Stick To Aretes Better With These Climbing Tips
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- Опубліковано 5 бер 2023
- Climbing on aretes can be tricky. With these tips and strategies perfect for climbing gym beginners hoping to become better, you too can stop the dreaded feeling of spinning off the wall like a barndoor.
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As promised, the link:
ua-cam.com/video/RDjr2a2g5C8/v-deo.html
😄 Good advice Dave (and Christopher). Grandpa
I loved Christopher's tips! Great video, I'm glad I bought a pair of harder rubber shoes for moments like this! I used them in the competition to send a slab route that I would have otherwise had a lot of trouble with in my normal soft rubber shoes.
I used to compete with just one pair of shoes. After making this video I brought two pairs along to the last competition too!
- Dave
I've been looking at getting new shoes recently so seeing the difference in soft compared to hard is definitely interesting ! Thanks !
That's fantastic! I hope your new pair is exactly what you need/want. Getting new climbing shoes is always exciting, but then you wonder if you bought the best pair. Whichever pair you get, it's bound to be a better pair than whatever you bought first. You simply have so much more information to help you choose well, so I'm sure they'll be great 👍
- Dave
I love this example! However, I also have found that body position and which foot lead also effects the ability to lay back, it's a shame that your final test on the arette that you didn't swap the shoes and try again, you did only soft of the left, hard on the right, it would also be good to see hard on the left and soft on the right to see if it's the shoes, or the hip position as well
Great point. I can post an updated video, but I also anticipated this question and did the test before. For sure, hip position matters. The inside foot is harder (you can see in the earlier video where I help Kurt that I had to be more patient at the top). I had the technique pretty dialed in though, and when I did the test with two soft and two hard shoes it was easily about 30% easier with the hard shoes, and almost impossible with the soft shoes. It was to the point that I almost couldn't use the proper technique because my shoes would bend too much and I couldn't create the right core tension/pressure that allowed me to stay in the right body position.
I hope this helps (at least until I can post the updated version).
Cheers!
-Dave
@@climbhangout thanks for the response! This was definitely a very helpful explanation!
very good video, helped me with my decision to buy a second pair of climbing shoes 😍
I love your videos. Thank you for the great advice.🙏🏽in the future I hope you consider making a video about climbing roofs? I’m not sure what to call it.😂 but yeah when the route has a right angle ledge that you have to pull-up and over onto a flat face climb. I really struggle with these
Thanks! I will definitely take this request into consideration and try to put together some helpful tips for you.
- Dave
@@climbhangout thank you so much for the consideration. Much appreciated 🙏🏽😊
@@Phoenixhunter157 Can you give some more information about the relative placement of the holds? Are the hand holds in line with relatively large ledges for feet? Or do the problems feature more pulling to higher holds first before getting your feet bunched up under your hips?
Thanks, Dave
"I'm five!" 😂
I feel five when I have to dyno sometimes. Haha 😁
- Dave
Also, this may just be my new response anytime someone asks for advice. 😉
this is stuff I, as a beginner climber, have noticed after I bought my second pair of much stiffer shoes. I'm glad to hear someone with much more experience corroborate this. How much do you think really solid technique can make up for having the "wrong" stiffness in our shoes?
That's a great question Yiyang. When I was testing out this theory it was almost impossible to do the climb in the shoes that were too big. I could still climb up the arete with soft but tight shoes, it just took substantially more effort and focus. I found I could not make any mistakes or else it was hard to recover.
At a recent climbing competition, I did the same climb with firm and loose shoes. It felt about 30% easier to stand on the very small holds with the stiff shoes in that situation. Sometimes that 30% is enough to make the difference. Since the difficulty of climbing with soft shoes seems to be in the stability of your foot, I think most of this 30% would have to be made up by using your foot or grip strength. It seems very hard in my experience to apply good technique to an unstable foot (like climbing well on small holds in running shoes that are untied).
Anyway, I hope that answered your question. Thanks for the comment.
- Dave
@@climbhangout Can't thank you enough for the insightful videos and equally insightful response.
Cheers Dave!
@@yybbhn My pleasure, buddy! 😃