(Read this in your nice voice because I'm not trying to be rude) Think about this 🤔 if you don't agree with Hambini then just clearly explain why he's wrong and why you're right. Hambini wouldn't have a channel if he called someone a wanker then asked us to like, sub, bell his five second video. People are interested in what he has to say because he'll call out a wanker then spend 45 minutes explaining in detail the design flaws and how it could be improved. If you call someone an idiot then back it up with an explanation. If you don't think he's right I would love to hear an explanation. Trust me I love counter arguments it's how things get better. If Hambini calls someone a wanker and doesn't explain why then he would seem like a dick. Because he explains himself he comes across as being fed up.
It looked counter-intuitive to me too, so I looked it up with Google, here is what I got: Are bottom bracket threads backwards? Dear Lennard, The way the bottom bracket thread standard is, it would cause a bottom bracket cup to loosen when pedaling if a bottom bracket bearing gets too tight. It seems that if the drive-side is right-hand thread and the non-drive-side is left-hand, then the pedaling motion will not cause the cups to loosen. Did someone got it wrong originally or is there a good reason for it? Luckily bottom brackets are becoming threadless. - Ned Dear Ned, Actually, the English standard bottom bracket threads are set up correctly. When the bearings are functioning properly, pedaling tightens the cups in. When the bearings are seized up, pedaling would loosen the cups. If that’s not clear, then think about it for a moment. The drive-side cup is left-hand threaded, so if the crank were affixed to the cup like a wrench (as would happen if the bearings were seized up), pedaling forward would turn the cup clockwise, which would unscrew the left-hand-threaded cup. But if the bearing turns freely, then the spindle turning clockwise rolls the ball bearings along with it, and the outboard side of each ball turns the opposite direction of the inboard side of the ball. So, the free-rolling balls are tightening the cup in further as the rider pedals forward. The inverse is of course true for the non-drive-side cup. And pedal threads behave the same way, even though the drive-side pedal is right-hand thread and the non-drive-side pedal is left-hand threaded. ― Lennard
ummm hope tech do just the bearing for their bb as well and have done well before this bb came out. plus they are super easy to replace. did my with a arm in a cast.
@@404nobrakes Besides being a christian I am from an era where a man could greet another without being called a homosexual. But no thanks I have an amazing wife just like Hambini.
I purchased one of these a while back but had to put off installing because my road bike frame cracked. When I finally acquired a Waterford frame I installed it with an older Shimano 105 crank. I never knew what I was missing until I experienced the “ice on ice” level of friction of your BB. Thank you so much.
Hi Hambini, Great to know what kind of tools need to prepare, installation steps and the maintenance procedures on your bsa bottom bracket, nice video!
Patrick Harvey that’s for draining. You’ll appreciate them when you somehow end up with 500g of water in each rim after a rainy ride and there is literally no way to drain it without taking off your tubeless tires and redoing the whole seating process again
I was thinking about the return to threaded BBs that has started with the likes of Trek. They have gone all the way back to an aluminium tube bonded into the BB that cups thread into. Why didn't they make a aluminium tube that bearings can press directly into, essentially like Hambini's BB here and just bond it into the BB shell? This one is made to replace a HollowTechII BB so the bearings are external to the frame. If someone was designing from scratch they might make it a single part where the external surface is a plain tube and just have internal ridges that the bearings press against. It could be as wide as a current pressfit BB and whatever diameter the frame allows. Is any more required than that?
Pedaling forward could loosen the BB if not fully tightened as you tightened the BB while "pedaling" backwards, same with the pedals I believe the reason for the reverse threads is that BB's and pedals don't become too tight after time. am I misunderstanding??
Thank you Hambini. Look forward to my BSA BB arriving for the Aussie summer! Will rock my Hambini sticker on the frame so everyone I drop knows whats under the hood.
