After watching this video I converted two 15 gallon Megapots into the same configuration. I don't have a pid controller yet. I use a Campchef Expedition 3 burner stove both pots sit nicely on. I'm getting low 70s conversion. I'm very happy with it.
Cheers to great beer that’s why we brew our own and grow hops , just subscribed after your video found us . We make wine and meads and others on our channel , stay thirsty and brew on .
Wonderful video. To clarify, when you turn on the "Mash/Kettle" heating element and separately the "HLT" heating element, both elements are positioned in one kettle, correct?
I know this video has some age on it, but I intend to start brewing via 2-vessel(bought an EBC-350 from you like a year ago. Been doing BIAB for close to 9 years, and I've always double crushed the grain with good result. With putting all the water in with 2-Vessel as you would generally with single/BIAB, would you crush as a normal brew or a fine crush as you would with BIAB? Thanks so much. Still rewatch this video multiple time as I'm learning more bits & pieces, and it a good refresh as I'm preparing to jump into multiple vessel.
Ooh I like this set up. Two pans and two pumps could work for me to evolve my one gallon batch set up. I like the no sparge method, but I guess that means you start with your total water volume split between pots when you start the whole process. Sparging is my nemesis. I get my wort nice and clear then the sparge adds all the cloudiness back into the wort, so any system that eliminates the sparge is groovy by me.
You are correct! You start with your total water volume. It is great. We love it. Sorry I didn't reply earlier. UA-cam is bad about not sending me notifications when a comment is posted.
Hey, Dave. I finally got to a point where I have 2 pots and 2 pumps in my scaled down version of your excellent system. Video is here: ua-cam.com/video/uqEf4ZgN06s/v-deo.html...I would like to ask, what efficiency do you get, and secondly, do you use whirlfloc or Irish moss to clear your wort? I'd be interested to hear your thoughts, as I am just startling to try using it. But, I'm very happy with my first brew day on the system and am really looking forwards to the next brew day. 🖖🏻
I'm probably strange for saying this but it would be interesting to see the clean up process for this system. I have a single 20g vessel system and find it a challenge at times to manage a kettle that size.
Not a strange thing to say at all. I have to admit, it ain't easy! We basically scoop the grain into a bucket to dump till it is empty enough to lift. We have a commercial 3-comparment sink that we use to finish the cleaning.
This looks like a really rad system, but about the only thing I would change is adding a ball valve before the whirlpool bulkhead. With how it was disconnected after cooling, it looks like it was siphoning out. I guess you could crack open the top camlock first to break up the siphoning action, but still....
Great system, just a couple questions. Does the mash tun have a heating element as well? And during the mash (after you set the grain bed) you configured the hoses back into the infinity loop. Is this because there is no heating element in the mash tun? And also was there still water in the HLT during the infinity loop during the mash to act as a sparge or was it just the wort recirculating? Thanks
One more question came to my mind (one of the many that will come in the future😂). How do you sanitize the pump, hoses and chiller at the end of the boil prior to whirlpooling, cooling and transfering to fermenter?
The pump is the Blichmann Riptide and the pump head comes apart for easy sanitizing. We just disassemble and throw the hoses into a bucket of sanitizer. The plate chiller is sanitized by running boiling wort through it and letting it sit for 10 minutes or so. The heat from the wort kills anything that may be present.
Hi Eugene, we build the Wort Hog controllers, and take care of them for life. Our 2-V systems include a controller that supports two pumps, have internal overload protection, and a double-pole relay to control the power output. The BrewCommnder only supports one pump (though the RipTide pumps have switch on them, and can be controlled that way), have no overload protection, and leave one of the hot legs hot, even with the switch off.
If you'd put the kettle higher than the mash tun would you eliminate a pump which is pumping from the kettle to the mash tun? Would the flow from the gravity be enough then?
Eugene Strokin You can arrange smaller vessels this way, and have just one pump. The Blichmann BrewEasy is the most well known configuration like this. Even with smaller vessels though, people seem to prefer the side by side arrangement by far.
