On the hydrodynamic lubrication slide where you said you lifted the diagrams, the downward force is applied to the shaft whereas with these pedals the downward force is applied to the shell so I think the proper diagram would have the pressure distribution on top of the shaft for these pedals.
You are right and the pedal speed is not high enough but I have to draw the line somewhere between how detailed I make it and the knowledge of the average youtube viewer. If i was going to be completely pedantic, I'd have to do a viscosity chart of the fluid, the film thickness, boundary stress etc. I've kind of left it as very thick oil (ie grease) and make it incompressible in a closed space.
As someone who uses these pedals I can tell you they work great. Always a simple click in. Great when you are on a hill and stop at a stop light then have to click in and go. The side to side is a non issue
Do i assume right there could be a walkable version? If the protruding part was thicker and a sole extended backwards, so the heel is elevated perhaps.
what is the draw to these peddles? I use LOOK peddles and KEO cleat system for years. I personally do not see a benefit of clipping in faster, maybe for XC or something this would be nice but I really cant understand the draw. Interested to hear why you decided to go with them
@@zacharyerskine4277 I have used looks since the very beginning. Had to order them mail order. This is the exact response I got when I showed up at a group ride many many years ago with the first look pedals. Pedal design stopped years ago. What I like about these pedals is I don’t have to think about putting my foot down on the pedals. One of the reason many do not use clipless pedals. As a long term rider you learn the dance of the foot to get your foot and pedal to engage. That doesn’t mean that it is a good thing.
@@zacharyerskine4277 It. really is removing an issue of having to have a pedal in a specific rotation to clip in. Whether you see the benefit of it or not, it makes sense. it's like quick release wheels. Not everyone is going to see the benefit of them...but they are most certainly an advancement. I don't see the benefit of a compact chainring I don't see the benefit of carbon bikes I don't see the benefit of pressfit botto...actually...no...I really don't lol If there is a benefit and that outweighs the negatives then it is an advancement and improvement I'd argue. I'll happily admit that starting up again on steep inclines at lights, or even flat at lights, i've missed clip ins. When you are trying to get across a road quickly, being able to clip in a bit quicker could be life saving.
Switched to Bebop pedals years ago, they are still kicking around, all the benefits of speedplay with a low profile metal cleat, used them on road, mountain, recreation + cyclocross always worked, change the cleats every 5 years, bearings in the pedals every 3 years. They never wear out.
the biggest drawback for me would be that you could only ride your in your cycling shoes. I often use mine for short trips around town in any sorts of shoes, even flip flops :)
Embroidered logo and all those systainers in the back, reaming is working out! I actually like the idea of these pedals on a mountain bike, getting clipped in on techy stuff or in the mud can be a real challenge.
I wonder what these are like for sprinting. You’re putting an awful lot of faith in that little blade spring to stay clipped in during the upstroke (yes, the hook is supposed to take the load, but if the spring falls off you’re not staying clipped in).
If I were to use road pedals on my road bike I would certainly give these a shot. Like them very much. But I don't think I will ever give up my super lightweight LOOK Mountain Bike pedals. Cheers!
On the website it shows a picture of the bike leaning. I don't ever think you would be peddling at that degree. Only the raw design makes it look long you can pedal out of the corner as early as you would dare
Looks interesting! I'd like to see it developed a little more, maybe with some simple preload adjustment and an option to remove that 15mm of lateral float. Could make a wider cleat option or narrower spindle- I wonder if it's partly designed in to help with accessibility and "speed" of use. Maybe a lead-in chamfer on the cleat could help out if needed. I think some titanium componentry would also have weight weenies swarming for the carbon ones. I wonder how it goes with mud/grit clearance. The 5 degree float would help push the mud out towards the sides but the fixed cleat seems like a pretty tight fit with no clear exit path for debris. Earlier metal prototype versions feature drilled holes at the back of the cleat block presumably to save weight. Maybe something similar could be done to direct grime out the back upon clipping in. Thanks for the video :)
I might be a minority, but Shimano SPD mtb pedals has been a true wonder in 5 years of hammering them. I have them in all my 5 bikes and my oldest is 30.000 kms without any service to them. The cleats are still fine and the shoes let me walk in any surface (like a human being to boot). The pedals are heavy but they the closest part to my bike that can be labeled as indestructible. I'm always looking for a good reason to change them, but these new pedals are not it unfortunately.
I CONCUR! Same here. The dummies at Bontrager started making Espresso road shoes for SPD without a cleat recess with this model year! Fixed gear on slippery cleats is not my idea of safety. It'll be mtb shoes or nothing next time! I trust the engagement more than road pedals. Break out of the bindings, and you lose 1/3 of your braking even with a front brake. Maintenance is also absurdly easy.
Agreed. They are a great compromise for being clipped in and being able to walk in the shoes.. I have various pedal versions on MTBs and road bikes, some pedals with platforms, others without, single and double sided. All using the same cleat type on winter boots, MTB shoes and road shoes. The cleats are inexpensive and are available loads of places.
Same here. I have dual SPD pedals that i use with some good stiff shoes when i wanna get "serious", but otherwise i can go pick up my daughter from school with the same bike without having to grab the specific shoes and/or change pedals!
It's been done before, about 30 years ago. The cleat worked like a cork screw and it was fairly high. I saw them in a shop on Lamb's Conduit St in London called Bike fix and it was the frame builder who used to be out the rear of the building called Sonic frames and the chap was called Helmut Burns and he was using them, I may have got the spelling wrong on his name.
There was also a version of these in the States about 30 years ago, cleat was a solid piece of plastic which snapped over spindle. No float, and if I recall, guy who used them was forever tightening screws to shoes as cleats were made from delrin or some kind of slippery plastic.
@@kennethward9530 Yup. Those were Aerolites. I had a pair. Super tricky to get into and walking on the cleat was memorably challenging. I just googled them and apparently the co. still exists.
@@kennethward9530 I had these for a bit - but cleat kept migrating off as I rode. I returned them to the store and got my money back. They looked like perfect idea when they came out.
Because they are wider than normal clipless pedals, so the bike’s cornering angle would be lower than with other pedals. More concerning is the fact that the end is basically a rod, so if it does contact the road surface, it is likely to catch and cause a crash. This isn’t really a problem for normal riding, but it pedal strikes not uncommon in racing, especially criteriums.
These look like a variation of the Aerolite Clipless pedal system. I have something similar to these sitting in the garage I got from some Chinese manufacture a long time ago, although their cleat system was more finicky.
This is an elegant clipless retention system. I just wish there was a defined inner shoulder on the pedal shaft so that one could have a more definite Q-factor/pedal stance width. The 10-15 mm variance is a little too big; I reckon most folks just need enough room to unclip from the pedal easily (perhaps 2 mm?). I'm more partial to two-bolt cleats, but these look very well thought through for a three-bolt system.
I wish I had data to counter this idea, even if only for my benefit. The variance in my step while walking has to be >0.5mm at times. I just switched back to yellow Shim cleats after a couple years of Shim blues, and my knees appreciate it so far. I'm getting the feeling our bodies adapt more rather than less to variance in situations.
I had some in the 90s called aerolites. They look nice, were super light and had NO rotation which messed up my knee. They were sold for a while (it was my friend's company) but I have not seen them in years
Looks a good design. What’s the pressure distribution like compared to conventional Shimano/Look pedals where they’ve made a flatter platform over the years for even power transfer
Exactly my concern. In this design the cleat is essentially there to act as a virtual pedal body that's permanently attached to the shoe. Would be nice to know how solid the cleat was underfoot when pedaling for longer stints.