@RollinRat Hello, for hollowtech II crank being installed on a Pinarello ITA do you recommend tightening by hand or torquing to 40nm spec? Also, I notice some mechanics will put grease on the BB threads before installing, but Shimano already have blue loctite on their BB threads. Would you just install it straight up?
thanks for this. done it a million times but i always learn more watching your in depth explanations. Eg i always just installed drive side first and then non. if i encounter a bike with poor alignment and wasn't paying attention that could be disastrous
I love finely engineered products. That's one of my draws to cycling. Where else can you go, where the comments are almost as entertaining as the main video content. "almost"
I’d like to use a slight film of Honda Bond.. basically a real high quality RTV. Never have to worry about it creaking and totally removable when ready to unthread.
Childish Hambino: you should make your own BB standard, it's been weeks since we have had a new "standard". I blame COVID and lazy Cannondale workers. I recommend a metric diameter converted from British Thermal Units and 0.7mm added and a random letter. The sales feature could be the second decimal, the world needs a 78.27k mm standard. Make sure it never fits the 78.27r standard (which is NOT 78.27R) and never label it.
Ultratorque cups are crap. There's no flange on the inside of the splines so the tool slips off, if you're not super vigilant, and they get messed up by the harder steel of the tool. Do you make any campy replacements?
Looks like the best bb with the least friction ever. At least compared with your other videos. However, I will take a look at your website and order one BSA bb for my bike
Beautiful piece. I also have an older Look frame that "bends" under load in very step climbs, would love it to have your bottom bracket. I've gotten a lot of pushback by bike store managers on mentioning your bottom brackets. They know you and your channel, they keep pushing to buy big-brand BBs instead...from them, of course 😁
do you have a video how to install a bb when the frame has no internal threads. my carbon bike came like that and the workshop installed one. just curious
Hey hambini I had an 2008 fsa gossamer 2x10 crank and the steel shaft broke clean off from the left side ,and I had a bad crash.the preload was set properly with a torque tool. My Question is this: can the shaft fail like that?.Thanks in advance.
Hi Hambini. Could you explain how DS LH thread and NDS RH thread gets to be self tightening? On the surface this seems counter-intuitive. What happens in the bb when the spindle/crankset spins in the direction of unthreading? I think all mechanics have seen cups with tight bearings that has worked them selves out and jammed under the increasing preload.. Oh. I think I've just answered my own question. The outer race wants to spin in the opposite direction under normal load?
Sounds like you have a well-aligned frame so off the shelf BBs will work well for you. Think the Hambini product is more for frames with imperfect alignment **edit for clarification** from play in the threads.
@@olisharp6801 That might be true for the classic hambini BBs (for PressFit), but like he says in this video: his threaded BB demands very accurate alignment, otherwise the two parts won't fit together when threading in the cups. So these BSA cups from Hambini won't work in shitty frames.
I have an older MTB frame with a 68mm wide shell currently it has a 73mm BB with 2x2.5mm spacers. Which is better 68mm road bb with no spacers or 73mm MTB BB with spacers? Assuming that there are no chainline/clearance issues with a road/gravel BB and crankset.
Darn I wished you'd offered this sooner. What difference between BB with nylon shim vs metal to metal like Wheel Manufacture, Hope, Enduro (I don't know the specific bearing number off hand). Anecdotally I always had better luck with metal to metal, including dare I admit 1st gen GXP pre-wave washer. BTW between your video on Campy cranks and doing some digging around on Sheldon Brown page. I now absolutely now understand why threaded is an anachronisms is it was designed for cup and cone system and threads set the pre-load. The reason the cartridge Octalink and sq taper (Phil Wood, Shimano UD55) work so well as you pointed out the bearing are pressed onto the axle have superior performance. It wasn't the threading made work better those BB superior. They could have pressed in like a headset and they would have worked just as well, threading was just a convenience. I guess come down fact as long as cranks are two piece vs three piece (like DA 7700 or Ultegra 6500) all these from THM to FSA (and everything inbetween) is gonna under perform and be high maintainance
The frames bottom bracket shell will drive the alignment, the tight fitting 2 part sleeve is not stiff enough to overcome bad bottom bracket shell geometry.
@@Hambini I guess it might be able to do that. You do any testing to see if it actually works? Threaded interfaces do have clearance so theoretically this could align the two sides within that slop. From a practical standpoint I would be suspicious of it doing much, hopefully it does ;-)
Everyone keeps talking about the new Specialized SL7, I hope this beautiful piece of engineering finds its way onto some handmade Condor, Sarto or Legend framesets. I prefer the aluminium because it doesn’t look like a stock Shimano.