The watt density of the BoilCoil is the lowest on the planet. We do recommend keeping pellets in a bag, tethered, but you wouldn’t have a problem with hop material burning if you didn’t. The only residue on the heating elements at the end of the boil is the same light protein you have on the kettle itself.
This is a Breweasy 1BBL minus table, right? With 2BBL extension would you move the autosparge up to the extension part? But I don't see a hole there on the pictures. What would be your set up then?
Does this come in a 10-15gal kettle version? I’d like to be able to make mid to high gravity 5-gallon batches with almost this exact combination of components except also with tri-clamp fittings.
It comes in a handy take home size: www.highgravitybrew.com/store/pc/Wort-Hog-2-Vessel-10-gallon-445p10094.htm You can upgrade the vessels and pumps to tri-clamp. Cheers!
Looks like you have temp probes fixed into the kettles. Couldn't you switch the sensor from the kettle outlet to the fixed kettle probe during the boil to read an accurate temp for your lower (left PID) element? Also is there any reason why you don't use two of the adjustable PIDs?
The production systems have inline probes in a Tee with a male and female QD to allow them to be installed anywhere in the loop. If you have a probe in the kettle you could plug into it. The HLT side uses a contactor to switch the heat on/off. This produces no waste heat, requires no heat sink, and allows for a smaller enclosure.
Can you do smaller batches than 1 bbl with the system? And for cleaning do you just circulate cleaning solution through the system after emptying the mash tun?
Hi Tapio, you can brew batches as small as 20 gallons, but would need to carefully manage the liquid levels. Cleaning is as easy as brushing with a plastic brush, and rinsing with hot water most of the time. The pump heads and valves come apart and go in a bucket of cleaner after a brewing session.
florin serbabh The mash is the grains being steeped in the water. Wort is the liquid you collect from the mash after the steeping has converted the starches in the mash to sugars. Wort is the unfermented beer.
When using the linear control valves to keep the flow rate equal - are you eyeballing it? i.e. keep the levers at approximately the same position, or eyeball the flow pouring into the mash tun and boil kettle and try to keep them the same? Would flowmeters be useful, or does the blichman auto sparge take the guess work out of it?
The AutoSparge is the key to maintaining the liquid levels in the vessels. Once you set the liquid level in the mash tun you just need to make sure that the mash runoff doesn't outrun the kettle.
HI, it seems to be a great setup, congratz! i have a question, why dont you recirculate the whole mash volume in just one single vessel? i wanna set up a two vessel system, but i think im gonna recirculate in just one vessel while mashing (like a BIAB system) then i will transfer the wort into the second vesssel to boil it.
Hi Rene, We build single vessel systems too. These have a bag in a basket, and are definitely an option for 5 - 10 gallon batches. The 2-V brewing method is the same as the single-vessel where all of the water goes in at the start minus what the grain will absorb, and what you plan to boil off and leave behind, but you have a mash tun with a false bottom that you let run dry instead of lifting the bag out of the kettle, a bit more efficient and a more pleasant brew day. The room for extra water also improves efficiency with larger grain bills.
The wort recirculates throughout the mash tun and the HLT in a continuous loop. When the temp of the wort drops the Blichmann BoilCoil in the HLT kicks on to heat the wort. The temp rarely varies more than one degree.
Ah ok, that makes sense now. So just to clarify, if your mash water amount was, for example to keep it simple, 40 gallons you would put 20 gallons in each tank, drop the grain into the mash tun and begin the recirc between both kettles? At the end then you drain the mash tun into the HLT and begin to boil?
Stephen Grommer it depends on the batch size. For our 1Bbl in the summer we whirlpool with a counterflow chiller down to 100 in around 30 minutes and then we transfer to the fermenter and chill it to pitching temp with our glycol chiller which is another 30 minutes. In the winter it’s much faster.
i have a question, because I'm looking at the 10 gallon version. Do you disconnect the mash tun and the just recirculate the boil kettle after the volume has been transferred over? It may seem like a stupid question, but I was just wondering. Thanks!
Buffalo Beer Reviews Once you have transferred to the Kettle you bring the Wort to a boil. At the end of the boil you might recirculate and whirlpool while chilling.
