where I show pictures of what the pulley axle needs to look like: forum.driftmission.com/Thread-the-rcnetwork-s-get-my-drift-sprint-2
The RCNetwork thanks for the reply. what tool did u use to flatten it?
Just a metal file. You can use a dremel too, but the file worked good for me.
The RCNetwork how much should I file away? and did you use any thread lock?
Just enough to create a flat surface so the grub screw can catch. Think pinion on a motor shaft! And yes, always loctite.
can i find the parts on amazon.de?
+magnus kjeldbjerg I have links over to AsiaTees, copy and paste the model numbers into Amazon
Sid skin
cs 1.5?
Yeah a bit over. I haven't done the math, but it's between 1.5 and 1.75. It runs really nice!
o/
Buddy The last link is no longer in the store, you know another place where I can buy?
Reinforced Drive Belt S3M 180 60T 4.00MM Out Of Stock T_T
Not sure on where to get them. I know the Boom racing brand is specific to Asia Tees, but I'm sure there's a need out there. I believe it was intended for a 3Racing vehicle, just not sure which one....
Yo this idea was stupid n useless. My car won't stop spinning out of control n I know I did it right. Thanks for wasting my time n money.
Wow, I don't see any spinning out in my ruuning video: HPI Sprint 2 "Get My Drift" Running Countersteer - The RCNetwork You may need to either adjust the tension of the rear belt or drop down a tooth on the rear/center pulley. It worked for my Sprint 2, and I don't believe I forced anyone to go out and buy parts (what was it........$20, tops?).....................Yo