Matt, I can't believe I just saw your post. So sorry! We ship all over the world and build non-US controllers. Just email Dave and he can fill you in if you are interested. dave@highgravitybrew.com
For the 240V version the average heat time is 4 degrees per minute with typical 8 gallons of strike water. It takes about 15 minutes to reach a boil from a mash temp of 150. If your mash profile includes a mash out, it takes about 5-6 minutes to reach mash out, and then from there you are about 10 minutes away from a boil.
Daan Thijssen It works pretty good but Id say it isnt really good for large amounts of water. I boil a little over 6 gal and it doesnt come to a vigorous boil. It boils but not super hard core. It could use a little more powerful element. Still it works and i like it. I only use mine to boil not mash/sparge. not have all the pumps and hoses.
Do you have the 120v version? I agree the 120v version can struggle to get a vigorous boil. The 240v version can easily boil 6 gallons, even 12 gallons without any problems.
Cards_Fortrade it’s amazing! If you have a 3-wire GFCI the pump will trip the breaker so I highly suggest installing a 4-wire setup. I replaced the bag and basket also with a filter basket from Utah Biodiesel at 400 micron, custom sized for my measurements and holy sh** it’s amazing!! For the price you can’t beat this setup
Can’t you tell me what kind of sprayer nozzle u got. I love this set up...need to know what Paterson to order.. I all ready have the controller...need just from pump to the lid, u guys are great,thanks I do appreciate u doing this video 👍👍cheers🍻
First things first. Very Nice. no I don't brew channel surfing research brought me here. Great heating element section on website. making an experimental project to heat water using water heating element in 5 gallon bucket. yes i can buy an electric heater, already made a rocket stove. I love tools, this is a beauty. i Like, OLE!
You could prob run some sanatizer round this when you`re finished brewing . then once it`s done its thing and you have given it a scrub ,just open the ball valve and dump it out into a bucket .you`d still need to get in and give everything a once over . but it would take a lot of the work out of cleaning the system .
Bo Eriksson It's not a turkey fryer. It's a 62qt stainless steel pot with a basket insert originally made for things like Cajun seafood boils. We added a heating element, pump and controller to complete the system. We love it.
How different is the 120V vs the 240V when it comes to getting water up to temp and boiling? I'm guessing it takes longer? Also any problems keeping a 10 gallon batch boiling?
Hi Kenneth, the 120V element is 2250 Watts. It is practical for net batches up to 5 gallons. With a typical BIAB batch, you may start with 8 gallons in the kettle. You can raise the temperature an average of 2 degrees per minute with a 120V element. This means it takes 45 minutes to raise the temperature to 150 starting from 60, and about 30 minutes to reach a boil from 150. The 240V element is 4500W, and it can raise the temperature twice as fast, and boil twice as much.
Am I correct in assuming James has an electric stove with a 240v plug to be able to use this system ? I would be interested in something like this but my only 240v is in my laundry room. How well does the 120v work because I know other systems that are 120 have issues getting up to temp quickly and people are supplementing with a hear stick, which I don't want to have to do.
James - Today, we are going to demonstrate the high gravity, brew in a bag, electric brewing system. Steve - This is an amazing piece of equipment here. I love this! James - This is the first time that you're seeing this. Steve - I know! LOL...save your time and move along. Steve must be getting kickbacks for selling this...
orbdog I promise there are no kickbacks involved. Steve just appreciates the simplicity and ease of our system. We did not pay him a thing. We did bring a growler of homebrew to share while they were filming though.
Can i buy this spray nozzle on the homepage of highgravity ? to own spare parts, if so i would apprectiate a link :D thanks also the spray nozzle is it circular pattern or straight line ?
***** Since this system recirculates and maintains the temperature very well we get a pretty good effeminacy. I'd say at 70%+ but it goes up if you run some water over the grains and squeeze the bag.
Joel Farris Hi Joel, we have them available as a separate item: www.highgravitybrew.com/store/pc/Lid-Input-Assembly-with-Sprinkler-for-BIAB-269p4120.htm
Craig, the heating element is the Blichmann BoilCoil and it is placed at the bottom of the kettle and the basket rests on a lip on the kettle so it sits above the element.
If it is just touching and not resting on the coils then it is fine. You really don't want to rest the weight of the basket along with the weight of the grains sitting on the coil. The stress could cause the element to weaken and break over time.
Daniel Ferguson Just realized that my answer to your question last month was not posted as a reply so just in case you missed I'm pasting it here. "For the 240V version the average heat time is 4 degrees per minute with typical 8 gallons of strike water. It takes about 15 minutes to reach a boil from a mash temp of 150. If your mash profile includes a mash out, it takes about 5-6 minutes to reach mash out, and then from there you are about 10 minutes away from a boil."
