Nice tool Torb, since finishing my power hammer build about 6 months ago I have learnt that getting nice short and straight tapers for things like punches and chisels is not as easy as it looks but its a learning curve! The more you do the better it gets! Love seeing your work, keep on keeping on mate!
When I make a punch i usually try to get it cut the shank square, if it comes out wrong i grind it flush. Tacking to the handle and straightening afterwards is a much better solution. I will do that from now on. One thing i might suggest, tacking with an electrode like 6011 or 6013 is much easier then 7018. 6013 and 6011 are much easier to start an arc with, as well as restart the same electrode.
Jeremy I meant to tack with 6011/13 and finish with 7018. That is what i do. I have a friend who does all of this welding with 6013 rods because he has an AC transformer, even power hammer tools. I was surprised to hear it but he has no problems with that rod.
Ah the Beche lives! I'm sitting in the Capitol Hotel in Little Rock Arkansas. Drinking Canadian whiskey and bored. Then I see that you made a punch! Isn't the density of steels amazing?! I would have needed a kisser block to make such a uniform handle! Thank you so much for the video! Excellent work as always!
Another great video. I need to stop watching awesome videos like this until the afternoon so I will get a little something done instead of staring out the window for half the day daydreaming about being at my forge . ;)
It's somewhat good to know that I'm not the only one without a proper linisher and has to turn the belt sander upside down. Although, I don't have an autohammer and forge either.
Great video and beautiful build! Really liked the handle. Also was really impressed by your control of the new hammer on the H13 from love taps to heavy forming...impressive! Thanks for sharing your craftsmanship and skills! ~PJ
Great project, I'm going to make one of those. I assume you are welding with low hydrogen rods probably 7018. When I use them now I wear a glove on my left hand so I can hold the hot rod and use a fine file to remove the slag on the end of the rod then it will start welding very easily without all the pecking. Give it a try.Thanks for another great video.
adam anthoni This is more or less light taps only :) No problem forging H13... I'm not strictly following the specs... It should be forged in a pretty narrow temp range I believe, but for this it's fine I think.
Great skills,as always. My wife laughed at me,every time you welded it I either turned away or closed my eyes! Just reflexes I guess. I assume your design could be customised to make pretty much any shaped holes? I am thinking square holes for a metal twisting tool for decorative ironwork.
Andrew Wilson :) Totally natural reaction... Yes, square, oval, round, slot, etc. Only thing to consider with shapes that has an "orientation" is the handle. You might want to orient the handle at 45 degrees to get a clear view of the work.
Ross Sullivan MIG: used for Aluminium, and rust free steels, or any other metals with low or no carbon content. Using *Inert* gas. Such as Argon or Helium. MAG: using *Active* gas, usually a mix of argon and CO2, or pure CO2 for normal steels. Hope that helps.
Mp57navy I, like my equipment, am getting old and have never even heard of MAG until just now. My MIG welding is done with 7013 solid wire and a 70/30 mix of Argon and CO2. Unless I work stainless (rarely in my shop) in which case I use pure Argon. Gotta go to google again, but thanks for the tip...........Ross
Ross Sullivan MIG stands for Metal Inert Gas. Only inert gases or gas mixtures are used for the shielding gas when MIG welding. Typical inert gases used for MIG welding are argon and helium. These gases are usually used for MIG welding of aluminium and other non-ferrous metals. MAG stands for Metal Active Gas. Active gas mixtures have been developed primarily for welding steels. Typical shielding gases are mixtures of argon, carbon dioxide and oxygen e.g. CO2 , Ar + 2 to 5% O2 , Ar + 5 to 25% CO2 and Ar + 10% CO2 + 5% O 2 . The composition of the shielding gas has a substantial effect on the stability of the arc, metal transfer and the amount of spatter. The shielding gas also affects the behaviour of the weld pool, particularly its penetration and the mechanical properties of the welded joint. In the US, both MIG and MAG welding are described by the term GMAW ( Gas Metal Arc Welding). www.twi-global.com/technical-knowledge/faqs/process-faqs/faq-what-is-the-difference-between-mig-and-mag/
Torbjorn I am going to make such a tool. I have some o-1 and some 1045. I thought the 0-1 would be better. If I harden it after I make it will I harm it if I cool the tip in water between heats while punching holes in hot stock with it? Will it get too brittle. I have had O1 crack if put hot into water. Any advice?ThanksFrank
I don't think you should use the O1... dunking it in water when hot will most certainly crack it. O1 is not made for this application at all... BUT if you can handle a failure, there is nothing wrong with testing... My hammer drift is O1 and it works good, but I never cool it in water. 1045 is probably not that good either... it's not so tough steel and hardening it will not change anything since you will loose the hardening fast when it gets hot.
