If you’re enjoying the content, don’t forget to *hit the like button* on my video ❤. The block is at the shop now getting cleaned and inspected. They suspect the issue with water could have been a misalignment of the head gasket as that was not original to the car and is a common thing to mess up. So water could have easily made its way down. That still doesn’t explain leaves and twigs inside the oil pan 🤔.
Hi Doris! Did you give away parts like tires? On this video did you pick someone to win? I need to know I guess. To see if it's a scam. If you can let me know.
Ford tech here-- look at intake gaskets @ 2:25. Whoever installed intake gaskets screwed up big time. Look at water ports, complete mismatch. No wonder engine is full of coolant 🌊🌊
Just a quick tip.... use that 4 inch long left over piece of 2x4 that everyone who has a garage has somewhere to put against the cylinder head and hit THAT with the hammer so that you are not beating the cast iron (brittle) of the head with the hammer head. THAT'S why guys keep those little pieces of wood forever. ;)
As a retired engine builder, she is doing a good job. My recommendations would be on the next disassembly, when removing the valve train, take the lifters out one at a time to inspect the bottom. That will tell you how the cam is wearing and oil supply. Do the same with each main and rod bearing. See if any are worn uneven, has any scoring or if any dirt invaded. By the looks of the pistons, there may have been a blown head gasket due to overheating. Only having water in number one cylinder tells me it wasn’t due to having the hood off. Looking forward to the rebuild.
Fully agree l wonder who is telling her what to do and say then what she is wearing is all for show she hasn't got the strength to do a thing then you hear her say working with Chris
Im sure you already know this. But the fact that your lifters fell out easily is actually a fairly good sign.Most of the time they stick Your Block looks like it doesn't need much honing. I realize your very financially set. But maybe youl consider hangen on to it. That block is a fairly easy build with EFI. Have a great day
That’s good to know. They did all come out without me having to fish them out. The initial eye check over the block, the shop said it looks good. They’ll clean it up and test so they can confirm. I’ll keep it and make something better if all looks good.
I took one the other way starting with a 1995 roller cam 302 from a scrapyard F-150 I ditched the fuel injection and replaced it with an Edelbrock manifold and carb, also using aftermarket aluminum cylinder heads
All of these old school engines are not only super easy to work on, but 10 times more reliable than anything new when put together right. At 2:50 I can already see that this engine was not maintained very well. Everything is dirty and black, which means the oil was not changed nearly often enough. Since that is a flat tappet engine, I would save the lifters and cam if they are salvageable. Apparently nobody knows how to make new ones anymore. You can use a magnet to remove the lifters and keep them separated so that if you decide to use them they can all go back in the same holes they came out of. I would rotate the engine on the stand so the head you are trying to remove is pointing straight up. Less chance of it falling. Uh, that is not the proper tool for removing a harmonic balancer. Oh jeez, it's raining lifters. There is no way twigs and leaves could get into the crankcase unless the oil pan was left off with the engine outside. Water can get in through the carburetor if there is no air cleaner on it, run down through the intake manifold, through open valves, and seep past the rings and into the crankcase. But not twigs and leaves.
YUUUP! I agree! i bought an old IROC Camaro with an blown 305 cheap and i ordered a cheap ass crate engine from summitt, (CRATE 400) then proceeded to order all the hop up parts, I got around 400HP out of it and drove the snot out of it for years and never skipped a beat! The TPI for the 305 worked well with the 400 All I had to do was order bigger injectors and a LARGE MOUTH intake and a K&N filter and I was golden! Those old engines are so reliable when built correctly!
needs new cam and lifters unless she can figure out where each one came out of different wear on lifters and cam will tear itself up quicker if mismatched later
Not more reliable. Old engines had tons of maintenance and wore out faster due to looser tolerances. These are engineering facts. You can't get more reliable engines than a modern day Honda or Toyota that requires little maintenance.
One word of advice. When removing parts, keep them in order since it can help when analyzing condition of components. Plus you never know what you may have to reuse. You're also using the wrong puller to remove the balancer. Surprised you didn't pull it apart.
All accessories components were separated along with bolts. Anything that rotates was placed in a bin and dropped off at the shop that will do the testing. We’ll see what they come back with.
Doris, you need to keep all those bolts. Clean them all up and put them all away until your project is done. This engine is so old you will never find these bolts if you need them to put everything back together. Good Luck!!
They are all in a bucket. The rest of the bolts were taken to the shop so they can Clean and inspect. The only things I am tossing would be the accessory parts which I already found replacements for.
@@woman.driven Not really a good idea to reuse head bolts, main bearing cap bolts, or connecting rod bolts. You can, but they have already stretched and reusing them means they stretch even more and will be weaker.
@@stansdds They are not reusing the bolts to rebuild. That is just to test things out 😉. Zero old bolts uts (connecting rod has nuts) will be reused for that actual rebuilding process
ARP will sell you a whole set of bolts/studs , whatever you need. With this application they will not likely fail , main , rod and headbolts are a must to replace. Get a good repairanual and a how to hotrod your small block Ford manual. These have good tips and tricks that will really help you. Also , a very knowledgeable friend is good as well.
@@seanomalley5797will if it's an LS engine you have to take the heads off the replace the lifters and if it's a conventional small block Ford Chevrolet or Dodge you got to take the intake manifold off to replace the lifters so either way it's not a simple easy job...
