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Watching this video reminded me that I also have an inexpensive Japanese plane which my brother gave me about 20 yrs ago when he came back from a duty tour in Japan. At the time I thought it was cute but not really useful, so it's sat on a shelf in my shop ever since. I just dug it out of the clutter, cleaned it up and set it up as shown -- and it cuts amazingly well! Thanks for a great and useful video!
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I have a lot of experience with Stanley and Lie Nielsen planes, Japanese chisels and saws. I was always impressed with the Japanese tools. After watching your video I ordered one from Amazon US $65 free shipping with Prime. Arrived in 3 days. I was so excited. Out of the box, I set the blade at its lightest and took beautiful wispy shavings. I can't imagine how much better it will cut after going through your adjustments. Thank you!
Nice video ! You're doing it the right way, and the result is good ! Couple of tips I learned over the years(I'm from Japan). -The body adjustment is the absolute key , more so than sharpening . You're doing a great job there! -If you do the Ura-dashi, you could save time when flattening the back and make it easier to get it perfectly flat. -Using all the way to the edges of the whetstone will help keeping the stone flat for much longer. Kuromakus stay flat longer than a lot of others, but it'll still make a big difference . The blade can go over the edges if your hands are steady . -Maybe you know it already, but if you want to plane surfaces wider than the blade, it helps to slightly round off the edges of the blade(the corners) to prevent the blade from biting into the wood. There're few guys showing there master sharpening skills on UA-cam, too . Search words like 巣板(Suita) works well.
Thanks Adrian, your excellent video on Japanese Kanna had me convinced to switch over completely from using old English hand plane! I've just ordered 2 x Kanna from Osaka (1) 42mm and (2) 60mm, and they had just arrived Taipei a few days ago (2019 Jan, 31). I'll give myself at least 1 year of consistent usage and constant tuning on these affordable ones before moving on to the more expensive ones. I'll tune these Kannas on glass to ensure that the blade and body stay squared at all times. I've also ordered 12000 grit whetstones from Poland for better finishes. Your video inspires me, thank you! (Robust Chen, Taipei, Taiwan)
Thank you! Good luck with them and nice projects to make! I too, got the 65 mm recently and need to tune that too. Also, I will still wait before spending more bucks on a kanna :)
Hi Adrian, bought the plane with the 65 mm blade at Dieter Schmid's store. Honing is done already. I let the plane sit in my workshop for a month. Thanks to your video I am now able to proceed to the next steps. Very clear instructions. Thank you very much for sharing.
That's cool! Glad you find it useful! Mine sit about 5 months :)) And kept the same twist all this time, although I had a lot of humidity changes, so probably would have worked even sooner. I too wanna buy the 65 one, I think the one from amazon us, in a couple of months. I've started with the 42, was not so fun, very lightweight, then this 50 is amazing, probably 65 is even more fun :)
I was able to finish my kanna today :-)) Cost me the whole day but it was worth it. Had to take a look at Toshio Odates book though because I wasn't aware how to prepare the sole (two points vs. three points). If you ever have difficulties on tuning a plane I recommend the three part series by Sumokan (ua-cam.com/video/QQytHrqMsug/v-deo.html). Still I'm glad that you posted your video because it briefly explains the whole process
Cool, congrats! I was too in doubt how many contact points. Being my only very used japanese plane I've opted for three, cause...I can easily change to two if I want :) From 2 to 3 you loose some material on the sole.
THANK YOU for posting this video - very informative about the important steps to setting one of these planes for use. I have been thinking of buying the exact same plane, but wasn't 100% about their setup (why I didn't want to buy a more expensive plane). As far as not having more sharpening stones, that would not probably ever stop a true Japanese craftsman from work. The music was great too by the way!!
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Excellent video Adrian, thanks. One tip I learned from an older and wiser craftsman a long time ago: Any time you sweep your hand along the sole of a plane, sweep from back to front. That way it doesn't matter where the blade is positioned and you establish a habit that helps prevent accidental injury if/when you sweep the sole while using the plane. (Not saying the way you did it was wrong or unsafe, just passing along a tip!)
Thank you Captain! :) Yes, I said to myself many times when editing the video that it looks like I am grabbing the blade with the fingers, even if it was retracted, but had no other scene filmed :) Indeed, not to be done like so anymore, cause will become a habit!
This is really sound advice especially for people who think they are buying a plane at a couple of hundred pounds and thinking it will work straight out of the pack. this is clear, concise and accurate
Hey Adrian, I have two tips for other new to jp planes. Like you I am still a student with jp planes and I bought a similar plane from another store. 1. Whenever you buy a wooden body plane, let it rest for a week in the environment it will be stored. I keep mine in my house even though I work in my garage to keep the humidity more consistent. When I fist got it, I set it up right away and had to keep tuning the sole. If I would of just waited a week then most of the movement would of happen and I could if only tuned once and been done. 2. Always check and make sure the sole is square to where the plane iron sits. I got a little aggressive with sanding the sole that I unknowingly sanded out of square. This made my iron come out crooked, At first I thought this was because it was cheap and maybe the iron slot was out of square, which could of been the case but most likely my fault. Anyways, the point is, once you have the iron fit to the body, DON'T TOUCH IT! Always adjust the sole or sides to bring it back to square, it doesn't take much to ruin the fit of the iron. I polish/sharpen mine to 12k(it was a present) and the mirror finish and cut is outstanding! Keep up the great vids!!
Thanks David, your comment is well welcomed! It slipped me to mention in the clip about body rest :) Thanks. Indeed I let mine quite few weeks before tuning it.