We have updated a few things over the years. We moved the temperature probe to the vessel several years ago. Closer to the heat helps to keep the temperature under tighter control. We also build them with SS QD’s now, and typically with a RipTide pump.
Ray, so sorry for not responding to your question! Apparently UA-cam hasn't been sending me notifications when a comment is posted. There is a lip at the top of the kettle that the basket rests on so it doesn't sit on the coil.
I have a few recipes I would like to make and I'm getting this system my question is in the recipes a few of them say add hops in vorloff how do I do that ??
@@Highgravitybrew2112 sorry I just meant since you cant do that for boil or flame out additions was there much of a point? Though I dont brew Biab and just looking to get into it and Ive heard there can be more trub the deal with. Do you reccomend hopping during vorlauf just to limit hops particles from the get go in liue of whirpooling?
Here's a link to all the controllers that we offer. www.highgravitybrew.com/store/pc/Electric-Brewery-Controllers-c272.htm I recommend the Wort Hog EBC-130 Electric Brewery Controller as an upgrade to the EBC-SV that is in the video. It is our next generation controller. Same price, more features.
When the off the shelf components used in this system are all priced out it comes to well under $450 retail. $999.00 With all due respect, Seems like a pretty hefty markup for assembly and distribution..
This indeed looks like a very nice system. I cant help but think how bad the placement of the temp probe is. Seems like an awful waste of power(and potential pump life) to have to run the pump the entire time bringing up to temp. Having to install a 220v power supply will add to the cost of this beautiful, pricey system. Most homes simply do not have 'extra' 220 just laying around. Very nice though, very nice indeed.
+mrdespizeme We recently changed the location of the temp probe but it still runs during the entire mash. It is necessary in order to maintain a consistent temp throughout the mash. The heating element is switched on when the mash temp drops. We also have a 120v version. One with a pump and one without. We recommend that the one without the pump be stirred every ten minutes to distribute the heat. www.highgravitybrew.com/store/pc/BIAB-Electric-System-LT-120V-269p4652.htm www.highgravitybrew.com/store/pc/BIAB-Electric-Brewing-System-120V-269p4647.htm
+High Gravity Homebrewing & Winemaking Supplies Indeed, a constant temp for the mash is a good thing. I was referring to bringing your water up to strike temp. Just seems like a waste. It's a nice system though, Cheers!
Wow. Was that really necessary? Constructive criticism is welcome but this does nothing to help. Remember the old adage, "If you can't say something nice, don't say anything at all."
If anyone wants to get this for me for Christmas, I wouldn't turn it down lol. Great looking setup!
This looks like a nice set up. These two are entertaining!
I love these guys. Always so great to work with.
Really great system guys. If I was in America I'd be buying one asap!
Matt, I can't believe I just saw your post. So sorry!
We ship all over the world and build non-US controllers. Just email Dave and he can fill you in if you are interested. dave@highgravitybrew.com
"well, if you can't buy beer, you just rent it.." Wilkes is a (beer?) genius...
For the 240V version the average heat time is 4 degrees per minute with typical 8 gallons of strike water. It takes about 15 minutes to reach a boil from a mash temp of 150. If your mash profile includes a mash out, it takes about 5-6 minutes to reach mash out, and then from there you are about 10 minutes away from a boil.
I Just bought this system a couple days ago. Cant wait to get it and start brewing again!
Daan Thijssen
It works pretty good but Id say it isnt really good for large amounts of water. I boil a little over 6 gal and it doesnt come to a vigorous boil. It boils but not super hard core. It could use a little more powerful element. Still it works and i like it. I only use mine to boil not mash/sparge. not have all the pumps and hoses.
Do you have the 120v version? I agree the 120v version can struggle to get a vigorous boil. The 240v version can easily boil 6 gallons, even 12 gallons without any problems.
I have this system with a slightly different element. It works like a dream. I would highly recommend this to others
Ours has the standard heating element too. The new BoilCoil is nice but ours works great.
OK! I just ordered it....can't wait to try it
ZmannR2 how is it brewing with this equipment
Cards_Fortrade it’s amazing! If you have a 3-wire GFCI the pump will trip the breaker so I highly suggest installing a 4-wire setup. I replaced the bag and basket also with a filter basket from Utah Biodiesel at 400 micron, custom sized for my measurements and holy sh** it’s amazing!! For the price you can’t beat this setup
ZmannR2 I was considering the 110 volt set up, also how are the beers tasting
Can’t you tell me what kind of sprayer nozzle u got. I love this set up...need to know what Paterson to order.. I all ready have the controller...need just from pump to the lid, u guys are great,thanks I do appreciate u doing this video 👍👍cheers🍻
First things first. Very Nice. no I don't brew channel surfing research brought me here. Great heating element section on website. making an experimental project to heat water using water heating element in 5 gallon bucket. yes i can buy an electric heater, already made a rocket stove. I love tools, this is a beauty. i Like, OLE!
