My plain end clamps quit holding my plain end blades. I had a Central Machinery from HF. Dont bother wasting the $100 . I got a 22" Bauer from HF for a Christmas gift. I absolutely love it. No more fidgeting with those hokey clamps trying to figure out exactly where to put the blade. Loving it. Frett work is soooo much faster🎉
GREAT TIP, THANK YOU!!! I have this particular scroll saw and that tip will come in extremely handy as for whatever reason I like using the pinless blades more that the Pin-in Blades. Again thank you for the tip!!!😊
Hi James I recently Bought my Scroll saw similar to the Wen & same blade attachments blocks. I have made various mods to my machine added led's into clear plastic guard supplied by my 12 volt drill battery attached to main arm but more to your video, your idea works but I think what I've done will help further. No need for cardboard, peg or removing the plastic insert. Just replace the metal spacer in the bottom clip bracket with a 15mm diameter round magnet with a hole in the center & a washer as spacer/shim to replace metal spacer. My allen key is also handy on a magnet stuck on side edge of the table. My bottom blade holder stays well & truly in place while doing inside cutting changes. I hope this will help other scrollers.
Thank you thank you thank you!!!!!...Such a simple tip that solves a problem that was making me scratch my head. Lol.your instructions were very precise and clear. ..Thank you for sharing.
Very good tip and wish I'd seen this years back when I had a scroll saw using similar blade installment gadgets. One suggestion, how 'bout using a wider drill bit if you have one that won't come too close to the area you have highlighted to presumably be your absolute limit? One other suggestion, hide those handy small clips or don't "volunteer" them for assisting your wife and kids when it comes to keeping munchie bags tight n' fresh. LOL, You'll never see 'em again, or at least not as many when you need them.
I've used the clamp idea in the past but never used a piece of cardboard. My biggest problem is getting the tension tight without having the blade slip out. I replaced the right hand hex cylinder screw which clamps the blade with a thumbscrew so I don't have to constantly use the Allen wrench.
I bought a scroll saw from Einhell which is capable (somehow but difficult) of allowing the use of pinless blades. When I was finally able to get the blade inserted into the blade holder, it kept slipping out. I then tightened the allen screw more, and the screw broke off ! Needless to say, I returned the saw to the store where I bought it. I now own a used Proxxon scroll saw now, which works well, but only for pinned blades. This means that for internal cuts a relatively large hole needs to be drilled to get the blade through the hole, which may not suit the article that is being made. The blade holders shown here are also far from being ideal for use for internal cuts. Pegas uses the best setup for using pinless blades for internal cuts and for tensioning the blade, but their saws are much more expensive (ca €1000) than the typical ones that are on offer from DIY stores.
I have heard good things about the Pegas blade chucks, although I have never used them myself. Ther are a number of scroll saw models that are less than the pegas but which also accommodate a pinless scrollsaw blade (such as the well known Dewalt). Good luck!
This is addressed at about 2:10 in the video. When doing interior cuts it is very desirable from an ease and efficiency standpoint to be able to loosen the top of the blade from the blade attachment piece, feed the blade through the hole and then reattach the blade and continue working on your project. With this model of scroll saw (and others that are similar), the bottom blade attachment is held in place be the tension created by the blade being attached to both the upper and lower blade attachments. Unless you take some kind of action to maintain the tension on the blade when you detach it from the upper blade attachment, the bottom blade attachment will fall off and your blade will go with it. Hope that helps! :-)
This a great video! What a super idea for changing the blade and keeping the tension. Very clever! Thanks for the very clear and specific directions. I just bought model 3923 and the pinless blade clamps have wing nuts! I wish I could lay the clamps on a piece of wood, slip the blade in, leave it flat, and tighten it in. I am finding it extremely difficult to get the blade in just the right place between the screws, be sure it's square and stays square while I am turning the wing nut. I can't do this on a flat surface like you did because of the wing nut. Any suggestions? I just bought some expensive blades for better cuts and these ridiculous wing nuts are driving me nuts!!!
