You gave me a heart attack at 4 minutes and 23 seconds. I was just watching random videos to see how other people have done on 2.0/2.3 builds and I have not come across a 2 step angular torque on anything until this and I missed that step 5 on my 2.0 build. Even worse, I had the PDF manual and wrote down the torque steps ( all but the second 90, step 5 ) on a separate piece of paper. I have the engine on the hoist ready to drop in but now, thanks to you and this video, I have to put it back on the engine stand, pull the covers and cams to get that additional 90 and then put it back together. I put 11.2 pistons in it so I really don't want to be blowing a head gasket for something as simple as that. Thanks for being so detailed that I realized I had missed something and caught it before it was a bad day or much harder to correct.
Some years back my son and I changed cam belt on a Zetec 2.0 that had zero timing marks on anything and we had no custom alignment tools. We did a good job of making our own marks to put new belt on in same place of the old one, but did have to keep watch of everything. I would hate to see someone try it that wasn't too clear on the concepts.
Same motor and process for my 2006 Mazda 3 with 2.0 L. Thank you so very much for making this video. I was struggling trying to find out information on how to do this and found several other videos, but yours is clean cut and it’s the best that I could find.
So all joking aside from my comment on your removal video, you have saved my butt. I didn’t end up trading in the car because a new car was going to put me in over my head (no pun intended) with full coverage insurance and car payments combined. So I dove into this deep abyss of a job, and thanks to you and the handy ACTUAL workshop manual I once again have a running Focus. One problem I have is the timing cover is leaking maybe a drip every 15 seconds after warmup, BUT, I will find redneck ways of slowing that down because everything else is great, and of course, I have no energy at the moment to take stuff apart again. Sorry for the essay I wrote but seriously thank you for posting this. Mine is a 2010 so it differed on procedure by a smidge but nothing huge. 😊
Great video, I'm getting a smell of coolant and block test proved HC in coolant. I was apprehensive you didn't take off the cam sensor and crank the engine a few time to get the oil pressure up for the tensioner. But it worked first time so happy days!
I put a lot of oil all over it when I installed everything. I figure that’s enough lube to get ‘er started. If you want to crank her a few times before you start it, by all means definitely do that.
Excellent vid. Im just in the process of doing, stem seals, valve guides and poss piston rings on my wife's Mazda MX5 NC 1.8L same engine. I'm liking your up close shots. You put me on to the diamon washer, not mentioned in the engine service manual I have (slightly earlier version).
I have 2009 and 2011 2.3 Ford Rangers with 156,000 and 196,000 miles. Since their engines are aluminum block and aluminum head I’m hoping that head gasket failures are rare.
You might be right. This head came off because the valves were leaking. The machine shop did say that the cylinder head was cupped in the middle and it needed to be resurfaced.
Maybe you can help me with a problem. I've helped my friend to change the head gasket on a Focus 1,8 Flexfuel -07. The car cranks but there is no spark on any of the ignition coils. I've measured the voltage and all of them have 12V from the fuse but not from the ECU at ignition. Wiring from ECU to ignition coils isn't broken. Do you have any ideas? Faulty ECU? 🤔
@@ToolDemos No codes in the ECU. But when checking real time data it says the camshaft sensor is faulty. But when measuring the cables it pnly have 0,3 Volts. Cables between sensor and ECU isn't broken. I'm guessing it has a faulty ECU.
@@AeroHaage last check I would suggest is check all the other sensors on the same 5v circuit. I know it’s a lot of work, but unplugging each one, one at a time will prove whether you have a short anywhere in the circuit. If the 5v ref comes back up, the sensor you unplugged is shorted.
Thx for the very intuitive video! Question - you had the jack under the engine with the mount screws off to get to piston heads from top. Where's a safe place to use the jack to hold the engine from underneath (with mount screws off) when you have to take the oil pan off to remove the pistons/rods/bolts for insertion of new pistons/rods? So far, it seems everybody uses a piece of wood on top of jack pressed against oil pan, so I'm having trouble figuring out best way to hold the engine in place while replacing the pistons/rods (my goal is to not have to remove the engine block)
hello tool demos, I accidently mixed up the valve tappets. how do I identify the correct tappets to install them in the correct space. thankyou for your help.