Do you have any advice on how to dislodge a blade from a plane? Mine was delivered wedged so completely I have not managed to get it out no matter which method and how much force I used.
@@AGH331 I imagine it might be because the conditions were more dry where it was shipped from than where you are. If you put it in your refrigerator for a few hours it might make the wood and metal both shrink enough to loosen the blade. I've never tried this but I imagine it's worth a shot.
@@michaelferrin7109 Thanks for your reply, but I tried this (and many other things already), without success. I had an exchange with an experienced Japanese carpenter about this issue (including pictures), and he said the one I got was just trash.
Thanks for this.... I live in Japan and am currently doing all manner of wood butchery around my home. Haven't reset my Kanna for years because I didn't know how. Many thanks ;-)
You`ve got nice results with this kana. I had bed luck with mine because I took more wood from the bed of the blade than necessary. So , I had to bend more the ears of the chip breaker in order to compensate the error. It works okay now. I`ve read about a practice to curve the edge of the blade by lightly striking with a small pointed hammer right over the mild iron area . Never tried for fear of not hitting the hard steel .Maybe I should try it. Nice work, Adrian1
Thanks! The best way to compensate that is too add shims of paper, normal one or cigarette paper if there is too small space, or even veneer on that bed. Glue them then fine tune it again by scraping it if necessary
Nice work, thank you for sharing. I have been interested in trying one of these planes but didn’t have a clue about setting them up. I think I’m going to try it out.
I have allowed green wood to sit in my shop to dry/acclimate. I used a scale that measures tenths of a gram. I would weigh everyday. It was fascinating to register the information. When the weight stabilized I used the wood for small box construction. The technique worked well. Weighing the plane body after purchase would be interesting as well . Thanks for the video.
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Great job. I bought a bench planer from harbor freight a couple of weeks ago and the table I was working on, long story short the table turned into a planer and the planer turned into a piece of wood
I just bought a small Japanese plane using one of your links and it’s not working well. Now I know what to do to fix it! Thanks so much for another amazing video!
Nice tune up, those shavings will get finer over time, if you wet the surface, let it dry, then use this kanna you will get a polished finish. Nice work.
Do you know the maker name of the plane? Just for my culture :) On the shop where I bought it doesnt mention this. Glad my vid was helpful! Thanks for watching!
This Kakuri I see it everywhere on amazons. I've tried to identify the Japanese symbols on my plane labels, not sure If I managed to see if they are the same :)) Anyway mine is from here, first pic www.fine-tools.com/jhobm.html Indeed, it's very good plane, I can compare it to the Veritas western one :) Very easy to plane with one is sharpened. I cannot compare it to a more expensive one made by famous jp blacksmiths, cause I haven't put my hands one none till now :)
Adrian Preda Sorry for my late reply! Ah, yours in the picture is a different brand. The symbol in red and gold below "TRADE MARK" is 勝. It can be pronounced as "kachi." The two symbols below that are 本銀 (hon gin). The characters on the blade are unclear. I recently got some polishing compound to use with a leather strop after my diamond stones. I hope to get super thin plane shavings like you did🍀😁
Great video! I bought a plane that looks almost identical apart from the wood type and I am already amazed at how good it is out of the box (it is my first plane to be fair) but I am even more excited to sett it up correctly . Love your content!
This is the secret right here, finding half assed made cheap tools and bringing them to a high quality level of tools with a few adjustments at home. This is how you save serious money in this hobby
You should write a book about it, or at least publish an ebook. I'd honestly buy it just to save money in the long run. Complete noob right here, just getting into it.
Aktually its not that special more Like Japanese Tradition There is no Japanese Master who would get his Plane setup by someone else ... And the Quality of Cutting Tools is like 80% the Steel how good the Steel is If its forged well and the Heat treat and Tempering No Matter how Sharp you can Grind your Blade if its dull after half a Cut you will never take a good Cut what you need is a good Quality Tool and a good Setup
What a great video! In Japan they have contests for the thinnest shaving...anything under 12 microns goes on to the finals...jajaja. Guess I have any excuse now to purchase one of those fancy hammers. Again, Thank you for taking the time to publish this video!!!
Ho AP, wee question, I've always tried to maintain a completely flat sole to my planes but (at just over 6 minutes into the video) I see you use a cabinet scraper to hollow the sole of this plane, why is this?
That s how they di it on jp planes. You neee just 2-3 contact point, abt 1cm wide, in front of the plane, in front of the blade, and optional, for trueing, on the back
Thanks for your informative and clear video. For a suggestion, I would say if you explain what you are doing instead of writing it, we would not miss what you are showing. thanks again! Guy
Thanks Sonny! Yes is good, but normally you do that thing with Camelia Oil. I would have use it too, but is barely visible on the camera. Pencil works well too but becomes messy in the end :)
Thanks Joe! Hope you will find it useful. It's a nice plane to have in addition to western ones. I've found it easier to use it in some situations than the western ones. But I don't find myself ever substituting to full japanese ones
Hello Adrian, i just saw your set up japanes plane and sharpening blade with shapton water stone ceramic models and atoma 400 grit diamond stone, my question is are you happy with this combination shapton stone and atoma diamond lapping for whaterstone? I wathed lotha review about stone litle bit confused, i was thinking shapton glassstone hr and with atamo lapping but 120 or 400 grit one. I am so curious about your experience with sharpening tools its really razor sharpining? Thanks.
I really like these I have now. The 1000 one is my favorite, works very quick. I never tried the glass one. The 8k is enough for me to produce a workable finish.
That space there is useless and needs to be hollowed. You can scrape that too, but I prefer to chisel out more material to be sure even in time when I flatten the sole, that will be still hollowed.
