2000 Ford Focus SE Wagon was pushed into the garage this weekend as a project car for 600 bucks. I watched this 4 part video series, then watched part 1 like 4 more times. As of me typing right now, I am exactly where this video ends. IF you have some common sense, mechanically inclined enough that you are not in fear of this type of work, this young man has given you SPOT on education on this removal. My removal went EXACTLY as this video describes. I contacted headsonly and found the head Alex got is 200 dollars. For 250, you get a complete head, new cam, lifters, rockets etc. WELL worth the 50 bucks!!!!!. OF note. NOTICE the starter when you get to this point. It is BURIED on this car. With the head and intake out of the way, I am replacing the starter and the positive and negative cables while I have super easy access!!! Also. . .now is the time to CLEAN, inspect and replace any bad hoses, tape up that wiring harness bad spots, clean the fender wells, etc etc. Finally, to lift the entire head, exhaust manifold and intake manifold. . .I used a 8ft step ladder, a 8ft 2x4 and a chain and lifted, pivoted and then set it on the front of the cowl, then hand lifted it down to a bucket. Worked like a charm. EXCELLENT video Alex. . .well done sir.
I'm always willing to answer questions. The process is fairly straight forward for an experienced mechanic, but there are many practices you must keep in mind. Don't mix parts, keep all internal parts clean. New head bolts MUST be used, gasket services should be clean enough to eat off of, and never use abrasives to clean mating surfaces, just to name a few. Don't be too proud to know when you're in deeper than you want, but don't be to scared to learn something new.
Just wanted to say thank you! I found out last night my wifes focus needs a head gasket and was really intimidated till i watched this. So thanx dude=)
This is the best video's for the Ford Focus 2.0 SPI head replacement. I recommend you watch all the video's and pay attention to the Torque Spec's. Thanks for the video TheAlexMan.
Just watched your series on this subject and successful Car up and running Thank you. I would like to say to anyone trying this install new water pump timing belt and timing belt tensioner comes in a kit well worth it. I did the head with intake on much easier get another couple of hands and drop it in. Again Thank you Alex
Hi, sir, I have some questions. 1. In this video, there's only two brackets at the back of cylinder head(intake side), is that all we need to remove ? 2. On the left side, after remove the timing belt from the camshaft, is the head good to go ? 3. I just removed the thermostat, there's a little piece of metal about 1 * 1 inch, is that most probably came from dropped valve seat ? thank you for your knowledgeable reple.
how's the head holding up? I just ordered one from "headsonly" on eBay as you did. it arrived today and looks decent. Haven't gotten around to putting it on yet. I have a 2000 sedan. It has not dropped a seat but I feel like it's coming or already has started to drop.
for anyone doing this job, the fuel line has a disconnect tool you can buy for 2 bucks, saves a pain in the ass:P but this is a simple job take your time and label things if its your first time!
It has 113,000 miles on it. Everything you see there is just discoloration. There is no build up at all on the head. The inside of the valve cover had a little bit of build up but it's actually just about normal for an engine of that mileage. The previous owners were pretty good with oil changes.
You didn't show the throttle body connections nor the electrical connections on the back side. Careful on the electrical connections as they are brittle. I am trying to figure out that connection of the throttle body to the firewall.....
Normally, yes. It is not a huge deal, it will leak a bit but it's not going to spray out and soak you. If the car is running, you can remove the fuse for the fuel pump and start the car. It will run for a few seconds then die, the fuel system is now depressurized.
Hello Alex! I have a Ford focus as well and Im having the same valve problem, but Im scare to do the job but at the same time I want to try to do it my self...I want to know if you can help me with some question that are going to come up on the way? Thanks.
My Problem runs deep: definite damage to one or more Pistons/Rods, so I intend to replace any damaged parts, then completely rebuild each piston with new rings. If I'm understanding this correctly; I will need to purchase a Re-Spec'd Head which includes the Re-Spec'd Valve Seat corrections, in order to be certain my efforts have not been in vain, and history repeated, yes ? In other words, just having the cylinders alone rebored will not prevent the valve seat problem from reoccurring ? Also: I would drain the oil as my First Step. Is there a reason I should not ? Just curious, because even in other videos, nobody seems to be showing draining the oil as an early step. THANKS !