The only way to measure valve lash is to put the valve train back together and measure the clearance between the tappets and the cam. You’ll just have to guess which tappets to put, where. Then torque down all of the cam caps. Now go to each valve and measure the clearance with a feeler gauge. Measured cold, the lash should be 0.22mm to 0.28mm for intake and 0.27mm to 0.33mm for the exhaust. Switch around the tappets that were out of range, torque down the cams and measure again. Repeat this procedure until all of your clearances are within specifications.
Look at the back of that camshaft. You’ll see the groove that’s cut into it is not through the center. You want to rotate the cam so that groove is above the top of the head. That way, your locking tool can fit into it. That’s how you know you’re at top dead center.
@@ToolDemos ah alright, is that how it works. Quite clever really as that now make sense. Thank you for explaining this and thank you for the video which is very informative. 😃
As you look at the engine, the sensor towards the right side on top is the camshaft position sensor. More in the middle on top is the cylinder head temperature sensor.
Question, my friend. I am buying a new head to avoid valve work. All the new heads I see have new cams with them but they don’t have the gears installed. Is there precautions to take when transferring the sprockets to the new head? I was thinking nothing should be at risk really except I figure you need to keep a combo wrench on the camshaft to keep it from moving while torquing down the sprocket bolts.
the one thing you did not show is when you romove the crank bolt and pully not keyed to the crank is the the step putting it back on with the diomond washer and how much torque it takes to tighten the crank bolt.very crucial step.every thing else is great job.
The problem with all these transverse engines is they are un-evenly cooled. The front side gets good airflow but the back-side get very little. Consequently they have a heat differential from the front to back. Coupled with a high temperature thermostat (for emission controls), it is only a matter of time before the head gasket leaks. A possible solution is probably a lower temperature thermostat and a thicker oil.
Great video. I am in the middle of replacing the head after an overheat. The rebuilt head I received has the single trigger that you call the bump in the intake cam...my original has a 6 trigger disc though. Everything I see shows the 1 trigger ans the right part for this 2008 Ford Focus SE (PZEV). Are these interchangeable? I did order the head and provided a VIN number. I am not able to find much info, so i figure I would pose this question here and either you or someone who may have experienced this can hopefully answer. Obviously I want to do this job once, LOL.
Ford has a different name for it. They call it the cylinder head temperature sensor. It’s located between the number two and three ignition coils right on top of the cylinder head. When you look at the valve cover you’ll see a wire going through a rubber cover, that’s it.
What if the cam plates were brand new? In which order would you have placed them? I think those cam plates are similar and you can place them anywhere.
Correct if you had a new timing chain and cam sprockets, you would line up the cams first, and then install the chain and then torque down the bolts on the sprockets.
Is this a common issue for these? I somewhat recently bought one of these with a 2.3. I discovered water in the oil. I took the head gasket off and discovered the gasket was not blown. There's two wires at the bottom of the intake that I cannot get off. I can't figure out the clip, but I lifted the block to find a double layered metal gasket. What should I be looking for here? Did these come from the factory with metal gaskets? Or am I just finding someone else's attempt to fix the same problem? The car was very clean and easy to break down for 217,000 miles.
@@ToolDemos Thank you so much for the reply. I thought as much. It's actually a Mazda5, but I'm pretty sure it's the same engine. It even says FoMoCo on it. Your videos are excellent and thorough. I really appreciate what you do.
I’m trying to understand your question Freddy. If you turned your duratec engine counterclockwise with a wrench and then the engine got stuck, it’s very likely that the timing chain slipped. That happens because the timing chain tensioner is only designed to keep tension on the chain if it turns clockwise. The chain will go slack if you turn it counterclockwise and then the chain can slip off of the sprocket or skip some teeth and end up with the wrong timing. If that is what happened to your engine, you need to reset the timing.
Thanks man. Actually yes it's is the same engine. Ford Duratec 2.0/2.3 and 2.5, i'm ready research on the service manual. Very good engine, in my case it's mounted in a 2017 T6 Ford Ranger
thank you for this info, i've been looking for this head but no luck. where can i get one cause im from South Africa. i'd appreciateif i could get a link where i can purchase. thank you
I'm using a mahle head gasket, the directions say to install dry, but to use rtv only when directed. You say ford directs you to do so? Would I follow that directive or mahles directive... Nathan hurt himself in confusion It's super effective!!!