Brillant design! I agree the lateral slide between the cleat and the axle needs to be minimized. You can improve the life of the cleat by introducing a replaceable 'foot'....probably made out of rubber. you would also reduce the skidding around that comes with wearing cleats.
I feel hambini made a slight error and stating the Q factor slid back and forth. When you put your foot against the carbon guide washer that's where your foot will slide into on the pedal it's a guide. If any movement can happen after the spring metal has attached it can only move out very slowly until it hits the stop
I agree these pedals look similar to other shaft pedals but we were able to work out all the bugs. Hambini even helped us out with our instructions as we had made one slight error in our wording
Hello Hambini - how do hydrodynamic bearings measure up in terms of friction? I'm thinking about the likes of the Porsche and Ducati engines that used roller bearings to avoid the frictional losses arising from plain bearings. This is also in the context that a pressure fed oil hydrodynamic bearing is going to have less friction than one that just relies on grease. Come to that, it a grease bearing really hydrodynamic anyway given the viscosity of grease?
Simplicity of the clip mechanism is awesome. Hope, they can keep it that way during the further development. The non-bearing version is a very elegant solution, but there are a lot of situations, when you don't pedal, but just stand on the pedals, so it might be race-worthy but not for a daily runner. Test the resistance compared to Dura Aces or similar traditional builds!
I would agree standing still there would be the least amount of lubricant but it would still be there. Instantly it would read lubricate itself to maximum amount
There will always be lubricant at the bottom of the pedal not as much as on the sides but there will be lubricant. As soon as you make one rotation he will even out the lubricant
@@mikelohmeyer4140 yeah but when standing still the contact point is at the top of the circle because if you see an upvoted comment which also points this out, the foot is applying pressure to the outer shell, and the crank is attached to the inner shaft. Meaning the outer shell will be pressing down on the top of the inner shaft, with oil sitting below the inner shaft and above the bottom of the outer shell where no pressure is. Though you're absolutely right that this is solved by a pedal rotation, it's still fair to point out that this is probably better on bikes that stay in motion in the peloton rather than a commuter.
We appreciate the help from hambini on our pedal system. But we feel he made an error by stating the cleats slides left and right on the pedal. When you put your foot against a carbon washer and slide forward that's where your foot will be located. If there is any movement at all after that it will only be outward very slowly until it contacts this stop at the end of the pedal which is only about a quarter of an inch.
Once your foot has engaged using the carbon guide washer your foot can only move slightly outward if anything in momentum of peddling is what makes that happen if it even happens. The spring steel is tight and it's not easy for it to move out to the stop on the end
What is the function of the carbon plate on the lighter pedal? Seems like you could just not have it? Do you not attach the cleat with a 3rd bolt at the top?
@@benandbarny1 Shouldn't the shoulder on the "pedal" do that? At 1:50 or 2:45 you can see that the pedal body flares outwards between the plate and the area you actually clip onto. No other pedal has this kind of design feature.
Back in the 80s there was some pedal that was just a spindle. I think the main application was for track cycling. I think you somehow slid out the end of the spindle to disengage. I don't recall I could not get my head around them
Frenchi ! I like these pedals and the job you've done on them. Perhaps Pitbull will come out with a thin TITanium cleat protector for walking on the cleats. So I'm a big fan of hydrodynamic lubrication and have often wondered why bicycle wheel bearings don't just use a tapered adjustable or shim adjustable plain bearing system bathed in oil ? It works on the front wheels of trucks ( I think you call them lorries in France) as well as in Rohloff, Shimano & Sturmey hubs. If it was just for the wheel bearings and not a gearbox wouldn't it work swimmingly ?
I had the idea back in the late 80’s for a pedal like this. Except the cleat was a cylinder that slid over the pedal shaft and was held in with an adjustable tension detent ball on the outside end of the shaft.
So did quite a few pedal manufactures that were trying to stay in business after 1985. The main issue with the few that went on the market was they were never as comfortable as Look pedals were. They required basically using an entire pedal sized cleat for stiffness, and even then the technology for cycling shoe soles at the time really didn't provide comfortable support on them.
@@firesurfer if you're talking about aerolite pedals, I remember the bottom was molded as a curved tapered to the spindle, which made walking really hard.
I think that recent bike shoes are designed to take areal loads. Despite of the thin plastik adapter this system works with line load characteristic. The shoe sole will bend, deform and break earlier than using a conventional click pedal. (still using time tbt shoes+pedals from 90s 😉)
Solid argument. Wouldn't the mount itself spread some of that load though rather than just being the axel width itself? Depending on how it is designed.
Thanks for the video. The concept isn’t new - aka minimalist pedal design - but the execution here is. There was a pedal made here in the US back in the 80s that was bare bones and consisted of just a spindle; the “bearing” was the cleat which I think was made of Delrin, and that was it. Walking about was wonky because the cleats really protruded out as they were molded to fit the spindle. It was a very lightweight design that had its fans among American weight weenies, because the stainless steel version I think weighed well under 200 grams for the works- both pedals, cleats, etc. A titanium version was even lighter, maybe 100 grams or less IIRC. I don’t know if the manufacturer is still around or if that design is still protected by patent, which to me would explain why these new pedals are a bit over-engineered, if you ask me. These could be a good product but I think will be a niche item that will probably be accepted by weight weenies, triathletes, and people like that.
Interesting. They do look quite bad to walk on (would appreciate more comment from Hambini on that). I do like the minimalist design though. Looks like a very easy clip in. I think these might do ok, as long as they are decent quality and longevity.
Hmm looking at a Cycling Weekly review they are bemoaning the lack of fore/aft adjustment on the cleat. That's a deal breaker for me as I like to slam my (Speedplay) cleats as far back as possible. Also the foot engages in a different position on the axle each time hence the variable Q-factor.
I believe our cleat system already pushes the axle closer to the heel and there is adjustment in the road shoe. If you use the guide washer to locate your foot on the pedal the spring steel will pretty much hold your foot exactly where you put it. If you have some type of an odd pedal stroke that will overpower the springsteel your foot can slide only outward just a little a small amount
I have a pair of round pedals. Tririg Mercury. Actually surprised these don’t infringe on patents as it’s also a USA company. Those are Titanium. Really light. 35g rings a bell. Assume that’s one side, no cleats. Adjustable Q factor. No side to side movement. No float at all. No tension adjustment though. Found you can pull a foot out when sprinting. I think they’re good for my TT bike but not Road bikes where you want to feel more secure. Edited to clarify. By adjustable Q factor I mean in the workshop, not during a ride.
Incidentally those came with two different diameter outer part for the hydrodynamic bearing because shoes can vary a bit in how flat of curved they are and this can interact with the size of the cleat. Assume that was a bug they discovered after selling some.
These pedals are fully patented and gone through ISO testing. With the adjustment if you just keep going you will not get out so you must determine your own retention
I am curious to know how these compare to pedals that have a wider cleat like SPD-SL in terms of force distribution. The cleats and the pedals interface look like they would concentrate the force on a fairly narrow contact point along the axle. Unless that cleat is extremely stiff, it could bend on the power stroke and absorb energy. Even if the cleat was stiff enough your foot would be seesawing on a fulcrum. This will not be desirable if you are looking for a stable platform or one that can transfer power efficiently.
Get very stiff shoes these days. They should support the cleat. All pedals have a spindle that bends with the stroke that’s exactly what they use to measure power in power pedals.