Kenneth Enos Boring the cylinders has no affect on the head. You will need to replace the head to fix the problem now, and you should replace it with a head designed to keep the same problem from happening in the future. Drain the oil now or later, it doesn't matter as long as you change it. I think I left my oil in the engine during this work. I changed it once I got it running. No point changing the oil in an engine that is scrap.
Been studying all the vids, and looks like your suggested EBayer has the recon heads for great price. Hardest part that scares me is pulling all the pistons for replacement & New rings. Thanx Alex!
I'm in the process of pulling the head on my 2001 Focus - I've got everything off except a connection between the throttle body and the brake booster - I can't figure a way to disconnect that - any suggestions
At a dealership or other service center, I'm going to guess $1000-$2000 in labor if the valve seat hasn't failed yet. If the valve seat has already failed, it would likely total the car.
Hi Alex, Please help, I'm getting conflicting diagnosis from 2 different mechs. Just bought a year ago. 05 Ford Focus ZX4 2.0 DOHC with manual trans.. I'm smelling burnt oil from fresh air vent. No blue smoke or smell of burnt oil from tail pipe. There's oil dripping from side of motor. First mech replaced valve cover gasket as process of elimination. Somewhat reduced the burnt oil smell but said the lower gasket might need replacement too and more costly. Got a 2nd opinion and 2nd mech wants to replace oil pan gasket. I don't know who's right. The first mech did reduce the burnt oil smell. What do you think. it runs with plenty of pep. I appreciate any info you could give. Thank you.
Lower gasket and oil pan gasket mean the same thing to me. Might just be the two mechanics use different words. Use some engine degreaser to clean up the caked on oil mess. Once it's clean you'll be able to pinpoint the source of the leak and replace the corresponding gasket.
Update bought head from heads only and wow they were awful the company did not push down valve seals so I was blowing blue smoke . When I called them to ask how could you do something like that they hung up. Check your seals before installing head. Heads only are very rude I would try someone else.
to any one who may see this and have a focus with the sohc engine with original head do yourself a favor and follow Alex man's advice and replace with an updated head. I found out the hard way in most cases when the seats dropped if not shut down immediately catastrophic failure will occur... so instead of a 500 dollar fix it can turn in as my case a 1300 dollar fix and that's cost of parts and machine work unfortunately as the years progress the blocks are becoming hard to find and cost is rising
TheAlexManVideos Doh- of course! One more question -- you removed the head from the block with the manifolds attached. Why not put it back on with them on as well? Let me guess, too difficult to line up the dowels without messing up the head gasket?
You need to remove all the lines going to the intake. There is also a bracket at the bottom of the intake manifold that needs to come off. You'll have to remove all the coolant lines. You need to remove the timing belt, support the engine when you remove the mount. Then the exhaust needs to be disconnected. I doubt that anything in the coolant is valve seat. They are two separate systems. Don't attempt a job you're not comfortable doing.
Hellow somebody who know the name of the parts of 2001 ford focus the one that under the rocker arm that it has a tension?because i want to buy that but i dont know the specific name so pls can you help me?
Why not buy a low millage 2.0 16v DOHV Zetec engine and retrofit it into your focus The SPI engine was only offered in the USA and Canada hand down the worst engine ever built ever...
It's not worth it. Way more parts are required. Messing with harnesses and computers is a hassle. A head swap is way easier. It's just an econobox car that nobody cares about and if it has some hackjob engine swap then it's worth even less.
2000 Ford Focus SE Wagon was pushed into the garage this weekend as a project car for 600 bucks. I watched this 4 part video series, then watched part 1 like 4 more times. As of me typing right now, I am exactly where this video ends. IF you have some common sense, mechanically inclined enough that you are not in fear of this type of work, this young man has given you SPOT on education on this removal. My removal went EXACTLY as this video describes. I contacted headsonly and found the head Alex got is 200 dollars. For 250, you get a complete head, new cam, lifters, rockets etc. WELL worth the 50 bucks!!!!!. OF note. NOTICE the starter when you get to this point. It is BURIED on this car. With the head and intake out of the way, I am replacing the starter and the positive and negative cables while I have super easy access!!! Also. . .now is the time to CLEAN, inspect and replace any bad hoses, tape up that wiring harness bad spots, clean the fender wells, etc etc. Finally, to lift the entire head, exhaust manifold and intake manifold. . .I used a 8ft step ladder, a 8ft 2x4 and a chain and lifted, pivoted and then set it on the front of the cowl, then hand lifted it down to a bucket. Worked like a charm. EXCELLENT video Alex. . .well done sir.
