Just FYI: A passenger side mirror was optional on most cars through the 60s and 70s. If you want a mirror on that side you'll have to drill a couple of holes.
Incredible mechanic, incredible beauty, incredibly smart, Doris you just have it all. Can hardly wait to see what you do with your Mustang. God bless you sweetheart..
Great video, Doris. Fortunately, all of the parts you need to restore your Mustang are available. Specifically, the rust in the trunk floor is the top of the gas tank. You need a new one. The seat covers and foam are available new. One good resource for all of these parts is CJ Pony Parts. They have tons of stuff for Mustangs of any age. Looking forward to see what you do with this car.
All those orange spots in the truck ARE rust. Hopefully it's surface rust. Cars back in the 60's and early 70's only came with one mirror, on the driver's side. The chrome bit you pointed to on the passenger side is what's left of the radio antenna. Seat foam, dash pad and all other upholstery is available new, as well as door panels. The doors are sagging because of the hinge pins. There's rebuild kits available. Except for the rust spots, that paint looks like it can be brought back with a cut and buff... Overall, a great project!! As far as the engine, check the timing first. It might be off.
Before starting, I recommend squirting some engine oil into the cylinders and let it sit for a reasonable amount of time to lubricate the cylinders before oil pressure is achieved. The cylinders have been completely dry after 24 years.
@@Turbogto_guy - not if the spark plugs are out, which will give the engine a chance to expel any oil that didn't drain into the crankcase. It'll be messy, but it won't hydro-lock.
@@jsimmonstx why would someone take spark plugs out and let the engine sit? Extra effort to screw an engine up? Or an effort on your part to try and be right about something?
@@Turbogto_guy - that's not what I'm sayng at all - YOU take the plugs out to apply the MMO, and after an appropriate soak time, you turn the motor over (with the plugs still out) to evacuate any MMO that didn't drain past the rings... Beyond that, I've seen plenty of "will-it-run" videos where the plugs weren't in the motor when the effort to see if the car would run started. You'd be surprised... Or maybe not...
Make sure to inspect inside the fuel tank. It may be rusty inside and will probably be worth replacing. Also inspect the fuel and brake lines. The orange color in the trunk is surface rust. As long as the metal isn’t soft you can use POR15 over it because it protects the metal from rusting any further. Keeping the paint and interior original is a great idea. Can’t wait to see you start working on it!
That car is pretty straight and ding free. I wouldn't be in a hurry to paint it. It had a nice patina. For the trunk rust. Thats just the top of your gss tank. My 69 coupe didnt come with side mirrors either. Feel free to reach out if you have any questions
Autokrafters , NPD, Scott Drakes, C J Pony cars and others for parts. That your gas tank in center of trunk it made floor. Most cars that year only had drivers mirror. The left front fender piece is your antenna for radio that broke off.
Doris, I'm super excited to see what you're going to do to your Mustang. Not sure what your total plans are but maybe think about upgrading as you go. A 50-year-old car drives like a 50-year-old car. Parts and technology have changed a lot over the years so maybe some nice upgrades to make it more drivable and enjoyable. Good luck on your adventure!
The rear window has black trim that goes around the window if you remove it usually the passenger side and drivers side corners get rust holes from water sitting there and having no where to drain. I had to replace the metal there on my 69 coupe from rain and car washes. My 69 has a 351 bored and stroked to a 416 with a 6 speed manual, and 4 wheel baer brakes. They are fun just crazy money.
Dont forget to service the Transmission once you get the engine started. That transmission is a C4 3 speed. It can be a finicky transmission if it is not maintained. Good luck Doris !!!!
Well done finding a 69 that's in rebuild condition. I was half expecting to find huge rust holes in the floor pan but this one is in very good shape. You have a long road ahead of you in restoring it and I really hope that you do keep it as much as possible original. You may be lucky to get away with starting the engine and give it a quick drive but I wouldn't expect too much from it. I would be checking the state of the oil before attempting to start it. If the oil is milky then don't even bother trying to start it. The engine is full of water. if the oil looks ok then I would certainly take the plugs out and pure some oil down the plug holes first and give it a good wind over before trying to start it. Best to get everything free and lubricated first. It wouldn't hurt also to take the rocker covers off and pure oil over the valve running gear. It's been sitting dry for a long time.
I like that you're willing to give this a try - being new at it. Wish you the best of luck. I'll be watching. Couple of notes. There should be "sport" mirrors available for both driver's side and passenger's side. They look much better, but on the more base models of Mustangs, they typically came with only one mirror for the driver's side. I'll be really interested to see what modifications you make. I really like the old school torq thrust wheels on that car. Hope you leave them or something similar. Good luck!
The rear end in that car is what called a 8” used in a lot of Ford cars in 60-70-80. A small version of 9” but is still a strong rear end. The wheels a classic and it being a 5 on 4 1/2 bolt pattern you can take the wheel off your Shelley and put on the 69 might have to use spacer on front to clear control arms.