The cleats are made out of glass filled nylon and they run across the entire pedal which you're stiff road bike shoe sits on top of that the load is evenly dispersed
Can tell you for a fact that tiny m2.5? Tension adjustment grub screw hex is going to get clogged with mud being where it is. Not a problem in California but it won't work in Europe! Also why such a huge bearing on the bearing version? Made for an elephant? Interesting no bearing version, most pedals with IGUS bushings have at least 0.1mm radial slop when new, so maybe this is on to something. Get rid of it completely.
The standard Pitbull pedal went through complete ISO testing. It is the Workhorse of the two. ISO test is they hang 200 lb off of the pedal and spin it at 100 RPM for like 18 hours. OMG!
A great and easy concept, but the float side to side wouldn’t be ideal. Think this would be awesome for a bike fit so you could adjust a factor, but then to somehow have a fixed point to stop any lateral movement.
I'd imagine the float is probably a USP. How many people are locked into a specific offset that perhaps doesn't best suit them, where these one might find a natural position? almost like the angle float, you have a lateral float?
You use the guide washer to engage your cleat on to the pedal you will pretty much stay in that position for the entire ride. I guess if you had an unorthodox pedal stroke there is room for it to move but there's free movement from side-to-side
TriRig already had a really nice set of the exact same thing called the Mercury recently. This isn't new, and due to the many attempts over the last few decades, have proven that its nice, gets reinvented, but doesn't last. The TriRig version was much lighter and didn't need bearings.
Due to the length, the pedal looks prone to hitting the ground if leaning into a corner while pedalling and that amount of float is a major deal breaker
I guess that can easily be compensated with a bit of riding technique, like lifting the inner pedal on corners as you should. However, Tom Pidcock wouldn't approve of them for losing a few degrees of lean angle.
Thought I might add a comment on the topic as well, pedals look good, but i do believe there is another pedal with a straight shaft?? Anyone can chime in. The only thing I don't like is it will be difficult to walk in with that bar being half way down the shoe.
Aerolite pioneered the spindle as pedal in the 1990's, also HDPE as bushings. Very lite, popular in triathlon, but cleats were impossible to walk on and very fussy to install. While I'm grousing, hydration packs first marketed to time trialists as aero aid in the 80's, SkidLid helmets had MIPS technology in 1974, but Bell, Snell, and ANSI killed that.
Do you know when they implemented your feedback? The set I ordered arrived a week ago and I noticed the box was already opened and taped back up. Will you look into the TT22 from mid-foot cycling?
@@beltonhogueI wouldn't buy the mid-foot pedals mostly because of the price. I don' t have the need for something that specialized. I am more curious about the engineering of them. Looking at the pictures they have online, the axle is all bearings; The anthesis of the KOM pedal.
Definitely an interesting looking solution for a pdeal/cleat system. As it stands currently that "Q Factor" movement could be an annoying thing espeically for those who are more sensitive to change in stance/pedal width but it COULD be something they could actually use as a good selling point, maybe something @Hambini could feed back to them that if they were to provide some kind of fittable spacers in different sizes that you could place on the inside, outside, or combo of both that it could make their pedal system one where the same basic system can easily be configured for a range of Q-Factor/Stance widths with only the addition/removal/positioning of a spacer of some sort (maybe a 2-part U washer that clips onto the outer axle) - let's say the total amount of play/movement is currently 15mm, is they provided 1 10mm and 1 5mm attachable spacer it would allow people to have them arranged with 0, 5, 10, or 15 mm of inside fill, so 0/5/10/15mm increases in Q-Factor by putting the spacers either both inside, one either side in either combination of 5/10 or 10/5, or both outside. This could also mean that if you change bike or groupset and your new crankset has a different Q-Factor you could compensate for the difference via your pedal axle spacers
@@MikeLohmeyer That's kind of the issue though. If you clip in you're locked in the wrong position. So either you keep on trying until you nail the spot or you roll with it.
@@MikeLohmeyer But if you need to make the washer fit exactly the widht of the pedal, wouldn't that defy the whole idea of fast clip? and if it doesn't, you could easily be a few mms or even a cm off in each direction randomly.
@@bimbogiallo So you are telling me that a human being can tell if the Q factor is off by MM . I say know way as there are so many moving parts !! Try to put your hand down 10 times in the same place down to a 2 or 3 MM spot. And that in your hand .
I have done a century ride in my Kom pedals the pedal goes across your entire shoe and your cleat goes across the entire pedal and all of that is resting on your hard road bike shoe.:-)
Seems like they could make different length shafts with spacers to lock in and or adjust Q factor. I am very sensitive to Q factor and require the least amount possible.
@@mikelohmeyer4140 the stop could be angled so as to retain the quick entry. Also if shorter axles were used the end could be angled to help guide the cleat in. These parts could be available at an additional cost for those who want it.
There might be just a little misunderstanding as far as the Q factor. On the Kom we use the carbon disc to help guide you in the same place every time. If your body is telling you that you need a wider Q factor your shoe will simply slip outward. It's only about a quarter of an inch and then it hits the stop at the end of the pedal.
@@mikelohmeyer4140 sorry, I need a narrow Q factor. As narrow as possible. I am 5’3” tall male. My hips are narrow. Bikes are not built for small people. Q factors are to wide. Bottom brackets to high, crank arms to long. Wheels to big. Small frame sizes have poor handling due to steep seat post and shallow head tube angles. The solution is 650c wheels. But tire selection is very poor. I ride with time I click carbon pedals. I machined the shafts to move the peddles in ward. I also machined my custom 600 mm carbon crank pedal mounts. In total I reduced Q factor by 6mm. Should I purchase your pedals I would remove the carbon shield. Machine the mount thinner. Matching a new outer shaft that is narrow with a angled outer side. Instal the carbon shield on this and shorten the inner shaft. I will try I light synthetic grease inside. The design looks great. A very stiff carbon sole shoe will be necessary to prevent hot spots.
Hej! Are this "pedals" better or worse than other systems? I don't know if you can measure this, is there any lost in "power" between the foot and pedal? If there is to little oil in that pedal must be a problem, have they a recommendation of how much and what kind of oil to use?
These pedals are very simple in design and maintenance. There's a video on the website showing re lubricating the Kom. Takes about 1 minute per pedal and last for long long time.
I love the simplicity of the system and minimal design. The large exposed cleat wouldn't work very well for mtb or cx and does anyone really need fast clipping on a road shoe? I have 3 pairs of shoes to use across 5 bikes, i'm not trying to have multiple systems, m540 on everything and then use whatever shoe I feel like.
I think one of the big benefits is for New Riders to be able to learn and clip-in real easy quickly and safely and get their eyes back up on the road. In group rides there's nothing worse than missing your pedal and holding up a group at a red light trying to clip in.
I use Speedplay and like the few degrees of rotation float, but my forefoot is staying in the same place. I could not tolerate the side to side sliding of the whole foot that would happen with these pedals.
They really don't move side to side. The area that were talking about is for quick and safe engagement. If they move at all they will only move one way which is out up against the stop at the end of the pedal
@@mikelohmeyer4140 Agreed the cleats were hard to walk on. And installation required precise drilling into your shoes (measure twice, drill once!). I disagree that you couldn't push and pull when pedaling. At the time I also worked in a bike shop so I got to try lots of different pedals. I found Aerolites to be the best in terms of security & retention. Push, pull, stand on them, whatever, they were completely secure, would not slip or pop out.