I'm always willing to answer questions. The process is fairly straight forward for an experienced mechanic, but there are many practices you must keep in mind. Don't mix parts, keep all internal parts clean. New head bolts MUST be used, gasket services should be clean enough to eat off of, and never use abrasives to clean mating surfaces, just to name a few. Don't be too proud to know when you're in deeper than you want, but don't be to scared to learn something new.
Just wanted to say thank you! I found out last night my wifes focus needs a head gasket and was really intimidated till i watched this. So thanx dude=)
This is the best video's for the Ford Focus 2.0 SPI head replacement. I recommend you watch all the video's and pay attention to the Torque Spec's. Thanks for the video TheAlexMan.
Just watched your series on this subject and successful Car up and running Thank you. I would like to say to anyone trying this install new water pump timing belt and timing belt tensioner comes in a kit well worth it. I did the head with intake on much easier get another couple of hands and drop it in. Again Thank you Alex
With a socket and ratchet. They were not rusty. Spray them with PB blaster for a couple days if yours are tight. Heating them up helps too.
Hi, sir, I have some questions. 1. In this video, there's only two brackets at the back of cylinder head(intake side), is that all we need to remove ? 2. On the left side, after remove the timing belt from the camshaft, is the head good to go ? 3. I just removed the thermostat, there's a little piece of metal about 1 * 1 inch, is that most probably came from dropped valve seat ? thank you for your knowledgeable reple.
aww man, hell of a place to leave off, left me wanting more, lol Nice vid man
nice video, those look pretty easy to work on too!
how's the head holding up? I just ordered one from "headsonly" on eBay as you did. it arrived today and looks decent. Haven't gotten around to putting it on yet. I have a 2000 sedan. It has not dropped a seat but I feel like it's coming or already has started to drop.
Very helpful video I have to do this tomorrow at work lol
for anyone doing this job, the fuel line has a disconnect tool you can buy for 2 bucks, saves a pain in the ass:P but this is a simple job take your time and label things if its your first time!
It has 113,000 miles on it. Everything you see there is just discoloration. There is no build up at all on the head. The inside of the valve cover had a little bit of build up but it's actually just about normal for an engine of that mileage. The previous owners were pretty good with oil changes.
You didn't show the throttle body connections nor the electrical connections on the back side. Careful on the electrical connections as they are brittle. I am trying to figure out that connection of the throttle body to the firewall.....
Normally, yes. It is not a huge deal, it will leak a bit but it's not going to spray out and soak you. If the car is running, you can remove the fuse for the fuel pump and start the car. It will run for a few seconds then die, the fuel system is now depressurized.
man your focus looks as rusted on the exhaust shield as mine! what gives with that?!?!
Hello Alex! I have a Ford focus as well and Im having the same valve problem, but Im scare to do the job but at the same time I want to try to do it my self...I want to know if you can help me with some question that are going to come up on the way?
Thanks.
I had a question.how did u get the lower intake bolts on after installing the cylinder head?
Did you buy the whole head gasket kit or just head and bolts???
I bought the whole kit
Man, it is too fast to follow, especially for a rookie. So, is there fuel pop out when remove the fuel line ?
My Problem runs deep: definite damage to one or more Pistons/Rods, so I intend to replace any damaged parts, then completely rebuild each piston with new rings. If I'm understanding this correctly; I will need to purchase a Re-Spec'd Head which includes the Re-Spec'd Valve Seat corrections, in order to be certain my efforts have not been in vain, and history repeated, yes ? In other words, just having the cylinders alone rebored will not prevent the valve seat problem from reoccurring ? Also: I would drain the oil as my First Step. Is there a reason I should not ? Just curious, because even in other videos, nobody seems to be showing draining the oil as an early step. THANKS !