Hey Hambini, another great video. Just wondering, if ever you'd like to make a video about bike wheel balacing, and if it's worth it in any way with some scientific data !
@@thebrowns5337 do you have a link for it ? I just see one saying how to proceed. But with no real analysis about any gains in rolling resistence X confort X Cornering VS high speed (> than 50 km/h)
How about the 73mm width frames, will it work with a couple of 2.5mm spacers? And I assume those are for 30mm spindles, how about 24mm ones, will you make those? Would you sell the shell without bearings so I can fit 24mm inner D bearings?
Hi, is the self tightening ok for other bb? I looks like it’s snug but definitely not 40nm. Can you explain? I’d like to save money and not buy this torque wrench. Thank you!
I can confirm that the ring type bb cup tool is much better than the open ended. I bought a shimano open ended one around the year 2000 and it spreads when trying to remove a tight cup and slips on the cup
Hey Mumbai, next time you are installing a BB take a small file or 80 grit sand paper to that "paint over-spray" rim area on the frame prior to install.
I wish this product was available 2 months ago. I got some Rotor BSA cups, removed the cheap bearings and installed some nice Hambini NTN 6806 bearings (386EVO crank on BB30 shell). Which got me thinking, will the removal and installation of bearings eventually wear the fit in the cups?
Tony Diez probably. It’s alloy vs hardened steel. But would you rather wear out a $250 BB (which includes bearings) or your $3000 frame? The Hambini approach is so much better than any other BB implementation that it kind of boggles the mind. How is this not the industry standard
@Hambini What bearing would be inside an external cup, BSA square taper bottom bracket? I understand square taper cranks are 17mm in diameter so it would be 17mm ID, but I don't have calipers to measure the OD.
Newer MTB BB's are using a smaller diameter bearing (Most come with a plastic adaptor to go into the BB tool used in the video to fill the space between the tool and the new smaller BB cups - interestingly it won't fit the 1/2" drive socket I got for the original size because there's a lot less clearance between the inner diameter of the tool and the outer diameter of the BB cup). As a result, it's possible that some of the newer cranks are making use of the freed up space, so they won't fit over a bigger BB cup. I've not put enough miles on the smaller size BB's yet (I've only worn out 2 of them) to have a feel for whether they're as durable as the older ones, but I am getting some serious creaking on the one fitted to one of my bikes under high torque, which hasn't happened with the previous 2 BB's in that frame before, so provisionally I'm falling towards less durable.
Hi there! I got a question... Am in need of 37mm pressfit cups for putting a hollowtech 24mm axle into a chromo 4130 bmx frame 68mm wide bb. Are there pressfit cups for? Or do i better get wider bearings since that also might be a solution to get the chain allingment strait? Keep Up doing the Good work and being critical and honest about "our" bike world 🌶️👍🏼🙏🏽
Hi Hambini, in your video, you mentioned 20-30 Nm of torque of tightening. But on your website, it says "Tightening Torque of 8Nm (BSA Bottom brackets will self tighten)". So, which should I follow as I intend to swop my Hambini BB from my Roubaix to my Aethose. Thanks!
@@Hambini Thank you for your very quick reply, I am actually moving my Hambini Racing BSA Bottom Bracket SRAM DUB from my Roubaix to my new Aethos; so, would you recommend me to stay with just 8Nm of tightening torque? Anyway, I have to compliment how smooth and stiff this BB is!! Absolutely incredible BB.
Omg, self tighten??
Ha ha ha ha, idiot.
Clearly you don't understand the concept of reactive forces
Ever wondered, why it's the same with pedal threads, genius?
@@MrSuicycle I always leave pedals to self tighten with the minimum of tightening on installation. Otherwise they are a pain to get off.
(Read this in your nice voice because I'm not trying to be rude) Think about this 🤔 if you don't agree with Hambini then just clearly explain why he's wrong and why you're right. Hambini wouldn't have a channel if he called someone a wanker then asked us to like, sub, bell his five second video. People are interested in what he has to say because he'll call out a wanker then spend 45 minutes explaining in detail the design flaws and how it could be improved.