Hopefully we have been able to make an improvement on the pedal system. We were able to get a patent on it so there is some differences for sure. I think we have them Priced Right so everyone can enjoy them but that's just an opinion
There is no chance of any vibration as the gaps Illustrated from hambini were blowing up the actual Kom Gap inside the pedal is like the thickness of a piece of newspaper. The training pedal has 4 bearings inside of it and went through complete ISO testing
This idea looks almost too good to be true. What happens if you get mud in your cleat? There is nowhere for it to go (whereas with a traditional MTB cleat it kind of gets displaced by the various edges).
They remind me of the Aerolite pedals which are sub 70 grams iirc. The axles look looong and the cleats look like they'd be hard to walk in. I havent seen a pair in our shop yet. The word on the street is that they are for 'beginners' ...Serious riders don't seem to be interested. Maybe if they priced them much higher, people would take them more seriously.
We have a money back guarantee that says that the pedals will do exactly what we are saying or you can get a refund. We have them priced very reasonable so everyone can enjoy them. I walked over to Miles during testing on a sidewalk.
The side to side movement would long term cause problems with knees and hips. Especially the more tired a rider gets and the sloppier their form becomes.
So basically, they've moved the engagement mechanism off of the pedal and onto the cleat. Increasing the cost of the fast wearing component? I'd rather the mechanics was retained in the pedal, which i would expect to last years and years before a replacement or refurb, and keep the cleats, which I would replace every 6 months or so due to wear, as cheap as possible.
It's not really surprising a former colleague is working on the infrastructure for electric vehicles it not even close to being ready talking over 10 years
Personally, I like the crank brothers eggbeater pedals, with mountain bike shoes that you can actually walk in. I use them on a road bike. I don't care that they're not technically supposed to be road bike pedals.
Stack height and float is a big issue for me. Does anybody remember Cycle Binding? They were my favorite pedal for years. I could walk on them. Forget about walking on these cleats. I finally went to spds. I still think these are the all round best system.
Was that the one with a recess on the shoe sole? The pedal platform had an angle adjustable, rectangular box sticking up that engaged the shoe sole, so could only use their own shoe. Came out about the same time as the first Looks, marketed to touring riders.
We came up with this idea for safety reasons if you're riding in a group ride and you don't get clipped in the first time at a traffic light the whole group can get messed up. The sooner you get clipped in the sooner your eyes are up looking at oncoming cars. They're definitely not walking shoes but I walked two miles in them during testing
It seems like the cleats should mount to the shoes in the opposite way than they are now, with the downstroke and pulling back of the shoe force going onto the beefy plastic part of the cleat.
haha so many times i'm saying to the screen: "stick it in a vise!" Would make it much clearer to show play, movement, measurements... and then you did!
On the hydrodynamic lubrication slide where you said you lifted the diagrams, the downward force is applied to the shaft whereas with these pedals the downward force is applied to the shell so I think the proper diagram would have the pressure distribution on top of the shaft for these pedals.
You are right and the pedal speed is not high enough but I have to draw the line somewhere between how detailed I make it and the knowledge of the average youtube viewer. If i was going to be completely pedantic, I'd have to do a viscosity chart of the fluid, the film thickness, boundary stress etc. I've kind of left it as very thick oil (ie grease) and make it incompressible in a closed space.
I just hang myself up side down from the ceiling and then it made sense!
Pressure lube the bb and pedals with an oil reservoir Co2 cartridge, while they're at it! Automotive tech.
@Hambini I'm a dealer are you selling hair dressers by any chance 🫣
@@benthilwind6908 he is pedaling hookers
As someone who uses these pedals I can tell you they work great. Always a simple click in. Great when you are on a hill and stop at a stop light then have to click in and go. The side to side is a non issue
Do i assume right there could be a walkable version? If the protruding part was thicker and a sole extended backwards, so the heel is elevated perhaps.
@@gur262 it is much different that walking in look pedals really
what is the draw to these peddles? I use LOOK peddles and KEO cleat system for years. I personally do not see a benefit of clipping in faster, maybe for XC or something this would be nice but I really cant understand the draw. Interested to hear why you decided to go with them
@@zacharyerskine4277 I have used looks since the very beginning. Had to order them mail order. This is the exact response I got when I showed up at a group ride many many years ago with the first look pedals.
Pedal design stopped years ago.
What I like about these pedals is I don’t have to think about putting my foot down on the pedals. One of the reason many do not use clipless pedals. As a long term rider you learn the dance of the foot to get your foot and pedal to engage. That doesn’t mean that it is a good thing.
@@zacharyerskine4277 It. really is removing an issue of having to have a pedal in a specific rotation to clip in. Whether you see the benefit of it or not, it makes sense.
it's like quick release wheels. Not everyone is going to see the benefit of them...but they are most certainly an advancement.
I don't see the benefit of a compact chainring
I don't see the benefit of carbon bikes
I don't see the benefit of pressfit botto...actually...no...I really don't lol
If there is a benefit and that outweighs the negatives then it is an advancement and improvement I'd argue.
I'll happily admit that starting up again on steep inclines at lights, or even flat at lights, i've missed clip ins. When you are trying to get across a road quickly, being able to clip in a bit quicker could be life saving.
Switched to Bebop pedals years ago, they are still kicking around, all the benefits of speedplay with a low profile metal cleat, used them on road, mountain, recreation + cyclocross always worked, change the cleats every 5 years, bearings in the pedals every 3 years. They never wear out.
the biggest drawback for me would be that you could only ride your in your cycling shoes. I often use mine for short trips around town in any sorts of shoes, even flip flops :)
Funny we offer a flattie just for that reason on our website
the side to side sliding would drive me insane
red cleat clan
Time pedal do the same, I rode time for years, once you get use to it, you don't notice. Now I miss it
It needs turbo encabulation to virtually eliminate side fumbling 🫱🫷🫱🫷🫱🫷 😂😂
I really don't like the thought of my feet sliding from side to side when launching into a sprint
@@mgoo1713That’s not correct mate, Time has cleat float depending, but certainly not axel slide movement of any kind.
Embroidered logo and all those systainers in the back, reaming is working out! I actually like the idea of these pedals on a mountain bike, getting clipped in on techy stuff or in the mud can be a real challenge.
JR: Who could walk safely on uneven terrain with a cleat as high as that on the bottom of their shoe?
I like the simplicity and the main feature of fast engagement! But they look like flat pedals fell apart😅
Great video Hambini. Thanks for the tear-down explanation, I learned a lot.
I wonder what these are like for sprinting. You’re putting an awful lot of faith in that little blade spring to stay clipped in during the upstroke (yes, the hook is supposed to take the load, but if the spring falls off you’re not staying clipped in).
If I were to use road pedals on my road bike I would certainly give these a shot. Like them very much. But I don't think I will ever give up my super lightweight LOOK Mountain Bike pedals. Cheers!
Total weight of the Kom is around 270 G
I hear "HELLLOOOO.." -- I push "Like".
Same here
Before that I make sure to drop volume down a few notches 😏
@@ruiloureiro3167 Maybe I need this as my phone's ringtone. 😆
@@christopheroliver148 or maybe as the alarm sound, Jesus!!! 😵😵
Nice concept. I'm just thinking about cornering. When your BB brop is a bit higher/lower one can start a bit later pedaling out of the corner.