Good question. Here’s my take on it: Mahle designed their head gaskets to be installed dry. So those instructions are for all of the head gaskets that they make. Ford designed this engine where the head gasket also contacts that timing cover. The RTV will keep oil from leaking out of the timing cover, so I think that portion of the head gasket isn’t there for sealing purposes only for correct spacing.
Hi I've known your new Chanel and I don't understand English at all can you please tell me how many Nm are these cylinder head bolts. I have ford focus 2008 1.8 benzin
Ne video. I see you use Ultra Grey on the timing cover. What are your thoughts on Motorcraft TA-357? I’m about to do a 3.5 water pump and don’t like the short time frame given to get the initial torque. Thanks
I’ve used ultra grey for years without problems, but it’s not a perfect product. It sets up slow and there are reports of it failing. A few months ago, I started using RTV products from Three Bond. It’s made for professionals and sets up quicker. So far, so good. One difference is that it’s less viscous, which can make it tougher to work with. I tell you this because I don’t have experience with the Motorcraft product, but I imagine it’s more like Three Bond, or even made by them.
Hello there! I have a Volvo V50 1.8 petrol engine year 2005 which is originally a Ford engine and look exactly like this engine you have here. I will use the torque for the cylinder head as you showed here. I need replace the piston rings and I couldn't find the right dimensions for the rings for standard pistons even the dealership couldn't find the for me. I also need the torque for piston arm bolts which sit on the crack shaft. Can you help me with this 1.8L ford engine please? Thank in advance
Hi Sami, to get all of the technical info I used for the repair, I bought a three-day subscription to Ford’s factory service information. I printed out the procedures that I needed for the cylinder head replacement. So, I don’t have access to the info you need. The website is www.motorcraftservice.com/ - a 3 day subscription gets you all service info for every Ford vehicle. It costs about $22, well worth the money; especially when you are going that deep into the engine.
Oh man, I have the exact same car and engine but a late 2005 so it's a MY 2006. I have an inlet valve stuck open so need to open up to see what's what. Luckily the valve isn't interfering with the piston or anything but I'm debating replacing the head with a new refurb one. This video is worth its weight in Gold.
the holes line up uncompressed, what happens to all the b.s. extra material on that gasket when you compress it and it gets larger, there should probably be a class action against these kinds of companies
Can you please come fix my 2009 Ford focus it won't stop over heating I have done all I can to fix it and nothing seems to be working I am a single mom with one son alone with no help it would make my day of u could do that for me please
I installed the tool for that in the removal video: ua-cam.com/video/v-Tmt9wlIY4/v-deo.htmlsi=KtND3jPZUP3VidPG You need it to set the top and bottom to #1 TDC.
I wish you could download the manual. I live in Iran and unfortunately I am not able to buy a repair manual. Unfortunately, Iran's Muslim politicians have destroyed people's lives and taken them hostage.
That sucks! Try this link: charm.li/Ford/2006/Focus%20L4-2.0L%20VIN%20N/Repair%20and%20Diagnosis/Engine%2C%20Cooling%20and%20Exhaust/Engine/Cylinder%20Head%20Assembly/Service%20and%20Repair/Cylinder%20Head%20Replacement/ I hope that works for you.
Here’s a link to the Focus service manual on eManual online: shrsl.com/47dpj
22% OFF Sitewide
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You gave me a heart attack at 4 minutes and 23 seconds. I was just watching random videos to see how other people have done on 2.0/2.3 builds and I have not come across a 2 step angular torque on anything until this and I missed that step 5 on my 2.0 build. Even worse, I had the PDF manual and wrote down the torque steps ( all but the second 90, step 5 ) on a separate piece of paper. I have the engine on the hoist ready to drop in but now, thanks to you and this video, I have to put it back on the engine stand, pull the covers and cams to get that additional 90 and then put it back together. I put 11.2 pistons in it so I really don't want to be blowing a head gasket for something as simple as that. Thanks for being so detailed that I realized I had missed something and caught it before it was a bad day or much harder to correct.
Oh wow! Extra work sucks, but I think you avoided disaster.
😯
Really happy that you added the tool and skill level metrics. The days of back yard mekankin are just about done.
Unfortunately true. I realized on this car that some stuff is critical. Wouldn’t want people to damage their cars because it looked easy on video.