Great job! Am I detecting a Miami accent; what a cutie. Btw a dead blow mallot or brass hammer is best for striking parts without damaging them. The 302 being cast iron is more resilient than a modern aluminum block but damage may still occur. Just best to be safe with an engine that has limited parts availability.
I agree with you, using a gear puller to pull out a harmonic dampener is a real pian I have done it in the past but a dedicated harmonic dampener puller does work better.
Yeah, I was going to mention that. I haven't turned wrenches in 30 years but I still have my "harbor freight" dedicated damper puller in my 40 year old craftsman tool chest that's mostly just decorating my garage. Watching her take off the water pump brought back nightmares of my timing chain repair on a '70 Torino's 302. I eventually switched to Chevy because the parts were just sooo much cheaper.
The "battery looking thing" are solid lifters.. The numbers that are hammered into the castings means that it was rebuilt at least once before. You may want to clean up a few of the pistons, and see if numbers like 40 or 60 are stamped into them, as that would indicate how much oversized that they are. The block may not be able to be bored out any thing further than where it is without the use of sleeves.. But, it is a great learning lesson to do this on an old school block, and since ford and dodge both position the distributors up front, it'll be easier to learn how to do initial timing, and then use a dial-back timing light to set your full timing. The water + leaves is likely the engine sitting without a carb on the manifold for quite some time, and at the very least one pretty massive storm happened during that time.
100% agree, once she tosses them out she will never know if the replacements are right or not! Anyway, who throws away old bolts! LOL, I have decades worth saved in coffee cans!
So cool to see you're not just a pretty face, you're very knowledgeable about what's needed to tear down an engine. Brings back memories of when I used to do that...
I rebuilt two 289 ford engines in my former 1965 Mustang Fastback in the 1980's, and a 302 Mexican Block with thicker main caps in the 2005 in my former 1966 Mustang Fastback, make sure you tap out the oil galley plugs for thread in plugs, I blew one out in my 289 engine with a Mellings high pressure oil pump when I over revved the engine doing a burn out, and ruined the engine by throwing a rod through the block because I ignored the ticking sound of low oil pressure and still drove the car home. Also removing the head bolts does not require that you use a cross pattern.
Being an old Mechanic there is nothing that would have stopped you from starting it. Carburetor / Fuel system or Ignition was the issue. That is probably a good block. But a Coyote engine swap would be good also.
Doris, always a delight watching you indulge in grunge as you pursue your passion for your automobiles. Untold amazement that the parts & pieces of the ICE can be fitted & synced to produce an efficient operating assembly. Glad that you are trying to save the block & heads. Hope you receive good reports back on them. Poor Mustang was maltreated by its previous owners.
Great tear down video. It would be a great benefit for many to research the differences between pushrod and overhead cam engines and see there benefits and weaknesses.
An excellent way to fully clean your cylinder block inside and out is to first fully disassemble . Then pop out all the old frost plugs . Then , send the bare block out to a shop that does "Ultra Sonic Cleaning" . This will remove all the old scale/rust from the cooling system and remove all the old oil that has congealed inside the lubrication system passageways . I really think that you'd really like the results ! Liked your video !
Well no stuck lifters. But the block needs some work. Good job so far. I did chuckle at the batteries falling out. New name for lifters now. Nice too see you learn as you go. Good luck
Those are not batteries, they are the hydraulic valve lifters. Those are not pulleys inside the timing cover, they are timing chain sprockets. Keep up the good work and continue learning. Such a lovely lady!
Definitely looks like it’s going to be a clean rebuild, hopefully the machine shop finds that cylinders are not oval. Exited to see what they do to it!
Looks like wrong intake gaskets, Sbf.s have 2 different intake gaskets, ..how do i kmow? Made that mistake ! Also Sbc. Have a different gasket for fuel injected intakes, because they run hot water through the bottom of the intake to heat the manifold, old school engines ran exhaust heat through them. Hope this helps
good for you and great work on the engine - 1st off the little batteries are called "lifters" 2nd never use a three finger puller on a harmonic balancer "it has a rubber ring" between the inside and outside , and it can be damaged or knocked out of balance 3rd note: to use a washer on the end of the puller to keep it from going into the threaded bolt hole and causing damage or getting stuck , the puller is called a harmonic balancer puller and it will bolt to the balancer in the same holes that the pulley was bolted - it can still get stuck in the center bolt hole if your not careful
Don't forget to have the crankshaft checked! You can rough check it with calipers and feel the journals. Look at the bearings. That's likely a rebuilt engine, so the crank journals could be undersized as well as the cylinders being bored oversize. Go ahead and put a new set of cam bearings in the block if you re-use it. Please have the block and the heads checked for cracks. Especially after hitting the heads with a hammer. Use a dead blow hammer to break the heads loose next time. Keep up the great videos! I subscribed today!