Adrian Preda sure. They have scraper planes but they’re like $150+ and take time to setup themselves. From what I’ve seen there extremely effective tools but for some initial Kanna setup, a sharp blade works remarkably well. You just need an adequate way to clamp the body down while scraping.
I see, this kind of scraper planes, tachi kanna, at the shop where I bought the big one, is 95 euro/~120usd the 30mm wide version. Ridiculously two times the price my plane :) They worth buying when you have too a more better or more kanna's.
Hey Adrian! Nice Vid. I have the exact same plane from finetools.com, also my first... have been using it for a year now and feel I'm slowly getting the hang of it. Thinking of maybe getting a higher class 60-70mm kanna. Here bit.ly/2GM9kSE you can find a scraper plane for a little bit less. They're also good for finishing really hard woods not just the sole of a normal kanna... your mini workbench vid also inspired me to build one, thx for that! Only thing I noticed was I thought your secondary bevel on the chipbreaker ws quite wide, could have been the video though...
I have a question: when flatering the bottom of the plane you did it with the blade already in place. It seems that you sanded the blade with the bottom together (at 5:18" ) and spoiled the previous work of sharpening the blade. Is that correct or I didn´t understand what is going on?
At 4:54 I wrote that the blade is 1.5 mm away back. This way, they body will remain tensioned, as in normal working condition. The blade in place there can micro-twist/bend the body, that is why when I flatten I put the blade in, but also as minimum as I can, not to sand the bevel.
I was always taught to use the whole whetstone when sharpening a blade to make sure it stays level and even. using small parts of it makes it less planar
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I have just bought the same plane from Fine Tools, mine has arrived with the blade about 3mm wider than the throat? i.e when the blade is fully seated, the left and right tip of the blade are seated on wood, and seem to clog. Should I be correcting this by filing away some of the wood itself?
So when you buy these the blade has to be sharpened and it doesn't even fit in the block right? Is there a place I can buy one that is already ready to go?
This channel will help you. ua-cam.com/video/rNqV4Ht64vg/v-deo.html And this is a actual dai making by a professional. ua-cam.com/video/9kBbe89YgyU/v-deo.html
Mine is from a german shop, they don't have affiliate links, I just wrote the shop name in description. I've identified some similar ones on the Us amazon, and put the links there. The 65 mm blade one I will get it also soon :)
Got a new kanna. Ran blades over a wet stone and when I put them back in the blade and chip break it slipped all the way through or the blade would extend out about a half inch. Is that right? First kanna and I am not sure. If it is wrong how can I correct the problem?
I wrote someone here lately, you can look for the comment, it can happen this, just add to the blade's bed on the body some paper or veneer to "add" new material back
I think I have a very similar plane. Tell me, have you had success with this planing hardwoods like maple, oak, walnut, sapele, etc? I get the same results as you on pine, cedar and balsa but it seems like it is temperamental with hardwoods. Is it the angle of the blade/angle it sits in the body or am I doing something wrong? Also have you had any success using it for edge grains?
There are also kannas for hardwoods, they have a bigger bed/blade angle, about 50 deg or more, vs this one that I believe is 40 deg if not mistaken. I did some planing too with this one on hardwood, mainly ash, walnut, maple, but with very thin shavings and the chipbreaker set very very close to the blade, about 0.1-0.2mm away as those woods presents a lot of weird grain directions. Also, either way you will not get those nice paper like shaving with hardwoods because of the porous structure of those woods, vs the conifer woods. Hardwood jp planes with higher angle blade you will usually find more expensive, I doubt there are available in the 50-70$ range as those general ones. Sometimes I do use it on the shooting board on end grain, but mainly when my western plane's blade is dull :) works great also
I think I have one just like yours. I am having a hard time getting it sharp enough for the papercuts. Did yours have a secondary bevel when you got it? Mine did. How can I get a consistent angle for the secondary bevel across stones (BTW, my stones are only of 400, 1000 and 3000 grit - not up to your 5k)?
No, it didn't had a secondary bevel, that's weird. Normally japanese blades should not have it because will put more force/shock on the hard steel, the brittle one, so will not have a way for the shock to discard towards the soft steel. You can get an acceptable working sharpness with 3k too. For consistent bevel by hand is hard at the beginning, needs more try. I barely began to be able to do it, and still not top. When the bevel becomes too round I put the blade on the veritas honing guide, its not the best solution, because of the jp blade shape, but with more care setting it up does the job.
That Stone Angelim I see it has a more prominent texture. But beside that it is was more harder, 14000N on Janka scale vs let's say oak 4500N, and it is even denser than water. I would have noticed those when working with it :) Iroko is african.
another great video !! Thank you Adrian . I have a weird question I 'd like to put in if I may ... I have been interested for some time in building one of these ' kanas" (hope thats right ) but have been unable to find a place where I can buy Japanese style thick plane Irons. Any tips ????
Hi Matt, thanks! Search the name of the shop I wrote in the description, I remember I saw they sell a kit for jp plane making. Otherwise check on Instagram, there are a lot of guys making japanese planes, and you may get some info from their builds. I'm really not aware of any other sources for plane making, maybe to buy direct from japan
Yes, water. Actually only water you can use to water stones, oils and greasy stuff will make them unusable, or other chemical liquids. These are Shapton waterstones, they don't need to be soaked for several minutes into water before using them, they are splash & go, so only spraying is enough. Just the rough stones up to 1000 usually I keep them couple of seconds in water cause before using cause they are soaking more than a spray can deliver
Just asking did you hone the whole blade on the back or just the front part because it looked like you just did the front of it and thank you for the video very informative ✌🏽
Just the front, like 10mm - 1/2", but as you see I go a bit inside too, with gentle passes, not to make the hone like a "rebate", don't find the exact word🙂
Yes. It comes with the blade "almost" sharpened, also the body is relatively flat to make some shavings but will work very badly. The worst part is that the blade bed is very tight when new, you will force it to go, and it may brake the wood. To use the plane at its best you need to tune it
I own a small wood block plane that works great. Bought one like your video and cant get the blade to engage the wood on the pull stroke? Really weird as the blade is below the level of the block and sharp enuf to shave with. What the heck am I doing wrong?