If you call someone an idiot then back it up with an explanation. If you don't think he's right I would love to hear an explanation. Trust me I love counter arguments it's how things get better.
If Hambini calls someone a wanker and doesn't explain why then he would seem like a dick. Because he explains himself he comes across as being fed up.
It looked counter-intuitive to me too, so I looked it up with Google, here is what I got:
Are bottom bracket threads backwards?
Dear Lennard,
The way the bottom bracket thread standard is, it would cause a bottom bracket cup to loosen when pedaling if a bottom bracket bearing gets too tight. It seems that if the drive-side is right-hand thread and the non-drive-side is left-hand, then the pedaling motion will not cause the cups to loosen. Did someone got it wrong originally or is there a good reason for it? Luckily bottom brackets are becoming threadless.
- Ned
Dear Ned,
Actually, the English standard bottom bracket threads are set up correctly. When the bearings are functioning properly, pedaling tightens the cups in. When the bearings are seized up, pedaling would loosen the cups.
If that’s not clear, then think about it for a moment. The drive-side cup is left-hand threaded, so if the crank were affixed to the cup like a wrench (as would happen if the bearings were seized up), pedaling forward would turn the cup clockwise, which would unscrew the left-hand-threaded cup. But if the bearing turns freely, then the spindle turning clockwise rolls the ball bearings along with it, and the outboard side of each ball turns the opposite direction of the inboard side of the ball. So, the free-rolling balls are tightening the cup in further as the rider pedals forward.
The inverse is of course true for the non-drive-side cup. And pedal threads behave the same way, even though the drive-side pedal is right-hand thread and the non-drive-side pedal is left-hand threaded.
― Lennard
"this is a rebuildable bb, not designed as a throwaway item" -- this is almost unheard of these days for any product and even people. Hats off!
The uber wonderful Phil Wood or Royce products will let you do that at a price. But you only buy once
ummm hope tech do just the bearing for their bb as well and have done well before this bb came out. plus they are super easy to replace. did my with a arm in a cast.
@@mattpeters7884 The issue with the hope bBB is that the bearings do not have a nylon/plastic sleeve and so over time they damage the crankset axle
Well, that was much less swearing than I expected 😅
Same here and feeling somewhat cheated.
Must be the new Tourettes medication.
@@colduncan1063 You do feel like you're getting ripped off :)
A little disappointed! Lol 🙂
It's evident there's no swearing because it was engineered properly ... No swearing required
my left ear enjoyed this video
*shifted the balance to the right and laughed 🤣
Righty tighty, lefty tighty. Got it.
Instructions unclear dick stuck in frame
It's still righty tighty just viewed from the other side :)
righty mighty, lefty hefty
Long time no see my friend. Missed you. Whatever is preventing you from making more vids don't bother. We will be right here.
@Gabriel Trainer. Perhaps the two of you should get a room? 🤔😳
Chris Voss and then upload the results :)
@@Lestalad1961 My wife is hotter than Hambini.
@@404nobrakes Besides being a christian I am from an era where a man could greet another without being called a homosexual. But no thanks I have an amazing wife just like Hambini.
@Gabriel Trainer. A four day old slice of toast is hotter than Hambini. Right Sachin? 🤜🏻🤛🏻
Never listen to this lad through headphones. Intro nearly killed me.
Welcome
School boy error! Spot the new boy. 😂
Newbie alert!
you grow to love it. now jus loop it :-)
The great Hambini is a magician. He has a real job, designs bike parts, and runs a UA-cam channel all at the same time.
I purchased one of these a while back but had to put off installing because my road bike frame cracked. When I finally acquired a Waterford frame I installed it with an older Shimano 105 crank. I never knew what I was missing until I experienced the “ice on ice” level of friction of your BB. Thank you so much.
Another Hambini video with no swearing. I'm scared and confused!
There is no swearing because there is nothing "shite" going on in this video
You can't swear when engineering perfection is presented in front of you.
@@Hambini I beg to differ. It's fucking marvelous 😉
@@Hambini Is this BB already sold out?