Great demonstration Dave. Are you taking any kind of hit on efficiency with this setup? With the controller I just purchased from you, I think this might be the way to go.
Right now we've only done a few batches and are still dialing in the process. So far it's been between 76-80% and that's really where we want it to be. Any better and you risk pulling components out of the grain that are that great for a beer's shelf life.
Hi Alex, the 2-V system is like a one-vessel system in that all of the water goes in at the start. We still usually do a tiny bit of manual sparging, just pouring over the grain bed.
Hey Dave, I use this exact system, only in 15G size, with a controller I bought from you, just before the Warthog upgrade. I have called you before and I am thinking of upgrading. I also have an improvement idea for you on this system in the video. I may call you tomorrow if I get the time and you happen to be available. This is James from Texarkana, by the way.
After watching this video I converted two 15 gallon Megapots into the same configuration. I don't have a pid controller yet. I use a Campchef Expedition 3 burner stove both pots sit nicely on. I'm getting low 70s conversion. I'm very happy with it.
Cheers to great beer that’s why we brew our own and grow hops , just subscribed after your video found us . We make wine and meads and others on our channel , stay thirsty and brew on .
hoping my kids see this and order me one for fathers day
This is going be the one I pick for my setup , hopefully in the new year or two
Nice setup. Not seen this done before.
Wonderful video. To clarify, when you turn on the "Mash/Kettle" heating element and separately the "HLT" heating element, both elements are positioned in one kettle, correct?
Looking for that detailed video of the EBC 350.
We have one finally! ua-cam.com/video/Jww8YUilA8E/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/Jww8YUilA8E/v-deo.html
Thank you
I know this video has some age on it, but I intend to start brewing via 2-vessel(bought an EBC-350 from you like a year ago. Been doing BIAB for close to 9 years, and I've always double crushed the grain with good result. With putting all the water in with 2-Vessel as you would generally with single/BIAB, would you crush as a normal brew or a fine crush as you would with BIAB?
Thanks so much. Still rewatch this video multiple time as I'm learning more bits & pieces, and it a good refresh as I'm preparing to jump into multiple vessel.
Ooh I like this set up. Two pans and two pumps could work for me to evolve my one gallon batch set up. I like the no sparge method, but I guess that means you start with your total water volume split between pots when you start the whole process. Sparging is my nemesis. I get my wort nice and clear then the sparge adds all the cloudiness back into the wort, so any system that eliminates the sparge is groovy by me.
You are correct! You start with your total water volume. It is great. We love it. Sorry I didn't reply earlier. UA-cam is bad about not sending me notifications when a comment is posted.
Hey, Dave. I finally got to a point where I have 2 pots and 2 pumps in my scaled down version of your excellent system. Video is here: ua-cam.com/video/uqEf4ZgN06s/v-deo.html...I would like to ask, what efficiency do you get, and secondly, do you use whirlfloc or Irish moss to clear your wort? I'd be interested to hear your thoughts, as I am just startling to try using it. But, I'm very happy with my first brew day on the system and am really looking forwards to the next brew day. 🖖🏻
I'm probably strange for saying this but it would be interesting to see the clean up process for this system. I have a single 20g vessel system and find it a challenge at times to manage a kettle that size.
Not a strange thing to say at all. I have to admit, it ain't easy!
We basically scoop the grain into a bucket to dump till it is empty enough to lift. We have a commercial 3-comparment sink that we use to finish the cleaning.
This looks like a really rad system, but about the only thing I would change is adding a ball valve before the whirlpool bulkhead. With how it was disconnected after cooling, it looks like it was siphoning out. I guess you could crack open the top camlock first to break up the siphoning action, but still....
Great system, just a couple questions. Does the mash tun have a heating element as well? And during the mash (after you set the grain bed) you configured the hoses back into the infinity loop. Is this because there is no heating element in the mash tun? And also was there still water in the HLT during the infinity loop during the mash to act as a sparge or was it just the wort recirculating? Thanks
Are you using a specific equipment profile for this setup? Looking at this and wanted to try plugging in a few recipes to get an idea. Cheers!