I followed a similar approach to your process here on my own small kanna. I ran into two issues: At the time the back/underside of the blade reached better contact with the wood, it would also protrude from the mouth using only light hand pressure. This is pretty bad and a little disappointing. At this point, I also can't fit the chip breaker because of two factors; either the chip breaker angle is too high, or because the pin is crooked/bent, it exerts pressure on the right- and leftmost sides. I'm not sure whether to scrape material off the pin or make the 'legs' shorter on the chip breaker, or both.
It can happen even with a new plane, either in time, due to wood movement that the blade will protude more, so in this case you need to add/glue like a shim on that blade rest on the body. In order by thickness I suggest: cigarettes paper roll, normal office paper or even veneer. I did this to some of my planes too. Regarding the pin, try to fix first the blade bed, then check the new situation. If the pin is tight there you can try to file it
New video tuning a very very tiny japanese plane ua-cam.com/video/5_uJVs6JJjo/v-deo.html
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Super
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Watching this video reminded me that I also have an inexpensive Japanese plane which my brother gave me about 20 yrs ago when he came back from a duty tour in Japan. At the time I thought it was cute but not really useful, so it's sat on a shelf in my shop ever since. I just dug it out of the clutter, cleaned it up and set it up as shown -- and it cuts amazingly well! Thanks for a great and useful video!
Nice to hear that! Glad you found it useful! Thanks!
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I have a lot of experience with Stanley and Lie Nielsen planes, Japanese chisels and saws. I was always impressed with the Japanese tools.
After watching your video I ordered one from Amazon US $65 free shipping with Prime. Arrived in 3 days. I was so excited. Out of the box, I set the blade at its lightest and took beautiful wispy shavings. I can't imagine how much better it will cut after going through your adjustments.
Thank you!
Nice video ! You're doing it the right way, and the result is good !
Couple of tips I learned over the years(I'm from Japan).
-The body adjustment is the absolute key , more so than sharpening . You're doing a great job there!
-If you do the Ura-dashi, you could save time when flattening the back and make it easier to get it perfectly flat.
-Using all the way to the edges of the whetstone will help keeping the stone flat for much longer. Kuromakus stay flat longer than a lot of others, but it'll still make a big difference . The blade can go over the edges if your hands are steady .
-Maybe you know it already, but if you want to plane surfaces wider than the blade, it helps to slightly round off the edges of the blade(the corners) to prevent the blade from biting into the wood.
There're few guys showing there master sharpening skills on UA-cam, too . Search words like 巣板(Suita) works well.
Expected flying plane. Ended up watching whole video. Not disappointed.
One of the better reviews-and no unnecessary faffing around!
New subscriber, right here!!
Simplest video I've found 👏. I didn't need a 50 min video to tune my $50 Kanna, some of us learn by making mistakes.
Thanks Adrian, your excellent video on Japanese Kanna had me convinced to switch over completely from using old English hand plane! I've just ordered 2 x Kanna from Osaka (1) 42mm and (2) 60mm, and they had just arrived Taipei a few days ago (2019 Jan, 31). I'll give myself at least 1 year of consistent usage and constant tuning on these affordable ones before moving on to the more expensive ones. I'll tune these Kannas on glass to ensure that the blade and body stay squared at all times. I've also ordered 12000 grit whetstones from Poland for better finishes. Your video inspires me, thank you! (Robust Chen, Taipei, Taiwan)
Thank you! Good luck with them and nice projects to make!
I too, got the 65 mm recently and need to tune that too. Also, I will still wait before spending more bucks on a kanna :)
I'm surprised that you eyeballed everything. You even sharpened the blade without a jig, that's awesome! You have my respect, sir.
Hi Adrian, bought the plane with the 65 mm blade at Dieter Schmid's store. Honing is done already. I let the plane sit in my workshop for a month. Thanks to your video I am now able to proceed to the next steps. Very clear instructions. Thank you very much for sharing.
That's cool! Glad you find it useful! Mine sit about 5 months :)) And kept the same twist all this time, although I had a lot of humidity changes, so probably would have worked even sooner. I too wanna buy the 65 one, I think the one from amazon us, in a couple of months. I've started with the 42, was not so fun, very lightweight, then this 50 is amazing, probably 65 is even more fun :)
I was able to finish my kanna today :-)) Cost me the whole day but it was worth it. Had to take a look at Toshio Odates book though because I wasn't aware how to prepare the sole (two points vs. three points). If you ever have difficulties on tuning a plane I recommend the three part series by Sumokan (ua-cam.com/video/QQytHrqMsug/v-deo.html). Still I'm glad that you posted your video because it briefly explains the whole process
Cool, congrats! I was too in doubt how many contact points. Being my only very used japanese plane I've opted for three, cause...I can easily change to two if I want :) From 2 to 3 you loose some material on the sole.
THANK YOU for posting this video - very informative about the important steps to setting one of these planes for use. I have been thinking of buying the exact same plane, but wasn't 100% about their setup (why I didn't want to buy a more expensive plane). As far as not having more sharpening stones, that would not probably ever stop a true Japanese craftsman from work. The music was great too by the way!!