Some years back my son and I changed cam belt on a Zetec 2.0 that had zero timing marks on anything and we had no custom alignment tools.
We did a good job of making our own marks to put new belt on in same place of the old one, but did have to keep watch of everything.
I would hate to see someone try it that wasn't too clear on the concepts.
Same motor and process for my 2006 Mazda 3 with 2.0 L. Thank you so very much for making this video. I was struggling trying to find out information on how to do this and found several other videos, but yours is clean cut and it’s the best that I could find.
That’s great to hear. Thanks!
So all joking aside from my comment on your removal video, you have saved my butt.
I didn’t end up trading in the car because a new car was going to put me in over my head (no pun intended) with full coverage insurance and car payments combined. So I dove into this deep abyss of a job, and thanks to you and the handy ACTUAL workshop manual I once again have a running Focus.
One problem I have is the timing cover is leaking maybe a drip every 15 seconds after warmup, BUT, I will find redneck ways of slowing that down because everything else is great, and of course, I have no energy at the moment to take stuff apart again. Sorry for the essay I wrote but seriously thank you for posting this.
Mine is a 2010 so it differed on procedure by a smidge but nothing huge. 😊
I remember you said you were going to trade it in. That’s awesome!
"CLEAN IS THE NAME OF THE GAME"💯🏆
Great Channel man! I just stumbled across it because of this video.
Super high quality videos I'm sure your channel will be successful.
Thank you Goob, I really appreciate that.
Great video, I'm getting a smell of coolant and block test proved HC in coolant. I was apprehensive you didn't take off the cam sensor and crank the engine a few time to get the oil pressure up for the tensioner. But it worked first time so happy days!
I put a lot of oil all over it when I installed everything. I figure that’s enough lube to get ‘er started. If you want to crank her a few times before you start it, by all means definitely do that.
@@ToolDemos perfect then!
Excellent vid. Im just in the process of doing, stem seals, valve guides and poss piston rings on my wife's Mazda MX5 NC 1.8L same engine. I'm liking your up close shots. You put me on to the diamon washer, not mentioned in the engine service manual I have (slightly earlier version).
Right on! Happy wrenching.
I have 2009 and 2011 2.3 Ford Rangers with 156,000 and 196,000 miles. Since their engines are aluminum block and aluminum head I’m hoping that head gasket failures are rare.
You might be right. This head came off because the valves were leaking. The machine shop did say that the cylinder head was cupped in the middle and it needed to be resurfaced.
@@ToolDemos
As in raised in the middle?
@@MustangsTrainsMowers right. I think it was 3 or 4 thousandths that he needed to remove to make it flat.
Maybe you can help me with a problem. I've helped my friend to change the head gasket on a Focus 1,8 Flexfuel -07. The car cranks but there is no spark on any of the ignition coils.
I've measured the voltage and all of them have 12V from the fuse but not from the ECU at ignition. Wiring from ECU to ignition coils isn't broken. Do you have any ideas? Faulty ECU? 🤔
Have a close look at the cam and crank sensors. Were they installed properly and plugged in? You may even get a code stored in the ECU.
@@ToolDemos No codes in the ECU. But when checking real time data it says the camshaft sensor is faulty. But when measuring the cables it pnly have 0,3 Volts. Cables between sensor and ECU isn't broken. I'm guessing it has a faulty ECU.
@@AeroHaage I would unplug the sensor and measure the 5 V wire with it unplugged. Sometimes a bad sensor will short to ground.
@@ToolDemos I measured the voltage with the sensor unplugged.
During crank the sensor shows between 440 and 530 Ohm so the sensor is good.
@@AeroHaage last check I would suggest is check all the other sensors on the same 5v circuit. I know it’s a lot of work, but unplugging each one, one at a time will prove whether you have a short anywhere in the circuit. If the 5v ref comes back up, the sensor you unplugged is shorted.
This is very good but did I miss part 1 disassembly? Is there a part 1?
Yes there is, actually I made a whole playlist: ua-cam.com/play/PLY8nkEQaH2DkuvjWSXq6ozY-lEVdKzqrt.html
@@ToolDemos Thanks I will check it out.