That is the antenna at 2:52, and I wish I could send you a picture of my passenger door/mirror on my '70 Mach I to show you what the mirror should look like. National Parts Depot or a place like that should be able to get the exact reproductions. To get it running, obviously air/fuel/spark. Don't overlook anything. Check timing, correct firing order, everything to do with the carburetor (float level, power valve, etc. take the fuel bowls off), etc. Ford numbers the cylinders 1,2,3,4 on the passenger side and 5,6,7,8 on the driver side, and firing order on a 1969 non HO 302 is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8. It's always more than you initially think it's going to be. Keep your head up Doris.
Try NPD Mustang Parts, they are just one of the Supplies. And carry some Scott Drake Parts. They sell a wide range of products for your Mustang. But, truthfully the 1964-1966 has more parts available. Thanks.
You should order the deluxe Marti Report. That blue on blue could be a rare combination, you would learn what options your car came with among other things. All you need is the VIN.
Beautiful car and great video! Your seats can be upholstered and the colors can be matched to the originals, you can also just buy a repop of your original dashpad and the passenger side mirror was optional for your car from the factory. When you began looking into different components for your car that alot of them will be available as repops as well as some original! It truly is a beautiful car and well worth the money you invest in it. Hav a blessed day and upcoming week!!!
I think this is going to be a great project ... It will be a lot of work restoring everything.. you might want to think about a modern frame and nice big new motor
The distributors of that period had points and condensors which had to be changed at regular intervals. They're located under the distributor cap. Check the condition of the cap and rotor as well. I found Dennis Carpenter in Charlotte, North Carolina to be very helpful in finding old Ford parts.
Hello from North Carolina,USA.the transmission can be serviced as well..Remove the pan and partially drain the fluid and change the filter.That particular transmission is a C4 style
Before you try to start it, pull the spark plugs and put a couple on squirts of oil in each cylinder, put the old plugs back in, disable the ignition and crank it over several times. Then install your new plugs and connect the ignition, then try to start. If the car has been sitting the cylinder walls will be dry.
Hi Doris i say blue seats and for the paint youcan always look and learn let them show you how to lay down your paint . So when you ready to paint the camery you will have a little know how 👍👍👍
I don’t recall if my 68 Mustang had a right side mirror. I do know it had a left side mirror which was manually adjusted from the inside. I know because I had to replace it. A real pain. Check through the chrome plating on the bumpers. Mine started to flake off and I had to replace them. Also check the upper and lower control arm bushings I had to change mine they came without grease fittings. Also had to change the ball joints numerous times. No grease fittings from factory. Check the folding hinge on the drivers seat inboard side. Changed mine at least two or three times. It would just break when you didn’t want it to. Engine was mine had a 289 cu in ( one hell of a motor ) does yours have a 302 cubic inch or larger? Keep an extra starter solenoid on hand located on the fwd R/h fender well. They crap out often or have a jumper cable to to bypass it. You’ll see it. That’s pretty much it I changed points and plugs and oil ( 5W 30 ) regularly and on long hauls got 20+ MPG but back then I used premium gas ( real gas ) not todays crap. Have fun with it I’ll follow your build. Artie ❤️ one more thing get an electronic water temp gauge. The regular one sucked. I also still have the Chiltons hard cover manual and the regular timing light ,compression gauge , tach and dwell meter and remote starter and who knows what else. ❤️
Check fuse box, where it connects both interior at firewall above and left of brake pedal and from engine bay at firewall. Mine was loose and I had to re-solder it. Before that sometimes I would hit a bump or on a hard turn and the engine would just stop because it would loose spark on that hot wire that connected at the firewall. It was a sporadic problem and was only found after severe frustration. Finally during the search I moved the wires back and forth that were connected at the firewall inside the engine compartment and duplicated the issue. Upon inspection after disconnecting the fuse box a charred large connecting positive wire was found as the culprit and fixed.
Everything orange … is rust, but looks like generally surface rust. But definitely replace the gas tank, most things you mentioned can be repaired vs replaced. Engine work on these classic cars is easy and easy to fall in love with.
You should come up with a build plan. Is it a daily driver original? Keeping it as original as possible? Or restomod, with personal mods to your taste. Different engine, transmission, suspension, brakes, interior, what are your plans?
Nice thing about those mustangs is everything is available, at it was, the 641/2 thru 66 I believe you can build a complete new car? Been out of the loop for a while???
That hose by the oil pan is the power steering return hose. if the pump is bad get a rebuild kit, they are $20 at Auto zone and easy to install , only use Type F or Mercron in the PS pump. That "universal" fluid will damage the pressure seal in nothing flat. When you do the brakes, do the rear first. when the rear brakes are bad the front brakes take the extra load which causes the shock towers to crack.