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Excellent video Adrian, thanks. One tip I learned from an older and wiser craftsman a long time ago: Any time you sweep your hand along the sole of a plane, sweep from back to front. That way it doesn't matter where the blade is positioned and you establish a habit that helps prevent accidental injury if/when you sweep the sole while using the plane. (Not saying the way you did it was wrong or unsafe, just passing along a tip!)
Thank you Captain! :) Yes, I said to myself many times when editing the video that it looks like I am grabbing the blade with the fingers, even if it was retracted, but had no other scene filmed :) Indeed, not to be done like so anymore, cause will become a habit!
It's amazing how that thing can fly. The Japanese are ahead of tech
I'm not surprised you can fly for how HIGH you are right now
@@nickkammer6832 r/wooosh
rip
@@medium.kahuna dammit i dont get da joke!!!! May u explain brother
@@nickkammer6832 wtf you talking about. That thing sucks. Use a western plane and yoyll realise how shit this is.
I set up my inexpensive Japanese plane following your example! Mine cuts so sweet! Thank you Adrian.
Thank you Robert, glad you find the video useful!
This video was the best all around guide tuneing up a Japanese hand plane before use.
This is really sound advice especially for people who think they are buying a plane at a couple of hundred pounds and thinking it will work straight out of the pack.
this is clear, concise and accurate
Im dumb and I was waiting for flying plane model
Me too.
Same story
LOL, me too
Right here
Same
Hey Adrian, I have two tips for other new to jp planes. Like you I am still a student with jp planes and I bought a similar plane from another store.
1. Whenever you buy a wooden body plane, let it rest for a week in the environment it will be stored. I keep mine in my house even though I work in my garage to keep the humidity more consistent. When I fist got it, I set it up right away and had to keep tuning the sole. If I would of just waited a week then most of the movement would of happen and I could if only tuned once and been done.
2. Always check and make sure the sole is square to where the plane iron sits. I got a little aggressive with sanding the sole that I unknowingly sanded out of square. This made my iron come out crooked, At first I thought this was because it was cheap and maybe the iron slot was out of square, which could of been the case but most likely my fault. Anyways, the point is, once you have the iron fit to the body, DON'T TOUCH IT! Always adjust the sole or sides to bring it back to square, it doesn't take much to ruin the fit of the iron.
I polish/sharpen mine to 12k(it was a present) and the mirror finish and cut is outstanding! Keep up the great vids!!
Thanks David, your comment is well welcomed!
It slipped me to mention in the clip about body rest :) Thanks. Indeed I let mine quite few weeks before tuning it.
Ha I goofed my kanna resorted to cutting the blade to thinking about buying a new kanna and restart from fresh
Do you have any advice on how to dislodge a blade from a plane? Mine was delivered wedged so completely I have not managed to get it out no matter which method and how much force I used.
@@AGH331 I imagine it might be because the conditions were more dry where it was shipped from than where you are. If you put it in your refrigerator for a few hours it might make the wood and metal both shrink enough to loosen the blade. I've never tried this but I imagine it's worth a shot.
@@michaelferrin7109 Thanks for your reply, but I tried this (and many other things already), without success. I had an exchange with an experienced Japanese carpenter about this issue (including pictures), and he said the one I got was just trash.
Thanks for this.... I live in Japan and am currently doing all manner of wood butchery around my home.
Haven't reset my Kanna for years because I didn't know how.
Many thanks ;-)
Hi Jerry, glad it was helpful this video! Thanks for watching!
This was so much better than what I thought it was going to be. I was expecting a toy model plane. This was much more entertaining.
You`ve got nice results with this kana. I had bed luck with mine because I took more wood from the bed of the blade than necessary. So , I had to bend more the ears of the chip breaker in order to compensate the error. It works okay now. I`ve read about a practice to curve the edge of the blade by lightly striking with a small pointed hammer right over the mild iron area .
Never tried for fear of not hitting the hard steel .Maybe I should try it. Nice work, Adrian1
Thanks! The best way to compensate that is too add shims of paper, normal one or cigarette paper if there is too small space, or even veneer on that bed. Glue them then fine tune it again by scraping it if necessary
Nice work, thank you for sharing. I have been interested in trying one of these planes but didn’t have a clue about setting them up. I think I’m going to try it out.
Thank you!!!!!!!!! Just got one in the mail today and now see I’ve got some work to do
I have allowed green wood to sit in my shop to dry/acclimate. I used a scale that measures tenths of a gram. I would weigh everyday. It was fascinating to register the information. When the weight stabilized I used the wood for small box construction. The technique worked well. Weighing the plane body after purchase would be interesting as well .
Thanks for the video.
Very nice results! I'd be interested to see the shaving during the process to see which part of the tuning improves which problem.
Japanese Kanna are great tools, but as Adrian has demonstrated they require skill to fine tune. Superb tutorial. Thank you.
Thank you Sean!
A lot of good techniques for preparing my new, inexpensive Kanna plane. Flattening the chip breaker worked really well. Thanks
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Adrian, your videos are the best. Please keep them coming.
+Jason Robinson Thank you!😁
Im agree ! 👍👍👍🤗
Great job. I bought a bench planer from harbor freight a couple of weeks ago and the table I was working on, long story short the table turned into a planer and the planer turned into a piece of wood
I just bought a small Japanese plane using one of your links and it’s not working well. Now I know what to do to fix it! Thanks so much for another amazing video!
Nice tune up, those shavings will get finer over time, if you wet the surface, let it dry, then use this kanna you will get a polished finish. Nice work.