On the website it shows a picture of the bike leaning. I don't ever think you would be peddling at that degree. Only the raw design makes it look long you can pedal out of the corner as early as you would dare
Awesome race. That hill looks monstrous. Way to go Ryan et.team. In the timeworn words of Mr Sheen: Winning!
Looks interesting!
I'd like to see it developed a little more, maybe with some simple preload adjustment and an option to remove that 15mm of lateral float. Could make a wider cleat option or narrower spindle- I wonder if it's partly designed in to help with accessibility and "speed" of use. Maybe a lead-in chamfer on the cleat could help out if needed. I think some titanium componentry would also have weight weenies swarming for the carbon ones.
I wonder how it goes with mud/grit clearance. The 5 degree float would help push the mud out towards the sides but the fixed cleat seems like a pretty tight fit with no clear exit path for debris. Earlier metal prototype versions feature drilled holes at the back of the cleat block presumably to save weight. Maybe something similar could be done to direct grime out the back upon clipping in.
Thanks for the video :)
I might be a minority, but Shimano SPD mtb pedals has been a true wonder in 5 years of hammering them. I have them in all my 5 bikes and my oldest is 30.000 kms without any service to them. The cleats are still fine and the shoes let me walk in any surface (like a human being to boot).
The pedals are heavy but they the closest part to my bike that can be labeled as indestructible.
I'm always looking for a good reason to change them, but these new pedals are not it unfortunately.
I CONCUR! Same here. The dummies at Bontrager started making Espresso road shoes for SPD without a cleat recess with this model year! Fixed gear on slippery cleats is not my idea of safety. It'll be mtb shoes or nothing next time! I trust the engagement more than road pedals. Break out of the bindings, and you lose 1/3 of your braking even with a front brake. Maintenance is also absurdly easy.
Agreed. They are a great compromise for being clipped in and being able to walk in the shoes.. I have various pedal versions on MTBs and road bikes, some pedals with platforms, others without, single and double sided. All using the same cleat type on winter boots, MTB shoes and road shoes. The cleats are inexpensive and are available loads of places.
Same here. I have dual SPD pedals that i use with some good stiff shoes when i wanna get "serious", but otherwise i can go pick up my daughter from school with the same bike without having to grab the specific shoes and/or change pedals!
I absolutely agree.
It's been done before, about 30 years ago. The cleat worked like a cork screw and it was fairly high. I saw them in a shop on Lamb's Conduit St in London called Bike fix and it was the frame builder who used to be out the rear of the building called Sonic frames and the chap was called Helmut Burns and he was using them, I may have got the spelling wrong on his name.
There was also a version of these in the States about 30 years ago, cleat was a solid piece of plastic which snapped over spindle. No float, and if I recall, guy who used them was forever tightening screws to shoes as cleats were made from delrin or some kind of slippery plastic.
Yup, what they said...
@@kennethward9530 Lyotard of France had a similar pedal, you´d click in from above. Rgr
@@kennethward9530 Yup. Those were Aerolites. I had a pair. Super tricky to get into and walking on the cleat was memorably challenging. I just googled them and apparently the co. still exists.
@@kennethward9530 I had these for a bit - but cleat kept migrating off as I rode. I returned them to the store and got my money back. They looked like perfect idea when they came out.
I can see that cornering could be an issue in terms of pedal strikes but it's very cool
Why?
Because they are wider than normal clipless pedals, so the bike’s cornering angle would be lower than with other pedals. More concerning is the fact that the end is basically a rod, so if it does contact the road surface, it is likely to catch and cause a crash. This isn’t really a problem for normal riding, but it pedal strikes not uncommon in racing, especially criteriums.
These look like a variation of the Aerolite Clipless pedal system. I have something similar to these sitting in the garage I got from some Chinese manufacture a long time ago, although their cleat system was more finicky.
I've been using Crank Brothers pedals for years. Very easy clip in, light, and metal cleats that you can walk on.
Only Hambini could title a slide "Practical Theory"! ;)
The subtle humour is not lost on everybody!
This is an elegant clipless retention system. I just wish there was a defined inner shoulder on the pedal shaft so that one could have a more definite Q-factor/pedal stance width. The 10-15 mm variance is a little too big; I reckon most folks just need enough room to unclip from the pedal easily (perhaps 2 mm?). I'm more partial to two-bolt cleats, but these look very well thought through for a three-bolt system.
I wish I had data to counter this idea, even if only for my benefit. The variance in my step while walking has to be >0.5mm at times. I just switched back to yellow Shim cleats after a couple years of Shim blues, and my knees appreciate it so far. I'm getting the feeling our bodies adapt more rather than less to variance in situations.
Unless you have a very very unorthodox pedal stroke the pedals do not shift at all on your feet
“Those of you who are still polluters” 😂😂😂😂👏
Great video Look like a great idea. My Shamano petals wore out In 3 years.
We think they are Priced Right and you will get many many years of use
I had some in the 90s called aerolites. They look nice, were super light and had NO rotation which messed up my knee. They were sold for a while (it was my friend's company) but I have not seen them in years
Looks a good design. What’s the pressure distribution like compared to conventional Shimano/Look pedals where they’ve made a flatter platform over the years for even power transfer
Exactly my concern. In this design the cleat is essentially there to act as a virtual pedal body that's permanently attached to the shoe. Would be nice to know how solid the cleat was underfoot when pedaling for longer stints.
Nothing new here. I had somehing similar in the 80s, can't remember the maker. I also recall the 112g Cirrus Ti in 2012.
Brillant design! I agree the lateral slide between the cleat and the axle needs to be minimized. You can improve the life of the cleat by introducing a replaceable 'foot'....probably made out of rubber.
you would also reduce the skidding around that comes with wearing cleats.
I feel hambini made a slight error and stating the Q factor slid back and forth. When you put your foot against the carbon guide washer that's where your foot will slide into on the pedal it's a guide. If any movement can happen after the spring metal has attached it can only move out very slowly until it hits the stop
Is that gel in your hair, your standing up like a true trooper! 😂
Thanks for the in depth analysis. These goofy things gave me nostalgia for Bebop pedals, another goofball effort from the late 1990s.
I agree these pedals look similar to other shaft pedals but we were able to work out all the bugs. Hambini even helped us out with our instructions as we had made one slight error in our wording
@@mikelohmeyer4140 oh, you are a real company? I thought this was an April Fools joke.
Maybe this is part of the joke still going on:-)
Hello Hambini - how do hydrodynamic bearings measure up in terms of friction? I'm thinking about the likes of the Porsche and Ducati engines that used roller bearings to avoid the frictional losses arising from plain bearings. This is also in the context that a pressure fed oil hydrodynamic bearing is going to have less friction than one that just relies on grease. Come to that, it a grease bearing really hydrodynamic anyway given the viscosity of grease?
You forgot to mention your personal Impressions from riding it on the Bike. Would you recommend it?
I actually think he said he would like the Kom of the two. The training pedal is the Workhorse in my opinion
Simplicity of the clip mechanism is awesome. Hope, they can keep it that way during the further development.
The non-bearing version is a very elegant solution, but there are a lot of situations, when you don't pedal, but just stand on the pedals, so it might be race-worthy but not for a daily runner. Test the resistance compared to Dura Aces or similar traditional builds!
The training pedal has gone through major testing and past ISO requirements. Both Kom and training pedal have a load of 375 lb for more than a minute.
@@mikelohmeyer4140 the concern is related to no lubrication when simply standing on the pedals.