@@JMcLeodKC711 yes. It's on back order
Excellent - no swearing. I'm so impressed I might buy them when my bearings are shot
So oddly satisfying watching you work.
Loving the raw silver version. Just beautiful
perfect timing for that new tarmac sl7!
Fantastic! Now I know how to install the part that will never be in stock! ;)
Very nice manufacturing there Mr Hambini. That's the way it ought to be done!
Crank went straight through it. Good alignment, good fit. Fully serviceable. I will sleep well tonight.
I’m watching, commenting, and leaving a like for the algorithm
you've won me over with this. I'm saving the video to come back to it for my future bike build
it's been a while.
i thought u were sick.
i like ur vid, it's like Ramsay vids but it's about bicycle.
Nice Work Hambini! Enjoy your videos!
Hi Hambini, Great to know what kind of tools need to prepare, installation steps and the maintenance procedures on your bsa bottom bracket, nice video!
Love it Hambini! Thing of absolute beauty. So happy to see you with another video.
Nice job as usual. We are waiting for the bsa 73mm BB 🙏
When are you going to talk about those Winspace Hyper 50s?
Was there a little hole in the side of them. Not poggers.
Patrick Harvey that’s for draining. You’ll appreciate them when you somehow end up with 500g of water in each rim after a rainy ride and there is literally no way to drain it without taking off your tubeless tires and redoing the whole seating process again
@@404nobrakes its probably for tuning
Hambini my friend, I've missed you. Please keep uploading and keep up the good work.
bottom bracket for life , super impressed ,looking forward to the next sunday roast ,keep up the good work !
I was thinking about the return to threaded BBs that has started with the likes of Trek. They have gone all the way back to an aluminium tube bonded into the BB that cups thread into. Why didn't they make a aluminium tube that bearings can press directly into, essentially like Hambini's BB here and just bond it into the BB shell?
This one is made to replace a HollowTechII BB so the bearings are external to the frame. If someone was designing from scratch they might make it a single part where the external surface is a plain tube and just have internal ridges that the bearings press against. It could be as wide as a current pressfit BB and whatever diameter the frame allows. Is any more required than that?
Pedaling forward could loosen the BB if not fully tightened as you tightened the BB while "pedaling" backwards, same with the pedals I believe the reason for the reverse threads is that BB's and pedals don't become too tight after time. am I misunderstanding??
Could you make a 30mm spindle version of this please?
Thank you Hambini. Look forward to my BSA BB arriving for the Aussie summer! Will rock my Hambini sticker on the frame so everyone I drop knows whats under the hood.
If the bottom bracket threads "inevitibly" get seized, why not use a good anti seize compound instead of grease?
Antiseize if your using ally in a titanium or steel frame isn’t it?
@RollinRat you're someone I wish I could learn from first hand. So much knowledge
@RollinRat Hello, for hollowtech II crank being installed on a Pinarello ITA do you recommend tightening by hand or torquing to 40nm spec? Also, I notice some mechanics will put grease on the BB threads before installing, but Shimano already have blue loctite on their BB threads. Would you just install it straight up?
thanks for this. done it a million times but i always learn more watching your in depth explanations. Eg i always just installed drive side first and then non. if i encounter a bike with poor alignment and wasn't paying attention that could be disastrous
I love finely engineered products. That's one of my draws to cycling. Where else can you go, where the comments are almost as entertaining as the main video content. "almost"
I just bought a Cervelo bike. The Aspera. With the proprietary Cervelo BB. I’ll probably regret it. Damn.
Don't worry. We'll see reaming of your bike by 5 yr old Frenchie soon on this channel.
I’ve been riding my aspero for a while and it has been trouble free. I’m an independant bike mechanic and I’m pleased with the fit and finish.
Get a Hambini BB
@@404nobrakes it won't fit coz the concentricity is shite
Frederic A. Truslow just use a stronger press and ream the f*ck out of the frame
I’d like to use a slight film of Honda Bond.. basically a real high quality RTV. Never have to worry about it creaking and totally removable when ready to unthread.
Couldn’t you make a thread-together bsa bb? Like screw the drive side and then screw the nds in both the bb shell and the drive side?