Hello sir, your videos are work of art! Thank you for sharing the knowledge. I would like to ask you something about h13. I never been very interested in using it but I have some comissions for forging tools with it. How should I proceed with it? The tools I have to make are fullers, pritchels and punchs for farriers. I saw you hardening in the air but I didn´t saw you tempering. Their tools are struck with hardned hammers and I´m worried about messing up the heat treat and they got hurt from a cracked tool. I do not have a heat treating oven, just a forge. Thank you Torbjorn!
I'm not that experienced either with H13. It's hard to forge, and you should keep an eye on the temperature. Don't over heat, and don't forge too cold. According to specs the forging temperature is actually a pretty narrow range. For hot working tools I would just let it air harden (no tempering needed I think). It can be hardened in oil also, then you should temper as always. The struck end is a problem I think! It really needs a good normalization, but for this steel that can't be done without an oven...needs to cool very slowly, like 10 deg/h or so. You could try and bury in vermiculite over night, but I doubt it softens up much. On the other hand H13 is very tough and I'm not sure how prune it is to chipping in an air hardened state. Hope that helps somewhat...
Is there a reason other than personal preference that you use a curved cut-off tool? I always find the metal rolls off and I end up with wonky cuts unless I use a straight edged one.
Awesome! Love your videos :) Have a few questions: Why did you draw out the whole piece instead of just the tip of the punch? Why didn't you use round stock? It seems a whole lot easier than rectangular bar. Did you use your new power hammer? Thanks!
knives&stuff Thanks! Whole piece? It should be able to punch thick material... If you want to draw out a taper, you do that in square section at first so that does not matter much. I just used a small left-over piece that I had laying around! Yes I used my new hammer, wasn't that obvious? :)
We don't hit the anvil... as a smith you constantly evaluate what to do next, and you need to skip a blow or two to think, turn, re-grip, then instead of wasting energy on stopping the hammer, we tend to drop it on the anvil or tap it. Hard to explain, but every smith does it to some extent.
Daniel Busby A hammer like this can/could be used for all sorts of things. They were originally made for industrial production. I plan to use it for my heavier work, what that ever may be... :)
Torbjörn Åhman Ok, i thought maybe only this was suitable. Forging it from a solid piece would be to time consuming i presume? Or complicated hardening?
r3belMarshall You want H13 or some other hot working steel for the actual punch. Expensive stuff. Forging it in one piece would also be more complicated.
Couldn't help but notice you didn't roll your long sleeves up while using the belt sander. Although it is not a heavy duty industrial tool capable of pulling an arm off, it could still injure you pretty badly if your sleeve got caught in it.
viperz888 I don't think the actual weld is inferior if it's done right, but it's trickier to use. However it's cheap and you don't have to worry about corroded wire or expensive shield gas.
Nice tool Torb, since finishing my power hammer build about 6 months ago I have learnt that getting nice short and straight tapers for things like punches and chisels is not as easy as it looks but its a learning curve! The more you do the better it gets! Love seeing your work, keep on keeping on mate!
Your videos are beyond excellent. Thank you very much for all the effort you make to share your talent and expertise with us.
What an incredibly well filmed and informative video, many thanks for sharing ~Peace~
Zed Outdoors Thank you!
I enjoy watching tools be made.
great job, thanks for taking the time to show us your work. The cherry on the cake would be to see you use the tool you just made,,,
When I make a punch i usually try to get it cut the shank square, if it comes out wrong i grind it flush. Tacking to the handle and straightening afterwards is a much better solution. I will do that from now on.
One thing i might suggest, tacking with an electrode like 6011 or 6013 is much easier then 7018. 6013 and 6011 are much easier to start an arc with, as well as restart the same electrode.
Paul Krzysz Aha, ok! I'll look into other electrodes for that. This was 7018. Thanks.
Paul Krzysz 6013 and 6011 make a more brittle weld, 7018 is less brittle and is a much better choice for this particular application.