Still a great find Doris. Especially after I saw a fastback Mustang in Orlando yesterday. Guy wanted ALL the arms and legs for it and it was a complete rust bucket shell. Apparently he used parts off it to fix up a 2nd fully restored fastback which he refused to think about selling. Need to find a time machine and go back and buy 1 new then store it for safe keeping before returning. 😂
Dorace, everything you need is available from National Parts Depot, and probably the California location is nearest to you. They can advise you, supply you with parts, or both. I am fortunate because I have a location here in the Metro Detroit area in Michigan. You have a great channel, Blue is my favorite color, and I can't wait to see what your creative mind comes up with.😂❤
Doris I hope can make this brief and the point, get a mustang catalog there are any and most of them sell every nut and bolt you need to restore a mustang. From what I saw under the hood I think you are missing the power steering pump cuz I hoses under the car that look like power steering lines. The car looks really rust free besides the surface rust and must of that can be cleaned up with a wire brush. I would get it running and do one thing at a time so small projects at a time. But it's you car. Love your videos and if I can be of any help I'd can help answer any questions
That car is in good shape and they are very easy to wrench on. With that shop/lift, a shop manual and some patience the job should be pretty easy. Good luck.
You probably squirt some Fogging Oil into each cylinder before starting it. Also flushing out all the old fluid is a must. CJ Pony Parts and Classic Industries are two sources to look into.
My dad was a Ford salesman for years I remember the 69 mustangs as a kid I remember the 429 mustang it was all engene lol very pretty cars There is a electrical problem that Ford had back then , If u press the brakes , and push the 4 ways but not all the way in the radio will play lol
The rust in the trunk is indeed rust. You may need a new fuel tank (especially considering the car has been sitting for 24 years) - check with a bore scope and make sure the inside isn't rusty. Check/flush the fuel line to make sure there's no debris. DO NOT try to start the car with fuel from the gas tank. use a gas can with a hose leading to the mechanical fuel pump to make sure the car is getting the cleanest fuel possible. Also, use 93-octane fuel. The seats can be salvaged (re-padded and upholstered, assuming the frames aren't rusted out. Fortunately, the Gen 1/2 Mustangs are widely supported in the aftermarket restoration business, so finding replacements for factory stuff is fairly easy - and can be extremely expensive. The rear end is a standard 8-inch with 28-spline axles, As long as you don't make too much torque with the engine, it should be fine, but does probably need gaskets and seals. The motor is probably a 302. Stock block 302's can only survive about 450hp, so I would avoid boosting it (if that was your plan). If the motor is junk, to keep it simple, consider buying a stout 331 or 347 stroker long block from BluePrintEngines.com. I've heard good things about them, and they're reasonably priced. Getting a long block allows you to dress the motor the way you like, including intake, carburetor, and distributor (their complete engines come with a GM-style HEI distributor which is a) GM, and b) ugly as hell. To see if it runs, you need three things - fuel, spark, and compression. My advice is to watch a channel like What the Rust or Vice Grip Garage to see the process they go through to try to start a car that's been sitting for decades.
Mi niña ese Mustang is a beauty wow my father tenía uno Rojo que hermoso te voy a seguir to see the way you do the restauración you are the best love you cuídate 🙏🙏🙏❤️❤️❤️😘😘✋👍👍🙏
Well for starters, fuel tank & lines should be removed, tank inspected to see how bad it is, when the sit for that long fuel crystallizes turn to rusty mess, will rust from the inside out. The carb is going to be all stuck inside and most likely non usable, after that change oil & filter, removed distributor cap to where the rotor is pointing as make note then remove distributor, to get to the oil pump drive, to pump up oil to the top of the motor before attempting to turn the motor over, go to UA-cam videos for this, a ton of them. Last cars back the only cam with one side view mirror, they weren't required to have 2, that changed some time in the seventies I believe. Good luck with things.
Hi Doris, I don't know how far you really want to go with the car, but I would strip it down completely and send it out to be painted properly that is back to bare metal. While that is being done clean up all the mechanical components to the stage you want, and reassemble it all yourself. In the States you have a lot of places the make reproduction things for those cars and at the end of the day you will have a great car that is worth a bit of money. Just my idea thinking good luck.👍
Every single part that you need for your car is available through many suppliers including all the seat upholstery, seat foam, dash, door panels in the color that you need. You can literally build a whole car just by ordering the parts you need from a catalog.
It's a decent project mustang to start with ...take your time ..do it right ..I have proof...I started with a California rust free 66 fastback gt mustang . It can be seen on my channel 66 fastbackguy on you tube ..
Doris,if that engine is original. It should be a 289 Cid. Do some checking and hopefully it's a number matching car. I'm going to follow you on this build. Sweet ride.
As I have learned from he years. Off the factory assembly line stock is a restoration. You up grade modify 1 item you are into Restomod. I think it was up to the 80's I forget when stopped. But passenger mirrors were an upgrade didn't come stock.
Doris everything you said about the motor sounds about right. The most important thing is a spark. Once you figure out the firing order everything else should fall into place. And it was a pretty good idea to dump all the fuel. Because any debris gets in the fuel line it will mess the float up. And I also would put a electronic fuel pump on it. 😎👍🇺🇸🇨🇱🏴☠️
The hoses are your power steering hoses, they are supposed to be attached to the power steering pump, it looks like they are attached to the power steering ram. Another item you will want to change, to a power rack and pinion steering system.