Thanks , a new 5yr vid. I have been waiting. When will Hambini threaded BB's be available in the shop?
Childish Hambino: you should make your own BB standard, it's been weeks since we have had a new "standard". I blame COVID and lazy Cannondale workers.
I recommend a metric diameter converted from British Thermal Units and 0.7mm added and a random letter. The sales feature could be the second decimal, the world needs a 78.27k mm standard. Make sure it never fits the 78.27r standard (which is NOT 78.27R) and never label it.
Oh...and make sure to use Estonian ambidextrous threading.
@@truantray XD
Arrived in 6 days to San Diego (site said backordered) during covid. woohoo. aerospace quality. AKA, the lick.
Proper 'nd easy installation of bearings - just the thing I needed.
Cheers Hambini 👍👍👌
Loving the polite format, btw 🤗
Hambini...Prince of the Princess blanket!
Oh I like know where I'm coming for next BB well done hambini
Nice BB and bike.
Sorry for not sending the badly/well designed YST BB I said I was going to send.. will do it this week.
quality work Hambini 👍🏻
Love to see a video on treks new threaded bottom bracket. Maybe they watched your video and made the change ;)
Ultratorque cups are crap. There's no flange on the inside of the splines so the tool slips off, if you're not super vigilant, and they get messed up by the harder steel of the tool. Do you make any campy replacements?
Looks like the best bb with the least friction ever. At least compared with your other videos. However, I will take a look at your website and order one BSA bb for my bike
As your unit doesnt have O-ring seals like Shimano would 'boating grease' be more appropriate as water often gathers and condensates in BBs?
Beautiful piece. I also have an older Look frame that "bends" under load in very step climbs, would love it to have your bottom bracket.
I've gotten a lot of pushback by bike store managers on mentioning your bottom brackets. They know you and your channel, they keep pushing to buy big-brand BBs instead...from them, of course 😁
do you have a video how to install a bb when the frame has no internal threads. my carbon bike came like that and the workshop installed one. just curious
are you sure it's not a pressfit? they are usually threaded from the factory if they are bsa
@@Hambini you're correct
I bought a Hambini BB for my BBright bike, and it's fantastic. I definitely want one of these for my older Cervelo.
Would you ever sell delrin go/no go gauges for us to quickly check new frames for being roughly within spec before building up?
Hey hambini I had an 2008 fsa gossamer 2x10 crank and the steel shaft broke clean off from the left side ,and I had a bad crash.the preload was set properly with a torque tool.
My Question is this: can the shaft fail like that?.Thanks in advance.
Hi Mr. Hambini. Why don't you have options to ship to Brazil? Thanks,
Francisco
Hambini has some Winspace hyper wheels! So a review on these wheels at all?
coming soon.
Hi Hambini. Could you explain how DS LH thread and NDS RH thread gets to be self tightening? On the surface this seems counter-intuitive. What happens in the bb when the spindle/crankset spins in the direction of unthreading? I think all mechanics have seen cups with tight bearings that has worked them selves out and jammed under the increasing preload.. Oh. I think I've just answered my own question. The outer race wants to spin in the opposite direction under normal load?
I have been looking at icancycling's frame set. but was wondering how they stack up to the likes of yoeleo frames
Nice, but I think I'll stick with the £25 Ultegra BB. Over 10k miles and still smooth.
Sounds like you have a well-aligned frame so off the shelf BBs will work well for you. Think the Hambini product is more for frames with imperfect alignment **edit for clarification** from play in the threads.
@@olisharp6801 That might be true for the classic hambini BBs (for PressFit), but like he says in this video: his threaded BB demands very accurate alignment, otherwise the two parts won't fit together when threading in the cups. So these BSA cups from Hambini won't work in shitty frames.
How can we help reduce the price? Coz man, I haven't yet replaced even 10 bottom brackets though my whole cycling life...
It looks like going to be my purchase when is time to change BB
So satisfying to watch.