In the 70's I used to hold the bowl.
I have this system. love it. It absolutely rocks.
ValiRossi so from the pot you can go into your 5 gallon soda keg to ferment and for how long do you ferment?
Cards_Fortrade fermentation usually takes 2 weeks with ales. Until the final gravity stops for a few days
What's the second outlet for where he has the pump plugged into?
Is the quality of beer better with this system than the original biab method?(no recirculation)
You could prob run some sanatizer round this when you`re finished brewing . then once it`s done its thing and you have given it a scrub ,just open the ball valve and dump it out into a bucket .you`d still need to get in and give everything a once over . but it would take a lot of the work out of cleaning the system .
You the guys they got the new bottle opener from? A beauty of a system. Cheers!
Definitely not a secret but a very nice expense. Eventually I'll go electric. nice video guys.
Please do this for the EBC-IIID... I would love to see a whole process video.
Matt Kinney We do need to do a video for the EBC IIID. It's on our list!!!
+High Gravity Homebrewing & Winemaking Supplies pinging this again.. still want to see it.
+Matt Kinney There needs to be a 36 hour day! I will start bugging Dave and try to get something put together.
+Desiree Knott Thank you. I honestly appreciate it. whenever you can though, please don't brew sleepy.
Do you make a 100 gallon system like that?
Is this a turkey fryer conversion with additional pump and electronics? Really loved your setup, HG!
Bo Eriksson It's not a turkey fryer. It's a 62qt stainless steel pot with a basket insert originally made for things like Cajun seafood boils. We added a heating element, pump and controller to complete the system. We love it.
How is the efficiency of the system? I'd some problems with efficiency with BIAB earlier.
How different is the 120V vs the 240V when it comes to getting water up to temp and boiling? I'm guessing it takes longer? Also any problems keeping a 10 gallon batch boiling?
Hi Kenneth, the 120V element is 2250 Watts. It is practical for net batches up to 5 gallons. With a typical BIAB batch, you may start with 8 gallons in the kettle. You can raise the temperature an average of 2 degrees per minute with a 120V element. This means it takes 45 minutes to raise the temperature to 150 starting from 60, and about 30 minutes to reach a boil from 150.
The 240V element is 4500W, and it can raise the temperature twice as fast, and boil twice as much.
Am I correct in assuming James has an electric stove with a 240v plug to be able to use this system ? I would be interested in something like this but my only 240v is in my laundry room. How well does the 120v work because I know other systems that are 120 have issues getting up to temp quickly and people are supplementing with a hear stick, which I don't want to have to do.
+Wingfan13 James actually uses his dryer outlet as well. We extended the length of the power cable to accommodate. We can make them up to 25'.
James and Steve make a much better video than we do.
Great video, is this the 120v set up?
This is actually the 240V setup but it works exactly the same.
Thanks for the info! I'll start saving up my pennies.
James - Today, we are going to demonstrate the high gravity, brew in a bag, electric brewing system.
Steve - This is an amazing piece of equipment here. I love this!
James - This is the first time that you're seeing this.
Steve - I know!
LOL...save your time and move along. Steve must be getting kickbacks for selling this...
orbdog I promise there are no kickbacks involved. Steve just appreciates the simplicity and ease of our system. We did not pay him a thing. We did bring a growler of homebrew to share while they were filming though.
Can i buy this spray nozzle on the homepage of highgravity ? to own spare parts, if so i would apprectiate a link :D thanks
also the spray nozzle is it circular pattern or straight line ?
Magnús Helgi Did you ever found where to purchase the spray nozzle?
BIAB with sparge gives me crazy high efficiency, what kind of efficiency can I expect on something like this?
***** Since this system recirculates and maintains the temperature very well we get a pretty good effeminacy. I'd say at 70%+ but it goes up if you run some water over the grains and squeeze the bag.
What is and where can I get the sprayer used for the lid? I would like to get one of them for my set up.
Joel Farris Hi Joel, we have them available as a separate item:
www.highgravitybrew.com/store/pc/Lid-Input-Assembly-with-Sprinkler-for-BIAB-269p4120.htm
@@Highgravitybrew2112 thank you... I will order soon.
Hello! What kind of nozzle are you using with the lid? Thank you!
Hi Jakub, we currently use a 1/2 in. NPT SS spiral spray head in the lid of the BIAB system.
Is the heating element in the plumbing attached to the lid?