Ok we can talk all day (I wish). Classic Industries has oem style seat covers in your blue, just looked in 5 seconds lol...they will have a million other things you need for interior/exterior. There are several companies like Classic, including Summit and CJ Pony that have tons of oem style vendors supplying them with everything you need. The "Mustang" emblems and letters, logos and horses are all available easily. The trunk... that is surface rust. Use a power sander or wheel and work hard to get it all, especially down in those side pockets, and when you get it sanded and cleaned, then wipe on anti rust corrosion prevention, let it dry, then prime it quickly so rust can't begin to grow again. Your PPG paint supply store knows ALL these methods and has the corrosion prevention liquid. That fender dent can be knocked out by a decent dentless repair shop, no problem. You can take it off without taking the whole car to them, unless you're gonna have the car painted by others. Tempted to suggest buying an aftermarket trunk lid...depends on the whole trunk lid rust situation. New ones are $250ish. Also, all these same types of mega companies have literally every part for Camaros too!
You need to prime the oil pump and push oil up to the valves. I would take the valve covers off to make sure you have oil going to the top of the engine before starting. Why because if the oil isn’t pumping oil to the top of the engine you risk damaging the internal parts of the engine especially after 24 years of sitting.
Doris everything you want to do is out there. You won’t have any problems, no more then I am trying to focus watching this while you’re in the daisy dukes
Pour a glass of water in the cowl. Make sure it doesn't leak inside the car. Almost every Mustang I've seen leaks there. Can't wait to see your progress once you start tearing into it. I miss my old 66.
Also tempted to suggest a new oem gas tank, then you KNOW you have a clean fuel system after 20 years. Blow out the lines when its apart...and all new fuel hoses. The trans looks like its been rebuilt.
A lot of work to restore this classic rare Mustang coupe. I mean rare because of parts may or may not be available but the work I saw in the past videos, I say will be rewarding later.
@Woman.Driven let me park my car in your shop 😫 , I need to get some work done myself, and looking to register it in AZ. I’ll pay Lift Space Rent to get the job done.
just pour a little gas in the carburetor and crank it . if starts runs a few seconds, your done with it. don't change all that stuff. you are thrying to start it as cheaply as possible.
I bought a sbc crate motor instructions said to crank without spark plugs til i got oil press then put plugs in and start it might spray a little wd or something in the cylinders since its sat so long
Sweety I am doing over my 69 fastback, love that your doing this one, I adore you your sweet, so yes Wildwood disc all 4 sides, new suspension in rear, front end 1 of 2 ways, do an old school Shelby set up or coilovers, and think about this, a 5 speed transmission, electronic ignition and let her too n tear with you in the seat ! I have 12 Mustang's and have a lot of other kinds but my heart is with a stang and you !
Just FYI: A passenger side mirror was optional on most cars through the 60s and 70s. If you want a mirror on that side you'll have to drill a couple of holes.
My 69 doesn't have a passenger mirror either.
Oh please don't do anything silly like putting a wing on the back. ......
I didn’t remember that. Good point.
That's correct, my 69 Ford XLT doesn't have one on the p side either
Maybe use cameras
Incredible mechanic, incredible beauty, incredibly smart, Doris you just have it all. Can hardly wait to see what you do with your Mustang. God bless you sweetheart..
everything but the correct work wear
Great video, Doris. Fortunately, all of the parts you need to restore your Mustang are available. Specifically, the rust in the trunk floor is the top of the gas tank. You need a new one. The seat covers and foam are available new. One good resource for all of these parts is CJ Pony Parts. They have tons of stuff for Mustangs of any age. Looking forward to see what you do with this car.
I've used CJ's for two different restorations. Good products and prices.
All those orange spots in the truck ARE rust. Hopefully it's surface rust. Cars back in the 60's and early 70's only came with one mirror, on the driver's side. The chrome bit you pointed to on the passenger side is what's left of the radio antenna. Seat foam, dash pad and all other upholstery is available new, as well as door panels. The doors are sagging because of the hinge pins. There's rebuild kits available. Except for the rust spots, that paint looks like it can be brought back with a cut and buff... Overall, a great project!! As far as the engine, check the timing first. It might be off.
Before starting, I recommend squirting some engine oil into the cylinders and let it sit for a reasonable amount of time to lubricate the cylinders before oil pressure is achieved. The cylinders have been completely dry after 24 years.
I’ve never seen oil dry up. FYI if you over do it with the oil it could hydraulic lock.
@@Turbogto_guy - not if the spark plugs are out, which will give the engine a chance to expel any oil that didn't drain into the crankcase. It'll be messy, but it won't hydro-lock.
@@jsimmonstx why would someone take spark plugs out and let the engine sit? Extra effort to screw an engine up? Or an effort on your part to try and be right about something?