Hey Michael, we use the "55 Gallon BoilerMaker™ (1 Bbl/120 L)" profile that's in BeerSmith.
Cheers!
@@Highgravitybrew2112 Many thanks!
One more question came to my mind (one of the many that will come in the future😂). How do you sanitize the pump, hoses and chiller at the end of the boil prior to whirlpooling, cooling and transfering to fermenter?
The pump is the Blichmann Riptide and the pump head comes apart for easy sanitizing. We just disassemble and throw the hoses into a bucket of sanitizer. The plate chiller is sanitized by running boiling wort through it and letting it sit for 10 minutes or so. The heat from the wort kills anything that may be present.
I see on your website you have an option with Blichmann BrewCommander instead of Wort Hog. Why do you prefer Wort Hog?
Hi Eugene, we build the Wort Hog controllers, and take care of them for life. Our 2-V systems include a controller that supports two pumps, have internal overload protection, and a double-pole relay to control the power output.
The BrewCommnder only supports one pump (though the RipTide pumps have switch on them, and can be controlled that way), have no overload protection, and leave one of the hot legs hot, even with the switch off.
That controller seems pretty neet. Is it possible to get in an Europeean version? 220 Volts? Do you ship to Sweden?
What table are you using and where did you get it?
How much wort did it lose to the chiller?
If you'd put the kettle higher than the mash tun would you eliminate a pump which is pumping from the kettle to the mash tun? Would the flow from the gravity be enough then?
Eugene Strokin You can arrange smaller vessels this way, and have just one pump. The Blichmann BrewEasy is the most well known configuration like this. Even with smaller vessels though, people seem to prefer the side by side arrangement by far.
How do you keep the hop material from getting burnt on the coil? Do you use a hop spider?
The watt density of the BoilCoil is the lowest on the planet. We do recommend keeping pellets in a bag, tethered, but you wouldn’t have a problem with hop material burning if you didn’t. The only residue on the heating elements at the end of the boil is the same light protein you have on the kettle itself.
This is a Breweasy 1BBL minus table, right? With 2BBL extension would you move the autosparge up to the extension part? But I don't see a hole there on the pictures. What would be your set up then?
Does this come in a 10-15gal kettle version? I’d like to be able to make mid to high gravity 5-gallon batches with almost this exact combination of components except also with tri-clamp fittings.
It comes in a handy take home size: www.highgravitybrew.com/store/pc/Wort-Hog-2-Vessel-10-gallon-445p10094.htm
You can upgrade the vessels and pumps to tri-clamp. Cheers!
Thanks for sharing! Looking forward to trying this out, are those vessels 20 gallon each or more?
Dustin, I don’t know how I missed this post. So sorry!
These vessels are 55gal. We brew 1Bbl batches. This setup is available in smaller versions.
Did you shorten the legs on that regency table or was it purchased like that? I can't seem to find that model. Do you know the table model? Thanks!
Peter Hand Yes, if you cut the legs in half, you only need to cut two of them.
Looks like you have temp probes fixed into the kettles. Couldn't you switch the sensor from the kettle outlet to the fixed kettle probe during the boil to read an accurate temp for your lower (left PID) element? Also is there any reason why you don't use two of the adjustable PIDs?
The production systems have inline probes in a Tee with a male and female QD to allow them to be installed anywhere in the loop. If you have a probe in the kettle you could plug into it.
The HLT side uses a contactor to switch the heat on/off. This produces no waste heat, requires no heat sink, and allows for a smaller enclosure.
What does the mash efficiency numbers look like? I’ve built a very similar system and got 58% on my first run.
When did you add your hops?
They were added during the boil.
Can you do smaller batches than 1 bbl with the system? And for cleaning do you just circulate cleaning solution through the system after emptying the mash tun?
Hi Tapio, you can brew batches as small as 20 gallons, but would need to carefully manage the liquid levels.
Cleaning is as easy as brushing with a plastic brush, and rinsing with hot water most of the time. The pump heads and valves come apart and go in a bucket of cleaner after a brewing session.
Whats the difference between wort and mash guys?
florin serbabh
The mash is the grains being steeped in the water.