Kenneth Enos Boring the cylinders has no affect on the head. You will need to replace the head to fix the problem now, and you should replace it with a head designed to keep the same problem from happening in the future. Drain the oil now or later, it doesn't matter as long as you change it. I think I left my oil in the engine during this work. I changed it once I got it running. No point changing the oil in an engine that is scrap.
Been studying all the vids, and looks like your suggested EBayer has the recon heads for great price. Hardest part that scares me is pulling all the pistons for replacement & New rings. Thanx Alex!
I'm in the process of pulling the head on my 2001 Focus - I've got everything off except a connection between the throttle body and the brake booster - I can't figure a way to disconnect that - any suggestions
How did you remove the catalytic converter bolts?
I gotta keep people watching my videos somehow.
At a dealership or other service center, I'm going to guess $1000-$2000 in labor if the valve seat hasn't failed yet. If the valve seat has already failed, it would likely total the car.
How much did the new parts cost?
Hi Alex,
Please help, I'm getting conflicting diagnosis from 2 different mechs. Just bought a year ago. 05 Ford Focus ZX4 2.0 DOHC with manual trans.. I'm smelling burnt oil from fresh air vent. No blue smoke or smell of burnt oil from tail pipe. There's oil dripping from side of motor. First mech replaced valve cover gasket as process of elimination. Somewhat reduced the burnt oil smell but said the lower gasket might need replacement too and more costly. Got a 2nd opinion and 2nd mech wants to replace oil pan gasket. I don't know who's right. The first mech did reduce the burnt oil smell. What do you think. it runs with plenty of pep. I appreciate any info you could give. Thank you.
Lower gasket and oil pan gasket mean the same thing to me. Might just be
the two mechanics use different words. Use some engine degreaser to
clean up the caked on oil mess. Once it's clean you'll be able to
pinpoint the source of the leak and replace the corresponding gasket.
How heavy is that head?
Update bought head from heads only and wow they were awful the company did not push down valve seals so I was blowing blue smoke . When I called them to ask how could you do something like that they hung up. Check your seals before installing head. Heads only are very rude I would try someone else.
How much did it cost you to replace the cylinder heads on your own?
Between the head, gaskets, head bolts, and other small parts I'd say you should set aside $500 or so.
to any one who may see this and have a focus with the sohc engine with original head do yourself a favor and follow Alex man's advice and replace with an updated head. I found out the hard way in most cases when the seats dropped if not shut down immediately catastrophic failure will occur... so instead of a 500 dollar fix it can turn in as my case a 1300 dollar fix and that's cost of parts and machine work unfortunately as the years progress the blocks are becoming hard to find and cost is rising
Do you need to pull the engine completely out to swap the head?
It is not necessary. Watch parts 2-4 to see the rest of the process.
TheAlexManVideos
Doh- of course! One more question -- you removed the head from the block with the manifolds attached. Why not put it back on with them on as well? Let me guess, too difficult to line up the dowels without messing up the head gasket?
citabjockey I don't see any specific reason not to install the head and manifolds as a unit besides easier maneuvering of heavy parts.
that head looked nasty, must not have taken care of the oil changes as well as they should of. How many miles does that thing have?
You need to remove all the lines going to the intake. There is also a bracket at the bottom of the intake manifold that needs to come off. You'll have to remove all the coolant lines. You need to remove the timing belt, support the engine when you remove the mount. Then the exhaust needs to be disconnected. I doubt that anything in the coolant is valve seat. They are two separate systems. Don't attempt a job you're not comfortable doing.
wheres the next video?? you really know what your doing
Hellow somebody who know the name of the parts of 2001 ford focus the one that under the rocker arm that it has a tension?because i want to buy that but i dont know the specific name so pls can you help me?
Thanks man I soaked with wd 40 hopefully they break loose or I will have to take the manifold off on the car!
very helpful
I want more lol awsome.
"piece of metal about 1 * 1 inch", oh, sorry, the size is about 2 * 2 millemeter.
fun!
Basically, too hard for the average DIY person, and better left to pros.
Why not buy a low millage 2.0 16v DOHV Zetec engine and retrofit it into your focus The SPI engine was only offered in the USA and Canada hand down the worst engine ever built ever...
It's not worth it. Way more parts are required. Messing with harnesses and computers is a hassle. A head swap is way easier. It's just an econobox car that nobody cares about and if it has some hackjob engine swap then it's worth even less.