Thx for the very intuitive video! Question - you had the jack under the engine with the mount screws off to get to piston heads from top. Where's a safe place to use the jack to hold the engine from underneath (with mount screws off) when you have to take the oil pan off to remove the pistons/rods/bolts for insertion of new pistons/rods? So far, it seems everybody uses a piece of wood on top of jack pressed against oil pan, so I'm having trouble figuring out best way to hold the engine in place while replacing the pistons/rods (my goal is to not have to remove the engine block)
Best I can think of is hold it from up top with a bar. Looks like this: amzn.to/3Gq0qu5
1:31 I think it would be wise of you to clarify for the not so sure viewers what "it" actually is. head gasket may seam obvious but not to everyone.
I'll keep that in mind, thanks
look at the head gasket you bought
Could you put the link to the cam timing please as I’m struggling to see it
ua-cam.com/video/hTj07pYmYeE/v-deo.htmlsi=Ekpd5mwnEQXxTLxw
hello tool demos,
I accidently mixed up the valve tappets. how do I identify the correct tappets to install them in the correct space. thankyou for your help.
The only way to measure valve lash is to put the valve train back together and measure the clearance between the tappets and the cam. You’ll just have to guess which tappets to put, where. Then torque down all of the cam caps. Now go to each valve and measure the clearance with a feeler gauge.
Measured cold, the lash should be 0.22mm to 0.28mm for intake and 0.27mm to 0.33mm for the exhaust.
Switch around the tappets that were out of range, torque down the cams and measure again. Repeat this procedure until all of your clearances are within specifications.
How do tou install the exhaust camshaft and how do you know whats the right way up?
Look at the back of that camshaft. You’ll see the groove that’s cut into it is not through the center. You want to rotate the cam so that groove is above the top of the head. That way, your locking tool can fit into it. That’s how you know you’re at top dead center.
@@ToolDemos ah alright, is that how it works. Quite clever really as that now make sense. Thank you for explaining this and thank you for the video which is very informative. 😃
@@VinDieselS70 glad to help.
Incredibly! May I have a question? what is the name of the sensor in the center of spark plugs?
As you look at the engine, the sensor towards the right side on top is the camshaft position sensor. More in the middle on top is the cylinder head temperature sensor.
Only one quick question, should i change camshaft sprocket bolts after doing timing?thanks
No, it isn’t necessary.
Good video Steve 👍👍👍
Thanks Theo. ✌️
Question, my friend. I am buying a new head to avoid valve work. All the new heads I see have new cams with them but they don’t have the gears installed. Is there precautions to take when transferring the sprockets to the new head? I was thinking nothing should be at risk really except I figure you need to keep a combo wrench on the camshaft to keep it from moving while torquing down the sprocket bolts.
Excelente trabajo gracias saludos soy de Honduras ya me suscribí tengo un ford focus ses 2008 2.0 lo haré yo mismo
Eso es genial, me alegro de que hayas decidido hacerlo tú mismo. Espero que todo vaya bien para usted.
@@ToolDemos tienes un nuevo suscriptor
the one thing you did not show is when you romove the crank bolt and pully not keyed to the crank is the the step putting it back on with the diomond washer and how much torque it takes to tighten the crank bolt.very crucial step.every thing else is great job.
Thanks. The timing portion, including the balancer can be found here: ua-cam.com/video/hTj07pYmYeE/v-deo.htmlsi=q6Vw6bfBM_yD1RWa
The problem with all these transverse engines is they are un-evenly cooled. The front side gets good airflow but the back-side get very little. Consequently they have a heat differential from the front to back. Coupled with a high temperature thermostat (for emission controls), it is only a matter of time before the head gasket leaks. A possible solution is probably a lower temperature thermostat and a thicker oil.
That’s a possibility.
Great video. I am in the middle of replacing the head after an overheat. The rebuilt head I received has the single trigger that you call the bump in the intake cam...my original has a 6 trigger disc though. Everything I see shows the 1 trigger ans the right part for this 2008 Ford Focus SE (PZEV). Are these interchangeable? I did order the head and provided a VIN number. I am not able to find much info, so i figure I would pose this question here and either you or someone who may have experienced this can hopefully answer. Obviously I want to do this job once, LOL.
No, the car won’t run without the correct cam. If you use the wrong trigger wheel, the PCM won’t know when to fire the injectors or the spark plugs.