Wort is the liquid you collect from the mash after the steeping has converted the starches in the mash to sugars. Wort is the unfermented beer.
Thank you so much for your answer, much appreciated
@@florinserbabh4560 Glad to help!
Do you ever have problems with stuck mashes? How to you keep your flow rates equal?
So far no issues at all with stuck mashes.
As for the flow rate it is controlled by the linear control valves on the pumps.
When using the linear control valves to keep the flow rate equal - are you eyeballing it? i.e. keep the levers at approximately the same position, or eyeball the flow pouring into the mash tun and boil kettle and try to keep them the same? Would flowmeters be useful, or does the blichman auto sparge take the guess work out of it?
The AutoSparge is the key to maintaining the liquid levels in the vessels. Once you set the liquid level in the mash tun you just need to make sure that the mash runoff doesn't outrun the kettle.
HI, it seems to be a great setup, congratz! i have a question, why dont you recirculate the whole mash volume in just one single vessel? i wanna set up a two vessel system, but i think im gonna recirculate in just one vessel while mashing (like a BIAB system) then i will transfer the wort into the second vesssel to boil it.
Hi Rene, We build single vessel systems too. These have a bag in a basket, and are definitely an option for 5 - 10 gallon batches. The 2-V brewing method is the same as the single-vessel where all of the water goes in at the start minus what the grain will absorb, and what you plan to boil off and leave behind, but you have a mash tun with a false bottom that you let run dry instead of lifting the bag out of the kettle, a bit more efficient and a more pleasant brew day. The room for extra water also improves efficiency with larger grain bills.
How do you stop heat loss during a one hour mash seeing as there is no insulation or heating in the mash tun?
The wort recirculates throughout the mash tun and the HLT in a continuous loop. When the temp of the wort drops the Blichmann BoilCoil in the HLT kicks on to heat the wort. The temp rarely varies more than one degree.
Ah ok, that makes sense now. So just to clarify, if your mash water amount was, for example to keep it simple, 40 gallons you would put 20 gallons in each tank, drop the grain into the mash tun and begin the recirc between both kettles? At the end then you drain the mash tun into the HLT and begin to boil?
David Murphy Yes, that's pretty much it!
how long does it take to get the temperature down to pitch the yeast?
Stephen Grommer it depends on the batch size. For our 1Bbl in the summer we whirlpool with a counterflow chiller down to 100 in around 30 minutes and then we transfer to the fermenter and chill it to pitching temp with our glycol chiller which is another 30 minutes.
In the winter it’s much faster.
HI mate looks good to technical for me though keep up the good work
i have a question, because I'm looking at the 10 gallon version. Do you disconnect the mash tun and the just recirculate the boil kettle after the volume has been transferred over? It may seem like a stupid question, but I was just wondering. Thanks!
Buffalo Beer Reviews Once you have transferred to the Kettle you bring the Wort to a boil. At the end of the boil you might recirculate and whirlpool while chilling.
So there is no infinite loop after the mash out. Just recirc into boil kettle.
Buffalo Beer Reviews You got it.
High Gravity Fermenting Supplies - Brewery - Winery awesome. Thanks.
How long does it take to get to a boil from room temperature?
With 30 gallons, you can raise the temperature about 3 degrees per minute.
Great demonstration Dave. Are you taking any kind of hit on efficiency with this setup? With the controller I just purchased from you, I think this might be the way to go.
Right now we've only done a few batches and are still dialing in the process. So far it's been between 76-80% and that's really where we want it to be. Any better and you risk pulling components out of the grain that are that great for a beer's shelf life.
Can you explain how your sparging. I’m sitting here scratching my head.
Hi Alex, the 2-V system is like a one-vessel system in that all of the water goes in at the start. We still usually do a tiny bit of manual sparging, just pouring over the grain bed.
Hey Dave, I use this exact system, only in 15G size, with a controller I bought from you, just before the Warthog upgrade. I have called you before and I am thinking of upgrading. I also have an improvement idea for you on this system in the video. I may call you tomorrow if I get the time and you happen to be available. This is James from Texarkana, by the way.
Did Dave ever call? Sorry, I'm just now seeing this post!