Interesting, good to know, thank for the tip, I will try it!
Thanks so much for this video. I got a kanna plane for Christmas and I look forward to finally setting it up and putting it to use.
Thank you also for watching! Hope you will find it useful and enjoy quickly your kanna :)
I got the exact same plane in Japan last year and haven't taken it out of the package yet. Your video will help me set it up. Great stuff!
Do you know the maker name of the plane? Just for my culture :) On the shop where I bought it doesnt mention this. Glad my vid was helpful! Thanks for watching!
This Kakuri I see it everywhere on amazons. I've tried to identify the Japanese symbols on my plane labels, not sure If I managed to see if they are the same :)) Anyway mine is from here, first pic www.fine-tools.com/jhobm.html Indeed, it's very good plane, I can compare it to the Veritas western one :) Very easy to plane with one is sharpened. I cannot compare it to a more expensive one made by famous jp blacksmiths, cause I haven't put my hands one none till now :)
Adrian Preda Sorry for my late reply! Ah, yours in the picture is a different brand. The symbol in red and gold below "TRADE MARK" is 勝. It can be pronounced as "kachi."
The two symbols below that are 本銀 (hon gin). The characters on the blade are unclear. I recently got some polishing compound to use with a leather strop after my diamond stones. I hope to get super thin plane shavings like you did🍀😁
Excellent job Adrian! I hope you enjoy it
Thank you Mik! I believe will become a very used tool in the shop :)
Excellent video, Adrien! I’m almost convinced to buy one for myself
Thank you Marco! Do enjoy it :)
I just got my first Japanese plane for my birthday, the small 42mm one, and this video really helped me in getting it setup. Thank you!
Oh, thanks and Happy Birthday! With the 42mm I've started also. I'm glad that helped you!
Do you need your receipt? ...Allrighty let me just plane this off for ya.
Underrated comment of the week
So glad I checked the comments before I made my own receipt joke, well played from a year in the future
Great Video on the "out of the box tuning" that should be done - thank you
Great video! I bought a plane that looks almost identical apart from the wood type and I am already amazed at how good it is out of the box (it is my first plane to be fair) but I am even more excited to sett it up correctly . Love your content!
This is the secret right here, finding half assed made cheap tools and bringing them to a high quality level of tools with a few adjustments at home.
This is how you save serious money in this hobby
You should write a book about it, or at least publish an ebook. I'd honestly buy it just to save money in the long run. Complete noob right here, just getting into it.
Doesn't look half-assed to me.
Aktually its not that special more Like Japanese Tradition
There is no Japanese Master who would get his Plane setup by someone else ...
And the Quality of Cutting Tools is like 80% the Steel how good the Steel is If its forged well and the Heat treat and Tempering
No Matter how Sharp you can Grind your Blade if its dull after half a Cut you will never take a good Cut what you need is a good Quality Tool and a good Setup
I love how the plane "sings"... excellent work and video.
Thank you!
Awesome video!! I’ve been looking for proper instructions regarding the Japanese kanna plane.
Very well done.
Thanks! Glad you find it useful! Good luck making shavings now :)
just buy paper😔😔
Very good instructional. Just the other week i thought of bying an identical model to start with :-) Now i am convinced that it s a good idea.
Thanks! Hope you will enjoy it, otherwise don't break my balls :)
Great video. Really makes the setup of one of these hand planes understandable
What a great video! In Japan they have contests for the thinnest shaving...anything under 12 microns goes on to the finals...jajaja. Guess I have any excuse now to purchase one of those fancy hammers. Again, Thank you for taking the time to publish this video!!!
Ho AP, wee question, I've always tried to maintain a completely flat sole to my planes but (at just over 6 minutes into the video) I see you use a cabinet scraper to hollow the sole of this plane, why is this?
That s how they di it on jp planes. You neee just 2-3 contact point, abt 1cm wide, in front of the plane, in front of the blade, and optional, for trueing, on the back
@@AdrianPreda ahh, I've no japanese planes, just european ones, I suppose that reduces surface friction. Thanks.
Thanks for your informative and clear video. For a suggestion, I would say if you explain what you are doing instead of writing it, we would not miss what you are showing. thanks again!
Guy
Love the pencil trick! That’s awesome!
Thanks Sonny! Yes is good, but normally you do that thing with Camelia Oil. I would have use it too, but is barely visible on the camera. Pencil works well too but becomes messy in the end :)
Great Job I have restored and set up many metal and even vintage wooden planes but no Japanese I may have to try one some day.
Thanks Joe! Hope you will find it useful. It's a nice plane to have in addition to western ones. I've found it easier to use it in some situations than the western ones. But I don't find myself ever substituting to full japanese ones
Hello Adrian, i just saw your set up japanes plane and sharpening blade with shapton water stone ceramic models and atoma 400 grit diamond stone, my question is are you happy with this combination shapton stone and atoma diamond lapping for whaterstone? I wathed lotha review about stone litle bit confused, i was thinking shapton glassstone hr and with atamo lapping but 120 or 400 grit one. I am so curious about your experience with sharpening tools its really razor sharpining? Thanks.
I really like these I have now. The 1000 one is my favorite, works very quick. I never tried the glass one. The 8k is enough for me to produce a workable finish.
As much as I enjoy sharpening, I think I just found a new hobby. Thanks.
Hello! Please could you tell me why you are using a chisel beside the plane's mouth at 6:06 ? Thanks!
That space there is useless and needs to be hollowed. You can scrape that too, but I prefer to chisel out more material to be sure even in time when I flatten the sole, that will be still hollowed.