Thank you for the quick reply! I'll have to return the head for the right one this week...more delays...par for the course with this project.
@@TorosZeibari I hope it goes well.
Would it just be easier to pull the motor to do all this?
No, I don’t think so. This job isn’t all that hard.
Where is the water temperature sensor in that motor? Any help
Ford has a different name for it. They call it the cylinder head temperature sensor. It’s located between the number two and three ignition coils right on top of the cylinder head. When you look at the valve cover you’ll see a wire going through a rubber cover, that’s it.
Where can I buy camshaft caps online cause I can't find them anywhere
Not possible. They are machined as part of the head. If you need new caps, you need a new head.
How do you line up thepinton
@@JoeUlka it’s part of the timing tool kit that you need to use on this engine. You could see me install it on the first video of the series.
What if the cam plates were brand new? In which order would you have placed them? I think those cam plates are similar and you can place them anywhere.
Correct if you had a new timing chain and cam sprockets, you would line up the cams first, and then install the chain and then torque down the bolts on the sprockets.
Is this a common issue for these? I somewhat recently bought one of these with a 2.3. I discovered water in the oil. I took the head gasket off and discovered the gasket was not blown. There's two wires at the bottom of the intake that I cannot get off. I can't figure out the clip, but I lifted the block to find a double layered metal gasket. What should I be looking for here? Did these come from the factory with metal gaskets? Or am I just finding someone else's attempt to fix the same problem? The car was very clean and easy to break down for 217,000 miles.
I’m not sure how common this issue is. Yes, multi-layered steel gaskets are OE on this engine. It’s likely that you’ll have to resurface the head.
@@ToolDemos Thank you so much for the reply. I thought as much. It's actually a Mazda5, but I'm pretty sure it's the same engine. It even says FoMoCo on it. Your videos are excellent and thorough. I really appreciate what you do.
thank very much for helme
Glad it was helpful
Does the crankshaft sensor lineup with the 9th tooth thanks @tooldemos
Honestly, I didn’t even look at it. Just trusted the alignment tool to do its job. Sorry.
i have 2012 ford focus counterclockwise any it luck half way why
I’m trying to understand your question Freddy. If you turned your duratec engine counterclockwise with a wrench and then the engine got stuck, it’s very likely that the timing chain slipped. That happens because the timing chain tensioner is only designed to keep tension on the chain if it turns clockwise. The chain will go slack if you turn it counterclockwise and then the chain can slip off of the sprocket or skip some teeth and end up with the wrong timing.
If that is what happened to your engine, you need to reset the timing.
It's the same process for a 2.5 liter engine?
No, the 2.5 is different.
Thanks man. Actually yes it's is the same engine. Ford Duratec 2.0/2.3 and 2.5, i'm ready research on the service manual. Very good engine, in my case it's mounted in a 2017 T6 Ford Ranger
I’ll grant you that they are very similar, parts don’t interchange. It’s good that you’re checking service info.
How many miles was on this?
120k or so
thank you for this info, i've been looking for this head but no luck. where can i get one cause im from South Africa.
i'd appreciateif i could get a link where i can purchase. thank you
Here’s Ford’s link. I don’t know if they sell in South Africa: parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/cylinder-head-assy-7805105-1?pdp=y
I'm using a mahle head gasket, the directions say to install dry, but to use rtv only when directed. You say ford directs you to do so? Would I follow that directive or mahles directive...
Nathan hurt himself in confusion
It's super effective!!!
Good question. Here’s my take on it: Mahle designed their head gaskets to be installed dry. So those instructions are for all of the head gaskets that they make. Ford designed this engine where the head gasket also contacts that timing cover. The RTV will keep oil from leaking out of the timing cover, so I think that portion of the head gasket isn’t there for sealing purposes only for correct spacing.
@Tool Demos thank you! And thank you for sharing your information on here!
Hi I've known your new Chanel and I don't understand English at all can you please tell me how many Nm are these cylinder head bolts. I have ford focus 2008 1.8 benzin
Thank u so much ☺️
I’m glad it helped.
Thank you sir. I have a ford focus tdci 1.8 2002. I love my care. I cannot sell it
That’s great! Keep ‘er on the road.