I would agree standing still there would be the least amount of lubricant but it would still be there. Instantly it would read lubricate itself to maximum amount
There will always be lubricant at the bottom of the pedal not as much as on the sides but there will be lubricant. As soon as you make one rotation he will even out the lubricant
@@mikelohmeyer4140 yeah but when standing still the contact point is at the top of the circle because if you see an upvoted comment which also points this out, the foot is applying pressure to the outer shell, and the crank is attached to the inner shaft. Meaning the outer shell will be pressing down on the top of the inner shaft, with oil sitting below the inner shaft and above the bottom of the outer shell where no pressure is. Though you're absolutely right that this is solved by a pedal rotation, it's still fair to point out that this is probably better on bikes that stay in motion in the peloton rather than a commuter.
Thanks for the review. I can know what to say when offered those. tried the speed play and regret that a lot. Currently using Shima o and happy
We appreciate the help from hambini on our pedal system. But we feel he made an error by stating the cleats slides left and right on the pedal. When you put your foot against a carbon washer and slide forward that's where your foot will be located. If there is any movement at all after that it will only be outward very slowly until it contacts this stop at the end of the pedal which is only about a quarter of an inch.
Could they correct the lateral float "issue" with the use of a clip on shim?
Once your foot has engaged using the carbon guide washer your foot can only move slightly outward if anything in momentum of peddling is what makes that happen if it even happens. The spring steel is tight and it's not easy for it to move out to the stop on the end
What is the function of the carbon plate on the lighter pedal? Seems like you could just not have it? Do you not attach the cleat with a 3rd bolt at the top?
Probably to stop your shoe sliding into the crank arm.
@@benandbarny1 Shouldn't the shoulder on the "pedal" do that? At 1:50 or 2:45 you can see that the pedal body flares outwards between the plate and the area you actually clip onto. No other pedal has this kind of design feature.
The carbon plate is in the design it helps you guide yourself into the pedal at the same location each time
Back in the 80s there was some pedal that was just a spindle. I think the main application was for track cycling. I think you somehow slid out the end of the spindle to disengage. I don't recall I could not get my head around them
Aerolites made in California, you rolled the forefoot out to disengage.
@@slowerandolder Wow I just checked out their web page. Looks like they're still in business. Good on them
Simple, functional, serviceable....it will never fly. Do they make a sealed carbon version that is expensive and disposable?
Interesting system. Would the bar create a hot spot under your foot though?
You bet
It shouldn't. That mostly depends on the sole of the particular shoe you are wearing. The thicker the better.
Interesting concept, M2 racer did something similar (well single axle, mechanism in cleat) 20 odd years ago. Anyone remember those?
First of april was saturday. Well done .
Frenchi ! I like these pedals and the job you've done on them. Perhaps Pitbull will come out with a thin TITanium cleat protector for walking on the cleats. So I'm a big fan of hydrodynamic lubrication and have often wondered why bicycle wheel bearings don't just use a tapered adjustable or shim adjustable plain bearing system bathed in oil ? It works on the front wheels of trucks ( I think you call them lorries in France) as well as in Rohloff, Shimano & Sturmey hubs. If it was just for the wheel bearings and not a gearbox wouldn't it work swimmingly ?
I had the idea back in the late 80’s for a pedal like this. Except the cleat was a cylinder that slid over the pedal shaft and was held in with an adjustable tension detent ball on the outside end of the shaft.
So did quite a few pedal manufactures that were trying to stay in business after 1985. The main issue with the few that went on the market was they were never as comfortable as Look pedals were. They required basically using an entire pedal sized cleat for stiffness, and even then the technology for cycling shoe soles at the time really didn't provide comfortable support on them.
The bottom of the cleat was thinner to allow for cleat entry. This means when you walked on them the cleat wore out and you had to replace them.
@@firesurfer if you're talking about aerolite pedals, I remember the bottom was molded as a curved tapered to the spindle, which made walking really hard.
You know it's April fools somewhere. Imagine the looks you'd get rolling up on a Saturday group ride😂
I think that recent bike shoes are designed to take areal loads. Despite of the thin plastik adapter this system works with line load characteristic. The shoe sole will bend, deform and break earlier than using a conventional click pedal. (still using time tbt shoes+pedals from 90s 😉)
Solid argument. Wouldn't the mount itself spread some of that load though rather than just being the axel width itself? Depending on how it is designed.
Thanks for the video. The concept isn’t new - aka minimalist pedal design - but the execution here is. There was a pedal made here in the US back in the 80s that was bare bones and consisted of just a spindle; the “bearing” was the cleat which I think was made of Delrin, and that was it. Walking about was wonky because the cleats really protruded out as they were molded to fit the spindle. It was a very lightweight design that had its fans among American weight weenies, because the stainless steel version I think weighed well under 200 grams for the works- both pedals, cleats, etc. A titanium version was even lighter, maybe 100 grams or less IIRC. I don’t know if the manufacturer is still around or if that design is still protected by patent, which to me would explain why these new pedals are a bit over-engineered, if you ask me. These could be a good product but I think will be a niche item that will probably be accepted by weight weenies, triathletes, and people like that.
The training pedal is the Workhorse of the two. What the Pitbull pedal does is let you push and pull in your pedal stroke
Aerolite pedals. I remember those. There were all sorts of long forgotten clipless systems when they first caught on in the 80s.
@@gregmuon Yeah, Aerolite. I tried to remember the name but just couldn’t. Thanks.
Yep, Aerolites, I raced in the for a few years. I really liked them.
@@gregmuon Yep, there were a few. Speedplay appeared about the same time back then and survives to this day thought it’s owned by Wahoo.
Interesting. They do look quite bad to walk on (would appreciate more comment from Hambini on that). I do like the minimalist design though. Looks like a very easy clip in. I think these might do ok, as long as they are decent quality and longevity.
Use MTB cleats on road bikes. You can walk on those.
OMG lifetime warranty and cleats are only $11
Big flat bar? Walking looks easy enough. Just practice with some of those Geta sandles 😉
If you want to walk around you can always get a set of our flatties on the website:-)
This is some crazy pedal system.
Hmm looking at a Cycling Weekly review they are bemoaning the lack of fore/aft adjustment on the cleat. That's a deal breaker for me as I like to slam my (Speedplay) cleats as far back as possible. Also the foot engages in a different position on the axle each time hence the variable Q-factor.
I believe our cleat system already pushes the axle closer to the heel and there is adjustment in the road shoe. If you use the guide washer to locate your foot on the pedal the spring steel will pretty much hold your foot exactly where you put it. If you have some type of an odd pedal stroke that will overpower the springsteel your foot can slide only outward just a little a small amount
I have a pair of round pedals. Tririg Mercury. Actually surprised these don’t infringe on patents as it’s also a USA company. Those are Titanium. Really light. 35g rings a bell. Assume that’s one side, no cleats. Adjustable Q factor. No side to side movement. No float at all. No tension adjustment though. Found you can pull a foot out when sprinting. I think they’re good for my TT bike but not Road bikes where you want to feel more secure.
Edited to clarify. By adjustable Q factor I mean in the workshop, not during a ride.
Incidentally those came with two different diameter outer part for the hydrodynamic bearing because shoes can vary a bit in how flat of curved they are and this can interact with the size of the cleat. Assume that was a bug they discovered after selling some.
These pedals are fully patented and gone through ISO testing. With the adjustment if you just keep going you will not get out so you must determine your own retention
I am curious to know how these compare to pedals that have a wider cleat like SPD-SL in terms of force distribution.