@@Turbogto_guy - that's not what I'm sayng at all - YOU take the plugs out to apply the MMO, and after an appropriate soak time, you turn the motor over (with the plugs still out) to evacuate any MMO that didn't drain past the rings...
Beyond that, I've seen plenty of "will-it-run" videos where the plugs weren't in the motor when the effort to see if the car would run started. You'd be surprised... Or maybe not...
Make sure to inspect inside the fuel tank. It may be rusty inside and will probably be worth replacing. Also inspect the fuel and brake lines. The orange color in the trunk is surface rust. As long as the metal isn’t soft you can use POR15 over it because it protects the metal from rusting any further. Keeping the paint and interior original is a great idea. Can’t wait to see you start working on it!
super easy to find parts for that model (seats,ect.) looking forward to seeing the build!
That car is pretty straight and ding free. I wouldn't be in a hurry to paint it. It had a nice patina.
For the trunk rust. Thats just the top of your gss tank.
My 69 coupe didnt come with side mirrors either.
Feel free to reach out if you have any questions
Autokrafters , NPD, Scott Drakes, C J Pony cars and others for parts. That your gas tank in center of trunk it made floor. Most cars that year only had drivers mirror. The left front fender piece is your antenna for radio that broke off.
If you want some tips, watch Vice Grip Garage! Great video, looking forward to the engine start up! 😉
it’s kinda fun watching a newbie, this is only the beginning & she’s got a lot of work ahead of her!
Doris, I'm super excited to see what you're going to do to your Mustang. Not sure what your total plans are but maybe think about upgrading as you go. A 50-year-old car drives like a 50-year-old car. Parts and technology have changed a lot over the years so maybe some nice upgrades to make it more drivable and enjoyable. Good luck on your adventure!
The rear window has black trim that goes around the window if you remove it usually the passenger side and drivers side corners get rust holes from water sitting there and having no where to drain. I had to replace the metal there on my 69 coupe from rain and car washes. My 69 has a 351 bored and stroked to a 416 with a 6 speed manual, and 4 wheel baer brakes. They are fun just crazy money.
Dont forget to service the Transmission once you get the engine started. That transmission is a C4 3 speed. It can be a finicky transmission if it is not maintained. Good luck Doris !!!!
Well done finding a 69 that's in rebuild condition. I was half expecting to find huge rust holes in the floor pan but this one is in very good shape. You have a long road ahead of you in restoring it and I really hope that you do keep it as much as possible original. You may be lucky to get away with starting the engine and give it a quick drive but I wouldn't expect too much from it. I would be checking the state of the oil before attempting to start it. If the oil is milky then don't even bother trying to start it. The engine is full of water. if the oil looks ok then I would certainly take the plugs out and pure some oil down the plug holes first and give it a good wind over before trying to start it. Best to get everything free and lubricated first. It wouldn't hurt also to take the rocker covers off and pure oil over the valve running gear. It's been sitting dry for a long time.
I like that you're willing to give this a try - being new at it. Wish you the best of luck. I'll be watching. Couple of notes. There should be "sport" mirrors available for both driver's side and passenger's side. They look much better, but on the more base models of Mustangs, they typically came with only one mirror for the driver's side. I'll be really interested to see what modifications you make. I really like the old school torq thrust wheels on that car. Hope you leave them or something similar. Good luck!
The rear end in that car is what called a 8” used in a lot of Ford cars in 60-70-80. A small version of 9” but is still a strong rear end. The wheels a classic and it being a 5 on 4 1/2 bolt pattern you can take the wheel off your Shelley and put on the 69 might have to use spacer on front to clear control arms.
That is the antenna at 2:52, and I wish I could send you a picture of my passenger door/mirror on my '70 Mach I to show you what the mirror should look like. National Parts Depot or a place like that should be able to get the exact reproductions.
To get it running, obviously air/fuel/spark. Don't overlook anything. Check timing, correct firing order, everything to do with the carburetor (float level, power valve, etc. take the fuel bowls off), etc. Ford numbers the cylinders 1,2,3,4 on the passenger side and 5,6,7,8 on the driver side, and firing order on a 1969 non HO 302 is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8.
It's always more than you initially think it's going to be. Keep your head up Doris.
Sweet ride! You can get any part you need for them.... Back in the 90's... I had a 69 mustang... I restored... It was red with black strips
Try NPD Mustang Parts, they are just one of the Supplies. And carry some Scott Drake Parts. They sell a wide range of products for your Mustang. But, truthfully the 1964-1966 has more parts available. Thanks.
You should order the deluxe Marti Report. That blue on blue could be a rare combination, you would learn what options your car came with among other things. All you need is the VIN.
Beautiful car and great video! Your seats can be upholstered and the colors can be matched to the originals, you can also just buy a repop of your original dashpad and the passenger side mirror was optional for your car from the factory. When you began looking into different components for your car that alot of them will be available as repops as well as some original! It truly is a beautiful car and well worth the money you invest in it. Hav a blessed day and upcoming week!!!