In the long run does the bb make noise on bumbs? Because they'll hit each other? Curious or it's time to service it maybe
Six minutes in, grease everywhere, "you should probably wear gloves" 🤣
I have an older MTB frame with a 68mm wide shell currently it has a 73mm BB with 2x2.5mm spacers. Which is better 68mm road bb with no spacers or 73mm MTB BB with spacers? Assuming that there are no chainline/clearance issues with a road/gravel BB and crankset.
Darn I wished you'd offered this sooner. What difference between BB with nylon shim vs metal to metal like Wheel Manufacture, Hope, Enduro (I don't know the specific bearing number off hand). Anecdotally I always had better luck with metal to metal, including dare I admit 1st gen GXP pre-wave washer.
BTW between your video on Campy cranks and doing some digging around on Sheldon Brown page. I now absolutely now understand why threaded is an anachronisms is it was designed for cup and cone system and threads set the pre-load. The reason the cartridge Octalink and sq taper (Phil Wood, Shimano UD55) work so well as you pointed out the bearing are pressed onto the axle have superior performance. It wasn't the threading made work better those BB superior. They could have pressed in like a headset and they would have worked just as well, threading was just a convenience. I guess come down fact as long as cranks are two piece vs three piece (like DA 7700 or Ultegra 6500) all these from THM to FSA (and everything inbetween) is gonna under perform and be high maintainance
I find the metal park tool can take off the anodised surface colour leaving marks
Kevin Cornish it should come plasti-dipped
I wonder if a small strap wrench would get the job done.
The frames bottom bracket shell will drive the alignment, the tight fitting 2 part sleeve is not stiff enough to overcome bad bottom bracket shell geometry.
It won't install if it is too bad
@@Hambini I just do not see how it will do anything at all. That thin wall tube won't be stiff enough to fight any kind of misalignment.
@@brianbob7514 it's not designed to realign it. It's designed to align it within the threads.
@@Hambini I guess it might be able to do that. You do any testing to see if it actually works? Threaded interfaces do have clearance so theoretically this could align the two sides within that slop. From a practical standpoint I would be suspicious of it doing much, hopefully it does ;-)
Ya the facing/parallelism will drive the final alignment. Which is something i hope all these new carbon bikes with threaded bb shells realise!
If you wanted to only use bearings without a seal, could you make a replacement dust cap that has an o-ring?
Brilliant! bearing removal.
Everyone keeps talking about the new Specialized SL7, I hope this beautiful piece of engineering finds its way onto some handmade Condor, Sarto or Legend framesets. I prefer the aluminium because it doesn’t look like a stock Shimano.
Hey Hambini, another great video. Just wondering, if ever you'd like to make a video about bike wheel balacing, and if it's worth it in any way with some scientific data !
Agree. I am convinced that it is worth it if you go at 80-90 Km/h on a descent.. I no longer do that, but I am still interested.
Park tools did this a year ago. Look it up.
@@thebrowns5337 do you have a link for it ? I just see one saying how to proceed. But with no real analysis about any gains in rolling resistence X confort X Cornering VS high speed (> than 50 km/h)
It could psychosis brought on by lockdown, but didn't you procure a nice bit of Italian crank hardware for the Look aero build?
How about the 73mm width frames, will it work with a couple of 2.5mm spacers?
And I assume those are for 30mm spindles, how about 24mm ones, will you make those?
Would you sell the shell without bearings so I can fit 24mm inner D bearings?
Damn ... i want this but i'm not using shimano 24mm spindle crank ...
Hi, is the self tightening ok for other bb? I looks like it’s snug but definitely not 40nm. Can you explain? I’d like to save money and not buy this torque wrench. Thank you!
I can confirm that the ring type bb cup tool is much better than the open ended. I bought a shimano open ended one around the year 2000 and it spreads when trying to remove a tight cup and slips on the cup
Hey Mumbai, next time you are installing a BB take a small file or 80 grit sand paper to that "paint over-spray" rim area on the frame prior to install.
Practical,easy and less waste. What do the bike manufacturers get out of making things so fuckin awkward? Thanks Hambini you 5 year old princess.