The cleats and the pedals interface look like they would concentrate the force on a fairly narrow contact point along the axle. Unless that cleat is extremely stiff, it could bend on the power stroke and absorb energy. Even if the cleat was stiff enough your foot would be seesawing on a fulcrum. This will not be desirable if you are looking for a stable platform or one that can transfer power efficiently.
Get very stiff shoes these days. They should support the cleat. All pedals have a spindle that bends with the stroke that’s exactly what they use to measure power in power pedals.
The cleats are made out of glass filled nylon and they run across the entire pedal which you're stiff road bike shoe sits on top of that the load is evenly dispersed
The princess blanket is back....all is well in the world
Can tell you for a fact that tiny m2.5? Tension adjustment grub screw hex is going to get clogged with mud being where it is. Not a problem in California but it won't work in Europe! Also why such a huge bearing on the bearing version? Made for an elephant? Interesting no bearing version, most pedals with IGUS bushings have at least 0.1mm radial slop when new, so maybe this is on to something. Get rid of it completely.
The standard Pitbull pedal went through complete ISO testing. It is the Workhorse of the two. ISO test is they hang 200 lb off of the pedal and spin it at 100 RPM for like 18 hours. OMG!
Do they come with shims for height adjustment or can they use any old shim ??
Would these pedals survive a high powered sprint without accidentally unclipping?
Can you out-sprint Hambini? I doubt it.
The tension is totally adjustable but if you go too far you will not get out
I think any pedal is capable of coming loose in a Sprint. But our system is totally adjustable and you can make it as stiff as you would like
@@mikelohmeyer4140 My aerolites never came undone in a sprint, I doubt these will either. Is the the Mike Lohmeyer that used to race a vfr400?
No but I do have a z900rs
April 1st was 2 days ago, this can’t be a serious product 🤣🤣
A great and easy concept, but the float side to side wouldn’t be ideal. Think this would be awesome for a bike fit so you could adjust a factor, but then to somehow have a fixed point to stop any lateral movement.
Once you have engaged the only movement is outward If It Moves at all. The Kom pedal is even a little shorter so it has less movement
I'd imagine the float is probably a USP. How many people are locked into a specific offset that perhaps doesn't best suit them, where these one might find a natural position? almost like the angle float, you have a lateral float?
You use the guide washer to engage your cleat on to the pedal you will pretty much stay in that position for the entire ride. I guess if you had an unorthodox pedal stroke there is room for it to move but there's free movement from side-to-side
TriRig already had a really nice set of the exact same thing called the Mercury recently. This isn't new, and due to the many attempts over the last few decades, have proven that its nice, gets reinvented, but doesn't last. The TriRig version was much lighter and didn't need bearings.
Due to the length, the pedal looks prone to hitting the ground if leaning into a corner while pedalling and that amount of float is a major deal breaker
I guess that can easily be compensated with a bit of riding technique, like lifting the inner pedal on corners as you should. However, Tom Pidcock wouldn't approve of them for losing a few degrees of lean angle.
Elegant & simple!
Thought I might add a comment on the topic as well, pedals look good, but i do believe there is another pedal with a straight shaft?? Anyone can chime in. The only thing I don't like is it will be difficult to walk in with that bar being half way down the shoe.
Aerolite pioneered the spindle as pedal in the 1990's, also HDPE as bushings. Very lite, popular in triathlon, but cleats were impossible to walk on and very fussy to install. While I'm grousing, hydration packs first marketed to time trialists as aero aid in the 80's, SkidLid helmets had MIPS technology in 1974, but Bell, Snell, and ANSI killed that.
How are you going to run after me with those on cleats if I steal your bike? 😂
What do you think about the new Trek Ballista helmet?
Do you know when they implemented your feedback? The set I ordered arrived a week ago and I noticed the box was already opened and taped back up.
Will you look into the TT22 from mid-foot cycling?
Why didn't you go for the mid- foot pedals first? I would sell my shimanos and get a set, but they can't handle my weight 😢
@@beltonhogueI wouldn't buy the mid-foot pedals mostly because of the price. I don' t have the need for something that specialized. I am more curious about the engineering of them. Looking at the pictures they have online, the axle is all bearings; The anthesis of the KOM pedal.
"Your shaft -- it's so big! I've never seen anything like that."
Definitely an interesting looking solution for a pdeal/cleat system. As it stands currently that "Q Factor" movement could be an annoying thing espeically for those who are more sensitive to change in stance/pedal width but it COULD be something they could actually use as a good selling point, maybe something @Hambini could feed back to them that if they were to provide some kind of fittable spacers in different sizes that you could place on the inside, outside, or combo of both that it could make their pedal system one where the same basic system can easily be configured for a range of Q-Factor/Stance widths with only the addition/removal/positioning of a spacer of some sort (maybe a 2-part U washer that clips onto the outer axle) - let's say the total amount of play/movement is currently 15mm, is they provided 1 10mm and 1 5mm attachable spacer it would allow people to have them arranged with 0, 5, 10, or 15 mm of inside fill, so 0/5/10/15mm increases in Q-Factor by putting the spacers either both inside, one either side in either combination of 5/10 or 10/5, or both outside.
This could also mean that if you change bike or groupset and your new crankset has a different Q-Factor you could compensate for the difference via your pedal axle spacers
They do NOT move when you are riding !!
@@MikeLohmeyer That's kind of the issue though. If you clip in you're locked in the wrong position. So either you keep on trying until you nail the spot or you roll with it.
@@bimbogiallo That is what the guide washer does it put your foot in the same spot each time !!
@@MikeLohmeyer But if you need to make the washer fit exactly the widht of the pedal, wouldn't that defy the whole idea of fast clip? and if it doesn't, you could easily be a few mms or even a cm off in each direction randomly.
@@bimbogiallo So you are telling me that a human being can tell if the Q factor is off by MM . I say know way as there are so many moving parts !! Try to put your hand down 10 times in the same place down to a 2 or 3 MM spot. And that in your hand .
I'd certainly like to try them. I'm just wondering if on a long ride that axle starts to cause a pressure point on the bottom of your foot.
I have done a century ride in my Kom pedals the pedal goes across your entire shoe and your cleat goes across the entire pedal and all of that is resting on your hard road bike shoe.:-)
I raced for a few years in aerolites, never had an issue.
Can we get detailed insight into how crosswind affects power loss in the future? You explain it always very clear and it's simple to grasp.
inspired by Texan wire wheels i guess. Are you sure there is no wider version?
Great idea, I like 'em .
Seems like they could make different length shafts with spacers to lock in and or adjust Q factor. I am very sensitive to Q factor and require the least amount possible.
I guess you could easily put a stop on the outside of it and bring the Q factor way way down. We have the larger area for quick entry
@@mikelohmeyer4140 the stop could be angled so as to retain the quick entry. Also if shorter axles were used the end could be angled to help guide the cleat in. These parts could be available at an additional cost for those who want it.
One customer that felt somewhat the same way put a rubber o-ring on the end.
There might be just a little misunderstanding as far as the Q factor. On the Kom we use the carbon disc to help guide you in the same place every time. If your body is telling you that you need a wider Q factor your shoe will simply slip outward. It's only about a quarter of an inch and then it hits the stop at the end of the pedal.