Hello young lady that good that you could get busy with your vehicle. I’m looking forward it to seeing more of you chula 😄😊
Tons of videos here on UA-cam. Pre computer cars are relatively easy to work on. Smackeys Garage channel owns a 69 mustang. Good luck.
I think this is going to be a great project ... It will be a lot of work restoring everything.. you might want to think about a modern frame and nice big new motor
The distributors of that period had points and condensors which had to be changed at regular intervals. They're located under the distributor cap. Check the condition of the cap and rotor as well. I found Dennis Carpenter in Charlotte, North Carolina to be very helpful in finding old Ford parts.
Hello from North Carolina,USA.the transmission can be serviced as well..Remove the pan and partially drain the fluid and change the filter.That particular transmission is a C4 style
back in the day the passenger side mirror was optional. my 71 challenger was the same and has no mounting point for a side mirror either
Before you try to start it, pull the spark plugs and put a couple on squirts of oil in each cylinder, put the old plugs back in, disable the ignition and crank it over several times.
Then install your new plugs and connect the ignition, then try to start. If the car has been sitting the cylinder walls will be dry.
Mustang Upskirt, that's funny. Good luck with both builds.
Great car! My Dad had this exact Mustang model when I was a kid. FYI...those are not fog lamps, those are your turn signals.😊
Hi Doris i say blue seats and for the paint youcan always look and learn let them show you how to lay down your paint .
So when you ready to paint the camery you will have a little know how 👍👍👍
I don’t recall if my 68 Mustang had a right side mirror. I do know it had a left side mirror which was manually adjusted from the inside. I know because I had to replace it. A real pain. Check through the chrome plating on the bumpers. Mine started to flake off and I had to replace them. Also check the upper and lower control arm bushings I had to change mine they came without grease fittings. Also had to change the ball joints numerous times. No grease fittings from factory. Check the folding hinge on the drivers seat inboard side. Changed mine at least two or three times. It would just break when you didn’t want it to. Engine was mine had a 289 cu in ( one hell of a motor ) does yours have a 302 cubic inch or larger? Keep an extra starter solenoid on hand located on the fwd R/h fender well. They crap out often or have a jumper cable to to bypass it. You’ll see it. That’s pretty much it I changed points and plugs and oil ( 5W 30 ) regularly and on long hauls got 20+ MPG but back then I used premium gas ( real gas ) not todays crap. Have fun with it I’ll follow your build. Artie ❤️ one more thing get an electronic water temp gauge. The regular one sucked. I also still have the Chiltons hard cover manual and the regular timing light ,compression gauge , tach and dwell meter and remote starter and who knows what else. ❤️
Check fuse box, where it connects both interior at firewall above and left of brake pedal and from engine bay at firewall. Mine was loose and I had to re-solder it. Before that sometimes I would hit a bump or on a hard turn and the engine would just stop because it would loose spark on that hot wire that connected at the firewall. It was a sporadic problem and was only found after severe frustration. Finally during the search I moved the wires back and forth that were connected at the firewall inside the engine compartment and duplicated the issue. Upon inspection after disconnecting the fuse box a charred large connecting positive wire was found as the culprit and fixed.
I love 69 coupes! My brother had a beautiful one back in the early 70's
Everything orange … is rust, but looks like generally surface rust. But definitely replace the gas tank, most things you mentioned can be repaired vs replaced. Engine work on these classic cars is easy and easy to fall in love with.
You should come up with a build plan. Is it a daily driver original? Keeping it as original as possible? Or restomod, with personal mods to your taste. Different engine, transmission, suspension, brakes, interior, what are your plans?
P.S.put some penetrating Oil or WD 40 in the Sparkplug hole before starting it, to loose up the CYL. Brent Gordon Good Luck!!!
Nice thing about those mustangs is everything is available, at it was, the 641/2 thru 66 I believe you can build a complete new car? Been out of the loop for a while???
That hose by the oil pan is the power steering return hose. if the pump is bad get a rebuild kit, they are $20 at Auto zone and easy to install , only use Type F or Mercron in the PS pump. That "universal" fluid will damage the pressure seal in nothing flat. When you do the brakes, do the rear first. when the rear brakes are bad the front brakes take the extra load which causes the shock towers to crack.
Happy build looks like fun
Still a great find Doris. Especially after I saw a fastback Mustang in Orlando yesterday. Guy wanted ALL the arms and legs for it and it was a complete rust bucket shell. Apparently he used parts off it to fix up a 2nd fully restored fastback which he refused to think about selling. Need to find a time machine and go back and buy 1 new then store it for safe keeping before returning. 😂
NPD has your emblems, Mustang owner since 1975....many restoration
the fuel tank is likely full of rust inside , you can get a new tank from Summit for less than 150.00 and it is very easy to swap out
Dorace, everything you need is available from National Parts Depot, and probably the California location is nearest to you. They can advise you, supply you with parts, or both. I am fortunate because I have a location here in the Metro Detroit area in Michigan. You have a great channel, Blue is my favorite color, and I can't wait to see what your creative mind comes up with.😂❤
Doris I hope can make this brief and the point, get a mustang catalog there are any and most of them sell every nut and bolt you need to restore a mustang. From what I saw under the hood I think you are missing the power steering pump cuz I hoses under the car that look like power steering lines. The car looks really rust free besides the surface rust and must of that can be cleaned up with a wire brush. I would get it running and do one thing at a time so small projects at a time. But it's you car. Love your videos and if I can be of any help I'd can help answer any questions
Great doris I can't wait to see it once its restored and back to life with mods 🤟💯🙌💕
That car is in good shape and they are very easy to wrench on. With that shop/lift, a shop manual and some patience the job should be pretty easy. Good luck.