Jeremy I meant to tack with 6011/13 and finish with 7018. That is what i do. I have a friend who does all of this welding with 6013 rods because he has an AC transformer, even power hammer tools. I was surprised to hear it but he has no problems with that rod.
Ah the Beche lives! I'm sitting in the Capitol Hotel in Little Rock Arkansas. Drinking Canadian whiskey and bored. Then I see that you made a punch! Isn't the density of steels amazing?! I would have needed a kisser block to make such a uniform handle! Thank you so much for the video! Excellent work as always!
Very cool! Makes me want to set my forge back up & have a go at some projects.
I am so glad to see your new hammer in action. What a beast! I enjoy watching your projects. Keep up the good work!
Love the birds at the end too... :)
your new hammer is a beast
Wow that power hammer realy gets the job done fast
I always like to drag the electrode across the material to get the arc started. Much more precise than tipping it with that long rod.
Another great video. I need to stop watching awesome videos like this until the afternoon so I will get a little something done instead of staring out the window for half the day daydreaming about being at my forge . ;)
It's somewhat good to know that I'm not the only one without a proper linisher and has to turn the belt sander upside down. Although, I don't have an autohammer and forge either.
Nice work there man!
It works that 10x30mm like it's clay.
I'm in awe.
Cesotoseot Yes pretty much, and I'm still quite easy on the treadle...
Torbjörn Åhman
I really like the handle grip. I hope the tools you make share the same size and handle for uniformity. Cheers great video
Nice job! Like it! I've seen you use this in other videos. Works well! Keep hammering!
Bra den blev! Gillar verkligen dina videos, fortsätt gärna med dom! :)
60fps would be cool for these videos
very nice,cant wait to see the next hammer...
MrJsowa :) No new hammers now for a while... :)
Great video and beautiful build! Really liked the handle. Also was really impressed by your control of the new hammer on the H13 from love taps to heavy forming...impressive! Thanks for sharing your craftsmanship and skills! ~PJ
pjsalchemy Thanks! Yes the control seems good. I need to forge some more to really get to know her! :)
WOW! Nice effect! 3:40
Ricardo Gava Yes, the spinning wheel syndrome :)
Beautiful. The sped-up bit of the power hammer is absolutely pornographic at that frame rate.
Great work just as usual :)
Jätte fint som vanligt
che stile Torbjorn!, bello quell'attrezzo.
:) Thanks
Awesome video and powerful sound! Great skill and craftsmanship! Just keep them (videos) coming ;)
Your videos are mesmerizing... Would make a tour through your shop to show your working space?
Outex Roberto Miglioli Thanks. I might do that in the future...
Questo si che a una forza super quando devi fare il buco per il manico dell.atrezzo bravo
Nice work! Might want to consider rounded striking surfaces for the power hammer when drawing out material, though. Might make life a bit easier.
Wesley Gresham Oh yes, much better for tapers...
Great project, I'm going to make one of those. I assume you are welding with low hydrogen rods probably 7018. When I use them now I wear a glove on my left hand so I can hold the hot rod and use a fine file to remove the slag on the end of the rod then it will start welding very easily without all the pecking. Give it a try.Thanks for another great video.
Thanks. Yes, 7018 I believe, ESAB 48.00
👍👍👍👍👍👍
Nice work
New hammer hits hard! Congrats. And thanks for the video. I didn't think it was possible to forge H-13
adam anthoni This is more or less light taps only :) No problem forging H13... I'm not strictly following the specs... It should be forged in a pretty narrow temp range I believe, but for this it's fine I think.
I want you to squish a 3" billet under that baby! Maybe forge a sledgehammer? That would be so cool.
Again Brilliant
Excellent ! 👍🏻
More of your new hammer!
Very nice work as always, but wouldn't it have been better to drill a hole in the handle and plug weld the punch piece from the back?
Ian Hanna That would have worked fine too. Don't know if it really matters in this case.
Fin video i vanlig ordning, kul att se nya 'leksaken' in action.
Ser framemot nästa video från dig.
/Bengt
bsjoelund Tack Bengt!
i love how the welding endend :3
ill put in practice
is there such thing as being too excited when a new tool making video gets uploaded? bloody good job
Ben Simon :) Thanks!
always super your video...
Great skills,as always. My wife laughed at me,every time you welded it I either turned away or closed my eyes! Just reflexes I guess.