I am using Olson brand reverse tooth blades. Universal No. 7R. It is 11TPI with 8 reverse. Package no.: 44802. Here is an amazon link: www.amazon.com/Olson-FR44802-Reverse-Scroll-017-Inch/dp/B009YNZVVC/ref=sr_1_26?crid=2Q3GG7D0MI4KM&keywords=olson+reverse+tooth+44802&qid=1663431021&sprefix=olsen+reverse+tooth%2Caps%2C149&sr=8-26 (note that this is not an affiliate link)
My plain end clamps quit holding my plain end blades. I had a Central Machinery from HF. Dont bother wasting the $100 . I got a 22" Bauer from HF for a Christmas gift. I absolutely love it. No more fidgeting with those hokey clamps trying to figure out exactly where to put the blade. Loving it. Frett work is soooo much faster🎉
GREAT TIP, THANK YOU!!! I have this particular scroll saw and that tip will come in extremely handy as for whatever reason I like using the pinless blades more that the Pin-in Blades. Again thank you for the tip!!!😊
You are welcome. I am glad you found it useful!
Hi James I recently Bought my Scroll saw similar to the Wen & same blade attachments blocks. I have made various mods to my machine added led's into clear plastic guard supplied by my 12 volt drill battery attached to main arm but more to your video, your idea works but I think what I've done will help further. No need for cardboard, peg or removing the plastic insert. Just replace the metal spacer in the bottom clip bracket with a 15mm diameter round magnet with a hole in the center & a washer as spacer/shim to replace metal spacer. My allen key is also handy on a magnet stuck on side edge of the table. My bottom blade holder stays well & truly in place while doing inside cutting changes. I hope this will help other scrollers.
Interesting idea. Thanks for sharing this tip!
Thank you thank you thank you!!!!!...Such a simple tip that solves a problem that was making me scratch my head. Lol.your instructions were very precise and clear. ..Thank you for sharing.
I am glad the video was helpful. Thanks for watching!
Great implementation of KISS! I'm so glad I saw this, it'll save so much aggravation when scrolling. Thank you for this fab tip!
I am glad you found it helpful!
Brilliant idea. Thanks. Makes that change to an interior cut WAY EASIER AND FASTER. Again BRILLIANT
I am glad you found it helpful!
I bought one on Amazon and came with new clamps that are easier to replace the flat pins, but great idea for the other clamps Thank-you!
I have now purchased some aftermarket clamp from WEN that are working well and are more efficient to use.
that was very simple and useful! I just got my Wen scroll saw, haven't even run it yet, but I'll be giving your method a try! Thanks!
I hope it works out for you. Happy scrolling!
Great video now I understand how it work
Great, I am glad it was helpful!
Brilliant idea. I had bought adapters on Amazon, but they were cast metal, and one broke. Your method will do me just fine. Thanks.
Thank you. I hope it works out for the projects you do.
Muy buen truco!!!, Se me ocurre proba con un imán de neodimio en la pieza de abajo, no se si funcionaría.. Gracias por su ayuda
Thank you and thanks for watching. Let me know if the magnet works.
Very good tip and wish I'd seen this years back when I had a scroll saw using similar blade installment gadgets. One suggestion, how 'bout using a wider drill bit if you have one that won't come too close to the area you have highlighted to presumably be your absolute limit? One other suggestion, hide those handy small clips or don't "volunteer" them for assisting your wife and kids when it comes to keeping munchie bags tight n' fresh. LOL, You'll never see 'em again, or at least not as many when you need them.
haha! thanks for the ideas and thanks for watching!
I've used the clamp idea in the past but never used a piece of cardboard. My biggest problem is getting the tension tight without having the blade slip out. I replaced the right hand hex cylinder screw which clamps the blade with a thumbscrew so I don't have to constantly use the Allen wrench.