7:38 good fire starting material
The video @5:42 May I ask what is the of scrapping to create hollows? Sorry I’m new to this
Is just a steel plate, it is a common cabinet scraper
Using the blade itself to scrape the recesses in the bottom realllllly sped up the process for me 👍🏻.
Yes, I've seen this on others, I will try to next time! Thanks!
Adrian Preda sure. They have scraper planes but they’re like $150+ and take time to setup themselves. From what I’ve seen there extremely effective tools but for some initial Kanna setup, a sharp blade works remarkably well. You just need an adequate way to clamp the body down while scraping.
I see, this kind of scraper planes, tachi kanna, at the shop where I bought the big one, is 95 euro/~120usd the 30mm wide version. Ridiculously two times the price my plane :) They worth buying when you have too a more better or more kanna's.
Hey Adrian!
Nice Vid. I have the exact same plane from finetools.com, also my first... have been using it for a year now and feel I'm slowly getting the hang of it. Thinking of maybe getting a higher class 60-70mm kanna. Here bit.ly/2GM9kSE you can find a scraper plane for a little bit less. They're also good for finishing really hard woods not just the sole of a normal kanna... your mini workbench vid also inspired me to build one, thx for that!
Only thing I noticed was I thought your secondary bevel on the chipbreaker ws quite wide, could have been the video though...
Thanks I will follow your example when my first Japanese hand plane arrives in a few days.
Do you have a video on that shirt workbench your using when planing?
Wow ...., you can make your own paper.. thanks for showing this great tool
You hve just convinced me to purchase. I have been thinking of buying for a while.
I have a question: when flatering the bottom of the plane you did it with the blade already in place. It seems that you sanded the blade with the bottom together (at 5:18" ) and spoiled the previous work of sharpening the blade. Is that correct or I didn´t understand what is going on?
At 4:54 I wrote that the blade is 1.5 mm away back. This way, they body will remain tensioned, as in normal working condition. The blade in place there can micro-twist/bend the body, that is why when I flatten I put the blade in, but also as minimum as I can, not to sand the bevel.
Perfect. I didnt realize that. Make sense. Nice work. thanks
Excellent Tutorial. Great end result
I was always taught to use the whole whetstone when sharpening a blade to make sure it stays level and even. using small parts of it makes it less planar
great video! no i can order japanese plane without fear! loved the lovely shavings..them selves can be the final target lol!
Adrian, why did you create hollow parts in the flat sole? What should be achieved by this operation?
I'd also like to know - the only positive I can think of is reducing friction. The smaller contact points would wear quicker though.
Indeed, for less contact area, so less friction to counter balance by pressing on it
first of all, awesome info
second and probably more importantly AWESOME background music that didnt totally suck :)
Love the plane! Keep up the excellent videos!
Thank you very much! Glad you enjoy my videos!
Fascinating work, but why the hollows on the sole, please explain!... Cheers
very nice and clear video! I do love japanese planes! Thanks
Thank you Franco! I'm glad to hear that! I've tried to make it as short as possible and enough info in understanding the process.
in my opinion it is perfect!
nice choice of music! and thanks for the instructions!
Great build! What kind of squeeze clamps you using?
You have taught me few valuable points. thank you
You had 999 likes on this video when I pressed thumbs up. I first asked my brother if he could press tumb up but he didn't have a UA-cam account. Then I asked my other brother to press. I quests you now have 1000 thumbs up. Congratulations 👍
Thanks guys :) I really appreciate it! Thanks for enjoying the video!
This is the kind of tool that will recall memories of your dead master while using it
I have just bought the same plane from Fine Tools, mine has arrived with the blade about 3mm wider than the throat? i.e when the blade is fully seated, the left and right tip of the blade are seated on wood, and seem to clog. Should I be correcting this by filing away some of the wood itself?
So when you buy these the blade has to be sharpened and it doesn't even fit in the block right? Is there a place I can buy one that is already ready to go?
I am still a student of this process, if you have any other tips regarding kanna tuning I appreciate sharing it here.
This channel will help you. ua-cam.com/video/rNqV4Ht64vg/v-deo.html
And this is a actual dai making by a professional. ua-cam.com/video/9kBbe89YgyU/v-deo.html
+jishaku38 Thanks for sharing those! Really good stuff!
Put a link for the Japanese Plane you bought and make some money to further your channel.
Mine is from a german shop, they don't have affiliate links, I just wrote the shop name in description. I've identified some similar ones on the Us amazon, and put the links there. The 65 mm blade one I will get it also soon :)
Got a new kanna. Ran blades over a wet stone and when I put them back in the blade and chip break it slipped all the way through or the blade would extend out about a half inch. Is that right? First kanna and I am not sure. If it is wrong how can I correct the problem?
I wrote someone here lately, you can look for the comment, it can happen this, just add to the blade's bed on the body some paper or veneer to "add" new material back
Expected aircraft
Didn't get disappointed
Is that a slab of Intsia you're working on? I'm looking for planes that can handle Instia and similar hardwoods. It's very hard on chisels and planes.
Outstanding. Thank you!
Thank you for your excellent video on setting up a Japanese plane it is something on my wish list.
Thanks for the video it is perfect. What spray do you use for the stones?
Thanks! The content is just H2O :)
I think I have a very similar plane. Tell me, have you had success with this planing hardwoods like maple, oak, walnut, sapele, etc? I get the same results as you on pine, cedar and balsa but it seems like it is temperamental with hardwoods. Is it the angle of the blade/angle it sits in the body or am I doing something wrong? Also have you had any success using it for edge grains?