Ne video. I see you use Ultra Grey on the timing cover. What are your thoughts on Motorcraft TA-357? I’m about to do a 3.5 water pump and don’t like the short time frame given to get the initial torque. Thanks
I’ve used ultra grey for years without problems, but it’s not a perfect product. It sets up slow and there are reports of it failing. A few months ago, I started using RTV products from Three Bond. It’s made for professionals and sets up quicker. So far, so good. One difference is that it’s less viscous, which can make it tougher to work with.
I tell you this because I don’t have experience with the Motorcraft product, but I imagine it’s more like Three Bond, or even made by them.
Hi I've known your new Chanel and I don't understand English at all can you please tell me how many Nm are these cylinder head bolts
1: 5 Nm
2: 15 Nm
3: 45 Nm
4: 90°
5: 90°
@@ToolDemos Dankeschön
Hello there!
I have a Volvo V50 1.8 petrol engine year 2005 which is originally a Ford engine and look exactly like this engine you have here.
I will use the torque for the cylinder head as you showed here.
I need replace the piston rings and I couldn't find the right dimensions for the rings for standard pistons even the dealership couldn't find the for me. I also need the torque for piston arm bolts which sit on the crack shaft.
Can you help me with this 1.8L ford engine please?
Thank in advance
Hi Sami, to get all of the technical info I used for the repair, I bought a three-day subscription to Ford’s factory service information. I printed out the procedures that I needed for the cylinder head replacement. So, I don’t have access to the info you need.
The website is www.motorcraftservice.com/ - a 3 day subscription gets you all service info for every Ford vehicle. It costs about $22, well worth the money; especially when you are going that deep into the engine.
@@ToolDemos
Thank you so much about these rich information ☺️
You did good job in this video 👍
@@lovesoul30 you’re welcome Sami.
Oh man, I have the exact same car and engine but a late 2005 so it's a MY 2006. I have an inlet valve stuck open so need to open up to see what's what. Luckily the valve isn't interfering with the piston or anything but I'm debating replacing the head with a new refurb one.
This video is worth its weight in Gold.
Hi I've known your new Chanel and I don't understand English at all can you please tell me how many Nm are these cylinder head bolts
I have a 86 ford mustang with a 2.3 in it need a head gasket . Is 2500.00. to much to fix it
The job itself pays 5.9 hours. Add in parts and fluids it’s not all that expensive. Are they charging for rebuilding/machining the head?
@@ToolDemos ok thank you. Sounds about right. Thanks
I love it tnx bro
Welcome to the channel, I appreciate you.
Are these interference engines?
They are non-interference.
@@ToolDemos Thank you
the holes line up uncompressed, what happens to all the b.s. extra material on that gasket when you compress it and it gets larger, there should probably be a class action against these kinds of companies
Can you please come fix my 2009 Ford focus it won't stop over heating I have done all I can to fix it and nothing seems to be working I am a single mom with one son alone with no help it would make my day of u could do that for me please
I wish I could.
You never mentioned where the pistons should be I seen a visual but you never showed how to time the crank before installing the head.
I installed the tool for that in the removal video: ua-cam.com/video/v-Tmt9wlIY4/v-deo.htmlsi=KtND3jPZUP3VidPG
You need it to set the top and bottom to #1 TDC.
Mondeo mk4 2.3
😭thank you so much.....
You’re welcome.
i just lowered the engine to get the damn heat shrows in easier
Another gauge would be IQ/ass...need to be smart enough & have enough strength to complete tasks.
Yup, very true.
peccato non ce in italiano grazie
Se potessi parlare italiano, lo farei.
wasnt able to see you tourque the crankshaft pulley dou..
He did not tell us what happened after 3 trips to machine shop!
They found that the valve seat was slightly out of round. It’s fixed now, no leak down.
I wish you could download the manual. I live in Iran and unfortunately I am not able to buy a repair manual. Unfortunately, Iran's Muslim politicians have destroyed people's lives and taken them hostage.
That sucks! Try this link: charm.li/Ford/2006/Focus%20L4-2.0L%20VIN%20N/Repair%20and%20Diagnosis/Engine%2C%20Cooling%20and%20Exhaust/Engine/Cylinder%20Head%20Assembly/Service%20and%20Repair/Cylinder%20Head%20Replacement/
I hope that works for you.
Ine
I absolutely hate this engine. Ford lost my business after this one
I don’t blame you.