Great video, Doris. Those "battery" looking things are actually the hydraulic lifters for the camshaft. They're common in pushrod engines. I was surprised that I didn't see a blown head gasket. But, as you mentioned, the head gasket(s) may have been incorrectly installed. Best of luck on this rebuild. You know I'll be watching every episode.
lol.. they caught me by surprise as I wasn’t expecting that. Didn’t know a push rod had something hidden for me to find out lol. I won’t make that mistake twice when I take apart the 355 :)
Don't worry about throwing the lifters away, they are worn out. The heads can be re done alone with the crank and block. You needed to number the main caps because they need to go back in the right order. The rod should be ok also, the machine shop can freshen them up. A new cam should come with new lifters and keep a few push rods so you get the right length. On the subject of cam you want to get roller rocker, roller lifters and a roller cam. Then you can use any modern oil otherwise you will have to buy a high zinc oil to prevent cam failure. Good luck
The water in the engine was from the hood being off, as you mentioned. Rain water thru the carburetor, donw into the #1 cylinder, then rust. As far as the milky oil, probably intake or head gasket failure. Part of disassembly needs to be inspection process along the way to determine what is bad or what happened with an engine to determine if special attention needs to be paid to the block deck or heads for cracks or other issues. Please gain some knowledge on what the parts are called and get yourself a proper balancer puller. That one can pull the outer ring off or dislodge it causing a whole heap of other problems. The reason that balancer puller also stuck in the end of the cranksaft was you didn't leave the bolt in place to press against, possibly damaging the inside of the snout or the bolt threads.
When rebuilding the engine, don't cheap out on the harmonic balancer. Run a Ford Racing balancer. They are SFI approved and machined for 3 or 4 bolt lower pulley. Probably uses a 28.2 oz balancer, if its an early block. All ARP bolts too.
The pistons are reusable if you're not boring the cylinders or wanting to upgrade them. They just need the carbon buildup cleaned off (soak in a bucket of diesel for a few days and wire brush the tops with a drill)
I never re=use stock pistons ever. It's nice that the lifters just fell out and were not rusted or varnished in. If you are using the block and heads, have them hot tanked and magnafluxed for cracks then see where you want to go with it from there. I have no idea how the leaves and pine needles got down in the pan, mice can't even do that.
That’s the word.. magnafluxed. I couldn’t think of it when they said that is what they’ll do to test. They also mentioned they don’t think water made it past the oil pan as the rest of everything was oiled and looked good.
You can bore out that Windsor 40 tho Doris, so the block will be fine either way, I’d go that route and a competition cam, throw in a 600 Holley and a few other litre tricks and you have a bullet proof motor with a few extra horses from stock, just my thoughts.
I agree with the other posters, I Suspected a blown head gasket too. I definitely believe you are making the best decision on a clean rebuild with all new parts also. I was laughing while you tore down the engine because that's exactly how I would have done it...... I don't give a S### about those old parts. Great job and I love your videos!
These classic engines are indeed easy to work on. And even easier if one knows how and what tools to use and what parts to reuse! Still surprised after these many decades when people don't use a bolt in the crankshafts to push against when removing the harmonic balancers to prevent from damaging the crankshaft threads. And those cast-iron valve rockers will work up to an easy 6K rpms in race cars around the country as we did in our stock cars. At this rate i can see in 50 more years many of the standard classic car parts will be gone.
When you take the block and heads,go ahead and take everything else.That way they can check the crank and rods to see if they are still good.From the way you described it,I would say it was left outside without the hood,and probably no air cleaner.That would explain how the twigs and leaves go in there.
Everything that will need to be bolted back on the block was taken to them along with bolts/nuts :). They won’t be reused, but they will use it for testing as you stated.
You don't get twigs and leaves in the crankcase by leaving the hood and air cleaner off. It was probably a blown head gasket putting water in the crank, then someone pulled it apart to try and fix it and left it open to get all the other crap in there.
It should just be a head gasket problem were it could have been over torqued or miss aligned that it could seal them right to keep the oil in it's passages, antifreeze in there's. But it missing a hood didn't do it any favors either. Unless the block is cracked or has been bored for the final time it's worth fixing especially if the engine matches the car for it's age.
I heard you mention water in the trans as well. The only ways water can get in the trans are to sink the car in a lake or the radiator trans cooler is leaking and high pressure water in radiator made its way into the trans cooler. If so, you will be building the trans as well. Have the radiator checked. Twigs and sticks sounds more like the car was sunk...I haven't listened to the whole video yet, 330 in the morning, maybe you touched on that point.
Hi Doris, I noticed the 68 Camaro in the background completely stripped down. Do you have little elves coming in the middle of the night helping you? I think you should put in a brand new Coyote engine with a Whipple Super Charger into the Mustang.
Haha.. all that work is on a future video I have yet to post lol. I will keep the same block IF it can be saved. If not.. time to think of a plan with a new engine lol
If the car had no hood the motor could easily get water in oil. If the transmission dipstick was in I don’t see water leaking in the transmission unless the transmission cooler in the radiator ruptured. If the motor ran and water was in the oil likely causes cracked block head gasket intake gasket or cracked head.
I don’t think it’s that bad myself. I think your shop will come back with tank it, polish the cylinders or bore them out if you want to go bigger. The crank maybe another story if it was run starved for oil may have scoring on the journals. I don’t think it was run with all the garbage in there. I think someone blew a head gasket started repairing and left it open and that’s the junk getting in. You did fine on tear down. Look great too
I agree with you about your Milwaukee impact... they are heavy, but definitely a brute of a tool. My poor pneumatic impact only comes out of the tool box when the Milwaukee is to big to fit into tight spaces.
Those battery looking things are called lifters, they move the push rods up and down in turn making the rocker arms open and close the valves. The problem with the engine is most likely a busted head gasket or a cracked head. Check those 2 things first.