Craig, the heating element is the Blichmann BoilCoil and it is placed at the bottom of the kettle and the basket rests on a lip on the kettle so it sits above the element.
Is this 110 volt or 220 volt system?
I am building a custom version of this using wort hog controller. Does that basket sit right on top of the coil? Touching?
Actually for this pot the basket sits on a ridge that is around 3 inches below the top of the pot, so it "floats" over the Boilcoil.
Do you see a problem with it touching the basket during the mash if its recirculating?
If it is just touching and not resting on the coils then it is fine. You really don't want to rest the weight of the basket along with the weight of the grains sitting on the coil. The stress could cause the element to weaken and break over time.
Thanks!
How long does it take to get up to mash temp, and how long does it take to get to boiling temp?
Daniel Ferguson Just realized that my answer to your question last month was not posted as a reply so just in case you missed I'm pasting it here. "For the 240V version the average heat time is 4 degrees per minute with typical 8 gallons of strike water. It takes about 15 minutes to reach a boil from a mash temp of 150. If your mash profile includes a mash out, it takes about 5-6 minutes to reach mash out, and then from there you are about 10 minutes away from a boil."
Nice!!! Thank you!! This is definitely on my want list for this year! :)
Seems like there are better places to put that temp sensor.
We have updated a few things over the years. We moved the temperature probe to the vessel several years ago. Closer to the heat helps to keep the temperature under tighter control.
We also build them with SS QD’s now, and typically with a RipTide pump.
How did the bucket not rest on heat coil?
Ray, so sorry for not responding to your question! Apparently UA-cam hasn't been sending me notifications when a comment is posted. There is a lip at the top of the kettle that the basket rests on so it doesn't sit on the coil.
I have a few recipes I would like to make and I'm getting this system my question is in the recipes a few of them say add hops in vorloff how do I do that ??
I would suggest throwing them on the grains during the last 5-10 minutes of the mash. A traditional vorloff typically goes for around that time frame.
@@Highgravitybrew2112 why do you reccomend that vs just a hop bag or spider?
MarlowWhere Vorlauf is where you typically recirculate the Wort to set the filter bed after mashing, clarifying it before collecting it in the kettle.
@@Highgravitybrew2112 sorry I just meant since you cant do that for boil or flame out additions was there much of a point? Though I dont brew Biab and just looking to get into it and Ive heard there can be more trub the deal with. Do you reccomend hopping during vorlauf just to limit hops particles from the get go in liue of whirpooling?
can you make this for uk 240volt if so i may buy it
We sure can! Just send an email to dave@highgravitybrew.com and he will can give you more details.
well it looks like we got MR MO and CURLEY so when does LARRY show up in this cartoon??
Question: How much for just the controller??
Here's a link to all the controllers that we offer.
www.highgravitybrew.com/store/pc/Electric-Brewery-Controllers-c272.htm
I recommend the Wort Hog EBC-130 Electric Brewery Controller as an upgrade to the EBC-SV that is in the video. It is our next generation controller. Same price, more features.
What is your opinion of the electric BIAB set up? Thanks.
When the off the shelf components used in this system are all priced out it comes to well under $450 retail. $999.00 With all due respect, Seems like a pretty hefty markup for assembly and distribution..
Well then by all means, build your own controller......some of us don't have the time/skills to build one ourselves
Very nice. It must cost alot
On this particular setup, is this a 120v or 240v?
This setup is the 240V version. We do have a 120V as well.
“I’ll turn it up to 11”
This indeed looks like a very nice system. I cant help but think how bad the placement of the temp probe is. Seems like an awful waste of power(and potential pump life) to have to run the pump the entire time bringing up to temp. Having to install a 220v power supply will add to the cost of this beautiful, pricey system. Most homes simply do not have 'extra' 220 just laying around. Very nice though, very nice indeed.
+mrdespizeme We recently changed the location of the temp probe but it still runs during the entire mash. It is necessary in order to maintain a consistent temp throughout the mash. The heating element is switched on when the mash temp drops.
We also have a 120v version. One with a pump and one without. We recommend that the one without the pump be stirred every ten minutes to distribute the heat.
www.highgravitybrew.com/store/pc/BIAB-Electric-System-LT-120V-269p4652.htm
www.highgravitybrew.com/store/pc/BIAB-Electric-Brewing-System-120V-269p4647.htm
+High Gravity Homebrewing & Winemaking Supplies Indeed, a constant temp for the mash is a good thing. I was referring to bringing your water up to strike temp. Just seems like a waste. It's a nice system though, Cheers!
Walter White lives.
i did not like mo and curley in the30s and i do not like these jerks today.
Wow. Was that really necessary? Constructive criticism is welcome but this does nothing to help. Remember the old adage, "If you can't say something nice, don't say anything at all."
Ass