@@mikelohmeyer4140 sorry, I need a narrow Q factor. As narrow as possible. I am 5’3” tall male. My hips are narrow. Bikes are not built for small people. Q factors are to wide. Bottom brackets to high, crank arms to long. Wheels to big. Small frame sizes have poor handling due to steep seat post and shallow head tube angles. The solution is 650c wheels. But tire selection is very poor. I ride with time I click carbon pedals. I machined the shafts to move the peddles in ward. I also machined my custom 600 mm carbon crank pedal mounts. In total I reduced Q factor by 6mm. Should I purchase your pedals I would remove the carbon shield. Machine the mount thinner. Matching a new outer shaft that is narrow with a angled outer side. Instal the carbon shield on this and shorten the inner shaft. I will try I light synthetic grease inside. The design looks great. A very stiff carbon sole shoe will be necessary to prevent hot spots.
So are they better than shimano and look pedals?
Hej! Are this "pedals" better or worse than other systems? I don't know if you can measure this, is there any lost in "power" between the foot and pedal? If there is to little oil in that pedal must be a problem, have they a recommendation of how much and what kind of oil to use?
These pedals are very simple in design and maintenance. There's a video on the website showing re lubricating the Kom. Takes about 1 minute per pedal and last for long long time.
I love the simplicity of the system and minimal design. The large exposed cleat wouldn't work very well for mtb or cx and does anyone really need fast clipping on a road shoe? I have 3 pairs of shoes to use across 5 bikes, i'm not trying to have multiple systems, m540 on everything and then use whatever shoe I feel like.
I think one of the big benefits is for New Riders to be able to learn and clip-in real easy quickly and safely and get their eyes back up on the road. In group rides there's nothing worse than missing your pedal and holding up a group at a red light trying to clip in.
I can not imagine a Peloton crash using those pedals...there will be pain, blood and love like in your hair dresser party...
We have a large 5/8 in rounded into prevent or I should say help prevent injury
Moral of the video: buy Look or Time.
Actually there's a money-back guarantee if they don't do exactly what we're stating that they will do
Hertzian contact stresses say this pedal is the * perfect * shinbreaker for the modern enthusiast.
I have completely forgotten about those pedals.
I use Speedplay and like the few degrees of rotation float, but my forefoot is staying in the same place. I could not tolerate the side to side sliding of the whole foot that would happen with these pedals.
They really don't move side to side. The area that were talking about is for quick and safe engagement. If they move at all they will only move one way which is out up against the stop at the end of the pedal
These remind me of Aerolite pedals, but this pedal system would be far easier to clip into.
Look up Aerolite pedals. Circa 1987. The original spindle with a turcite sleeve that the cleat clicked onto design. 88grams/pr with the ti spindle.
Yep. Nice blast from the past. I said the same but my comment somehow disappeared. I had Aerolites on my racing bike back in the 1980s.
The cleats were way too hard to walk with and you could not push and pull with their system
@@mikelohmeyer4140 Agreed the cleats were hard to walk on. And installation required precise drilling into your shoes (measure twice, drill once!). I disagree that you couldn't push and pull when pedaling. At the time I also worked in a bike shop so I got to try lots of different pedals. I found Aerolites to be the best in terms of security & retention. Push, pull, stand on them, whatever, they were completely secure, would not slip or pop out.
Hopefully we have been able to make an improvement on the pedal system. We were able to get a patent on it so there is some differences for sure. I think we have them Priced Right so everyone can enjoy them but that's just an opinion
What's the stack? Looks very low, which is obviously good. Ti version could be quite a lot lighter.
We could have made the Kom even lighter but pricing would have to be more. They're only $79 including shipping in the states
Triple x shoes...
I laughed but Trek really has such model.
Is there a coincidence that you like it so much?
Interesting video ❤
interesting patent . are thεse widespead ??? never seen them before. i don't think they are suitable for pros...
Do you get a bit more vibration being transmitted to the shoe ??
There is no chance of any vibration as the gaps Illustrated from hambini were blowing up the actual Kom Gap inside the pedal is like the thickness of a piece of newspaper. The training pedal has 4 bearings inside of it and went through complete ISO testing
@@mikelohmeyer4140 i see
Never has a VPN ad made me want to get the product until now lmfao
This idea looks almost too good to be true. What happens if you get mud in your cleat? There is nowhere for it to go (whereas with a traditional MTB cleat it kind of gets displaced by the various edges).
Well, it's clearly a road pedal.
I see what your saying. Dirt seems like it could build up and be a problem. Maybe a hole in the “back” of the cleat?
They remind me of the Aerolite pedals which are sub 70 grams iirc. The axles look looong and the cleats look like they'd be hard to walk in. I havent seen a pair in our shop yet. The word on the street is that they are for 'beginners' ...Serious riders don't seem to be interested. Maybe if they priced them much higher, people would take them more seriously.
We have a money back guarantee that says that the pedals will do exactly what we are saying or you can get a refund. We have them priced very reasonable so everyone can enjoy them. I walked over to Miles during testing on a sidewalk.
The side to side movement would long term cause problems with knees and hips. Especially the more tired a rider gets and the sloppier their form becomes.
I think uneven when you unclip, it is really difficult to walk on those shoes...
So basically, they've moved the engagement mechanism off of the pedal and onto the cleat. Increasing the cost of the fast wearing component? I'd rather the mechanics was retained in the pedal, which i would expect to last years and years before a replacement or refurb, and keep the cleats, which I would replace every 6 months or so due to wear, as cheap as possible.
As a self reporting carbon polluter, My Lotus, i was surprised to see the EU back down on the zero carbon emissions on cars "no emissions" target. 🤔
It's not really surprising a former colleague is working on the infrastructure for electric vehicles it not even close to being ready talking over 10 years
@@markhall6026 it is not just EVs it is the whole power infrastructure. I do think they over estimated the ability of these industries to change.
@@waynosfotos Those eco-idiots never estimated it in the first place.
Personally, I like the crank brothers eggbeater pedals, with mountain bike shoes that you can actually walk in.
I use them on a road bike. I don't care that they're not technically supposed to be road bike pedals.
Yes but I don't think they would ever be able to pass the ISO testing safety requirements. Just a thought.
Stack height and float is a big issue for me. Does anybody remember Cycle Binding? They were my favorite pedal for years. I could walk on them. Forget about walking on these cleats. I finally went to spds. I still think these are the all round best system.
Was that the one with a recess on the shoe sole? The pedal platform had an angle adjustable, rectangular box sticking up that engaged the shoe sole, so could only use their own shoe. Came out about the same time as the first Looks, marketed to touring riders.
We came up with this idea for safety reasons if you're riding in a group ride and you don't get clipped in the first time at a traffic light the whole group can get messed up. The sooner you get clipped in the sooner your eyes are up looking at oncoming cars. They're definitely not walking shoes but I walked two miles in them during testing
Hambini I'm waiting for your response video for absolute black any word on when this will uploaded ?
It seems like the cleats should mount to the shoes in the opposite way than they are now, with the downstroke and pulling back of the shoe force going onto the beefy plastic part of the cleat.
Super interesting idea I don't think you could engage is faster though
Cleat entry would be far more difficult. I doubt most people would like pulling back to go in the cleat. Pushing forward is a more natural motion.
My flash, in a crash they can poke you pretty bad ... fwiw 🍺
Is that large carbon disc necessary? Can it be replaced with a smaller diameter disc to make it less of an eye sore? 😝
It's probably needed to prevent the shoe from hitting the crank.
The carbon disc is what we use to align our foot and guide us in to the pedal. It helps keep it consistent
haha so many times i'm saying to the screen: "stick it in a vise!" Would make it much clearer to show play, movement, measurements... and then you did!