Great thoroughly informative video. How does it hold up during winter riding (grit/snow/ice etc); or does it totally depend on the bearings?
what year is it? So nostalgic, a retro Hambini video here
I wish this product was available 2 months ago. I got some Rotor BSA cups, removed the cheap bearings and installed some nice Hambini NTN 6806 bearings (386EVO crank on BB30 shell). Which got me thinking, will the removal and installation of bearings eventually wear the fit in the cups?
Tony Diez probably. It’s alloy vs hardened steel. But would you rather wear out a $250 BB (which includes bearings) or your $3000 frame? The Hambini approach is so much better than any other BB implementation that it kind of boggles the mind. How is this not the industry standard
Ready for the SL7 Tarmac 😂
@Hambini
What bearing would be inside an external cup, BSA square taper bottom bracket? I understand square taper cranks are 17mm in diameter so it would be 17mm ID, but I don't have calipers to measure the OD.
I like the design detail in ur BB. would be nice if there was a stockist.
@hambini Have a look at the new enve tyres in your Sunday roundup
Brilliant! Have something on GXP Italian threaded? 😬
Does the bearing have a direction to be followed ,Sorry about the silly question
Please make a silver BB in Italian thread. My Colnago Master needs this 👍
Afraid your only option is campagnolo right now
@@FLMKane I bet Hambini would do one thread the opposite direction if asked.
*Volume down
*Play video
*Volume up
Hello! If my bike has a misalignment. Is it still usable?
still waiting for parts for the rest of the aero bike on the cheap?
coming soon. I'm riding on the bike now.
@@Hambini are you riding it round a velodrome do see how aero it is? (please, please, please get aerocoach to test it)
Hey Hambini, would this work with a mtb 73mm application, or are you planning this version by any chance? Cheers
BSA30 73mm would be quite nice... :)
It will work with a 73mm BB, you just need to give him £35 for a 50p spacer.
It will work but you won't get the beenefit of the alignment. The centre section will be 5mm too short.
Newer MTB BB's are using a smaller diameter bearing (Most come with a plastic adaptor to go into the BB tool used in the video to fill the space between the tool and the new smaller BB cups - interestingly it won't fit the 1/2" drive socket I got for the original size because there's a lot less clearance between the inner diameter of the tool and the outer diameter of the BB cup). As a result, it's possible that some of the newer cranks are making use of the freed up space, so they won't fit over a bigger BB cup. I've not put enough miles on the smaller size BB's yet (I've only worn out 2 of them) to have a feel for whether they're as durable as the older ones, but I am getting some serious creaking on the one fitted to one of my bikes under high torque, which hasn't happened with the previous 2 BB's in that frame before, so provisionally I'm falling towards less durable.
@@Hambini Maybe increase the overlap on the non drive side so it suits both widths?
Is it recommended to put grease on the crank spindle? Thanks
Very nice work and affordable.
Hi there!
I got a question...
Am in need of 37mm pressfit cups for putting a hollowtech 24mm axle into a chromo 4130 bmx frame 68mm wide bb.
Are there pressfit cups for?
Or do i better get wider bearings since that also might be a solution to get the chain allingment strait?
Keep Up doing the Good work and being critical and honest about "our" bike world 🌶️👍🏼🙏🏽
Hambini - how do I check that my bottom bracket shell has been manufactured to the correct dimensions/standard in order to accept your BB?
@RollinRat Thanks for the reply! Is this something I could do myself? Presumably I would need some specialist tools?
Hi Hambini, in your video, you mentioned 20-30 Nm of torque of tightening. But on your website, it says "Tightening Torque of 8Nm (BSA Bottom brackets will self tighten)". So, which should I follow as I intend to swop my Hambini BB from my Roubaix to my Aethose.
Thanks!
It's a different torque depending on the type. BSA large format bottom bracket systems have much lower torque because their sidewalls are thin
@@Hambini Thank you for your very quick reply, I am actually moving my Hambini Racing BSA Bottom Bracket SRAM DUB from my Roubaix to my new Aethos; so, would you recommend me to stay with just 8Nm of tightening torque?
Anyway, I have to compliment how smooth and stiff this BB is!! Absolutely incredible BB.
I wonder if I can use this on my brompton
Does it work with campy powertorque or ultratorque? If not is there a campy comparable model in the works?