Sounds like a good improvement. I bought a long allen wrench that has a t-shaped handle and it is a big improvement.
Good idea. Better than the wen engineers did with the PITA procedure that they have.
I bought a scroll saw from Einhell which is capable (somehow but difficult) of allowing the use of pinless blades. When I was finally able to get the blade inserted into the blade holder, it kept slipping out. I then tightened the allen screw more, and the screw broke off ! Needless to say, I returned the saw to the store where I bought it. I now own a used Proxxon scroll saw now, which works well, but only for pinned blades. This means that for internal cuts a relatively large hole needs to be drilled to get the blade through the hole, which may not suit the article that is being made. The blade holders shown here are also far from being ideal for use for internal cuts. Pegas uses the best setup for using pinless blades for internal cuts and for tensioning the blade, but their saws are much more expensive (ca €1000) than the typical ones that are on offer from DIY stores.
I have heard good things about the Pegas blade chucks, although I have never used them myself. Ther are a number of scroll saw models that are less than the pegas but which also accommodate a pinless scrollsaw blade (such as the well known Dewalt). Good luck!
Thank you !
You are welcome. Happy Scrolling!
Nice.
Thanks for watching!
Thank you thank you 😊
You are welcome! I am glad it was helpful!
Brilliant
Works pretty good. Thank you!
Why do you keep the tension? I just feed it through the whole and then tighten it back up. Thanks
This is addressed at about 2:10 in the video. When doing interior cuts it is very desirable from an ease and efficiency standpoint to be able to loosen the top of the blade from the blade attachment piece, feed the blade through the hole and then reattach the blade and continue working on your project. With this model of scroll saw (and others that are similar), the bottom blade attachment is held in place be the tension created by the blade being attached to both the upper and lower blade attachments. Unless you take some kind of action to maintain the tension on the blade when you detach it from the upper blade attachment, the bottom blade attachment will fall off and your blade will go with it. Hope that helps! :-)
@@HomestyleWoodCrafts ok gotcha thanks I said something that I know nothing about. Was half asleep 😴🤔(excuse). Thanks
Fair enough. 😀 Thanks for watching!
what kind of foam pad do you have under your saw?
HAHA! I cut a piece out of cheap camping pad. I was hoping it would help dampen the vibration.
This a great video! What a super idea for changing the blade and keeping the tension. Very clever! Thanks for the very clear and specific directions. I just bought model 3923 and the pinless blade clamps have wing nuts! I wish I could lay the clamps on a piece of wood, slip the blade in, leave it flat, and tighten it in. I am finding it extremely difficult to get the blade in just the right place between the screws, be sure it's square and stays square while I am turning the wing nut. I can't do this on a flat surface like you did because of the wing nut. Any suggestions? I just bought some expensive blades for better cuts and these ridiculous wing nuts are driving me nuts!!!
Could you cut a board to length so that the wingnuts were just off of the end as you installed the blade?
I like my Dewalt scroll saw. Soo much easier to deal with.
I have heard great things about DeWalt scroll saws!
Dewalt = $450. Wen = $100.
Hello!!! What number of blade did you use to cut that piece of pine?
I am using Olson brand reverse tooth blades. Universal No. 7R. It is 11TPI with 8 reverse. Package no.: 44802. Here is an amazon link: www.amazon.com/Olson-FR44802-Reverse-Scroll-017-Inch/dp/B009YNZVVC/ref=sr_1_26?crid=2Q3GG7D0MI4KM&keywords=olson+reverse+tooth+44802&qid=1663431021&sprefix=olsen+reverse+tooth%2Caps%2C149&sr=8-26 (note that this is not an affiliate link)
@@HomestyleWoodCrafts thank you so much!!!!
Or you could just attach the bottom clamp with a zip tie so it stays in place when you remove the tension and top clamp....
Never tried this. Did you?
Thank you!
Thank you! I am glad the video was useful.