For sure those battery things are lifters, what you will find out with the block & heads, on what you would put into that motor, a crate motor might be the best option, have it what size motor and what horsepower you want it.
those battery looking things are lifters and fyi maybe next time drain the oil before you flip it and remove lifters before turning it over and if you ever decide to reuse a cam u better make note of the lifter locations because you cannot change locations of lifters the cam wears on them a certain way .but all in all u did a great job
Think what you want to build.Rebuild what u want.Its not cheap.Easy is go with a crate. Crate can be more power drop I ins. It cost alot rebuilding to what u want.Parts a b availability brings cost up.
Awesome to see someone not afraid to tear into an engine! Bonus that you are female! Love chikchanics! You did a great job and learned along the way (I’m a certified aircraft mechanic and that is how you learn…tear it up!)
Those "batteries" are hydraulic lifters and the tubes are push rods. You can reuse the block just take it to a machine shop and have it bored over . They will clean it up for you and assemble for you. You can always buy better aluminium heads. Or you can just buy a crate engine thats ready to go and install thats always the easiest.
They are checking the block but they did say from the look it is, looks good but they’ll know for certain when they clean and test. They also mentioned aluminum heads over the current ones. So we’ll see what they come back with.
Dont just toss the oem bolts, they are usually better grade then some stuff you may get today. Id try to save that 302. Especially if it is from 1968! Good job looks like you are learning everytime working on this
@@woman.driven good. Make sure you keep all the crank main caps in correct order and orientation. If not it will need to be line bored on the crank mains
That the wrong puller for balance. That one you use will hurt the balance ring that mounted with rubber to the inside part. Seen the ring come off or move and affect timing. Use a puller that bolts to balancer where the pulley is bolted.
If you’re enjoying the content, don’t forget to *hit the like button* on my video ❤.
The block is at the shop now getting cleaned and inspected. They suspect the issue with water could have been a misalignment of the head gasket as that was not original to the car and is a common thing to mess up. So water could have easily made its way down.
That still doesn’t explain leaves and twigs inside the oil pan 🤔.
You did say it sat outside without the hood . That's where all the water and other dabree can from
Hi❤
Hi Doris! Did you give away parts like tires? On this video did you pick someone to win? I need to know I guess. To see if it's a scam. If you can let me know.
Only way to get water in the tranny would be flood... or left in the rain with the dipstick out and the hood off.
That is strange, I'd love to know how if you figure it out. OF, oh my hell, god bless America, lol.
Ford tech here-- look at intake gaskets @ 2:25. Whoever installed intake gaskets screwed up big time. Look at water ports, complete mismatch. No wonder engine is full of coolant 🌊🌊
Good catch!
Good catch, what about Leaves and Twigs. ?😃
Just a quick tip.... use that 4 inch long left over piece of 2x4 that everyone who has a garage has somewhere to put against the cylinder head and hit THAT with the hammer so that you are not beating the cast iron (brittle) of the head with the hammer head. THAT'S why guys keep those little pieces of wood forever. ;)
Great catch! I cringed when I saw a mini sledge in her hand and not a dead blow hammer!
As a retired engine builder, she is doing a good job. My recommendations would be on the next disassembly, when removing the valve train, take the lifters out one at a time to inspect the bottom. That will tell you how the cam is wearing and oil supply. Do the same with each main and rod bearing. See if any are worn uneven, has any scoring or if any dirt invaded. By the looks of the pistons, there may have been a blown head gasket due to overheating. Only having water in number one cylinder tells me it wasn’t due to having the hood off. Looking forward to the rebuild.
I don’t even care that she doesn’t know what’s she’s doing. She looks good doing it😊
We all started somewhere..lol
She kiiiinda knows a bit about what she's doing... but the lifter 'batteries' is somewhat priceless!
Fully agree l wonder who is telling her what to do and say then what she is wearing is all for show she hasn't got the strength to do a thing then you hear her say working with Chris
😂😂😂😂
highly debatable. could stomach the repairs, but she's got to cover the dimples.
Your doing something a lot of ladies would never try or have an opportunity to do so. Keep going!
Im sure you already know this. But the fact that your lifters fell out easily is actually a fairly good sign.Most of the time they stick Your Block looks like it doesn't need much honing. I realize your very financially set. But maybe youl consider hangen on to it. That block is a fairly easy build with EFI. Have a great day
That’s good to know. They did all come out without me having to fish them out. The initial eye check over the block, the shop said it looks good. They’ll clean it up and test so they can confirm. I’ll keep it and make something better if all looks good.
@@woman.drivenThats Great😃😃😃 im happy ta hear everything is goin well. CARS ARE AWESOME. ITS A FORD-FIRST ON RACE DAY❤
I took one the other way starting with a 1995 roller cam 302 from a scrapyard F-150
I ditched the fuel injection and replaced it with an Edelbrock manifold and carb, also using aftermarket aluminum cylinder heads
All of these old school engines are not only super easy to work on, but 10 times more reliable than anything new when put together right. At 2:50 I can already see that this engine was not maintained very well. Everything is dirty and black, which means the oil was not changed nearly often enough. Since that is a flat tappet engine, I would save the lifters and cam if they are salvageable. Apparently nobody knows how to make new ones anymore. You can use a magnet to remove the lifters and keep them separated so that if you decide to use them they can all go back in the same holes they came out of. I would rotate the engine on the stand so the head you are trying to remove is pointing straight up. Less chance of it falling. Uh, that is not the proper tool for removing a harmonic balancer. Oh jeez, it's raining lifters. There is no way twigs and leaves could get into the crankcase unless the oil pan was left off with the engine outside. Water can get in through the carburetor if there is no air cleaner on it, run down through the intake manifold, through open valves, and seep past the rings and into the crankcase. But not twigs and leaves.