There are also kannas for hardwoods, they have a bigger bed/blade angle, about 50 deg or more, vs this one that I believe is 40 deg if not mistaken. I did some planing too with this one on hardwood, mainly ash, walnut, maple, but with very thin shavings and the chipbreaker set very very close to the blade, about 0.1-0.2mm away as those woods presents a lot of weird grain directions. Also, either way you will not get those nice paper like shaving with hardwoods because of the porous structure of those woods, vs the conifer woods. Hardwood jp planes with higher angle blade you will usually find more expensive, I doubt there are available in the 50-70$ range as those general ones. Sometimes I do use it on the shooting board on end grain, but mainly when my western plane's blade is dull :) works great also
I think I have one just like yours. I am having a hard time getting it sharp enough for the papercuts. Did yours have a secondary bevel when you got it? Mine did. How can I get a consistent angle for the secondary bevel across stones (BTW, my stones are only of 400, 1000 and 3000 grit - not up to your 5k)?
No, it didn't had a secondary bevel, that's weird. Normally japanese blades should not have it because will put more force/shock on the hard steel, the brittle one, so will not have a way for the shock to discard towards the soft steel. You can get an acceptable working sharpness with 3k too. For consistent bevel by hand is hard at the beginning, needs more try. I barely began to be able to do it, and still not top. When the bevel becomes too round I put the blade on the veritas honing guide, its not the best solution, because of the jp blade shape, but with more care setting it up does the job.
Is it all the grinding stone need to put on some water when grinding?
Most yes, but this one just needs some spray, otherwise it will break or loose sharpening prop. It is Shapton brand
Good job Youngman!
Wow , that plane went up 200$ ....
Amazing to watch you do that so easy .
You have a "Stone Angelim" wood, a Amazon prohibited wood... So, how you explain it?
It is Iroko. Now you can sleep well
@@AdrianPreda it looks like Stone Angelim, nice! But being a Japanese wood, its merchant is very regulamented, don't?
That Stone Angelim I see it has a more prominent texture.
But beside that it is was more harder, 14000N on Janka scale vs let's say oak 4500N, and it is even denser than water. I would have noticed those when working with it :)
Iroko is african.
@@AdrianPreda kkkkk
all African woods are smuggled, counterfeited or stolrn, even Ebony
Why did you sand the sole of the plane with the iron still inserted? Doesn’t that put it at risk of being damaged by the aggressive sand paper?
Check what I wrote at 4:53
another great video !! Thank you Adrian . I have a weird question I 'd like to put in if I may ... I have been interested for some time in building one of these ' kanas" (hope thats right ) but have been unable to find a place where I can buy Japanese style thick plane Irons. Any tips ????
Hi Matt, thanks! Search the name of the shop I wrote in the description, I remember I saw they sell a kit for jp plane making. Otherwise check on Instagram, there are a lot of guys making japanese planes, and you may get some info from their builds. I'm really not aware of any other sources for plane making, maybe to buy direct from japan
ebay!
is that just water you are spraying on those stones?? good tutorial on tweeking a new plane.
Yes, water. Actually only water you can use to water stones, oils and greasy stuff will make them unusable, or other chemical liquids. These are Shapton waterstones, they don't need to be soaked for several minutes into water before using them, they are splash & go, so only spraying is enough. Just the rough stones up to 1000 usually I keep them couple of seconds in water cause before using cause they are soaking more than a spray can deliver
Just asking did you hone the whole blade on the back or just the front part because it looked like you just did the front of it and thank you for the video very informative ✌🏽
Just the front, like 10mm - 1/2", but as you see I go a bit inside too, with gentle passes, not to make the hone like a "rebate", don't find the exact word🙂
Thanks for this video! Can you tell me why exactly the sole has to be scraped between edges and blade? Thank you in advance if you can answer me.
I messed up my blade. What is the angle of the bevel? Just one bevel. Right?
I wanted to try and make a planing board similar to yours. I don't have Iroko wood near me though. Any other good alternatives?
It just happened for me to have an already 45deg iroko board cut, but you can use any other easy to find hardwood like oak, beech, ash etc
I ordered the 65mm yesterday and just saw this video today. Does that mean I have to go through this process before I'm able to use it?
Yes. It comes with the blade "almost" sharpened, also the body is relatively flat to make some shavings but will work very badly. The worst part is that the blade bed is very tight when new, you will force it to go, and it may brake the wood. To use the plane at its best you need to tune it
I own a small wood block plane that works great. Bought one like your video and cant get the blade to engage the wood on the pull stroke?
Really weird as the blade is below the level of the block and sharp enuf to shave with. What the heck am I doing wrong?
Great video!! and I've just bought Japanese plane 42mm and 50mm thanks..
Thank you for watching!
I followed a similar approach to your process here on my own small kanna.
I ran into two issues:
At the time the back/underside of the blade reached better contact with the wood, it would also protrude from the mouth using only light hand pressure. This is pretty bad and a little disappointing.
At this point, I also can't fit the chip breaker because of two factors; either the chip breaker angle is too high, or because the pin is crooked/bent, it exerts pressure on the right- and leftmost sides. I'm not sure whether to scrape material off the pin or make the 'legs' shorter on the chip breaker, or both.
It can happen even with a new plane, either in time, due to wood movement that the blade will protude more, so in this case you need to add/glue like a shim on that blade rest on the body. In order by thickness I suggest: cigarettes paper roll, normal office paper or even veneer. I did this to some of my planes too.
Regarding the pin, try to fix first the blade bed, then check the new situation. If the pin is tight there you can try to file it
Thanks, very thorough video. I just bought a relatively cheap one and will have to tune it.