I assume your design could be customised to make pretty much any shaped holes? I am thinking square holes for a metal twisting tool for decorative ironwork.
Andrew Wilson :) Totally natural reaction... Yes, square, oval, round, slot, etc. Only thing to consider with shapes that has an "orientation" is the handle. You might want to orient the handle at 45 degrees to get a clear view of the work.
muito bom,gosto muito dos seus videos,se me permite uma sugestao porque nao faz uma faca garanto que seria um otimo trabalho.
Hello, what are the 2 final diameters of the cone? And the length?
It's not that important. Make it as short as possible and with a slight taper.
Bravo! Great punch. H13 will mig weld fine with the heat or without it. I have done both and it is good so far................Ross
Ross Sullivan I am sure you mean MAG, not MIG. :)
Mp57navy No, I meant MIG. What is MAG? Magnetic? Explain please............Ross
Ross Sullivan
MIG: used for Aluminium, and rust free steels, or any other metals with low or no carbon content. Using *Inert* gas. Such as Argon or Helium.
MAG: using *Active* gas, usually a mix of argon and CO2, or pure CO2 for normal steels.
Hope that helps.
Mp57navy I, like my equipment, am getting old and have never even heard of MAG until just now. My MIG welding is done with 7013 solid wire and a 70/30 mix of Argon and CO2. Unless I work stainless (rarely in my shop) in which case I use pure Argon. Gotta go to google again, but thanks for the tip...........Ross
Ross Sullivan
MIG stands for Metal Inert Gas.
Only inert gases or gas mixtures are used for the shielding gas when MIG welding. Typical inert gases used for MIG welding are argon and helium. These gases are usually used for MIG welding of aluminium and other non-ferrous metals.
MAG stands for Metal Active Gas.
Active gas mixtures have been developed primarily for welding steels. Typical shielding gases are mixtures of argon, carbon dioxide and oxygen e.g. CO2 , Ar + 2 to 5% O2 , Ar + 5 to 25% CO2 and Ar + 10% CO2 + 5% O 2 .
The composition of the shielding gas has a substantial effect on the stability of the arc, metal transfer and the amount of spatter. The shielding gas also affects the behaviour of the weld pool, particularly its penetration and the mechanical properties of the welded joint.
In the US, both MIG and MAG welding are described by the term GMAW ( Gas Metal Arc Welding).
www.twi-global.com/technical-knowledge/faqs/process-faqs/faq-what-is-the-difference-between-mig-and-mag/
Why do u use stick welder instead of mig welding ? Awesome work !!!!!!!
+clackdwack I don't have a mig/mag welder... simple as that. :)
+Torbjörn Åhman sweet no problem, love your work its amazing.
Torbjorn I am going to make such a tool. I have some o-1 and some 1045. I thought the 0-1 would be better. If I harden it after I make it will I harm it if I cool the tip in water between heats while punching holes in hot stock with it? Will it get too brittle. I have had O1 crack if put hot into water. Any advice?ThanksFrank
I don't think you should use the O1... dunking it in water when hot will most certainly crack it. O1 is not made for this application at all... BUT if you can handle a failure, there is nothing wrong with testing... My hammer drift is O1 and it works good, but I never cool it in water. 1045 is probably not that good either... it's not so tough steel and hardening it will not change anything since you will loose the hardening fast when it gets hot.
I took your advice and bought the H13. To do so much work ,better to buy the right steel.
Thanks
Frank (Virginia,USA)
When you where welding the metal
Why did you hit the welding bit on the metal and how did you Laern to do this stuff?
george gibbons That's the nature of stick welding (arc welding)...You make contact with the electrode and withdraw to form an arc.
Hello sir, your videos are work of art! Thank you for sharing the knowledge. I would like to ask you something about h13. I never been very interested in using it but I have some comissions for forging tools with it. How should I proceed with it? The tools I have to make are fullers, pritchels and punchs for farriers. I saw you hardening in the air but I didn´t saw you tempering. Their tools are struck with hardned hammers and I´m worried about messing up the heat treat and they got hurt from a cracked tool. I do not have a heat treating oven, just a forge. Thank you Torbjorn!