YUUUP! I agree! i bought an old IROC Camaro with an blown 305 cheap and i ordered a cheap ass crate engine from summitt, (CRATE 400) then proceeded to order all the hop up parts, I got around 400HP out of it and drove the snot out of it for years and never skipped a beat! The TPI for the 305 worked well with the 400 All I had to do was order bigger injectors and a LARGE MOUTH intake and a K&N filter and I was golden! Those old engines are so reliable when built correctly!
needs new cam and lifters unless she can figure out where each one came out of different wear on lifters and cam will tear itself up quicker if mismatched later
She let the lifters fall on to the concrete floor she flipped the engine 😂
Not more reliable. Old engines had tons of maintenance and wore out faster due to looser tolerances. These are engineering facts. You can't get more reliable engines than a modern day Honda or Toyota that requires little maintenance.
One word of advice. When removing parts, keep them in order since it can help when analyzing condition of components. Plus you never know what you may have to reuse.
You're also using the wrong puller to remove the balancer. Surprised you didn't pull it apart.
All accessories components were separated along with bolts. Anything that rotates was placed in a bin and dropped off at the shop that will do the testing. We’ll see what they come back with.
gear pullers are a great way to take off your harmonic balancer in 2 pieces if you don't need to use it again
Yes,You're right, it's called.Use the proper tool for the proper job Harmonic Balancer puller
Doris, you need to keep all those bolts. Clean them all up and put them all away until your project is done. This engine is so old you will never find these bolts if you need them to put everything back together.
Good Luck!!
I don't think Doris really knows what she's doing because she called the hydraulic lifters batteries😮
They are all in a bucket. The rest of the bolts were taken to the shop so they can Clean and inspect. The only things I am tossing would be the accessory parts which I already found replacements for.
@@woman.driven Good Job 👍🏼👍🏼
@@woman.driven Not really a good idea to reuse head bolts, main bearing cap bolts, or connecting rod bolts. You can, but they have already stretched and reusing them means they stretch even more and will be weaker.
@@stansdds They are not reusing the bolts to rebuild. That is just to test things out 😉. Zero old bolts
uts (connecting rod has nuts) will be reused for that actual rebuilding process
ARP will sell you a whole set of bolts/studs , whatever you need. With this application they will not likely fail , main , rod and headbolts are a must to replace. Get a good repairanual and a how to hotrod your small block Ford manual. These have good tips and tricks that will really help you. Also , a very knowledgeable friend is good as well.
Those battery looking things are lifters. You did a great job tearing down the engine.💪
Thank you 👍 first time taking apart a push rod engine so things were a learning session for me. I’ll know now for the next one (Camaro)
Lifters are usually on top right not to difficult to replace am I correct
Use a stick magnet next time to remove the lifters
@@seanomalley5797will if it's an LS engine you have to take the heads off the replace the lifters and if it's a conventional small block Ford Chevrolet or Dodge you got to take the intake manifold off to replace the lifters so either way it's not a simple easy job...
@@VATION3RD-GEN-X-GARAGE LS engines SUCK.
Great job! Am I detecting a Miami accent; what a cutie. Btw a dead blow mallot or brass hammer is best for striking parts without damaging them. The 302 being cast iron is more resilient than a modern aluminum block but damage may still occur. Just best to be safe with an engine that has limited parts availability.
Hispanic accent.
I detect a Miami accent too. Specially here. 10:23
I agree with you, using a gear puller to pull out a harmonic dampener is a real pian I have done it in the past but a dedicated harmonic dampener puller does work better.
Yeah, I was going to mention that. I haven't turned wrenches in 30 years but I still have my "harbor freight" dedicated damper puller in my 40 year old craftsman tool chest that's mostly just decorating my garage. Watching her take off the water pump brought back nightmares of my timing chain repair on a '70 Torino's 302. I eventually switched to Chevy because the parts were just sooo much cheaper.
The "battery looking thing" are solid lifters.. The numbers that are hammered into the castings means that it was rebuilt at least once before. You may want to clean up a few of the pistons, and see if numbers like 40 or 60 are stamped into them, as that would indicate how much oversized that they are. The block may not be able to be bored out any thing further than where it is without the use of sleeves..
But, it is a great learning lesson to do this on an old school block, and since ford and dodge both position the distributors up front, it'll be easier to learn how to do initial timing, and then use a dial-back timing light to set your full timing.
The water + leaves is likely the engine sitting without a carb on the manifold for quite some time, and at the very least one pretty massive storm happened during that time.
You may want to keep all the hardware certain bolts are special sometimes. Unless they're trashed
100% agree, once she tosses them out she will never know if the replacements are right or not!
Anyway, who throws away old bolts! LOL, I have decades worth saved in coffee cans!
Hydraulic lifters are what fell out of the block. When filled with oil those ride the cam and help open the valves.
Be sure to use Duracell batteries when you put it back together
So cool to see you're not just a pretty face, you're very knowledgeable about what's needed to tear down an engine. Brings back memories of when I used to do that...