Most important thing is fixing the brake system and consider a modern stance. If I recall that one wasn’t good in corners.
Wow nice performance
Don't forget about the cap and rotor Trans fluid and diff fluid
You probably squirt some Fogging Oil into each cylinder before starting it. Also flushing out all the old fluid is a must. CJ Pony Parts and Classic Industries are two sources to look into.
My dad was a Ford salesman for years I remember the 69 mustangs as a kid I remember the 429 mustang it was all engene lol very pretty cars There is a electrical problem that Ford had back then , If u press the brakes , and push the 4 ways but not all the way in the radio will play lol
Dash covers used be be really expensive but you can buy them now in the 400.00 range.
I saw a guy here in UA-cam order an upholstery kit for a mustang just like yours...including the carpet and door panels.
The rust in the trunk is indeed rust. You may need a new fuel tank (especially considering the car has been sitting for 24 years) - check with a bore scope and make sure the inside isn't rusty. Check/flush the fuel line to make sure there's no debris. DO NOT try to start the car with fuel from the gas tank. use a gas can with a hose leading to the mechanical fuel pump to make sure the car is getting the cleanest fuel possible. Also, use 93-octane fuel.
The seats can be salvaged (re-padded and upholstered, assuming the frames aren't rusted out.
Fortunately, the Gen 1/2 Mustangs are widely supported in the aftermarket restoration business, so finding replacements for factory stuff is fairly easy - and can be extremely expensive.
The rear end is a standard 8-inch with 28-spline axles, As long as you don't make too much torque with the engine, it should be fine, but does probably need gaskets and seals.
The motor is probably a 302. Stock block 302's can only survive about 450hp, so I would avoid boosting it (if that was your plan). If the motor is junk, to keep it simple, consider buying a stout 331 or 347 stroker long block from BluePrintEngines.com. I've heard good things about them, and they're reasonably priced. Getting a long block allows you to dress the motor the way you like, including intake, carburetor, and distributor (their complete engines come with a GM-style HEI distributor which is a) GM, and b) ugly as hell.
To see if it runs, you need three things - fuel, spark, and compression.
My advice is to watch a channel like What the Rust or Vice Grip Garage to see the process they go through to try to start a car that's been sitting for decades.
You can order a comple interior for that car, new seat covers , new door panels , new headliner , dash pad , and carpet , even a headliner if needed
Mi niña ese Mustang is a beauty wow my father tenía uno Rojo que hermoso te voy a seguir to see the way you do the restauración you are the best love you cuídate 🙏🙏🙏❤️❤️❤️😘😘✋👍👍🙏
Keep it the same blue! That's the classic color for that year.
Well for starters, fuel tank & lines should be removed, tank inspected to see how bad it is, when the sit for that long
fuel crystallizes turn to rusty mess, will rust from the inside out. The carb is going to be all stuck inside and most
likely non usable, after that change oil & filter, removed distributor cap to where the rotor is pointing as make note
then remove distributor, to get to the oil pump drive, to pump up oil to the top of the motor before attempting to
turn the motor over, go to UA-cam videos for this, a ton of them. Last cars back the only cam with one side view
mirror, they weren't required to have 2, that changed some time in the seventies I believe. Good luck with things.
Beautiful car can't wait to hear the 24 year old cold start
Pull the valve cover off and inspect the rocker and valve make sure nothing is broken or bent . See if there’s any rust or sludge just in case .
Hi Doris, I don't know how far you really want to go with the car, but I would strip it down completely and send it out to be painted properly that is back to bare metal. While that is being done clean up all the mechanical components to the stage you want, and reassemble it all yourself. In the States you have a lot of places the make reproduction things for those cars and at the end of the day you will have a great car that is worth a bit of money. Just my idea thinking good luck.👍
My first car was an Acapulco Blue ‘69 Mustang. These used to be $300-1500 cars. Probably a $15k car.
Every single part that you need for your car is available through many suppliers including all the seat upholstery, seat foam, dash, door panels in the color that you need. You can literally build a whole car just by ordering the parts you need from a catalog.
It's a decent project mustang to start with ...take your time ..do it right ..I have proof...I started with a California rust free 66 fastback gt mustang . It can be seen on my channel 66 fastbackguy on you tube ..