I'm not that experienced either with H13. It's hard to forge, and you should keep an eye on the temperature. Don't over heat, and don't forge too cold. According to specs the forging temperature is actually a pretty narrow range. For hot working tools I would just let it air harden (no tempering needed I think). It can be hardened in oil also, then you should temper as always. The struck end is a problem I think! It really needs a good normalization, but for this steel that can't be done without an oven...needs to cool very slowly, like 10 deg/h or so. You could try and bury in vermiculite over night, but I doubt it softens up much. On the other hand H13 is very tough and I'm not sure how prune it is to chipping in an air hardened state. Hope that helps somewhat...
Thank you very much Torbjorn! I´m more confident in trying now. Have a great week sir. cheers from Brazil.
Is there a reason other than personal preference that you use a curved cut-off tool? I always find the metal rolls off and I end up with wonky cuts unless I use a straight edged one.
Sam Thomas Not really. I like how it cuts when I cut to center.
Exelente! Disculpa con que acero lo haces?
The actual punch is H13 steel, the handle is just mild steel.
when you went into slow mo in the power hammer i thought i was tripping out on acid lmfao
truthfulkarl It looks like slow motion but is actually sped up.
use it!
You're final weld undercut the metal. Looks like it needed another pass whilst not running so hot.
Yes, but I don't think it's that important here.
Awesome! Love your videos :)
Have a few questions:
Why did you draw out the whole piece instead of just the tip of the punch?
Why didn't you use round stock? It seems a whole lot easier than rectangular bar.
Did you use your new power hammer?
Thanks!
knives&stuff Thanks! Whole piece? It should be able to punch thick material... If you want to draw out a taper, you do that in square section at first so that does not matter much. I just used a small left-over piece that I had laying around! Yes I used my new hammer, wasn't that obvious? :)
Torbjörn Åhman thanks for answering!
What is the purpose of hitting the anvil before you hit the steel?
We don't hit the anvil... as a smith you constantly evaluate what to do next, and you need to skip a blow or two to think, turn, re-grip, then instead of wasting energy on stopping the hammer, we tend to drop it on the anvil or tap it. Hard to explain, but every smith does it to some extent.
Ok I understand :)
I like it! :)
ok thank you
Very nice video, as always :) Did you share somebody else's facilities before getting your own power hammer?
***** Nope!
Why,,, do you pre heat before you welded the bit on???
H13 steel does not like the temperature chock! It can easily crack at the weld.
Are you using this huge hammer as an artist, or is it more for industrial uses?
Daniel Busby A hammer like this can/could be used for all sorts of things. They were originally made for industrial production. I plan to use it for my heavier work, what that ever may be... :)
Any alternative to the tack welding? seems hard to control..
r3belMarshall It simply depends on the welder :) With a MIG-welder you have much more control.
Torbjörn Åhman Ok, i thought maybe only this was suitable. Forging it from a solid piece would be to time consuming i presume? Or complicated hardening?
r3belMarshall You want H13 or some other hot working steel for the actual punch. Expensive stuff. Forging it in one piece would also be more complicated.
Torbjörn Åhman Right. Makes sense. Thanks
Hi.
Why pre heat before welding? It's not cast iron...
Well done.
Thanks. No, but H13 tool steel, and it does not like to be welded. It can easily crack.
Couldn't help but notice you didn't roll your long sleeves up while using the belt sander. Although it is not a heavy duty industrial tool capable of pulling an arm off, it could still injure you pretty badly if your sleeve got caught in it.
nate smith Yes you're right. It is easy to neglect that sort of thing when using a "safe"/consumer machine like this.
Hello! what steel are you using for make the punch?
H13 tool steel.
Torbjörn Åhman Thanks you very much
Is that a Hofi hammer you're using? If so where can I find one?
Butt Fukkr No, that's a cross peen I forged myself. There are resellers of the Hofi hammer. One is www.angele-shop.com
Is the hammer powered by electrics?
ThePosjo Yes. 7.5 kW motor.
The slow motion video is intresting
what kind of steel is that?
The bit is H13 steel
Thor's hammer :D
what is it for
For punching holes! I use a similar one when making my hammers for example.
You lost me when you got out the welder.
I thought you would forge weld that together
I would say H13 is almost impossible to forge weld. Sorry to disappoint you
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If you're going to cheat and use a welder, at least use a decent type. Mma is horrendous compared to mig or tig
viperz888 I don't think the actual weld is inferior if it's done right, but it's trickier to use. However it's cheap and you don't have to worry about corroded wire or expensive shield gas.
this video made me want to go eat a carrot
Good good...