I rebuilt two 289 ford engines in my former 1965 Mustang Fastback in the 1980's, and a 302 Mexican Block with thicker main caps in the 2005 in my former 1966 Mustang Fastback, make sure you tap out the oil galley plugs for thread in plugs, I blew one out in my 289 engine with a Mellings high pressure oil pump when I over revved the engine doing a burn out, and ruined the engine by throwing a rod through the block because I ignored the ticking sound of low oil pressure and still drove the car home. Also removing the head bolts does not require that you use a cross pattern.
Being an old Mechanic there is nothing that would have stopped you from starting it. Carburetor / Fuel system or Ignition was the issue. That is probably a good block. But a Coyote engine swap would be good also.
Doris, always a delight watching you indulge in grunge as you pursue your passion for your automobiles. Untold amazement that the parts & pieces of the ICE can be fitted & synced to produce an efficient operating assembly. Glad that you are trying to save the block & heads. Hope you receive good reports back on them. Poor Mustang was maltreated by its previous owners.
Use a harmonic balancer puller instead of the puller you used
Obviously her boyfriend doesn’t own one yet.
Kitty litter is cheaper than the mattes love ❤
The engine I tore down was Ford 260 out of a 64 falcon sprint when I was 16 . About 100 years ago.
6:20 Use a steering wheel puller on the balancer. 7:21 Those are camshaft lifters.
Don’t forget a “shaft saver” if you use a three claw puller to save your crank shaft threads…
Great tear down video. It would be a great benefit for many to research the differences between pushrod and overhead cam engines and see there benefits and weaknesses.
Agree, the old motors are easy to work on, also easy to get horsepower from, a lot comes down to cylinder head flow, it's a good start!
An excellent way to fully clean your cylinder block inside and out is to first fully disassemble . Then pop out all the old frost plugs . Then , send the bare block out to a shop that does "Ultra Sonic Cleaning" . This will remove all the old scale/rust from the cooling system and remove all the old oil that has congealed inside the lubrication system passageways . I really think that you'd really like the results ! Liked your video !
Dude i love cars! That was a great Great learning lesson can't really say I've seen an engine torn down like that before that was cool
It’s always fun when I can learn something new and oh boy did I learn with push rods. Excited to take the next one apart!
Well no stuck lifters. But the block needs some work. Good job so far. I did chuckle at the batteries falling out. New name for lifters now. Nice too see you learn as you go. Good luck
Those are not batteries, they are the hydraulic valve lifters. Those are not pulleys inside the timing cover, they are timing chain sprockets. Keep up the good work and continue learning. Such a lovely lady!
If the gaskets were put on wrong it will ruin the engine. It happened to me one time 16 years ago and I had the engine rebuilt.
Was your intake off, outside? Did your engine get rained on? That could explain the trash inside,? 😮
Definitely looks like it’s going to be a clean rebuild, hopefully the machine shop finds that cylinders are not oval. Exited to see what they do to it!
Shouldn’t use that type of puller on the balancer. It can separate the two pieces of that type of balancer.
Looks like wrong intake gaskets, Sbf.s have 2 different intake gaskets, ..how do i kmow? Made that mistake ! Also Sbc. Have a different gasket for fuel injected intakes, because they run hot water through the bottom of the intake to heat the manifold, old school engines ran exhaust heat through them. Hope this helps
good for you and great work on the engine - 1st off the little batteries are called "lifters" 2nd never use a three finger puller on a harmonic balancer "it has a rubber ring" between the inside and outside , and it can be damaged or knocked out of balance 3rd note: to use a washer on the end of the puller to keep it from going into the threaded bolt hole and causing damage or getting stuck , the puller is called a harmonic balancer puller and it will bolt to the balancer in the same holes that the pulley was bolted - it can still get stuck in the center bolt hole if your not careful
I know what lifters are and ive never taken apart a V8 motor, although you are very entertaining and love your voice
I think that motor is done/ replace W/ a "swap" Coyote IMO ? 🤠 You should be able to find a wrecked 5.0 to pull out & replace!
Don't forget to have the crankshaft checked! You can rough check it with calipers and feel the journals. Look at the bearings. That's likely a rebuilt engine, so the crank journals could be undersized as well as the cylinders being bored oversize. Go ahead and put a new set of cam bearings in the block if you re-use it. Please have the block and the heads checked for cracks. Especially after hitting the heads with a hammer. Use a dead blow hammer to break the heads loose next time. Keep up the great videos! I subscribed today!
It’s is amazing how clean you are working on that engine I can’t do that.
no real mechanic can
Great video, Doris. Those "battery" looking things are actually the hydraulic lifters for the camshaft. They're common in pushrod engines. I was surprised that I didn't see a blown head gasket. But, as you mentioned, the head gasket(s) may have been incorrectly installed. Best of luck on this rebuild. You know I'll be watching every episode.
lol.. they caught me by surprise as I wasn’t expecting that. Didn’t know a push rod had something hidden for me to find out lol. I won’t make that mistake twice when I take apart the 355 :)
Don't worry about throwing the lifters away, they are worn out. The heads can be re done alone with the crank and block. You needed to number the main caps because they need to go back in the right order. The rod should be ok also, the machine shop can freshen them up. A new cam should come with new lifters and keep a few push rods so you get the right length. On the subject of cam you want to get roller rocker, roller lifters and a roller cam. Then you can use any modern oil otherwise you will have to buy a high zinc oil to prevent cam failure. Good luck
i study automotive during highschool since its mandatory. now time to go back and learn it again.