Doris,if that engine is original. It should be a 289 Cid. Do some checking and hopefully it's a number matching car. I'm going to follow you on this build. Sweet ride.
No it should be a 302 for 1969. The last year for 289 was 1968. I had a 69 Sportsroof from 1983-1998.
Nice Stang and Ford T-shirt 👕
☺️
Great car projects 😮
Don't forget to put new points in . In the distributer.
Add a carpet and sleep in the trunk? Why not add a wet bar and coffee table, perhaps a chandelier? A washer/dryer combo might come in handy too.
As I have learned from he years. Off the factory assembly line stock is a restoration. You up grade modify 1 item you are into Restomod. I think it was up to the 80's I forget when stopped. But passenger mirrors were an upgrade didn't come stock.
Doris everything you said about the motor sounds about right. The most important thing is a spark. Once you figure out the firing order everything else should fall into place. And it was a pretty good idea to dump all the fuel. Because any debris gets in the fuel line it will mess the float up. And I also would put a electronic fuel pump on it. 😎👍🇺🇸🇨🇱🏴☠️
A beautiful lady who is into classic cars is very cool.
The hoses are your power steering hoses, they are supposed to be attached to the power steering pump, it looks like they are attached to the power steering ram. Another item you will want to change, to a power rack and pinion steering system.
Ok we can talk all day (I wish).
Classic Industries has oem style seat covers in your blue, just looked in 5 seconds lol...they will have a million other things you need for interior/exterior.
There are several companies like Classic, including Summit and CJ Pony that have tons of oem style vendors supplying them with everything you need.
The "Mustang" emblems and letters, logos and horses are all available easily.
The trunk... that is surface rust. Use a power sander or wheel and work hard to get it all, especially down in those side pockets, and when you get it sanded and cleaned, then wipe on anti rust corrosion prevention, let it dry, then prime it quickly so rust can't begin to grow again. Your PPG paint supply store knows ALL these methods and has the corrosion prevention liquid.
That fender dent can be knocked out by a decent dentless repair shop, no problem. You can take it off without taking the whole car to them, unless you're gonna have the car painted by others.
Tempted to suggest buying an aftermarket trunk lid...depends on the whole trunk lid rust situation. New ones are $250ish.
Also, all these same types of mega companies have literally every part for Camaros too!
Doris you can new seat covers from Ford Parts keep up the good Content!!!!! Brent Gordon of Canada.😍🤟🐎🌹
You need to prime the oil pump and push oil up to the valves. I would take the valve covers off to make sure you have oil going to the top of the engine before starting. Why because if the oil isn’t pumping oil to the top of the engine you risk damaging the internal parts of the engine especially after 24 years of sitting.
Rust oleum works magic and prevents future rust 😊
69-70 coupe’s are slightly underrated IMO.
Check the timing before starting and check the fuel filter.
Doris everything you want to do is out there. You won’t have any problems, no more then I am trying to focus watching this while you’re in the daisy dukes
Hopefully all works out...🤞...btw the missing letter ....definately gets to me ....thought i was the only one...lol
Love the Ford light blue shirt!
Man i gotta find a shop like this!! Tired of working outside...
Pour a glass of water in the cowl. Make sure it doesn't leak inside the car. Almost every Mustang I've seen leaks there. Can't wait to see your progress once you start tearing into it. I miss my old 66.
Also tempted to suggest a new oem gas tank, then you KNOW you have a clean fuel system after 20 years. Blow out the lines when its apart...and all new fuel hoses.
The trans looks like its been rebuilt.
A lot of work to restore this classic rare Mustang coupe. I mean rare because of parts may or may not be available but the work I saw in the past videos, I say will be rewarding later.
@Woman.Driven let me park my car in your shop 😫 , I need to get some work done myself, and looking to register it in AZ. I’ll pay Lift Space Rent to get the job done.
@Woman.Driven
just pour a little gas in the carburetor and crank it . if starts runs a few seconds, your done with it. don't change all that stuff. you are thrying to start it as cheaply as possible.
She is beautiful I love watching her video with old cars
I would check compression, check spark plugs, clean carb, see what oil looks like and change
This could be the perfect restomod for you! Make it unique!
Fire 🔥
I bought a sbc crate motor instructions said to crank without spark plugs til i got oil press then put plugs in and start it might spray a little wd or something in the cylinders since its sat so long
I would I have the paint shop paint the inside trunk as well, if it’s only surface, They will get rid it as well.
Sweety I am doing over my 69 fastback, love that your doing this one, I adore you your sweet, so yes Wildwood disc all 4 sides, new suspension in rear, front end 1 of 2 ways, do an old school Shelby set up or coilovers, and think about this, a 5 speed transmission, electronic ignition and let her too n tear with you in the seat ! I have 12 Mustang's and have a lot of other kinds but my heart is with a stang and you !
Gotta See That Stang hun. I dig it. Love the nose on those and im definitly a fan of the 72 mach one
The door sagging could be the bushings for the door.
If you ever decide to swap the 302, put in a 351 Cleveland.