The water in the engine was from the hood being off, as you mentioned. Rain water thru the carburetor, donw into the #1 cylinder, then rust. As far as the milky oil, probably intake or head gasket failure. Part of disassembly needs to be inspection process along the way to determine what is bad or what happened with an engine to determine if special attention needs to be paid to the block deck or heads for cracks or other issues. Please gain some knowledge on what the parts are called and get yourself a proper balancer puller. That one can pull the outer ring off or dislodge it causing a whole heap of other problems. The reason that balancer puller also stuck in the end of the cranksaft was you didn't leave the bolt in place to press against, possibly damaging the inside of the snout or the bolt threads.
When rebuilding the engine, don't cheap out on the harmonic balancer. Run a Ford Racing balancer. They are SFI approved and machined for 3 or 4 bolt lower pulley. Probably uses a 28.2 oz balancer, if its an early block. All ARP bolts too.
That engine doesn't look that bad at all . Don't throw away anything from that engine. Pm if you want to get rid of those parts
The pistons are reusable if you're not boring the cylinders or wanting to upgrade them. They just need the carbon buildup cleaned off (soak in a bucket of diesel for a few days and wire brush the tops with a drill)
After you take off the head bolts a hard rubber mallet works great to take off the heads
I never re=use stock pistons ever. It's nice that the lifters just fell out and were not rusted or varnished in. If you are using the block and heads, have them hot tanked and magnafluxed for cracks then see where you want to go with it from there. I have no idea how the leaves and pine needles got down in the pan, mice can't even do that.
That’s the word.. magnafluxed. I couldn’t think of it when they said that is what they’ll do to test. They also mentioned they don’t think water made it past the oil pan as the rest of everything was oiled and looked good.
I remember the first time I said, “I’m just gonna throw away all these bolts” when doing a Windsor front cover and water pump…
@Woman.driven8 An YOU can fuck off with your FAKE account Telegram messaging BS.
Doris these videos are so much fun to watch
Cant wait to see what machine shop says and the rebuild...!!!
Thank you! Glad you’re enjoying it. We’ll wait and see 😊
Why am I the only one who noticed she doesn't have steel "toe" boots.
I saw some kind of toes ..and it werend boots 😂
@@mule666 flip flops work well in most u tube videos
Taking apart an engine is one thing but putting it back together is another.
You can bore out that Windsor 40 tho Doris, so the block will be fine either way, I’d go that route and a competition cam, throw in a 600 Holley and a few other litre tricks and you have a bullet proof motor with a few extra horses from stock, just my thoughts.
Sounds like a good plan. Wasn’t planning to keep it stock 😊
I agree with the other posters, I Suspected a blown head gasket too. I definitely believe you are making the best decision on a clean rebuild with all new parts also. I was laughing while you tore down the engine because that's exactly how I would have done it...... I don't give a S### about those old parts. Great job and I love your videos!
wrong intake gaskets
For any good info on 5.0
Sn95forums is were you can get it
These classic engines are indeed easy to work on. And even easier if one knows how and what tools to use and what parts to reuse! Still surprised after these many decades when people don't use a bolt in the crankshafts to push against when removing the harmonic balancers to prevent from damaging the crankshaft threads. And those cast-iron valve rockers will work up to an easy 6K rpms in race cars around the country as we did in our stock cars. At this rate i can see in 50 more years many of the standard classic car parts will be gone.
When you take the block and heads,go ahead and take everything else.That way they can check the crank and rods to see if they are still good.From the way you described it,I would say it was left outside without the hood,and probably no air cleaner.That would explain how the twigs and leaves go in there.
Everything that will need to be bolted back on the block was taken to them along with bolts/nuts :). They won’t be reused, but they will use it for testing as you stated.
You don't get twigs and leaves in the crankcase by leaving the hood and air cleaner off. It was probably a blown head gasket putting water in the crank, then someone pulled it apart to try and fix it and left it open to get all the other crap in there.
It should just be a head gasket problem were it could have been over torqued or miss aligned that it could seal them right to keep the oil in it's passages, antifreeze in there's. But it missing a hood didn't do it any favors either. Unless the block is cracked or has been bored for the final time it's worth fixing especially if the engine matches the car for it's age.
Great video and great tutorial but @11:45 I could not keep a clean mind. Went from learning to wishing, LoL...Stay blessed
I heard you mention water in the trans as well. The only ways water can get in the trans are to sink the car in a lake or the radiator trans cooler is leaking and high pressure water in radiator made its way into the trans cooler. If so, you will be building the trans as well. Have the radiator checked. Twigs and sticks sounds more like the car was sunk...I haven't listened to the whole video yet, 330 in the morning, maybe you touched on that point.
Hi Doris, I noticed the 68 Camaro in the background completely stripped down. Do you have little elves coming in the middle of the night helping you?
I think you should put in a brand new Coyote engine with a Whipple Super Charger into the Mustang.
Haha.. all that work is on a future video I have yet to post lol. I will keep the same block IF it can be saved. If not.. time to think of a plan with a new engine lol
Get a harmonic balancer removal kit that uses bolts and a tri plate
If the car had no hood the motor could easily get water in oil. If the transmission dipstick was in I don’t see water leaking in the transmission unless the transmission cooler in the radiator ruptured. If the motor ran and water was in the oil likely causes cracked block head gasket intake gasket or cracked head.
Those battery looking things are called lifters
I know now lol. A step I completely missed when removing the rocker arms and push rods. Lessons learned 😊.
There’s a camel toe in them there britches 😮
I don’t think it’s that bad myself. I think your shop will come back with tank it, polish the cylinders or bore them out if you want to go bigger. The crank maybe another story if it was run starved for oil may have scoring on the journals. I don’t think it was run with all the garbage in there. I think someone blew a head gasket started repairing and left it open and that’s the junk getting in. You did fine on tear down. Look great too
It’s falling off so violently 😂 Love your videos!
They make a smaller Milwaukee impact driver with the same torque. 2024 version.
Put in a 351 Cleveland in it.
Nah! It needs a BOSS 302 engine in it.
Put a 170 cube 6 in it
@@hudsondonnell444 I'd still prefer the 351C.
Try finding one. Those engines have dried up only being made from 1970-74
Put a Chrysler HEMI in it and actually win some races!
I agree with you about your Milwaukee impact... they are heavy, but definitely a brute of a tool. My poor pneumatic impact only comes out of the tool box when the Milwaukee is to big to fit into tight spaces.
Haha.. tell me about it. I have two pneumatics and they are collecting dust lol.
❤@@woman.driven
Excellent video absolutely tearing down that motor ❤
Behind every great woman is an even greater man. I’m sure he’s explained to her that you need those batteries to operate the valves..😝
My tally whacker would love to stand behind her lol! 😆😋😜
Water or antifreeze in the block?
Those battery looking things are called lifters, they move the push rods up and down in turn making the rocker arms open and close the valves. The problem with the engine is most likely a busted head gasket or a cracked head. Check those 2 things first.
For sure those battery things are lifters, what you will find out with the block & heads, on what you would
put into that motor, a crate motor might be the best option, have it what size motor and what horsepower
you want it.
those battery looking things are lifters and fyi maybe next time drain the oil before you flip it and remove lifters before turning it over and if you ever decide to reuse a cam u better make note of the lifter locations because you cannot change locations of lifters the cam wears on them a certain way .but all in all u did a great job
When there's water in the oil pan, it's usually head gaskets.
One of the suspicions of the shop. That is the first thing they said
Especially if the oil looks like a milkshake.
@@woman.driven you have the wrong intake gaskets--water passages were not sealed
Whenever you pull a head there’s water in your pan doofus.
Everything is so slippery.....Fuck!
I KNOW, I CAN'T STAND IT !!!!! 😆
It isn’t always the size of the pry bar but how had you hammer it.
Think what you want to build.Rebuild what u want.Its not cheap.Easy is go with a crate.
Crate can be more power drop I ins.
It cost alot rebuilding to what u want.Parts a b availability brings cost up.
I always enjoy watching you work laughing all the way through especially when the "batteries" started to fall out you are the greatest.
Glad you enjoyed. Just working my way through learning this engine with mistakes along the way lol
If you're rebuilding, port & polish the block while also getting aluminum heads. Personally, I prefer hydraulic lifters
Awesome to see someone not afraid to tear into an engine! Bonus that you are female! Love chikchanics! You did a great job and learned along the way (I’m a certified aircraft mechanic and that is how you learn…tear it up!)
The intake manifold has water galleys too. It should be hard to remove the intake or water will get in the oil.
wrong intake gaskets is the problem
@@markr478 Ah, thanks for the update, I was just remembering what happened to me and my first 72 charger and how I ruined the stock 318 it came with.
Those "batteries" are hydraulic lifters and the tubes are push rods. You can reuse the block just take it to a machine shop and have it bored over . They will clean it up for you and assemble for you. You can always buy better aluminium heads. Or you can just buy a crate engine thats ready to go and install thats always the easiest.
They are checking the block but they did say from the look it is, looks good but they’ll know for certain when they clean and test. They also mentioned aluminum heads over the current ones. So we’ll see what they come back with.
Water in the trans? I'm proud of you for this !
Dont just toss the oem bolts, they are usually better grade then some stuff you may get today. Id try to save that 302. Especially if it is from 1968! Good job looks like you are learning everytime working on this
Nothing is tossed yet :).. all in a bucket. The block I hope is fine, so if it is.. it will absolutely will be reused.
@@woman.driven good. Make sure you keep all the crank main caps in correct order and orientation. If not it will need to be line bored on the crank mains
FYI, you don't need to remove the water pump from the timing cover, to get the timing cover off.
Nice job! Hollar for some 302 ford tips and tricks, cam, piston selection etc. Done a bunch of them..Thanks
It may not stay a 302 😉
@@woman.driven I would 331 stroke it..
Hopefully you will be able to reuse the block. Awesome video. 🙂🙂
That's the plan! Assuming it's all good.
@@woman.driven With luck it will be.
It looks like the rear water jackets on the block were plugged up you probably had a bad head gasket on cylinder one. Good luck.
Great work thanks for sharing this , sorry they left it outside with the hood off.
You gonna need those batteries looking things for the flux capacitor 😂
Yes. How else did she think she could generate the 1.21 gigawatts needed?
Ford blue, I love fords back on day those engine were not to bad to take out of your car or truck No computer stuff
What's size engine came in the 1969 mustang
That the wrong puller for balance. That one you use will hurt the balance ring that mounted with rubber to the inside part. Seen the ring come off or move and affect timing. Use a puller that bolts to balancer where the pulley is bolted.
lol OMG get some swivels and put the 12" extensions down!! great video!